Jurassic Park
Data East, 1993I’m having T. rex side to side issues too but I’m waiting to fix my getaway flippers before I start disassembling another one of my pins. I can hear the motor or gears grinding but there’s no movement. Up and down works fine though.
Quoted from winteriscoming:Certainly take a ton of pics. If you're able to document the definitive steps, I'm sure the community would appreciate it.
Here are some details provided for me by flynnibus. I'll try to remember and take pics for posterity.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-t-rex-side-to-side-motor-issues#post-4914950
Quoted from Geteos:I’m having T. rex side to side issues too but I’m waiting to fix my getaway flippers before I start disassembling another one of my pins. I can hear the motor or gears grinding but there’s no movement. Up and down works fine though.
Looks like I'm one Super Mario Bros. behind your collection. Funny thing is, I had the chance to get one really cheap about a year or so ago, but somebody beat me to it.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Looks like I'm one Super Mario Bros. behind your collection. Funny thing is, I had the chance to get one really cheap about a year or so ago, but somebody beat me to it.
Haha, yea I thought the same thing when I saw your collection.
Funny how we're also both doing 3D printing stuff too.
We're like pin twins here 
Quoted from Chalkey:After doing a little more reading have you tried reflowing solder on the relay board under the PF and fuse board above the shaker?
I did not reflow, but I did remove both and inspected them closely with both feel and magnification. Both boards and all solder points appear to be in perfect condition. What is odd now is that I can get side-to-side movement after loosing up things by hand (worked dino side to side multiple times with motor removed). However, during t-rex test it tries to do its bows down to the trough when it is off to the side and not centered. Then at the end of the test it turns all the way to one side and the motor never shuts off.
I gave up and put everything back together so I could play over the weekend, but I've not given up yet. Need to fix my new flipper issue now, and then I'll re-explore T-Rex. Everything on my pin looks and works great, so just my OCD nature to get this working too. I also noticed a stray wire under the playfield from an earlier owners repair, so I'm sure I'll be showing that to the group soon and seeking advice. It runs all the way from the backbox to one of the ball trough ball sensors. My guess is that a wire broke or something so instead of figuring it out and repairing it, the operator just bypassed the problem with a new wire.
Quoted from edward472:Had time this morning to poke around some more. I was converting my game over to LED last night. This was the last socket I did before I had this line of GI go out. It's the bulb between the shooter lane and the T-Rex head on the play field. After reading some last night, it seem that if there is a problem at the beginning of the gi they are daisy chained and none below the issue will light. Can anyone confirm if this is the first socket on the yellow wire GI? If this socket is the problem , can i unsolder the socket and leave the wire twisted together and should the rest of the strand work?
[quoted image]
Afternoon bump. I'm about to get off work and getting some time to work on this. Wife is having friends over this weekend and wants it working.
Quoted from edward472:Afternoon bump. I'm about to get off work and getting some time to work on this. Wife is having friends over this weekend and wants it working.
edward472 That's what I did for a faulty GI socket that would occasionally spark when bumped. I unsoldered the socket, and re-connected the string of lights by twisting the wire and captivating it using a couple of wire nuts. Just make sure any exposed wire is insulated, and you'll be fine.
Quoted from Pinash:edward472 That's what I did for a faulty GI socket that would occasionally spark when bumped. I unsoldered the socket, and re-connected the string of lights by twisting the wire and captivating it using a couple of wire nuts. Just make sure any exposed wire is insulated, and you'll be fine.
After blowing a few fuses, the last socket I worked on seems to be bad. I'm going to leave it disconnected until my next pinball purchase. Anyone know the cheapest place for a replacement 44 socket with bracket?
Couple of follow-up items:
1) I found my lockbar spring. It was actually still screwed to the inside corner of the cabinet but the end that attached to the lockbar handle had broken off. Did my magic with some plyers to form a new loop at the end, and we're back in the spring business.
2) My flipper issue ended up being either a dirty contact or the leaf switch not making contact at all. I put pin in service mode and when pressing the flipper button I could hear the coil fire and it even moved a little. Started playing with the leaf switch that is next to the coil (not the button one), and seemed like it was the issue. Cleaned the contacts and did some minor bending, and everything began to work. I've played a couple of games with no issues. While I was at it, I adjusted the tolerance for the double phased right button leaf switch (both of my flippers were engaging pretty much simultaneously). Now a minor to about a 3/4 press of the button fires the lower right flipper and a press of over 3/4 of the button fires the top right flipper. Cool thing is that I can now backhand both the East Dock and the Power Shed from the right lower flipper w/o the upper flipper getting in the way. Not sure if this is how it is supposed to be setup or not, but I like it!
Quoted from edward472:Mind posting a pic when you get a chance so I can compare to my setup?
The glare on grant is only because of the high angle I took the photo from..
Finally got around to putting service rails on!
What a game changer, if you were on the fence DO IT! There's a little bit of careful drilling but it's not that hard. Used a 5/8" spade bit for the T nuts. Pilot drilling the lower holes is where you have to be really careful.
So much better than those dumb posts.
So much better.
20190401_203423 (resized).jpg20190401_203437 (resized).jpg20190401_203542 (resized).jpg20190401_204640 (resized).jpg+1 service rails.
Should be the first "mod" people do 
Makes it so much easier & safer to get the pf back in. No more sideways holding the playfield and lifting it over the bump. Just pull down on the service rails
Quoted from J-Freeze:Finally got around to putting service rails on!
What a game changer, if you were on the fence DO IT! There's a little bit of careful drilling but it's not that hard. Used a 5/8" spade bit for the T nuts. Pilot drilling the lower holes is where you have to be really careful.
So much better than those dumb posts.
So much better.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
After having this pin and lifting the playfield several times, I will never curse my Williams Getaway design again.
Quoted from J-Freeze:The glare on grant is only because of the high angle I took the photo from..
[quoted image]
Thanks. Yeah,that glare looks a lot better.
Quoted from vec-tor:I put a little grease on the metal rials to make the playfield slide easier on the rails.
After i did the same, i have never had any trouble sliding the playfield in/out. Before i greased it, I had to do the sideways grab and lift.
Quoted from vec-tor:Both Pteranodon are mounted with a piano wire.
There is a "L" bend at both ends in opposite directions?
with round loops at the ends that take the mounting truss head screws on one side.
The other open loop side is mounted on the left side of the playfield.
So as to fit the model's in between the two wire forms (habit trails).
One is mounted under the Truss screw and above the plastic.
The other might be mounted under the keeps nut to the entrance gate
or other Truss head screw and plastics.
The wire forms break from air balls hitting the models.
The Pteranodon models sometimes block the ball paths on the
wire form ( habit trails). Operators would remove the models and throw them away.
Pictures would be worth a thousand words here. Can someone please post some close up pics of how the Pteranodons are mounted?
Quoted from J-Freeze:[quoted image][quoted image]
I am striking out on finding these "service rails" on marco or pinballlife. Can you share a part number?
Quoted from ypurchn:I am striking out on finding these "service rails" on marco or pinballlife. Can you share a part number?
of course I search for 10 minutes the second I make this post, tada...
preference to Sam https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-playfield-support-slide-bracket-kit-for-sam-machines.html
or Spike? https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-pinball-support-slide-bracket-kit-for-spike-spike-2-machines.html
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Say hello to my new friend . . . Lambchop. My T-Rex is really wishing I would fix his side-to-side movement now!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Where can I get one of the goats? I forgot about that guy lol
Quoted from Meloyelo51:Where can I get one of the goats? I forgot about that guy lol
Here is the one I purchased then I painted the various areas black (hooves, mouth, nose, around eye, and then all of the spots) | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GULG6Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00
For the chains, I purchase these and ended up using the 4" black one (took clasp off one end and then used the larger circle link left to secure to one of the plastic screw & nut combos | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G6ZQ4RF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01
I then secured the goat to the plastic with Scotch/3M clear mounting tape on the bottoms of each of the feet.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Pictures would be worth a thousand words here. Can someone please post some close up pics of how the Pteranodons are mounted?
Here’s what they look like on my machine.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from Geteos:[quoted image]
Your 2nd image, not sure why it’s not showing up....
You put a rubber on that adjustment post? Do most people?
Strange, it's uploaded through the forum's attach images so it should work.
I believe that rubber was there when I replaced everything with Titan's. The only extra rubber ring I added was on the outlane of the right side, it was a bare post and since the ball was prone to hitting it I figured a piece of rubber was a good idea to prevent metal-metal contact.
Quoted from Chalkey:It sounds like your T-rex position switches aren't working correctly Mr. Tantrum.
That is what I thought, but all of the switches are registering correctly in test mode. What really confuses me is that the motor is on non-stop from the time power is applied to the pin until it is turned off. For now, I have the power to the motor disconnected until I have time to take another stab at it.
Quoted from chrisnack:Your 2nd image, not sure why it’s not showing up....
You put a rubber on that adjustment post? Do most people?
I see both pics just fine, and thanks for posting.
Sometimes when I put the ball in front of the rex, he eats it then his head comes back down and stays there for the remainder of the game. As soon as I press start for a new game, he lifts his head back up and is fine again. Any ideas?
Quoted from weasel671:Sometimes when I put the ball in front of the rex, he eats it then his head comes back down and stays there for the remainder of the game. As soon as I press start for a new game, he lifts his head back up and is fine again. Any ideas?
Does the trex work in the diagnostic test?
I just converted my machine over to LED. When I tried to find exact bulb counts, there was a lot a differences between posts. The manual is ridiculously wrong. So, I thought I would document the conversion to help people in the future know how many bulbs they need and where they go. The playfield scan in from vpinball. The other machine pics are random ones I found on the internet. If it's your game, thanks for letting me you use pics of it. Just wanted to give credit where credit was do.
Note: I didn't buy as many #44/47 bulbs as I listed here. The backbox doesn't need ever socket populated, but I wanted to give an accurate count of every bulb/socket.
Red dots: #555 bulbs
Playfield: 33
Front of the machine (Smart missile button, Start button, 2 coin doors): 4
Total: 37
Lime Green dots : #44/47 bulbs
Playfield: 66
Backbox Inside: 26
Backbox Top: 3
Total: 95
Aqua Blue dots: #455 bulbs
Backbox: 7
Total: 7
Purple Dots: #89 Bulbs
Playfield: 21
Backbox Top: 2
Total: 23
Yellow Dots: #906 Bulbs
Playfield: 6
Total: 6
Total bulbs: 168
JurassicParkBackBox (resized).pngJurassicParkFront (resized).png
JurassicParkTopper (resized).pngJurassicParkPlayfield-off_small (resized).pngNice job, but did you miss a dot over the ramp's jackpot flasher?
Next step would be to add the recommended colours for some of the lights, especially the inserts.
ie. the scoops lights need 3 x Green #555 for the uppers and 2 x Yellow #555 and 1 x Blue #555 for the lowers.
The virtual pin playfield is really handy for this, I wonder if it would be better to overlay text on it? Or label it with numbers and then reference a list?
Something like this? I can work on this, if it'll help out others too. Just need to know what format people think is best.
Jurassic Park LED locations_test (resized).png
Quoted from edward472:Does the trex work in the diagnostic test?
Yes, he works fine in diagnostic test.
Just installed my new pteranodons. First of all winteriscoming recommended the Papo one, and he is right that Papo produces the most detailed models. However, I wanted something a little smaller and a little cheaper since I wanted two of them, so I chose the Safari Ltd. ones which are the same as the pair listed as “Data East Jurassic Park” on Amazon and eBay for $15. They ended up being nice enough for me, and while not close to Papo they are a significant improvement over the pictures I have see if the stock ones. I looked at memory wire which was also suggested but wasn’t sure what to get so I ended up with 0.032” piano wire which worked great. Basically wrapped the wire around the legs of the figure then shaped appropriately to where I wanted to anchor.
Sorry, had already put the glass back on when I remembered to take pics.
A3E8994E-E1AD-4540-BD84-B52C4E338D60.jpegE75D6E7E-55B5-4031-9B43-015B6A647EFD.jpegFD3CEA3C-6057-45F4-ACDF-9FE4231AF6B1.jpeg
Quoted from Geteos:Next step would be to add the recommended colours for some of the lights, especially the inserts.
ie. the scoops lights need 3 x Green #555 for the uppers and 2 x Yellow #555 and 1 x Blue #555 for the lowers.
The virtual pin playfield is really handy for this, I wonder if it would be better to overlay text on it? Or label it with numbers and then reference a list?
Something like this? I can work on this, if it'll help out others too. Just need to know what format people think is best.
[quoted image]
Yep I update it. Anyone can do whatever they want with the pics. Figured it was way better than the manual. I didn't bother color matching except for the Trex lights in the apron, scoop lights, shoot trex light, and the gate lights.
Quoted from edward472:Yep I update it. Anyone can do whatever they want with the pics. Figured it was way better than the manual. I didn't bother color matching except for the Trex lights in the apron, scoop lights, shoot trex light, and the gate lights.
Totally, the manual is terrible when it comes to lights and rubber information.
I'm actually surprised at how hard it is to find really good, clear information on LED and rubber locations for each machine. When I did my JP I counted them all myself but didn't account for the 555s that are used for some of the inserts, I had thought they were all 44s... Noobie mistake.
Quoted from Geteos:Totally, the manual is terrible when it comes to lights and rubber information.
I'm actually surprised at how hard it is to find really good, clear information on LED and rubber locations for each machine. When I did my JP I counted them all myself but didn't account for the 555s that are used for some of the inserts, I had thought they were all 44s... Noobie mistake.
Yeah it definitely took awhile. I broke a lmap socket, but i got to clean places that I don't think were ever cleaned on my machine. I was tempted to flame polish my ramp while it was out, but I talked myself out of that. "Leave well enough alone, Ben"
Mr_Tantrum those green flipper rubbers look great. Titan?
Quoted from Chitownpinball:mr_tantrum those green flipper rubbers look great. Titan?
Yes, if I recall, they are the thin versions.
Quoted from weasel671:Yes, he works fine in diagnostic test.
It’s one of the up down switches on trex not registering. I had to bend the wire up just a little so it was making solid contact and activating the switch properly. Basically, the machine never sees the switch activate so it just leaves it down.
Mine would sometimes show in test mode but almost never worked in the game - I attributed this to the shaker causing extra vibrations.
I believe it was the top switch in the assembly that needed adjustment. So this would make it the “trex down position switch” - I think.
Hey guys: I need to replace c2 on the power board as the display and sound are taking a bit longer to come on AND I can see a bit of leakage.
Looks like a 100uf 25vdc cap.
Once I remove old one, is there a good way to clean any corrosion off before replacing?
Quoted from ypurchn:It’s one of the up down switches on trex not registering. I had to bend the wire up just a little so it was making solid contact and activating the switch properly. Basically, the machine never sees the switch activate so it just leaves it down.
Mine would sometimes show in test mode but almost never worked in the game - I attributed this to the shaker causing extra vibrations.
I believe it was the top switch in the assembly that needed adjustment. So this would make it the “trex down position switch” - I think.
When I got my JP, the plastic on the lower jaw was missing. I've since got a replacement and it seems to work fine now. Like you said...prolly a switch adjustment, but maybe the plastic cover made up the difference and I'm good again. Thank you!
Quoted from Blackbeard:Hey guys: I need to replace c2 on the power board as the display and sound are taking a bit longer to come on AND I can see a bit of leakage.
Looks like a 100uf 25vdc cap.
Once I remove old one, is there a good way to clean any corrosion off before replacing?
You can use isopropyl alcohol. You should consider recapping the rest of the board. The other capacitors will go and might take the board with it like mine did
Super impressed
My board arrived today, it even came in its own custom 3d printed travel case for safe shipping. Wow, what service.
A big thank you all, the way from Australia 
Quoted from Davi:**** Ball Trough Opto Board Update ****
Opto boards without harness are on they way!
Boards with harness: planned to send next week.
Thank you guys for your support and for nice feedback.
Sidenote:
I've got no feedback from these guys to my shipping/payment PM:
nocreditdot
jp1993
groucho
I have purchased all the parts, and assembled the boards based on your commitment. I guess we are all adults and able to communicate and make decisions.
baord 2 (resized).JPGbaord 1 (resized).JPGQuoted from Whitewater:Super impressed
My board arrived today, it even came in its own custom 3d printed travel case for safe shipping. Wow, what service.
A big thank you all, the way from Australia
[quoted image][quoted image]
I am glad you like it. 
Thanks for feedback.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/112 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Fort Worth, TX
Manly
Budapest
London, ON