Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

And it looks hella good if you toss it in a tumbler for a little bit, gives it a greyish speckled egg look...mine looks awesome.

Double post.

Anyone know of a European distributor for these?

Sounds awesome. Post a pic!

Nice idea, may have to do that with mine

Anybody have a used powerball laying around that they don't want?

If you can't find actual powerballs, I bought a 4 pack of the white Glo Balls when they were on sale last year and they work well. I've got one as the egg in JP, one in Gofers as a 'golf ball,' one in Frankenstein, and one in LAH as an 'eyeball.' The JP egg one gets decently dirty because of the subways, but I leave it for character, and the other 3 are super fast and interesting when mixed with regular balls in a multiball. Gofers is almost dangerous with it since it flies further up the ramp and hits back of the cabinet/glass most of the time. WHACK! lol

Big thanks to John @ The Pinball Place for burning me a set of roms and getting them out to me lightning fast. Huge thanks to Chad and those involved in creating an update that evidently most believed would never come to fruition. I must say I completely lucked out because I picked up a JP last week and had no idea an update was even in the works. Quite honestly I had never even played this machine before but scored it for my two little boys who are huge fans of the movie and dinos in general. A week later I've shopped my machine, fixed some broken aspects, installed LEDs, and now am one of the first JP owners to be running 6.00! Thanks guys!

Check the original game flyer...

They weren't shipped that way, but it's clearly there...

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Here's a photo of my wire ramp with the post bumpers for those who wanted to see it. But I lied. The rounded part is facing up. But in the few months I've had it like this, they haven't budged.

Anyone have this kind of issue with their Cliffys? If you look closely, you can see it's starting to tear/break apart. This looks like it's due to the target's lateral movement which has caught an edge, and not a manufacturing defect. Emailed Cliff about the problem to see about getting a replacement.

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I had the exact kind of split develop on mine. It looks like you haven't filled the bevelled edge to make it a right angle. The Cliffy protector is thin and doesn't have the enough strength to stand up to repeated bashing on the tightly-formed edges (particularly on this short-range scoop on JP that has very strong flippers) when there is a bevelled counterspace underneath. The only way to stop this from happening is to fill the counterspace with epoxy putty or something. If your scoop is in good shape and you're truly protecting it rather than covering up wear and you'd rather not alter your game in this way you may be able to fill the space with something like thin dowel/skewers or if possible to source some angled material that fits snugly in there.

I hope that makes sense?

Makes sense. Was my thought as well. Figured double forces working against it. The target is obviously caught on it, and pushes towards the cliffy when hit, and obviously the wear already with the hole. And after I installed the cliffys, I wondered if it would dent causing the metal to bubble up and not lay flat against the playfield. Didn't think it would actually break it.

I use a lot of Cliffy protectors, both on my games at home and on location. (I use Mantis protectors too, sometimes both Cliffy and Mantis together.) Cliff's protectors are great and I'll continue to use them, but in this case the best solution is a Mantis protector for the Control Room. My JP is on location and has been on location for about 1.5 years in the time that I've owned it. It has thousands of games on it during that time. It has Cliffy protectors on the Bunker and Power Shed, Mantis on the Control Room. They've held up great in this combination with no damage to the game or the protectors (both Cliffy and Mantis).

Got my new ver 6 roms today in the mail (thanks johnwartjr!) and installed and played my first game. What a dramatic improvement, thanks ChadH!

Just got mine today too. Although I thought I got jipped because my first mode was stampede. but did randomize the other games.

Played a few games but haven't noticed a whole lot of difference. My games weren't that great anyways. Did notice tri-ball is harder to get. I like the shoot again letting you know the ball will be saved. The random rapter skill shot doesnt seem too random. About 70% of the time it seemed like it was the non-pausing rapter. And other than that, I'll have to spend more time with it to notice more.

But it's pretty cool that we have new code for a 20 year old game.

Shame I had to wipe my 1.2 billion score. at least I have a photo of it.

Yeah, for me the ball save and the random mode were the big differences. Also love no longer getting automatic crack at T-Rex tri ball on third ball.

So I should FINALLY be apart of the club this weekend. Question - what is the ideal rubber color for JP? Black, white, etc?

I just installed the new 6.00 ROMS for JP. Very nice work Chad H.

I like being able to skip T-REX diagnostics at startup and also not always having to start with the STAMPEDE mode. I have only played about 6 games since installing the new ROMS so I will get in some more games and then report back.

Gord

Installed the new code yesterday. Didn't get too many games on it but I am loving the ball saver indicator and the chaos callout whenever you hit a letter in CHAOS. Also it was really nice not to start with Stampede and to have the modes seem to be worth playing instead of just going for tri-ball. Great work here Chad!

Can someone confirm that its only the left flipper on JP that should have a EOS switch connected, and, having the playfield standing up resting on the backbox;

The (inner) leaf closest to the coil should be the BLU-VIO,
and the outer leaf should have the BRN-VIO connected?

The lower right should have an EOS as well.

okay, I have rebuilt flippers for earlier this year so it has new eos leafs, but I cannot find the wires that should be there on the right one

For the left flipper, the eos wires were cut and taped together, I was thinking of soldering them back on just need to confirm the correct leafs to solder them to.

But strange thing, now when I tried to starte the game the right lower flipper is totally dead. Only the upper right responds. wierd.

The only thing i have "messed with a little" is the flipper leafs, but it is normally closed and when pressing the flipper button it is open. that should be correct?

Do you have plans to do any other Data East games? If so Hook would be my official vote. That game is pretty broken... left ramp is basically the only shot worth going for in the whole game. Pirate's extra ball is so easy it's stupid. Skull award shots are backwards from what you would expect. Callouts are kind of annoying (random voice plays every time you hit an inlane switch for example and service menu is really irritating). Don't really know of any bugs though but those are just a few areas that could use improvement.

Big, big thanks to ChadH for JP Code 6.00 (and TFTC code 4.00)

Will make my thanks known in a more material fashion as well, but:

IMG_6054.JPG

RussMyers

Its getting weirder:

The Blue/Violet and brown-violet eos wires were taped together with electrical tape, AND soldered together. dunno if that has any significance. But I taped them together again.

When pressing in the right flipper button, the flipper coil tries to pull but gets too little power. If I "help" it by pushing in the plunger, it goes in and is holding the flipper up.
Both coils measure 32.4 ohms. (or 0,3 i assume)

Is this pointing to a specific issue?

Alright, found the issue:

The two EOS wires had to be soldered together to make it closed. So soldered them together and the right flipper works.
Will just leave it at that for now.

Wow!!!

Need to get my hands in a Hook. Know anyone near me with one who is willing to lend?

<EDIT: It's been pointed out that this information is incorrect for this style of game, see other guys below for better info!>

Yeah, this is bad. Previous owner didn't know what they were doing. With it how it is, DO NOT CRADLE THE BALL. If you hold the flipper too long, you'll blow a fuse.

What's happening now is that the EOS is being bypassed (obviously). The EOS switch tells the game to put the coil in to low power hold mode. As it is, you're pouring full power into the flipper all the time, and that's bad.

Desolder those wires and put your EOS back in line. Violet wire on the lug nearer the coil, brown on the further one.

Alright, thanks
Although to be noted; have played this game since january in its current state and has never broken a fuse. but will fix it while Im on it

No sign of the wires for the right flipper eos though

What did you tape together to make it work?

It's perfectly fine to play, as long as you don't hold the flippers up.

I soldered the EOS wires together again, as they have been before.
Yeah thats the thing, in our club people are cradlers, so I dunno.... but, I will solder them on, in any case

Might want to put up a WTB ad and see if anyone local is willing to lend for the time being. Who knows, if you end up doing something great with it they may change their mind about selling.

True and false. DE flippers from this period are solid state electronic. They automatically switch to low power whether or not an EOS switch is present (same as Williams Fliptronics.) The only thing the EOS does is allow the flipper board to REAPPLY high power if a flipper gets hit down. Soldering the EOS switches together will not hurt anything. Your advice is correct for older games without solid state flipper control, you don't want to bypass the EOS in any circumstance with those games.

The wires were probably soldered together because early DE flipper boards had an annoying design defect where the flippers would not work if the EOS was not making good contact. It causes problems because a flaky or broken EOS would make the flippers not work at all. DE released a service bulletin (#54) to show how to modify the existing flipper board. Or you can use a later flipper board as long as it supports at least 3 flippers.

http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb54.pdf

Thank you for that lesson!

I need to buy LEDs for my Jurassic. Want to replace all lights. I see a lot of people use blueish white which appear to be a comet only LED. If I don't go with a kit, does anyone have a layout or instruction of what I need to buy? I would like to have a greenish and/or white/bluish GI and then just everything else straight LED replacements. Suggestions

.

Hey delt31! You finally got her!?

My machine originally had greens and whites in the playfield but I found that it made the machine too dark so I swapped all my playfield lights for frosted whites from Comet. I also put two of his white LED strips on the back panel of the playfield to light the sign and add more light to the back. I did color coordinate the back box though. It's mostly whites back there but I do have some reds and oranges in the sky area which I think looks great.

I wish I had kept my notes. I just finished my conversion using comet pinball bulbs. I used 2835's cool white clear lens for all my GI to keep it uniform. I used 2835 frosted sunlight bulbs in the backbox, and color matched 2835 clear lens bulbs in the inserts. Came out great.

Dumb question, so please be gentle:

I'm receiving my two new ROMs today, but I have no idea where they go!

Can anyone post a picture of which ROMs they replace? Pretty sure I know where the CPU one goes, but am having a hard time predicting where the display ROM will go.

Any/all help will be appreciated!

Thanks!!

Hi, what is the new display rom? I thought the new code from Chad was just the cpu.

Just read this. What exactly do you mean? I remember replacing a ROM on my parent's TZ years ago. Do you just mean to line it up correctly with all the pins?

Below are detailed instructions for replacing both the CPU ROM and the Display ROM for Data East games. These instructions are from John Wart's web site.

http://www.thatpinballplace.com/documents/installing_eproms_de.html

I highly recommend that you familiarize yourself with both the photos and the narrative from John's instructions to ensure proper installation of your new ROMS.

Gord

Installed the roms yesterday, pretty awesome! Thanks Chad. Besides the game changes, i love the last action hero preview!

Yes! Do that before you do something dumb and look stupid like me!

The last two times I have heard the CHAOS mode callout, I have used the smart missile. After all of the balls drain, I see the dinosaur walking across the DMD that you shoot...then it says something about a victory mode and shooting the ramp. That mode has a countdown that usually gets to about 10 seconds left before it finally kicks out a ball for me to shoot with the gun/plunger. I've never had any issues with the game not recognizing that there are no balls in play, other than these two instances. Before installing the new code, I only got to Chaos mode a few times, but none ever had this odd sequence after I had drained all of the balls during Chaos mode. Any idea what's going on here?

Hmm, are your trough switches registering reliably? Are all other multi-ball modes working correctly, registering drained balls and returning them when ball saver is still on?