(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

6 years ago

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  • Latest reply 17 hours ago by woody24
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Topic index (key posts)

58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (6 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (5 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (5 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (5 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (5 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2930 3 years ago

IMG_2366 (resized).JPG

Hello club - new member here! My local arcade at the Danbury Fair Mall in Connecticut had a new JP back in '93 which I played often and became a fan, making it a must have for me since I started collecting/repairing nearly 2 years ago.

I have been reading the entire club thread here since bringing home a great example from Free Play Florida last fall, but it is taking forever read it all. I have played with the back box colors a bit, making the logo green. I probably won't keep it that way, but It's fun to play around with LEDs.

You may also notice that my JP is taller than my TAF project. The legs on JP are too long, making it 2 inches taller than standard, and it's actually fun that way. THIS PIN IS T-REX SIZED along with the big DE back box, and fortunately I still have room for the NOS topper I found recently.

My question - When a ball really sails around the ramp, the diverter must be moving a little, and a ball that should go to the right inlane, often gets launched off the ramp, and I'm worried about breaking the ramp or something else with these airballs.

Is it common to replace or upgrade the diverter coil spring or is there another fix? I have inspected the diverter and it appears to be adjusted OK.


1 week later
#2956 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I had issues with that diverter too. I strengthened up the coil spring, and still didn't fix it. What did fix it, was adjusting the diverter a little. It shouldn't be exactly flush with the right lane. Bring it up slightly. After I did that, I haven't had any issues.

I adjusted the diverter up to the point where a slow roller would just get through, but still getting fly offs. I ordered the spring shown in the manual from marco, but the one I received was not as long, so I just doubled them up. The diverter still works, but still getting fly offs.

I just noticed in the manual there is adjustment 33 coil pulse size. I changed that from normal to soft, since my flippers are very strong. (and louder then my other pins) Finally, it looks like the balls are staying on the rail. The lower flippers coils are labeled 090-5020-30 which appear to be correct.

#2960 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Here's some photos of my diverter.

Thanks for the photos. I have have my diverter set about the same.

I will stick with the soft coil setting for now which seems fine, and work on more pressing issues.

#2973 3 years ago
Quoted from JP1993:

The left lower flipper sometimes goes "weak"

Check the wires on the end of stop switch on the flipper mech. They may be coming loose.

#2986 3 years ago
Quoted from Time:

back side of this board looks pretty weird. All wavy.

In my experience, some boards just do that, and continue to function with no issues.

#2996 3 years ago

Got an NOS stock topper off Ebay. I notice is has a lip around the back edge, so when I install it, it may lean forward about 10 degrees.

What is the proper way to mount it? Let it lean forward? Put some shims or washers underneath so it is perpendicular with the top of the back box? Use extra shims so it's perfectly vertical?

IMG_2416 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#3025 3 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

That main large chip

That is a 6808 processor available at Marco or others.


#3028 3 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

Buy and install out of box.

Correct, and remember the semi circle notch shown on the left end of yours identifies how the chip is oriented, so put the replacement in with the semi circle or notch on the same end.

You can also see the smaller 14 pin chips above it have a similar notch at the end to show the orientation.

#3037 3 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

Definitely seems like a controlled dimming at points. Maybe I need to play it more, I could be wrong.

I don't recall dimming, other than turning off/on at the start of multiball and such. More likely the GI connector is failing.

3 weeks later
#3126 3 years ago
Quoted from PeteB:

I still have some alt translites available if anyone wants one, as posted in this topic:

Beautiful graphic!

2 weeks later
#3184 3 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

'm almost blinded with flashing lights when playing JP.

Yes the GI blinks on off brightly together with a flasher when it is waiting for you to plunge the ball. DE Star Wars has even worse GI on/off flashing from what I have seen.

One solution is take some bulbs out the back box to make it a bit dimmer. Another is brighten up the room ambient light to lessen the effect.

#3190 3 years ago

Vinyl Wrap thread. Legs are not too tricky, and take about $15 vinyl for 4 legs.


1 week later
#3206 3 years ago
Quoted from Time:

Are your machines the same way?

I have a metal post and rubber above the wire guide on both sides.

The lamp sockets should not be hot. Maybe the wires are shorted to each other or to the post? Maybe something is wired wrong or touching another wire giving too much voltage. Measure the voltage at the socket and check the resistance, etc.

4 weeks later
#3229 3 years ago

My JP CN3 is only missing the key pin 6. You would need to review the schematics to see if those pins are are necessary.

IMG_3904 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#3245 3 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

is it just me, or does this game have the worst reflection from the backglass and dmd, you have ever seen??

Yup, when I LED-ed my back box, it was too much. Pulled half the LEDs, and the reflection is reasonable now and the back box is fine.

#3249 3 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Make sure the ROMs are oriented correctly

Meaning the notch on the end of the chip faces the same way, not necessarily the way the label sticker faces.

2 weeks later
#3277 2 years ago
Quoted from AJB4:

Anybody think that Stern may re-run JP as a vault edition?

Not a chance. Expensive license, and there are plenty around with an average price under 3k.

#3280 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Lets also hope jjp gets jurassic world.

The film was released 2yrs ago. I can't imagine there is an unannounced pin on the way, but who knows.

Raw Thrills did very well with their 2015 $13k JP shooting game.

#3282 2 years ago

IMDB says summer of 2018. Nice.

3 weeks later
#3336 2 years ago

Addams Family doesn't have slides or rails. Playfield just hinges up, period. Terrible for access. Had lots of fun replacing the rear leg bolt plates.

So, yeah it could be worse.

1 week later
#3366 2 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

is there a fuse for just the boat dock ejector coil

I doubt it has a separate fuse. Likely the switch there is not working or maybe one of the coil power wires broke off.

You can start by looking at it, and doing a switch test and coil test in the diagnostics.

1 week later
1 week later
#3478 2 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Anyone else have an extremely violent shaker?

If you look for shaker motor adjustment on here, you will see how you adjust the angle offset/balance of the two weights to adjust a shaker.

Here is some info:

1 week later
#3533 2 years ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

Here is my video with how to upgrade the firmware

Regarding your question about CHAOS mode at 12:30 in the video - it is supposed to end when your multiball ends. Yours continues with only 1 ball left and 0 balls left.

Also it is supposed to launch all 6 balls when you start it by spelling CHAOS (or hitting the smart missile to accomplish that). Do you have 6 balls installed? Are your through switches working?

#3541 2 years ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

I haven't had to spell CHAOS to start it

When you pressed the smart missile after the first jackpot, that starts it (hits all the chaos letter for you by using it). It should then put all 6 balls in play, which is causing the glitch at the end of the mode, because it does not see 5 drain to end it. That is why JP has 6 balls and it is literally chaos.

Probably with less balls in the trough, this switch is acting up:

Quoted from Chalkey:

I had a similar problem in chaos and I believe it turned out to be the rightmost trough switch.

That switch is a funny one, myself and others have had issues with it.

#3556 2 years ago
Quoted from Darkmithrander:

During diagnostic tests, all coils fire correctly and work great. However when playing, they never trigger upon hit.

Do the switches for the slings and saucer work in switch test?

#3572 2 years ago
Quoted from hodgesm0:

It will be fine for a few games, then it will start to not fire. The flipper will move a littel when the button is pressed, but looks like it is struggling and will not actually fire.

The problem is not the flipper switch, it is the end of stop switch mounted on the flipper mech. Probably the wire is coming loose.

2 weeks later
#3635 2 years ago
Quoted from Soapman:

My lower right flipper is weak (can not "slam") the control room, it just rolls in, upper right is great.

Wires falling off the End of Stop switch on the flipper mech is the most common cause, or that switch is dirty.

#3638 2 years ago

My JP is extra tall as well!! I assumed the wrong black legs were installed at one point. Am I wrong? Mine are 30" end to end. I just tell everyone the game is T-REX sized.

The topper is about 15" tall, so I imagine it would never work in a short room. I have about 2" clearance in a normal height room.

#3646 2 years ago

It probably ships with batteries installed. Yikes.

#3663 2 years ago
Quoted from Darkmithrander:

Having a problem with a new auto-launcher I have installed. Tested the coil and diode and have a correct reading. Have tested continuity from board to wire and all seems fine. Installed with wires going to correct places (yellow/violet to side A). However, each time I turn on the game, the F8 fuse on the board shorts out. When auto-launcher is unplugged the fuse stays. I can't seem to find the reason for the short. Any ideas?

Maybe when putting the playfield down, the coil touches something. Does it blow with it up?

1 month later
#3712 2 years ago

If you scroll through the 10 pages of JP gallery for this thread, you can see lots of palm tree examples.


2 weeks later
1 week later
#3812 2 years ago
Quoted from pzy:

Took some big ol' beauty shots of my JP:

The T-REX headshot has nice depth. Share it here -


#3828 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

I've always thought that JP was BRUTAL on the left side, come to find out, I have a small little pilot hole in my PF that is directly above the in and out lane with nothing in it. On the right side, I have a "spike" post with no rubber on it.

There are several threads about this and it has been asked several times in this thread with no definitive answer that I can locate right now.

Mine has a pointed metal 'mini post' with no groove for a rubber on the right, and a pointed metal 'mini post' with a groove and ring on the left.

If your post is wobbly, you can put in a mini post with longer threads or repair it with a toothpick and wood glue:

1 month later
#4019 2 years ago
Quoted from t2:

New owner of a JP. What colors rubbers look best?

Check the Titan thread gallery. Great examples there, starting with a JP.


1 week later
#4075 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

Can someone check what this connector runs to?

Yup, I was just writing that it comes from a bridge rectifier mounted on the left.

example pic

#4130 2 years ago
Quoted from waldo34:

The head goes down and comes up, while coming up it chops a couple of times.

Just a guess. Sounds like the wire for the jaw coil is broke or loose, causing the jaw coil to malfunction when moving.

#4165 2 years ago
Quoted from Bond_Gadget_007:

Therefore I have a theory its building a Pops value to be collected somewhere else on the pf?

Pop hits increase park revenue which is collected when hitting the left scoop when it's flashing. (solid lit awards Mr. DNA)

#4175 2 years ago

There are lots of threads and info if you search for 'start button bulb'. Some twist, but most I have worked on pull straight out.

#4179 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

When is that row of yellow and red rectangle lights below the ramp supposed to light?

When a ball enters the ramp and hits the gate switch there, the game makes a whoosh noise and they all light for a few seconds. Is your switch at the entrance of the ramp working? It should make a whoosh noise and light them, even if the ball only goes part way up.

#4190 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Can anybody grab some quick and dirty measurements of the light shield for the topper?


#4206 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

(Noob alert) Is there supposed to be a red setting button here?

I wish someone had explained the Data East buttons when I got my JP:

Pressing Black with the green button 'in' starts diagnostics.
Pressing Black with the green button 'out' starts Audits and Adjustments.

When in a menu, green in/out sets black button to show next or previous menu item when pressed.

Some higher menu items are not shown unless you loop backwards through the list, or extend list is selected.

Start button is used change the value.

Also I keep a handy list of things I change (had to set mine for tourney mode practice, and won every JP game I played at the South Carolina State Championships)

adjutment 49 attract music on/off
adjustment 4 game awards = credit -> Extra ball -> special
adjustment 46 trex eat balls = Yes
adjustment 6 limit extra balls 3 -> 0
adjustment 41 tournament => EXPO (resets audits)
audit 25 = show # of total plays

#4208 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

how do you adjust volume?

Knob is located inside to the right, on top of the power box. (actually it is the large aluminum shaft of the volume pot sticking up)

#4221 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Enclosed a picture of the jawlink which appears to be OK.
Any suggestions ?

I noticed the hole in the jaw had a lot of play on mine, and maybe some wear, so I looped a small black cable tie through the top of the hole. Made the hole tighter, and got T-Rex back on his normal diet.

#4236 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

It appears that the gearbox has great slack.

I don't think there should be slack. Maybe something is just loose. When centered, mine stays centered.

Quoted from Chalkey:

trex is supposed to move left and right with each chew after eating a ball

Moves while chomping?? I have never seen a JP do that. Check youtube.

3 weeks later
#4283 2 years ago
Quoted from waynestatemac:

Are many people seeing much wear in the center of the playfield? I installed one of those plexi playfield protectors on the machine and I can see from 50 or so games on the machine a bunch of scratches on the playfield protector.

Not really. The most wear is in the shooter lane and scoops, and a bit on the T-REX and boat dock saucer on mine.

Welcome to the club!

#4289 2 years ago
Quoted from waynestatemac:

That probably explains why the playfield shows no wear. It probably wasn't played much and once the fuse clips started breaking nobody knew how to fix it and they just packed it away.

Generally reimports are pretty worn out and have lots of hacked repairs since foreign operators had a harder time getting parts and probably left them on route longer. Nice to hear yours is good.

Years ago, flippers would buy old games overseas and ship them back to resell, often from Europe. (72 pins in a shipping container)

3 weeks later
#4332 2 years ago

Yup, I have adjusted my diverter and bent it to a hook shape to help the ball make it across the wireform, but sometimes they still fall off the beginning of the wireform on mine and head for the right outlane. I have not had the problem where the ball reaches the end of the wireform and then hits the outlane.

Just looking a mine again and noticed that the point where the plastic meets the wireform is not a straight shot. I wonder if I could warm up the lower side of the plastic ramp and bend it in a little??

1 month later
#4381 2 years ago

Found the Matchbox 5 packs at my local target. Make sure to check the isle with all the other Jurassic World toys, not the isle with the Matchbox cars!

#4391 2 years ago

That looks like its behind the ball guide. Why would a rubber be needed?

#4401 2 years ago

They probably used a bunch. The also used the jeeps in Jurassic World.

jurassic-park-jeep-2-885x498 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#4418 1 year ago

I noticed there was a large hole in the jaw where the lever connects to the jaw. I put a small tie wrap through the top of the hole so the lever was tighter in the hole.

#4429 1 year ago

I don't have a diode there, but it appears white/green is for the switch matrix. Any switches not working? Looks like it came from that Z connector. Mine has a white/green wire connected to green/white wire at one end.

IMG_5531 (resized).JPG

#4434 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Mine has a white/green wire connected to green/white wire at one end.

fixing my typo - that should say white/green goes to white/green.

#4435 1 year ago

If your a fan of Jurassic Park, check out the new simulation/strategy game - Jurassic World Evolution. I'm pretty occupied with pinball and other PC games, so I just watch the pros play on twitch, but it looks awesome!!


Highlights --

Take charge of operations on the legendary islands of the Muertes archipelago and bring the wonder, majesty and danger of dinosaurs to life. Build for Science, Entertainment or Security interests in an uncertain world where life always finds a way.

Bioengineer dinosaurs that think, feel and react intelligently to the world around them. Play with life itself to give your dinosaurs unique behaviors, traits and appearances, then contain and profit from them to fund your global search for lost dinosaur DNA.

Control the big picture with deep management tools or go hands-on to confront challenges on the ground or in the air. Expand your islands and choose your own journey in an all-new narrative featuring iconic characters from across the franchise and decades of Jurassic lore at your fingertips.

#4437 1 year ago
Quoted from woody24:

The one disappointment I have with it is the lack of Driver-less Ford Explorer sight-seeing track.

LOL, that would be cool. You can build a track for the hamster balls from Jurassic World, so the Explorer track should be easy to add or maybe a mod.

Probably an aviary and aquarium DLC in the works.

3 weeks later
#4439 1 year ago

Was helping a friend diagnose a flipper issue on a JP, and wouldn't you know it, mine started acting up when I played later!! That flipper circuit sure is convoluted with the blinking LEDs on the solid state flipper board and the signal running across 4 boards.

Is there a simplified flipper circuit diagram for data east that shows an overview and what signals to expect?

In my case the LED1 for the LR flipper was not blinking and the flipper coil was only getting the hold current when activated. After confirming the wiring at the flipper button switch, EOS switch and coil were OK, the connectors were secure, and the fuses were good, I took some readings, and finally I examined the flipper board. With a lot of searching and close inspection, I found 2 transistors (Q4 and Q?) that had been bumped and pushed over, resulting in poor solder joints that needed repair, and I reflowed the connector headers on the board for good measure and was back in business.

I got a bit sidetracked when taking measurements to troubleshoot, since the signals across the whole board bounce a bit when you fire any flipper, and of coarse pressing the right flipper button also activates the UR flipper, so I finally put a card in the UR flipper switch to keep it from firing when I was checking the LR flipper circuit and started over with the measurements. Others have noted that the flipper board is in a bad position in the cab, and can get bumped, and really clobbered if the playfield gets dropped inside the cab.

1 week later
#4455 1 year ago

Fortunately, if there is any issue with the T-Rex, the software lets you disable side to side movement or disable it entirely so you can enjoy your pin while searching for parts, etc.

#4467 1 year ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Time for me to join the club officially, yay.
I bought my JP about two years ago and its the machine that got me into this hobby. I had no plans to start buying pinball machines, when I stumbled upon this game. Long story short, the guy asked $600

Welcome to club, you got quite a deal. Seems like my last sweet deal was 2yrs ago as well. I wonder if those good deals are still out there with the growth of pinball and the collector market.

DE made a bunch of JPs, so plenty of us here to coach you along if needed. Watch for any sticky switches in the trough, and make sure the wires are secure on the EOS switches and the control room scoop switch. Those are some of the common issues I have found.

5 krona = 1 speil. Looks like that is a reimport from Sweden. That just adds more to the story.

1 week later
#4489 1 year ago
Quoted from Andyj965:

The only issue i've experienced is on a few occassions the t-rex head hasn't gone back up. But if i restart the game the head operates normally for another 20+ games.

I have not seen that but, try looking under the playfield in that area and make sure the wires are not coming loose from the motor or the sensor. Also look over all the hardware under there for anything coming loose.

3 weeks later
#4506 1 year ago
Quoted from mrpilkington:

I'm just at loss at to where to start. Tested F5 and it is blown. But i know that would generally be a sympton and not what really caused it. I smelled ozone in the backbox. And under playfield. Anyone have any ideas of where I should start?

When things go wrong after you touch something, start the investigation with what your were touching. You had the ball diverter out. Did a wire fall off the coil and touch something? Is the coil mounted in a position where it is now touching something? Are your sure the wires were reattached correctly?

I do not have access to my schematics now. Is F5 for the coil power?

#4508 1 year ago
Quoted from mrpilkington:

Will replace and replace fuse and see if i did any more damage.

Yup, you could test things with that coil disconnected as a first step.

2 months later
#4647 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Here is another variation of the red trim.

The red armor with back coin door / red bezel is brilliant. The red ring about the black screams "DANGER" and really matches the theme.

Red armor with red coin door and red gun is too much and makes me cringe. Most pins, I recomend powder coated armor with a chrome coin door, but the black/red really looks sweet on JP.

Scroll through the gallery of this thread for zillions of options on powder coating -


#4665 1 year ago

I'm not sure of the value of that one, but with some looking you can find a fairly nice JP for ~$2500, so I would pass on one with a bad cab.

Photos of the inside would provide more info.

2 weeks later
#4698 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

15. I have never seen a wire form ramp that has the "side" piece that is seen above the flippers. No big deal and maybe they changed it through the production run but I have never seen that. If you like it then its fine.

Good eye, I never seen that before. I need one of these to keep the ball from flying off on my JP.

1 week later
#4739 1 year ago
Quoted from kcZ:

Check out my mod... Can you spot it?

The box in front of the T-REX spotlight with the red lamp and 'shoot t-rex' decals is missing. Looks nice without it. (and spot light hood added)
The T-REX paddock looks chromed, and no decals.
The Raptor shot ball rails and other rails appear chromed also.
The pop caps are detailed with black paint.
Colored post rubbers.

Did I spot it??

3 weeks later
#4787 1 year ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

however, there are flashers on top of the cabinet with a stainless steel reflection bar that directs the flasher lights towards the topper so that during gameplay the flashers do indeed flash onto the topper.

Actually there are 3 GI bulbs that light the topper, which are lit all the time except when the backbox blinks while waiting to plunge and 2 flashers that fire during play, like shown in the photo above. (Maybe your topper GI bulbs are out?) When the GI blinks while waiting to plunge, you get a great shadow effect on the topper.

The JP at my local arcade in '93 had the topper, so it's the only way to go IMHO.

#4791 1 year ago

Topper light show?

2 weeks later
#4820 1 year ago

DE pins are notorious for speaker hum noise in a quiet environment from the insert lamp and DMD interference. The Pinsound would resolve that.

#4834 1 year ago
Quoted from jorro:

Weird thing with the humming is
When i disconnected my right speaker my hum went away

Same here. I believe the right speaker is the tweeter that best reproduces that high frequency mosquito hum/buzz.

Several posters in the DE hum thread noticed that the hum improved when they upgraded the speakers. I guess the upgraded speakers just don't reproduce that frequency very well or something else less likely is occurring.

Also keep in mind that the DMD itself on DE pins can also buzz quite a bit, and you may have had the DMD unplugged when testing. I think the DMD buzz is due to the flimsy plastic speaker panel compared to the wood speaker panel on B/W pins which I think blocks that buzz better.

1 week later
#4890 1 year ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Fellas: what’s the consensus on cliffys for this? My scoop holes are really nice and I wanna preserve them.
Somewhere I read cliffys on jp didn’t work well and caused ball issues.

I don't notice any rejects from the cliffys on my JP.

#4900 1 year ago
Quoted from edward472:

I'm trying to join the club. I've been looking for one near me for a few months now. I know prices vary widely based on condition. What's the going rate on a player's condition machine? I figured if anyone would know it would be you guys, and I didn't want to start another price check thread. Thanks in advance.

Welcome to Pinside! I see your from Columbia, SC. FYI - There is a fun tournament and league scene there, and in Greenville and Charleston as well, and I usually show up at the tournaments and there are a bunch of other cool folks. Placed 27th in the state last year and 16th the year before, so you can see the scene and talent is growing quickly. (you can check the IFPA calendar for more on that if interested)

Regarding price, a lot of it is being at the right place a the right time. You can see Pinside says $2500-2900. That is assumed a fairly nice condition, fully working pin at a private sale if you can track one down that cheap. A retailer would charge more to cover their overhead, etc. Maybe $3500+. A fully restored JP would be even more.

Players condition (fully working with significant playfield and cabinet wear) I guess would be around 2k or less. It all depends on condition, so beaters are less. Boards or things needing repair or parts missing would make it a project which is the best deal if your handy with tools and a soldering iron.

Someone might say - I dare you to show me a nice JP for 2500-2900, but they made 9008, so deals do come along.

3 weeks later
#5021 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

2. How does the menu work on this thing. The system is not self explanatory like it is on the 4 button Stern/Bally/Williams systems.
3. Is it possible to turn the sound off on the attract mode in this? I have the 6.0 code.

Here are my notes on operating the menu buttons and a list of common settings, such as turning attract sounds on/off:

Pressing Black with the green button 'in' starts diagnostics.
Pressing Black with the green button 'out' starts Audits and Adjustments.
When in a menu, set the green in or out to go to next or previous menu item when black is pressed.
Some higher menu items are not shown unless you go backwards through the list, or 'extend list' is selected.
Start button is used change the value, then hit next to save.

adjustment 49 attract music = off
adjustment 4 game awards = credit -> Extra ball -> special
adjustment 46 trex eat balls = yes
adjustment 6 limit extra balls 3 = 0
adjustment 41 tournament => EXPO (resets audits)
audit 12 expand audits, then audit 25 = show total plays

#5044 1 year ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Are there any maintenance items I should be looking for and replacing?

Check the batteries in the backbox for leakage and clean up and replace if necessary.

Does the display show a credit dot? (does it display "free play" or "free play." or "0 Credits." The period there means there is switch not working, etc.)

#5046 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

I'm in the club! Drove 6 hours round trip last night to grab this one at a pretty decent price. Got home with it at 2:30 AM. A little tired but excited!!

Welcome to the club! Put that piano on Criags List and make room for more.

It looks like the bulbs for your topper are burned out.

#5080 1 year ago
Quoted from Geteos:

How is the control room activation supposed to work?

Hitting the power shed scoop in the upper right lights the control room, or when the ball goes down an inlane the control room will blink for a moment.

When the yellow lamp is lit or blinking the control room scoop should start a mode.

That switch can fail and the wires can come loose frequently, and sometimes the ball bounces over it. I have my switch mounted at an angle and bent high enough that it always registers. You can use the switch test mode to try it manually with the ball to verify it works reliably.

#5083 1 year ago

Test it with the PF down. The easy way would be to take the glass off and start a game and you can drop balls in and shoot balls in there and test when lit and confirm a mode always starts. That way the ball will keep kicking out and you can try over and over. Try the switch test as well. You should see the scoop switch blip and then the up kicker switch.

#5150 1 year ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Whats the going rate for this Pin these days?

Condition is everything. Yours has some scoop wear, but the area around the flippers looks OK and your pin works, so that would affect the value a little, etc.

Location also plays a factor, and if a store or dealer is selling it with a warranty, they would charge a premium.

LED's, Topper, Color DMD, etc, add some value.

I consider the Pinside price a rough guide for a good condition, working pin at a private sale such as $3000 or a little more.

#5206 1 year ago

Also, if picking up glass at a show is not an option for various reasons, Pinball Life charges $100 for 2 sheets inc. shipping to your door.

#5237 1 year ago

Rumors are circling that Stern will be making a Jurassic World pin this year. Start making space.

I think when a sequel title comes out, it stirs interest in the predecessor, so I guess JP prices will climb further.

#5270 1 year ago

5) Trough coil wiring ….

IMG_6968 (resized).jpg

IMG_6969 (resized).jpg

Here's another knocker pic. The knocker in JP sounds anemic! The backbox might sound better.

IMG_6967 (resized).jpg

#5276 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Do other people have the support bracket back away from the pf edge like that?

The photos here and online show the 2 service supports posts in the same position as mine on most JP, but some don't have them. They are handy to rest the PF before giving the big shove to get over the bumps that resist sliding it back.

2 weeks later
#5429 1 year ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

T rex goes down to get the ball but his jaw clench to grab the ball seems to be delayed and only go off as he is already going back up and therefore not grabbing the ball.

Maybe one of the wires for the jaw coil has broke where it bends. You can take the cover off his head/back to see the jaw coil on his back.

You can also manually tilt him forward in test mode and use the trigger to test the jaw while wiggling the wires.

#5442 1 year ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Hey guys can i ask how you can get into the t rex diagnostica mode ?


#5474 1 year ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Found a 5 pack of 5amp fuses for 1.98 in HD bought 3 packs and switched out the rest of the F spots with freshies

Fresh fuses are not necessary, but no harm.

4 weeks later
#5774 1 year ago
Quoted from 7oxford:

When the ball exits the pop bumpers, after the initial plunge, it often drains straight down the middle.

Pops are intended to be random and dangerous, so be ready to nudge. That being said, mine don't often do that. Is your pin level?

#5800 1 year ago
Quoted from woody24:

None of them helped me save at all. Its for those who are already wasteful. For me though. I eat out way too much for lunch. Its just not fun staying in to eat.

You can't have everything! Where would you put it?

Keep on stimulating the local economy.

1 week later
#5912 1 year ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

So what is wrong with the repop ones for $150?? Just curious as I have an original already

I got a repop off Ebay a few years ago and it looks perfect IMHO. I love that original style JP topper look.

1 month later
#6317 11 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I am trying to find a suitable match

You could take it to the craft store to find something, but just thinking about what is around the house. That looks similar to bike inner tube if you have something like that around to try.

2 weeks later
#6509 11 months ago
Quoted from bigcat68:

I've come to the forum to ask for advise on diagnosing a few issues on my JP.
Several different problems, but all light related.
First one:
- At the feed T-Rex apron lights. When a game is started the top T bulb is not lit and the others, R-E-X bulbs are flashing. This should be opposite with the T bulb flashing and the R-E-X bulbs off until the proper shots are made to spell T-REX during gameplay.
-when game starts all the red & green targets on playfield are lit up. On about half of them, when they get hit, the bulb insert below dims and the light can be still seen in the insert flashing. The insert light should be off completely to show that shot was made.
The green & yellow power shed scoop lights are constantly flashing throughout gameplay. They should coordinate with the rules and light up according to when the scoop shot should be made.
Any advice would be appreciated on how to tackle these issues.
I've been watching the lights during gameplay, when a shot is hit and they are supposed to be off the light is still on and flashing. There seems to be added voltage to several bulb sockets throughout the playfield. Maybe bad diodes/resistors on the sockets?

Sounds like all those issues are related. Something with the lamp matrix.

Are CN6 and CN7 connected correctly to the CPU board?

If you run that lamp tests shown on page 28 of the manual, do you see anything that makes sense, like some certain rows or columns working wrong in the individual lamp test?

2 weeks later
#6629 10 months ago
Quoted from jugood20:

I am experiencing a ball trough issue and was hoping someone could give me some advice

That question comes up about once a year. The switch in the video gets stiff.


#6679 10 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

he said it's going to be designed buy the guy who did Medieval Madness

Yes, Brian Eddy, the designer of MM and AFM was hired by Stern. (George Gomez announced that at TPF.)

We are due for a game from him or Keith Elwin next.

Stern has announced they will reveal something this weekend at ComiCon. Everything else is rumor.

#6684 10 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

tern JP:
-2 very simple cheap ramps
-T-rex on a spring, they call it "toy"
-Photoshop playfield
-Everything at the back, nothing really to shot at lower playfield

In case you didn't see the new thread. Sterns big ComiCon is announcement is they are making a home version of Star Wars.

#6706 10 months ago
Quoted from hawkeyexx:

Loop scoop combo mod......one of them is Terrible......the gap between the bulbs and the clear plastic is huge!!!!

Do you have the bunker (pyramid) on the left, and computer on the right?

Mine fit fine.

#6744 10 months ago
Quoted from altan:

As of today, Pinside says "Estimated value $2680 - $3120"

That price is quite low IMHO. Hard to find a fully working, good condition DE JP for that.

Quoted from JohnJN:

Am I wrong? Is anyone thinking of buying this thing?

Can't answer until I have played it.

#6766 10 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Kinda curious who they hired to do the animations. Compared to Aerosmith, this one blows it away.

I listened to the interview last month, but what I recall Gomez asked industry long time game animator Chuck Ernst, for advice building the team to do their graphics, and ended up hiring Chuck to build the team at Stern.


When asked about the animation during the stream, Kieth listed about 10 names that worked on JP.

2 weeks later
#6804 9 months ago

Not sure this club needs to be renamed. All the members can find it easily just looking at their 'topics in which you posted' as your Pinside start page. That's where I start when opening Pinside.

Sterns JP should be noted as JP2 in the forums since it is a big tribute to our JP:

Similar playfield art
Smart Missile
Feed T-REX hurryup
Spelling C-H-A-O-S
T-REX eating the ball
Raptor Pit shot
Escape shot
similar 3-flipper layout
East Dock
Visitors Center
Control Room
System Boot
Raptor multiball

Added 8 months ago:

Helicopter arrives when you press start.
Yellow logo pop bumper caps.

1 week later
#6897 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

You ask, I deliver. I even almost made it to shut-down mode. Forgot to take the glass off, but shouldn't be too big of a bother. Enjoy.

Great looking JP! The jeep blocks the view of the upper flipper a little, so that's not for me. It's fun watching the color DMD. I never noticed the Spitter Attack mode [at 3:00] had the animation of the Dilophosaurus spitting at Nedry. They got the spitter sound right in the Pinsound version. So cool!

#6901 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I'm wondering how my pop bumper action is compared to others.

Those are more active than stock. Definitely get the ball moving.

#6918 9 months ago
Quoted from jorro:

Finaly had the time to install Mr Tantrum's target decals.
Great product, i already have his door decal and he was realy great making me apron decals with cutouts for the lightbulbs.
Some pics

Those are great pics. You should post a few in the pinball photography thread.


1 month later
#7068 7 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I had an opportunity to play the new Stern Jurassic Park LE yesterday,

My local pinball museum got an LE and I spent most of yesterday playing it also. I know JP2 is well received overall, but everyone has their own likes and dislikes, so we each have to try it for ourselves.

The T-REX head moves fairly smoothly and looks pretty cool. It is kind of snake like and creepy. I think they did a good job with it. I love when he swings over and drops the ball on the wireform ramp. The angle you view the head from is sort of top down which is not optimum. When you shoot the ball in to his mouth I think a magnet grabs it, so as long as the ball makes it up in to his mouth, it does not reject. Unfortunately this LE was having issues with the lower right flipper yesterday and getting it up in to his mouth and making the ramp shot was harder than it should have been. The flipper was a little week and would droop a little when holding it up to catch a ball, so it needed repair, and the owner of the museum was not around. One other issue I noticed with this LE was the left fence post was leaning on the T-REX and would rock left/right when the T-REX moved, so something was loose there. Hate seeing a new pin with issues, but that's pinball.

That being said, the pin was fun to shoot. From my play, and watching the streams, I noticed the upper right flipper could be dangerous. When trying to repeat the loop, and missing a fast moving loop shot, the ball often came back diagonally and headed for the outlanes. If the ball is going too fast, hold the flipper up and the ball will hit the target there and bounce back to the flipper for a more safe and controlled upper flipper shot.

The toys were fun to shoot. The truck/newton ball was fun to flip back and forth. The motorized door in front of the raptor pit was fun to hit and knock the locked ball around in there. The spinner is fun. Dialing in all the shots to spell CHAOS is tricky, and hitting the "amber" shot up through the pops was satisfying to start CHAOS. The light show was also well done. There was a ton of stuff going on with the rules that I was not yet familiar with, so it seems like there is plenty to do if you had this in a home environment. The CGI graphics on the display were decent, so Stern is making progress there. The sound package seemed fine for as much as I could hear. I really love the 'spitter dino' spinner sound, which is probably the best spinner sound in any pin yet!

The mirrored backglass is REALLY nice, but the cartoony truck they added does not fit the artwork IMHO. I think a beat up generic vehicle would have been much cooler.

This (resized).jpg

not this (resized).jpg

Anyway, its a pinball machine and not a truck documentary, so who cares. My overall take on the pin is that I like it (which I don't often say about new pins) and it does not diminish the fun I have with my Data East JP. I don't have any plans or space to get a new pin, but If I were in the market, it would be between this and Wonka LE which is also fun to shoot.

1 week later
#7078 7 months ago

You have to bend the mounting wire so the plastic sits in front of the 2 bulbs. Also note how mine is attached. The mounting wire goes between the bracket for the 2 bulbs and wires and nut there. (your wire is routed on the wrong side of the wire and nut)

IMG_7517 (resized).jpg

#7080 7 months ago
Quoted from adamross:

Very helpful, I appreciate the help. Seems my version of this mod might be different, the wire seems to be of different length / bend

Also make sure your putting the correct one in the correct spot.

1 month later
#7146 6 months ago
Quoted from jugood20:

I am having an issue sometimes during six ball multiball, if all six balls are in play and if more than three of the balls drain all at once, the ball trough won’t feed the shooter lane. It sounds like the shooter lane is trying to “shoot” the ball, but the ball trough isn’t feeding the ball to the shooter lane. I’ve talked to a couple of my pinball friends and they seem to think it is because of the ball trough divots.

You have this issue:

3 weeks later
#7162 5 months ago
Quoted from Mikew492:

I’ve started to research switch matrix and what’s really interesting is that there are three switches that fail in diagnostics and they are all next to each other in the same matrix row. I wonder if it’s a faulty diode or wiring between these three switches. Row 8, number 24, 32, and 40.

Likely a problem with the wire that goes to that row: Gray with white dots.

Probably came loose from one switch which makes the rest down the line not work also. Follow the wire and check it, starting at those switches.

#7166 5 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

Its a coil not a switch so I don't need to check the switch matrix.

There is a switch in the shooter lane. If the ball is not detected on that switch, it may not auto plunge.

#7168 5 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

Even during the coil test?

No, if it does not operate during the coil test, its not the switch.

#7170 5 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

That's what I thought. I'm starting to think it the transistor on the PPB

I have never worked on that, but I enjoy electronics. It appears it is driven by Q5 which gets its signal from D3.

Also, do you have the 50v at the coil?

Untitled (resized).jpg

#7175 5 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Why is my game skipping past a bunch of settings in the adjustments? Im trying to turn free play off, which is adjustment 30, and my game goes from 19 to 99. But when I go backwards its there. W t f

That's normal to make it faster. You can also turn on 'extended list'.

Here are my notes on the goofy DE 3 menu buttons:

Pressing Black with the green button 'in' starts diagnostics.
Pressing Black with the green button 'out' starts Audits and Adjustments.
When in a menu, set the green in or out to go to next or previous menu item when black is pressed.
Some higher menu items are not shown unless you go backwards through the list, or 'extend list' is selected.
Start button is used to change the value, then hit next to save.

1 week later
#7212 5 months ago
Quoted from Turdbol:

The bigger problem (amongst many) is that now I have this music sound (T-Rex Stomp) that comes on at the beginning and will NOT STOP. It repeats, UNTIL - I hit the start game button - once that happens, it joyfully reminds me that I am "missing 6 balls"

It sounds like there are a few things going on, so concentrate on things that cause multiple issues. Start with the easy stuff: Check the fuses and reseat the ribbon cables in the backbox.

Are there 6 balls in the trough or is one in the subway, etc?

If you enter the diagnostics, are there any messages?

#7229 4 months ago
Quoted from Turdbol:

maybe one of the fuses needed to be reseated, or if this is a fluke,

A fuse can be loose or maybe the fuse holder is not making a good connection to the board. It could also be an intermittent connection somewhere. If the issues returns, start again checking for the voltage at the coil.

1 week later
#7243 4 months ago
Quoted from Marco1973:

We turned it on and all lights were lighting, the display was off, the pin was not starting his program.
After about one minute, the display turned slowly on and the pin started to make the test with the dyno.
Finished the test, I started the game pushing the start button but no sound was playing.
After 1/2 minute the voice started to play and after some seconds the music too.
It seems the pin works right only when.it is "warm".

That is weird! Are the batteries in the backbox leaking and causing some CPU issue?

1 week later
#7252 4 months ago
Quoted from jurassicpark93:

By the way, the speakers are 100% original, they just have a different logo because this pinball is one of the last machines made "end of series", it is very rare... but honestly, I prefer the original logo yellow and red... I need to find someone interested to mod his JP and do a swap

Your English is fine. Welcome to the JP club!

Is that logo painted on or is that a sticker? How do you know it is end of series? Is anything else different with your JP?

Many times there are prototype 'first' versions that are different from the standard production version of a pinball machine, but I am not aware of a special final version of JP.

#7282 4 months ago


#7290 4 months ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

I realigned my flipper angle on my lower-left-flipper two days ago and suddenly the flipper will stop working all together at random.
If I physically move the flipper up while holding the left button it will eventually engage and play a few more rounds but will eventually die again and not respond. When I do hold the button the flipper is definitely getting power and if I physically move it up it will stay up and the hold in the up position is strong.

Make sure the flipper coil wires are secure on the coil, not cracked a little. Same goes for the wires on the End of Stop (EOS) switch there, make sure the wires are secure, and also make sure the EOS switch contacts are clean.

#7336 3 months ago
Quoted from peteyhugs:

I pulled the batteries while the machined was powered off. Is it difficult to set it back to Free Play?

FYI - Here are my notes on adjustment and some settings I sometimes use...

Pressing Black with the green button 'in' starts diagnostics.
Pressing Black with the green button 'out' starts Audits and Adjustments.
When in a menu, set the green in or out to go to next or previous menu item when black is pressed.
Some higher menu items are not shown unless you go backwards through the list, or 'extend list' is selected.
Start button is used to change the value, then hit next to save.

adjustment 49 attract music = off
adjustment 4 game awards = credit -> Extra ball -> special
adjustment 46 trex eat balls = yes
adjustment 6 limit extra balls 3 -> 0
adjustment 41 tournament => EXPO (resets audits)
adjustment 30 Free Play

#7337 3 months ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

I too have been debating the sticker route or finding a mod like the ones pictured earlier, but the purist in me never reached out to the guy to ask if he could do the JP dinos lol.

If you like craft projects with the family, print out the photo to scale, cut out the dino shape for a little stencil, then remove and paint the metal screen using the sencil. (flip it over for the left side)

speaker (resized).jpg

#7351 3 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

I turn it on does it matter which black wires you have going to pins 6 and 3? Can they go either way?

Appears both are ground coming from the same spot on the PS. You could further check by measuring the resistance between the 2 wires, they should be a zero ohm short it they are the 2 wires shown here in the schematic.

CN2 (resized).jpg

#7369 3 months ago

Yup, it appears that the programmers did not fully utilize the 5 difficulty settings in JP, only default vs hard/extra hard which only force those 3 settings. There may be more utilization in subsequent ROM versions.

Also, the ChadH custom JP ROM further utilizes the difficulty settings if I understand correctly.


#7376 3 months ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

Just came across a thread referencing the "Data East Hum". Guessing this is what I'm hearing?

You can install an add-on DC power supply for the sound board to eliminate the speaker hum.

I have noticed my JP DMD is also noisy, making a ringing noise when bright graphics are displayed, which is a second source of hum.

2 weeks later
#7434 3 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

my shaker is loud and too strong imo.

You can easily add an inexpensive motor speed controller to a shaker if needed, and make your shaker power adjustable.


#7442 86 days ago
Quoted from freshjive:

Any one have any ideas on this?

If you go in to diagnostics and select the switch test, and just let it sit for an hour, does anything happen? Do you see other switches randomly firing? If any switches fire, I believe you will hear a beep (take off the glass and press a switch to try it), so you can do other things while waiting to see if you hear any beeps while it is sitting, it should also show what switch fired last if it does beep.

#7446 83 days ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

At the time I thought $1800 was too much to spend on a pinball machine.

It is! We just don't know better. Welcome to the club!

#7448 82 days ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Another Happy mr_tantrum customer!

I see your control room cliffy is curling up in the right side like mine. I figured the previous owner was cleaning and caught the rag on the back of the cliffy and bent it up, but maybe they just deform that way because the scoop hole is a little worn?

#7461 78 days ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

Has anyone else encountered this issue?
If I start Tri-Ball and am about to drain to 1 ball, I will try to hit the smart missle to begin CHAOS.
If I hit the button too late, the game tries to start Tri-Ball again (presumably with 2 balls) as the smart missle would have activated the Tri-Ball restart. However my game only plays the animation and says TRI BALL! The game does not put an additional ball into play and multiball never starts.
I’ve had this happen a few times now. I’m running ChadH 6.0 code. I am unsure if it’s a code issue with that version, all versions, or something else (maybe trough switch related?)

Sounds like a trough issue. If it thinks you drained 2 balls and are out of MB, and then you press the smart missile button, it acts like you hit the "raptor shot or TREX saucer to restart MB" and not advance to CHAOS.

#7463 78 days ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

I tried cleaning the contacts on the pop bumper a bit, but am wondering if this needs a full rebuild?

clean the dust out of the spoon part too.

#7465 78 days ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

Interesting, never really considered that? I have some compressed air, should I spray it under the skirt on top of the playfield, or below?

I would wipe it clean from the underside with a q-tip or remove the switch from underneath.

Spoon info here

#7469 74 days ago
Quoted from Zarklin:

but when i have the playfgield down and go through the tests only the top position activates both on the dmd

Remember switch matrix / diode issues can be related to a combo of switches, row+column. So when when the balls are in the trough, that may change the behavior your seeing.

#7498 69 days ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

You may have to replace the jaw frame and/or link assembly to get it tightened up depending on the wear you have.

In my case, the hole in the jaw were the link connects appeared worn. I looped a small black tie wrap through the top of the hole to remove the slop, and get TREX back on his normal diet.

#7502 68 days ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

How did you guys get the bottom jaw off?

You can see the screw 38 holding on the jaw 37. The back of the TREX is also 1 screw.

trex parts list (resized).jpg

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