I added a second rubber to the star post to indeed make it fatter, it was so evil that the game wasn't fun to play at all. the slings would literally lob it into the outlane way too often! I didn't touch the lane guide rubber, it's just a rubber sleeve on the post. Someone changed that before I bought the game. My whole game is due for a rubber swap anyway.

I am going to have to try that. both mine are metal posts. I think I have some star posts I can scavenge off a parts playfield.

You mean above the ball guide or the movable/adjustable holes above?

I think a star post above the guide would be too big...
Any pics?

My JP really upsetting me these last days... So hard.

I had some sitting around from a dismantled playfield so I threw them in. They only are a little bigger so they should help. Blue look good in there.

20210226_161040 (resized).jpg

20210226_161045 (resized).jpg

OK, I see your are talking about the post above the outlane. I was spacing out and thinking about the unique post that goes above the inlane guide. Here is my left outlane:

IMG_9210 (resized).jpg

There is a slot there to move the post up and down to change the outlane gap. Also, I have the included optional metal post and o-ring installed at the inlane guide rail. (right side just has a metal post with no o-ring groove in that spot)

Other things you can do to change the difficulty:
Adjust playfield pitch. 6.5deg is recommended, but setting it closer to 6deg will make the game play easier.
Installing Supperbands on the flipper bats will make the game play easier. (less bouncy than rubber or silicone)
Changing settings like ballsave time, etc.

Need help on how to move T-Rex to the center position manually?
It cant be moved in the menu due to malfunctiobing motor i think, I need to have it centered. Tried to push it by hand but it didnt move, I didnt want to push too hard.

What screws should I loosen? Is it done from under the playfield or above?

Thanks!

20210307_140145 (resized).jpg

Take out the motor on the underside (Just 2 screws), if your gearbox isn't jammed up you should be able to move the t-rex.

Thanks! Do u mean the up/down motor or the left/right? A pic would help, if u have any many thanks!

It's the left-right motor attached directly to the gearbox. It's this round thingy (sorry for the blurry image):

t-rex l-r assembly (resized).png

@Bucknaked, thanks man, really appreciate your help

Here is another photo of the motor in question which shows the 2 screws that need to be removed to take off the motor.

Gord

DSCN3445 (resized).JPG

PSA for newer DE games. There is a rubber bungee cord in the game to hold the playfield vertical so you can work on it. It is very tough to pull on to connect, but worth it to work on it this way. I'm not sure if the older DE games, like Robocop, has it or not.

pasted_image (resized).png

I am a fan of the bungee, too. Here are the other positions in case it helps anyone...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-raise-and-lower-de-playfields-into-the-various-service-position#post-3276061

Thanks for that! I use service pos. 3 and keep looking at it and thinking there is no way that bungee will reach.

Haha. nope!

Position 1 is nice for middle of playfield and things closer to the flippers because they're not as high as they are in position 3. I also find that getting into and out of position 1 is also faster/easier for quick tweaks.

I string a bungee over the top of the head, attached to the brackets at the front of the playfield. Much simpler to attach than the rubber bungee inside the cabinet:
pasted_image (resized).png

Got 12 coils that wont work, neither in test menu nor in play. According to seller, they worked before shipment. Tested the fuses and they seem fine. What to do next?

Coils are #:
7R,
11-21,
1R

(Note: the switches registers fine, for instance the pop bumber and slingshot switches are ok, but coils dont fire)
Any ideas are appreciated, thanks

I'd be looking at the common power to coils.

That´s my thought as well, but where is the common power? Trying to figure it out from the manual, but I feel lost

Check the 32 volt and 50 volt DC line passing through the PPB, J6 (1-2-3 is 32 volt) and J7 connectors.

32v comes from power supply board, CN3 connector (6-7-8) and where I'd spend some time. Make sure you are seeing the 32v coming out of the power supply board first. Bad fuse clips very common.

Thanks, I'll mesure those!
Where in the manual can I found a coil matrix or similar, to know what coils are sharing the same wiring, and where in the backbox they should go(what transistor) so that I can check continuty?

I only find a switch matrix but not for coils :/

1) Page 49 of the factory manual, page 56 of the pdf off the pinball database.

2) Easy test to check coil wiring continuity once you get the power up?

Take a jumper wire and attach it to ground. The other end briefly touch the metal tab on the top of the individual driver. This will fire off the corresponding flasher or coil. If the coil or flasher fires off you know the wiring, coil or flasher is good to that connector.

Only do it momentarily! Left on for any period of time the flasher or coil will burn.

Is this on JP?
I have the bungee but I've never found a loop to connect it to on the playfield!

Yes

I'm not with my machine, but IIRC, approx 3 inches from the right side and 1 inch from the bottom. It is a simple eyelet screw. I usually have to push a few wires out of the way to get to it.

Does anyone have any photos or links on how the DEJP playfield can be lifted out and placed temporarily outside the cabinet? I've got inner side blade decals I want to install and have never attempted the task of removing the whole PF. How should it be positioned to avoid damage to PF components? Is there enough slack in the cables to stand it, say, on the floor? I'm guessing it's a 2-man job, seeing as how this 300+lb bubba is one of the heaviest pins ever made. (A "sky hook" would be great if someone could build one.)

I've removed the pf altogether by disconnecting connectors in the head. I don't think you're going to be able to work with it still attached. I placed the pf on the ground, back end down, bottom side leaning against the wall. If you have a lift table, I find it easiest to lift out the pf when legs are removed and the table is at the lowest level. Insert in reverse order.

It's a hassle, but not like you're doing it all the time, so I don't mind full removal on occasion.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/de-jurassic-park-refurb-for-my-army-son#post-5678876

I had no problem popping it out to repaint the inside of the cab, nothing unplugged either.

Whoa, that is a bit of a hassle. I should have posed these questions before I bought the blades. I'm getting too old for some of this stuff. Thanks for the input. I'll try the less challenging approach per gdonovan first, but I'll wait until my muscle-bound son comes to visit. He should be able to hold the PF up in the air while I affix the decals. (After a few beers, he'll do it one-handed just to show off.) I'll post a pic.

There is usually enough slack in the wires to lift it out and set it on a table, chair, etc beside the cabinet

Another thing to consider is adding felt to the sides of the playfield so that you don't inadvertently scratch the side blades when you lift the playfield for any maintenance.

Gord

What I find is not so much the side of the playfield scratching the blades but the playfield pivot arm as you are lowering the field back down likes to hook the top edge of the side art and rip or tear it.

Knew I had a picture kicking around, not mine.

DEJP_PLAYFIELD (resized).jpg

I like the felt idea a lot -- if they make a felt tape thin enough. But the pivot arm? Do you mean the pivot pins on the PF sides that pivot in a slot at the end of the rails? If so, if you raise or lower the PF at a slight angle left or right, you can see where they pose damage. They look as thought they could be removed and bench-ground shorter by maybe 1/8" and still rest safely in their slots.

gdonovan: thanks for the pic. Perfect!

So, an update to my issue regarding the 12 coils that are not working:

- There is no voltage when measuring at the coils

- Power Supply CN3:
Pin 5 is 85VDC (not sure what it should be)
Pin 6,7,8 should be 34VDC, I get 1,1VDC (!!)
Pin 10 should have continuty to pin 3 and ground, but it don't

- PPB, J6:
Pin 1,2,3 should be 32VDC, I get 84VDC
Pin 6,7 should be 28VDC, I get 84VDC. Also, there should be continuty to F7 but I can´t seem to find F7?

- PPB, J7: All values are OK (should be 50VDC, I get 74VDC)

Really appreciate if someone can guide me from here. Fuses are OK (exept for F7 which I can´t find). I think my problem is with CN3 pin 6,7,8 - what could be causing this low value? Are the values for J6/J7 on the PPB OK, or why are they so high?

This is my first Data East, I´m only used to Williams.
Should I post this on the general forum instead?

Cheers

Anyone know a guide, pics or anything where I can find info on how to adjust the switches on T-Rex?
Seems that I need to take out the whole thing to be able to get to the screws that holds som of the switches?

Any info would be great, thanks!

Oh and I read somethibg about a set screw, what's that?

Google
Screenshot_20210311-071207_Samsung Internet (resized).jpg

In my tftc the oes switch of the right flipper is connected as in the photo, both wires are connected on one point, is that right? Everything works fine. In my jp instead each point has its own wire connected
Thanks

20210308_225600 (resized).jpg

Perhaps you are looking for the theory of t-rex operation. Very helpful.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts-blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/039A_SB.pdf

Thanks, I already have seen this and yes, it is really helpful
However, I was looking for instructions on how to disamble, or what to disamble (in what order etc), to get to the swithes so I can adjust them.

Also, a really stupid question, but adjusting switches is simply a matter of unscrewing the switches and re-srewing them onto the same place (same screw holes) but with a slithly different position then before?
Tried that on one of the switches but couldnt get it to trigger, the only way is to bend the switch which I know is a big no-no.

How do u guys do it?

I unplugged and removed the whole trex unit from playfield, it's not hard.

Adjust the switches is done by bending the arms on the switches, you have EM leaf bending tool right?

Verity the switches are working with a meter and reinstall.

large (resized).jpg

Yes! Unplugging the whole trex sounds like a great idea!
Are there any instructions for that? Like is it only done under the playfield or is something supposed to be removed from above as well?

All is below the playfield, the only thing that has to be removed topside if I recall is the plastic back of the t-rex which is a single screw. You will also have to pull the subway out the way but that is no big deal. Worth the trouble to get t-rex on the bench and repaired, lubed and adjusted there rather than cram you hands in a crowded playfield.

See this thread and note some of the issues I went through with mine.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/de-jurassic-park-refurb-for-my-army-son

e5702c3dc83234c5925f1b930347732d21291421 (resized).jpg

Thanks a lot man, got the t-rex out now!

I have been going through looots of pics in this forum trying to find close-ups of the switches, especially the up and down switches.

If anyone plz can take a photo of the up and down switches (while mounted on T-rex), it would be nice

Thanks!

OK, sitting and trying to adjust the Trex switches now. Would appreciate a quick answer: The up/down motor should only spin one direction, right? This means that it goes all the way around (circle movement) between the up and down switches, not forth and back between them?
So every time one of the switches is triggered, the motor has spun 360 degrees (well not the motor itself, but the "pin" that triggers the switch). Or am I wrong?

Can anyone verify my statement PLZ?
Thanks

Correct, the up/down motor only spins 1 way

Thank u all, t-rex is eating the balls now
However, i managed to create myself a new problem while removing the under-playfield ramp to get T-rex out. The ramp broke where it connects at the right VUK.

Plz if anyone could take a picture of that spot, I need to figure how the VUK switch should be in relation to the ramp (under the playfield)

Thanks!

Nothing?

Question to you all,

When the ball ejects from the bunker, does it do it consistently?
Mine sometimes hits the sling and rarely the end of the left flipper.
I find it incredibly hard to catch the ball from the bunker.

Can you stop and hold the ball when it comes down the right inlane after getting in the power shed or Rexys mouth? Or does it roll over?

I've got superbands and thinking of changing to Perfect play as I think it'll mean the ball bounces more?

This has the same reason as Jurassic Park, the 520-5033-03 board has a design flaw where the flipper won't work when EOS fails.
TftC and JP are the machines that used this board. When the 2 EOS wires are tied together, the flipper would work without the EOS switch.