(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club


By louknees

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,149 posts
  • 416 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 183 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,653 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_3100 (resized).JPG
IMG_3099 (resized).JPG
IMG_3096 (resized).JPG
IMG_3097 (resized).JPG
IMG_3095 (resized).JPG
IMG_3094 (resized).JPG
IMG_3093 (resized).JPG
IMG_3092 (resized).JPG
IMG_3470 (resized).jpeg
20191113_193626 (resized).jpg
jp-rubbers (resized).PNG
15731544016047818554563461197544 (resized).jpg
15731543029144165323966519385247 (resized).jpg
E309E618-4A50-4AA8-A796-FD7D507193B2 (resized).jpeg
3930A69B-6CA8-4AC1-AA6F-EE7EB5D3E906 (resized).jpeg
CC1D61D4-533D-4962-BD7B-0E172596ED56 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 7149 posts in this topic. You are on page 60 of 143.
#2951 2 years ago
Quoted from mbabischkin:

Page 52 of the manual indicates that this should be the location of the NM1 switch, and I could have sworn something used to be there... Now there's nothing

All Data East main CPU boards never had that switch installed.
Its only function is to assist technical help during board burn-in.

#2952 2 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

One piece of advice is always buy more bulbs than you need. Multiple shipping costs are not any fun because you're 3 bulbs short.

Yes this is good advice since if I recall I was a few bulbs short. Not by much, I was able to make do. But it's always nice to have extras on hand. You can always use those bulbs in other games, or try different bulbs in different areas. The extra bulbs also help if you're looking to place an order for a new game so you can mess around with color schemes and what not.

#2953 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Hello club - new member here! My local arcade at the Danbury Fair Mall in Connecticut had a new JP back in '93 which I played often and became a fan, making it a must have for me since I started collecting/repairing nearly 2 years ago.
I have been reading the entire club thread here since bringing home a great example from Free Play Florida last fall, but it is taking forever read it all. I have played with the back box colors a bit, making the logo green. I probably won't keep it that way, but It's fun to play around with LEDs.
You may also notice that my JP is taller than my TAF project. The legs on JP are too long, making it 2 inches taller than standard, and it's actually fun that way. THIS PIN IS T-REX SIZED along with the big DE back box, and fortunately I still have room for the NOS topper I found recently.
My question - When a ball really sails around the ramp, the diverter must be moving a little, and a ball that should go to the right inlane, often gets launched off the ramp, and I'm worried about breaking the ramp or something else with these airballs.
Is it common to replace or upgrade the diverter coil spring or is there another fix? I have inspected the diverter and it appears to be adjusted OK.
Thanks!

My two favorites side by side! TAFs are just so expensive

#2954 2 years ago

I have a question on the back box lights. The bulbs are good but none of them come on ever except for the 3 flashers that are behind the t-rex's head on the translite. Also I figured we need a picture of all the lights in the backbox on this thread as well.

IMG_3159 (resized).JPG

IMG_3160 (resized).JPG

#2955 2 years ago

Check the molex connectors to/from the backbox and look for burned connectors/pins. Those backbox connectors get hot and burn up after all of these years.

#2956 2 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I had issues with that diverter too. I strengthened up the coil spring, and still didn't fix it. What did fix it, was adjusting the diverter a little. It shouldn't be exactly flush with the right lane. Bring it up slightly. After I did that, I haven't had any issues.

I adjusted the diverter up to the point where a slow roller would just get through, but still getting fly offs. I ordered the spring shown in the manual from marco, but the one I received was not as long, so I just doubled them up. The diverter still works, but still getting fly offs.

I just noticed in the manual there is adjustment 33 coil pulse size. I changed that from normal to soft, since my flippers are very strong. (and louder then my other pins) Finally, it looks like the balls are staying on the rail. The lower flippers coils are labeled 090-5020-30 which appear to be correct.

#2957 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I adjusted the diverter up to the point where a slow roller would just get through, but still getting fly offs. I ordered the spring shown in the manual from marco, but the one I received was not as long, so I just doubled them up. The diverter still works, but still getting fly offs.
I just noticed in the manual there is adjustment 33 coil pulse size. I changed that from normal to soft, since my flippers are very strong. (and louder then my other pins) Finally, it looks like the balls are staying on the rail. The lower flippers coils are labeled 090-5020-03 which appear to be correct.

I've had some pretty solid fast shots up the ramp that still stay on the rails. If I remember, I'll take a photo of my diverter. I too still have double springs left on mine. But I know a slow roll that barely makes it around the ramp, will be deflected to the rails by the diverter. Just needs a split second more time to make it past.

#2958 2 years ago

Mine jumps off every once in a while. My flippers rip HARD though. Hard enough that the computer icon above the center scoop broke off.

#2959 2 years ago

Here's some photos of my diverter. Basically how I aligned it was to continue the path of the diverter to the general center of the bottom rail. Hopefully you can see in these photos.

But like I have said, I've had some rockets around the ramp, and haven't had a ball fly off since I've adjusted the diverter this way. Also, I do have double springs on the coil too.

2017-01-24 17.52.32 (resized).jpg

2017-01-24 17.52.11 (resized).jpg

2017-01-24 17.52.22 (resized).jpg

#2960 2 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Here's some photos of my diverter.

Thanks for the photos. I have have my diverter set about the same.

I will stick with the soft coil setting for now which seems fine, and work on more pressing issues.

#2961 2 years ago

Sadly I have sold my JP, thanks to everyone for the help and great postings to make my JP the best it could be.
Changing to the AMH club
Regards and all the best!

#2962 2 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Changing to the AMH club

Have fun with that zizzle.

#2963 2 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

Check the molex connectors to/from the backbox and look for burned connectors/pins. Those backbox connectors get hot and burn up after all of these years.

I checked all the connectors in the back box and they all looked good. Any other thoughts?

#2964 2 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

I checked all the connectors in the back box and they all looked good. Any other thoughts?

Could be a cold solder joint. For that, you'll need to figure out, or have someone else figure out the schematics of where those lights go.

I had all my flashers not working on my Laser War. Someone took a look at the schematics and told em to check the brown wire in a certain location. Sure enough, once I reflowed solder, flashers worked again.

#2965 2 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Could be a cold solder joint. For that, you'll need to figure out, or have someone else figure out the schematics of where those lights go.
I had all my flashers not working on my Laser War. Someone took a look at the schematics and told em to check the brown wire in a certain location. Sure enough, once I reflowed solder, flashers worked again.

I traced the lines for the back box bulbs to the power board. Where do I buy a new connector and the new pins for the board itself?

IMG_3203 (resized).JPG

#2966 2 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

I traced the lines for the back box bulbs to the power board. Where do I buy a new connector and the new pins for the board itself?

Yep, that's your problem alright! You can buy all the parts from www.greatplainselectronics.com

Specifically, https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37

Many people move to the Molex KK style (where you use terminal pins into a connector socket). Here's a good article if this is something new to you: http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/

#2967 2 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

Yep, that's your problem alright! You can buy all the parts from http://www.greatplainselectronics.com
Specifically, https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37
Many people move to the Molex KK style (where you use terminal pins into a connector socket). Here's a good article if this is something new to you: http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/

I think for right now I will just keep the connector the same style. I understand that this is an IDC connector but how do I figure out which size? Also on greatplains website I only can find this type of connector in kits. Is there somewhere that tells the part numbers of all the different connectors?

#2968 2 years ago

I find that doubling the connectors helps control the
burning problem with this types of connectors.

#2969 2 years ago

Just joined the JP club. Pretty fun game and looks great next to IJ. Now looking for TZ and TOTAN to round it out!

20170122_165644 (resized).jpg

#2970 2 years ago

Congrats on the new game. Great game to add your own mods to. You can get really creative.

#2971 2 years ago

I just created a facebook group for JP owners if anyone's interested...
https://www.facebook.com/groups/JurassicParkPinballOwners/members/

Like this thread, but maybe more potential like photo albums/tutorials whatever.
Pictures / Videos of your machine
Pictures / Videos of playing one
Show off your mods
Sell your Mods
Sell a Machine
Repair questions
Repair advice
??
New Group open to suggestions!

#2972 2 years ago

Hello JP Forum--after years of thinking about it, finally took the plunge and bought my first pin (JP) - which has been great and am having a lot of fun with it with my kids too. Can't get my middle son off it for long. I'm very happy with the pick and machine seems to be in very good shape, but a few minor items popped up that I was hoping somebody may be able to point me in the right direction on.
I've never owned a pinball machine before but am reasonably mechanical (I think - or at least will find out soon I guess).
I have two main issues that I'm trying to see if I can fix:
1) Since turning the machine on my T-Rex has been flawless (up/down/chomp/ball being swallowed)- which I was very happy to see; however, after putting 100+ games on it the T-Rex still looks to be doing everything right, but it doesn't actually eat the ball, It triggers correctly, lines up right and even goes down to eat the ball but the ball ends up just sitting in the saucer and getting kicked out. I am assuming that this is an issue with the magnet/solenoid maybe but don't even know where to look to check/test.
2) The left lower flipper sometimes goes "weak" either when hit by the raptor eject shot or even sometimes just in normal game play when setting up a hit when the ball drops down the left "safe" channel. I hit the left flipper button and the flipper reaction is sometimes weak or almost non-existent.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts help and glad to be part of the community!

#2973 2 years ago
Quoted from JP1993:

The left lower flipper sometimes goes "weak"

Check the wires on the end of stop switch on the flipper mech. They may be coming loose.

#2974 2 years ago

jp1993 I've had several issues with T-Rex over the years so I know him well. Is his head going all the way down to the saucer? If so, it could be one of two things:

1. Down switch is not activated. If you raise the play field, you'll see a series of switches surrounding T-Rex that let him know where he is positioned. He won't do certain things unless certain switches are activated.

Example: he can only bend down if the center switch is activated. Or, he will only chomp if the down switch is activated.

The other possible item and more likely issue is that the wire that goes from under T-Rex to the chomping coil/solenoid has been damaged from years of moving back and forth. This is quite common and mine was very hard to determine because you have to cut the sheathing that contains multiplied wires. One wire in the bundle was broken and I had to do in in-line solder to get it connected again.

Start with that and you should be able to find the issue.

Regarding the flipper, it sounds like an EOS issue. Search the forum or google and you'll come up with several topics regarding that.

Good luck!

#2975 2 years ago
Quoted from JP1993:

1) Since turning the machine on my T-Rex has been flawless (up/down/chomp/ball being swallowed)- which I was very happy to see; however, after putting 100+ games on it the T-Rex still looks to be doing everything right, but it doesn't actually eat the ball, It triggers correctly, lines up right and even goes down to eat the ball but the ball ends up just sitting in the saucer and getting kicked out. I am assuming that this is an issue with the magnet/solenoid maybe but don't even know where to look to check/test.

T-Rex repair secret!
Note: replacing the jaw solenoid wiring harness.
----- 1) Check your local electronics store for a two wire sheathed harness.
----- 2) When you replace the harness add a circular loop-de-loop (at the
----- hinge bend ). Yes, you will need to replace the screw head tie wraps.
----- 3) Finish dressing the wiring harness to the main base and use you IDC
----- tool to reinsert the new wires to the IDC connector.
----- 4) Reinstall T-Rex and test. ( make sure you have wire to connector
----- to wire continuity ).
----- 5) Finish installing T-Rex outer skins.

#2976 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

T-Rex repair secret!
Note: replacing the jaw solenoid wiring harness.
----- 1) Check your local electronics store for a two wire sheathed harness.
----- 2) When you replace the harness add a circular loop-de-loop (at the
----- hinge bend ). Yes, you will need to replace the screw head tie wraps.
----- 3) Finish dressing the wiring harness to the main base and use you IDC
----- tool to reinsert the new wires to the IDC connector.
----- 4) Reinstall T-Rex and test. ( make sure you have wire to connector
----- to wire continuity ).
----- 5) Finish installing T-Rex outer skins.

picture please!!

#2977 2 years ago

Just picked up a pretty nice JP! Stoked to be part of the club.

#2978 2 years ago

I was recently able to significantly lower my BOM cost on the Functioning JP Gate by redesigning the 3D parts so I can make them in house along with some other improvements that lower labor hours slightly. Due to this I will now be able to offer the function gate mod for $240 which includes free shipping.

Also because of some recent requests I will offer a static version of the gate mod that has the flickering torch lights. This version will be $110.

You can purchase either of these on www.timspinballmods.com

#2979 2 years ago
Quoted from outcida:

I was recently able to significantly lower my BOM cost on the Functioning JP Gate

God damn it, just when I thought I was done throwing money at my JP.

#2980 2 years ago

Thanks for the suggestions on my T-Rex/flipper issues--I am traveling for most of this week but will try out the suggested fixes this weekend and report back. Thanks for the help!
To clarify - he seems to do all the correct motions including going all the way down (in the right alignment) when the ball is in the saucer--he just doesn't pick it up (doesn't "close" his mouth around it), so the ball stays in the saucer and then gets kicked out. Even though he doesn't pick the ball up, he still raises up like he has it and chomps a few times too at the end. Seems like the issue is just not closing his jaws around the ball when it is in the saucer. Out of curiosity, is there a magnet/solinoid involved in this process or is it just mechanical closing of the mouth/jaws around the ball?
Thanks again!

#2981 2 years ago
Quoted from JP1993:

Thanks for the suggestions on my T-Rex/flipper issues--I am traveling for most of this week but will try out the suggested fixes this weekend and report back. Thanks for the help!
To clarify - he seems to do all the correct motions including going all the way down (in the right alignment) when the ball is in the saucer--he just doesn't pick it up (doesn't "close" his mouth around it), so the ball stays in the saucer and then gets kicked out. Even though he doesn't pick the ball up, he still raises up like he has it and chomps a few times too at the end. Seems like the issue is just not closing his jaws around the ball when it is in the saucer. Out of curiosity, is there a magnet/solinoid involved in this process or is it just mechanical closing of the mouth/jaws around the ball?
Thanks again!

No magnet in the t-rex mouth. Just solenoids for chomping.

#2982 2 years ago

Hey all. I am proud to say that I now am an owner of JP. It even mostly works! I just got it this weekend and am waiting on some new pinballs to arrive before I really run it.

I do have an issue with the T-Rex jaw bracket. The bracket is completely loose from the jaw and I don't know how to reattach it. Clearly there's some sort of screw/nut but I don't have it.

Would anyone be so kind as to post a photo or explain what I need to fix this? I'm pretty handy but just trying random parts from my toolbox hasn't worked yet.

Thank you!

IMG_5689 (resized).JPG

#2983 2 years ago

jp1993 That issue is exactly what I had - it's the wire. His jaw works fine when he's upright but half way down it separates and stops working.

#2984 2 years ago

Yes I have figured out the wire problem, I just can't figure out how to reattach the jaw to the main body of the Rex. I have the bracket. Trying to figure out what screw/nut I'm missing or something. Here are pics.

IMG_5694 (resized).JPG

IMG_5696 (resized).JPG

IMG_5695 (resized).JPG

#2985 2 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

I think for right now I will just keep the connector the same style. I understand that this is an IDC connector but how do I figure out which size? Also on greatplains website I only can find this type of connector in kits. Is there somewhere that tells the part numbers of all the different connectors?

That's funny, this is exactly the same issue I'm fixing on me JP tonight.

I have a question about the Data East power board. I was going to fix a burned up header and noticed the back side of this board looks pretty weird. All wavy. Did this thing overheat? Also is it normal to have that bridge rectifier not mounted directly to the board? This is only my second pin and I'm bumbling my way through electronics repair. If this repair doesn't work, what are my options for drop in replacement boards on JP?

IMG_3867 (resized).JPG

#2986 2 years ago
Quoted from Time:

back side of this board looks pretty weird. All wavy.

In my experience, some boards just do that, and continue to function with no issues.

#2987 2 years ago

Learned tonight the in lane lamps "Lite ADV X" and "Lite Dock" are wired to GI. When I discovered this I thought my machine is funky. Thats kind of strange no? But that seems to be what the book says and youtube videos of others machines show the same thing.

Been have a problem with GI. I changed the molex connector on the switch board and cleaned the headers. Got some extra GI working but not everything. Such a bummer. Really thought I'd have my JP working tonight. Thinking I'll try changing the header pins tomorrow night.

#2988 2 years ago
Quoted from Time:

Learned tonight the in lane lamps "Lite ADV X" and "Lite Dock" are wired to GI. When I discovered this I thought my machine is funky. Thats kind of strange no? But that seems to be what the book says and youtube videos of others machines show the same thing.
Been have a problem with GI. I changed the molex connector on the switch board and cleaned the headers. Got some extra GI working but not everything. Such a bummer. Really thought I'd have my JP working tonight. Thinking I'll try changing the header pins tomorrow night.

Yep, those are GI.

#2989 2 years ago
Quoted from Time:

That's funny, this is exactly the same issue I'm fixing on me JP tonight.
I have a question about the Data East power board. I was going to fix a burned up header and noticed the back side of this board looks pretty weird. All wavy. Did this thing overheat? Also is it normal to have that bridge rectifier not mounted directly to the board? This is only my second pin and I'm bumbling my way through electronics repair. If this repair doesn't work, what are my options for drop in replacement boards on JP?

Here is a picture of part of my connector welded to the old pins. Everything is new and working great now and all my GI started working, everything in the back box and the back part of the PF also!

50769626557__5CF6CDAD-55D5-4570-BB46-EB44DB46748F (resized).JPG

IMG_3277 (resized).PNG

#2991 2 years ago
Quoted from dearliza98:

Yes I have figured out the wire problem, I just can't figure out how to reattach the jaw to the main body of the Rex. I have the bracket. Trying to figure out what screw/nut I'm missing or something. Here are pics.

I think you may need to order a new bracket http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-6640-00
At the very end there should be a tiny 90 bend of metal that inserts into the jaw as shown below and it seems like it's gone judging by your pictures. It's also a little bit of a pain to get inserted into the jaw.
I would also bet that if that bit of metal broke off that the hole in your jaw isn't a nice circle and most likely a bored out square.
When I took my T-Rex apart for repair I noticed the little bend on the bracket has a "pinched/hourglass" look to it from all the usage cycles in addition to the jaw being worn out a good bit.

Edit: Also your captured ball is looking pretty sketchy. I'd get all new balls too if you're ordering from Marco

535-6640-001 (resized).jpeg

#2992 2 years ago
Quoted from dearliza98:

I just can't figure out how to reattach the jaw to the main body of the Rex

Your tab is broken that fits into the hole in the jaw!

#2993 2 years ago
Quoted from JP1993:

Hello JP Forum--after years of thinking about it, finally took the plunge and bought my first pin (JP) - which has been great and am having a lot of fun with it with my kids too. Can't get my middle son off it for long. I'm very happy with the pick and machine seems to be in very good shape, but a few minor items popped up that I was hoping somebody may be able to point me in the right direction on.
I've never owned a pinball machine before but am reasonably mechanical (I think - or at least will find out soon I guess).
I have two main issues that I'm trying to see if I can fix:
1) Since turning the machine on my T-Rex has been flawless (up/down/chomp/ball being swallowed)- which I was very happy to see; however, after putting 100+ games on it the T-Rex still looks to be doing everything right, but it doesn't actually eat the ball, It triggers correctly, lines up right and even goes down to eat the ball but the ball ends up just sitting in the saucer and getting kicked out. I am assuming that this is an issue with the magnet/solenoid maybe but don't even know where to look to check/test.

2) The left lower flipper sometimes goes "weak" either when hit by the raptor eject shot or even sometimes just in normal game play when setting up a hit when the ball drops down the left "safe" channel. I hit the left flipper button and the flipper reaction is sometimes weak or almost non-existent.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts help and glad to be part of the community!

1) Go into diagnostics and once at the T-Rex diagnostics make sure that when you bring him up and down and verify that the display says the proper switches are on and off. You can also test the bite by pressing the trigger if I remember correctly. It most likely will involve the down switch not registering properly or perhaps something wrong with the coil/bracket/jaw that makes the bite function.

Edit from the manual:
T-REX Test This test shows the status of all the switches on the t-rex mechanism, and provides motor control when the appropriate switches are properly adjusted. To move the creature left and right, use the left and right flipper buttons. Note: The t-rex top switch must indicate ON to allow left and right movement. To move the creature up and down use the start button. Note: The t-rex center switch must indicate ON to allow up and down movement. When adjusting the center switch Do not bend the actuator, loosen the mounting screws and re-position the entire switch. Operating the trigger switch should pule the jaw coil.

2)I would check the end of stroke switch as sometimes a weak flipper can be tied to a bad connection at the EOS. Visually inspect the wires soldered to the tabs of the EOS switch and give them a good wiggle and tug. If it feels sketchy don't be afraid to desolder, clip the end, strip a fresh bit of wire and resolder.

Also make sure the EOS leafs are adjusted properly. JP's EOS switches are setup in a normally closed position meaning at their resting state the two contacts should be touching with decent preload. If you manually flip the flipper you should see both leafs move for a moment before separation and there should be approximately a 1/8" gap at fully flipped.

#2994 2 years ago

timewarp1 vec-tor

Thank you both for the info. Believe it or not, a guy I work with had an extra brand new bracket! I will be trying to fix it this weekend but the pin that attaches it to the plunger looks like it might be tough. We'll see.

I just got 10 new pinballs today and will be giving JP a whole new set. Thanks again!

#2995 2 years ago

OK I have almost the entire playfield done on the under side. The control room scoop isn't working and I found a broke off sire from the switch. There isnt a diode on this switch and I am pretty sure that it got knocked off with the wire. I have some and need to make sure that a diode is needed on that switch and if I have the right part. Thanks as always. Full pictures of the shopped and ledded out JP to follow soon.

IMG_3285 (resized).JPG

IMG_3281 (resized).JPG

IMG_3284 (resized).JPG

IMG_3286 (resized).JPG

#2996 2 years ago

Got an NOS stock topper off Ebay. I notice is has a lip around the back edge, so when I install it, it may lean forward about 10 degrees.

What is the proper way to mount it? Let it lean forward? Put some shims or washers underneath so it is perpendicular with the top of the back box? Use extra shims so it's perfectly vertical?

IMG_2416 (resized).JPG

#2997 2 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

I have some and need to make sure that a diode is needed on that switch and if I have the right part. Thanks as always. Full pictures of the shopped and ledded out JP to follow soon.

There was a service mod that had the diode on a circuit board "L"
bracket thingy that had jumper wires that went back to the switch.
I doubled the diode and used hot glue to fix.

#2998 2 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

Everything is new and working great now and all my GI started working, everything in the back box and the back part of the PF also!

Discovered I was just terrible at pressing the wires through those pass through connectors. Didn't help my $5 Harbor Freight digital multi-meter's continuity check wasn't testing continuity properly. Discovered that after wasting 45 minutes chasing nothing. But did eventually find I had some real connectivity issues. Guess I don't have the right push down tool for those pass through connectors. Some connections were very unstable. Really jammed them in and got all my GI working. I think I'll be fighting those connections later though. Wish I would have ordered Molex with crimp pins. I'll know what to order next time.

IMG_3868 (resized).JPG
IMG_3869 (resized).JPG

Previous owner put red and blue LED GI lights facing the T-REX. I kind of like it. They were heat shrunk to the connector which I thought was odd. Not sure how common that is but I removed it and added reflectors instead. Reflectors do nothing with the LED light but guessing the machine would have originally had those.

#2999 2 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

OK I have almost the entire playfield done on the under side. The control room scoop isn't working and I found a broke off sire from the switch. There isnt a diode on this switch and I am pretty sure that it got knocked off with the wire. I have some and need to make sure that a diode is needed on that switch and if I have the right part. Thanks as always. Full pictures of the shopped and ledded out JP to follow soon.

The diodes for those switches are probably mounted remotely. Follow the wire and find the diode board mounted to the playfield directly.

#3000 2 years ago

Does anyone know when the topper lights illuminate during the game? I get the flashers to work during diagnostics but there are three bulbs between the two flashers that never seem to come on and they should be working. Just trying to figure out if I have a problem or if I'm just not noticing them light up. Thank you!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 150.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Rock Custom Pinball
3,500
Machine - For Sale
League City, TX
3,000
Machine - For Sale
Geneva, OH
$ 90.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 29.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
3,800 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Luling, LA
There are 7149 posts in this topic. You are on page 60 of 143.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside