Quoted from C65Mustang:OK I got my east dock sign together and installed. What do you guys think about it? Thanks again to RussMyers for making these files!
Are you willing to make another one to sell?
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Quoted from C65Mustang:OK I got my east dock sign together and installed. What do you guys think about it? Thanks again to RussMyers for making these files!
Are you willing to make another one to sell?
Quoted from mbott1701:Installed mirror blades in my game.
Side note: I ordered them from Pinball Side Mirrors. I ordered their "extreme mirrored black," as I thought it would look good with darker mirrors. From what I can tell they sent me regular mirrored ones. PSM's customer service is lacking and they were very slow to reply to my inquiries and I never got a satisfactory answer about the wrong style being sent. Just something to consider if you decide to ordered from them.
Anyway, the blades still look pretty good in game, I think, so I'm moving on.
Here are some pics...
What is the screen you have mounted on the playfield?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-jurassic-park-owner-needs-help
I had the same issue, just needed to bend the the actuator arm a little, works perfectly now.
Hey Guys,
I'm having an issue with one of my flippers, the right one. It will be fine for a few games, then it will start to not fire. The flipper will move a littel when the button is pressed, but looks like it is struggling and will not actually fire. I have cleaned the the leaf switches with a business card, and have taken off the glass and manully moved the flipper when using the switch and eventually it will work again. My question is, is there anything I can replace to make the flipper more reliable? What do I need to check to start troubleshooting this issue?
Thanks for the help, sorry if this is a super noob question.
,Matt
Quoted from Neal_W:The problem is not the flipper switch, it is the end of stop switch mounted on the flipper mech. Probably the wire is coming loose.
Checked all the wiring and re flowed solder on all contacts. Checked the fuses on the flipper board. I did notice that the LED on the flipper board that corresponds with that flipper does not light up when activating the switch, but the other two (the upper flipper and left bat) do.
Pulled out the board and all the contacts look ok, really scratching my head with this one.
Quoted from mbott1701:Did you check the fuse clips when you had the flipper board out?
I had the same problem and it was a loose clip that was the problem. Common issue with data east fuse clips.
I'll pull the board off and reflow the solder on the fuse holder and report back.
Quoted from TimeWarp1:If that doesn't work I think you may have encountered a very similar if not the same exact issue as me. My post on it is here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/have-you-had-a-pinball-that-you-cannot-fix/page/2#post-3521258
The bulletin I refer to can be found here:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb54.pdf
Thanks for this, I feel like the board is my problem, I'm not sure how confident I am in my abilities to modify it according to the SB, so I may just buy the updated board.
Quoted from TimeWarp1:If that doesn't work I think you may have encountered a very similar if not the same exact issue as me. My post on it is here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/have-you-had-a-pinball-that-you-cannot-fix/page/2#post-3521258
The bulletin I refer to can be found here:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb54.pdf
New board installed, and flippers working great again!
Anyone in need of an original flipper driver board that is in need of modification according to SB54?
Quoted from yoyokopter:Hi, here a vidéo of my Mods for Jurassic Park , for the hole of the Jurassik Park to replace the naughty lamp holder
» YouTube video
» YouTube video
WOW, very cool
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:Had seem serious issues on my JP.
Game started to act very weird in middle of game, display garbage, coils random energizing, lamps overbright, starting to boot, etc...
Found out the power supply was only giving me 3V instead of 5V. Hence the CPU acting so weird.
Rebuild all connectors (power connector, gi) and new fuse clips, no change
Changed capacitors C2 en C3 and voila good 5V again.
A lot of fuses got bad on the PPB board. Replaced all of them and everything booted and played ok, unfortunattely didn't notice the raptor kicker was being locked on.. so a burned fuse again but also a melted coil.
Replaced the TIP36 transistor and installed a new coil and game is correct on 50V coils and flippers again.
Other problem:
Column 8 lamps don't work at all anymore except for the one in row 7 (extra ball arrow) and row 8 (smart missile x2).
Found out pretransistor Q56 for the ramp column was shorted and a hot TIP42 main transistor. So now waiting parts and will replace the TIP42, the obvious broken pretransistor and also the ic that drives the columns. All lamp wiring looks ok on column 8. But I think I will have shorted diodes too on those 2 lamps.
But we will see what the transistor replacement does towards the lamp matrix.
How a bad power supply can damage all the rest...
^ This sucks, hopefully you can get all the gremlins chased down!
Quoted from Lonzo:I need a little help from you guys that have an assembled JP in front of you.
Some of you may be following my thread on my full JP restoration.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-restoration
I am in the process of cleaning the screw holes of clear coat before assembly and I have ran into an issue. On the left out lane, my machine did not have a metal post with a ring on it. It appears that nothing was ever installed there but the dimple for the screw is there. I have seen pictures that show a post installed and other that look like mine. The manual calls for a ring at that location and it appears in the drawings on both sides. Just trying to get an idea if there is supposed to be a post there. I don't want to clean the hole out and then realize there isn't supposed to be a post there.
Thanks for the help.
I'm pretty sure there was not a post there from the factory, although there was a pilot hole was drilled, I personally have added a post with ring because I felt the balled drained out excessively without it.
JP for sale in San Diego, CA if anyone is looking for one.
Quoted from Bhieken:My ceiling is too low for the topper , so we improvise.
Bhieken Would you be interested in selling your topper and light reflecting bracket?
Quoted from Chalkey:Today I DESTROYED my previous high score. SO CLOSE to 1 billion!!!
Nice!
Quoted from Rensh:Installed a RasPiSound system today. Interesting product. Works like pinsound but at 1/3 of the cost. However, pinsound is much more plug and play as this one. If you are not a hobbyist Pinsound is better choice.
If you are a DIY guy like me who likes to fiddle and considers that a part of the hobby this is an option.
Where did you find this?
Quoted from Geteos:After much fiddling with vinyl decals and waterslides I was able to finish off two of the projects this evening.
Presenting the T-Rex Box (w/top) and the Stun Gun![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This is very cool work.
Quoted from Geteos:Yup, just waiting on some of the flasher bulb holders from Macro then I'll have 5 of the T-Rex boxes ready to go. Hopefully sometime next week.
I can sell them without the bulb holder right now if people are willing to take out the existing bulb holder from their game (requires you to drill or grind it out of the metal box).
I'll work on getting a pinside store set up tonight to host all the items. They're going to be listed at (USD) $65 for the T-Rex box ($60 w/o the bulb holder). $40 for the gun topper. I'll also put up my JP static gate for $100 and some palm trees with bases for $5/each. Shipping is going to be $15 for North America (tracked/insured). Outside NA it'll be whatever the actual rate Canada Post charges me. You can combine any of the items for the same flat rate.
I'm still working on the electric fence. Now that I have some decal paper I'm going to add something to make the wire area a bit more interesting. I'm also waiting on some #555 sockets to allow it to wire up to the Electric Fence mode without having to modify anything on your game.
No brainer buy, you can count on me for a box and gun once the shop is up.
Quoted from Geteos:For all those interested in my gun launcher and T-Rex box mods, I have completed my first small run (4 of each item) and have them posted in my pinside store which is now live.
Thanks!
Cool hopefully there is some still in stock come payday.
Quoted from Geteos:For all those interested in my gun launcher and T-Rex box mods, I have completed my first small run (4 of each item) and have them posted in my pinside store which is now live.
Thanks!
Just ordered! Glad to see your inventory is getting bought up!! Congrats on the successful mods.
Quoted from Geteos:Put the final touch on the electric fence. The 10,000 volt sign makes it complete.[quoted image]
Does it light up?
Quoted from jugood20:The control room on my JP doesn’t always register. So I went ahead and purchased a new switch thinking that would solve the issue. Installed it today and still having the same issue. I noticed that if the ball goes slowly into the control room, there is no issues. It seems to be only be happening on certain shots ( maybe going in too fast and not registering the ball)? anyone else have or had this issue, and any ideas how to solve it?
Did you adjust the wire roll over, I was having the same issue, the wire needed to be sent up slightly.
If anyone is looking to join the club, there is a very nice looking JP for sale on FB right now, not mine, just thought I would share.
Quoted from ZAuxier:Hey there, was just getting a game or two in with my JP machine this morning and during a game my bottom right flipper just stopped working . The upper right flipper is working just fine, but nothing for the bottom one.
I went into diagnostics really quick and it's registering the Right Flipper switch. Not sure if it should be registering two switches, one for the bottom and one for top - but the immediate switch seems to be working just fine?
Before I pull the playfield up and start taking a look, anyone have any ideas on what could be happening here?
Funny, this exact thing happened to me yesterday, am going to diagnose later this evening.
Quoted from Daditude:Here are some pics of just a few of the mods I am selling:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
PM Sent
Hey guys, sorry if this has been answered, but I couldn’t find it. I decided to finally pull the trigger and get a color DMD for my JP. My question is if I am able to use the LCD version over the LED one? Has anyone been able to do it? What do you have to do? Do you need additional HW to make it work? Thanks in advance.
Can anyone who has installed the LCD send me some pictures of what they had to cut to get the panel to fit?
Quoted from scootss:Not exactly a pic, but here's the instructions from Color DMD.
https://www.colordmd.com/Assembly%20for%20Instructions%20Data%20East%20Plastic%20Speaker%20Panel%20Rev5.PDF
I *think* the LCD version was first, hence these official instructions. But now that the LED is out, that is their officially supported version for JP.
Thanks!
Well, it finally happened, my T-Rex is failing the pick up the ball, looks like it may be closing the jaw early and not able to get around the ball, the jaw fires when doing to boot test, we’ll need to dig into and see what I can figure out. Any advise on first places to look?
Hi guys, I’m trying to figure out a part number for playfield lighting board circled in the attached photo. I think there is a short in mine that is causing lighting issues on my machine. I know it will probably be unobtainium, but also interested if anyone has or knows the whereabouts of a replacement.
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