(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club


By louknees

5 years ago



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There are 7149 posts in this topic. You are on page 35 of 143.
#1701 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Crickets....
Im working like mad for the next few weeks, I may have a moment to mess with machines in the future, but nothing planned.
Any one want to throw around the idea that i blew something when i put the cpu rom in the wrong spot? I cant think of any other reason why it would just stop working at that moment.

Did you get this figured out yet? I had a guy come out to look at my raptor pit and it turned out the wire to the coil had come off. Why did I not see this (the most OBVIOUS solution known to man)? Because there was a clear plastic sleeve holding the wire right at the point of connection to the coil, making it look as if the wire was still connected! I pulled the sleeve off and boom, there is the disconnected wire. So frustrating, but glad I got my raptor pit firing again!

Hope this helps.

#1702 3 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Did you get this figured out yet? I had a guy come out to look at my raptor pit and it turned out the wire to the coil had come off. Why did I not see this (the most OBVIOUS solution known to man)? Because there was a clear plastic sleeve holding the wire right at the point of connection to the coil, making it look as if the wire was still connected! I pulled the sleeve off and boom, there is the disconnected wire. So frustrating, but glad I got my raptor pit firing again!
Hope this helps.

No, not yet. Im on the road for work until the 21st. I pulled the plastic over the pit and the wires looked fine to me too. Just odd it was working fine up until I messed with the ROMS. I plan to reseat the connector associated with the coil and see where that gets me. If not, Ill pull that plastic again and check the wires. Such a PITA though with my palm trees, lol.

Got a few things wrong with my JP, kind of down on it right now. Raptor pit, my A hole isnt working again to start modes,probably just a switch adjustment again, the ramp switch always seems to come loose so you cant score jackpots, AND I have some kind of power issue that I need to replace the bridge rectifiers. I havent had a good weekend where I could get all this done.

#1703 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Congrats. Welcome! Is that the one that's been up on ebay for a while? I see it's got the clear pop bumpers, says smart bomb, and has a spot to put a rubber bumper on the wireform (something I wish mine had). Can't be too many of those lower productions around.

I don't think so. The lady said it hadn't been used in years and she didn't seem like the type to have an ebay ad...
Thanks,
Jim

#1704 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

No, not yet. Im on the road for work until the 21st. I pulled the plastic over the pit and the wires looked fine to me too. Just odd it was working fine up until I messed with the ROMS. I plan to reseat the connector associated with the coil and see where that gets me. If not, Ill pull that plastic again and check the wires. Such a PITA though with my palm trees, lol.
Got a few things wrong with my JP, kind of down on it right now. Raptor pit, my A hole isnt working again to start modes,probably just a switch adjustment again, the ramp switch always seems to come loose so you cant score jackpots, AND I have some kind of power issue that I need to replace the bridge rectifiers. I havent had a good weekend where I could get all this done.

That's a bummer. My RoboCop has had weak flippers ever since I had the CPU board serviced (battery acid, yuck). Had a guy out to look at it (and fix some other issues that I'm not knowledgeable enough with) and after 3.25 hours, he threw his hands up and said, "your guess is as good as mine!"

Frustrating when our toys don't work the way we want them to!

#1705 3 years ago

Ya man. I feel like any time I fix or adjust one thing it messes up another. Drives me nuts. Some times I wanna sell all my machines and get back into cars, lol. I cant die playing a pinball machine though....

#1706 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I cant die playing a pinball machine though....

Where is the fun in that?

Now that I have my collection mostly where I want it, I'm getting back into my camaro myself.

#1707 3 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

Where is the fun in that?
Now that I have my collection mostly where I want it, I'm getting back into my camaro myself.

I sold my play car to fund my T2. Never looked back. Greasy hands and cars breaking down on the road were something I wasnt into any more. We will see. Kinda want a mini cooper classic...lol, totally different class of car.

#1708 3 years ago

EDIT - so fixed my missing ball message. Moved the cord underneath linked to the ball tray and it fixed it. Must have been the position. all good.

#1709 3 years ago

Anyone have pinsound card for JP? Wonder if it makes a big difference. I have the card for gnr and it's awesome but JP doesn't have that much music and would really just want the original score.

#1710 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Anyone have pinsound card for JP?

Wasn't really familiar with Pinsound, so I looked it up. They have a list of all the SFX used in the game down below on the JP page. I think they misheard one speech SFX. "Love your butt"

http://www.pinsound.org/pinballs/data-east-r3/jurassic-park/

#1711 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

EDIT - so fixed my missing ball message. Moved the cord underneath linked to the ball tray and it fixed it. Must have been the position. all good.

You probably have a short or weak solder joint, then. Make sure the wires weren't rubbing on anything that would cut the insulation of the wires.

#1712 3 years ago

image_(resized).png

#1713 3 years ago

DERP! Lol....I am not a fan, sorry.

#1714 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

DERP! Lol....I am not a fan, sorry.

What, you think you've got one that looks better?

It's a commendable DIY effort.

#1715 3 years ago

Looks awesome!

#1716 3 years ago

Piper, I applaud that fact that you're brave enough to even mess with your Rex. I'm afraid to touch mine after seeing horror stories about how they don't work again when people start messing with a perfectly working Rex for some reason. I've thought about repainting mine, but she's working so she's being left alone for now. Did you repaint your Rex's neck piece?

#1717 3 years ago

Yeah, it looks better than stock, that's for sure.

#1718 3 years ago

Any one got pics of how they prop their playfield when they work on it? Not like straight up, but when you pull it out towards the coin door. There arent any brackets on mine l, id like some rails or something. Would make it so much easier to do work on it.

#1719 3 years ago

Mone didn't have any legs either. Just proper it up on the coil bracket that kicks the ball to the shooter lane. Hating doing so, but was all that I had. I've now reinstalled new prop legs. Mantis I think is what they're called.

#1720 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Any one got pics of how they prop their playfield when they work on it? Not like straight up, but when you pull it out towards the coin door. There arent any brackets on mine l, id like some rails or something. Would make it so much easier to do work on it.

Over the top bungee cord, clipped to playfield bracket.

576f0e5416316cbc9b5f59253ce9d199312af6fb_(resized).png

Edit: Oops, misread. Not straight up. My JP has brackets.

#1722 3 years ago

Mine has a prop leg, and if I need it pulled forward I rest it on the coil bracket.

#1723 3 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

The best thing I did to my JP was to replace all the insert lamps with Comet warm white non-ghosting LEDs. Really freshened the look of the machine. I also added a superbright RED under the TRex saucer tied into the nearby TRex lamp - looks awesome! I left the GI as incandescent as the warm glow is my preference.
Good luck!

Mark,
Did you replace the eject cup with a clear one or is the red light strong enough to shine through the original plastic?
Thanks,
Jim

#1724 3 years ago

Jim, I left the the original plastic saucer. Superbright bulb is plenty strong to keep its color - nice and bright.

#1725 3 years ago

Speaking of lifting the playfield... Has anyone ever tried to make the playfield pivot? the metal "leg" on the playfield that slides on the metal rail is pretty close to the same as the pivot on my Williams Road King table. Seems to me if you mount the same "socket" inside the cabinet it would work as a pivot point. Just a thought. Picture is of my RK pivot

2016-02-11_10.15.31_(resized).jpg

#1726 3 years ago
Quoted from jim5six:

Speaking of lifting the playfield... Has anyone ever tried to make the playfield pivot? the metal "leg" on the playfield that slides on the metal rail is pretty close to the same as the pivot on my Williams Road King table. Seems to me if you mount the same "socket" inside the cabinet it would work as a pivot point. Just a thought. Picture is of my RK pivot

It does pivot, actually. There's a bungee bolted to the bottom of the cabinet and an eyelet on the bottom of the playfield to connect it to so it stays upright.

#1727 3 years ago
Quoted from jim5six:

Has anyone ever tried to make the playfield pivot?

Laser War had a single pivot point. When I got JP I was confused how it worked, and after learning all the ways you can pull the playfield out, I actually like it better. You can reach the stuff at the very back of the playfield better when you pull the playfield out, and the tilt it up. As opposed to just the single pivot point where the back to the playfield is in the bottom of the cabinet. But also serves a great purpose for working on stuff close to the front of the playfield.

#1728 3 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

It does pivot, actually. There's a bungee bolted to the bottom of the cabinet and an eyelet on the bottom of the playfield to connect it to so it stays upright.

Oh...Ok I will check that out thanks. I have the bungee and the eye bolt but that seems like a hell of a stretch on that little bungee...

#1729 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Laser War had a single pivot point. When I got JP I was confused how it worked, and after learning all the ways you can pull the playfield out, I actually like it better. You can reach the stuff at the very back of the playfield better when you pull the playfield out, and the tilt it up. As opposed to just the single pivot point where the back to the playfield is in the bottom of the cabinet. But also serves a great purpose for working on stuff close to the front of the playfield.

Ok thanks, sounds like its just different and I will get used to it. thanks for the reassurance!
-Jim

#1730 3 years ago

So its the set of two with the rings at the bottom right? CAN you put a full set of rails on the machine? I had a woz for a while and man was that a sweet system to work on.

#1731 3 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

It does pivot, actually. There's a bungee bolted to the bottom of the cabinet and an eyelet on the bottom of the playfield to connect it to so it stays upright.

Figured out the Bungee, thanks! that is much better. Question, do you leave it connected or unhook it when you lower the table. I think i will unhook it to relieve tension but I was wondering what the original intent was.
thanks again!
Jim

#1732 3 years ago

bungee probably won't even allow the table to go flat. When I unhook mine, I make sure that the bungee is clearly laying on the bottom of the cabinet. Don't ever get into a rush, because I can see myself hooking some wires and ripping them off.

#1733 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Any one got pics of how they prop their playfield when they work on it? Not like straight up, but when you pull it out towards the coin door. There arent any brackets on mine l, id like some rails or something. Would make it so much easier to do work on it.

I had the same issue, the original ones had broken off before i bought it. I bought new from mantis and just screwed them in using wood screws.

#1734 3 years ago

Thought I include this here too. Everything was good and then this : (

If the ball hits my left flipper while in the held/cradle/lift position at the right angle with fast speed it will cause the flipper to automatically fall down, resulting in a drained ball. No idea why this is happening as the flippers have plenty of power - it's just in this specific position (while held) if the ball hits the end point it causes this. If it hits the flipper with full speed while held but in the middle of the flipper or somewhere other than the farthest end (so far right part of the left flipper), it's fine....

#1735 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

So its the set of two with the rings at the bottom right? CAN you put a full set of rails on the machine? I had a woz for a while and man was that a sweet system to work on.

right, this one: http://www.mantisamusements.com/pics3/DEsupportbracket.jpg

Quoted from jim5six:

Figured out the Bungee, thanks! that is much better. Question, do you leave it connected or unhook it when you lower the table. I think i will unhook it to relieve tension but I was wondering what the original intent was.
thanks again!
Jim

yeah, have to unhook it. It is a bit of a pain.

#1736 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thought I include this here too. Everything was good and then this : (
If the ball hits my left flipper while in the held/cradle/lift position at the right angle with fast speed it will cause the flipper to automatically fall down, resulting in a drained ball. No idea why this is happening as the flippers have plenty of power - it's just in this specific position (while held) if the ball hits the end point it causes this. If it hits the flipper with full speed while held but in the middle of the flipper or somewhere other than the farthest end (so far right part of the left flipper), it's fine....

Maybe the end of stroke switch isnt wired? My jp had the wires to the eos switch cut when i bought it.

#1737 3 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Maybe the end of stroke switch isnt wired? My jp had the wires to the eos switch cut when i bought it.

Thanks but the flippers worked fine before so don't believe that's it.... : (

EDIT - looked into this end if stroke concept and it def sounds like it could be related. Question is how do I check for this...
Taken from a previous topic:

What end of stroke does do you for you is this. If you are holding up the flipper and the ball smacks into it hard, with end of stroke, the ball may move the flipper down and the system will know that because EOS is not triggered to send another pulse to reposition the flipper all the way up. Without EOS, the only symptom will be that if you are holding a flipper button in and the ball smacks it, the flipper may drop down until you press the flipper button again.

I think I need to bend the EOS to make it work better - question is in what direction?

#1738 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

I think I need to bend the EOS to make it work better - question is in what direction?

You can manually actuate the flipper from above and see what it's doing for the EOS switch and get a feel for which direction, if any, it needs to be bent. It may also need to be cleaned... or maybe a wire has come loose or any number of issues.

#1739 3 years ago

Thanks - I actually just did that and just so I understand how this switch works.

With no button pressed (just stationary flipper position) the switch appears to make contact (the two pieces touch each other). When I press the flipper button, this red piece will eventually move and push one part of the switch away from the other so they no longer make contact. When you release the flipper the two will touch again.

What is exactly happening here? For example, when the two touch does that mean full power is in the coil and when they separate the coil goes into low power mode so if I were to hold the flipper it doesn't burn it out? If so, I think bending the one part when the flipper is in the hold position towards the other should enable the two to touch quicker which should shoot more power into the flipper so it stays. The problem is that it might cause a flipper "flip" as the higher power is kicking in all at once at almost causes it to flip by itself.

If someone can explain how it should be so I can bend it so it matches, that would be helpful.

#1740 3 years ago

OK I fixed it with adjusting it based on this thread. It's very helpful - distance of the two is pictured as well (EOS Switch):

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/3

#1741 3 years ago

just curious of what coils people are using for home use only flippers on this machine? Part number would be helpful and if it's the stock coil or if it's less or more powerful than stock.

#1742 3 years ago

Stock, but don't know the coil # off the top of my head.

#1743 3 years ago

I just happen to be working on the underside of my playfield right now.

My Left flipper coil is 090-5020-30. The right one is a different make, and it either doesn't have the coil number printed on it, or its on the under side. But guessing it's the same. My Upper Flipper coil is 090-5020-20.

2016-02-14_15.44.46_(resized).jpg

2016-02-14_15.45.17_(resized).jpg

2016-02-14_15.44.53_(resized).jpg

#1744 3 years ago

Ahhhhhhh. Big sigh of relief. I think I've made my machine bullet proof. Ever since I got the machine, it's had VUK issues. The seller warned me that it may happen from time to time. The very first thing I did when I got the machine was rebuild the VUK. Which cause me a lot more issues because I installed the diode backwards. But kinda glad it happened, because I am now much more comfortable and familiar with the machine.

But even after the VUK rebuild, it was still having issues. I just blamed it on the angle, and possibly the after market subway mounting hack job. The plastic tabs had broken off, and someone added metal bands to replace it. Little did I know, THAT was the issue. I thought it was because the height wasn't exactly perfect. No, it was the damn rivet they used to hold the metal band in place. I didn't even notice.

they used a total of 4 rivets. But 1 was different than the others. It was a little thicker, and after taking a closer look, I saw that it was bunched up. Like a ball had been striking it. Damn it! That rivet was causing two issues. Making it fail a launch 50% of the time, and kicking it back towards the subway when the ball fell, which wouldn't give it enough momentum to roll back to the VUK.

So I took the subway off, and took my Dremel to that rivet. And after a 30 or so tests, it never failed once.

Done. *Drops Mic*

#1745 3 years ago

so once out of maybe 100 times T rex eats the ball, the ball somehow manages to fall and miss the subway ( i presume) and falls into the bottom of the cab. Anyone else have this issue ever? I think I may be missing a support bracket or something on the subway. I'll take some pics later and see if anyone can verify if i am or am not missing some hardware.

#1746 3 years ago
Quoted from InfiniteLives:

so once out of maybe 100 times T rex eats the ball, the ball somehow manages to fall and miss the subway ( i presume) and falls into the bottom of the cab. Anyone else have this issue ever? I think I may be missing a support bracket or something on the subway. I'll take some pics later and see if anyone can verify if i am or am not missing some hardware.

Hi IL,

I never have this issue on my JP. Below are a couple of photos of what my subway under the T-REX looks like.

Gord

DSCN3444_(resized).JPG
DSCN3442_(resized).JPG

#1747 3 years ago

Does your subway have a thin sheet of plastic covering it? It's supposed to have a chute connected to it, which is probably why the ball misses the subway.

Its hard to see from Gords photos if you don't know it's there.

#1748 3 years ago

So I'm definitely missing the screw, I'll have to check the manual and see what it is. Is there any bracket with that screw/post. Thanks guys. And yeah, my subway has the plastic on top.

14555842226911681225456_(resized).jpg

#1749 3 years ago
Quoted from InfiniteLives:

So I'm definitely missing the screw,

Ah. Yep. Sorry, I just had mine off yesterday or I'd measure the screw and the spacer. But that looks like that's all your're missing. Guessing, I'd say that the screw is 1 1/2in long, and the spacer is 1in. But couldn't tell you thread.

#1750 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Ah. Yep. Sorry, I just had mine off yesterday or I'd measure the screw and the spacer. But that looks like that's all your're missing. Guessing, I'd say that the screw is 1 1/2in long, and the spacer is 1in. But couldn't tell you thread.

Hi IL,

This may help you out. As you can see the spacer is 3/4" and the screw is 1-1/4".

Gord

DSCN3581_(resized).JPG

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