(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

10 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

59 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (10 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (10 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (9 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (9 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (9 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (9 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (9 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (9 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (9 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (9 years ago)


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#7344 4 years ago

Finally was able to join the club a few days ago after picking up my JP Machine! I was lucky enough to jump on one that was in a family basement for just over 20years. I went through the audit tables and found it had around 1700 total balls played and not one System Failure. Hoping to be the one to eventually make it!

Playfield is immaculate, and everything else seems to be in great working order, just needs a little cleaning. Also, can't wait to brighten it up with some LEDs!

Only issue I'm currently having is sometimes the T-Rex will pick up the ball, but not swallow it. It just hangs out in his mouth while the game tries to find it. Pretty frustrating, but I've only had it for 48hrs so far.

IMG_20200205_202810 (resized).jpgIMG_20200205_202810 (resized).jpg
#7346 4 years ago

So I've been working alot on the machine lately, cleaning and fixing minor issues and came across this bungee in the middle of cabinet base. One end is connected to the cabinet but the other end is loose. Any idea what this is used for?

Maybe it's a thing on all machines, but this being my first one makes me wonder a bit.

IMG_20200208_125257 (resized).jpgIMG_20200208_125257 (resized).jpg
#7360 4 years ago

Hey, can anyone tell me what bulb types are used in the red T-Rex lights on the apron? I'm 90% sure they're 44/47, but just want to confirm before making my order.

I'm currently not a home, which is why I can't just do down and check

#7362 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

#44 bayonet

Thank you!

#7373 4 years ago

Morning all! I've searched through this thread and am wondering if anyone has seen or experienced this issue I'm seeing with my game. During attract mode, when the lights are moving around the playfield, I hear a faint buzz that almost seems to move with the lights. It's also happening duing actual gameplay, but with all the sounds and everything it's way less noticible.

I just picked up the maching last week and initially thought it was just the old incandescent bulbs actaully making the sounds themselves, but last night when I was working on the playfield I realized that it's actually coming form the down firing speaker in the bottom of the cabinet.

Does anyone know what might be causing this, and how I can remedy it? For what it's worth, I will be converting to full LED (minus flashers) within a week or two, so maybe this will help?

#7375 4 years ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

It's normal. LEDs wont change it.

Just came across a thread referencing the "Data East Hum". Guessing this is what I'm hearing?

#7392 4 years ago

Hey there, so I've owned my JP maching for a little over 2 weeks now and have been spending a bunch of time trying to dial it in as much as possible. I've only ever played one of these machines out on location before, so I have a couple questions about how the game "should" play in order to help me get it back in proper shape.

1. When launching the ball into the pops, I'm finding that frequently it's draining right down the middle, an average of around one ball per game. Since updating the code to 6.0, the increased ball save has helped with this - but for the inexperienced player it seems a little unforgiving? I'm wondering if this was "by design" or if there's something going on with my machine to cause this? For what it's worth, my pops are all fairly active (sometimes the left one doesn't always activate) and I have my machine set at a 6.5degree incline.

2. I've read on this forum that it's normal to have the a hole above the left inlane/outlane where a post normally would go. My machine doesn't have a post there, but it does have a mini bare metal post above the right inlane/outlane. Is it normal for the mini-post not to have a rubber? I've read people adding it, but am wondering if that's considered stock and maybe mine just fell out?

#7395 4 years ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

Make sure the game is level side to side. It still happens from time to time but probably shouldn't happen once a game but it does happen, nudging is your friend, I was at 730 million last night going into ball 3 and it went SDTM out of the pops twice, game over...
The post didn't fall out, I think all JP have that hole there but no post although there is some debate whether or not some had the post from the factory.
It's totally up to you if you want to add one.

Got it! I'll make sure it's level horizontally, but appreciate the confirmation that it indeed DOES happen and is meant to. I'm also going to leave the rubbers off the right post. I'm terrible at nudging right now, and thinking that it'll help me learn, especially with a machine finally in the home.

It's pretty cool having a fellow JP owner in the Twin Cities area. I think there's a few of us around here, but it's looking like you have quite the collection. My high score is currently around 200k, so I've got a ways to go score-wise.

Quoted from softail:

This is a common issue.
First, go into Trex diagnostic mode and press the launch trigger : this shoid normally activate the jaw, but I presume that it won't do in your case.
So, power up the machine and shut the power when the Trex is bent. U now have access to 2 screws in the back of tRex' neck. Remove these screws.
You'll see a grey lead. The insulation is probably broken somewhere, so that the wires inside sometimes make contact but loose contact when the Trex is bent.

Appreciate the follow-up on this. I took apart Mr. T-Rex last weekend and found there was alot of slop in the jaw and the piece that connects down to the coil. Alot of it was from the connection hole being warn out. As a temporary fix, I put a thin zip tie in there to close some of the gap, and it seems to be working pretty well so far. Thank you all!

#7409 4 years ago

Hey there, I'm curious what you all set as your replay score and award within a home environment? After upgrading to 6.0, mine was set around 200M, which I since lowered to 150M. I currently have the award set at "CREDIT", which obviously means nothing on free play so I'm thinking about switching this to "EXTRA BALL". The only thing stopping me is that I kinda feel like that's cheating?

What do you all have setup?

#7419 4 years ago

Just got my FIRST system failure tonight! If that classifies as a "wizard mode" then it's my first of the hobby as well. WOOOOOOOOOOOO!

Not an amazing score (339M), but what an awesome feeling!

#7421 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

It is cool, isn’t it?

System Failure is definietly cool, the machine looking like it's completely powering down is fun, but the 5-10(ish)min journey to get to System Failure was the highlight for me. The pressure of hitting those last couple scoops was nuts.

Now, if I could only hit the ramp with the same level of accuracy...

#7431 4 years ago

Hey JP friends, I'm wondering if anyone has noticed some pretty loud rattling or rumbling with the cabinet whenever the shaker motor fires? I notice this most during the Smart Missle, and also when T-Rex eats the ball.

I've walked around the cabinet while it's happening and it almost sounds like it's rattling somewhere underneath or behind the backbox? It's defintiely loud rattling that I don't really notice while playing on other machines that have shakers installed. I also tried testing the shaker while holding down the playfield main glass, and can confirm that it's definitely not the culprit.

Any ideas?

#7436 4 years ago

Is there a safe or easy way to test the shaker motor while the playfield is up? I don't remember seeing anything in the diagnostic mode.

#7440 4 years ago
Quoted from newovad:

Shaker Test is in the diagnostic mode. It is in with Flash Lamp / Coil test. The shaker will barely function in that test mode, however. I believe it is just a single pulse. Nothing like it is in game.

You're right, it was totally just a little "pfft". Oh well, I guess I can live with the rattling.

1 week later
#7462 4 years ago

Anyone have an issue where after launching, the ball goes smoothly through the gate but doesn't always "engage" the pop bumper on the left? About half the time, maybe more, my ball just touches the pop on the left, then falls straight down, usually SDTM.

I tried cleaning the contacts on the pop bumper a bit, but am wondering if this needs a full rebuild?

#7464 4 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

clean the dust out of the spoon part too.

Interesting, never really considered that? I have some compressed air, should I spray it under the skirt on top of the playfield, or below?

#7480 4 years ago

Last night I finished the total conversion of my JP machine to LEDs. Some parts were a huge pain, such as the smaller target inserts and taking off the ramp to get to some of the GIs, but I really enjoyed going through it all and giving it a nice clean.

I ended up going with Comet Frosted Warm White 1SMDs for the GI/Backbox, and frosted colored 1SMD inserts for most areas. The end result looks pretty stunning in person. My first few games I played with the lights off in the room and it almost gave me a seizure...you know, in a good way

Everything is working great, except for the 6 #906 bulbs that I replaced under the ramp. I went diagnostics and during the flash test found that only one of the red ones is lighting up. I figured it might be how it tests, so I played a few games and didn't notice anytimes where the other bulbs light up? Wondering if there's something going on, or maybe I bought the wrong bulb with incorrect voltages or something? Here's what I used to replace it (https://www.cometpinball.com/products/5smd-flashers).

JP with LEDs (resized).jpgJP with LEDs (resized).jpg
#7483 4 years ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

Looks good!
It may be that they are not seated right, take them out and make sure the contact wires are spread towards the outside edges of the bulb base.
Those twist in sockets can be a little picky as to where they line up.
A "G.I. gizmo" will help with the strobing of the lights, those old Data east and sega games are kind of intense with the flashing.

I don't think it's a result of them not being seated correctly, because all other twist in sockets are working fine in the other areas of the game. I have some leftover 1SMD warm white (non-ghosting) LEDs that I could try a few places to test. Would there be any concern with doing that in this area?

#7488 4 years ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

They just need to be toward the outer edge of that channel.[quoted image]

Thanks for the tip, I'll give that a shot tonight!

#7489 4 years ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

It's not the twist socket itself, its how the contact wires of the bulb make contact with the twist sockets contacts.
I always spread them out when I do new LEDS or else some won't work.
The flashers under the ramp are 906 base bulbs so they wont fit anywhere else in the game to test.
Just pull one out spread the wires toward the outer edge of the bulb base, put it back in and put it in flasher test to see if it works.
I think some bulbs are polarized as well so you may just need to flip them around.

FIXED! It was the polarity, just needed to flip em around and now everything is allll good. Thank you!

#7499 4 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

In my case, the hole in the jaw were the link connects appeared worn. I looped a small black tie wrap through the top of the hole to remove the slop, and get TREX back on his normal diet.

I did the exact same thing with mine about a month ago, and so far it's been holding up nicely.

1 week later
#7547 4 years ago

Hey there, was just getting a game or two in with my JP machine this morning and during a game my bottom right flipper just stopped working . The upper right flipper is working just fine, but nothing for the bottom one.

I went into diagnostics really quick and it's registering the Right Flipper switch. Not sure if it should be registering two switches, one for the bottom and one for top - but the immediate switch seems to be working just fine?

Before I pull the playfield up and start taking a look, anyone have any ideas on what could be happening here?

#7550 4 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Like the poster above said, check for a broken wire to the flipper coil.
If that's not it, go into diagnostics switch test, lift the playfield, and manually close the flipper switch contacts for both the lower and upper flippers separately. Make sure each are registering.

Yep, wire came off. Soldered it back on and adjusted the other wire as well considering it looked like it was about to fall off too. "Mr Hammond, I think we're back in business!"

1 month later
#7744 3 years ago

I've had my machine for about three months now and am figuring it out pretty well. High score is around 450MM and I've gotten system failure a few times.

The one thing I cant really figure out yet is what to hit with the stinking right flipper? From the left I can reliably hit the bunker, the ramp, and the boat dock - but with the right I usually end up going for the raptor pit, or bunker as well (maybe). I've tried backhanding the ramp and it is possible on my machine, but it's really difficult to do.

I guess I could just get better at hitting the control room and bunker, but am curious what other tips or strategies are out there?

#7761 3 years ago

Curious if anyone has tried to hit the smart missile during system failure?

4 months later
#8316 3 years ago

Hey JP friends!

So I had a few friends over the other weekend, and the youngsters we're having a ton of fun playing with the machine. After they left I played a few games and noticed that the right flipper just didn't seem like it had the same "juice" as it did before? I tried it again the next day and still it's just not nearly as strong as the left one.

Both flippers still rest in the proper spot, but when I hold the buttons in on both, the right one just doesn't nearly go as high as the left. See pictures.

Is there something I can adjust or fix to help with this, or am I better off doing a full flipper rebuild? Appreciate the help!

IMG_20201007_112716~2 (resized).jpgIMG_20201007_112716~2 (resized).jpgIMG_20201007_112721~2 (resized).jpgIMG_20201007_112721~2 (resized).jpg
#8318 3 years ago

I checked the coil stop, and it looks just fine - no missing rivets or anything. It's slightly punched in but nothing that I think would cause this kind of issue. Also, if this was the culprit, wouldn't that mean the left flipper would be the one that's working incorrectly, as opposed to the right one which isn't feeling right?

I did notice that the small black rubber stopper that the flipper rests on while it's resting on the "notched" coil stop (when the flipper is down) seems to be incredibly warn down. I'm wondering if replacing this would help because the flipper wouldn't be traveling as far?

1 week later
#8339 3 years ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

The right flipper would be sagging lower than the left at rest if the rubber was the culprit.
Both flippers have "coil stops" so the left flipper has nothing to do with it.
The coil stop is the piece that the plunger hits when its engaged. The piece that it rests on is not a "coil stop".
Rebuilding the flippers on an old game is usually not a bad idea anyway, I can probably help with that but you should check all parts on the right flipper and make sure it operates smoothly by hand.

After continued tweaking with the flippers, I think a full rebuild just makes the most sense. I know the previous owner had it for almost 20 years, and while it didn't get a TON of play, the flippers definitely weren't rebuilt at any time.

I've done some digging in this thread, and am seeing that the kit by Macro Specialties (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-6306-20) seems to be a good option. I'm also going to grab some rubber grommets (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5105-00), as mine are mostly shot. I noticed the kit doesn't include new coils, should I be picking up these as well? Anything else that would be beneficial to replace (flipper wise) while I'm rebuilding them?

#8348 3 years ago

So while attempting to install a new post on the far left pop number, I think I'm realizing that my machine isn't exactly "stock" when it comes to this part of the playfield.

I've done some looking at other pictures for comparison, and it seems like all other machines only have one post at the left of the bumper and not a SECOND one on the right like mine does? See picture for the hole where it gets installed.

I'd like to have my machine as stock as possible, so I am thinking of not re-installing it, but I'm worried about the ball hitting the screw hole and acting erratic? Also, from a visual standpoint it looks kinda janky with the a hole just sitting on the playfield like that. Pretty bummed about it, but am trying to think of ways to remedy this. Any tips from fellow JP owners?

PXL_20201109_213929008 (resized).jpgPXL_20201109_213929008 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#8400 3 years ago

So I just rebuilt my flippers, using the kit from Marco Specialties. Highly recommended, I feel like I can now consistently hit the ramp!

After replacing, I found that some of the insert lights seemed to be lighting incorrectly. Examples include the spitter mode and electric fence lights working simultaneously, along with the top brachiosaurus target and "x" from T-Rex lighting up together as well.

Looking through the manual, it appears that row 3 and row 4 of the lamp matrix table seem to be the culprit here. Any ideas on how to fix this, or what is happening? I'm wonder if I bumped a wire or something while soldering the wires back to the flippers.

Any help is much appreciated!

#8404 3 years ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

So I just rebuilt my flippers, using the kit from Marco Specialties. Highly recommended, I feel like I can now consistently hit the ramp!
After replacing, I found that some of the insert lights seemed to be lighting incorrectly. Examples include the spitter mode and electric fence lights working simultaneously, along with the top brachiosaurus target and "x" from T-Rex lighting up together as well.
Looking through the manual, it appears that row 3 and row 4 of the lamp matrix table seem to be the culprit here. Any ideas on how to fix this, or what is happening? I'm wonder if I bumped a wire or something while soldering the wires back to the flippers.
Any help is much appreciated!

Any help or tips on this?

My right bottom flipper also just stopped working . Top right still works fine, but I spot checked the connections and everything appears to still be soldered on.

1 week later
#8455 3 years ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

So I just rebuilt my flippers, using the kit from Marco Specialties. Highly recommended, I feel like I can now consistently hit the ramp!
After replacing, I found that some of the insert lights seemed to be lighting incorrectly. Examples include the spitter mode and electric fence lights working simultaneously, along with the top brachiosaurus target and "x" from T-Rex lighting up together as well.
Looking through the manual, it appears that row 3 and row 4 of the lamp matrix table seem to be the culprit here. Any ideas on how to fix this, or what is happening? I'm wonder if I bumped a wire or something while soldering the wires back to the flippers.
Any help is much appreciated!

Any tips with this? I've managed to fix the other issues, but ROW 3 and ROW 4 are lighting at the same time, when only one should be lit. Example includes the 2 ball and Raptor Pit white lights both glowing simultaneously, when only one should be lit during raptor rampage mode or when 2 ball is available.

#8458 3 years ago
Quoted from jamex:

After 2 games the problem came back, I cleaned the eos switch again and it got back to working regularly, the problem is on that switch

Curious if your problem with the switch has continued? I'm having the exact same issue with my right flipper EOS switch, it is registering as open when it's clearly closed while the flipper is down.

Is cleaning the contacts my best bet?

#8461 3 years ago
Quoted from jamex:

Hi, on the previous page you will see that I solved the problem by making the change to the flipper board as indicated, a few posts before, by zaza

Ahhhh my bad, thanks for the heads up. I just installed new switches via the flipper rebuild kit from Marco, so I'm thinking it's not the actual switch itself that's causing the problem here. I'll look into the board.

1 month later
#8531 3 years ago

I recently completed a rebuild of my flippers, and the game plays sooooooo much better, highly recommended! I do feel like when the flipper is up, it's not trapping the ball like I used to?

They're aligned to the holes, just like last time, but it's definitely not as easy to catch the ball like it has been in the past. Maybe this is by design, but wondering if there are any tips for helping?

Pic included

PXL_20210214_210656017 (resized).jpgPXL_20210214_210656017 (resized).jpg
#8541 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

With the new coil stops that are not warn down, the distance the flipper travels will be less, so they stop a bit lower. No harm in adjusting the flippers up a bit if you want.

Ahhhh, figured that was the case, just was hoping there was a way to adjust the flippers while keeping the alignment with the holes. I guess the positive is that it'll help me get better at doing live catches!

1 month later
#8651 3 years ago

Last night while playing the sound kept randomly getting really quiet, almost like a very "tiney" sound. Initially it sounded like it was only one speaker playing, but I checked the others (including the under cabinet speaker) and everything was indeed still playing audio, it was just very quiet and without any midrange or bass to it.

It kept going in and out, so I'm hoping there's a loose connection somewhere that's causing the issue. Any tips?

1 week later
#8663 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Reset connectors.
Look closely at the caps on the sound board.
My sound went wonky and disappeared. I had one bad cap on the board.

That totally worked such a simple fix! Thanks for the recommendation.

2 months later
#8779 2 years ago
Quoted from somenerd:

Hi all, just joined the JP Owner's Club this past weekend! I'm absolutely stoked; been dreaming of owning one of these machines since I was 10 years old! Still in a slight state of disbelief. Bought the one posted for sale in the marketplace from "stealyourface," was such a pleasant transaction and he was a super cool guy.
First impression when I went to pick it up was "Man, this machine is TALL. Will it even fit in my basement??!" Thankfully I shortened the lengths on the leg bolts by a couple inches before setup, and it fits, with maybe a couple inches worth of clearance between the head and my floorboards.
Love the game; been playing it so much since I got it home. One question for the rest of you, though- is it always so "jumpy"? Feels like I'm getting airborne balls left and right and don't want to destroy the playfield if I can avoid it. Wondering if it's an issue with my setup/levelling, or if it's related to flipper strength, or something else...?
At any rate here's a pic of her all set up next to my Paragon, which now feels absolutely dwarfish in comparison:
[quoted image]

I was getting a ton of airballs after installing new Titan rubbers on my machine about a year ago, but I think this was more related to my flippers being off, which was sending the ball a little too hot.

I've since done a full flipper rebuild (highly recommended), and don't see as many airballs now. I still get a few, especially when I miss the ramp shot, but nothing like a saw a year ago.

7 months later
#9136 2 years ago

Wondering if anyone can help with a lamp matrix issue I'm having. Some of the insert lights seemed to be lighting incorrectly. Examples include the spitter mode and electric fence lights working simultaneously (when only one should be lit during a mode), along with the top brachiosaurus target and "x" from T-Rex in the apron lighting up together as well.

Looking through the manual, it appears that row 3 and row 4 of the lamp matrix table seem to be the culprit here. Any ideas on how to fix this, or what is happening? I'm wonder if I bumped a wire or something while soldering the wires back to the flippers.

Any help is much appreciated!

3 weeks later
#9156 2 years ago

I'm sitting at 6.8. Ramp feels perfect right now, still needs a clean shot to make it all the way up.

#9161 2 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

The only two shots I can't consistently get are the ramp and through the poppers to orbit.

I don't even shoot the orbit shot because of how difficult it is for me.

If I need to feed Trex and I'm on the right flipper, will just shoot the control room, get on my left flipper for a boat dock to then (hopefully) nail the saucer.

If that all goes smoothly, there's no better feeling in the game.

4 weeks later
#9190 2 years ago

Need a bit of help in replacing the T-Rex jaw link using a new part from Marco.

I'm good on how to take ole Rexy apart, but does anyone know how to take this pin out so I can install the new link? It's the short, darker colored bar in the picture.

PXL_20220408_004742800 (resized).jpgPXL_20220408_004742800 (resized).jpg
#9192 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

That's a roll pin. If you look closely, you will see that one side may be a little smaller than the other. Squeeze the smaller side with pliers and push it out or tap it out after squeezing it. There are probably some Youtube examples of removing roll pins online.

Perfect, appreciate your help!

1 week later
#9214 2 years ago

Seems like this thread is being resurrected a bit, so want to bring up a small issue I've been having with my JP recently.

The issue is relating to a few insert lights. The problem is they appear to be misfiring, i.e. turning on when they shouldn't be. Examples include the spitter mode and electric fence lights turning on simultaneously, along with the top brachiosaurus target and "x" from T-Rex lighting up together as well.

Looking through the manual, it appears that Row 3 and Row 4 of the lamp matrix table (attached) seem to be the culprit here. Whenever a light from one row is supposed to be on, the corresponding light from the different row also turns on. Any ideas on how to fix this, or what is happening?

c7ded99c1652e4785f3e94a4aecdab4f882772b7 (resized).pngc7ded99c1652e4785f3e94a4aecdab4f882772b7 (resized).png
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Duke Pinball
 

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