Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:Hmm, wonder where I start to figure out why these 3 flashers are dead. Also, all 3 of my non-flashers are always on.
I have some that stay on too....not sure how many. Ill look if i get it setup this weekend.
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:Hmm, wonder where I start to figure out why these 3 flashers are dead. Also, all 3 of my non-flashers are always on.
I have some that stay on too....not sure how many. Ill look if i get it setup this weekend.
Quoted from NFK:Yes. To me it looks more like the fence from the movie and gives the game an "emergency feeling" when lit IMO.
That's a cool idea for a mod. My issue with it is that it won't feel like it might have come from the factory like that — but that's just my criteria for a mod.
When I came up with my scoop mod idea it was sparked by a combination of things:
1) disliking the bare sleeved bulbs that look unfinished and don't communicate anything to the player
2) noticing in System Boot mode that the creators had designed icons to represent each of the three scoops. To my mind there's no reason to go to the effort of designing icons for the scoops that appear only on the DMD and don't link back to anything on the playfield. I felt strongly that there would have been some intent there to add these icons to the playfield/plastics in some way but was perhaps cut for cost reasons
So I added them back in and make the game look more finished and have those lights actually mean something to the player and the rest of the art/design of the game.
This isn't me trying to defend my mod — if you're not a fan, that's cool! I just thought I'd add my thoughts about how it came to be
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Just a bent piece of metal. Mines rusty as hell.
Mine was too, and so are many others I've seen. I decided to take mine off because I felt it was obscuring the view of the bottom of the topper.
Quoted from accidental:Mine was too, and so are many others I've seen. I decided to take mine off because I felt it was obscuring the view of the bottom of the topper.
Interesting...ill consider it.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:I have some that stay on too....not sure how many. Ill look if i get it setup this weekend.
Hah, just checked again. 2 of the three lamps are bad. Looks like all THREE lamps should stay ON.
Glad I popped into this thread
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Interesting...ill consider it.
I removed the reflector from my JP this week. No topper, nor room for one in my low-ceiling finished basement. My reflector was not rusted at all... I wanted to see the lamps and flashers. I'm planning to replace the top lamps with Yellow and Orange LEDs. ...or color changing LEDs.
Quoted from markp99:I removed the reflector from my JP this week. No topper, nor room for one in my low-ceiling finished basement. My reflector was not rusted at all... I wanted to see the lamps and flashers. I'm planning to replace the top lamps with Yellow and Orange LEDs. ...or color changing LEDs.
Color changing???
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Color changing???
My three center lights are color changing. I don't like them. One of these days I'll put green ones in there.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:I have some that stay on too....not sure how many. Ill look if i get it setup this weekend.
Yesterday I noticed a hacked connector leading to the flashers in the backglass. Anyone know if the 3 flashers I am talking about are connected to these flashers?
Quoted from NFK:Yes. To me it looks more like the fence from the movie and gives the game an "emergency feeling" when lit IMO.
Hmm...I've never thought about them as being the fence from the movie. I'd still rather have the scoop mod, but I do like the originals better now.
Quoted from accidental:That's a cool idea for a mod. My issue with it is that it won't feel like it might have come from the factory like that — but that's just my criteria for a mod.
When I came up with my scoop mod idea it was sparked by a combination of things:
1) disliking the bare sleeved bulbs that look unfinished and don't communicate anything to the player
2) noticing in System Boot mode that the creators had designed icons to represent each of the three scoops. To my mind there's no reason to go to the effort of designing icons for the scoops that appear only on the DMD and don't link back to anything on the playfield. I felt strongly that there would have been some intent there to add these icons to the playfield/plastics in some way but was perhaps cut for cost reasons
So I added them back in and make the game look more finished and have those lights actually mean something to the player and the rest of the art/design of the game.
This isn't me trying to defend my mod — if you're not a fan, that's cool! I just thought I'd add my thoughts about how it came to be
This is why I actually like the mod...although like I said in my video I am usually very "anti-mod" and like to keep my pins stock besides LED upgrades. I like the scoop icons because before I didn't really notice the lights flashing above the scoops but now when they light up yellow, green, or a combination of both from behind the mods I seem to pay more attention and notice the goal I need to try and achieve when its flashing.
Quoted from markp99:I removed the reflector from my JP this week. No topper, nor room for one in my low-ceiling finished basement. My reflector was not rusted at all... I wanted to see the lamps and flashers. I'm planning to replace the top lamps with Yellow and Orange LEDs. ...or color changing LEDs.
So the top of my JP doesn't have a topper and just has the lights on top...there was a reflector that is supposed to be on top?? Any pics for reference?
Need some help, cleaning up a JP and like most games I found all kinds of parts in the cabinet. Only two parts I really need someone to advise if there is a place for them and then there is the gate that diverts the ball when coming down the lucid ramp along the left side.
1. Start with the gate, can someone shoot me a picture of the long post that support the plastic ramp that is right by the gate? There was a screw that came through the playfield that attached to a hex post and that is it. The screw was actually in the bottom of the cabinet and jut the hex post was holding the ramp up. Is there anything else to this support of just the screw through the playfiled into the hex post and then to the ramp?
2. There is a very small (7/16") grey post (spacer) laying in the cabinet. This is like the small posts that support the platform below T-Rex but is there a place where a third one goes?
3. Lastly, there is also a 1" grey post (spacer). Unlike all the other ones that are (I think) 1 1/6th or 1 3/16th (cant remember and not in front of the game) mostly supporting the plastics around T-Rex
Appreciate the input!!!
Quoted from jjoravec:Anyone know where to get the white bulb covers that are on top of the backbox?
This looks like it, but not sure if exactly the same...
Quoted from meSz:Need some help, cleaning up a JP and like most games I found all kinds of parts in the cabinet. Only two parts I really need someone to advise if there is a place for them and then there is the gate that diverts the ball when coming down the lucid ramp along the left side.
1. That long post is attached with a screw and flat washer from the underside of the playfield. There is another screw and star washer on top attaching the ramp, as well as that horizontal metal member - per this photo.
2. There is a ~7/16 grey plastic spacer where the subway attaches via the ~3" screw to the base of TRex. I've not bumped into another spacer on the underside.
3. As you note, the only topside grey plastic spacers are the 1-1/4" ones supporting the plastics around TRex/Egg/Ratptor. There are ~4 of them around there as far as I can tell.
Hope that helps.
Quoted from ChadH:Need to get my hands in a Hook. Know anyone near me with one who is willing to lend?
If you find a Hook, the service menu has several issues...
Quoted from markp99:1. That long post is attached with a screw and flat washer from the underside of the playfield. There is another screw and star washer on top attaching the ramp, as well as that horizontal metal member - per this photo.
post.png
2. There is a ~7/16 grey plastic spacer where the subway attaches via the ~3" screw to the base of TRex. I've not bumped into another spacer on the underside.
3. As you note, the only topside grey plastic spacers are the 1-1/4" ones supporting the plastics around TRex/Egg/Ratptor. There are ~4 of them around there as far as I can tell.
Hope that helps.
THANKS Mark .... it helps!
Picked up my first JP a couple of weeks ago. I replaced the DMD, which is easy enough. The left/right T-Rex motor was more of a challenge. I just got the assembly back together and reinstalled, and the new motor works like a charm. I'd recommend that anyone whose T-Rex left/right motor (the gears, presumably) is shot go ahead and replace it. Definitely worth the effort and expense.
Starting to work on my list of fixes in prep for my TRex. Ordered new support brackets. Mine only came with one installed. And of course I fudged it up, and ripped it out on accident.
Below is a photo of my underplayfield. I am having a hard time trying to figure out where I should mount them. I don't really see any perfectly even spots. With the 4 holes for the upgraded Mantis Amusements brackets, it's limiting spots they can go. But you can see the drill holes for my old one on the left, next to the left outlane switch. It ripped up a bit of the underside wood. But if you look across to the right, I don't see any holes where that one would have been mounted at. There are a couple hole that look like pilot holes, but doesn't look like anything was screwed in.
Anyone have the Mantis legs installed? Can you share a photo of where you mounted yours?
Also, I'm guessing this subway has been modified? The metal mounting brackets look like they were added. Especially since one looks like it has a worn out checker pattern on the inside. I'm having a problem with the VUK, that sometimes it will miss a shot, and the ball will roll back to the middle of the subway and not have enough angle to roll back to the VUK. It will just stay stuck in the center. The first time it happened, I looked all over for the missing ball. It vanished. Took me about 10 minutes to think about checking the subway. I use a magnet to pull it back to the VUK. I need to try and figure out how much more I can make the end lower without running into the VUK and stopping it from catching the ball.
There is no metal bracket on my subway. My JP will very rarely miss a VUK return on the right hand side, but will follow immediately with a good shot. Probably just poor alignment of the ball on the plunger.
This evening I did just re-install the stock playfield support bracket that I found in the coinbox when I got this machine. The screws were ripped from the plywood. Looking at your photo, the BLUE circle is were mine was ripped from the plywood. The RED circle is where I relocated the bracket, just to the left of the lamp socket.
When I compare to the position of the right-side bracket, this seems to be a more symmetrical location, more closely matching its vertical position. I'm happy with this position. There is ample room in this new location for a four screw bracket.
One point to note - in this location there is potential for interference with assemblies inside the cabinet, just above the tilt bob. My first attempt, slightly left of this current location would have landed on that stuff. Glad I did not get past the first pilot hole before test fitting. In its current location , I miss that stuff by a good ~1/2 inch.
I'm not sure about a Mantis style bracket. Not sure where the other end might land.
Quoted from woody24:I am having a hard time trying to figure out where I should mount them. I don't really see any perfectly even spots.
The new ones should fit perfectly where the old ones were. Just fill the stripped out holes with wood glue and toothpicks or skewers. Also, one of the holes is where a bolt from the top side comes down through the pf through a t-nut and goes through the support bracket. The bracket is secured to the bolt with a nut.
I think there are pictures in this thread where support brackets were discussed previously.
If you have not attached the bracket by wednesday ill be back from vacation and will take some photos of the mantis brackets installed. But i basically did what winteriscoming said. For two holes i just screwed the screw straight into the wood.
I'll have to take a look at spacing. But I messed the old one up because I moved the tilt up about 1/2in in the cabinet because it was previously ripped out. The support kept hitting it when the playfield was lowered. I tried the bend the support just enough to clear the tilt, but ended up ripping it off the playfield. I guess I'll have to re-fill and reposition the tilt back lower in its old spot if I want to keep the left brace in the same spot.
Also, I don't think the subway is affecting how VUK kicks up the ball. I think I have two issues going on. The VUK works about 80% of the time on the first try. And of the 20%, it usually is able to re-kick it back up about 10% of the time. But every once in a while, when the ball goes back down, it get bounced back into the subway, to which it doesn't have enough angle to roll it back to the VUK. My playfield is set to 6.5 degrees. So it has to be the angle at which the subway is mounted. Which is probably due to the hack of the mounting hardware.
I have an idea to the 20% missed first shots. I try to look at other people's VUK wireform, and I see one thing different with mine. I seem to have about 1/8th inch spacer/washer between it and the playfield. It doesn't block the hole, but wondering if by lifting the wireramp up that much, it's causing the ball to hit the wireramp in a awkward spot towards the bend, causing it to come back down. Might be a good use for the iPhone 6's slow mo camera. But will have to invite a friend over for that, because I have an android that simulates slowmo.
Heh. Talking to myself this morning.
Picked up 4 Cliffy posts rubber at the Chicago Expo. They didn't have black, so I picked up grey/silver. But man, what a difference from them to the Super Bands posts. It completely deadens the shot. Only played a test game on it, but the ball doesn't seem like it will have a chance to jump completely over the pop bumpers once it hits those.
But still having jumping issues with the other Super Band rubber I have in the game. Even during this test game, I had a ball jump over the flipper and drain. That rarely happens.
Quoted from jjoravec:Any idea if anyone is going to reproduce Ramps and plastics for Jurassic Park in the near future?
Highly unlikely. People have been asking for a long time.
Quoted from jjoravec:Any idea if anyone is going to reproduce Ramps and plastics for Jurassic Park in the near future?
Sounds like plastics may be a possibility:
Reached the 500.000.000 today. With 2 Tri-Ball in one game and a System Failure. This is the first time I ever lite 2 Tri-Ball in one game without using the Smart Missile.
...The new code is awesome!
BTW found this and thought it would be great mod if this is on the "Shoot T-Rex when lite" sign next to the T-Rex:
Quoted from NFK:Reached the 500.000.000 today. With 2 Tri-Ball in one game and a System Failure. This is the first time I ever lite 2 Tri-Ball in one game without using the Smart Missile.
You're probably just thinking about shooting those dino targets now - we didn't change any of how it gets set up the second time through Neat though, definitely good game! Knocked my initials down if not out
Quoted from NFK:BTW found this and thought it would be great mod if this is on the "Shoot T-Rex when lite" sign next to the T-Rex:
Thats pretty cool. Didn't the raptor cage at the very beginning of the movie have those type of lights on them? Would be a cool mod to design a cage to stick over the raptor pit.
Quoted from NFK:BTW found this and thought it would be great mod if this is on the "Shoot T-Rex when lite" sign next to the T-Rex:
» YouTube video
Where did you find them please post a link, what voltage are they?
@goatdan: You are out.
Quoted from Darscot:Where did you find them please post a link, what voltage are they?
Can't tell yet. The guy in the video upload how he did those but doesn't tell where he get the parts (pcb) from. I ask him but no response yet. Here is his video:
and here is how he did it (in german):
...seems like he did the PCB and programming too.
Yeah I searched you tube and he has several videos and he has responded and people have offered to buy. Maybe we can get in contact with him and see if he would sell a group of them. Seeing your country probable you the best guy to communicate with him.
In this video he responded yesterday, and I google translates and it sounds like he just doesn't have the time.
Silly question, I think:
Since I installed Chad's v6.0 ROM, I have not actually reached CHAOS mode a single time. To confirm its working properly, I tried walking thru the game manually with the glass removed. I cannot recall the sequence that enables CHAOS mode.
It's triggered by a JACKPOT, right? But when??
Thanks
When Tri-ball starts all the letters in CHAOS are lit on the playfield. Completing the associated shot unlights its letter. C: Bunker, H: Pop Bumpers, A: Control Room, O: Ramp, S: Power Shed. When you've completed all CHAOS shots you get a wicked 'CHAOS!' callout and balls are launched from the shooter lane until you've got six balls in play. Then you're in CHAOS multiball.
If you can't start CHAOS multiball then a switches associated with one of the key shots is possibly broken.
Quoted from accidental:When Tri-ball starts all the letters in CHAOS are lit on the playfield. Completing the associated shot unlights its letter. C: Bunker, H: Pop Bumpers, A: Control Room, O: Ramp, S: Power Shed. When you've completed all CHAOS shots you get a wicked 'CHAOS!' callout and balls are launched from the shooter lane until you've got six balls in play. Then you're in CHAOS multiball.
If you can't start CHAOS multiball then a switches associated with one of the key shots is possibly broken.
Correction...there are two jackpots lit at the start of triball (loop and ramp). Hitting one of those lights the CHAOS letters. Get all of those and the 6 ball "CHAOS" multiball starts where you have to get the CHAOS letters again, then jackpot shots lite, then trex after that.
Added a JP to my collection the other week and raptor danger plastic has a white area in a single spot. I'm guessing the coil underneath is potentially over heating or something and the previous ower didn't look at it quick enough?
http://i.imgur.com/HNJspeB.jpg
Any idea what I can do about it?
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