(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • 7,247 posts
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  • Latest reply 7 days ago by Marco1973
  • Topic is favorited by 186 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (5 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (5 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (5 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (4 years ago)

Post #436 Rock Custom Pinball Under Cab Lighting mod Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #457 Rock Custom Pinball Acrylic Playfield Backer Mod [Video] Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #510 GoodToBeDad's Ramp Gate Mod - Controlled with a PIG2 [Video] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #554 1:43 Scale JP JEEP [Amazon Link] Posted by winteriscoming (4 years ago)

Post #570 T-Rex Saucer Replacement [Link] Posted by outcida (4 years ago)

Post #631 T-Rex Hand Puppet Mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #687 Loopcombo Site Link Posted by accidental (4 years ago)

Post #743 JP Jeep Flasher Mod [Video / Link to thread] Posted by lkadlec (4 years ago)

Post #950 Chad's Unofficial Code [Link] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #1092 CPU / Display Chip Locations [Picture] Posted by Crash (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#590 4 years ago

I just picked up a nice JP that is HUO which was purchased by the original owner in June of 1993 from the Game Exchange in Denver, CO. Since I am not very familiar with this title can someone confirm if the topper as shown in the photos is correct with the metal plate in front of the topper which blocks the lights/flashers and reflects the light back onto the topper?

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Gord

#595 4 years ago

I went through the single lamp tests to ensure that all of my lamps are working correctly and after replacing a couple of bulbs all the single lamp tests are now successful. I am confused though as the single lamp tests do not test the left/right in-lane lamps which are for the 'Lite Dock' and 'Lite ADV. X' inserts.

These two inserts seem to be lit all the time. Am I missing something here or is this normal?

Gord

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#597 4 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

IIRC they are lit all the time because they always score Lite Dock and Adv. X. I don't remember them being excluded from the lamp matrix, but I guess it makes sense because they're always on!

Super, thanks for the confirmation. I appreciate it.

Gord

#607 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

This is normal. These two lamps are part of the GI... they are not part of the lamp matrix. Will always be on whenever the GI is on.

Thanks Chad and Pimp77 for the confirmation. It sort of took me by surprise that the two in-lane lights were staying on and when I didn't see them listed in the single lamps test for the lamp matrix I wasn't sure, but with your confirmation I now know it is normal.

Gord

#611 4 years ago

I notice that when I enter the 'Game Diagnostics' that after the service credits display the system displays what I am guessing is an error for switch #59 (Row 3, Column 8), T-Rex Trough, because it hasn't been activated in 50 games. All other switch on Row 3, Column 8, are working as expected.

On page 27 of the JP manual it lists where switch #59 resides (near the right ramp entrance and entrance to the Raptor Pit). I checked both on top and below the playfield in this general area and cannot find the T-Rex Trough switch.

I put the game into the switch edges test and activated every switch near this area and cannot find a switch #59 and all the switches I activated worked as expected. The only time that I have seen this switch #59 error is when I cycle through the 'Game Diagnostics' screens right after the service credits screeen and before the burn-in minutes screen (page 23 of the JP manual). As a side note the T-Rex works as expected during game play and also during 'Game Diagnostics' testing.

Any input on this issue is greatly appreciated as always.

Gord

#613 4 years ago
Quoted from Crispin:

If I remember correctly it was the trex switch activated when trex is all the way up. So you're getting the report because trex is at the top of his range.

Hi Crispin,

Thanks for the reply. So I am guessing that this is no big deal then as the T-Rex seems to function as expected.

Gord

#616 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Switch 59 would be underneath the playfield inside the plastic trough that leads away from the T-Rex.

Thanks Chad, I will check it out.

#623 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Switch 59 would be underneath the playfield inside the plastic trough that leads away from the T-Rex.

Hi Chad,

Switch #59 needed an adjustment and now it registers every time the T-REX gobbles the ball and it does award 250,000 points. Thanks for letting me know the exact location of the switch. My JP is now working 100 percent. This is my first DE game and I was a little concerned that it would be more difficult from a maintenance perspective than my B/W games, but it really is pretty similar.

Gord

#627 4 years ago

I have a ROM question for JP.

Current ROM Versions On My JP
Game 4.04 (C5)
Display 4.00 (ROM 0)
Sound 4.23

ROM Versions Ordered
Game 5.13 (C5)
Display 5.10 (ROM 0)
Sound Newest Version (U7, U17, U21)

Does anyone have a change log for these ROM version updates? I checked the usual places (Action Pinball and John Wart's site 'That Pinball Place') for ROM version change logs and cannot find any type of change log for what was fixed/added in these newer ROM versions.

Thanks.

Gord

#629 4 years ago
Quoted from InfiniteLives:

i dont have any answer for you but a question:
where did you order new rom versions from?

Use the following URL to order your pinball ROMS from 'That Pinball Place' which is John Wart's web site.

Pinball ROM Store
http://www.thatpinballplace.com/eproms/index.htm

Data East/Stern/Sega Pinball ROMS
http://www.thatpinballplace.com/eproms/de.html

His prices are very reasonable and he ships right away. I have ordered pinball ROMS from him many times and have never been disappointed with the ROMS or the service.

Gord

1 week later
#689 4 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

Hey team JP! There are some seriously awesome looking games out there now thanks to all the awesome new mods people have been making.
For those who have been waiting patiently, I finally have all my mod product back in stock
For scoop mod icon sets, apron card sets, and trees head on over to http://www.loopcombo.com to place an order with free shipping worldwide.
BackInStock-Ad-Low.jpg

Hi,

You have some very nice JP mods. You mention that the scoop light icons mod works best with LED's installed over the scoops. I have regular incandescent bulbs in my JP so could you recommend the exact type of LED's for over the scoops and a possible source for the LED's?

I checked out Cointaker and there are many different types of LED's so I am not sure which ones would work the best with your JP light scoop mod. I am thinking the 555 YELLOW and 555 GREEN super LED's shown in the URL below would be a good fit with your YELLOW version of the icons. Can we split a set up and get two YELLOW icons and one BLUE (for the bunker)?

http://cointaker.com/products/555-super

Thanks.

Gord

#692 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

My recommendation is Cool White and let the natural colors of the Scoop Mod shine through. That's how I did it.

Thanks Chad. I will give that a try.

Gord

#694 4 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Did you get some anti-ghosting kind? I have all cheap Ablaze LEDs in mine, and the the scoop light and other lamps raised from the PF are some of the worst offenders for ghosting. I changed those back to incandescent before the expo I brought my game to a few months ago. I thought incandescent looked fine with the scoop light mod.

That is good to know. It sounds like the anti-ghosting LED's may be the way to go then.

1 week later
#714 4 years ago
Quoted from PiperPinball:

Velociraptor and Pterodactyl dinosaur mods:
I am making a few of these mods for my JP. The Velociraptor eyes and mouth light up with red LEDs. And the Pterodactyl Eyes are red with 3 yellow LEDs under its wings. (more pictures to follow).
Let me know who is interested? Send me a msg, not sure yet on cost.
And I am working on a small JP jeep with white LED headlights and red brake lights. (more pictures to follow).
-Dan
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Very nice. PM sent.

Gord

1 week later
#791 4 years ago

Does anyone reproduce the following small strip of a sticker circled in RED in the T-Rex Paddock? Just curious as this seems to be a very common issue for these stickers to get chewed up with JP's.

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Gord

1 week later
#822 4 years ago

Very nice looking JP. Good job.

Gord

2 weeks later
#857 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Power Shed plastic fix was relatively easy and pain free. I ended up making a duplicate to place underneath and mount the lights to. Did it in one shot, using only a handheld Dremel. The hardest part was convincing myself that it will fit better if I move the light back a tad. Which meant that I had to modify my broken plastic. Fits like a glove. And if you didn't know what you were looking for, you'd never notice it.
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Nice job Woody.

Gord

#867 4 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

huh.... I'd look around very closely to make sure something didn't short. That sounds very weird.

Agreed, it is very tight underneath by the scoops (did you move the scoops slightly to accommodate Cliffys?) and very possible that a hard shot to the side of the scoop may have jarred the scoop metal to touch an adjacent metal tab from a light socket.

Gord

3 weeks later
#912 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Agree...mine had this issue too. Align the targets and them tighten them down. Shouldn't be a dead target with zero give.

+1. My JP targets were slightly off-center when I got the game so I adjusted them and now they have give like they should have.

Gord

1 week later
#967 4 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

I'll be glad to program these at my regular rates. Through the end of October, I'll donate $2 to pinside per set purchased.
Please make sure you send Chad something to show your appreciation!

Thanks John, donation sent to Chad H. for updating this code.

Gord

#973 4 years ago
Quoted from enjoyvelvet:

Could someone pm me if they could burn the update for me? I can PayPal ya!

Read post # 965 in this thread. Contact John Wart for your ROM request.

Gord

#976 4 years ago
Quoted from enjoyvelvet:

Thanks. Got it. Payment sent!

Good deal, John does a great job with ROM burning and ships super fast and the ROM chips are labeled very professionally with the version number which is really nice. I think I have had John supply me ROMS for all of my games. Maybe I should have gotten an EPROM burner 8 years ago, but I don't regret using John's ROM service one bit.

Gord

#978 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Has anything been changed with the attract mode? Didn't see anything in the log, so guessing not. Just seems that a couple insert lights were forgotten about when the lights cycle through. Some don't light one direction, and other don't light the other direction. When I got my machine, I used the attract mode to see which bulbs were burnt out. Took me a minute to realize that they didn't light some times.

Hi Woody,

Did you ever hear if the attract mode lighting has changed with the ROM update or is it merely coincidental and something else is causing your issue?

Gord

#984 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Never heard. And am pretty sure it's the software. I went back and watched Chad's video talking about the change he made with the tri-ball, and you can see in the video the "H" in CHAOS doesn't light when the lights are cycling one direction, but does in the other direction. There's a few lights like this.

I am running the newest sanctioned version of the ROMS (CPU 5.13, Display 5.10) and during attract mode the 'H' in CHAOS doesn't always light up when the lights cycle. When the lights cycle from left to right it does often light the 'H', but not always and when the lights cycle from right to left it doesn't light the 'H' even though other CHAOS lights are lighting.

I believe that this is the standard functionality of the standard ROMS and since Chad's ROM updates are built upon the newest version of the standard ROMS I believe that his ROMS will act the same with regards to attract mode lighting functionality.

Gord

#986 4 years ago
Quoted from enjoyvelvet:

What's weird is on my machine the lights above the Jurassic Park entrance doors at the right ramp entrance don't light during attract mode and either do the two lights above the right scoop hole. During test mode those lights work fine.

That is normal functionality with the following ROM versions for JP.

CPU 5.13
Display 5.10

I don't know if it worked differently with older ROM versions or not, but with the ROM versions listed above that is standard functionality.

Gord

#997 4 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

Both in lines are tied to the GI

Yes, Slim64 is correct as was also mentioned a few months ago by Chad H. in post # 21 in this same thread. I also had the same question 3 months ago.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club?tq&tu=ChadH#post-2526802

Gord

#999 4 years ago
Quoted from hawk370:

how do you make a donation to Chad H?

Here you go.

http://www.pinballcode.com/

Click on the 'Donate' button on the upper right hand side of the screen.

Gord

#1047 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

guys - any cheaper alternative to the egg replacement than this?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1293

That is actually a pretty darn good price for a ceramic Powerball (aka egg replacement).

Gord

#1069 4 years ago

I just installed the new 6.00 ROMS for JP. Very nice work Chad H.

I like being able to skip T-REX diagnostics at startup and also not always having to start with the STAMPEDE mode. I have only played about 6 games since installing the new ROMS so I will get in some more games and then report back.

Gord

#1096 4 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Just read this. What exactly do you mean? I remember replacing a ROM on my parent's TZ years ago. Do you just mean to line it up correctly with all the pins?

Quoted from dirtbag66:

Dumb question, so please be gentle:
I'm receiving my two new ROMs today, but I have no idea where they go!
Can anyone post a picture of which ROMs they replace? Pretty sure I know where the CPU one goes, but am having a hard time predicting where the display ROM will go.
Any/all help will be appreciated!

Below are detailed instructions for replacing both the CPU ROM and the Display ROM for Data East games. These instructions are from John Wart's web site.

http://www.thatpinballplace.com/documents/installing_eproms_de.html

I highly recommend that you familiarize yourself with both the photos and the narrative from John's instructions to ensure proper installation of your new ROMS.

Gord

#1136 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

That's one I need to play. Curious to see how the moon shot works. And would love to see the 13 ball multiball.

I played Apollo 13 at the PHOF a few years ago and experienced the 13-ball multi-ball. That is some strange stuff, but fun.

Gord

#1164 4 years ago
Quoted from gamera9:

Everything else works. All multi balls. Had no issues until i upgraded.

You may need to revert back to your previous version of CPU and Display ROMS to see if the problem goes away. I upgraded from CPU ROM version 5.13 and Display ROM version 5.10 to the 6.00 versions of both and my T-REX functions correctly as it did prior to the ROM upgrade and eats the balls when appropriate.

Gord

#1175 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

will pinbits attempt to create a plastic set as well to replace broken ones or is it just to protect existing ones? Seems like big market for plastic replacement so hopefully the former.

Pinbits has expressed a willingness to create plastic protectors for JP, provided that someone can provide them with a good set of plastic scans. Pinbits is not creating a replacement plastic set for JP.

However, it appears that a replacement plastic set for JP may be on the radar screen for CPR as per the following posting by Stu of CPR.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-pfs-back-glass-and-plastics-would-you-like-to-see-cpr-do/page/7#post-2729885

Gord

#1178 4 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

I said PLEASE!!!

I was waiting for PRETTY PLEASE, but I guess PLEASE will have to do. Here you go. Hopefully these photos will help you out.

Gord

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#1180 4 years ago
Quoted from oopsallberrys:

if you guys can wait a little over a month, I can probably scan my JP plastics that are in storage

I will wait as long as it takes. Thanks.

Gord

#1183 4 years ago

Hi Vince,

Post #1178 now contains an additional photo which contains the measurements that you requested.

Gord

3 weeks later
#1367 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Thought. Could it be possible to scratch up the ends, and put a bead line of solder? or would you think it's break up after a while?

I don't think a bead line of solder would withstand one ball strike without breaking. It sounds like you will need to have this tab welded back on if you want the fix to last.

Gord

1 week later
#1462 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Just played a few rounds on JP with the glass off. I noticed an annoying rattle when the shaker motor was rumbling. I located at the point where the wire ramp sits on a supporting metal hex post.
This seems an odd mode of support which I have not seen on a few of other's playfield photos I've looked at. Maybe was present on one photo, but not very clear.
11-20-2015 11-17-56 AM.png
Is this the intended support installation? Maybe I'll add a nylon panhead screw atop there to add some padding and dampen the rattling. Or, I'll deform the ramp ever so slightly to force a more positive contact with the support.
Suggestions?

Mine has the same hex post, although it looks like my wire ramp sits flush on top of the hex post as shown by the photos below. No rattle on mine either.

Gord

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#1471 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Gord, I'm curious the purpose of the white rubber on the "Shoot TRex When Lit" feature.

Hi Mark,

That white rubber ring was put there by the previous owner of my JP. He said that he had a ball get stuck there once and this prevented it from happening again.

In the 5 months that I have owned my JP I have never had a ball fly up there, however I just left the white rubber ring there for the time being. One of these days I will remove it.

Gord

1 week later
#1507 4 years ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

Anyone got high quality scans of the playfields plastics? I have a few that are missing/broken and want to try and remake those for myself.
Thanks

Hi jjoravec,

If you come across high quality scans of JP playfield plastics please share them and Pinbits will use them to create plastic protector sets for this title.

Thanks.

Gord

#1531 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Made a quick scan of the left & right slings, @600dpi, with a scale in the image for reference. Saved as a JPEG.
Observations (upon printing):
1. The size of the printed image does not match the original plastics (image slightly smaller than original)
2. The colors appear to be shifted from the original (more saturation, shifted to red slightly)
I acknowledge this may be 100% related to my color laser printer and not the scanned image itself.
Let me know what you think, or offer any suggestions?

Sling_Left.jpg Sling_Right.jpg

Hi Mark,

Thanks for these. Would you scan some more of the plastics and please include the ruler like you did for the sling plastics?

Pam from Pinbits said that they would make plastic protector sets for JP, but they need a good scan with a ruler in the scan for each plastic piece that needs a protector so that they can properly calibrate the size and hole locations for the plastic protector pieces. Below is her comment to me.

=============================================================
Hi Gordon,

I don’t think it (DPI chosen for scanning) matters (we are not using the images, just the shape and position of holes/slots- lamps etc.).
What is important is to scan a tape measure or thin ruler with the scan so I can calibrate the image size.

Thanks!

Pam
=============================================================

I will send the scan images to Pinbits when we have them. Other than the two sling plastics if you could scan any plastic with a ruler in the scan which would be prone to breakage (the large Raptor Pit plastic comes to mind and there are a few others as well) it will help us help Pinbits to get plastic protector sets created for JP which will be nice as there are no reproduction plastic sets available for JP at the present time.

Any help that you are able to provide will be greatly appreciated.

Gord

#1533 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

I've made scans of the following 17 plastics, @600dpi w/transparent ruler included, in JPG format:
1. Sling_Right
2. Sling_Left
3. Outlane_Right
4. Outlane_Left
5. Shooter_Cover
6. Shooter_Exit
7. Rail_Right_Top
8. Rail_Right_1
9. Rail_Right_2
10. Rail_Right_3
11. Rail_Left_Top
12. Rail_Left_1
13. Rail_Left_2
14. Orbit_Right
15. Orbit_Left
16. Pop_Bumper
17. Shoot_T-Rex
The only plastics excluded are the large piece over the Raptor & Egg lanes, and the T-Tex Collar (riveted). I did not want to do any disassembly on the T-Rex mechanism. Plus, the large piece would not fit on my scanner.
PM me if you'd like a link to these files (~2MB apiece). I should note that some of these plastics have become deformed over the years (bent, curved, cracks near screw holes, etc.), so they may not be a perfect match with new pieces. I did not make any attempts at color correction on these files - they came straight off the scanner, as-is.
Hope these are useful,
Mark

PM sent.

Gord

#1536 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

I've made scans of the following 17 plastics, @600dpi w/transparent ruler included, in JPG format:
1. Sling_Right
2. Sling_Left
3. Outlane_Right
4. Outlane_Left
5. Shooter_Cover
6. Shooter_Exit
7. Rail_Right_Top
8. Rail_Right_1
9. Rail_Right_2
10. Rail_Right_3
11. Rail_Left_Top
12. Rail_Left_1
13. Rail_Left_2
14. Orbit_Right
15. Orbit_Left
16. Pop_Bumper
17. Shoot_T-Rex
The only plastics excluded are the large piece over the Raptor & Egg lanes, and the T-Tex Collar (riveted). I did not want to do any disassembly on the T-Rex mechanism. Plus, the large piece would not fit on my scanner.
PM me if you'd like a link to these files (~2MB apiece). I should note that some of these plastics have become deformed over the years (bent, curved, cracks near screw holes, etc.), so they may not be a perfect match with new pieces. I did not make any attempts at color correction on these files - they came straight off the scanner, as-is.
Hope these are useful,
Mark

Thanks Mark for taking the time to make and accurately label these scans and include a ruler in the scans. I really appreciate it. The scans look really good. The main plastic that is not scanned is the large plastic over the Raptor pit and to be honest I have never really heard of that one breaking from a ball strike anyway so we should be good to go now.

I have sent the scans that you have provided to Pam at Pinbits along with playfield photos that I have and hopefully we can get plastic protector sets made for JP now. When Pinbits creates the plastic protector sets and they are available for purchase I will post on Pinside regarding their availability.

If you don't mind, please leave the JP plastic scans up on your Google Drive for now as I also provided that URL to Pam in the event that she has an issue with the ZIP attachments that I sent to her.

Gord

#1544 4 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Gordon, I had scanned all of my JP plastics at one point with the dino collar and the large raptor piece. I could maybe dig up those scans and email if you pm your email address.

Hi Jim,

PM sent with email. That would be great.

Gord

#1546 4 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Sent your way.
For the record, a dino collar protector may not be all that user friendly. Brackets would have to have rivets drilled out and reinstalled. I personally made a similar shaped "protector" plastic for mine since the original was snapped in 2 and needed it for the support.
Raptor pit isn't all that friendly either, but no rivets there. I have a protector I made installed on it as well, so it can be done.
Edit: I was trying to see if any pics I've posted show my protectors on these 2 plastics well. This post has a couple. I installed mine underneath the originals. I'm not sure how the commercial ones are intended to go. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-improved-t-rex-work-in-progress/page/8#post-2041939

Hi Jim,

I just reviewed the scans and unfortunately I don't think that Pinbits will be able to use the Raptor Pit plastic scan or the Dino Collar plastic scan. The issue is that Pinbits said that they need to have a small ruler in the scan image for each plastic scan so that they are able to properly calibrate the image size when creating the plastic protectors.

Thanks anyway as I appreciate the effort.

Gord

#1548 4 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Sorry to hear. No trouble since I already had the scans from when I was repairing the game a while ago. No way I'm going to uninstall and rescan at this point though.

No problem, I completely understand. Pinbits should have enough of the relevent JP plastic scans to create a JP plastic protector set.

Thanks again.

Gord

#1558 4 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Thanks for the info!
All because someone didn't replace an overheating coil when it first appeared :\
When I get my work area set up I'll have a better look at it and see what I can do.

Hi Koops,

It appears that a replacement plastic set for JP may be on the radar screen for CPR as per the following posting by Stu of CPR.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-pfs-back-glass-and-plastics-would-you-like-to-see-cpr-do/page/7#post-2729885

You may want to reach out to CPR to see if they are planning on running JP plastic sets at some time down the road. Since CPR has JP plastic scans it sounds like they are going to run them at some point.

Gord

2 months later
#1746 3 years ago
Quoted from InfiniteLives:

so once out of maybe 100 times T rex eats the ball, the ball somehow manages to fall and miss the subway ( i presume) and falls into the bottom of the cab. Anyone else have this issue ever? I think I may be missing a support bracket or something on the subway. I'll take some pics later and see if anyone can verify if i am or am not missing some hardware.

Hi IL,

I never have this issue on my JP. Below are a couple of photos of what my subway under the T-REX looks like.

Gord

DSCN3444_(resized).JPG
DSCN3442_(resized).JPG

#1750 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Ah. Yep. Sorry, I just had mine off yesterday or I'd measure the screw and the spacer. But that looks like that's all your're missing. Guessing, I'd say that the screw is 1 1/2in long, and the spacer is 1in. But couldn't tell you thread.

Hi IL,

This may help you out. As you can see the spacer is 3/4" and the screw is 1-1/4".

Gord

DSCN3581_(resized).JPG

#1759 3 years ago
Quoted from Goalie:

Does anyone make or know where I could get playfield plastics for this game? pretty much all of mine are broken

At the present time they are not available. I believe that they are on the to do list at CPR, but not sure where they are in their queue.

Gord

#1775 3 years ago
Quoted from InfiniteLives:

So I got the screw and spacer in today but turns out my game doesn't have a place for the screw to screw in. It's bizarre bit it looks like a different mounting plate for it. Not sure how I can fix it now

Hi IL,

In the photo below there is a RED oval which circles the screw/spacer which is screwed into a metal mount that holds the plastic subway ramp in place. Please take a nice clear photo of this area on your game so that we can see this area on your game.

In post #1748 you took a photo, but it is out of focus and doesn't clearly show the area that the screw goes into. Are you saying that you don't have a metal threaded mounting point for your plastic subway ramp?

Gord

TREX_Subway_Spacer_(resized).JPG

#1784 3 years ago
Quoted from InfiniteLives:

Here are the photos I grabbed with my phone. Sorry if they arent great, it was hard to get it to stay in focus. Anyways, I still am unaware of any place to mount this
20160223_113558_(resized).jpg20160223_113536_(resized).jpg20160223_113525_(resized).jpg20160223_113529_(resized).jpg

Hi IL,

Those are much better photos, but I still do not see the threaded metal mount that should be there. Did it break off or is your mounting plate somehow missing this or perhaps it is hidden by the metal chute in the subway?

Take a look at your photo below. I have circled the area on your photo that should contain the threaded metal mount. I have also included the photo of my mounting plate with the threaded metal mount circled so that you can see the difference.

In your photo part of the metal mounting plate is obstructed by the metal chute in the subway. You may need to remove this chute/subway to get a complete photo that shows the entire surface of the metal mounting plate.

Gord

IL_Subway_(resized).jpg
DSCN3443_(resized).JPG

#1789 3 years ago
Quoted from InfiniteLives:

Here are some photos of the non existence of my screw post
20160224_181955_(resized).jpg20160224_182004_(resized).jpg20160224_182034_(resized).jpg

That blows big time. Your metal mounting plate that holds your electric motor doesn't have the threaded metal stub to secure the subway ramp to. It doesn't appear that one was there and somehow broke off either. This dang issue must be driving you a bit crazy.

I don't know what your next step is at this point. There are some smart people who read these threads so perhaps someone skilled in metal fabrication can chime in with a suggestion.

Gord

#1792 3 years ago
Quoted from Soapman:

image_(resized).jpeg
This is what a JP gear box should look like. Note the raised spot for motor to mount and the subway screw.
image_(resized).jpeg
Looks like what is in IL's machine. Or one very similar. This is a striker extreme

Hi Bill,

I think you are onto something there. It looks like the part in IL's game is not the correct part for JP.

So he would need to replace that part then if it is available. It seems like at some point in time an incorrect part was substituted on his JP. That is a bummer.

Gord

#1798 3 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Very nice idea, woody! That would work well.

+ 1, something like that looks like it would work.

Gord

2 weeks later
#1969 3 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

PM me, I have scanned nearly the full set. I can send you the link.

Definitely take Mark up on his offer as his JP plastic scans are the same scans that were used by Pinbits to create JP plastic protector sets and they turned out very nice.

Gord

#1979 3 years ago
Quoted from jim5six:

I am having a problem getting my JP playfield incline set. I have 30.5 inch legs all around and with the leg levelers on the front set as low as they can go (jam nuts removed and levelers bottomed out on leg) and the rear levelers set as high as they can go (just one turn of threads above leg material) I can only get 7 degrees of incline. I would like to find out if this is normal or maybe the front legs should be the shorter 28 inch variety? Yes, my floor is level, I checked that first. I am not trusting the built in levels, I am using something better. I am measuring directly on the playfield surface. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim

Hi Jim,

I just confirmed and both my JP and TFTC (both DE games) have 28.5 inch legs installed. I think that you need to install the 28.5 inch legs for JP.

Gord

#1980 3 years ago
Quoted from Endprodukt:

Got 'em.
Is anyone willing to make or share a scan of the "Raptors Danger" plastic and the Plastic that is riveted around the T-Rex? That would make it complete.
I'm planing on getting the set vectorized. This might get us somewhere...without promising anything at this point.

Maybe these two will help.

Gord

Raptor_Plastic_(resized).jpg
Trex_Collar_(resized).jpg

#1985 3 years ago
Quoted from Endprodukt:

Good news: Someone else will release JP plastics officially. Yay. Can't go into any detail but it will not take too long.

That is good news. I will most definitely purchase a set.

Gord

4 months later
#2436 3 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

Here is the scan. I cam email it to you the original jpg if you PM me your email address. Will email tonight when I get home from work.

Thanks for posting this scan sheet of decals for JP. How would one go about getting this decal sheet printed as a decal sheet?

Is this something that a Fedex Office Print Center would be able to print as a decal sheet if I provide them the scan file on a USB drive? I will check with them as well as I would want something that is die-cut so that the decals are easy to apply.

Gord

3 months later
#2704 3 years ago
Quoted from phyreteam:

If someone has time to test a couple of settings with Chad's 6.00 code, I ran into a "glitch" that drove me crazy;
Set Flashers to "dim" and coils to "soft"; the row lights were sending 3.6v to non-lit lights in the neighboring rows causing partially illuminated inserts... not sure if this was a fluke, but after hours of metering and chasing down wiring thinking there was a short somewhere, changing flashers back to "normal" immediately removed the partial lighting. Possibly a race-case of settings..
tldr; If you end up having your lights start partially glowing with no relation to the matrix, reset your settings.

Are you using LED'S? It almost sounds like LED ghosting.

Gord

#2711 3 years ago
Quoted from phyreteam:

Comet non-ghosting LEDs. The issue went away immediately after I changed the game settings for flasher and coil power. It wasn't the typical ghosting of other lamps on the same row/column-- I could activate lamp 64(smart missile, 8-8), and 27(spitter 3, 3-4)/5(5-1) would partially illuminate.

How does Chad's new code (6.0) work with the same settings using incandescent lamps instead of LED's in your game? I am running the new code in my JP with none of the insert ghosting that you describe, however I am using incandescent lamps in my game and not LED's.

I had installed some LED's in my TAF mansion inserts a few years ago and experienced similar issues as to what you are describing with flickering inserts so I removed the LED's and went back to incandescent lamps and the issue went away. I know that there are updated game ROM's to correct the ghosting issue with TAF (a non-ghosting ROM) so perhaps something like that would need to be created for JP to fix your issue.

Gord

#2724 3 years ago
Quoted from deanearp:

Also, see in the picture, that grey spacer in the lower right hand corner--there is only supposed to be one of those, right?

There should be two spacers, one for each screw on the T-REX plate. I think that they are 1/4", but they may be 1/8" spacers. You will need to measure them.

I purchased my JP from the original owner and when I removed the T-REX plate there was a spacer under each of the 2 screws. The two screws actually go through the two spacers.

Gord

DSCN3353 - Circle (resized).JPG

1 week later
#2803 3 years ago
Quoted from shadem:

I was missing a couple of decals (one missing and one damaged) and just printed a replacement.
Thanks Rondogg for the scans!

What did you print the decals on (paper or vinyl)? Did you put mylar over the decal?

Gord

1 week later
#2827 3 years ago
Quoted from outcida:

Raptor Crate mod now also available in smaller version so it can mount above raptor kickback without blocking the view of the mosquito amber.

Hi Tim,

Does this new smaller raptor version move or light up when the raptor pit (Danger Lamp) is active? BTW, it is a really nice looking JP mod.

Thanks.

Gord

1 month later
#2938 3 years ago
Quoted from mbabischkin:

The other thing I noticed, there's nothing in the SW1 position on the CPU board. Page 52 of the manual indicates that this should be the location of the NM1 switch, and I could have sworn something used to be there... Now there's nothing

Nope, your CPU board looks fine. See a photo of my CPU board from my JP below.

Gord

P1000422 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#3001 2 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

The diodes for those switches are probably mounted remotely. Follow the wire and find the diode board mounted to the playfield directly.

The URL below shows a JP with the diode mounted remotely.

Gord

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/4#post-1939477

2 weeks later
#3034 2 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

I recently picked up a JP that has a shaker. Did they originally come with one? Also, I'm thinking about LEDing it but notice lots of fade going on in the GI. Has anyone had any issue with that?

Yes, JP did originally come with a shaker motor. When the T-Rex picks up the ball the shaker motor does its thing. If the GI is fading it sounds like you may need to replace some oxidized GI connectors and also re-pin the appropriate male headers on the power driver board.

Gord

#3049 2 years ago
Quoted from sagejr:

Just curious to know how many of you have a topper installed. Mine does not have a topper. Was the game originally sold with a topper or was it an add on?

Hi sagejr,

JP was originally sold with the topper. I purchased my JP from the original owner and he told me that the game came with the topper when he purchased it NIB from the local distributor (Game Exchange) in 1993.

Gord

1 week later
#3094 2 years ago
Quoted from JP1993:

Out of curiosity, is there anyway to avoid having to replace the batteries so that the high scores/etc. don't reset? It's a family pinball machine and would like to keep bragging rights/results on the machine if possible.
Thanks again to the forum and and all the help and guidance -happy to be part of the community.

You need to have your JP powered on when you replace the batteries in order to retain the settings and high scores. I know the natural inclination is to replace batteries with the machine off, but then you will lose your settings and high scores.

You may want to get NVRAM for your JP and you will not have to replace batteries ever again. Since RAM on JP is already socketed it is a simple installation procedure. Below is a link for NVRAM.

http://lockwhenlit.com/anyPinDMD+.htm

Gord

#3103 2 years ago

I just ordered a set as well. JP plastic sets have been in high demand for a long time.

Gord

2 months later
#3250 2 years ago
Quoted from pin2d:

Hi all, I'm sure this is covered somewhere in this thread but I couldn't find it - I'm looking for instructions on how/where to install ChadH's ROM. Any help would be appreciated - thanks!

Courtesy of John Wart's Pinball Rom website 'That Pinball Place'.

http://www.thatpinballplace.com/documents/installing_eproms_de.html

Gord

1 month later
#3355 2 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Hi gang
I'm after a huge favour. I'm mid shop job on my JP and I've lost my tear down pics!!
Does anyone have any pics from a previous tear down? Especially the rear of the playfield under the raptor plastic and behind T. rex.
I'd be eternally grateful
Thanks all
Gaz

I stumbled across the following which may be of interest to you.

http://chrix.thefnet.co.uk/index.php/Jurassic_Park_pinball_machine_teardown_gallery
http://www.weirpinball.com/gallery/index.php/Teardown-pics/Data-East/Jurassic-Park?page=1

Gord

#3360 2 years ago

Here are some more JP photos that I stumbled upon.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/33480248@N05/albums/72157652617952822

Gord

1 month later
#3551 2 years ago
Quoted from flakeloaf:

My bunker and control room holes are pretty reamed out and it's hard to get a sensible measurement. When someone has a sec, could you please verify that they're 1 5/8" by 1 3/8", and the power shed is 1 3/8" square (which could explain why it's such a hard shot!)?

While not the greatest photos, perhaps this will assist with your request.

Gord

P1000564 (resized).JPG
P1000565 (resized).JPG
P1000563 (resized).JPG
P1000562 (resized).JPG
P1000569 (resized).JPG
P1000568 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#3626 2 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

Does anyone know where to get a JP ramp these days, or is it unobtanium? Left entrance is broke on mine, even a cliffy would be helpful but I don't see one specific for that either.

I am guessing that it is unobtanium. I have never seen one offered for sale on Pinside, however it is possible that a collector has one in their parts stash so it doesn't hurt to ask.

You may want to reach out to Cliffy directly via email to see about him creating a custom ramp protector.

Gord

2 weeks later
#3681 2 years ago
Quoted from modfather:

Here is a cool little mod we do. The Jurassic Park Jeep model has two custom metal brackets for a secure installation. It has leds built in behind the headlights. Attaches to a nearby flasher and is interactive with the game. Check this out and other cool mods for all kinds of different games at http://www.modfatherpinball.com

How does the mod attach to a flasher? Do you have a molex type plug or alligator clips or is soldering required for installation?

Thanks. Looks good.

Gord

1 week later
#3695 2 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

It's faded. Very common with this game. The original paint is Fluorecsent orange. If you still have it then good for you.

Yup, the original color is orange. See photo below.

Gord

DSCN0361 (resized).JPG

3 weeks later
#3731 2 years ago
Quoted from mack505:

Would someone be willing to take a bunch of pictures of their lower GI lamps from the underside of the playfield? The White-Yellow and Yellow wired connections.
The previous owner swapped playfields with a NOS playfield, which looks great but the lower GI doesn't work because F3 fuse blows. They had some funky wiring going on, some of the lower GI lamps aren't wired/connected at all... Thanks in advance....

Hi Mack,

I don't have a bunch of pictures, but I found the following picture that I took of the underside of my JP playfield. Hopefully you can zoom in on the photo to see what you need with regards to GI wiring.

Pinside downsizes posted images so if you PM me your direct email address I will send you this image in full resolution via email which will allow you to zoom in even more and isolate your wiring issue.

Gord

DSCN3345 (resized).JPG

#3734 2 years ago
Quoted from mack505:

Thanks Gord and Waldo! There is no grounding wire connecting any of my lower GI, which I see is present in Gordo's pic. Close up pics of those lower GI lamps/connections with the White-Yellow and Yellow colored wires would be really helpful. Thanks!

Hi Mack,

I have a few more under JP playfield photos to assist you with your GI lighting troubleshooting. I also emailed you the same photos in a higher resolution.

Gord

P1000620 (resized).JPG
P1000618 (resized).JPG
P1000617 (resized).JPG
P1000619 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#3763 2 years ago
Quoted from outcida:

Do you guys want a static sign or would you prefer one that has the arrow spin slowly (on a motor) like in the movie where Dennis spins it after he ran it over. I don't really like static mods and am always looking for ways to make things pop.

I like the idea of the sign being a little more interactive and the arrow spinning slowly seems like a potentially good add-on. You just need to be careful to make sure that it is very reliable and installation should be able to be performed in 15-30 minutes at the most.

If the sign mod is too complicated it likely will break at some point and get removed from the game. Just my 2 cents.

Gord

#3776 2 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

Yoyo, and will you be making more to sell?

+ 1 on this. I would definitely be a customer if you make these available for purchase.

Gord

#3783 2 years ago
Quoted from outcida:

First shot at the East Dock Sign. The arrow can be rotated by hand right now.

Printed it in black as that is the filament that's currently in my printer. I have some white filament on order. Thoughts comments appreciated.
Decals will be redone in Photoshop. These are just some I found online.

Very nice indeed. My only concern with that precise location is that when lifting/lowering the playfield that the sign may catch onto the cabinet side and snap the sign off. I guess you could rotate the sign bracket so that it faces away from the cabinet side a bit more.

Gord

1 week later
#3794 2 years ago
Quoted from outcida:

Almost there. This one is printed in white and is using a new mounting location. There is plenty of clearance between the sign and the side of the cab. Art work is finished on the decals and it came out quite nice. This sample was just printed on regular paper and glued on to prove concept. I'll be checking into having them vinyl printed.
I need to shorten the mounting bracket a bit so it doesn't hang over the plastic.

Hi Tim,

That is a very nice looking East Dock sign mod for JP. Please let Pinsiders know when this is available for purchase. Now that the clearance issue is resolved I am definitely going to purchase one when they are available.

Thanks.

Gord

1 week later
#3823 2 years ago

Hi Tim,

That is a very nicely crafted 'East Dock' mod for JP. Thanks for changing the mounting point for this mod which should also protect it from breaking when the playfield is lifted for maintenance.

Order has been placed.

Gord

#3827 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Can someone take a pic of their left and right in and out lane areas?
I've always thought that JP was BRUTAL on the left side, come to find out, I have a small little pilot hole in my PF that is directly above the in and out lane with nothing in it. On the right side, I have a "spike" post with no rubber on it. Just trying to figure out what should be there!

Here are some photos that I had previously taken on those areas on my JP. Hopefully this helps you out.

Gord

DSCN3606 (resized).JPG
DSCN3609 (resized).JPG
DSCN0056 (resized).JPG
DSCN0055 (resized).JPG

#3831 2 years ago

Below is a photo of the 'East Dock' sign mod by Pinsider outcida. It is a nice little add-on sign for JP.

Gord

P1000655 (resized).JPG

#3840 2 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

Does the arrow move? Can you turn it to what ever direction you would like? When the shaker motor turns on does it make the arrow move a little?

LOL, honestly I have no idea.

Gord

#3841 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Yours is wrong...should not have rubber on the posts there.

So both the left and right outlane post should not have rubber on them?

Gord

2 weeks later
#3870 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

So is yoyocopter going to make these molded pieces available for purchase? I think they look killer.....

You may PM yoyokopter to purchase a JP scoop mod kit. I purchased a JP scoop mod kit from yoyokopter and the kit looks very professional. I ordered a kit on 10/27/2017 and received the JP scoop mod kit on 11/16/2017.

I haven't installed it yet, but the kit comes with very detailed installation instructions complete with photos. No soldering is required as the kit comes with small spade type connectors to connect to the existing scoop light connectors.

Gord

P1000681 (resized).JPG
P1000682 (resized).JPG
P1000683 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#3945 2 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

Does anyone have a set of Scoop Light Icon's acrylic signs that they would want to sell me? PM me please
https://loopcombo.com/products/jurassic-park-scoop-light-set

Hey Clint,

I don't have a set for sale, however I do have a lightly used set that I will send free of charge to you today via UPS. I had them on my JP for a few months and decided to go back to a stock look.

Merry Christmas and I hope you enjoy your JP Loop Combo scoop mods.

Gord

P1000715 (resized).JPG
P1000716 (resized).JPG

#3947 2 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

You sir are a saint! Thank you very much!!!!

PM sent with tracking number.

Gord

#3949 2 years ago
Quoted from SirScott:

I am curious on what you did not like about them?

I didn't say that I did not like them. I wanted to go back to a stock look on my JP and that is what I did.

Other than plastic protectors and a ceramic powerball for the dinosaur egg, my JP is now completely stock.

Gord

1 week later
#4001 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Can anyon advise on where to find endprodukt’s pinsound file? As well as the 6.0 rom? Thanks and happy holidays!

Reach out to Pinsider meloyelo51 to get the 6.0 ROMs.

Gord

#4024 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

During the resto I misplaced somewhere this plastic . Does anyone have a spare or a scan of it so I can make one myself?

Hi Rensh,

Here is a scan of the requested JP plastic. It has been scaled down in resolution by the Pinside website. If this resolution is not satisfactory I can email the full resolution scan to you if you PM me your email address.

Gord

Rail_Right_Top (resized).jpg

#4026 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Thanks, highly appreciated, but This is not the plastic I am looking for. The one I am looking for is at the right side of end of shooter lane. Just befor the wireform.
See below picture of the spot

Let's try this again. Is this the correct JP plastic scan?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/140469729@N02/38684911344/in/dateposted-public/

Gord

Shooter_Exit (resized).jpg

#4028 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Getting closer . It looks like below

OK, this one should be the winner.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/140469729@N02/38685086204/in/dateposted-public/

Gord

Rail_Right_3 (resized).jpg

#4032 2 years ago
Quoted from remf:

Is anyone able to take a hi res picture of the front cabinet? I want to fill in the lockdown bar holes and repaint it. Thanks!

Here are a couple of JP photos from the front for your references.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/140469729@N02/24532468567/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/140469729@N02/25527946188/in/dateposted-public/

Gord

P1000759 (resized).JPG
P1000761 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#4078 2 years ago
Quoted from Soapman:

The bracket is 16" long. Lower tab is 5/8". Upper tab is 1 5/8". The bend is 120 degrees. I remade it out of polished stainless steel.
Remade on top and original on bottom.

Hope this helps.

Really nice work Bill. Your reproduction looks nicer than the original.

Gord

2 weeks later
#4188 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkeyexx:

I have started doing some repairs on my JP. I just noticed the subway ramp is hanging on with one screw at the VUK and there is a wire holding the ramp by the T Rex.....can someone post a photo of how it should look? Anyone know where I can by a ramp?

Check this URL.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/35#post-2975154

Gord

#4193 1 year ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Me too. Gord used a beta address he must get to do pinside testing. Just go back to page 35 and you should find what you’re looking for.
Or drop the beta out https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/35#post-2975154

Oops, sorry about that. Thanks for providing the correct answer.

Gord

#4251 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Now I got also today an assy from a friend and when I compare mine has a spring and his not. My theory is that the spring was designed later to protect the motor. Anybody an idea? How dangerous would it be to use the construction without spring ?

Pictured below are a couple of photos of my JP for your reference.

Gord

DSCN3441 (resized).JPG
DSCN3442 (resized).JPG

3 weeks later
#4282 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Could someone do me a favor? I need a picture of the switch that is attached to the ramp in the top left corner. I am pretty sure mine is no original and rigged up and I would like to put it back the way it is supposed to be. I could not get a good enough picture of the switch on IPBD.
Thanks

Hi Lonny,

Hopefully these photos are what you need.

Gord

P1000803 (resized).JPG
P1000802 (resized).JPG
P1000801 (resized).JPG

#4293 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

Anybody know where I can score a new set of JP plastics? Seems like everyone in the U.S. is sold out.

I checked and it looks like all of the CPR distributors worldwide are also sold out of JP plastic sets.

http://www.classicplayfields.com/distributors.html

Good luck, maybe you will find someone who is holding a spare set that will be willing to part with it. You may want to drop an email to CPR to inquire if they will run JP plastic sets again as there seems to be a market for it.

Gord

#4298 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

thanks. Crack in the ramp - hard to find those. Appreciate the note.

I don't think I have ever seen an NOS or nice used JP large main plastic ramp for sale. That ramp would be a great candidate to have reproduced given that there were 9,008 units of this game produced.

Gord

3 months later
#4426 1 year ago
Quoted from altan:

If someone has a minute, could you tell me how much play the plastic VUK part has?
Occasionally mine will just start firing the solenoid. The switch seems good. I cannot reproduce it on demand. No switch errors.
However, the plastic part has a lot of horizontal wiggle / play (when playfield is down). Wondering if normal...

Hi altan,

It looks like you are missing one compression spring on your VUK which likely accounts for some of the slop/play that you are seeing with this mechanism. See the photo below of the VUK on my JP.

Also, I had a very similar issue with a VUK on my TFTC. Review this thread as it appears to be the same type of issue. I ended up purchasing a compression ring kit from Marco and installing it which fixed the issue 100 percent on my TFTC.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tftc-vuk-issue

Gord

P1000990 (resized).JPG

1 month later
#4446 1 year ago
Quoted from elfyhead:

Does anybody have a picture of how the topper attaches to the bracket on the top of the backbox? I finally broke down and bought a repro topper, but I can't for the life of me work out how it can attach to the bracket. That is unless I actually drill holes in the topper, which I'm hesitant to do.

Below are a couple of photos of my topper attached to my JP. The JP topper is attached with 4 screws as shown in the photo. There is no bracket as the metal piece is a light reflector for the light flashers behind it.

Gord

P1010011 (resized).JPG
DSCN3386 (resized).JPG

2 months later
#4583 1 year ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

Where would the service bulletins be posted?

There are quite a few SB's at the following URL.

http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/bulletins.htm

Gord

1 month later
#4648 1 year ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Can someone take out one of the screws holding the two halfs of the gun together? I have a nos gun, but no hardware. So i dont know what size machine screw is needed.
[quoted image]

Hi LL,

In the event that you haven't already seen the following excerpt from the JP manual you may want to review the 2-page PDF below.

Gord

JP_Gun_Handle.pdf

#4657 1 year ago

I see that there are some blue JP slingshot plastics available. I know that previously there have been some JP owners looking for the blue slingshot plastics. It looks like there are 5 of the JP blue slingshot plastics (2 complete sets + an extra left side slingshot plastic) and 4 of the JP orange slingshot plastics (2 complete sets).

Note that I am not the seller of these plastics. The seller is widebodyguy.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/various-slingshot-and-other-plastics

Gord

#4674 1 year ago
Quoted from tomterlec:

I'm looking for the plastic that runs from the VUK all the way up behind the upper flipper. I think it's one piece? If anyone has a new or used one they are willing to sell, PM me.
[quoted image]

Just an FYI, it is actually two plastic pieces as shown in the photos below.

Gord

P1010110 (resized).JPG
P1010109 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#4710 1 year ago
Quoted from jugood20:

Hi, I am looking for a part that keeps the playfield on its track. I’ve included a picture - I looked through the manual but can’t seem to find the part name - does anyone know where I can find this? Thanks !
[quoted image]

You may want to review this old thread on the same issue.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-playfield-pivot-bracket-500-5329-00-needed

Gord

#4736 1 year ago

In October of 2012 I purchased a BSD reproduction translite from 'Arcade Overlays' and it was of very high quality. I would definitely recommend getting a reproduction translite from them.

Gord

#4747 1 year ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I appreciate everyone's mod suggestions. (If there are more, keep em comin')
I am planning on getting new apron cards too. What/where are the best ones found? Suggestions? I saw a "newman" one with the guy off Seinfeld. That was cool.

I purchased some JP apron cards from pinsider mikonos which are shown below. The cards are printed on a chrome vinyl card stock and look really nice.

Gord

P1010153 (resized).JPG
P1010152 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#4776 1 year ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Thanks Davi!
My white/purp wire was off AND touching the green wire lug. I BET that’s my issue.

In addition to the photo provided by davi there is a high resolution photo below of the requested area from my JP photo archive. Be sure to click on the photo a couple of times for a zoomed in view.

Gord

DSCN3442 (resized).JPG

#4777 1 year ago

Duplicate post

#4780 1 year ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys, my JP is missing the topper. I see there are repros for 150 bucks.
Is it worth it? I see there are lights up there. It must light up. Thoughts?

Hi BB,

The topper itself does not light up, however, there are flashers on top of the cabinet with a stainless steel reflection bar that directs the flasher lights towards the topper so that during gameplay the flashers do indeed flash onto the topper. While not in the same league as the WH2O topper for a WOW effect, a JP that is missing the topper seems incomplete to me.

Reproduction toppers are available from rock914 at the following URL. The reproduction toppers are very well done and true to the original toppers.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1015-rock-custom-pinball/00741-jurassic-park-topper

Gord

#4783 1 year ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

All good advice guys. Thanks.
I'll likely grab one. Seems like the lights up top need it!
Does the topper just screw onto the top?

Yes, the topper screws into the top of the backbox as shown in one of the photos below. Also, you may want to talk with @rock914 (Chris Travis) about adding LED's to the topper (add LED to the T-Rex's eye). Chris added LED lighting to my TFTC topper which turned out really nice as shown in the video below.

Gord

DSCN3386 (resized).JPG
DSCN3385 (resized).JPG

#4790 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Actually there are 3 GI bulbs that light the topper, which are lit all the time except when the backbox blinks while waiting to plunge and 2 flashers that fire during play, like shown in the photo above. (Maybe your topper GI bulbs are out?) When the GI blinks while waiting to plunge, you get a great shadow effect on the topper.
The JP at my local arcade in '93 had the topper, so it's the only way to go IMHO.

Dang, you are correct that the 3 middle bulbs are GI bulbs that light the topper. I didn't even know that, but I just confirmed it. Thanks for the tip.

Gord

3 weeks later
#4894 1 year ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys I noticed that my left jet bumper light will lite with all other lites on it’s row.
Am I correct to assume that one of the diodes on that row is shorted?
Also, where are the lamp diodes for a bumper??

Hi BB,

Are you talking about the left and right inlane inserts being lit? If so see the following posts by chadh who created the 6.0 version of the JP game ROM.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/12#post-2526802

Gord

3 weeks later
#5019 11 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

2. How does the menu work on this thing. The system is not self explanatory like it is on the 4 button Stern/Bally/Williams systems.

Watch the first few minutes (starting at 1:15) of the following YouTube video for an explanation of the DE service buttons and how they work.

Gord

#5028 11 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Got a cool 20 minute 2$ mod that I think makes a difference. As I was LEDing my new machine earlier today I noticed the pop bumper caps have a raised Jurassic Park logo on them. Cool! I don't know if that's standard, but mine do. I carefully painted the logo and now I have cool custom pop bumpers! Give it a shot![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nicely done, Marco also sells something very similar.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/550-5056-01-D

Gord

1 week later
#5168 11 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

daditude Thank you! Snagged the last one. Now the kids can hammer on the broken one until it fully breaks.

That looks like it is from the Mad Amusements seller. See the URL below.

http://mad-amusements.com/product.php?id_product=125

There are a lot of postings on Pinside regarding this business so it is buyer beware when doing business with him.

Gord

3 weeks later
#5398 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Attached are all of my custom coin inserts for Jurassic Park.
Download PDF, print and full size on 8.5" x 11" paper (do not scale and do not check "fit to page" in Acrobat), cutout, and install.
FYI, I learned that all you have to do to remove the coin insert pieces is to remove the two screws at top on the inside of the coin door for each of the left and the right inserts. I made the mistake on my first try of starting with the bottom two screws and dropping the whole mech off the door which was completely unnecessary.
[quoted image]

Do you print these on regular paper stock or photo paper stock?

Gord

3 weeks later
#5607 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've asked before, but will try again. Can anyone please provide me with or point me to either an outline or scan of the plastic above the middle target bank. I would like to create a new one since mine is broken (came that way when I purchased the pin).
[quoted image]

I have the following two scans of the requested JP plastic that I chased down from various Pinside users who were generous enough to help me out when I was working with Pinbits to get plastic protectors created for JP a few years ago. Pinsider markp99 provided a complete set of JP plastic scans and Pinsider winteriscoming also provided several JP plastic scans for me at the time.

Hopefully these two JP plastic scans help you out.

Gord

Pop_Bumper (resized).jpg
129606 (resized).jpg

#5621 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can somebody tell me what this hole is for? There is nothing on my game that lines up with it.[quoted image]

Below is a photo of that plastic on my JP. As others have stated that extra hole in the plastic is for the clear plastic post shown in the photo below. My guess is that this clear plastic post serves to keep airballs from getting stuck on top of this plastic.

Gord

P1010257 (resized).JPG

1 month later
#6004 8 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

sooo JP god's... I just finished shopping out my JP and bringing it back to factory (except for the captive ball which I did keep as the white ball) and my poor PF holes that were covered by cliffy's but I got tired of get cliffied on so many shots so I ripped them off.
BUT i've got a 3/4" metal hex spacer, double female, that was in my parts bucket and I purchased a new one from Terry and now I can't figure out where it goes... metal hex spacer = tall 6 sided spacer/post/thingy that screws into a PF post and has a screw go into the top of it.
anything?

How about this one? It is a ball trap preventer next to one of the pop bumpers.

Gord

DSCN3593 - Circle (resized).JPG
DSCN3595 - Circle (resized).JPG

1 month later
#6444 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Crap, does anyone have this decal? Or want to make one? I bought all of the decals like 5 years ago and thought I had them but this is the only one I am missing. I have a spare one for the t-rex box side which looks like it might work decent there, so if nothing else i'll use that (and bay area has those in stock). I can't even find that decal pictured at any seller.[quoted image]

These were posted on Pinside a while back by a fellow Pinsider (not sure who).

Gord

Jurassic_Park_Decals (resized).JPG

#6462 7 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

That's great on the bar measurements. Only other helpful info would be placement & size of holes.

Here are a couple of photos from my JP photo archive that may help with regards to installation placement.

Gord

DSCN3386 (resized).JPG
DSCN3387 (resized).JPG

3 months later
#7059 3 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

My vote:[quoted image]

As I recall the diodes were moved off the scoop switches there as the vibration would cause the diode connection to break.

Gord

2 months later
#7232 17 days ago
Quoted from Turdbol:

I’m going to ask a “noob” question here, but what is this component (white) and are they supposed to get pretty hot?[quoted image]

Yes, they will get pretty darn hot. Follow the URL below which offers a bit more detail.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/139#post-5179747

Gord

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