Jurassic Park club

I am still figuring out stuff on my JP, so here is a very basic question. Is the shooter rod supposed to have a rubber tip? Mine came without one, and the rod itself is plastic. I bought a set of replacement rubbers for the game and it came with a shooter tip, but the rod guide is too narrow for the rubber to fit.

White plastic (maybe vinyl or something? ) plunger tip is correct.

That's odd. I've never seen a plastic rod. Always metal.

This is the autolaunch solenoid vs a standard shooter. Narrow plastic tip is correct.

Oh, duh! Nevermind...

Great, thanks for confirmation that what is there is correct.

Following my last post on the former page, where one of the leafs on the eos-switch is broken:

I am starting to rebuild my flippers, and while taking pre-operation photos, I see that on the lugs of the EOS switch there are the remains of two wires that have been cut.. does anybody else have this on theirs? Could someone be so kind and post some photos of their flipper assemblies?

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And here is the other end of the wires. I cant undestand the logic/reason of doing this...hmm

Cut Eos wires1.jpg

Lookie what I got from my parents for Christmas...

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I remember someone saying recently that they bought a game from someone who cuts off all their EOS switches so they get more power out of the flippers. "Just don't hold the button down too long it you'll fry the coil." Smh.

Have the schematics handy? I might be able to get a pic, but not until tonight.

Sweet! Perfect fit, too!

Yeah I read some similar threads and it was mentioned that cutting of the eos wires will make the flippers have constant high power, as opposed to only getting high power when the all is flung from a kickback? Or I might have read it wrong.

Schematics, sortof, I found this in the manual on page 67, but need some time learning to interpret it correctly.Ill gladly take some tips

jp_manual_p67.jpg

unless I am very much mistaken, my understanding (explanation I found and received by asking here) is that DE coils have only single coil, not two, and it is always powered by cpu which control the voltage, so you can't fry your flippers even if you hold it without EOS switches. then again if your flipper board is hacked I guess they could have in theory just override it and connect with 50 volts directly so there is no low holding voltage.

I've never had any flipper power trouble.

Time for a cleaning or rebuild or electrical check?

Hi!
Just wanted to ask if some of you JP owners could check one thing for me:

When you start the game, along with the T-Rex testing, is it normal that the raptor coils "locks on" for a second or two, before retracting, as if it is testing itself?

Last time I had replaced the Q4, tip36, upon starting the game the coil locked on for some seconds before unlocking. The coil did not burn, but already the tip36 had gotten toasted.
Have replaced Q4, Q30 and fuses, and will start the game with a new coil tomorrow, so just thought Ill know if th raptor is self-testing or not.

It shouldn't do that.

As far I can figure the game doesn't have a way of self testing the raptor kick-back. There aren't any limit switches like it uses on the T-Rex left/right/center and up/down. For that matter, even though the T-rex chomps during the initial test, I don't think the game has a way of knowing if that's working either.

Thanks for the input!
Never mind what just wrote in this post (edit), my raptor is now officially working again! Finally!

Now only the minor stuff remains. Left flipper loosing grip when hit by raptor ball because of the previous owners hack, and such easy stuff

Hope to join soon. any one know of a JP for sale in my area let me know.

Joined the club in late December officially, but just got it moved into it's new position and finished a full tear down shop and LED treatment the other day. Great game -- would love to find a topper!

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I almost left the club and glad I did not. I sold a different game to fund my Metallica.

That looks great, gotta have a go at it! Did you come across any major problems or was it fairly straight forward?

It looks nice. What are you using to light the backboard and where is the light source mounted? What did you use to cut the acrylic? I used a table saw for mine, but it tended to melt the acrylic as much as cut it. Your cuts look much cleaner than mine.

Your T-Rex with the pinball in its mouth is great. That cracks me up.

If someone were to cut acrylic just like that for JP, then I'd be interested in buying one.

I had this cut by a company here in NZ and it was $10 for the piece of acrylic and for them to cut it. When drilling use an electric drill with a blunt drill bit going very fast(Drill goes fast but you go slow). Its not the tip thats the problem but the edges of the drill bit, if they bind on the acrylic it will crack. I was told to almost melt your way through. Have the acrylic hard down on some wood to avoid binding on the way out. Make any holes that screws are screwing into the playfield "float" through the acrylic.
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Remember its the head of the screw holding the acrylic not the thread.

I also drilled all the way through for all the holes to avoid any doubt of the screws binding up at the ends.
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Also the drill used for the screws holding the background image to the acrylic has to be almost the same size as the thread. Only a very very fine amount of thread is to cut its way into the acrylic.
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Im not sure if this is necessary but it avoids any doubt.
Hope this helps

Thanks for taking the time to post that, very helpful

That really does look terrific. Where did you get the image?

A new/old issue I thought to ask for help on;

My JP is working quite good, except 2 issues:

1. It seems to have a problem with the VUK on putting balls into play in multiball.
I get tri-ball, and it sometimes spit all balls out, sometimes jsut two balls.
When those two balls drain, it does not realize it hasnt kicked out the last ball lying in the VUK. I have to open the door and manually push the VUK-coil up for the ball to come into play. We are having a tournament next friday and I really want to have this fixed until them.

Anyone with the same problem/ some experience on this issue?

JP does not have optos, so I really dont know what is the problem. And the ball is always lying in the VUK, it just seems that it doesnt understand that theres a ball in the VUK, which it is supposed to kick into the plunger lane.

2. Last thing which was new and happened this evening, the autoplunger suddenly did not manage to kick the ball out from the plunger lane. It was if it did not have enough strengt, and it kicked the ball like 10-20 cms up, and then it fell down again and so it went on. After 10-15 tries it managed to get the ball out of the plunger lane but with poor strength. any idea/similar experience?

Here is the possible solution for #1:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-ball-trough-fix-video-jplahtftctommywwfrrgnr

Are you referring to me? Its the factory image at the back of the playfield. Its so dark back there no one would even notice. Baffles me that data east made this out of plastic the covered up the back with wood. Ill post soon about lights and power supply

As Smerff said its there but you never notice, I had to go and check!!

Mine had this problem when I got it and one of the mounting screws for the plunger assembly had worked out causing it to not be alinged to the shooter lane properly.

Hmm thats it one of the things Im suspecting, thanks for the input, i will check this out further tomorrow.

Smerff, Matt - That image is there in the back! Clearly needs some lighting.

Hey does anyone know if you can get pinballs like these?
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The planet one would be cool for JP

those do not look real. i dont think they exist.

No I dont believe they are real but can you get balls like these or similar?

I am looking for an original Topper for a long time. If I find one the price was extremly high for it. Here are some pictures of my alternative Topper. The six "flames" are made of artificial LED-flames from candles. Hope you like it.

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Nice! You need a couple more flames on the top like the movie. Are the exciting flames wired in to the flash lamps youve covered up?

MCV, if you can make that topper into a functional replacement for the ramp gate I'll gladly pay you for the item and the effort

You're right. I saw the first movie on TV last weekend. The two flames on top are missing on this model. I will possibly add them.

I am not sure if i understand that question right. The flames are wired with an external power device. Here are some pictures of the details.

Thats what i thought first when i found the model. But unfortunately it's much to big to replace the ramp gate

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any one have the xpin white dmd with the green filter? wondering how it looks.

At this point for JP you can't beat an LCD with DMD Extender. It doesn't require too much work to install and would be cheaper than an LED display. I highly recommend it.

Inching closer and closer to finally picking up a JP. Any one care to share a pic of their playfield with full LEDs and let me know the order list? Mostly cuz im lazy...lol. thanks.

Anyone ever encountered an issue like this with the ball trough in JP? (See video) Notice how the balls don't move forward until the force of a draining ball pushes them. I've opened up the trough several times and can't find anything binding nor are there any divots in the trough. Maybe a code update would fix this

whats your playfield angle at?

Around 6.5

everybody! I've worked on it quite a bit but still having issues.

Worth a shot...sorry.