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(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8,393 posts
  • 474 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by KSUWildcatFan
  • Topic is favorited by 196 Pinsiders

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There are 8393 posts in this topic. You are on page 167 of 168.
#8301 44 days ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Does anyone have a lead on a great condition PF? Great to me means little to no scoop wear and good oranges/reds

Been looking haven't seen much.
CPR had it on a interest list for while but they aren't doing that anymore, don't know what happened from there on.

#8302 44 days ago
Quoted from scootss:

I need to do a touch-up on the inside of my cabinet. What type of black paint to use? Any particular techniques to be aware of?

Quoted from scootss:

Thanks. Would you happen to know if this is the original style? I just want to do a touch-up, not a full repaint.

I had very nice success touching up minor dings and scrapes inside (and outside) my JP cabinet using a paper towel, with a wipe-on wipe-off approach. The paint seems to stick to the necessary areas and wipes off the painted areas; no excess/brush marks. There really is no visible difference between touched and untouched areas. Used rustoleum satin black from a half-pint can.

The same approach work beautifully on the small amount of planking on the cabinet exterior. They are now fully invisible.

#8304 43 days ago
Quoted from markp99:

I had very nice success touching up minor dings and scrapes inside (and outside) my JP cabinet using a paper towel, with a wipe-on wipe-off approach. The paint seems to stick to the necessary areas and wipes off the painted areas; no excess/brush marks. There really is no visible difference between touched and untouched areas. Used rustoleum satin black from a half-pint can.

Thanks very much. Picked up that rustoleum based on another recommendation but will give the paper towel a shot.

#8305 43 days ago
Quoted from markp99:

I had very nice success touching up minor dings and scrapes inside (and outside) my JP cabinet using a paper towel, with a wipe-on wipe-off approach. The paint seems to stick to the necessary areas and wipes off the painted areas; no excess/brush marks. There really is no visible difference between touched and untouched areas. Used rustoleum satin black from a half-pint can.
The same approach work beautifully on the small amount of planking on the cabinet exterior. They are now fully invisible.

I tried this and have to respectfully disagree with your claim of "fully invisible" if you are recommending enamel vs latex - you didn't specify. Rustoleum has both. I chose oil-based satin black enamel because it's more durable when cured. It's true that color's pigment/density off the shelf is a close match to the original, but whenever the slightest light reflections come into play they stand out as obvious. Rustoleum's black satin finish appears flat against the glossier stock DE paint (even after it's aged for 27 years). The original has much more of a semi-gloss finish. Touched up areas on mine are now visible and noticeably duller when light catches them at various angles. I'm letting mine cure for a couple of weeks then will try buffing out the touched up spots in hopes they will blend in better and be less obvious. If so, I'll post results if anyone is interested.

#8306 43 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

. If so, I'll post results if anyone is interested.

Please do!

#8307 43 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/bulletins.htm
I think it is number 54, covers flipper dropping out due to EOS issues. I have one DE game that will randomly drop out a flipper and I'm going to do this mod. New switch and in 10 games will get dirty and act up again.
Cleaning restores function but 10 games later more or less acts up again. The other side functions perfect.
You can verify its the EOS circuit by putting a jumper across the switch and see if problem goes away, careful not to hold the flipper button in.

I'm curious if anyone has ever had DE/Stern "Flippers/End of Stroke Failures" technical service bulletin mod #54 done to their JP flipper control board, either by themselves or a previous owner. I have this problem on my DE JP as well as a number of other owners. The bulletin's fix is supposed to cure spontaneous/intermittent lower flipper drop out due to "invisible blade cracking inside the EOS switches". It does not recommend changing out the switches if the owner opts to do the control board mod. I became suspicious when I took apart the EOS switches on mine and found no such "cracking" in the blades. So I'd be very interested to know if the mod actually solved the problem for anyone else. Thanks.

Copy of bulletin #54: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-flipper-board-updates

#8308 43 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

I tried this and have to respectfully disagree with your claim of "fully invisible" if you are recommending enamel vs latex - you didn't specify. Rustoleum has both. I chose oil-based satin black enamel because it's more durable when cured. It's true that color's pigment/density off the shelf is a close match to the original, but whenever the slightest light reflections come into play they stand out as obvious. Rustoleum's black satin finish appears flat against the glossier stock DE paint (even after it's aged for 27 years). The original has much more of a semi-gloss finish. Touched up areas on mine are now visible and noticeably duller when light catches them at various angles. I'm letting mine cure for a couple of weeks then will try buffing out the touched up spots in hopes they will blend in better and be less obvious. If so, I'll post results if anyone is interested.

Which is why I just fogged the whole area. Finishes of black are extremely difficult to match perfect and if you can just paint corner to corner so much better off. It will all be even then.

#8309 43 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

I tried this and have to respectfully disagree with your claim of "fully invisible" if you are recommending enamel vs latex - you didn't specify. Rustoleum has both.

Hmm, my results are still invisible. I went down int the basement just now to confirm. I actually used "Valspar Satin Black Latex" in a 1/2 pint can. There's also a rattle can down there - I have never used.

I've been touching rusty spots up our camper's frame this week - THAT'S where Rustoleum was used. Sorry any confusion.

#8310 42 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

I'm curious if anyone has ever had DE/Stern "Flippers/End of Stroke Failures" technical service bulletin mod #54 done to their JP flipper control board.

Yup, it wasn't too bad but I can solder pretty good.

You can search this whole thread for "54" and a few other posts come up of others who have done it w/ photos.
I didn't have any issues to begin with but I was just bulletproofing.

#8311 42 days ago

Hello,

I present to you my Jurassic, fully restored, Playfield protector, pinsound plus pack, pin2dmd, new cabinet decals, etc...

Kiss from France

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#8312 42 days ago

Glad my question about cabinet painting has causes so many different responses

In case anyone is interested...the rest of the story is that I need to clean up the area near the backbox hinge bolt (pic below). The small plastic disc is missing and there is a prior adhesive covering the spot. I have the plastic disc...but first I need to sand a little bit to get off the adhesive and then paint.

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#8313 42 days ago

Cant you use alcohol?

#8314 42 days ago

It's quite stubborn, but I'll give it a shot and report back.

#8315 42 days ago
Quoted from Cooky77950:

Hello,
I present to you my Jurassic, fully restored, Playfield protector, pinsound plus pack, pin2dmd, new cabinet decals, etc...
Kiss from France
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Stunning. Beautiful work. Congrats.

#8316 42 days ago

Hey JP friends!

So I had a few friends over the other weekend, and the youngsters we're having a ton of fun playing with the machine. After they left I played a few games and noticed that the right flipper just didn't seem like it had the same "juice" as it did before? I tried it again the next day and still it's just not nearly as strong as the left one.

Both flippers still rest in the proper spot, but when I hold the buttons in on both, the right one just doesn't nearly go as high as the left. See pictures.

Is there something I can adjust or fix to help with this, or am I better off doing a full flipper rebuild? Appreciate the help!

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#8317 41 days ago

Look at the stops under the playfield

#8318 41 days ago

I checked the coil stop, and it looks just fine - no missing rivets or anything. It's slightly punched in but nothing that I think would cause this kind of issue. Also, if this was the culprit, wouldn't that mean the left flipper would be the one that's working incorrectly, as opposed to the right one which isn't feeling right?

I did notice that the small black rubber stopper that the flipper rests on while it's resting on the "notched" coil stop (when the flipper is down) seems to be incredibly warn down. I'm wondering if replacing this would help because the flipper wouldn't be traveling as far?

#8319 41 days ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

I checked the coil stop, and it looks just fine - no missing rivets or anything. It's slightly punched in but nothing that I think would cause this kind of issue. Also, if this was the culprit, wouldn't that mean the left flipper would be the one that's working incorrectly, as opposed to the right one which isn't feeling right?
I did notice that the small black rubber stopper that the flipper rests on while it's resting on the "notched" coil stop (when the flipper is down) seems to be incredibly warn down. I'm wondering if replacing this would help because the flipper wouldn't be traveling as far?

The right flipper would be sagging lower than the left at rest if the rubber was the culprit.
Both flippers have "coil stops" so the left flipper has nothing to do with it.
The coil stop is the piece that the plunger hits when its engaged. The piece that it rests on is not a "coil stop".

Rebuilding the flippers on an old game is usually not a bad idea anyway, I can probably help with that but you should check all parts on the right flipper and make sure it operates smoothly by hand.

#8320 41 days ago

This piece at the end with the brass ring is the "coil stop".
If the nub on that moves at all its bad, it should be tight.

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#8321 40 days ago

If anyone's looking for some nice scoop bulb covers that aren't quite as expensive as the Loop Combi set (which are awesome if you dont mind the cost), I present these alternatives:

I 3D print them from translucent filament, color/paint the icons, and glue in the color bulb of your choice. Bulbs optional, designed to fit Comet 1SMD NG bulbs. They light up beautifully, nicer than the photos show. Plug and play, no modifications required.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/04290-scoop-bulb-covers-for-jurassic-park-de

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#8322 40 days ago

Does anyone need a Trex body and lower jaw plastic housings? I'm cleaning off my parts shelf and have an extra set. PM me if you need them and will work something out. Thanks!

#8323 39 days ago

I have a problem with the machine which I tried to solve in the last few weeks but could not. If someone can help me, I'll be most grateful.

The 'music' stops in the middle of the game.
Only the 'noise' remains. In 'noise' I mean the reaction of the machine to the ball, for example, the sound of dinosaurs when the ball pass in the inlanes or when a new Screen starts.
Then after some time, the music returns.
Then disappears again.
Many times, the machine even restarts itself in the middle of a game.

This is the problem.

I tried to diagnose:

First thing, I looked at all the wires connecting to the speakers and replaced the ones that were very damaged. However, the problem remained.

Second, I disconnected (I actually cut) the 4 wires connecting to the header speakers (2 wires to each speaker), so actually these 2 speakers were disconnected and only the cabinet speaker was wired and working. The problem still happened.

Third, I also disconnected the wires to the cabinet speaker. Now the game had no speakers and it played without noise.
The problem disappeared. At least the problem of the machine restarting itself as there was no music and no 'noise' that could disappear anyway

Fourth, I wired again the header speakers.
I must tell you that it caused the machine to sound very 'robotic', metallic and unpleasant.
But as regard to the problem it returned. The music disappeared during play and the machine restarted itself.

What do you suggest me to do next? What should I look for? How will you go on and diagnosed?

Any help will be appreciated

#8324 39 days ago
Quoted from Yaron:

I have a problem with the machine which I tried to solve in the last few weeks but could not. If someone can help me, I'll be most grateful.
The 'music' stops in the middle of the game.
Only the 'noise' remains. In 'noise' I mean the reaction of the machine to the ball, for example, the sound of dinosaurs when the ball pass in the inlanes or when a new Screen starts.
Then after some time, the music returns.
Then disappears again.
Many times, the machine even restarts itself in the middle of a game.
This is the problem.
I tried to diagnose:
First thing, I looked at all the wires connecting to the speakers and replaced the ones that were very damaged. However, the problem remained.
Second, I disconnected (I actually cut) the 4 wires connecting to the header speakers (2 wires to each speaker), so actually these 2 speakers were disconnected and only the cabinet speaker was wired and working. The problem still happened.
Third, I also disconnected the wires to the cabinet speaker. Now the game had no speakers and it played without noise.
The problem disappeared. At least the problem of the machine restarting itself as there was no music and no 'noise' that could disappear anyway
Fourth, I wired again the header speakers.
I must tell you that it caused the machine to sound very 'robotic', metallic and unpleasant.
But as regard to the problem it returned. The music disappeared during play and the machine restarted itself.
What do you suggest me to do next? What should I look for? How will you go on and diagnosed?
Any help will be appreciated

Check power supply and connectors there.

#8325 39 days ago

Check/replace the capacitors on the sound board, along with checking the power supply voltages and connectors as suggested above. You will need a voltmeter.

#8326 38 days ago

Thank you. I'll check and update on progress

#8327 38 days ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Might want to try resoldering the diode on that switch. Three times already, I've had that switch get intermittent and then stop completely -- twice it was the diode coming loose, and one time it was the wire itself. (I need to just remove all the solder from that joint and start fresh, lol)

Amusing/annoying followup ... it happened again last night, and this time I resolved to stop band-aiding it and do a better job with the fix.

I was more right than I realized ... because this time, the tab completely broke off the switch!

New switch on order...

#8328 37 days ago

I’m in!

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#8329 37 days ago

Does anyone know where I can find the Amber Mosquito? Can it be reproduced?

My JP is missing it unfortunately.

Thanks

#8330 37 days ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Amusing/annoying followup ... it happened again last night, and this time I resolved to stop band-aiding it and do a better job with the fix.
I was more right than I realized ... because this time, the tab completely broke off the switch!
New switch on order...

I was having trouble with that switch and I ended up eliminating the solder and using crimp connectors. I haven't had a problem since. No matter now good of a job I did soldering it always eventually cracked. Just make sure your connectors are tight.

#8331 37 days ago
Quoted from Bhieken:

I was having trouble with that switch and I ended up eliminating the solder and using crimp connectors. I haven't had a problem since. No matter now good of a job I did soldering it always eventually cracked. Just make sure your connectors are tight.

That's a good idea, thanks for the suggestion. What about the diode? Did you feed that into the connectors too?

#8332 36 days ago

I am brand new to this site. I purchase a JP 2 years ago. It has been working great but recently developed a problem. When the ball is ejected in to the chute, the mechanism that kicks the ball into the chute fires an additional four times even though it has already done its job. Until it has done this, I cannot fire the ball into the play field (nor does the raptor appear on the digital screen until it has done this). Any suggestions?

#8333 35 days ago
Quoted from TimTroj:

I am brand new to this site. I purchase a JP 2 years ago. It has been working great but recently developed a problem. When the ball is ejected in to the chute, the mechanism that kicks the ball into the chute fires an additional four times even though it has already done its job. Until it has done this, I cannot fire the ball into the play field (nor does the raptor appear on the digital screen until it has done this). Any suggestions?

It almost sounds like the shooter lane switch is not detecting a ball in the shooter lane right away. You may want to test that switch using a ball in the switch tests from the diagnostic menu. If it is inconsistent you may need to either adjust or replace the shooter lane switch.

Gord

#8334 35 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Check/replace the capacitors on the sound board, along with checking the power supply voltages and connectors as suggested above. You will need a voltmeter.

I spent free more days on checking the wires. No luck...

I have a voltmeter. But I do not what exactly to check in the capacitors or how. Same for checking the power supply.
I'm a bit dummy here. Can you please give me a reference?

#8335 35 days ago

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega is the place to go for info.

A capacitor tester is a different device than a multimeter. Since you don't have one, look closely at the capacitors. Are any swollen or blown apart? Are there crystals around or under a capacitor - that would indicate the capacitor has leaked and needs replaced.

Using the voltmeter, you put one lead on ground, and the other on the test points on the board - the schematic will show the expected voltages. Make sure you know whether you're looking at DC or AC voltages and set the meter accordingly.

#8336 34 days ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

That's a good idea, thanks for the suggestion. What about the diode? Did you feed that into the connectors too?

Actually the diode is remotely soldered from the switch. This wasn't my work it came this way. I could be mistaken on which switch you're talking about. The switch between the two scoops has the remote mounted diode and that's the one that I added connectors to. The switch under the left scoop has a diode soldered in but there's a dab of hot glue over it. That wasn't my work as I haven't had problems with that switch so maybe the hot glue is also a good idea. Hope this helps.

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#8337 32 days ago
Quoted from Bhieken:

Actually the diode is remotely soldered from the switch. This wasn't my work it came this way. I could be mistaken on which switch you're talking about. The switch between the two scoops has the remote mounted diode and that's the one that I added connectors to. The switch under the left scoop has a diode soldered in but there's a dab of hot glue over it. That wasn't my work as I haven't had problems with that switch so maybe the hot glue is also a good idea. Hope this helps.
[quoted image]

Such great timing that you'd post this because I was just about to re-post a question I'd never gotten a definitive answer to: I have these two random wires hanging down that aren't connected to anything and they were driving me crazy. Everything works on the game so I didnt know what they were for. Based on yours, maybe mine was wired the same at some point but then was later set up with a standard switch/wiring.

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#8338 31 days ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Such great timing that you'd post this because I was just about to re-post a question I'd never gotten a definitive answer to: I have these two random wires hanging down that aren't connected to anything and they were driving me crazy. Everything works on the game so I didnt know what they were for. Based on yours, maybe mine was wired the same at some point but then was later set up with a standard switch/wiring.[quoted image][quoted image]

The color coding on the wires match , I'll bet that's what it is. You have wires from a diode that go no where so as long as that diode is good I would use the wires and set it up like mine. But now on yours I see the two wires on the 1 lug all the way to the right , where do those go ? Because I don't have that.

#8339 30 days ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

The right flipper would be sagging lower than the left at rest if the rubber was the culprit.
Both flippers have "coil stops" so the left flipper has nothing to do with it.
The coil stop is the piece that the plunger hits when its engaged. The piece that it rests on is not a "coil stop".
Rebuilding the flippers on an old game is usually not a bad idea anyway, I can probably help with that but you should check all parts on the right flipper and make sure it operates smoothly by hand.

After continued tweaking with the flippers, I think a full rebuild just makes the most sense. I know the previous owner had it for almost 20 years, and while it didn't get a TON of play, the flippers definitely weren't rebuilt at any time.

I've done some digging in this thread, and am seeing that the kit by Macro Specialties (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-6306-20) seems to be a good option. I'm also going to grab some rubber grommets (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5105-00), as mine are mostly shot. I noticed the kit doesn't include new coils, should I be picking up these as well? Anything else that would be beneficial to replace (flipper wise) while I'm rebuilding them?

#8340 30 days ago

You should not need new coils. Replace the rubber on the flippers while you’re at it.

#8341 29 days ago

Suddenly, I have no play field surface lamps working on the lower half (from bunker down thru outlines). Could someone provide direction as to where to look or check? Maybe a connector, but which one? Nothing appears amiss. All other functions work fine. I just finished installing Titan rings and new flipper bats. Thanks for any advice.

#8342 29 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

Suddenly, I have no play field surface lamps working on the lower half (from bunker down thru outlines). Could someone provide direction as to where to look or check? Maybe a connector, but which one? Nothing appears amiss. All other functions work fine. I just finished installing Titan rings and new flipper bats. Thanks for any advice.

The 9 pin connector on the PPB top left and the 9 pin connector upper right on the power board.

#8343 28 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

The 9 pin connector on the PPB top left and the 9 pin connector upper right on the power board.

Will definitely check each of those. Thanks.

#8344 28 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

The 9 pin connector on the PPB top left and the 9 pin connector upper right on the power board.

PinHero gdonovan to the rerscue again! Checked both connectors. Can't believe I didn't spot this awful hack on the PPB sooner. Someone did a sloppy job using 2 connectors with spliced wires to replace it. Notice the #F3 5A fuse in the bank below it is blown too. I'll be busy fixin' this one. Also found a burn mark on the power board's 9-pin connector. Does that one look bad enough to replace? Thanks!

PPB Hack (resized).jpgpwr bd conn (resized).jpg
#8345 28 days ago

If anyone has a clear photo of the correct PPB nine pin connector with the correct wiring, I would very much appreciate seeing it posted for comparison's sake. I don't trust the way the wires on this one are arranged. Looks like one is missing. Thx

#8346 28 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

PinHero gdonovan to the rerscue again! Checked both connectors. Can't believe I didn't spot this awful hack on the PPB sooner. Someone did a sloppy job using 2 connectors with spliced wires to replace it. Notice the #F3 5A fuse in the bank below it is blown too. I'll be busy fixin' this one. Also found a burn mark on the power board's 9-pin connector. Does that one look bad enough to replace? Thanks![quoted image][quoted image]

The connectors and HD terminals are cheap, I keep several sets on hand. GPE would be my first choice for parts and Marco if Ed is out of stock or tied up at the moment.

#8347 27 days ago

I finished the repair today on the PPD hack using a new IDC connector and header. I have the hand insertion tool and parts I had ordered from pinballlife. All lights work great now! Probably go the same route for replacing the burnt molex connector on the power board since I already have the IDC parts in stock.

#8348 24 days ago

So while attempting to install a new post on the far left pop number, I think I'm realizing that my machine isn't exactly "stock" when it comes to this part of the playfield.

I've done some looking at other pictures for comparison, and it seems like all other machines only have one post at the left of the bumper and not a SECOND one on the right like mine does? See picture for the hole where it gets installed.

I'd like to have my machine as stock as possible, so I am thinking of not re-installing it, but I'm worried about the ball hitting the screw hole and acting erratic? Also, from a visual standpoint it looks kinda janky with the a hole just sitting on the playfield like that. Pretty bummed about it, but am trying to think of ways to remedy this. Any tips from fellow JP owners?

PXL_20201109_213929008 (resized).jpg

#8349 24 days ago

I'll have to check later but I think the post the rubber is on is supposed to be a star post, i had an issue with balls sneaking through there and getting stuck when I first got mine which is why someone put an extra post there on yours I guess.
The holes probably won't affect ball travel.

#8350 24 days ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

So while attempting to install a new post on the far left pop number, I think I'm realizing that my machine isn't exactly "stock" when it comes to this part of the playfield.
I've done some looking at other pictures for comparison, and it seems like all other machines only have one post at the left of the bumper and not a SECOND one on the right like mine does? See picture for the hole where it gets installed.
I'd like to have my machine as stock as possible, so I am thinking of not re-installing it, but I'm worried about the ball hitting the screw hole and acting erratic? Also, from a visual standpoint it looks kinda janky with the a hole just sitting on the playfield like that. Pretty bummed about it, but am trying to think of ways to remedy this. Any tips from fellow JP owners?
[quoted image]

Here is what my far left pop bumper looks like on my JP.

Gord

DSCN3378 (resized).JPG
DSCN3594 (resized).JPG

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