I just ran thru the JP switch diagnostics:

1. Powershed trips switch #60 in the subway << this is the one I think may be the issue
2. TRex gobble trips switch #59, also in the subway

From your description, seems like nothing else in switch matrix column 8 is out (flippers ok, VUK working, etc.) - which is a good thing (I recently knocked out a switch matrix column - everything in that column was non-functional - turned out to be a tiny transistor on the CPU board, easy fix).

I still lean toward the diode on Switch #60 as the probable source - just sounds so familiar to the issues I had on the Control Room diode, even if the switch is otherwise functional.

Do you have any spare Diodes? Might be worth cutting that diode out of the circuit, test, then replace. On a good diode, you should see ~500mv across the leads in diode mode on your DMM, black lead at banded end. If it's good, then you've wasted ~$0.05, if it was bad, then you have your solution.

Hope that helps

appreciate the help. I don't have any spare diods but maybe I can buy some. I just tried switch tests again and mine is showing that #60 is the switch that is used for the Dino chomp return (when the ball is eaten it goes down into the tunnel and trips #60 then hits the vuk. I believe it's #59 that the powershed will trip. Seems like you're seeing the opposite?

Also - how would i go about replacing just the diode on the switch? It sounds like you're saying the switch might be registering however if the diode went bad it still will prevent it from working?

My Diagnostics results match my schematics:

Switch #60 = Powershed (Right Scoop Trough)

Do your schematics match this for the switch matrix (pg 26)? Did you move any wires/connectors below the playfield or in the backbox?

We have certainly seen variations between machines over time; this may be one of them - makes me curious (?)

Maybe other JP owners can chime in...

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Weird - I see what you're saying and even reading the manual you would expect switch 60 to be the powershed one but it's not as the game recognizes it as 59 as I'm manually depressing it so it's def wired that way. I guess either way, if it's 59 or 60 it seems to be the switch diode? I rather no replace, solder the entire switch if it's truly not that and I don't have a diode right now to check. What do you suggest is the best plan of action as I already tried to bend/wiggle and no luck. Just a killer that the game actually recognizes the switch when pressed yet still doesn't work? I would just hate to replace and it still not be fixed. When does a switch work but yet doesn't have the function assign to it work properly? so weird.

EDIT - checked the wiring and it's def 59. The white orange wire is connected to the switch which on that chart says 59. Trex works perfectly fine - in fact everything works fine (control room included) - just this damn powershed which worked fine until today!

EDIT 2 - just tried dropping the ball in during diagnostics and seeing what would happen and the ball doesn't appear to be hitting the switch on it's way to the VUF.

EDIT 3 - in game, even if I trigger the switch myself (59) under the table while the powershed lit, it doesn't keep the control room lit. Damn....

Just for kicks, what if you trigger the OTHER switch, the one nearest the TREX, manually to see if it enables the Control Room? This might help confirm the wires are not swapped - though you have noted things worked properly until today.

Your edit #2 seems significant. The ball should trip the switch as it passes over it. Maybe the actuator arm has become deformed just enough to miss the ball but register when you manually depress with your finger.

Here is mine (#60). The tab at the end of the arm is actually nicely flush with the bottom surface of the subway, even though it kind of looks to be slightly off of that surface. You can tweak the position of that switch to improve the alignment of the arm.

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I think I figured it out. Really weird but I think it's the wires being switch. In chaos mode if I stick the ball into the trex mouth, as it swallows it, the S from the power shed goes out as if I was hitting the powershed shot. The game must be recognizing the powershed shot as the trex chomp but what's weird is if I get the trex shot it still shows a light on the left side to signify I hit trex.

I think the easiest way for me to fix this is to unscrew the switches from both of their areas and swap them right? Otherwise, I would need to detach the wires from both switches and solder back on which is much more of a POS.

thanks again for all your help.

EDIT - it def the prob. I can put the ball in the trex mouth and the powershed shot actually goes out and the control room is back online.

I suspect the problem lies with your TRex trough switch. Look closely at it.

FIXED! Simple as swapping the switches. Apparently 59 switch was in the 60 location and 60 was in 59 location which led me to find out that if i fed the TreX with the ball the powershed would register and control room would light. After the swap of putting 59 and 60 in the right location in the subway, it all works. Glad I didn't try to replace them! Thanks again for your help.

This is an issue with your t-rex saucer switch. If the arm is bent such that it's barely making contact when the ball is on it, the game can potentially register that the ball moved out before the t-rex bent down to eat it.

Basically, if the game isn't reading a ball in the saucer the entire time the t-rex is bending down, it won't bite.

FYI: there's not a chomp switch. The game doesn't actually know if the t-rex is biting the ball. It just assumes if the ball is in the saucer and the t-rex down switch is active, it's in the right spot for the jaw coil to be activated until the up switch is hit.

Thanks for info. I tried to bend the switch, and then activate the Rex. Now that I am looking closer at it, what I see is happening is that the head starts to move up then the jaw chomps. I clearly remember it used to chomp before moving back up. The jaw appears to also be open more than it used to be, and now rests on the lip of the wood outside the saucer, not in the saucer. However, I don't think it is stuck on the wood, as I can see in a video I took that the head actually moves up a bit before the jaw closes. Could this be a mechanical issue? What controls how far the jaw opens? Thanks again for your help - I would like to know what I am looking for before I start to take the head apart.

It will be a break in the wiring loom that goes to the solenoid from under the playfield, this happened to mine, when he bends over the fractured wire gets stretched and separates. Its a bit of a PITA to replace as you have to strip it down but not difficult.

I am not sure I understand what "wiring loom" means. Is there a specific replacement part to buy? Also, is there a guide for how to disassemble the Rex? Again, thanks for the help.

Its just the wiring assembly that goes to the Trex. From memory if you take the horseshoe plastic from around his neck you can drop the whole assembly through the bottom of the playfield after taking 3 or 4 screws out.

The loom that will have the break is what is left on the assembly when you remove it, you will have to unplug it so you can't get it wrong. Its probably only one wire that is at fault but it is worth replacing them all as they will all have suffered the same strain over the years.

You will have to make your own up as I don't think there is a direct replacement.

I wish I had taken pictures now so I could show you better!

Thanks for the help. I have been following the incredible t.rex mod from winteriscoming, and in looking back, I see he posted the installation video which serves as a very clear guide to disassembling it. I will use this to dig in and see what needs to be fixed. Thank you to matt_adams and winteriscoming! I will followup on what I find.

I'm not discounting a wiring issue. I've not had any experience with that.

Post some pics of the stripped down frame. Pay close attention to the jaw link assembly that connects the coil in the lower back of the t-rex to the jaw. There's a nub at the top that goes into a hole in the jaw for making it chomp that can end up falling off. If there's a lot of slop in that assembly or if the nub recently broke, I could see that causing the mouth to be opening wider than normal. There are replacement jaw links at Pinball Life and Marco Specialties.

I now realize the clue was in this comment from winteriscoming. When the down switch gets activated, that is when it chomps. The problem is that this switch was not being activated early enough. Likely due to losing sensitivity in the switch. I tried bending the arm up, but then it was closing too early (both the switch and the jaw). I tried putting a rubber on the metal piece that activates the switch to make it larger and activate the switch earlier, and now it works part of the time. No way around it, just have to replace the switch, which means several days wait. Hopefully this will clear up the problem.

Cool, I hope that fixes it, why is it never that simple for me!!!

Anyone know where I should start with a sound issue? I've checked the ribbon cables I'm about 90% sure it's not them. I do have new ones on the way though just in case.

The sound will cut out, and random sound effects will play and cut out. For every ball drain, the sound starts over and plays normal, but then cuts out soon after.

I'm almost certain that it's a short happening though. It did this shortly after I got the machine, but then didn't act up for a while, so I left it alone. But just recently I moved the machine to take the glass off, and the problem as returned. BUT, I may be closer to figuring it out. I lifted up the playfield to see if I could spot anything, which I didn't. But I noticed after that, the sound didn't cut out.

I haven't fully tested it, but I'm wondering if the harness moving with the playfield eliminated the short? Anyone have any suggestions on where to start? Would a short with a switch or light, or coil cause these sound issues?

I had this issue on another game, the solution was to reseat the 12v power connector on the sound board. The speakers were cutting out independently so I figured the amps were shutting down due to a poor 12v connection. That's just a temporary fix though, the connector and header pins would ultimately need to be replaced.

Hmm. Interesting. Could be the issue. I'm fuzzy on the details of when it happened, but was something that seemed to pop up towards the end of my restoration. Which would have been after I took the CPU board off to fix some TIPs. I'll check it out. Thanks.

BTW, Crash. Does MCO mean anything to you? Used to know a Crash from a 2003-ish message board.

Postal service jipped me on my new chips yesterday. Hopefully they show up today! I was all excited to try the new code out then......nothing.

Looks like Ill have my new software soon. USPS said out for delivery, then nothing for 3 days. Finally filed a report, and then it was magically in chicago for some reason. Now it is back at my local post office...hopefully making it to my house today or this week.

Cant wait to try the new code out!

Hello all JP fans,

Could please someone kind help me regarding JP dimensions? I did not find them in the manual and I don´t have him at home yet. I need to transport MS Frankenstein from Sega so I don´t know if my car can take it so I would like to compare them.

Thank you very much!

If you car fits the frank it will fit the JP.

I need a little help with my JP.

Since I've had it the C doesn't register when shooting for CHAOS. In switch test all of the Row 3 switches also trigger the corresponding Row 5 switch i.e. when Left slingshot is triggered it also triggers top turbo bumper, when spitter target #3 triggers it also triggers raptor pit, and so on. I tried replacing the switches in the left and center scoops. When the left scoop switch is held, the problem with the other switches goes away. if another row 3 switch is held (for example T Rex trough) the problem with the other row 3 switches persists. I noticed that my JP has the off switch diode for the scoop switches and it also had diodes across the switches (left scoop and center scoop). I cut the diodes off the switches and the problem persists. The center scoop now doesn't register.

Any ideas would be most appreciated.

Sounds like a short or bad diode I would start by looking at the switches that trigger wrong and look for shorts or a bad diode if you don't see anything then check all other switches and then after that find corresponding transistor for bad switches and test them

I know that my car fits JP and widebody W/B and I want to buy MSF

I believe the backbox is 29 inches wide. That was the only dimension I cared about, since my doorframe is 29.5 inches.

Any luck yet?

My wife says I got a "pinball package" yesterday. Im not sure how she knows that but I assume its the one. I'll be back in town tomorrow. Hope to have time to pop it in then. I played a bunch of original JP rules recently so I notice the changes more, lol.

Installed the 6.0 in my JP and the 4.0 into my TFTC ... Like having 2 new games in the house.
Nice work ... Respect !

Flew in this morn, saw the ROMS were on the counter. Got excited and had an hour before I had to go into the office. Pulled the old ROMS, put the new in...fire her up....no display, and Trex tries to go past his left position into the plastic. PANIC! Shut off....

Look up pics of JP boards.....I had put the CPU ROM in the socket above where it goes.

I know, I know, shouldnt be in a hurry EVER when working on pins.

Got the ROM in the right slot, she fired up, Trex fixed himself, and I played a game. Didnt have much time, just wanted to make sure everything was OK.

Really noticing that the ball save actually uses the shoot again insert now. I dont think my 5.01 ROMS did that at all.

Only problem I think I caused by being an idiot is that the raptor pit coil isnt firing. I think maybe the rex turned too far and maybe knocked a wire loose off the coil. Ill check her out tonight.

Beers and JP tonight! Cant wait to get off!

I almost did that I mine. I forgot to take a photo of the sockets before pulling the old one out. I grabbed the new one and went to put it in, and froze. "Shit, which one did I just pull the old one out of?" I tried to replay my actions in my head, but my DVR didn't record it. So I dug through all my photos I had taken up to that point, and found a full cabinet shot, where I had left the back box door open. Phew!

I take photos usually too....like I said, working on a pin in a rush is never a good idea.

Home trying to figure out this raptor pit coil issue. I dont know what in the hell i did. Wires all look good, switch works, just no coil. Is there a fuse dedicated for this coil by aby chance? I looked at all the ones i could find and they all checked out. I just wnna play!

Also, i thought the mode was supposed to change with the pops or the sling hits, mine does neither. It does randomize though from the start.

Any help on either?

At the beginning of the game, the first mode is locked in. That wasn't changed from the previous version, AFAIK. The difference is that the starting mode is now random, where it was always Stampede before. Once the mode is initiated, I believe they change with sling or pop hits until locked in with the power shed. I think it worked that way in the previous version didn't it? I've been on the new roms too long to remember exactly.

Does your raptor coil not fire in diagnostics either? Is the coil possibly burned out?

The above is correct. When the A hole is lit for mode start, the pops don't change the mode.

Gotcha! Makes sense.

No it does not fire in test mode.

Crickets....

Im working like mad for the next few weeks, I may have a moment to mess with machines in the future, but nothing planned.

Any one want to throw around the idea that i blew something when i put the cpu rom in the wrong spot? I cant think of any other reason why it would just stop working at that moment.

Looks like you should now check your TIP122's as a starting point. I fried my VUK by putting a diode on the coil backwards. It ended up being a pain in the ass to track down, but now know MUCH more about how to read schematics than I ever would have before. And for it, I'm a better pinball owner.

So it's time to pull out the multimeter and learn where stuff goes on the CPU board and maybe the PPB Board like it was in my case.

Any one have a PDF manual they can share?

Well hell, thanks. I wasnt used to manuals being readily available online since all the gottlieb manuals are on lock down. Thanks!

hey guys - just today, my machine when started on a cold boot will say 1 ball missing. It will then shoot a ball out. I then press start and it does the same thing (shoots ball out) and does this two more times until it finally allows me to start. When the game starts, it's perfect. All balls are in their holding area so not sure why it does this on a cold boot. It does not do this after completing one game and leaving it on. Any thoughts?

Hello everyone,
looking to become a club member in good standing. I picked up a low mileage early production JP yesterday and have been scouring this topic ever since. I love all the mods and passion for the game. It is my fourth machine so I'm no newbie but am new to Jurassic Park and Data East. I love all the Mods that people are doing and look to add a gate mod and can't wait for the scoop hole mod (once blue is back in stock)! I printed the replacement cards but unfortunately in my mad dash to read and download anything JP related i cannot remember who to thank for those, but thank you! My printer is currently feverishly printing a gate I found, but it may not be sized right so it may need a redo. thanks in advance for all the great info on the outstanding game!
-Jim

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Those look like Aurich's great cards. Congrats on your game, looks nice. Gate is looking good too!

Congrats. Welcome! Is that the one that's been up on ebay for a while? I see it's got the clear pop bumpers, says smart bomb, and has a spot to put a rubber bumper on the wireform (something I wish mine had). Can't be too many of those lower productions around.

The best thing I did to my JP was to replace all the insert lamps with Comet warm white non-ghosting LEDs. Really freshened the look of the machine. I also added a superbright RED under the TRex saucer tied into the nearby TRex lamp - looks awesome! I left the GI as incandescent as the warm glow is my preference.

Good luck!

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