Not sure how I missed it but when I got my JP home last month I only noticed then that the amber was cracked horizontally in the middle. Would be cool if those get remade but I doubt it and finding one would be just as difficult.
Quoted from daley:So how many people have installed the Version 6 roms? What are your thoughts?
Read all the details here:
http://www.pinballcode.com/
Quoted from daley:So how many people have installed the Version 6 roms? What are your thoughts?
It's awesome.
Quoted from daley:So how many people have installed the Version 6 roms? What are your thoughts?
I would hope that I like them.
Quoted from Gondar:Does anyone have/know where I can buy the sticker that sticks to the playfield under the T-Rex (the green one with leafs)? Or a good scan/photo so I can make my own? It seems to be missing on a lot of machines, including mine.
Let me check. I had one made for the vert. edge. I will check to see if my art guy would give up file. Don't know. He is covered up. I have yet to get InfiniteLives blades done.
I have the 6.00 and love it. Lot's of shorter games now and I actually started shooting the targets.
Also love the ballsaver light, added samples, balanced modes, ..
with the 6.00 code, I've found that I'm spending more time trying to hit the targets to light tri-ball, instead of shooting the scoop to start the modes. Because before, I always knew I'd have a shot to get tri-ball on the third ball before. Now you've gotta work for it. My games on average seem to be around 50million. Good games around 100m. Supposed I need to switch it up, and shoot for the modes.
I never played what was before 6.00 but just by reading the patch notes and playing a few dozen games I can tell it's much improved from the stock roms. I was curious though should the ball save light come on when hitting the raptor pen the same way it does at the beginning of the game? Hard to tell exactly when the saver stops during play though I know it's now five seconds.
As a side note I just finished shopping out the playfield. Took just about everything off and cleaned, polished and waxed and added new rubbers and LEDs. I have to say the game is almost completely different now as the ball is just about silent and is flying everywhere. Most of the time at the plunge the ball flys out of the pops without hitting any and tries to head STDM at just under the speed of light. Quite intense and will take some getting used to.
Does the Jackpot light in the Raptor Pit signify the ball drain time when you hit the raptor pit? Seems like it's on when you hit that shot, but have never taken the time to confirm.
I more for the 6.0 code. I love it. so many improvements! Its worth it just to not have to hear "STAMPEDE" at the beginning of every game.
-Jim
Quoted from jim5six:I believe its the "Danger" light that flashes during ball save time.
I think you are correct. The Danger light right under the Raptor Pit.
Quoted from jim5six:I believe its the "Danger" light that flashes during ball save time.
Knew it was one, couldn't think of anything other than Jackpot.
Oh Yes! I would love that. was there enough open space to mount or did you have to relocate a bunch of wiring?
-Jim
Quoted from jim5six:Oh Yes! I would love that. was there enough open space
Plenty of room ... Much easier to get under the playfield... No moving of any wiring... No resting any sensitive items on the ledge, also installed on my Tales from the Crypt!
Quoted from transprtr4u:Love the upgraded Roms
Just to go back a little on the unofficial 6.0 Roms
Thank you so much Chad without you this would not have been possible! I guess all the others enjoying your work is great, but it wasn't mentioned so thank you for your effort!
Job more than well done!
Here's an odd one for me, and can't figure out why it would be doing this.
Every once in awhile just the left flipper will act like a connection isn't being made, and will sometimes activate a few quick times then die. Or will flip a split second and die.
After I rebuilt the machine, it did this. Found out that if I cleaned the contacts on the left flipper button switch, it was fixed. BUT...the problem seems to be coming back every few months or so. It just started happening again last night after not doing it for quite a while.
While cleaning between the contacts does help it, why is it just the left flipper switch that keeps loosing contact? I've had no problems with the right one. And all switches are brand new. Even the EOS switches on the flippers.
But signs point that it's the actual left button switch. Just don't understand why I always need to clean that one. Is it improperly finished and getting more oxidation than all the other switches?
Quoted from woody24:Here's an odd one for me, and can't figure out why it would be doing this.
Every once in awhile just the left flipper will act like a connection isn't being made, and will sometimes activate a few quick times then die. Or will flip a split second and die.
After I rebuilt the machine, it did this. Found out that if I cleaned the contacts on the left flipper button switch, it was fixed. BUT...the problem seems to be coming back every few months or so. It just started happening again last night after not doing it for quite a while.
While cleaning between the contacts does help it, why is it just the left flipper switch that keeps loosing contact? I've had no problems with the right one. And all switches are brand new. Even the EOS switches on the flippers.
But signs point that it's the actual left button switch. Just don't understand why I always need to clean that one. Is it improperly finished and getting more oxidation than all the other switches?
Check the fuse clips for the flippers...located in cab on left side wall I believe. They're know to deteriorate and not make good contact.
Quoted from Pimp77:Check the fuse clips for the flippers...located in cab on left side wall I believe. They're know to deteriorate and not make good contact.
I forget about those down there. I know I've never replaced or even checked those at all. Will take a look. But just seems odd. Maybe its a placebo effect where it just so happens that when I clean the contact, those fuses work for a while.
In a way, I hope it is them. At least then would I know that a hard fix fixed the issue, as opposed to cleaning a contact and then waiting to see if it acts up again.
Quoted from transprtr4u:Just to go back a little on the unofficial 6.0 Roms
Thank you so much Chad without you this would not have been possible! I guess all the others enjoying your work is great, but it wasn't mentioned so thank you for your effort!
Job more than well done!
My pleasure.
Quoted from rubberducks:@Endprodukt (guy doing Pinsound mix for JP) said he had some good news re: plastics, which he'd share soon ... hope that means one of the German repro makers is going to do a run.
Yes. Never said it's going to be a set or anything, though. I'd be surprised if they wouldn't do most of the plastics but we'll see that.
Vote here if you'd like to see a Jurassic Park repro playfield produced by CPR in future:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-repro-pf-interested-list
Also post ideally.
Just ordered My Pinsound board ...cant wait to hear endprodukts work when he is done ...but for now will be the standard roms which will be a huge difference as well. Just installed one in my LAH and omg ...should of bought a board long time ago. Next pinsound purchase will be for rollergames.
Anyone have any idea why the solenoids for the VUK and ball launch would stop firing ? I have checked the fuses.
Quoted from Cobra:Anyone have any idea why the solenoids for the VUK and ball launch would stop firing ? I have checked the fuses.
Are your other 50v coils still firing?
Do any work recently on the machine? I screwed up my VUK by flipping a diode backwards. But VUK and ball launch are connected.
Check the Fuse clips & Header pins on your PPB for that connection. Burnt Molex connector at same location?
I just picked up the pin. It was working before I picked it up. Doesn't appear to be any burnt connectors. I have a tech coming Friday to fix it. Seller said he would cover the charge. Awesome guy.
Hello everyone as I have just joined your beautiful club:
20160501_162546_(resized).jpg
I found a really clean and original machine that a family bought and put in the basement for their kids.
I did however see one problem right at the start (haha):
20160501_205106_(resized).jpg
Question, where can I find these lovely Chad 6.0 ROMs? I don't have a EPROM burner but I am hoping that a small PayPal donation can fix that lack of ROMs.
And don't worry! Those batteries are coming off as soon as I get my nvRAM in!
Hey comment23,
Fun game, improved with Chad's ROM.
I ordered mine from John Wart. An easy 5 minute job to replace the ROM chips.
https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/johnwartjr
NVRAM, just as easy to install. Get those batteries out asap.
I also replaced a couple burned connectors, and removed the oxidation from the offending pins on the power supply board. No signs of new overheating, though the machine is only turned on during gameplay.
Enjoy!
Quoted from TimeWarp1:Does anybody's Trex go down for a second bite after just swallowing a ball? Thanks!
Nope, sounds like a flaky switch.
Quoted from Pimp77:Nope, sounds like a flaky switch.
Time for some investigative work it seems. This morning I tested around with it and have gathered a couple clues.
When the ball goes into the saucer the trex comes down and swallows it as normal. It then comes back down and up again but doesn't close its jaw. This is exactly what occurs when the trex is supposed to eat the ball from the saucer but the ball is removed before it can be swallowed.
Next I took a flathead and manually pressed and held down the saucer switch. The trex did its proper routine but this time it did not come down for a second bite. This makes me think something down the line after swallowing the ball is causing this issue. The only things after that are the trex subway switch and VUK. I tested the switches on both in the switch test and both appear to be properly operating.
I would guess the saucer switch may be faulty but I have doubts as after the first swallow the saucer switch uses the kicker to kick the ball out of the saucer. If there was a second false switch activation I would imagine the saucer would kick as opposed to send the trex down.
My next test though a PITA to setup properly due to all the balls is to lift the playfield and have the trex swallow the ball but stop the ball before it hits the subway switch and see how it reacts. Repeat but have the ball hit the subway switch but not the VUK and again observe the reaction.
My guess is that the VUK is rattling something causing the trex to go down but as of right now that's just a total guess.
Quoted from TimeWarp1:Time for some investigative work it seems. This morning I tested around with it and have gathered a couple clues.
When the ball goes into the saucer the trex comes down and swallows it as normal. It then comes back down and up again but doesn't close its jaw. This is exactly what occurs when the trex is supposed to eat the ball from the saucer but the ball is removed before it can be swallowed.
Next I took a flathead and manually pressed and held down the saucer switch. The trex did its proper routine but this time it did not come down for a second bite. This makes me think something down the line after swallowing the ball is causing this issue. The only things after that are the trex subway switch and VUK. I tested the switches on both in the switch test and both appear to be properly operating.
I would guess the saucer switch may be faulty but I have doubts as after the first swallow the saucer switch uses the kicker to kick the ball out of the saucer. If there was a second false switch activation I would imagine the saucer would kick as opposed to send the trex down.
My next test though a PITA to setup properly due to all the balls is to lift the playfield and have the trex swallow the ball but stop the ball before it hits the subway switch and see how it reacts. Repeat but have the ball hit the subway switch but not the VUK and again observe the reaction.
My guess is that the VUK is rattling something causing the trex to go down but as of right now that's just a total guess.
I'd guess trex up or down switch needs adjustment or replacement.
Quoted from TimeWarp1:Time for some investigative work it seems. This morning I tested around with it and have gathered a couple clues.
When the ball goes into the saucer the trex comes down and swallows it as normal. It then comes back down and up again but doesn't close its jaw. This is exactly what occurs when the trex is supposed to eat the ball from the saucer but the ball is removed before it can be swallowed.
Next I took a flathead and manually pressed and held down the saucer switch. The trex did its proper routine but this time it did not come down for a second bite. This makes me think something down the line after swallowing the ball is causing this issue. The only things after that are the trex subway switch and VUK. I tested the switches on both in the switch test and both appear to be properly operating.
I would guess the saucer switch may be faulty but I have doubts as after the first swallow the saucer switch uses the kicker to kick the ball out of the saucer. If there was a second false switch activation I would imagine the saucer would kick as opposed to send the trex down.
My next test though a PITA to setup properly due to all the balls is to lift the playfield and have the trex swallow the ball but stop the ball before it hits the subway switch and see how it reacts. Repeat but have the ball hit the subway switch but not the VUK and again observe the reaction.
My guess is that the VUK is rattling something causing the trex to go down but as of right now that's just a total guess.
As far as I know, the T-rex doesn't care what happens after the ball is swallowed. That subway switch could be completely removed and the t-rex would operate normally. The only thing that makes the t-rex bend down is if the saucer switch is activated. The only thing that makes the t-rex bite is if the saucer switch is activated, the center switch is activated and the down switch is activated.
The t-rex just assumes once it goes up that the ball is swallowed, but there's nothing that checks for this immediately after it stands up. The only logic driving anything else to do with the t-rex up/down/chomp is a ball search. For example, the t-rex could grab the ball, stand up and have the ball stuck in its mouth. The game will continue as normal, waiting for however long with no switch hits to start ball search.
Edit: I agree that it could be a faulty up switch. If the up switch is flaky, it could miss it on the first go and has to cycle through another rotation before it registers again. The arm might just need to be bent to make better contact in the up position. It could also possibly be a flaky saucer switch. Make sure the saucer switch is gapped enough so that it's not making contact with vibrations, but is close enough to make good contact when a ball is in it.
Quoted from winteriscoming:It could also possibly be a flaky saucer switch. Make sure the saucer switch is gapped enough so that it's not making contact with vibrations, but is close enough to make good contact when a ball is in it.
The saucer switch would have been my first guess since it may think the ball is still there. Maybe. Crud may have built up in the switch, and while the switch works, maybe it's gummed up enough that when it's released, it releases slowly? Just a thought.
Quoted from dannunz:When is black alley doing more of the T. rex mod?
They never did make it this unit , winterscoming on Pinside is responsible for that great mod!
I like you would love to have one as well but there is no date as to when he will make more!
Fingers crossed that it will be available sometime soon!
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