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(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8,328 posts
  • 470 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 minutes ago by goodypin18
  • Topic is favorited by 197 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 8328 posts in this topic. You are on page 82 of 167.
#4051 2 years ago
Quoted from matt_adams:

Thank you have you ever tried it with coloured ramps like G&R etc?

I have not. However, I feel that as long as the plastic is thick, I don't see an issue. Just take your time, and only apply a light heat. All you are trying to do is soften the top 1mm of the ramp, not get the whole thing piping hot.

#4052 2 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

Here's my video on flame polishing (using the Jurassic Park ramp):
» YouTube video

Nice job.

#4053 2 years ago

Gents,

I have a NOS Ramp still wrapped in cling, and I was considering using it to create a vacuform mold, and having them made to resell. The issue I see, is even with my contacts in china being able to find a factory to reproduce it, the minimim order quantity to get great pricing will be very high. Thats not even mentioning the tooling.

That likely means having them made in small batches, which likely means a very high price point.

How much would you be willing to pay for a new ramp? What if it didn't have the flap attached?

its likely to land between $300 and $600....depending on MOQ and material choice, and flap/noflap. I think this is the reason starship fantasy hasn't had one made.

#4054 2 years ago

I'm ok with the price point. I need one. Thanks

#4055 2 years ago

Color dmd is so sick. A must have.

IMG_6586 (resized).JPG

#4056 2 years ago
Quoted from newmanoconnor:

Gents,
I have a NOS Ramp still wrapped in cling, and I was considering using it to create a vacuform mold, and having them made to resell. The issue I see, is even with my contacts in china being able to find a factory to reproduce it, the minimim order quantity to get great pricing will be very high. Thats not even mentioning the tooling.
That likely means having them made in small batches, which likely means a very high price point.
How much would you be willing to pay for a new ramp? What if it didn't have the flap attached?
its likely to land between $300 and $600....depending on MOQ and material choice, and flap/noflap. I think this is the reason starship fantasy hasn't had one made.

Freeplay40 can do it much cheaper once he finishes his bigger machine.

#4057 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Color dmd is so sick. A must have.

This is a MOD I would love but its hard to swallow the 400 price tag when my original one works still, maybe I can pick one of these up at the next TPF a little cheaper.

#4058 2 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

This is a MOD I would love but its hard to swallow the 400 price tag when my original one works still, maybe I can pick one of these up at the next TPF a little cheaper.

I asked Santa for one this year. He decided to give me socks and underwear instead.

#4059 2 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I asked Santa for one this year. He decided to give me socks and underwear instead.

I did the old "so how much do you wanna spend on each other this year?" with the wife. Good thing shes a JP fan.

#4060 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Color dmd is so sick. A must have.

Looks sick. That's LED? LCD doesn't seem to be avail for DE games...

#4061 2 years ago
Quoted from newmanoconnor:

its likely to land between $300 and $600

That is a hard sell considering ramps usually go for around $100 to $200. And most ramps at that price have decals and sometimes wiring pre-installed. So my advice would be not to do it as I don't see many people buying in at that price.

#4062 2 years ago

Looking for a ramp if anyone has one to sell! $300-600 prices me out.

#4063 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Looks sick. That's LED? LCD doesn't seem to be avail for DE games...

Yes, LED. I didnt want to have to mod the machine just to replace the DMD (with an LCD), you now? Seems silly to me to have a big LCD display in there and only use 1/2 of it. Its super bright and crisp.

Also, I work in the audio visual industry and have dealt with ghosting issues in video signal for a long time. I do NOT notice any ghosting that should cause any alarm.

#4064 2 years ago

Couple more screen shots from the video I made.

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#4065 2 years ago

I think I'd make one out of popsicle sticks and tinfoil before I dropped 300 on one.

#4066 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Looks sick. That's LED? LCD doesn't seem to be avail for DE games...

LED and LCD is available for all games. ColorDMD just doesn't provide installation instructions for games that you would have to mod too install. If you can get the LCD in the pin the ROM is available.

#4067 2 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Freeplay40 can do it much cheaper once he finishes his bigger machine.

I asked free play if he could make a new ramp. He told me last month he could not.

#4068 2 years ago

What is the ramp made from? Polycarbonate? I have a small crack in mine, next to raptor pit. Is a solvent that "welds" acrylic the best way to go? It has a failed araldite repair, but I think I can chip that off
Thanks Justin

#4069 2 years ago
Quoted from FuryosJustin:

What is the ramp made from? Polycarbonate? I have a small crack in mine, next to raptor pit. Is a solvent that "welds" acrylic the best way to go? It has a failed araldite repair, but I think I can chip that off
Thanks Justin

I used plastic surgery after reading what others recommended. It was easy to use and I saw it flowing in to the crack. Got it locally at ace hardware. So far so good

#4070 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

I used plastic surgery after reading what others recommended. It was easy to use and I saw it flowing in to the crack. Got it locally at ace hardware. So far so good

Great, thanks for the advice, I've found a reseller here that sells the plastic surgery, so I'll grab a small tube

#4071 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

Hey guys. First post for me in this club about my new JP. I've got several issues to work through in this game still, but the first one I tried to work through last night was getting pinsound up and running. My question is this- does anyone have pinsound AND a rottendog mpu in their game? I'm having an issue with no sound through the pinsound board and I know there was an issue with the interaction of these two boards that I'm not sure if they've fixed. So I'm asking here if anyone has that combo up and running on really any data east pin. Thanks!

For future reference if anyone encounters this issue, I was sent a config file from pinsound guys and it fixed it.

#4072 2 years ago

Anyone have the metal bracket that mounts in front of the topper that can send me pictures.and measurements?

Thanks

#4073 2 years ago

Can someone check what this connector runs to? Should be in the backbox and my best guess is power supply. I'm piecing back together a hacked up JP and am not sure about this one. Thanks

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#4074 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

Can someone check what this connector runs to? Should be in the backbox and my best guess is power supply.

White-red 25v AC from backbox bridge feeds 25v AC for T-rex up/down motor.
pg. 47 pg.48 manual. BR2.

#4075 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

Can someone check what this connector runs to?

Yup, I was just writing that it comes from a bridge rectifier mounted on the left.

example pic
http://www.aaarpinball.com/Simpsons/DSC_6144.jpg

#4076 2 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Freeplay40 can do it much cheaper once he finishes his bigger machine.

I wonder if he needs one to make a mold from...he does vacuforming right?

Considering the size, I really don’t think $250-300 is that expensive compared to other ramps and ramp sets.

I’m just not sure I can get it there.

The tooling cost is what is so $$$

I paid $350 for my nos, be cause it’s so rare and seems like nobody is going to make them... I just hate to install it, when it could be used to possibly make them cheaper and more available...

#4077 2 years ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

Anyone have the metal bracket that mounts in front of the topper that can send me pictures.and measurements?
Thanks

The bracket is 16" long. Lower tab is 5/8". Upper tab is 1 5/8". The bend is 120 degrees. I remade it out of polished stainless steel.

Remade on top and original on bottom.
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Hope this helps.

#4078 2 years ago
Quoted from Soapman:

The bracket is 16" long. Lower tab is 5/8". Upper tab is 1 5/8". The bend is 120 degrees. I remade it out of polished stainless steel.
Remade on top and original on bottom.

Hope this helps.

Really nice work Bill. Your reproduction looks nicer than the original.

Gord

#4079 2 years ago
Quoted from Soapman:

The bracket is 16" long. Lower tab is 5/8". Upper tab is 1 5/8". The bend is 120 degrees. I remade it out of polished stainless steel.
Remade on top and original on bottom.

Hope this helps.

Perfect just what I need.

#4080 2 years ago

Ill Pay $250 for a RAMP, Paypal ready!!

#4081 2 years ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Really nice work Bill. Your reproduction looks nicer than the original.
Gord

Thanks, Gord.

Quoted from jjoravec:

Perfect just what I need.

Great!

#4082 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

White-red 25v AC from backbox bridge feeds 25v AC for T-rex up/down motor.
pg. 47 pg.48 manual. BR2.

Thanks guys. Could be why trex doesn't work. Thanks

#4083 2 years ago

Just picked up a JP and pop bumpers are weak as hell. Would love them to be punchier, any suggestions on where to go for replacements?

Thanks in advance.

#4084 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Just picked up a JP and pop bumpers are weak as hell. Would love them to be punchier, any suggestions on where to go for replacements?
Thanks in advance.

I would take them apart and clean them and replace the coils sleeves. Then adjust the switches and see how they work.

#4085 2 years ago

Question for you guys and gals. I have never seen any wear on the front of the C, A and S scoops yet they all have mylar in front of them. I can see the C scoop because it is an eject scoop but the others just drop the ball on the subway ramp. I didn't even show any wear between the edge of the mylar and the front of the scoop yet the sides were completely blown out. Just wondering if they though it was going to wear but in reality it wasn't needed. I'm thinking about not putting the mylar in front of the C scoop but not the A and S scoops. This was a full restoration with auto clear. What are your opinions?

#4086 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Just picked up a JP and pop bumpers are weak as hell. Would love them to be punchier, any suggestions on where to go for replacements?
Thanks in advance.

I replaced my coil sleeves fiber washer spring and spoons. I cleaned everything. Mine are in good working order. I wished they made a Data East rebuild kit but never found one.

#4087 2 years ago

Shout out to outcida, sign is awesome.

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#4088 2 years ago

So I actually found a machine I can buy here in the US for 2048.00. It’s just big enough I think.

Should be able to get the ramp to $200-250.... just gotta learn how to make a soft mold/tool, and see if I can get a demo unit before I actually buy...

#4089 2 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I'm thinking about not putting the mylar in front of the C scoop but not the A and S scoops. This was a full restoration with auto clear. What are your opinions?

I removed the mylar from the inserts over 2 years ago. Hundreds of play and no signs of wear. The mylar was so dirty and someone used something abrasive, thinking magic eraser. Also I removed it in front of the sling shots and no damage. I left it around the pop bumpers and it looks like crap.

#4090 2 years ago
Quoted from Jenniebear:

I removed the mylar from the inserts over 2 years ago. Hundreds of play and no signs of wear. The mylar was so dirty and someone used something abrasive, thinking magic eraser. Also I removed it in front of the sling shots and no damage. I left it around the pop bumpers and it looks like crap.

So no wear in front of the kickout scoop either? Im not putting Mylar in front of the slings or pops either. I will put the squares under the ramp drops though.

#4091 2 years ago

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#4092 2 years ago

Does anyone have pictures of the Mantis hole protectors installed? There are no instructions and I cant find any pictures. I think I know how they fit but it laves a screw that gets in the way of the scoop mechanism.

Thanks

#4093 2 years ago

Hey Lonzo, I have been following your restoration a bit, nice work. I hope I get to see it at TPF. I would not dare bring my JP for fear that it would be sitting next to yours and make me hate mine.

I would like to know how the Mantis protectors work out for you.. trying to decide between these and the Cliffys. Can anyone comment on the effect Cliffys have on playing? I have seen some people say that it can negatively influence the ball travel. I would get the mantis but I already have ball wear around the lip that I wouldn't mind coverin up with a cliffy.

#4094 2 years ago

My Cliffy's were installed by the p.o. without the damage being repaired. As a result the protector dipped down into the damage part and the edge is slightly lifted. As a result a slow travelling ball will deflect if it is coming in at a shallow angle. I'll get around to fixing it after I try my first scoop repair on my hook. Even with the raised sides the effect is pretty minimal.

So basically make sure you put some wood filler in before installing.

#4095 2 years ago

Guys wondered if anyone can help me out, I have always had a very faint hum in attract mode but once you play it was gone. After installing my color DMD I have a noticeable hum on the Right Speaker and the left speaker has none. Any thoughts? I'm thinking about just buying a Pinsound, New Speakers and the new wire harness kit but would be mad if it still was doing it lol.

#4096 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Guys wondered if anyone can help me out, I have always had a very faint hum in attract mode but once you play it was gone. After installing my color DMD I have a noticeable hum on the Right Speaker and the left speaker has none. Any thoughts? I'm thinking about just buying a Pinsound, New Speakers and the new wire harness kit but would be mad if it still was doing it lol.

Start with a few of these cheaper ideas. Please report back on your findings! I have the same issue just haven’t jumped into tackling it yet. Mine tracks with the PF lighting.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-speaker-noise-ideas-for-a-cure

#4097 2 years ago

Mine is a Constant hum on the right, it was very low with the PF lighting before but I wonder if its a ground issue? But in theory I think the pinsound would eliminate it since the old board would be gone. Ill check grounds and go with Nylon washers as a start.

#4098 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Guys wondered if anyone can help me out, I have always had a very faint hum in attract mode but once you play it was gone. After installing my color DMD I have a noticeable hum on the Right Speaker and the left speaker has none. Any thoughts? I'm thinking about just buying a Pinsound, New Speakers and the new wire harness kit but would be mad if it still was doing it lol.

My machine with pinsound still does it. Mine changes volume with the lights, so I wonder if some wires are run to close together or I'm missing a ground. Basically my recommendation is solve the issue before buying pinsound.

#4099 2 years ago

Thank you!! I still want the pinsound but won't purchase until I make some headway.

#4100 2 years ago

I have been trying to restore my JP. Looks like the manual has a lot of incorrect rubber size callouts or my post configuration is off. Im not confident that the types and location of posts was correct to start with. Could someone check my post type/placement? Seems like some should be star posts in-lieu of the steel posts. I think there were a few plastic/silver smooth posts as well but not sure where they may go.

Also the new silicone rubber touches the small rail guide by the sling shots. Looks odd but I can't think of anything that could be wrong.

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