(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club


By louknees

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,150 posts
  • 416 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by jamex
  • Topic is favorited by 183 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,653 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_3100 (resized).JPG
IMG_3099 (resized).JPG
IMG_3096 (resized).JPG
IMG_3097 (resized).JPG
IMG_3095 (resized).JPG
IMG_3094 (resized).JPG
IMG_3093 (resized).JPG
IMG_3092 (resized).JPG
IMG_3470 (resized).jpeg
20191113_193626 (resized).jpg
jp-rubbers (resized).PNG
15731544016047818554563461197544 (resized).jpg
15731543029144165323966519385247 (resized).jpg
E309E618-4A50-4AA8-A796-FD7D507193B2 (resized).jpeg
3930A69B-6CA8-4AC1-AA6F-EE7EB5D3E906 (resized).jpeg
CC1D61D4-533D-4962-BD7B-0E172596ED56 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 7150 posts in this topic. You are on page 50 of 143.
#2451 3 years ago

My T.I.L.T. Mods board also allows you to hook up your scoop lighting so you can make the scoop you are supposed to be shooting for flash. Check it out in this video. I could put together a kit for this if I have enough interested parties.

#2452 3 years ago

Yes, just like that! How did you illuminate your scoops? Drilling?

#2453 3 years ago

No drilling or permanent modifications involved. I used LED strips.

#2454 3 years ago

I love that cheeky "Bone Busting" mode at the very end of the video, demonstrating the working gate mod.

Nice work, those lit scoops look really awesome.

#2455 3 years ago

Seeing Tim's machine reminded me that I also did the illuminated background artwork. Super simple--seriously it took less then 2 minutes.

Jurassic_Park_LED_(resized).jpg

PS: Sorry for the crappy pictures.

#2456 3 years ago
Quoted from outcida:

No drilling or permanent modifications involved. I used LED strips.

Hmm, tried small red Comet strips (2-3 led segments) affixed to the top/inside of the mechanism between the scoops. Interfered with the ball. Maybe I'll need to revisit.

#2457 3 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

I was a bit nervous, but I figured there really wasn't too much that could have gone wrong. Even with some holes in the side they would still be 100% functional and it's in a spot that you'd never see. It might be possible to do two colors, but I'm probably not going to try to squeeze in another hole. To me the "C", "A", and "S" shots are pretty easy to understand since they are also illuminated by playfield inserts. I'd rather just highlight the System Startup, Computer Screen, Park Revenue, and Mr. DNA.
Can someone do me a favor? In this process I think I switched some wires on the subway switches. Whenever I hit either scoop it acts like I'm hitting the right scoop. Could you please take a picture or describe the wiring of these switches. The ball still ejects fine so I'm not quite sure how they function.

You're problem is the switch between the two scoops in the subway. That tells the game the right scoop was hit. It's a VERY common issue as that switch takes a beating. Verify that it registers in test mode and then make sure a ball triggers it when rolling through the subway. Adjust/fix as necessary. Check the diode too.

#2458 3 years ago

While working under their I did try to adjust that switch. I also re-soldered, but didn't do a whole lot of testing. The common wires were quick connected and I didn't take a good look at them before they fell off. I'll go though more testing tonight, but I was just wondering why the switch above the kicker seemed to be starting the computer modes. Maybe I just have the other switch too sensitive and it's triggering when the ball falls into either scoop.

EDIT: Re-soldered it again and it works now.

#2459 3 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Seeing Tim's machine reminded me that I also did the illuminated background artwork. Super simple--seriously it took less then 2 minutes.

PS: Sorry for the crappy pictures.

How did you illuminate the back banner. I can do a 2 minute job!

#2460 3 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

How did you illuminate the back banner. I can do a 2 minute job!

For me, took more like 10-15 minutes

1. I used a Comet Matrix 18" LED strip (frosted warm white)
2. I added the dimmer option, inserted in-line
3. Attached wires to backbox GI, w/alligator clips for time being
4. I attached the LED strip to a wooden dowel for rigidity with Zip ties every few inches
5. I attached the dowel behind the the banner, to the top of the cabinet with Velcro patches (might improve this later)
6. Ran the wires from the backbox to the LED strip with enough slack to permit the head to be folder down, with no obstruction (I might add some sleeving to the LED strip wires - they are pretty flimsy)
7. I dimmed the LED strip just a bit to be less obnoxious - warm white fits the incandescent color temp pretty well

I think it came out great!

6GZEapp_(resized).png

#2461 3 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

For me, took more like 10-15 minutes
1. I used a Comet Matrix 18" LED strip (frosted warm white)
2. I added the dimmer option, inserted in-line
3. Attached wires to backbox GI, w/alligator clips for time being
4. I attached the LED strip to a wooden dowel for rigidity with Zip ties every few inches
5. I attached the dowel behind the the banner, to the top of the cabinet with Velcro patches (might improve this later)
6. Ran the wires from the backbox to the LED strip with enough slack to permit the head to be folder down, with no obstruction (I might add some sleeving to the LED strip wires - they are pretty flimsy)
7. I dimmed the LED strip just a bit to be less obnoxious - warm white fits the incandescent color temp pretty well
I think it came out great!

This, minus steps #2, #4, #5, and #7. I used a 20" natural white strip from Comet. I mounted mine to the cabinet itself, so there is no worry of raising or lowering the playfield. I didn't have a stopwatch, but it was really easy.

#2462 3 years ago

Can you please take a pic of where you connected the alligator clips in the backbox?

#2463 3 years ago

Rondogg,

Very simple. Clipped very near the hinge & zip-tied to the existing harness. Minimal strain and impingement when the backbox door is opened/closed, and then when the head is folded down.

I may solder the attachment someday, but not motivated to do so just now - it's all working just fine.

7-22-2016_5-53-52_PM_(resized).png

#2464 3 years ago

I used 2 7" white led strips from comet, spaced evenly and attached with the velcro.

Then made and soldered in an extension harness with a disconnect to the playfield GI. That way the pf can nearly be pulled all the way out without stretching, or removed with a quick disconnect.

#2465 3 years ago

Thank you!

#2466 3 years ago

can anyone tell me what the specifications are of the two bridge rectifiers mounted on the backbox
under the power supply board
and where can i buy them?

see pic

P_20160612_205328_(resized).jpg

P_20160709_150830_(resized).jpg

left bottom the black ones

#2467 3 years ago

IMG_20160726_071937_(resized).JPG

#2468 3 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

The last two times I have heard the CHAOS mode callout, I have used the smart missile. After all of the balls drain, I see the dinosaur walking across the DMD that you shoot...then it says something about a victory mode and shooting the ramp. That mode has a countdown that usually gets to about 10 seconds left before it finally kicks out a ball for me to shoot with the gun/plunger. I've never had any issues with the game not recognizing that there are no balls in play, other than these two instances. Before installing the new code, I only got to Chaos mode a few times, but none ever had this odd sequence after I had drained all of the balls during Chaos mode. Any idea what's going on here?

This exact same sequence of events happened to me a few times including last night except my countdown usually dies before the ball kicks out. It doesn't happen often and only appears to happen during the chaos mode.

In addition has anyone else removed the plastic post that attaches to the plastic to the right of the middle-right popbumper? I find every so often when hitting the ramp hard the ball flies off the habitrail and gets caught between this clear plastic post and the control room light post. I finally removed it and now the ball will fly onto the playfield which is much better than getting stuck but worried about longterm damage as a possibility.

1 week later
#2469 3 years ago

I just ordered the scoop light mod from loopcombo.com. Josh is an awesome guy from what I gather after our transaction. I emailed him asking to let me know when they were back in stock, and he emailed me back yesterday saying they were available again. I placed my order and everything seems to have gone very smoothly (so far). Can't wait for them to come in so I can install them. Super easy and clean website too!

#2470 3 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

just ordered the scoop light mod from loopcombo.com. Josh is an awesome guy from what I gather

I ordered from him , and he is a standup 100% great seller! If you have any issues he's very quick to respond ...
Your going to love your new mods!

#2471 3 years ago

yea i have meet josh couple time before.he is well known in new zealand doing pinball mods he does awesome pinball mods. as much we live half way around would you would not be disappointed

#2472 3 years ago

Any one in or near Lisboa (not gonna lie im gonna need to google where this is) that can get this guy a JP to get some nice blades made up??

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/original-inside-decals-60-shipped

#2473 3 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

I just ordered the scoop light mod from loopcombo.com. Josh is an awesome guy from what I gather after our transaction. I emailed him asking to let me know when they were back in stock, and he emailed me back yesterday saying they were available again. I placed my order and everything seems to have gone very smoothly (so far). Can't wait for them to come in so I can install them. Super easy and clean website too!

Quoted from transprtr4u:

I ordered from him , and he is a standup 100% great seller! If you have any issues he's very quick to respond ...
Your going to love your new mods!

Quoted from kimzone:

yea i have meet josh couple time before.he is well known in new zealand doing pinball mods he does awesome pinball mods. as much we live half way around would you would not be disappointed

Thanks for the kind words guys

I was working much of the weekend making a couple dozen sets now that all the printed and cut parts have finally come in to make more.

I've got heaps in stock so if you've been considering my mod you can jump right in www.loopcombo.com

BackInStock-Ad-Low_(resized).jpg

Also, if any of you guys also own a TAF, I'm in the finishing stages of a similar mod for the bare lamp bulbs in that game. It is turning out better than I hoped!

#2474 3 years ago

Awesome, I was wonder what other games you were working on. Unfortunately for me, I do not own a TAF. It might be worth visiting the TAF club thread and letting owners know there.

#2475 3 years ago

I'll leave it as a hint for JP owners for now. I'd like to reveal it once it is complete and I've got photos of it installed

I've had a request to do Tales From The Crypt next. I'll have to track one down.

If anyone has any suggestions for games that have bare bulbs like JP that could really benefit from a mod like mine, let me know!

#2476 3 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

I've had a request to do Tales From The Crypt next.

That was me ... Hope someone there can loan you one! The bare bulbs on the entrances to the ramps seem so unfinished !

image_(resized).jpeg

#2478 3 years ago

Looking for a complete repro plastic set with blue slings, anyone know of a source?

#2479 3 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

That was me ... Hope someone there can loan you one! The bare bulbs on the entrances to the ramps seem so unfinished !

You're totally right! Data East did it a lot didn't they.

#2480 3 years ago
Quoted from stwicks:

Looking for a complete repro plastic set with blue slings, anyone know of a source?

There's a place in england but quality was questioned...

#2481 3 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

I'll leave it as a hint for JP owners for now. I'd like to reveal it once it is complete and I've got photos of it installed
I've had a request to do Tales From The Crypt next. I'll have to track one down.
If anyone has any suggestions for games that have bare bulbs like JP that could really benefit from a mod like mine, let me know!

ROYAL RUMBLE MAN!

#2482 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Any one in or near Lisboa (not gonna lie im gonna need to google where this is) that can get this guy a JP to get some nice blades made up??
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/original-inside-decals-60-shipped

#2483 3 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

There's a place in england but quality was questioned...

Thanks, didn't realize this was discussed a couple pages back. Any one got some good blue slings for sale?

#2484 3 years ago
Quoted from enjoyvelvet:

ROYAL RUMBLE MAN!

There's one for sale in New Zealand right now. I might pick it up — who knows

#2485 3 years ago

I am experiencing a crazy sound glitch; worked great for a few months, but now music will stop playing at random, and most audio sounds will be substituted with the T-Rex roar. This also is reproduced in the diagnostic menu. I have uploaded a quick video showing the unique randomness of the roar;
https://vimeo.com/178262711

During idle it will also start playing the T-Rex roar when no audio is called for; displays credits and ROA-ROA-ROAAAAR-RO-RO-ROAAAAAR.
I have re-seated all the connections, but have not pulled the ROMS or board yet. Anyone have experience with this?

Possibly unrelated, the game modes with the unofficial 6.0 get confused frequently; it will activate multiple modes at the same time. It appears to activate electric fence, feed T-Rex, and Escape simultaneously. After draining a ball it will activate yet another mode, then quickly cancel it out. I'll start by pulling the ROMS and running a checksum just to see if there is any discrepancy or corruption.

Thanks for any feedback!

#2486 3 years ago
Quoted from phyreteam:

I am experiencing a crazy sound glitch; worked great for a few months, but now music will stop playing at random, and most audio sounds will be substituted with the T-Rex roar. This also is reproduced in the diagnostic menu. I have uploaded a quick video showing the unique randomness of the roar;
» Vimeo video
During idle it will also start playing the T-Rex roar when no audio is called for; displays credits and ROA-ROA-ROAAAAR-RO-RO-ROAAAAAR.
I have re-seated all the connections, but have not pulled the ROMS or board yet. Anyone have experience with this?
Possibly unrelated, the game modes with the unofficial 6.0 get confused frequently; it will activate multiple modes at the same time. It appears to activate electric fence, feed T-Rex, and Escape simultaneously. After draining a ball it will activate yet another mode, then quickly cancel it out. I'll start by pulling the ROMS and running a checksum just to see if there is any discrepancy or corruption.
Thanks for any feedback!

Some of that odd behavior sounds like a trough switch issue. ChadH commented on that somewhere in this thread... There's a kind of phantom switch that if hit will do all kinds of crazy things in the game. At least one of the trough switches is a potential trigger for that phantom switch if it's got issues affecting the switch matrix. I had it going on at one point and when I looked at my trough switches, the diodes and switch tabs were bent all kinds of weird ways making connections that they shouldn't have been. I'd recommend starting there.

#2487 3 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Some of that odd behavior sounds like a trough switch issue. ChadH commented on that somewhere in this thread... There's a kind of phantom switch that if hit will do all kinds of crazy things in the game. At least one of the trough switches is a potential trigger for that phantom switch if it's got issues affecting the switch matrix. I had it going on at one point and when I looked at my trough switches, the diodes and switch tabs were bent all kinds of weird ways making connections that they shouldn't have been. I'd recommend starting there.

That would make sense- I had some issues with it not properly registering the balls in the trough, and appeared to be resolved by cleaning up the soldering. According to the patch notes for Chad's unofficial 6.00, the "switch 28"/bug loop was set to be ignored (unless this is some other matrix fault). Just to be safe, I'll go through that section again and double check all the work and report back.
Thank you!

#2488 3 years ago
Quoted from phyreteam:

That would make sense- I had some issues with it not properly registering the balls in the trough, and appeared to be resolved by cleaning up the soldering. According to the patch notes for Chad's unofficial 6.00, the "switch 28"/bug loop was set to be ignored (unless this is some other matrix fault). Just to be safe, I'll go through that section again and double check all the work and report back.
Thank you!

Oh, I didn't know he potentially addressed that. I may be steering you in the wrong direction, then.

#2489 3 years ago

Sounds like the sound board is booting/rebooting when it makes the noise like that.

#2490 3 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

Sounds like the sound board is booting/rebooting when it makes the noise like that.

Definitely. The sound board has a power issue and is constantly rebooting. That roar is the roar that is played every time the board boots up.

#2491 3 years ago

I had a similar issue. The cause was due to the power connector from the sound board to the CPU Board I believe was not 100% seated. Or is it seeded? Either way, it was about 99.2% pushed in. That small little bit that I was able to push it in fixed it. So far it's held up. With such a small amount of movement, I probably should replace that connector. But am too lazy.

Here's the video I took of my issue to confirm it's similar to yours.

#2492 3 years ago

I have been dreading this ever since I started fixing up my JP. I've been keeping an accurate tally of all the costs I've been putting into my machine. I've finally added up that total, and it's not as bad as I thought. I MAY be able to break even if I had to sell the machine today, which, luckily I don't.

In all total, including the machine, TRex Mod, 3D Printed Gate, Loop Combo Mod, LEDs throughout, external Polk Sub, repaired and replaced parts, and even a newly ordered Flipper Fidelity speaker system, and anything else I'm forgetting; I only have about $3080 wrapped up in it. I was totally expecting $4000.

You can do the general math to figure out that I got one heck of a deal on this machine.

#2493 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I have been dreading this ever since I started fixing up my JP. I've been keeping an accurate tally of all the costs I've been putting into my machine. I've finally added up that total, and it's not as bad as I thought. I MAY be able to break even if I had to sell the machine today, which, luckily I don't.
In all total, including the machine, TRex Mod, 3D Printed Gate, Loop Combo Mod, LEDs throughout, external Polk Sub, repaired and replaced parts, and even a newly ordered Flipper Fidelity speaker system, and anything else I'm forgetting; I only have about $3080 wrapped up in it. I was totally expecting $4000.
You can do the general math to figure out that I got one heck of a deal on this machine.

It's never good to keep a tally of expenses.

It's probably the only pin I can say this about, but technically JP has made me more money than I've spent on it since it enabled me to make the T-rex mod.

#2494 3 years ago

I tell my wife that i always break even.

#2495 3 years ago

Hi guys

Couple of flipper questions.

My upper right flipper doesn't have an EOS switch.
And the switch behind the flipper button that triggers the upper flipper was adjusted to be normally closed.

With this configuration the right flipper doesn't flip.

If I make the switch normally open, it flips but does not return when you let go of the button.

I suspect an EOS switch is missing, or else something worse is wrong.

Is my setup correct? Is there meant to be an EOS switch on it?
And is the switch for the upper right flipper meant to be NC or NO?

Thanks

#2496 3 years ago

Sounds like you're missing a spring? I don't believe the upper has an EOS.

That leaf switch for the right flipper button has two levels of switches. Both should be open (space between/not touching, just incase I have my terminology backwards) when not pressed. Then when pressed, it closes the lower flipper switch, and then you press even more, it will close the upper flipper. Sounds like you just need to gap it, and add a return spring to the flipper? Or is it just not returning because it's always acting like the button is pressed?

#2497 3 years ago

Yeah, what woody said. It could be as simple as a return spring. The one question is when the flipper doesn't return is it because it is still under power or just because it doesn't have a spring? There is no EOS.
-Jim

#2498 3 years ago

You said:

Hi guys
Couple of flipper questions.
My upper right flipper doesn't have an EOS switch.
And the switch behind the flipper button that triggers the upper flipper was adjusted to be normally closed.
With this configuration the right flipper doesn't flip.

===The leaf switches under the flipper buttons are all normally open

If I make the switch normally open, it flips but does not return when you let go of the button.
I suspect an EOS switch is missing, or else something worse is wrong.

===There is a quirk in the DE Deger flipper board where if the flipper coil diode is missing or broken off on one end, the flipper will flip up but not drop back down even when you release the button. It should drop if you turn the power off. Check the coil diode on that flipper.

Is my setup correct? Is there meant to be an EOS switch on it?

===The third flipper (upper) on DE does not require an EOS switch. That's normal, although I think there should be a return spring on all 3 flipper mechs.

And is the switch for the upper right flipper meant to be NC or NO?
Thanks

===NO

RussM

#2499 3 years ago

A few weeks ago I posted a picture showing the removal of the scoop lights. Yesterday, I have also removed the shoot t-rex box. These shots are now lit by lighting the scoops themselves. After testing, I'm going to be using 1 SMD Super Flex (red). I haven't texted other colors, but the red is very bright. Plus for the scoops the SMD is thin enough to be tapped in place. I'm waiting to place my next LED order until I have my BSD, but once I do I'll post some more pictures. I've very happy with the clean look of the machine.

PS: I'm not a good player so getting to System Failure is not something that happens often. Hit it yesterday--what a crazy chaotic wizard mode.

#2500 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I had a similar issue. The cause was due to the power connector from the sound board to the CPU Board I believe was not 100% seated. Or is it seeded? Either way, it was about 99.2% pushed in. That small little bit that I was able to push it in fixed it. So far it's held up. With such a small amount of movement, I probably should replace that connector. But am too lazy.
Here's the video I took of my issue to confirm it's similar to yours.
» YouTube video

I pulled the sound board and cleaned all the connection pins and screwpost grounds, which appears to have resolved the audio roar/reboot. Thank you to everyone for the diagnosis!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
4,000
Machine - For Sale
Wentzville, MO
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 5,799.00
Pinball Machine
Classic Game Rooms
$ 29.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
3,800 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Luling, LA
There are 7150 posts in this topic. You are on page 50 of 143.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside