(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Mr_Tantrum
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There are 7149 posts in this topic. You are on page 59 of 143.
#2901 2 years ago

I've seen it happen. I think super glue, but ask the seller ( accidental ). He's a great guy and will be happy to help.

#2902 2 years ago

Break break, or just come off from it's post?

I had a heck of a time with mine rotating around the post. Don't use regular super glue. It just won't hold. I used some of that two-part epoxy mix stuff. And to make sure it had enough to grip hold of, I took pliers and marred up the end of the post. So far it's held.

Just remember to be careful and set something down on your playfield while it cures. Just incase it drips or leaks.

#2903 2 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Break break, or just come off from it's post?
I had a heck of a time with mine rotating around the post. Don't use regular super glue. It just won't hold. I used some of that two-part epoxy mix stuff. And to make sure it had enough to grip hold of, I took pliers and marred up the end of the post. So far it's held.
Just remember to be careful and set something down on your playfield while it cures. Just incase it drips or leaks.

It came off the wire that holds it to the post.

I also have a hard time with them moving a lot. Either turning, or sagging to one side or the other. Ill probably do it outside the machine, lol.

#2904 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

It came off the wire that holds it to the post.
I also have a hard time with them moving a lot. Either turning, or sagging to one side or the other. Ill probably do it outside the machine, lol.

The reason I left mine on is so that I knew it was vertically straight.

#2905 2 years ago

All 3 of mine came off and the mod creater said to use JB weld.I rough sanded the wire end for more bite as well.
So far they are holding up.

#2906 2 years ago
Quoted from bballfan:

All 3 of mine came off and the mod creater said to use JB weld.I rough sanded the wire end for more bite as well.
So far they are holding up.

Gotcha, thanks!

#2907 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

It came off the wire that holds it to the post.
I also have a hard time with them moving a lot. Either turning, or sagging to one side or the other. Ill probably do it outside the machine, lol.

They won't spin if you put down a metal or rubber washer first then wire then nut.

#2908 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

It could be a bad ram or the TV Ic is going bad or one of the associated
components on the controller board. Isolate the controller board and
plasma DMD board in order to narrow it down.

I installed the new v6.0 rom (which is very cool) but no joy on removing the video noise. Next step is to swap DMD.

I'll keep you posted.

Thank you.

#2909 2 years ago

2 more JP videos done...hope some find them helpful

Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Any one had a loop combo sign break off its mount? Had the control room one break off during my party Saturday. Any recommendations for re-mounting it?

I was actually tinkering with mine while making this video, and might have been too rough with it... I think my computer room is about to come loose at the bottom and was going to reach out to him and see what glue/epoxy he would recommend if it does actually come out and saw your post. Seems like should be an easy fix.

Quoted from woody24:

Very nice. Sure a lot of people will appreciate being able to see what they need to be doing.
Noticed your bottom row of lights on the backbox are all the same as the ones above it. For a more authentic, OEM experience, that bottom row gets the blinker lights. They randomly blink on and off slowly. I think these are the ones. http://cointaker.com/products/copy-of-545-blinker-led Just a suggestion. Maybe you didn't like them blinking?

Thanks again for the suggestion...Ordered Friday, changed the order in time, and still shipped same day, got them Monday! Took me longer to put the video together lol
Pinballlife had the incandescent #455 not LED blinkers, so I went with them. Fits well with the warm white LEDs. Maybe I'll get around to trying the cool/warm white/yellow backglass mixes at some point.

Jurassic Park Pinball (1993 Data East) - LED Bulb Comparison:

Data East Pinball (Jurassic Park 1993) - Apron Removal / Socket Adjustment / Custom Cards:

#2910 2 years ago

Quoted from vec-tor:

It could be a bad ram or the TV Ic is going bad or one of the associated
components on the controller board. Isolate the controller board and
plasma DMD board in order to narrow it down.

"I installed the new v6.0 rom (which is very cool) but no joy on removing the video noise. Next step is to swap DMD.

I'll keep you posted.

Thank you."

I see now I misinterpreted your recommendation. After doing some reading the RAM on the display board is what I need to focus on and not the ROM. I will continue my investigation.

Thanks again.

#2911 2 years ago

Interesting videos

MY JP needs to go under the knife soon. I dont want to tear it up, but it is starting to suffer.

Things on the agenda:
Replace bridge rectifiers
Replace batteries and or install NVRAM
Re-install mod plugs (right now power is low so the dmd cuts out if mods are plugged in)
Install badass Trex head
Re-install JP jeep that fell off when I moved a year ago (lol)
Fix loop combo sign
Clean/Wax machine

#2912 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

MY JP needs to go under the knife soon. I dont want to tear it up, but it is starting to suffer.
Things on the agenda:
Replace bridge rectifiers
Replace batteries and or install NVRAM
Re-install mod plugs (right now power is low so the dmd cuts out if mods are plugged in)
Install badass Trex head
Re-install JP jeep that fell off when I moved a year ago (lol)
Fix loop combo sign
Clean/Wax machine

Sounds like a fun winter project!

I recommend NVRAM. It's cheap these days and you never have to worry or think about it again.

#2913 2 years ago

Hey, also, I have started to broadcast on the HYPE app if any one is interested. I was live the other night for about 30 minutes playing my (beat up after my party) JP. Last night I did my T2, but I didnt have any watchers so I didnt upload the replay. I plan to do T2 again some time soon, and hopefully do a feature on each one. My username is "NOUSEORNAME" lol, look me up if interested.

#2914 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Interesting videos
MY JP needs to go under the knife soon. I dont want to tear it up, but it is starting to suffer.
Things on the agenda:
Replace bridge rectifiers

would love to see a how to on the rectifiers! for future reverence!

#2915 2 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

would love to see a how to on the rectifiers! for future reverence!

Just un-solder and re-solder in the new ones as far as I know. Im pretty sure the ones on the boards are good, its the ones off to the side by themselves that are bad. Not sure how to do them honestly, I havent come up with a plan yet. Do I solder them while they are still in the box? Do I disconnect all the connectors and remove the head so I can lay it flat on its back? I am by far not an expert by any means.

#2916 2 years ago
Quoted from bballfan:

All 3 of mine came off and the mod creater said to use JB weld.I rough sanded the wire end for more bite as well.
So far they are holding up.

I totally didn't see this post when I chimed in lol
Thanks for the help

#2917 2 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

would love to see a how to on the rectifiers! for future reverence!

I have to wait till mine break. Or atleast someone local who wants me to come film lol.
So anyone near 22407 in VA who wants to be a Youtube star while they work on their machine....let met know! lol

#2918 2 years ago

Anyone know if they use JP in PAPA or similar tournaments? I haven't seen it ever played, and I don't see any competition videos on pinballvideos.com or YouTube.

I'm guessing they don't use it because Data East has that feature where if you don't light your Tri-Ball by ball 3, it automatically lights it for you and is easy to get multiball. If that's the case, that seems kind of weird since there is still a lot left to play for and if you have the skill set you can really rack up some scoring in the chaos mode.

Edit: Upon further playing of my game last night, it seems that tri-ball was not lit automatically on ball 3. I vaguely remember adjusting that in the settings, to make it a bit more difficult. So maybe it is a setting where you can turn that off.

#2919 2 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Anyone know if they use JP in PAPA or similar tournaments? I haven't seen it ever played, and I don't see any competition videos on pinballvideos.com or YouTube.
I'm guessing they don't use it because Data East has that feature where if you don't light your Tri-Ball by ball 3, it automatically lights it for you and is easy to get multiball. If that's the case, that seems kind of weird since there is still a lot left to play for and if you have the skill set you can really rack up some scoring in the chaos mode.
Edit: Upon further playing of my game last night, it seems that tri-ball was not lit automatically on ball 3. I vaguely remember adjusting that in the settings, to make it a bit more difficult. So maybe it is a setting where you can turn that off.

I am not sure about actual tournaments, although I'd love to see one. The game has tournament settings (Adjustment 41) None/Pinball Expo/IFPA-PAPA/Home. I don't see anything for the tri-ball enabling by ball 3 with official code. I think if you don't get it, you just really didn't hit any of the dino targets and got no sympathy from the game lol. But the 6.0 unofficial code addresses this and makes it harder to get triball.

#2920 2 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Upon further playing of my game last night, it seems that tri-ball was not lit automatically on ball 3. I vaguely remember adjusting that in the settings, to make it a bit more difficult. So maybe it is a setting where you can turn that off.

You must be running v.6.00.

"Auto-Collecting Dinosaur Species Targets

Dinosaur Species stand-up targets would auto-collect between balls guaranteeing Tri-Ball lit by third ball. This has been removed. If the player still wants them to auto-collect, then they can switch Adjustment 7 from the default of Moderate to Easy or Extra Easy. Note: One Dinosaur Species target will now also be collected with every Egg shot and successful Dino Shootout along with the usual hitting the targets with the ball."

All the goodness of v.6.00 is listed here:
http://www.pinballcode.com/jp6

I would love to see v.6.00 played in a PAPA tournament!

#2921 2 years ago

I got a new Polk audio sub for Christmas! Anyone know how to hook up the sub, or willing to give some suggestions? This is my first subwoofer for a pin, so just want to make sure I install it properly.

#2922 2 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

got a new Polk audio sub for Christmas!

Run speaker wire from the cabinet speaker through the the cab, feed it out the air vents in the back corner... Ensure that the positive and negative connection match the sub! Plug and play... Have one on every game found when you attach more than one game per sub there is a feedback problem !

image (resized).jpeg

#2923 2 years ago

Hooked up the sub, it sounds awesome. I also have FT right next to it connected to the sub. Our pins are all packed in pretty tightly so getting access to the back isn't really possible, so I just fed the speaker wire through the little coin return flap thing.

What an awesome sounding game with this mod. Gonna need to get more subwoofers now.

IMG_3934.JPG

#2924 2 years ago

You should be able to use more than 1 pin with an external woofer if you use a mixer

I think Pinnovators sells a mixer

#2925 2 years ago

Yup...$58 for a mixer to attach up to 4 pins to a woofer at pinnovators

#2926 2 years ago

Does the sub have to be an active or passive one? I have no idea what either of these phrases mean!

#2927 2 years ago
Quoted from matt_adams:

Does the sub have to be an active or passive one? I have no idea what either of these phrases mean!

Active = powered. You plug the speaker into a wall outlet and it thumps much louder.
Passive = speaker wire only. The subwoofer in the original game is passive.

More than invisiglass and color dmd it is the best way to get immediately immersed in the game.

#2928 2 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Run speaker wire from the cabinet speaker through the the cab, feed it out the air vents in the back corner... Ensure that the positive and negative connection match the sub! Plug and play... Have one on every game found when you attach more than one game per sub there is a feedback problem !

lol, now you make me want to hook my machine up to my home theater...
That means I would need all three (2.1) channels cause I'm greedy.

#2929 2 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

Active = powered. You plug the speaker into a wall outlet and it thumps much louder.
Passive = speaker wire only. The subwoofer in the original game is passive.

Thank you

2 weeks later
#2930 2 years ago

IMG_2366 (resized).JPG

Hello club - new member here! My local arcade at the Danbury Fair Mall in Connecticut had a new JP back in '93 which I played often and became a fan, making it a must have for me since I started collecting/repairing nearly 2 years ago.

I have been reading the entire club thread here since bringing home a great example from Free Play Florida last fall, but it is taking forever read it all. I have played with the back box colors a bit, making the logo green. I probably won't keep it that way, but It's fun to play around with LEDs.

You may also notice that my JP is taller than my TAF project. The legs on JP are too long, making it 2 inches taller than standard, and it's actually fun that way. THIS PIN IS T-REX SIZED along with the big DE back box, and fortunately I still have room for the NOS topper I found recently.

My question - When a ball really sails around the ramp, the diverter must be moving a little, and a ball that should go to the right inlane, often gets launched off the ramp, and I'm worried about breaking the ramp or something else with these airballs.

Is it common to replace or upgrade the diverter coil spring or is there another fix? I have inspected the diverter and it appears to be adjusted OK.

Thanks!

#2931 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Hello club - new member here! My local arcade at the Danbury Fair Mall in Connecticut had a new JP back in '93 which I played often and became a fan, making it a must have for me since I started collecting/repairing nearly 2 years ago.
I have been reading the entire club thread here since bringing home a great example from Free Play Florida last fall, but it is taking forever read it all. I have played with the back box colors a bit, making the logo green. I probably won't keep it that way, but It's fun to play around with LEDs.
You may also notice that my JP is taller than my TAF project. The legs on JP are too long, making it 2 inches taller than standard, and it's actually fun that way. THIS PIN IS T-REX SIZED along with the big DE back box, and fortunately I still have room for the NOS topper I found recently.
My question - When a ball really sails around the ramp, the diverter must be moving a little, and a ball that should go to the right inlane, often gets launched off the ramp, and I'm worried about breaking the ramp or something else with these airballs.
Is it common to replace or upgrade the diverter coil spring or is there another fix? I have inspected the diverter and it appears to be adjusted OK.
Thanks!

Congrats and welcome!
I had issues with that diverter too. I strengthened up the coil spring, and still didn't fix it. What did fix it, was adjusting the diverter a little. It shouldn't be exactly flush with the right lane. Bring it up slightly. After I did that, I haven't had any issues.

Also, swap out the flipper buttons with yellow for that OEM look.

#2932 2 years ago

Just wanted to show off my new improved T-Rex installed on the holiday today!

20170116_111748 (resized).jpg

#2933 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I have been reading the entire club thread here since bringing home a great example from Free Play Florida last fall, but it is taking forever read it all. I have played with the back box colors a bit, making the logo green. I probably won't keep it that way, but It's fun to play around with LEDs.

You may also notice that my JP is taller than my TAF project. The legs on JP are too long, making it 2 inches taller than standard, and it's actually fun that way. THIS PIN IS T-REX SIZED along with the big DE back box, and fortunately I still have room for the NOS topper I found recently.

There's that new topper! Totally forgot this one had the tall legs, which do make it fun to play as it stands up and out in a lineup. The little more height seems to add to the rumble when the shaker gets going too. Like what you did with the green lights behind the custom scoop signs. (I'm borrowing that idea!)

Glad this beauty went to a deserving JP fan. I recall you wearing a Jurassic Park logo t-shirt the day you bought it too.

#2934 2 years ago

Slowly moving along the process of trying to resurrect my JP.

A quick review of where we are... The machine was blowing F5 fuses immediately on startup and not booting up, just showing random dots on the DMD and a hum from the speakers. An inspection of the machine revealed that the Super VUK coil was burned up. The coil has been disconnected and removed from the pin and the F5 isn't blowing anymore but the pin still will not boot - same symptoms as before, dots on the DMD and hum from the speakers.

Pulled the PPB because I know the F5 and F6 clips are fatigued at a minimum and reached out to Clive at CoinOp Caldron about board testing and repair. Clive suggested attempting to power up the machine with the PPB removed to see if the pin will boot now - and it doesn't. Same symptoms of dots on the DMD and the speaker hum.

I've already dropped a note to Clive, but any thoughts as to what the issue may be if it's not the PPB?

#2935 2 years ago

Could also be the power supply. I had a similar issue and it ended up being a cap on the power supply, not the PPB.

#2936 2 years ago

Guys, What type of wire do you use to install the palm tree mods and other dino mods. Does anybody have a link to buy some?

Thanks in advance!

#2937 2 years ago

Checked the remaining fuses in the cabinet at Clive's suggestion - other than one of the clips on the F2 fuse on the flipper PCB starting to get fatigued all tested good. However, now nothing happens when I turn the power on. No DMD lights, no sound - nothing...

The other thing I noticed, there's nothing in the SW1 position on the CPU board. Page 52 of the manual indicates that this should be the location of the NM1 switch, and I could have sworn something used to be there... Now there's nothing

IMG_0095 (resized).JPG

#2938 2 years ago
Quoted from mbabischkin:

The other thing I noticed, there's nothing in the SW1 position on the CPU board. Page 52 of the manual indicates that this should be the location of the NM1 switch, and I could have sworn something used to be there... Now there's nothing

Nope, your CPU board looks fine. See a photo of my CPU board from my JP below.

Gord

P1000422 (resized).JPG

#2939 2 years ago

Check your test points on the power supply board. First make sure you are getting correct voltages to that board. I had a similar issue and I checked all kinds of things on the CPU board and PPB, but then thought I should check the voltage on the power supply. Sure enough I wasn't getting enough voltage and through further diagnostics we found that one of the caps was bad. Can't remember which one specifically, but replaced that $1 part and it was good to go.

#2940 2 years ago

bugsy - you may be on to something... Checked page 57 of the manual to see what I could find out about the Power Supply board and discovered that CN6X15 and CN5X8 were both circled and there was a note written in the margin that said 10 + 11 9V... Since I bought the manual about a month after I bought the pin, didn't write in it and didn't troubleshoot this issue before - I'm guessing that the guy who last worked on it 6+ years ago and briefly got it working had looked into this area way back when...

#2941 2 years ago
Quoted from spikedbat:

Guys, What type of wire do you use to install the palm tree mods and other dino mods. Does anybody have a link to buy some?
Thanks in advance!

I used thick paperclips for mine. The wire works perfectly so I can't imagine how buying something would make any difference.

#2942 2 years ago

OK I have searched through this thread and don't see this listed in here, maybe I missed it. Either way does anyone have a list of all bulbs in the JP cabinet? I mean all, playfield, back box, topper area, and so on. I am wanting to build a custom LED kit instead of just playing the 200 bucks for a setup kit. I figured it someone has a list of you need so many of this type and this other type and so on that would help a ton. Also are there any mods that need to be done before I can swap any of these lights on my JP out with LED's? Thanks in advance for the help!

#2943 2 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

OK I have searched through this thread and don't see this listed in here, maybe I missed it. Either way does anyone have a list of all bulbs in the JP cabinet? I mean all, playfield, back box, topper area, and so on. I am wanting to build a custom LED kit instead of just playing the 200 bucks for a setup kit. I figured it someone has a list of you need so many of this type and this other type and so on that would help a ton. Also are there any mods that need to be done before I can swap any of these lights on my JP out with LED's? Thanks in advance for the help!

I have every single bulb I pulled out when I upgraded to LED in a jar. I have been meaning to count them all to make a list of how many of each type there are at least. Maybe I'll do that still sometime.

But for now, I'm no help to you.

#2944 2 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I have every single bulb I pulled out when I upgraded to LED in a jar. I have been meaning to count them all to make a list of how many of each type there are at least. Maybe I'll do that still sometime.
But for now, I'm no help to you.

That sounds like a great quick task to work on this weekend . Here is to hoping

Thanks either way

#2945 2 years ago

OK a quick, review of the manual on page 36 I count the following in the actual playfield

#44 Bulb = 75
#89 Bulb = 18
#555 Bulb = 9
#906 Bulb = 9

I just need a count of the back box and topper areas now. Also since so many of you have changed over to LED's what are the best for each of the above mentioned bulbs to be changed to LED? and again will I need to prep for any extra modifications to complete the led upgrade? Or will the LED replacement be a drop in replacement for all playfield bulbs?

DE JP page 36 (resized).jpg

#2946 2 years ago

Some of those 44s have wedge style bases...be careful on your order...

#2947 2 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

ch of the above mentioned bulbs to be changed to LED? and again will I need to prep for any extra modifications to complete the led upgrade? Or will the LED replacement be a drop in replacement for all playfield bulbs?

Some time ago I ordered a few led bulbs just to see how they look compared to the original ones and there is no modification needed, just plug and play.

I will order a full set some day.

#2948 2 years ago

The manual is a good guide, but I don't think it's 100% accurate. Not sure how off it is for bulbs, but it's off a little for rubbers for sure.

#2949 2 years ago

In the summer I placed an order with Comet for most of the playfield bulbs (inserts and GI). Here is a screenshot of my order. I would replace the yellow bulbs with white though. The yellow just isn't bright enough and the color is not very vivid. The rest of the bulbs are great though.

It's also not 100% perfect, I think there were some bulbs I needed/wanted to change out for some other ones. For example, off the top of my head I would like to try out the pop bumper rings instead of just the wedge style bulb. I think I also forgot the 4 T-rex bulbs on the apron. But at least it's something to start with.

I haven't done the back box yet, but that should be pretty easy to count and figure out what you need for that.

Screen Shot 2017-01-19 at 2.15.04 PM.png

#2950 2 years ago

bugsy actually sent me his order a while back, which was a ton helpful. One thing that I did change is going from the 1 LED bulbs to the 2SMD 2835 Comet bulbs. Those are basically the same bulbs that Stern use in their new games. Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the result.

One piece of advice is always buy more bulbs than you need. Multiple shipping costs are not any fun because you're 3 bulbs short.

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