Oh ok, does it still play the audio if Game Promo is on but the Attract Music is off?

You’ll need the Chad 6.0 code to get the promo (spoiler: it’s the last action hero).

Freeplay.se has them. Got mine 2 months ago.

I am working through a couple of issues on my JP before i do a full shop. I have 2 working lights and 2 non working on the TREX apron bank. Im getting power to the bulb holders but there is some corrosion on them and think my next step is replacement. I have not been successful in finding replacements the same as the existing ones. Can anyone help?

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You’ll have to get the closest thing and make it work. One of mine was flaky too but eventually got it working

I had to re-clinch and clean the lamp socket set on one JP
that came in for repair with moister damage.

Can you explain a little more what you did to clean and "re-clinch"? Thanks

I made a few posts on how I save old lamp sockets.
from simple repair to lamp sockets that completely fell apart.

Already ordered it!

Don’t know if this will help but this DEJP restoration writeup is really good! He has apron lamp issues that he has solved.

https://www.afpinball.com/restorations/jurassic-park-data-east

Does the Next Game Promotion audio play if the Attract Music adjustment is off?

Probably not, haven't tried that. So not 100% sure.

Just joined the club with a real nice all original game. Added New 6.0 code, leds and rebuilt flippers. I was shocked to see how many games were on the original audits and the beautiful condition of this game. It’s been a joy to play.

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Welcome to the group, Locksmith!

That is a beautiful Jurassic Park pinball machine!

Mines setup to loop

How many loops you looping?

https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTL19TTMF/

LOL, was something like 10 in row...that was cool.

William’s spoons do give them a bit more pop.

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Just ordered the new 6.0 game code!

Nice! Mine was still running 3.0 when I got it. I upgraded to 6.0 after a few months and the score balancing and event randomizations made it play almost like a whole new game (for the better).

for me, the drain shield lamp and the skip t-rex diagnostics was the gamechanger, followed close by randomized events and the Last Action Hero preview!

Trying to turn off T Rex test at startup. I have 6.0 code from Matts installed. I only see T Rex moves left right option or T Rex eats ball. Nothing else. Any help appreciated.

You can't turn it off, but you can skip it.

from https://www.pinballcode.com/jp6, below. The whole thing is worth a read so you see all the changes in this version.

T-Rex Diagnostics

Original: Always runs at bootup or after a reset.

Update: Holding down gun trigger at boot up or reset will skip T-Rex Diagnostics. You must have at least one full game played in your audits for this ability to become active. You only really have to be holding the trigger down the moment the game goes from showing the version info to showing attract mode. This means you can reach down with your right hand, turn on the game, then bring your right hand up to the trigger and hold it until attract mode starts.

Great. Thanks for that info.

Are there any toys / Add-ons that look extra cool on the playfield?

I'd love to see some examples.

So, i watched a video of how to install new ROM on the game (link to video is at the bottom of this text), he showed how the display looked like before installing it and it was the standard orange color.

But after he installed the new ROM and turned the game on again, the display was in full color!

Did he install a Color-DMD while he was at it or did the colors come from the new ROM?

I am so confused about this, i'd appriciate an awnser to this mystery of mine.

Edit: He said in the video that he installed a Color-DMD.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder... I personally don't like to clutter things up with matchbox cars and the like, but I did once play on a DE JP that had a goat chained up near the T-Rex head that looked pretty cool. Was similar to this one (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-goat-mod), but not quite the same.

I've finally got round to repairing the damage on my scoops and putting new protectors on.

The ball won't exit or enter the bunker, it gets lodged between the scoop and the protector.
I've tried bending the scoop but it seems the upright part is the issue. The protector is on properly and snug, but I realise the original holes are tapered slightly so maybe this has an impact.

Is it likely the whole mechanism is mounted too far forward? Could someone look at the gap behind the scoop at the bunker? Mines around 3mm or 4mm, so there's room for it to sit further back if I make new holes.

Fill the holes and move the subway back to allow more room for the ball.

Before you drill new holes, unscrew the scoop hood (and trough...I seem to recall they are one piece?) and see if you can just slide it backward a bit. The ball fit before and you had to remove the trough to install the cliffy, so I think (hope), it just got reinstalled a bit too far forward.

If find it a bit hard to believe that the clearance was so tight before that the thickness of a cliffy is what caused the issue. So hopefully it is just an adjustment required.

Anyone using a Pinsound board in your JP? Haven't ried the other variants of EndProduckt's sound pakage but his original version has inconsistent volume levels on a fair amount of call outs, especially during mode intiation.

What's your preferred sound package on thier site for JP?

Thanks

Finally got to install the new 6.0 code.

For anyone that may be interested, System-J fixed many of the issues found in Endprodukt's orginigal sound file.

https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/file/392-de-jp-ost22/

Also would like to ask if anyone has a spare opto trough mod made by Davi? I've got all new switches and diodes installed and sanded out the dimples but once in a while still have a hung ball in the trough during Chaos or System Failure.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/interest-check-data-east-ball-trough-opto-board-

Would this possibly help?
https://www.upkickpinball.com/store/p172/Trough_Anti-Magnetic_Shim_Acrylic_-_Data_East_%2F_SEGA_Pinball.html#/

I've seen those and may try one at some point. Do they hold up over time?

Davi and another Pinsider PM'd me about the opto board. Davi has a couple left so getting one from him.

My experince with modern pins is limited to a DE JP and DE R&B.

The JP is inconsistent relative to the time it takes to get a ball into the shooter lane.

Part of this problem is how hard the ball is ejected into the shooter lane and the time it takes the ball to settle and then activate the shooter lane switch. Sometimes the ball is ejected so hard it travels about halfway up the shooter lane, others times not nearly as hard. I can deal with this but would like to make it more consistent.

I replaced good old trough switch #7 with the Gottlieb style part on Macro and bent the switch just like the original DE switch. I guess I need to sand out the trough a little more. Once in a while and only during Chaos or System Failure a ball will remain in the trough.

What is the typical delay of a ball launch when a multi-ball event starts? With game modes that are all time based any delay of the ball on to the playfield does have an effect on overall score, especially System failure.

I haven't needed one...but I also haven't heard of them breaking. I imagine you could also try just cutting some cardboard to fit to test and see if it will make a difference.

Good stuff. It's a nice product.

This may not be a question about the game specificly but its for my Jurassic Park - Does ColorDMD's for Sega pins also work with Data East games?

I mean, they both have the same hardware, right?

On Free-play.se its listed as "Sega / Data East ColorDMD" so it should work, right?

(https://www.free-play.se/produkter/displayer/displayer/pin2dmd-128-x32-color-display.html)

There are two companies that sell color DMD's. One is ColorDMD and the other, the one you linked, is Pin2DMD.

I have a ColorDMD in my JP and works without any issues. I'm sure others may have used Pin2DMD and can share their experience.

After watching the video I like a lot of the colorization work on Pin2DMD better than the ColorDMD.

Looks like it should work;

Yea, so a Sega Color-DMD SHOULD also work on a Data East pin?

Are they the same size? Check the manufacturers website for compatibility.

The hardware

All 128x32 pin2dmds are compatible. Its only the large 128x64 de and sega games that use a different display.

Ive built 10 dmds and have swapped them between games. You will need to make a power wiring harness to make it work.

Do I have to sell just one kidney or both?

I got this specific ColorDMD LED display in mine, it installed and ran no problem, no extra hardware or cables needed. Looks delightful compared to the old orange monochrome.

https://shop.colordmd.com/led-replacement-display-for-jurassic-park-pinball-machine/

Haha they are not too bad...but will be plentiful going forward. https://rampomatic.com/search?type=product&q=Jurassic

I finally came around and did some measurements on the power supply board.

edit: I have an issue with a dmd that is flickering, the pixels move up and down one row.
I also seems to have an issue with power to the sound board because my White north noise filter didn't work and behaved strange.

the test points was
+11,6
-15,4
+5,29

and the DMD measurements (see attached for reference) was
1 +136
2 -113
3 key
4 ground
5 ground
6 +5,16
7 +12,06
8 +64,7

A lot of the values seems a bit off and the test point +5,29 seems high. can this be the culprit? or the -15,4?
The +136 seems high on the dmd.

one of the 2 condensators that often go bad has been replaced on my machine. Can this be relevant?

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I am no expert on DE's.

The 5 volts is on the higher side but on my DE they are closer to 4.8 volts but still run properly without wierd game issues.

Quick test.

With power off disconnect the connectors going to the DMD. Wrap the DMD high voltage connector in electrical tape to be safe and prevent potential shorting.

Plug the Whitenorth hum buster back in and turn on the game. When first powered up the Whitenorth hum buster induces a weird glitching sound for a second, that is normal. Press start and see if the sound works properly.

Turn it off, then re-connect the DMD.

If the sound works properly the DMD or driver board may be dragging down the 12 volts from the power supply.

If you were in the US would send you a used DMD I have laying around. On my Rocky and Bullwinkle the DMD would work for about 5 minutes then no display at all. Turned out to be the DMD driver board had failed and not the display itself.

Hopefully someone with more experinence can chime in.

I haven't tested the noise filter with the new dmd. I just did and there is no wierd sound. but there is little to no difference in sound level and the noise filter is getting really hot! so I removed it.

did test your method but there was no difference. The issue with the flickering dmd is a bigger problem than the small buzz from the speakers.

Yea, i've seen it and it looks great, but it may just be a little bit to expensive for me...

Also, had to replace a single lamp on the playfield. lol

(For anyone wondering, it was the "Escape Isla Nublar" lamp)

So, in the audio files of the game, there is a voice clip of John Hammond saying "Enjoy Jurassic Park!", i don't think i've ever heard it while playing...

Is it used or not? If so, when and/or how do you trigger it?