(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by Garrett
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#9901 4 months ago
Quoted from cfc0d3r:

I’ve been encountering this same issue. Haven’t had a ton of time to troubleshoot, but as strange as it sounds, when the under playfield switch between the Control Room and Bunker holes is not working (usually a loose wire I have to resolder), the sound works very well. If that is fixed, the sound does not work at all. I even installed the pin sound board and updated the rom to include all the new sounds and music that did not come with the game originally, so it would be amazing to fix it for good to enjoy it! Thanks everyone for any recommendations on how to fix this!

I don't know if this will be helpful with your issue, but I'm throwing it out there just in case. I traced my strange sound problems to bad IDC connection(s.) These connectors are crap. I focused on CN2, CN3, CN4 on the sound board, and CN7 and CN8 on the power board. I replaced two of them and reseated the rest of the wires in their cavities using an IDC insertion tool. These are all .156" center connectors. Can't say which one(s) was the culprit, but I would start with CN2 and CN3. Everything works now.

#9902 4 months ago

Hi!

can anybody help me to locate where the red wire from these solenoids (no: 11-21, possible 10 as well) attach to the power board?

they suddenly stopped working and I the main culprit at first glance seems to be this wire. I plan to check for continuity (by disconect it from the board and work my way through the daisy chain, machine turned off) because I´m not confident how to operate the multimeter using others "settings" (lite testing for voltage with the machine turned on)

manual with better resolution:
https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/J/Jurassic_Park_OPS.pdf page 47 (52 in pdf)

/J

Capturepowerboard (resized).PNGCapturepowerboard (resized).PNGfuses2 (resized).PNGfuses2 (resized).PNG
#9903 4 months ago

Did you check the fuses first? For that many to die all at once points that way.

#9904 4 months ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Did you check the fuses first? For that many to die all at once points that way.

yeah I removed them and tested for continuity. Except for the one supposed to sit underneath the playfield, which I cant find.

Can perhaps try them again. Do you perhaps know which one i might focus on?

fuses3 (resized).PNGfuses3 (resized).PNG
#9905 4 months ago

F1, 5 & 6 on the PPB, F2 on the backbox. I am not near my machine to see if there's a fuse under the playfield.

#9906 4 months ago

Would any of you how much this game would have cost NIB back in 1993-1994? This topped my Xmas list back then, and Santa did not deliver LOL. Now I am the thrilled owner of a Stern JP premium, but am still curious how much purchasing this data east game would have been the year it was released. Thanks much!

#9907 4 months ago
Quoted from Preacher:

yeah I removed them and tested for continuity. Except for the one supposed to sit underneath the playfield, which I cant find.
Can perhaps try them again. Do you perhaps know which one i might focus on?
[quoted image]

The playfield fuse is under the playfield in the very very back of it almost in the middle. Mine is hidden under a wire loom. Probably about under the mosquito If I remember correctly.

#9908 4 months ago
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:

Would any of you how much this game would have cost NIB back in 1993-1994? This topped my Xmas list back then, and Santa did not deliver LOL. Now I am the thrilled owner of a Stern JP premium, but am still curious how much purchasing this data east game would have been the year it was released. Thanks much!

I don't know exactly, but likely mid-low 3,000s. Which is around $7,000 adjusted for inflation.

#9909 4 months ago

Hi!
can anybody help me to locate where the red wire from these solenoids (no: 11-21, possible 10 as well) attach to the power board?
Try reseating CN12 and CN19 on the CPU (testing for continuity can be unreliable.) Also, power up and check the test points on the power board to confirm voltages.

#9910 4 months ago
Quoted from Preacher:

Hi!
can anybody help me to locate where the red wire from these solenoids (no: 11-21, possible 10 as well) attach to the power board?
they suddenly stopped working and I the main culprit at first glance seems to be this wire. I plan to check for continuity (by disconect it from the board and work my way through the daisy chain, machine turned off) because I´m not confident how to operate the multimeter using others "settings" (lite testing for voltage with the machine turned on)
manual with better resolution:
https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/J/Jurassic_Park_OPS.pdf page 47 (52 in pdf)
/J
[quoted image][quoted image]

Page 49 of the manual says it's connector 3 pin 6. You are going to have to teach yourself how to use a multimeter.

#9911 4 months ago

Does anyone know if the T-Rex chomping solenoid is supposed to have a 3/4 spring washer? Mine has one but it’s not always swallowing the ball, so I’m wondering if I should remove it. It’s not shown in the manual pg 70 Dino Assembly.

Thanks!

IMG_2644 (resized).jpegIMG_2644 (resized).jpeg
#9912 3 months ago

Hi!

Did your answer perhaps got cut short or is my phone acting up?

Edit reply to fixintoplay

Added 118 days ago:

nevermind, my phone was acting up

#9913 3 months ago
Quoted from Joshjowen:

The playfield fuse is under the playfield in the very very back of it almost in the middle. Mine is hidden under a wire loom. Probably about under the mosquito If I remember correctly.

This hidden fuse is really hard to find it seems. Is it attached to the wooden playfield is is it hanging loose somewhere? Different positions on different machines? Does it look different?

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#9914 3 months ago
Quoted from Preacher:

This hidden fuse is really hard to find it seems. Is it attached to the wooden playfield is is it hanging loose somewhere? Different positions on different machines? Does it look different? [quoted image]

Look behind these wires.

pinside.9a42c2118f4126ff6bf78cd2aaaa1171d3a66465~2 (resized).jpgpinside.9a42c2118f4126ff6bf78cd2aaaa1171d3a66465~2 (resized).jpg
#9915 3 months ago

@Preacher: I've been traveling a lot and my phone was probably acting up, too. My comment was, try re-seating CN12 and CN19 on the CPU (testing for continuity can be unreliable.) The PCB posts there may also need reflows at their bases, so you'll have to remove the board for that. But it's an easy chore. Also, power up and check the test points on the power board to confirm the correct voltages. Best to test play after each step.

#9916 3 months ago
Quoted from Joshjowen:

Look behind these wires.[quoted image]

No, there is no fuse underneath the wires. I’ve checked a lot! Is there perhaps a version where the fuse is located somewhere else? I’ve also done some light googleing but to no avail. Strange

#9917 3 months ago
Quoted from Preacher:

No, there is no fuse underneath the wires. I’ve checked a lot! Is there perhaps a version where the fuse is located somewhere else? I’ve also done some light googleing but to no avail. Strange

Interesting. My machine has a fuse in that area. I have no idea if there are different versions or changes during production.

#9918 3 months ago
Quoted from Joshjowen:

Interesting. My machine has a fuse in that area. I have no idea if there are different versions or changes during production.

What colored wires is the fuse connected to? That may help track it down...

#9919 3 months ago
Quoted from scootss:

What colored wires is the fuse connected to? That may help track it down...

Solid green on one end, brown with green stripes on the other.

PXL_20231108_162258804 (resized).jpgPXL_20231108_162258804 (resized).jpgPXL_20231108_162330473 (resized).jpgPXL_20231108_162330473 (resized).jpg
#9920 3 months ago

Man, what a spectacular hiding place. I checked mine there and found the Linburgh baby.

#9921 3 months ago

Nope, no fuse on mine. Strange! So the real question is, where are mine? Or is one of your fuses missing somewhere else? How many machines has this feature? Strange indeed

IMG_7761 (resized).jpegIMG_7761 (resized).jpeg
#9922 3 months ago

I recently installed cliffys on the scoops. The control room scoop eject gets hung up a times. It looks like the scoop frame can bent back a little to give it the extra few tenths. Has anyone done this or something better ?

#9923 3 months ago
Quoted from topkat:

I recently installed cliffys on the scoops. The control room scoop eject gets hung up a times. It looks like the scoop frame can bent back a little to give it the extra few tenths. Has anyone done this or something better ?

The Cliffys work best if you repair the scoop before you put the Cliffy on. If you don't do that, they'll get bent out of shape over time and won't lay flat.

Repairing the scoop is easy. Use Kwikwood* to build the sides of the hole back up and just give it a quick sanding after it dries. You don't need to worry how it looks because it will be covered by the Cliffy.

*https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8257-KwikWood-Stick-1/dp/B002NJDAJY/ref=asc_df_B002NJDAJY/

2 weeks later
#9924 3 months ago

I guess I should know if this is important or not, but... I've seen inconsistencies in bulb colors for the 3 scoop light pairs among various DEJP photos. Most common seems to be green over blue for "A", and green over yellow for the other two. Is there a correct color combination for each specific pair? And if so, what does each color signify for its respective scoop, and which colors should they be for each scoop? Or does it even matter?

#9925 3 months ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

I guess I should know if this is important or not, but... I've seen inconsistencies in bulb colors for the 3 scoop light pairs among various DEJP photos. Most common seems to be green over blue for "A", and green over yellow for the other two. Is there a correct color combination for each specific pair? And if so, what does each color signify for its respective scoop, and which colors should they be for each scoop? Or does it even matter?

looks like green on top. then from left to right, blue-yellow-yellow on the lower
BUT on mine the far left is switched so that they all go green during "system boot"

pasted_image (resized).jpegpasted_image (resized).jpeg

#9926 3 months ago

It's been a long road sorting out issues in my JP. I'm down to one.

The upper flipper will not hold. Lower right flipper works as it should. Will hold with no issues.

There is no eos switch on upper flipper and I see no loose wiring to indicate their should be one.

I've pulled and inspected the flipper board. I had to replace some fuse clips. Reflowed the connector headers.

Adjusted the flipper switch. Making good clean contact. Flips every time.

I'm inclined to think there is an issue somewhere with the flipper board but I don't know where to start. I did test all diodes in circuit, all are good. Caps all look good.

I'll add I haven't found a diagram for the flipper board. Anyone have one?

Where should I be looking?

#9927 3 months ago
Quoted from ACDNate:

I'll add I haven't found a diagram for the flipper board. Anyone have one?

This excerpt is from the DE JP manual. The electronic version of this manual can be sort of challenging to read as the actual physical manual folds out into a legal size format for these pages. Hopefully this helps you out.

Gord

DE_JP_Flipper_Schematic.pdfDE_JP_Flipper_Schematic.pdf

#9928 3 months ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

I guess I should know if this is important or not, but... I've seen inconsistencies in bulb colors for the 3 scoop light pairs among various DEJP photos. Most common seems to be green over blue for "A", and green over yellow for the other two. Is there a correct color combination for each specific pair? And if so, what does each color signify for its respective scoop, and which colors should they be for each scoop? Or does it even matter?

In line with your original take
http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/v/Finished-Games/album409/16_G.jpg.html

#9929 3 months ago
Quoted from ACDNate:

It's been a long road sorting out issues in my JP. I'm down to one.
The upper flipper will not hold. Lower right flipper works as it should. Will hold with no issues.
There is no eos switch on upper flipper and I see no loose wiring to indicate their should be one.
I've pulled and inspected the flipper board. I had to replace some fuse clips. Reflowed the connector headers.
Adjusted the flipper switch. Making good clean contact. Flips every time.
I'm inclined to think there is an issue somewhere with the flipper board but I don't know where to start. I did test all diodes in circuit, all are good. Caps all look good.
I'll add I haven't found a diagram for the flipper board. Anyone have one?
Where should I be looking?

Follow up post to quoted issue. I was pointed to the flipper board in another group. I have the original un-modified board. I have previously tested the eos switches and don't believe the modification bulletin is relevant to my issue.

I was told by an individual that he had seen failed transistors in the upper flipper section before that caused the same issue.

I started testing the transistors on the upper flipper circuit.

Tested Q15 tip32c and good. Q16 tip36c also good.

Q13 2N3904 tested good

Started on the smaller transistors.

Q17 2N3906. According to Google it's a PNP transistor. Black on base, each leg measures good. Red on base one leg open, one gives me reading of 1.188v. So that is a bad transistors right?

I go to Q11 2N3906 and I'm getting the same reading as Q17.

Q12 2N3906 similar results but .882v

Q14 labeled on the board. Schematic has a Q44 MPSA42 transistor but Q44 isn't on board. Assuming that's a typo, Q14 tests good.

Time for the questions.

1. How do I test the SR3 S2800B transistors with the heat sinks? None of the 3 giving any results testing traditionally.

2. Are my results for the 2N3906 transistors correct? I tested a couple random 2N3906 transistors on other flipper circuits and am getting the similar results.

#9930 89 days ago
Quoted from Preacher:

Hi!
can anybody help me to locate where the red wire from these solenoids (no: 11-21, possible 10 as well) attach to the power board?
they suddenly stopped working and I the main culprit at first glance seems to be this wire. I plan to check for continuity (by disconect it from the board and work my way through the daisy chain, machine turned off) because I´m not confident how to operate the multimeter using others "settings" (lite testing for voltage with the machine turned on)
manual with better resolution:
https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/J/Jurassic_Park_OPS.pdf page 47 (52 in pdf)
/J
[quoted image][quoted image]

Issue solved! there was another wire (which "feeds" the powerboard) that had come loose in its connector "house". So the lesson here is to check all wire, not only the suspected faulty one.

Thanks for the help and tips from this group!
(still curios of the origin of the hidden fuse, any insigt would be intrerestning (for context, my machine lacks it))

1 week later
#9931 82 days ago

So, my DEJP has not been working for a couple of months and this weekend I finally fixed the issue with some new parts I ordered. I also ordered game and dmd roms to get the coveted chad 6,0 upgrade. So first impression of the upgrade is that just the "hold fire button to skip t-rex diagnostics" and the lit Shoot again insert is worth the effort of installing these (took 5 mins after watching a youtube clip, and aprox 25$ in parts).

But I do have questions regarding the rules. The game did not work like it did before the massive repairs/rom upgrade. So I´m wondering if something still is not working or that the new code works different (or perhaps mine is faulty, but thats unlikely I think).

As I understand the rules regarding the different game modes (like Stampede, feed t-rex (that one is my favourite, the shaker motor going to town!) and the like) the Control Room lamps are lit at game startup and when you shoot the control room you activate a random game mode (sans lite extra ball, Stampede in 5.1 code).
When the mode is completed you either shoot the ramp or the power shed to activate the control room again (ramp, short duration; control room lamp flashing, power shed; lamp is lit until control room shot).
Is this correct?

There is 2 lamps above each scoop, green on top, yellow on the bottom. Whats the difference between these lamps?

Whats the deal with the bunker? has a blue and green lamp.

Regarding the targets around the playfield, I assumes that when you "de-lit" all lamps of a dino type, the corresponding insert at the playfield lights up? Why is some green and others red?

I noticed when playing with the 6.0 code, it seem like I more often get the seemingly random dmd-game to shoot the velociraptor (you know the one when suddenly there is a subgame at the dmd where a slow moving velociraptor (??) is moving left to right and you have to reach down mid game to shoot it for some score, and subsequent ball drain because lack of attention to the real game still going on..). What triggers this subgame to start?

Any input on these issues? my main issue is with the control room. I somethimes shoot a lit control room but no game mode is initiated. perhaps a glitchy control room switch?

picture from the web attached

Edit, I´ve read the 6,0 update log on pinballcode.com
dejp3 (resized).PNGdejp3 (resized).PNG

#9932 81 days ago

That code update is a major improvement to this game in my opinion.

That center scoop switch takes a beating. If it’s not registering check to see that it works or for a broken diode and make sure the ball is registering and not hopping over it when it lands in the scoop.

#9933 81 days ago

[quoted image]

Quoted from Preacher:

So, my DEJP has not been working for a couple of months and this weekend
[quoted image]

That one blue light should be yellow. I can't remember the difference between the yellow and the green. I reversed my lights so that it would light green when ready instead of yellow.

You probably need a new switch in the control room. My game gets played a lot and that is the only switch I've had to change out, but I've had to change it out twice. It's also one of the more important switches. Pinball Life was the cheapest place to get that switch by far last time I checked.

Control room lights for 5 seconds or so when you hit the ramp. It stays lit if you hit the Power Shed.

You should run a switch test and test all switches. Go through the manual and test one at a time, there may be one not working that you weren't even aware of.

No idea why some of the dinosaurs are red and some are green.

Shooting the dinosaur across the DMD is random as far as I know.

#9934 80 days ago
Quoted from mad_carl:

That center scoop switch takes a beating. If it’s not registering check to see that it works or for a broken diode and make sure the ball is registering and not hopping over it when it lands in the scoop.

A couple things on the switch...
- There is a service bulletin about broken diodes - https://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb43.pdf - This is why most pins have white or clear goop (silicone) on the switch underneath the playfield

- A common issue is that the ball hops over the switch. A common solution is to add some foam on the bottom of the scoop trough to stop it from bouncing over the switch. Remove the trough from under the playfield to do it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/137#post-5154447
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/137#post-5154354

#9935 80 days ago

thanks for the tips guys!

will inspect the switch and how it operates.

/J

#9936 79 days ago

Having trouble with the playfield lights mainly in the back and on the sides, the ones under the ramp don’t work either. Have looked under for broken or un soldered wires, but have found nothing, all fuses look good. Can’t find anything bad on the boards visually either. Any idea what to look for?

#9937 78 days ago
Quoted from cory79:

Having trouble with the playfield lights mainly in the back and on the sides, the ones under the ramp don’t work either. Have looked under for broken or un soldered wires, but have found nothing, all fuses look good. Can’t find anything bad on the boards visually either. Any idea what to look for?

A fuse can "look good" and still be bad. Be sure to remove and test every one. Happened to me on my PPB that had the same problem as yours.

#9938 76 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

A fuse can "look good" and still be bad. Be sure to remove and test every one. Happened to me on my PPB that had the same problem as yours.

Checked all fuses, and they are good. Not sure what it can be, maybe broken wire?

#9939 76 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

I don't know if this will be helpful with your issue, but I'm throwing it out there just in case. I traced my strange sound problems to bad IDC connection(s.) These connectors are crap. I focused on CN2, CN3, CN4 on the sound board, and CN7 and CN8 on the power board. I replaced two of them and reseated the rest of the wires in their cavities using an IDC insertion tool. These are all .156" center connectors. Can't say which one(s) was the culprit, but I would start with CN2 and CN3. Everything works now.

THANK YOU!! I was troubleshooting other connections and because I installed a new Pinsound board didn’t think to double check those. I literally unplugged the Volume connector (CN3 I think) and that worked. Sound came back - didn’t even need it plugged in!

#9940 75 days ago
Quoted from cfc0d3r:

THANK YOU!! I was troubleshooting other connections and because I installed a new Pinsound board didn’t think to double check those. I literally unplugged the Volume connector (CN3 I think) and that worked. Sound came back - didn’t even need it plugged in!

That's interesting. So how well does the new Pinsound board work this pin compared to the OEM sound board? Is it a significant improvement? And if so, in what ways?

#9941 75 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

So how well does the new Pinsound board work this pin compared to the OEM sound board? Is it a significant improvement? And if so, in what ways?

It is a night and day difference - it is an even more impactful upgrade than a Color DMD. The John Williams score is so iconic and there are many great callouts. Highly recommended.

This video (not mine) captures it well:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=k3OCADRXNjk

If you decide to do it, probably best to upgrade the speakers at the same time.

#9942 75 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

That's interesting. So how well does the new Pinsound board work this pin compared to the OEM sound board? Is it a significant improvement? And if so, in what ways?

I spoke too soon - sound out again today. I think it’s the wires from the volume connector to the potentiometer. Will be testing that this week. As for the pin sound board, I upgrade the ROM and that came with new amazing callouts and music. Better speakers helped too - got the whole set. And had a spare subwoofer laying around I repurposed so now it sounds really amazing! Rocking dual subs and new speakers

#9943 74 days ago
Quoted from cfc0d3r:

I spoke too soon - sound out again today. I think it’s the wires from the volume connector to the potentiometer. Will be testing that this week.

I believe the volume pots themselves go bad over time or develop bad/flat spots on them. Have you tried moving the pot a lot to try and smoothing out any spots? Can also disassemble and inspect or ultimately replace.

#9944 74 days ago
Quoted from cfc0d3r:

I spoke too soon - sound out again today. I think it’s the wires from the volume connector to the potentiometer. Will be testing that this week. As for the pin sound board, I upgrade the ROM and that came with new amazing callouts and music. Better speakers helped too - got the whole set. And had a spare subwoofer laying around I repurposed so now it sounds really amazing! Rocking dual subs and new speakers

Connection intermittency sure sounds like your problem. Testing can deceive you, tho. Drove me nuts until I figured it out. Best advice is to just replace and re-pin the suspect connectors with new. You're locked in to .156" post centers so you're stuck with IDC. But after 30+ years of pounding service, what can we expect? And put a new pot in, too. Mine original pot kinda worked but had burn spots inside. Big difference. Your pin deserves it, especially with the investments in upgrades you've made.

#9945 72 days ago

What board controls the playfield lights in the back and the lights under the ramp?

#9946 71 days ago
Quoted from cory79:

What board controls the playfield lights in the back and the lights under the ramp?

All lamps are listed and detailed on pages 51 - 52 of your manual, which show their board locations and logic.

2 weeks later
#9947 56 days ago

I posted this a week ago: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/de-jurassic-park-under-playfield-wire-question#post-7955318

I've been through every picture in this Club forum but am unable to get a definitive answer as to what is going on with the 3 solder tags, wires and diode.

I see the pic similar to mine has been posted on here twice but going through the posts I'm struggling to find an answer.

If anyone could please assist that would be great, "Thanks" in advance.

#9948 55 days ago

Just joined the club. Can someone take a picture and show me what I am missing here to attach to the ramp please?

Screenshot_20240107_115532_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20240107_115532_Gallery (resized).jpg
#9949 55 days ago
Quoted from Rikoshay:

I posted this a week ago: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/de-jurassic-park-under-playfield-wire-question#post-7955318
I've been through every picture in this Club forum but am unable to get a definitive answer as to what is going on with the 3 solder tags, wires and diode.
I see the pic similar to mine has been posted on here twice but going through the posts I'm struggling to find an answer.
If anyone could please assist that would be great, "Thanks" in advance.

Does your center scoop register when the ball enters? From memory the scoop switches and pop bumpers have those solder lugs.

#9950 55 days ago
Quoted from mad_carl:

Does your center scoop register when the ball enters? From memory the scoop switches and pop bumpers have those solder lugs.

i'm yet to start a game as the dmd won't work.

but thanks for the reply

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Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
5,000
Machine - For Sale
Oakhurst, CA
$ 89.99
Cabinet - Decals
Maine Home Recreation
Decals
$ 45.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
Toys/Add-ons
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