Vid, I just got my first machine, and I have been reading over your guides. Incredible work, and I commend you on being gracious enough to share this with everyone. My Firepower board isn't too bad at all, the only real wear that needs to have paint applied to it are the areas the the ball has worn down as a result of cupped or sunken inserts. At this point, it is nice enough that I don't want to pull everything and clear over the play field. I just want to make localized repair. I saw elsewhere someone uses either polycrylic or that other stuff that you recommended to "build up" the inserts and then sand them down. I'm scared to death of sanding them down...and the paint around it as well. I figured it might be easier to pull them out as per your guide, touch up the paint on the actual insert itself, and then coat the top of them with this leveling compound. After it had dried, I was hoping to use your method for leveling new inserts to fit to get it flat, and then re-install and glued it.

So the short question is: do you think this could work? Any downsides to it?

Here's an overview of the play field, you can see around the multiplier lights there are a few touchups that I need to do, but that overall it's not bad.

IMG_0782_(resized).jpg

I'd love to...perhaps I can find a spare play field and use that as the basis of a restoration, so that I don't jeopardize what I already have. Specific to firepower: how would you suggest painting any of that insane, splatter-pattern planet?

Kind of appears that way in the photos, doesn't it?

Vid: any experience with Liquitex or Spectratex paints? They are available locally for me.

Vid, any experience with this type of wax? Trying to find local stuff.

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I took pictures of the bottles. They say on them that they are all for airbrushing. Roughly the same price as what you recommended, but they are locally available.

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Vid, from a theoretical standpoint on pricing: say I sent you my Firepower play field, which has minimal wear, and all I wanted was new inserts with decals, leveled, and the play field cleared to seal in all of the original graphics, how much would something like that go for?

Thank you! I'm going to pick some up tonight.

I'm getting a pretty good condition spare Fireower play field to restore, so I can take my time. Since it's a spare, most items are off it already and I'll be taking off whatever is left. I will photograph my current one to use as a template. As far as screw holes, your drill bit method looks awesome...is it also possible to get a thin, round metal file in there to achieve the same effect? The two pics I have of the field I'm getting are here:

image_(resized).jpeg

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Point well taken, may need multiple bit sizes I suppose. I must say, I am encouraged by all of your work here, thank you!

So Vid, I've been reading your guide, and I think I have the order of what I need to do things in for my Firepower. Correct me if I'm wrong:

1. Strip play field of everything and clean over with naphtha.
2. Use magic eraser and 91% isopropyl to remove the 1980s Williams clear coat.
3. Fill in divits and other areas with bonds and sand.
4. Remove/repair inserts. Lower proud inserts, and use 2PAC to fill the bowed ones. Sand to the level of the table.
5. Lightly sand the play field to give tooth to upcoming layers.
6. Rub all over with tack cloth.
7. Spray light coating of 2PAC
8. Make the updates with Createx colors, install waterslide decals. Check all look good with Naphtha.
9. Install star roll over protectors for overspray.
10. Coat with 2 or 3 coats of 2PAC, sanding in between
11. Enjoy your work.

You beat me to posting the pic. Been thinking of it for a few days.

Vid, what about all the "nastiness" that sometimes creeps in between the inserts and the play field? Theres usually white gunk which I assume is glue + old wax of some sort, but it leaves an unsightly white ring. Most of the Firepower decals will have a black outline which would hide this, but is there anything else to be done about that crud?

Vid, just a general question regarding lacquers: I saw what you said regarding lacquers being "too hot" for other paints. What about Model Master gloss clear lacquer that I use for my models? I have sprayed it over enamel, acrylic, lacquer, and decals with thus far no issue ever. Perhaps it is different than those Minwax types in being specially made to play well with everything? Would there be downside to using this type of thing at all, especially for a first, sealing coat between the original paint and spraying Createx touch up? I ask because, like many others, I am limited in what I can do for shooting clear...meaning the rattle can "will harden in the can in 48 hours" stuff. This is because I have only one pin, and will only need to do this once. I don't want to start the clock on the can for an initial coat, rush to spray the Createx, etc...because we all know what a rush job will achieve. I'd rather save the 2PAC for the final coats once the Createx and decals are in place. Would this be feasible/advisable?

Appreciate the prompt response...thanks!

Vid, regarding the HP scanner, if we are unable to find one for a reasonable amount, and we, oh, might have an old flatbed lying around, do you think that it would be possible to use? Take the closing cover off, flip it over, and fire away?

Any of you guys used anything like this to scan graphics? Seems like it could be a cheaper alternative if used correctly, especially if it's on a bare play field that you can just scan straight on:

https://www.amazon.com/MSRM-Portable-Document-Scanner-Include/dp/B01BZYME1M/ref=pd_day0_229_4

Damn...that thing is insane.

Here is another possibility:

https://www.amazon.com/Doxie-Flip-Cordless-Scanner-w-Removable/dp/B00E00FSDU/ref=sr_1_2

I would assume that if I'm scanning to make a decal of a small 1"X1" area...none of these would be that bad.

That is pretty cool...I'd never have thought of that.

Did you happen to use setting solution for the decals? Did you coat with anything before? I plan on using a very thin coat of clear spray lacquer that I use for my models to seal the decals. I know for sure that stuff doesn't wreck decals, and it also stays clear.

Hi Vid, after doing all the work on the electronics of the game, I am now turning to restoring my extra playfield that I purchased. It's in fairly good shape, inserts all are in pretty good condition, and there are minimal issues with the graphics. I took some photos in partial sunlight so that you can see what I am dealing with. I have removed almost all of the pieces on the play field. IMG_3572 (resized).JPG

Close up, you can see that most of the inserts are practically level, if even slightly proud, they are easily pushed back down. Slight cupping, very slight, which I think can be easily filled with your clear method. Otherwise, the pitted areas around the inserts, is it better to leave them as-is, and try to fill around them with bondo, or just remove them (as they need to be re-glued anyway) and fill the sides, paint, and reinstall them?
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As you can see, my young daughters also want to help!

There are a few areas that the paint has been scratched out, either by removing the metal cover from the ball return or something else. They don't look that bad. Lastly, the shooting lane doesn't look too bad. There's a few rough areas of grain, would these be best off filled?
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My final question: This thing looks like it has, as you have previously stated, the most pathetically thin coat of clear, if anything. 91% alcohol and the Magic Eraser, I'd assume?

Thanks for your help.

That's true, you are right. Longevity wasn't the plan.

Vid, the mylar by my bumpers on the replacement play field I am working with looks like it was taken off long, long ago. There is still some adhesive residue on the play field. Do you think that will come off with the flour/alcohol method you prescribe, or being so dried out will it be especially tenacious?

I have to say, on the old adhesive, and the still-applied pop bumper mylar I just removed...the flour and alcohol method made it almost too easy! I practically wiped the stuff off to a smooth finish underneath! That is an awesome method, for sure.

Here is another question: all those little stars on my Firepower's black space areas are somewhat yellow...what a bitch to try and frisket/spray all those! No one is doing that i assume...is there an alternative way?

Vid, do you do this right after taking the old top coat off? Is it ok to do that prior to leveling/replacing inserts and all of that? I'd just love to get some clear on the paint so that way I can lock the old paint in in case I make a mistake with the Createx when I start with that.

Ok I was thinking maybe even a mist coat, but that makes sense.

When you guys come across inserts that are otherwise ok beside ruts and streaks in them from ball motion, do you just remove them (or leave in) and sand/polish the surface?

I follow you with not taking them out unless broken...only two I need to replace are faded badly. My question is for the ones that are in there and have the old clear over them. Despite what you have said about the clear on the 1980s Williams games...this Firepower field has some tenacious clear over at least the inserts. I have been using 91% alcohol and ME. My question is: how long does it take you to get this stuff off on your average play field of this era? I've been working at it for several hours, and I'm still not sure how to tell if I have it all off.

On the inserts themselves, the ruts on them are just part of the old clear. On one, I managed to get to get the clear off after much ME and scrubbing...but also removing a good portion of the surrounding paint, as you can see in the picture. The 50,000 insert was scrubbed clean, sanded with 500 grit, and then clear was dropped in it. The 30,000 has not been touched for comparison. Is it supposed to take that long sanding off these things? Anyone have a faster method? This will take weeks at this rate! Are you supposed to just re-paint the surrounding area on all of them?

I threw in two pics of the 3000 w/Lit insert which I am working on now (before and after), you can see the small crescent of the clear still on it...as well as the expanding paint loss!

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The cear that is on the inserts makes such a haze that even putting clear over it doesn't magically make theninsert appear clear from below. To make the insert look clear, all the old clearcoat has to come off (at least on my game). The rest of the play field is being stripped of clear coat and sanded.

Quite interesting, Vid. You make an excellent point. I had not quite considered that. I'm going to rethink this...

Alright, so after considering everything, and having come this far, I am basically all in: got my Createx and Frisket, just ordering some 2PAC now. I want to make this thing nice. The only thing that I do not have the resources for is spraying the 2PAC...kids, lack of space, weather, etc...it's just not happening. So my hybrid solution is this: I'll foam brush it on as I would polyurethane (unless you guys think it will eat the foam) and get it as smooth as possible for the first coat, and then the overcoat for the decals, sanding in between. Then, for the final coat and buffing, I'll bring the board to the local auto body guy and have him do that part.

Good call on the test. No reason I can't see how it goes on some spare wood.

Not aerosolizing the particles. The off gassing of fumes under a vent is different that spraying the actual stuff all over the place. I do see what you are saying, however. It would awful as the final coat. I certainly wouldn't do that.

I didn't read through all of it, but, good lord, that is one heck of an experience! I am sorry that it was just that tough to do!

Agreed with the mist, I learned that the hard way with model decals that were cheap back when. I think I may have found a solution, however.

One additional question: I saw that, prudently, you said to wear the respirator when filling inserts, etc, with 2PAC. I'm assuming the bunny suit and all that is not required, just enough time for the 2PAC stench to dissipate.

I know this has probably been beaten to death over the years, but the old links just don't work anymore: anyone know a good source of the plastic primer online somewhere? I can't be sure if what I am finding is the right stuff.

One more question, Vid: you said you do your insert repair prior to laying down clear, which is what I am attempting to do. How is it that you can fill the inserts with 2PAC, and then sand them down without sanding down the paint on the play field? I am sure you can be very, very careful...but is there any other way at all? I already have removed the old top coat with ME & EtOH.

Just what I thought...thank you for the confirmation.

Anyone tried to bleach white, opaque inserts? I have one or two that are much more yelllow than the others. I know some people in the computer resto world have bleached gray plastic cases back to gray from having a yellowish tinge.

If you have a Hobby Lobby near you, they sell Createx in-store.

Vid, I re-glued a few inserts after removal and sanding, and some sunk in about 1/2 a millimeter or so, very slightly, but you can see a bit of a wood ring around...can I somehow paint that a bit, and drip in clear? Or, should I put the clear on, and then just use the new decals to cover over that?

I know I was hanging in suspense as I scrolled down...

For inserts with chips and small gouges on them, will the process of leveling with 2PAC fill those in so they are unnoticeable? Or should they be sanded down to remove that and flatten it out before using the clear?

Vid, when you talk about wiping in the paint on, say, a black background, would you do that prior to a lockdown coat? Or would you do it after?

Ok, so I think that I might have screwed this one up. On my FP, I re-glued the extra ball insert after some pretty serious sanding. Unfortunately, I got interrupted by my nephew after gluing, and the thing sunk quite a bit after the epoxy dried. Here are some pictures of the results:

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Now, of course, it is glued in place. Is this too deep to paint the sides, fill with 2PAC, and later on place the key line decal and hope for the best? Or, can I do that and have it look decent? Do I need to chisel this thing and it's epoxy out and order a new insert?

I just wanted to comment on the main topic of this thread: good vs. bad restorations. I was at Pintastic today, and I saw examples of both. One machine that I saw had one of those really awful repairs that Vid talks about: there was a crater worn in the center of the play field, and the "repair" consisted of someone using crude paint to fill in the artwork over the crater...without fixing the depression itself!

On the flip side, there was a beautifully restored Strikes and Spares. I was really impressed with the play field and shooter lane. Check out the pictures below:

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It also played really well. I'd have bought it if I had the money. Very well done. This was the first time I was at this type of show, and I could see Vid's words played out in front of me regarding good and bad repairs.

An order of operations question here: Once I do a lock-down coat of clear, do you sand that and lay down the createx, or the createx will lay down right over it? After the createx is down, do you sand it and the rest of the play field before putting down the next clear layer? After that, do you recommend putting a thin layer of clear over all paint before putting on decals? I'd figure doing that would make sense since decals do best offer a gloss surface.

I'd have to guess that those are probably mold spots. That's what they look like to me.

Last clear question, I hope!

After laying down the decals, I know you suggested a mist coat before the final coat or two. Once the decals are down, can you spray right over the last layer and the decals without prep? It would seem that you would want tooth for those last layers, but how could one sand if decals were just applied? Would t make sense to me.

Microscopic flaws only you can see or not... it's a hell of an improvement over where you started!

Can't wait to see it back in the machine. My Firepower project feels like it will take forever.

Vid, the number paint on my inserts isn't that bad, but I am planning on decaling over it anyway. If I sand the inserts for painting, will this ruin the graphics underneath if too zealous? Or do you suggest just sanding clean all inserts and re-decaling everything?

Vid, would you recommend laying decals over inserts that already still have their paint on them? For instance, if an insert has a perfectly legible "F" over it, and looks ok, is there any point to putting a decal over it, or is that overkill? Would it make sense to if the letter is ok, but, as on most decals, the key lining is crappy and could use a new ring of black over it?

How about gouges like this on top of inserts? Should I just sand and fill with clear? Or should I take off all of the top, including paint, and get it back flat?

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Yes! I promise I wasn't going to sand flat! Thanks for all the guidance.

Hey everyone, I wanted to recommend a heat gun that I have had a lot of good success with: The Wagner Furno 700.

https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503070-Furno-Heat-Tool/dp/B01M7OT2EM/ref=sr_1_2

It is very forgiving for any user, as the temperature is set directly by degree in a wide range, not just "Low-Medium-High" settings that you can easily use to char your project. Comes with 4 or so adaptors to direct the hot air where you want it. Very versatile, and well made, too.

Any suggestions as to how I can clean out all of the crud inside the teeth of my star inserts? I've been trying to floss things in and out of there, but it's not going very well.

Working beautifully...thank you!

Looking back, I saw a post regarding when you are all finished, waiting a full month before sanding and shooting the final layer of clear. Is that right?

I'm going to be doing 2K Spraymax on my Firepower restoration soon...I'll let you know how it goes!

Vid, I just managed to fill in my inserts with 2PAC. Some got overfilled in the process...I hope that isn't a big issue, but on the large "hot dog" inserts, it was necessary to fill in the gaps between the play field and the inserts.

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Second, I was wondering something else while doing the filling. In theory, once the whole thing is sanded flat and wiped with Naptha, couldn't one just fill up the entire play field with eyedropper 2PAC? Or would this cause far too thick of a layer for what we are shooting for?

Good question...ill be finding that out soon enough...

Yeah, sounds like a huge PITA. Always thinking of "what ifs." Now that the stuff has partly cured, I noticed some pin-hole size bubbles in a few of them that weren't there before. I assume I can just sand that out. All n all, mixing the stuff and using the eyedropper wasn't bad. You weren't kidding with needing the glass jars and droppers, though. The stuff is reactive!

As for sanding it down after, whats the best way to sand it flat, but not start sanding down the paint around it?

I see what you are saying. So, I can actually just degloss the entire playfield, insert areas and all, and spray the clear. Then, once the whole thing has hardened, sand down the lumps flat with somewhat impunity because all the paint is now covered with clear...makes sense.

One last thing: I noticed yesterday that the playfield had a slight bowing in the center. Is there any good way to make the entire thing flat, or will it just naturally do that once it is back in a cabinet?

Have an illustration of that? Such as where to clamp?

Yeah, it isn't horrendous. I think it can be put back. I took a picture of it with my level over it. You can see the slight gap:

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It would work out great...only he said "while you clear"...not sure how I can work the two for one!

I see what you are saying: attach them on the flip side, upside-down, and they should straighten it out being screwed in/clamped.

So, I am starting to degloss the table. Some of the insert fill is so bulbous, that it is leaving a ring of still glossy paint around the fill that is hard to get at. Any tips for getting into that small area?

Quick question, Vid. My 3x insert somewhat sagged from heat and developed lines in the plastic itself. I figured that would go away when I filled with 2PAC, but they seem to only have been accentuated. I tried getting into them while deglossing with the steel wool, but it looks like they are really far under there. What to do about this? Any way to stop this in the future?

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Thanks, I used the chisel method plus sanding. I got past the old clear, sanded off the ink, and now the insert appears clear without blemish. Just have to drip in clear and try again. Thank you!

This is the stuff I have. Got it on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H9MF6Y2/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp

Firepower. The only resto I will ever do! Lots of work involved...fun, but I have little kids. Difficult to find time for using 2PAC and such!

Actually, what he recommended to me was to insert fill first, then spray your first coat. After having just filled them, it makes sense to me why.

So I finally got down to it, and got my "booth" set up, got dressed up in a ll the gear (minus the gloves in the pic), and sprayed the thing. The SprayMax 2K worked pretty good; it was hard to see how much I was spraying because it was kind of dark, and I wound up with some of that whiteness in places that comes from too heavy spray. I'm fairly certain it will go back to clear as it cures as other things do. Vid, I'll keep you updated, and thanks for all of your help!

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Vid, I am knocking down the mounds over my inserts after filling with clear and spraying my first lockdown coat. 500 grit is taking hours to take down the mounds sanding with the hand drywall sander. Can I use 220, or do you think that is a bit too aggressive?

Alex, you and I appear to be on parallel tracks...

Yeah, I learned this one the hard way by accidentally sanding off a tiny spot of the planet on the play field today. I was wondering how the heck to sand down those mounds with 220 on the big drywall sander. I guess Vid didn't mean to use that big thing over the huge mounds...

Yours is coming out nicely as well. I see you have all new jeweled inserts, that was pretty ambitious. I screwed up a little tonight myself, a product of being a bit too ambitious I suppose, but nothing that can't be fixed I feel. Do you have your own dedicated thread for this?

Vid, things have been coming along pretty well with my Firepower. Got the first coat of clear down, and sanded the filled inserts almost flat. A few things I did kind of bass ackwards: used the flat sander to take down the inserts and inadvertently reduced the clear around them to nothing, exposing the surface again. I assume that isn't too big of an issue since I will be clearing over it again...but the inserts (some of them) are still ever so SLIGHTLY higher than the surface. Better to try and cut them down a bit now by hand, or just do the extra clear layer and then sand them down?

Also, after the next coat of clear, I'll be doing the decals. Reading through your guide a few times now, it would appear that I should leave the surface clear, lay down the decals, then sand everything around the decals for the next layer to stick to. If I remember, you said to NOT sand under where the decals will be because of decals adhering better to a glossy surface.

As an aside, I just started mixing and using my Createx to repair the play field...you are so right, this stuff is so easy to mix, match, and put down. It's a blessing!

Thanks for the clear sanding tips. My next question is that I am still trying to understand what is the best way to go about doing the decals. Let’s assume for argument sake I just laid down a layer of fresh clear after doing my paint touch ups. From what I understand, I should then lay down all the decals, and once they are set, sand the entire table flat again EXCEPT right over the decals. Then, I should spray a mist coat of clear, wait about 15 minutes, then spray a full coat after. Is this correct?

Is my shooter lane bad off, or does it look reasonably acceptable?

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Thanks, plan to soon. Appreciate all of your help.

The time between laying down a coat and needing to sand before another varied between products, I know, and varies with temperature, etc...but any relative time for the SprayMax 2K? Roughly 12 hr? Temperature around here is anywhere between 50-70 degrees F this year...unusually warm.

http://usa.spraymax.com/fileadmin/download/spraymax/spraymax_tmb/TMB033_US.pdf

I think my shooter lane came out pretty good after blending in the putty:

IMG_2083 (resized).JPG

No issue for you then. I left my GI sockets in place, so I put the bulbs in, as per the guide, to keep the clear from fouling the electrical contacts inside. If you have no sockets, you need no bulbs.

I can’t tell you how many questions and repeat questions I’ve asked in this thread. Don’t want to make more mistakes than I already have.

Vid's thread has now become centenarian.

Vid, I just laid down my third coat of clear after flattening the play field. Decals are next. My question is how long is long enough for the clear to cure before doing the decals? If I want to spray ASAP so I do t have to sand, obviously there is a window between when I can do the decals, and when is too late to spray the clear without sanding. The SprayMax I’m using says it has a flash time of 12 hours at 60 deg F, close to what it is here now, if that helps.

Alternatively, this paragraph from your guide is intriguing:

“Since you need to clear coat over the decals, sand the whole playfield down to 1000 grit so the next layer of clear has some "tooth" to adhere to. Since you can't sand the decals, you need to do this BEFORE you install them.”

Does that mean I can place decals over a 1000 grit sanded, napthaed, and then tack clothed playfield? Or am I reading that wrong?

Here is another, more urgent question: apparently, a few bubbles I thought I got rid of created pin-sized holes in my new clear coat. I payed it down about 3 hours ago: can I use a toothpick or something with 2PAC to fill them in and have it melt right in?

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Ok, need what I hope is a quick answer here: I just laid down my decals over my last clear layer. That was 3 PM (for the clear). I'm getting up at 7, less than 24 hours after the last clear. I plan to just shoot right over it, so I don't have to sand around the decals. Question is: I should NOT use naphtha this time, just a tack cloth, right? The naphtha I figure would destroy the decals. Also, the little water spots on the play field from putting the decals on: leave them, or attempt to wipe up with a wet towel?

First, I would like to thank Vid and all others that have helped me thus far on my play field restoration. I am virtually done as of now, and I couldn't have made it this far without all of you.

Decals are placed, last coat of clear is on. The only issues I have are very, very tiny specs that I think are microscopic bubbles that have lifted up on two or three of the decals. You can see them in the last two pictures (one is the "SHIELD ON" indicator; the other is the right outline "S"). Do you think I can leave them as-is, and they will be ground down by ball motion, or should I fix them? If fix, can I use miniature sanding pads/novus to just spot fix them, or do I need to do the whole play field flattening/buffing routine? If the latter, I'd probably farm it out to a body shop!

Lastly, is the last coat too thick in everyone's opinion, or is it just right?

I am very pleased with the results. Again, Vid, I could not have done all of this work without your guide and your expertise. Thank you again!

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Thank you, and I want to! Even if they cause little upraised dimples on the surface it is ok?