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Quoted from lb1:Is adhesion ok in the valleys of the orange peel which will not be sanded?
Just make sure that there is no shiny areas, the paint won't stick to gloss
(Topic ID: 33446)
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Hey Vid,
Can I apply water slide decal right over an airbrushed painted area, then final clear? Or I need to apply some clear over the painted area before doing the water slide decal?
Also, I understand that the first coat of clear over waterslide decals should be a light coat to avoid melting the decals. What about a light coat, wait 20 min and then do a first heavier coat of clear? Would that be enough time?
Thanks buddy.
Tyngsborough, MA
Quoted from Plumonium:Hey Vid,
Can I apply water slide decal right over an airbrushed painted area, then final clear? Or I need to apply some clear over the painted area before doing the water slide decal?
Also, I understand that the first coat of clear over waterslide decals should be a light coat to avoid melting the decals. What about a light coat, wait 20 min and then do a first heavier coat of clear? Would that be enough time?
Thanks buddy.
From reading this thread I believe you want a layer of clear under the waterslide as to keep the surface tension the same on top and bottom.
Hey Vid. Just picked up a Party Animal and the playfield has some serious bubbling around the inserts. I read through the guide and I'm thinking the section on ghosting is what I should try but I'm not sure that is necessarily my problem because the bubbling isn't always just on inserts but sometimes connects two inserts or goes outside of decal area. Any ideas? I don't need it to be perfect just hoping to make some positive steps.
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:Hey Vid. Just picked up a Party Animal and the playfield has some serious bubbling around the inserts. I read through the guide and I'm thinking the section on ghosting is what I should try but I'm not sure that is necessarily my problem because the bubbling isn't always just on inserts but sometimes connects two inserts or goes outside of decal area. Any ideas? I don't need it to be perfect just hoping to make some positive steps.
I looks like the protective Mylar is bubbling, not regular ghosting.
Is that what we're seeing?
Quoted from vid1900:I looks like the protective Mylar is bubbling, not regular ghosting.
Is that what we're seeing?
I think so. Also possibly a combination of the two.?.? This is my first machine with these type of issues so I'm not entirely positive.
Hey Vid-
Seeing that the painted or inked playfield wood is a different surface material than the inserts, does it make sense that one should apply or dab on a specific plastic primer or adhesion promoter over the inserts if they were sanded down to the plastic?
Could this help insure or eliminate ghosting problems in the future?
What adhesion promoter would be suitable for dabbing on over the inserts?
I just had the rear rubber bumper of my van repainted under warranty due to the paint checking/lifting. The paint manager said they either didnt use the adhesion promoter or used the wrong one.
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:I think so. Also possibly a combination of the two.?.? This is my first machine with these type of issues so I'm not entirely positive.
Look for the edge of the Mylar, then follow behind it and see if it is covering those problem areas.
Quoted from vid1900:Look for the edge of the Mylar, then follow behind it and see if it is covering those problem areas.
Yes. All of the problem spots are under Mylar so must be Mylar bubbling not ghosting. However the Mylar is quite large and covers the majority of the playfield so I am not sure that removing it will be very viable.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Seeing that the painted or inked playfield wood is a different surface material than the inserts, does it make sense that one should apply or dab on a specific plastic primer or adhesion promoter over the inserts if they were sanded down to the plastic?
The best way to get the clear to stick is to have a very rough surface. 2PAC sticks to 400 grit sanded plastic just fine, and shows no scratches once cured.
Quoted from pinballinreno:What adhesion promoter would be suitable for dabbing on over the inserts?
I've used Bulldog Adhesion Promoter on a brand new inserts to see if it melted them or not, and it seems fine.
Test on a junk insert to make sure it's compatible with the era of game you are restoring.
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:Yes. All of the problem spots are under Mylar so must be Mylar bubbling not ghosting. However the Mylar is quite large and covers the majority of the playfield so I am not sure that removing it will be very viable.
I'd suggest just leaving it as is.
You run a risk of paint loss if you remove the Mylar. You can see the Mylar has pulled the paint off the inserts already.
One day if you ever restore the playfield, you can remove the Mylar, and re-decal the inserts.
Quoted from vid1900:I'd suggest just leaving it as is.
You run a risk of paint loss if you remove the Mylar. You can see the Mylar has pulled the paint off the inserts already.
One day if you ever restore the playfield, you can remove the Mylar, and re-decal the inserts.
Thanks Vid. That is probably what I'm going to have to do for now. It doesn't look half bad when the lights are on so I think I can live with it. Okay, now on to read your flipper rebuilding thread 
I'm about to purchase a project 1966 Cross Town. It needs a lot of work, but that's why I want it. There is one spot on the play field that concerns me and I could use some advise on how to repair it. Just above the left flipper there appears to be a split in the wood and it is puckered up. Is this something that can be repaired and how? Thanks for the help.
Quoted from Silverstreak02:it. Just above the left flipper there appears to be a split in the wood and it is puckered up. Is this something that can be repaired and how? Thanks for the help.
Easy fix.
Remove the apron and the left flipper + mech.
Vacuum out any debris from under the pucker (test that it's all clean by pressing the pucker down).
Fill void with TiteBond III, using a 12" C-clamp + wax paper + wood block, clamp down on the pucker.
Immediately, remove the clamp and wipe off all the glue squeeze-out from the surface of the playfield.
Re-clamp with new wax paper and allow to dry over night.
Hey Vid,
I have a question about reattaching old Mylar. I have a Banzai run that I just recently found that has some bubbles on a couple inserts. This piece of Mylar is fairly big which makes me nervous about trying to remove for my first Mylar removal. Is there anyway that the bubbles can be reglued to keep from removing the Mylar from 3/4 of the playfield. Thanks
Quoted from codered9394:Hey Vid,
I have a question about reattaching old Mylar. I have a Banzai run that I just recently found that has some bubbles on a couple inserts. This piece of Mylar is fairly big which makes me nervous about trying to remove for my first Mylar removal. Is there anyway that the bubbles can be reglued to keep from removing the Mylar from 3/4 of the playfield. Thanks
If the bubble is fresh, you can sometimes warm it with a hair dryer and press it back down (you will need to make a pinhole in it to let the air out).
If it's old, the glue might not be sticky any longer.
Whangarei
Quoted from codered9394:Hey Vid,
I have a question about reattaching old Mylar. I have a Banzai run that I just recently found that has some bubbles on a couple inserts. This piece of Mylar is fairly big which makes me nervous about trying to remove for my first Mylar removal. Is there anyway that the bubbles can be reglued to keep from removing the Mylar from 3/4 of the playfield. Thanks
I would certainly try what Vid has suggested with the hairdryer but please dont try and remove the mylar. My Banzai had the same problem and I removed the mylar (before reading Vids guides) and pulled up most of the paint off the inserts.
Ive been waiting for the CPR playfield for 5 years now.
The main thing I learned was dont touch something unless you really have to or know exactly what you are doing.
Just play it and enjoy.
Quoted from kimber:I would certainly try what Vid has suggested with the hairdryer but please dont try and remove the mylar. My Banzai had the same problem and I removed the mylar (before reading Vids guides) and pulled up most of the paint off the inserts.
Ive been waiting for the CPR playfield for 5 years now.
The main thing I learned was dont touch something unless you really have to or know exactly what you are doing.
Just play it and enjoy.
Thanks. I may just leave it alone.
Quoted from kimber:I would certainly try what Vid has suggested with the hairdryer but please dont try and remove the mylar. My Banzai had the same problem and I removed the mylar (before reading Vids guides) and pulled up most of the paint off the inserts.
Ive been waiting for the CPR playfield for 5 years now.
The main thing I learned was dont touch something unless you really have to or know exactly what you are doing.
Just play it and enjoy.
What technique did you use on your Banzai (heat gun/hair dryer, freeze spray, chemicals, etc.)?
I have a Medusa with a really nice playfield, full mylar, the mylar has small air pockets under it and over the inserts, seems like it would probably come up easy with a heat gun and patience. Would look a lot nicer without the ratty old mylar on it. Read about others having success doing so... Sooooo tempted to try to remove it. 
Quoted from Fytr:What technique did you use on your Banzai (heat gun/hair dryer, freeze spray, chemicals, etc.)?
I have a Medusa with a really nice playfield, full mylar, the mylar has small air pockets under it and over the inserts, seems like it would probably come up easy with a heat gun and patience. Would look a lot nicer without the ratty old mylar on it. Read about others having success doing so... Sooooo tempted to try to remove it.
I used a Goo Gone Citrus type cleaner and left it to soften the glue - it did not go well, the paint on the inserts was easily pulled off.
This was before I knew about Pinside and all the good advice here.
I am now happy to accept minor defects and only fix things that affect gameplay or can cause further damage if left.
If you are really keen read all the guides here and experiment on a small area somewhere out of sight as possible.
Quoted from Plumonium:Can I clearcoat at any humidity level without problem if temp is OK?
I plan doing CC this week end in my shed but it will be raining and high humidity. I can install a deshumidifier to try to lower it.
If in doubt, read the label of your brand clear, or call their tollfree number and ask.
I may have screwed up... I'm prepping my JP for a minor restoration. I used wood epoxy on the C & A hole wear. I was planning on spraying some 2k today or tomorrow. I noticed my Stampede insert looked to be ghosting which I did not see before. A little exploring and I could see that the entire graphic on the insert was peeling away. This is where I likely really screwed up... I peeled it and it broke in 2 
Now what do I do about this area? Do I put the puzzle pieces back together or create a decal? I do have a full scan of the playfield before I did anything. I was thinking that I would just recreate the Stampede portion on touchup the boarder and be good but now i see that the screen area has a tint to it.
IMG_20170617_110710025 (resized).jpg
Easy fix.
Don't get a bunch of fingerprint oil on the pieces.
Put small amount of 2PAC on the insert, stick pieces back in place, cover with wax paper, clamp:
Question- I'm looking at using Krylon 1323 Satin Clear to protect some paint work on a cabinet, anyone have any feedback? I know this is a PF related thread but there is a lot of discussion of clearcoats here and thought a forum member might have given the stuff a try out.
Its not poly or acrylic based according to Krylon and states non-yellowing.
Thanks for your time and consideration.
So i was reclearing my flash playfield, and shot the first coat. As i understand the posts, i should give it 24 hours to set and then repaint anything, sand between coats, and recoat. 2 things....1. What grit sandpaper should i sand between coats with? 2. Should i sand before or after touchup paint?
Vid, I'm thinking about trying to mix my white Creatix paint to match the yellowed base color of the planet for Firepower. I can then print up a decal of the sections of the planet that are jacked up on mine, since all that will print will be the crazy hash marks everywhere. If I am successful in matching the color and spray it, do I need to clear once more a locking coat before applying the decals? Or can I go right on top of the paint and then lock in? Keep in mind I already have clear on the table.
I'm hoping I could just apply right on top as then I'll be able to do all my insert decal work at the same time.
Quoted from vid1900:It can, depending on how naturally oily you are.
Clean off any fingerprints with Naphtha
Reading this after reading the "pinball is gay" thread gave me a good chuckle.
Quoted from dawasa:I have an X Files I am restoring which has Playfield wear by magnet. I am considering using Bondo to fill/repair. Any thoughts?
I was going to use Bondo Rotten wood prep 1st. This product stiffens loose wood to create a solid foundation for Bondo filler.
Should I remove more wood in repair area to make a deeper void? Or leave it as is and begin repair?
I plan on air brushing after repair, but need to learn how to air brush 1st. What primer should I use prior to air brushing and is there a primer that can go through the air brush to avoid brush strokes? Anyone have a decal scan of this area?
I use plastik kote sandable primer. You can airbrush almost anything with the right airbrush. Cut the end off a drinking cup and spray into the cup. Make sure the airbrush is designed for solvent based paint.
Quoted from Locolorenzo22:So i was reclearing my flash playfield, and shot the first coat. As i understand the posts, i should give it 24 hours to set and then repaint anything, sand between coats, and recoat. 2 things....1. What grit sandpaper should i sand between coats with? 2. Should i sand before or after touchup paint?
Here I have shot the thin "lock down" coat, all the cupped inserts are filled, and have sanded the playfield flat with 400g paper.
I still need to hand sand or wire brush to get the shiny depressions roughed up.
Now, with the rough surface, I know paint and clear will stick no problem.
Quoted from shutyertrap:If I am successful in matching the color and spray it, do I need to clear once more a locking coat before applying the decals?
Usually decals won't stick to paint unless it's really high gloss.
Probably safest to lock down all the paint with clear, then decal over the glossy surface.
Vid, something I didn't see, or just missed it, How many coats of clear? I know you have to sand between coats, but didn't see how many you recommend. I also didn't see too much about the actual spray method. I think you said something about flood and go. can you explain a little more, or point me to the post so I can read it. thanks
Quoted from Insane:point me to the post so I can read it
Vid, how do you find certain posts? Divulging your search methods might make it easier for us to find the post we need.
Bruce
Quoted from Insane:Vid, something I didn't see, or just missed it, How many coats of clear? I know you have to sand between coats, but didn't see how many you recommend. I also didn't see too much about the actual spray method. I think you said something about flood and go. can you explain a little more, or point me to the post so I can read it. thanks
2 thin coats over all your work is plenty.
If you make it too thick, your flippers will drag.
You are sanding to keep things flat, so those lock down coats are thinner than you think.
Quoted from PinballFever:Vid, how do you find certain posts? Divulging your search methods might make it easier for us to find the post we need.
Bruce
If there is no TOC, then I just Google it.
Pinside's search is getting better, but it still can't find stuff as well as Google.
Vid, what is you recommendation on cleaning this? I believe this is planking? I started a little with ME/Alcohol. But wanted your opinion before I did to much. I can get a lot of it clean that way, but not entirely. On a positive, I picked up a bottle of Hot Pink Fluorescent Createx yesterday, and the color is almost a perfect match, so if I have to repaint all the pink, I'll probably shoot it right out of the bottle.
Quoted from Insane:Vid, what is you recommendation on cleaning this? I believe this is planking? I started a little with ME/Alcohol. But wanted your opinion before I did to much. I can get a lot of it clean that way, but not entirely.
On a such a light color, there probably is not really a sure fire way to **clean** it.
On a dark color like black or cobalt, you sometimes can wipe paint into the cracks and make them less visible.
I suspect, you will have to mask it off and repaint.
Quoted from vid1900:On a such a light color, there probably is not really a sure fire way to **clean** if.
On a dark color like black or cobalt, you sometimes can wipe paint into the cracks and make them less visible.
I suspect, you will have to mask it off and repaint.
what kind of cleaning do i need to do before that, just good wipe with naptha? Or what? There are better pics in my thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dealers-choice-repair-restore#post-3821346
Quoted from Insane:what kind of cleaning do i need to do before that, just good wipe with naptha? Or what? There are better pics in my thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dealers-choice-repair-restore#post-3821346
Clean the whole playfield with Naphtha,
gently sand with 800g for some tooth,
sand dirt out of shooter lane (or repaint),
sand cupped inserts (you can sometimes touch up the black keylines at this point),
fill cupped inserts with 2PAC,
clean with Naphtha, spray thin **lock down** coat of 2PAC
Start repainting.
Vid, you say i need to spray a "lock down" coat of 2pac, is the purpose to just lock down the paint for where it is fragile? The paint on this isn't flaking or coming up anywhere. If it wasn't for the planking, it would be great. I think you are going to say its also so that you can easily wipe off or remove your new paint. But just want to make sure. I'm going to try to clean up as much as i can of the pf. Hopefully i can get away with painting the pink and toughing up the others a little. don't want to try to repaint the cards and the numbers. Also around some of the roll over holes, they are chewed up a little. i think i saw where i should bondo them, correct?
Vid, when you talk about wiping in the paint on, say, a black background, would you do that prior to a lockdown coat? Or would you do it after?
Hey Vid,
I finished my paint touch-up and did my first 2 coats of clear (spraymax 2k in can). After the first coat, an issue appeared over the white and light grey touched-up areas, see after sanding:
IMG_5852 (resized).JPGIMG_5855 (resized).JPGIMG_5854 (resized).JPG
Happened mostly at the edges but I could see some wrinkling in the white and blue as well.
Even in this picture, the white was done months apart using a different paint (1st time createx, 2nd time spectra-tex) You can notice the different tone white.IMG_5853 (resized).JPG
I bit the bullet and repainted the grey, will redo all the white next. Now, in order to avoid this happening again, what when wrong?
Too much clear on the initial coat over paint? Too much/thick paint?
Quoted from Plumonium:Hey Vid,
I finished my paint touch-up and did my first 2 coats of clear (spraymax 2k in can). After the first coat, an issue appeared over the white and light grey touched-up areas, see after sanding:Happened mostly at the edges but I could see some wrinkling in the white and blue as well.
Even in this picture, the white was done months apart using a different paint (1st time createx, 2nd time spectra-tex) You can notice the different tone white.
I bit the bullet and repainted the grey, will redo all the white next. Now, in order to avoid this happening again, what when wrong?
Too much clear on the initial coat over paint? Too much/thick paint?
Thanks!
I've never tried 2K in a can, so I can't say that I've seen this effect with regular 2PAC myself.
The fact that it is along the edges tells me it's some sort of reaction between the first coat of 2K and the final coat of 2K.
Next time, make sure the 2nd coat is super thin, so it's **heat** does not upset the 1st layer.
Did it happen instantly, or did it take 20 minutes?
Quoted from vid1900:Did it happen instantly, or did it take 20 minutes?
It happened rather quickly I would say, by the time I went for my second coat (12-15 min flash time) it was there.
Is it possible that clear sipped underneath the paint and lifted/cracked it. Like if too thick of paint absorbed some clear and wrinkled?
Like if the clear melted the paint and then shrunk it. I don't know really.
Just trying real hard to avoid that again.
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