(Topic ID: 158125)

La Porta's Firepower "Rejuvenation"

By La_Porta

8 years ago


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  • 160 posts
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  • Latest reply 2 years ago by La_Porta
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There are 160 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 4.
#1 8 years ago

After about 2 or so years, I finally have my Firepower pinball machine. Took me all that time to move, have another daughter, get through other parts of life before I started looking for one again. A really nice member of the forum sold me what I consider to be a very nice working condition machine for a very reasonable price. I was unbelievably excited because this is my first, and will be my only pinball machine.

Now I am in the process of deciding just how much I want to do with it, and how far I want to go towards rejuvenating it. I know that on the open market, this will not fetch a price worth what I may eventually put into it, but as people say it is a "labor of love."

The reason I called this topic a rejuvenation instead of a restoration is that I am not sure how far I want to take this. Do I clean it, level the inserts and touch it up, or do a whole play field restoration? I don't know if I can do the latter, but am not sure what I can do to at least make it originally playable (i.e. the inserts don't slightly deflect the direction of a free-moving ball).

The previous owner did many major board fixes already (replaced capacitors, replaced the 40-pin connector, made the multiple resistor modification, put in a new speaker). He also installed full LEDs throughout. So far, I have:

-Adjusted many roll over switches so that they function consistently.
-Replaced the 1-6 target "Firepower" stickers.
-Am in the process of rebuilding the ball shooter with new parts.
-Cleaned and adjusted the three ball switches and return ramp (which was filthy).

I am also awaiting new parts to replace the plastic flippers.

So, after all that, I'll post some pictures so you guys can see what I have, what condition it is in, and what suggestions you have.

Here is the play field from afar:
IMG_3305_(resized).jpgIMG_3305_(resized).jpg

Here is the underside. Very clean, I must say:
IMG_0788_(resized).jpgIMG_0788_(resized).jpg

Here are the replacement target stickers (with new foam backing):
IMG_0795_(resized).jpgIMG_0795_(resized).jpg

Here are a few shots of the paint wear on the field. It is overall not terrible, but you can see whereto paint is worn, cracked, scrapped away where inserts have cupped, etc:
IMG_3323_(resized).jpgIMG_3323_(resized).jpgIMG_3321_(resized).jpgIMG_3321_(resized).jpgIMG_3322_(resized).jpgIMG_3322_(resized).jpgIMG_3320_(resized).jpgIMG_3320_(resized).jpgIMG_3326_(resized).jpgIMG_3326_(resized).jpg

The upper portion of the play field is either worn or dirty, and I am leaning towards dirty:
IMG_3327_(resized).jpgIMG_3327_(resized).jpg

Finally, the area under the front panel was INCREDIBLY dirty. You can see from just a simple cleaning on the right how much dirt stood to be removed:
IMG_3333_(resized).jpgIMG_3333_(resized).jpg

That's all I have for now. Please, let me know what you'd do, what you think can be done, and what you'd suggest. Thank you!

#2 8 years ago

Being your only machine go full throttle. (but I predict that when it is done, you will be on the hunt for the next pin. Honest)

#3 8 years ago

Well, space limitations and not wanting to bother the wife are powerful motivators otherwise!

#4 8 years ago

I've posted about my machine in a few different threads. I only have a single game and if I even considered getting another one, I think my wife would have my head. Given that, I decided to slowly improve mine. The biggest decision is the playfield. Mine was in decent shape and I considered replacing all of the inserts with new ones and do some paint touch ups and a clear coat. That's a lot of work for a rank amateur so my only other option was to find a CPR playfield. I lucked out and got my hands on one and did the swap and have zero regrets. The game plays fantastic and I can tweak everything else from this point forward.

I've had to do some wiring and component fixes but nothing major. Everyone on the forum has extremely helpful when I've run into issues. I would love to repaint the cabinet but that's a huge undertaking so I'm living with it for now. I replaced all of my bulbs with LEDs and got a new backglass from Mayfair so visually the game looks great.

It will come down to how much money you want to invest. If this is going to be a keeper machine, after a while you forget about what you've spent or you at least try not to remember!

#5 7 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

It will come down to how much money you want to invest. If this is going to be a keeper machine, after a while you forget about what you've spent or you at least try not to remember!

That's a great point, just depends on what you want to invest. Currently, not too much. The prices that people want for used stuff varies incredibly, and I can wait it out (hence why it took me two years to find my machine).

Last night, I rebuilt the shooter with Marco parts, which worked like a dream. The shooter had been lubed with some nasty crud by someone, so I got rid of all that, and actually used Novus 3 and 2 to really get the shooter lever nice and smooth. New springs at both ends and a new tip, and now the thing fires the ball up the ramp like a bolt of lightning!

I also cleaned a majority of the play field with naphtha and a soft rag, as well as polishing the balls with, again, Novus 3-2-1. Man, what a difference! I haven't even waxed the play field yet, and just those two things make the game a different game! The ball is much speedier, and more random. I can finally shoot the ball to the top of the field predictably...before I couldn't get it all the way up the left ramp and was wondering why! Much more like the Firepower that I know now.

#6 7 years ago

So I do have a bit of an issue with the left flipper. It works just fine, and hits hard. However, if I hold the button down to cradle the ball, often it will get stuck in that position for a second or two before returning to neutral. Perhaps the plunger is momentarily getting jammed?

#7 7 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

However, if I hold the button down to cradle the ball, often it will get stuck in that position for a second or two before returning to neutral. Perhaps the plunger is momentarily getting jammed?

I literally just troubleshot almost this exact issue on my own FP. Check out my post in Vid's flipper thread, and the responses following.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/28#post-3119325

By the way, that entire thread is excellent reading for general understanding and troubleshooting knowledge.... check it from the beginning if you haven't already done so!

#8 7 years ago

Nice post...the issue I then have is this is the first time I am looking at these thugs closely, and am unsure what each part is that you are talking about in the images. I have no idea how to check mine for this, either. Would a flipper rebuild kit help solve this? Where exactly is the worn out piece?

#9 7 years ago

Another potential issue: while I was playing tonight, I had a second occurrence of something odd. When I locked one ball, the machine then proceeded to release both remaining balls, leading to an inadvertent multi ball. Perhaps something is loose within the mechanism, or is this something erroneously occurring with the game processing? Anyone have a similar issue?

1 week later
#10 7 years ago

So, a few issues and a couple of fixes later, I have ow decided to go full Vid-style and get an extra play field from someone local. This way, I can still play and work on the restoration at the same time!

1 week later
#11 7 years ago

I'll be keeping an eye on your playfield restoration process...sounds interesting.

Has your FP had the fuses added to the bridge rectifiers yet?

#12 7 years ago

Board has had a few mods done so far: I haven't gone into them as of yet, can you send me a pic of what it looks like...I'll let you know! I'd like to get into the boards at some point, I am just not there yet.

I'll also get some pictures of the board that I just picked up a few days ago for restoration. Hopefully I can get them tomorrow.

#13 7 years ago

The bridge rectifier fuses are likely mounted to the backbox if they are there. If not, get them there quickly as it is a fire risk. Vids system 3-7 thread has details on how to do it.

#14 7 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Board has had a few mods done so far: I haven't gone into them as of yet, can you send me a pic of what it looks like...I'll let you know! I'd like to get into the boards at some point, I am just not there yet.
I'll also get some pictures of the board that I just picked up a few days ago for restoration. Hopefully I can get them tomorrow.

This is one of the very first things I did to my FP...don't wait on this one.

Start reading at Post 59 in this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2

#15 7 years ago

I'll check first thing in the morning. I have a fair amount of confidence that the previous owner did this, but I will double check. Thank you for the heads up!

#16 7 years ago

You know what? It hasn't been done...there were other fuses that I thought they were. I'll get to work on this, thanks for the heads up.

#17 7 years ago

As of last night, I cleaned and waxed the play field, and...WOW! The different of waxing is insane. I had no idea how much of a difference it would make. With this done, and the game very playable, I am now going to move to working on the boards, as well as getting ready to start the restoration of the extra play field.

#18 7 years ago

Haha oh boy it can really become a time-suck, careful how far you go! I started with getting a fp going, then needed a pin I could play while working on it(knowing wife would not be too thrilled about this) and that quickly spiraled while the fp amateur restore took longer and longer to complete. All documented on a pinside thread if you want to browse.. Maybe some helpful things to do or not do there. In particular, the insert sticker decals do not lay flush on the pf and it's kind of hard to smooth that using varathane layers for clear so a lot of hard work leveling inserts can quickly be undone :/. Good luck and have fun! And good luck with staying at one pin

#19 7 years ago

You know what they say: slow and steady wins the race! Thankfully, I have the extra play field that I'm working on =, so I should only be out of commission for as long as it takes to swap the parts from one to the other (likely, a few days, I figure). I'll certainly check out your thread if you have a link.

#20 7 years ago

I got all the parts for the rectifier fusing project, so I'll get to that later today. Looking at the boards, a lot of Vid's other bulletproofing steps were already undertaken, as well as the 40-pin connector replacement, so I'm thankful for that.

Now that I have my spare play field, I will get some pictures of it and it's condition up, hopefully today. I am in the process of moving all of my painting tools and equipment to the basement, so it may take a while to get to this.

#21 7 years ago

Got the pics of the new play field. The first is of that area in the foreground that it appears gets scrapped by taking off the housing over the ball return mechanism. Do others have issues with damage in this area?

IMG_3345_(resized).jpgIMG_3345_(resized).jpg

The next two show detail of the scoring inserts, as well as full detail of the planet. I am encouraged because there is next to no wear around the inserts, and the planet is intact. This is probably the most mind-boggling area to fix, in my opinion.

IMG_3347_(resized).jpgIMG_3347_(resized).jpg
IMG_3348_(resized).jpgIMG_3348_(resized).jpg

The next is of the upper field. Not much wear here, either. One thing to note is, in another thread, someone mentioned stamping errors on the original pop bumper caps. Vid theorized that somewhere along the line, the die may have been damaged and not replaced. All 4 of them on my current play field have the defect, the three surviving on this replacement do not. This replacement also has a pretty early date stamped on it, so perhaps it was an earlier run:

IMG_3351_(resized).jpgIMG_3351_(resized).jpg
IMG_3352_(resized).jpgIMG_3352_(resized).jpg

Lastly, here is a shot of the machine as it currently is. For those who commented, it is now out of the reach of any sunlight!

IMG_3353_(resized).jpgIMG_3353_(resized).jpg

7 months later
#22 7 years ago

Well...it has certainly been quite a while, but I have finally found time to start getting back into my machine. Over the past few months, I installed Vid's bridge rectifier fuses, and have replaced all the caps on my sound board. I currently have the NVRAM and solenoid fuse bridge on order...they should be here today. I am about to replace the 5V resistor/diodes for the gas displays as well. Breakdown of the play field will likely happen within the next month or two as well. If I have any extra parts that I am not in need of, I will let you guys know. PM me if you might need a part that I might have.

#23 7 years ago

Save up some money and buy xPin displays. They look great, use much less power and you can pull one of the fuses from the board as you no longer need the circuit. They are $200 USD from their site and you might be able to get $50-$75 for all of your old ones if they are working.

2 weeks later
#24 7 years ago

Well, I managed to do all of the modifications that I wanted over the past two weeks: All sound board caps changed (12,000 mf labeled with date), NVRAM installed, battery material removed, high voltage components replaced. I have to say, the Great Plains kit was extremely helpful. The only thing I didn't do is replace the transistors, as the ones there are just fine. The score displays are just slightly dimmer, but the life savings is what's most important to me. I love the original look of the gas displays. In fact, if anyone has some that still work, but want to get rid of, I'd pay for them to be spares.

I also discarded some old, crusty fuses (which you can see in one pic). Every-single-one was way above rating (i.e. a 20 amp in the 10 amp spot), a fire disaster waiting to happen. I labeled each slot and replaced them with new, fresh ones. I'd never seen a fuse with a resistor inside of it...anyone else see that?

I also got the solenoid fuse board do-it-yourself kit from barakandl : it was fun and easy to assemble, and I'd recommend it to anyone.

Next: going to start disassembling the spare play field, stripping, and on to restoration....

NVRAM installed (red board)NVRAM installed (red board)Sound Board re-cappedSound Board re-cappedHigh voltage components replacedHigh voltage components replaced6A4 diodes placed6A4 diodes placedOld, crusty, wrong amperage fusesOld, crusty, wrong amperage fusesBrand new, correct fusesBrand new, correct fusesOther fuses labeledOther fuses labeledSolenoid fuse board installedSolenoid fuse board installed

IMG_3475 (resized).JPGIMG_3475 (resized).JPG

#25 7 years ago

Looks pretty good so far!

#26 7 years ago

Following along! Embarking on a full resto up here in the frozen north. Great winter project. Here are my boards in all their glory. Still have a few things to address but have done most of Vids recommendations and Andrews solenoid fuses. This one is a no brainer, Q12 burned clear through the board at some time...

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#27 7 years ago

Excellent! How's your cabinet and play field? I'd love to see the rest of the machine. The boards look good...it appears you have done pretty much everything I have as well. I also replaced each and every electrolytic cap that I could on the sound board, as well as the lone ones on the driver and CPU board. What else do you have in store?

#28 7 years ago
Quoted from ApplePie:

Embarking on a full resto up here in the frozen north.

Come one, it's not that frozen! At least not near Toronto! Maybe in Calgary...

Quoted from La_Porta:

The boards look good.

You guys are putting me to shame! I've done some odds and ends to my boards but I haven't gone nearly as far as you. My attitude is that if it ain't broke, don't mess with it. I thought about redoing all of my connectors but I've had almost zero issues. I did replace some caps, transistors, resistors, etc. based on Vid's suggestions but nothing like you guys!

ApplePie are you documenting your work in a thread? I love following this stuff!

#29 7 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

My attitude is that if it ain't broke, don't mess with it.

Nothing wrong with that approach! My large sound board cap was literally bursting with goop, so it was time to go. That was the push I needed to just replace them all and make sure they were good for 15 years or so. The NVRAM I just had to do, because the battery thing is just a pain.I am fortunate that the person who owned it before me had already replaced the 40-pin connector.

I'd love to see other's threads as well, if there's links to them.

#30 7 years ago

I hear you about if it ain't broke don't fix it but insulation displacement connectors are one of my "got to go" things. It only takes one time of chasing gremlins and you realize it's not worth the aggravation. Besides your time you can change all the connectors for $20~$25.

#31 7 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

insulation displacement connectors

Is that what those things are called, the ones where you push the wire into the top and it makes a connection by slicing the insulation?

new_connector (resized).jpgnew_connector (resized).jpg

I replaced one already. Every so often I'd lose some switches or targets and I'd go wiggle those wires. Suddenly the non-working ones would work and others wouldn't. Yeah, it would probably be good to replace them all. You guys are inspiring me but it's hard when the game is working perfectly. It's more fun to play than to tinker!

#32 7 years ago

I haven't started a resto thread yet as I'm just getting into this now and want to make a little more progress before writing anything up. I am taking some pictures along the way so will have something reasonably decent to post as I progress. I'll post a note for you guys when I set something up

Travish, congrats on the CPR playfield! I was watching that one too! And yes, IDC connectors are a pain in the ass. I had several cooked ones on my Sorcerer when I got it, all GI related pins. I haven't really thought about replacing them on Firepower. Did you go the Molex route? Be thankful that these are at lease 0.156" pins. The 0.100" pins on the older Bally and Stern are enough to drive a guy to drink

#33 7 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Excellent! How's your cabinet and play field? I'd love to see the rest of the machine. The boards look good...it appears you have done pretty much everything I have as well. I also replaced each and every electrolytic cap that I could on the sound board, as well as the lone ones on the driver and CPU board. What else do you have in store?

Cab and head are pretty rough. I will sand and repaint them for sure. Just a matter of time! Playfield, well that's another story altogether. Will post something on that in a week or two

One thing that drives me bananas is the transformer in the backbox. Not only is it so darn full in the backbox already, it's bloody heavy! I'm going to relocate mine to the cabinet at the back. Molex connectors and some extra wire. Also going to fuse the rectifiers at the same time since it was never done on this pin. Something about a burning pin in the basement doesn't really appeal to me that much...

#34 7 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

Come one, it's not that frozen! At least not near Toronto! Maybe in Calgary...

You guys are putting me to shame! I've done some odds and ends to my boards but I haven't gone nearly as far as you. My attitude is that if it ain't broke, don't mess with it. I thought about redoing all of my connectors but I've had almost zero issues. I did replace some caps, transistors, resistors, etc. based on Vid's suggestions but nothing like you guys!
ApplePie are you documenting your work in a thread? I love following this stuff!

A chilly minus 16 C here today

Although it makes for a good "sitting around on your ass with the soldering gun and a table full of electronics" kind of day! I've followed Vid's guides and have incorporated all the fixed that i could find parts for. Just a couple of tricky to locate caps and connectors then the boards should be done. And a few labels as well (can't be the only one who doesn't label the fuses).

#35 7 years ago

The rectifier mod was the easies thing that I've done. For the protection it gives, there's no reason not to. What's the issue with your transformer?

#36 7 years ago

I love the fuse and connector labeling!! My Labeler died yesterday but I may copy you on the fuses and possibly connectors.. that's pretty sweet! Where do you get those zip tie labels?

For anyone interested, I may have posted this s long time ago on here but just in case, I did a serious overhaul of a fp well documented on here. I documented after it was done but much more fun to do it real time.. anyway, it may be of interest, particularity if you are facing a lot of paint gone on the planet.. I did a lot of repainting.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fire-power-refurbrestore-back-from-the-dead

#37 7 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

Is that what those things are called, the ones where you push the wire into the top and it makes a connection by slicing the insulation

Yes that's what they are called. Quick and easy for manufacturing but not so good for long term reliability. Molex connectors are cheap and with new turficon pins they will outlast me. I change every one first off. Power supply too.

IMG_2606 (resized).JPGIMG_2606 (resized).JPG

#38 7 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

The rectifier mod was the easies thing that I've done. For the protection it gives, there's no reason not to. What's the issue with your transformer?

No real issues with the transformer. Since I've got the whole thing apart I would rather have it in the cabinet than jamming up the backbox. Did it on an earlier Stern and it is simple when everything is apart.

#39 7 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Yes that's what they are called. Quick and easy for manufacturing but not so good for long term reliability. Molex connectors are cheap and with new turficon pins they will outlast me. I change every one first off. Power supply too.

Good idea. A nice big order to Great Plains Electronics and an evening in front of a hockey game on the tube and that should look after that! Looks like my list keeps growing though!

#40 7 years ago

Mbecker
I saw that thread and thought the playfield painting turned out really good. You really had to want it to go through all that.

#41 7 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

For anyone interested, I may have posted this s long time ago on here but just in case, I did a serious overhaul of a fp well documented on here.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fire-power-refurbrestore-back-from-the-dead

The only way to say it is this: that effort is simply bad-ass! The amount of painting you had to do is incredible, I'll likely have to do nowhere near that amount. I don't plan on touching up the cabinet, except for re-buffing the metal. I'd love to see how you did that...I have zero experience with buffing metal. The cabinet is pretty good, and I like having the original outside paint. I am fairly lucky in that I have an extra play field to restore. I can play the game still while I work, and I also always have a reference for it while I work. There won't be a year between changing the wire harness, either!

Your work is incredible, especially without prior experience. I hope mine turns out half as nice.

#42 7 years ago

I got two varieties: one that is a bit taller and thinner, and one that is wider and shorter in height...depending on what the need was. Incredibly cheap, come in bags of 100 off of Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017TVXB5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L13A7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

#43 7 years ago

Firepower and Black Knight! My first true love solid state machines. Love this thread, as I too, love my Firepower.

#44 7 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

I change every one first off.

@travish, yeah, but I've seen some of your work. OCD comes to mind but in a good way! You have an eye for detail and you do a fantastic job.

@la_porta, sorry, didn't mean to sidetrack your thread!

#45 7 years ago
Quoted from PonchoPinDude:

Firepower and Black Knight! My first true love solid state machines. Love this thread, as I too, love my Firepower.

Might as well throw in a Gorgar too. I am on a early ss Williams kick lately.

IMG_2610 (resized).JPGIMG_2610 (resized).JPG

#46 7 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Mbecker
I saw that thread and thought the playfield painting turned out really good. You really had to want it to go through all that.

Thanks Travish -- it was really one of those rabbit holes where you get sucked in, glad it's long over ha!

La_Porta -- thanks! And thanks for the info on the tags -- going to pick some up soon. The buffing was mostly done on the 3/4hp harbor freight wheel, with black red and grey rouge as I recall (each on its own wheel) then cleaned off with bleach-white. I did this in our rental basement -- I guess you're supposed to do it outside though and maybe wear a mask., whoops! It Does kinda get everywhere. Good luck with your firepower, I'm following

#47 7 years ago

It's definitely not hijacking....good to have the community tossing around ideas. I'm getting inspired by you guys, as well.

#48 7 years ago

La_Porta The stuff below is to give you some ideas as well...

Mbecker I had looked at your thread a while ago, nice job! I did some similar things to mine - lit ball locks (clear with green lights), lit flipper buttons (red on the left, blue on the right), lit starter button, clear coloured bumper caps, post flashers that light up when you hit the pop bumpers and the slings. I mixed up my caps so I have 2 blue and 2 red and put them diagonally across from each other. I put Cointaker afterburner LEDs in mine. My entire machine has LEDs and I haven't had any issues. Also, based on Vid's recommendations, completely replaced the flipper mechs. Game play is so much better!

You can still get a new backglass. I got one from Mayfair (http://mayfairamusement.com/). It's a bit of an odd site, but Steve is easy to deal with. Not cheap, like $300, you just have to decide if it's worth it given what you've put into your game.

If you want new/different rule cards check here - https://flic.kr/s/aHskTVD8Zr. I'm not taking credit for the originals but I modified them a bit so the rules made more sense. You also have a 3 or 5 ball card depending on your settings.

Finally, where did you get those hinges for the playfield? I'm not sure I would want to remove the existing rails completely as they provide additional support for the playfield but that would make life a lot easier!

Travish I noticed you replaced your speaker. Does it make a big difference? What did you end up putting in there?

Here's a video of mine with the changes -

Here's a video of the post flashers -

#49 7 years ago

I do have all of the original cards, so if you are looking for a scanned original to print, I can get that for you as well.

#50 7 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

I do have all of the original cards, so if you are looking for a scanned original to print, I can get that for you as well.

I have all the originals as well, just wanted something different. On our local pinball forum (pinballrevolution.com), there was a thread detailing how you can send a card to Steve Ritchie along with a small donation and he would sign it for you and send it back. I may do that with the left card. I may just put a white square in the middle of the card with the black and yellow graphics and send it off to him.

That would be pretty cool to me. Apparently quite a few of the original game designers are willing to do stuff like this.

There might be something here on Pinside as well but here's the thread if you're interested - http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/custom-signed-apron-cards.814/

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