Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

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1

#4551 6 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,199 18

Quoted from KornFreak28:
Great tip! How about for the staple shaped ball guides? My understanding is that those must be pounded in with a hammer. Do I drill out those holes? If so, all the way or about 1/4"? Thanks!

Slightly open up the entryway of the hole BY HAND with a brand new, slightly larger drill bit.

That way when you tap in the guide, you are not hitting the clear.

Tap the guides until the center of the ball aligns with the center of the guide.

If guide is loose, put one drop of white glue in the hole.

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#4552 6 years ago

JRL

An order of operations question here: Once I do a lock-down coat of clear, do you sand that and lay down the createx, or the createx will lay down right over it? After the createx is down, do you sand it and the rest of the play field before putting down the next clear layer? After that, do you recommend putting a thin layer of clear over all paint before putting on decals? I'd figure doing that would make sense since decals do best offer a gloss surface.

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#4553 6 years ago

OP

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vid1900

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Sana'a

12y 164K 40,199 18

Quoted from La_Porta:
Once I do a lock-down coat of clear, do you sand that and lay down the createx, or the createx will lay down right over it?

Yes, sand the clear for tooth.

Quoted from La_Porta:
After the createx is down, do you sand it and the rest of the play field before putting down the next clear layer?

Oftentimes I knock the edge off the Createx, especially if it was frisketed.

Quoted from La_Porta:
After that, do you recommend putting a thin layer of clear over all paint before putting on decals?

That is best practice.

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#4554 6 years ago

111

KornFreak28

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OP
Quoted from vid1900:
Pre drill your pop nail holes, because if you hit the head of those nails into the clearcoat, it might chip.
You can grind out the bevel with a Dremel and a fine stone, or HAND TWIST a sharp, new drill bit to cut through the bevel.

By bevel, Do you mean the countersunk area (top of the playfield) for the pop bumper screws?

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1

#4555 6 years ago

OP

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vid1900

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Sana'a

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Quoted from KornFreak28:
By bevel, Do you mean the countersunk area (top of the playfield) for the pop bumper screws?

yes

0

#4556 6 years ago

GUS

Plumonium

Pinside member

Montreal, QC

9y 60,550 1,496 5 7

Hi Vid/All, what do you think of this playfield? Should I be worried about the insert wear? Should I stay away from this potential buy as there are way better IJ playfield out there? or not?

IMG_1489.JPG

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#4557 6 years ago

GUS

Plumonium

Pinside member

Montreal, QC

9y 60,550 1,496 5 7

Hey Vid, is it necessary to wet sand before polishing. I find wet sanding makes a mess and rather prefer dry sanding if I can. Will I acheive the same result or past a certain grit, dry sanding just won't work? Thanks!

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#4558 6 years ago

OP

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vid1900

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Sana'a

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Quoted from Plumonium:
Hi Vid/All, what do you think of this playfield? Should I be worried about the insert wear? Should I stay away from this potential buy as there are way better IJ playfield out there? or not?

Like all 90s Williams games, the inserts here are starting to loose their hold on the clear.

You can restore it, or wax and then Mylar over the ghosting inserts.

If the insert edges are raised, then make sure you level them, and then glue them with epoxy from behind.

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#4559 6 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

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Sana'a

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Quoted from Plumonium:
Hey Vid, is it necessary to wet sand before polishing. I find wet sanding makes a mess and rather prefer dry sanding if I can. Will I acheive the same result or past a certain grit, dry sanding just won't work? Thanks!

Dry sanding on fine grits just clogs up the paper in a few passes.

Wet sanding allows the dust to be carried away by the slurry, rather than clog the abrasive.

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#4560 6 years ago

RRS

No_Skill

Pinside member

Bismarck, ND

8y 36,050 185 2

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
Dry sanding on fine grits just clogs up the paper in a few passes.
Wet sanding allows the dust to be carried away by the slurry, rather than clog the abrasive.

When I wet sanded, the wood swelled around some of the holes causing me to burn through the clear and paint before I noticed what was happening. Any tips to avoid that?

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#4561 6 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

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Sana'a

12y 164K 40,199 18

Quoted from No_Skill:
When I wet sanded, the wood swelled around some of the holes causing me to burn through the clear and paint before I noticed what was happening. Any tips to avoid that?

Take your left over clear that you mixed and slather the insides of the holes if you are having this problem.

Usually by the time you are in the wet sanding stages (1000 grit and up), you are only taking a tiny amount of material off, and are done in a minute or two.

Not usually long enough for anything to get waterlogged

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#4562 6 years ago

WOT

Atari_Daze

Spd

Houston, TX

7y 141K 10,052 7

Hello Vid, a couple of follow up questions regarding the SBM I'm working on...

When re-creating the halftones, can one achieve white dots on a water slide decal?
What about the halftone sizes vary on the originals, can PS re-create this? I've been messing around trying to achieve this for a bit now. - am I being to anal?

Trying to stencil some of the fine details on certain features may push the limit of using something like a Cameo, could these type of detailed items be reproduced on the WSD? See the "Spots Letter" example - the larger color sections like most of the white and blue could be pretty easily done with stenciling, but the thin areas might be down right impossible... and to follow that up, as far as using a laser printer to print the WSDs, what do you suggest as minimum dpi value?

Many thanks!

pasted_image (resized).png

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#4563 6 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

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Sana'a

12y 164K 40,199 18

Quoted from Atari_Daze:
When re-creating the halftones, can one achieve white dots on a water slide decal?

You can use an Alps printer than prints white ink, or you can use white waterslide decals.

On the original, the white is the base color and the dots where screened on top.

So you would paint the solid white field, then put the halftone dots of color waterslide on top to.

Quoted from Atari_Daze:
What about the halftone sizes vary on the originals, can PS re-create this? I've been messing around trying to achieve this for a bit now. - am I being to anal?

You can change the size of the dots a number of ways. You can even scale a scan of the dots.

Quoted from Atari_Daze:
Trying to stencil some of the fine details on certain features may push the limit of using something like a Cameo, could these type of detailed items be reproduced on the WSD? See the "Spots Letter" example - the larger color sections like most of the white and blue could be pretty easily done with stenciling, but the thin areas might be down right impossible... and to follow that up, as far as using a laser printer to print the WSDs, what do you suggest as minimum dpi value?

Color laser can do that no problem.

The original screens were nothing high-rez, certainly under 300

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#4564 6 years ago

ROB

galaga50

Pinside member

Canberra

8y 39,300 176 6

Does anyone know what these brown spots are on my High Hand pf? Anyone seen this before?

I am going to restore the pf and am wondering if this happened at the factory.

Any ideas how to remove? Sand then repaint?

Photo 12-7-17, 22 37 36 (resized).jpg

Photo 12-7-17, 22 38 26 (1) (resized).jpg

Photo 12-7-17, 22 36 06 (resized).jpg

Photo 12-7-17, 22 38 02 (1) (resized).jpg

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#4565 6 years ago

111

KornFreak28

Pinside+ Frequent

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OP
Quoted from vid1900:
You can use an Alps printer than prints white ink, or you can use white waterslide decals.
On the original, the white is the base color and the dots where screened on top.
So you would paint the solid white field, then put the halftone dots of color waterslide on top to.

You can change the size of the dots a number of ways. You can even scale a scan of the dots.

Color laser can do that no problem.
The original screens were nothing high-rez, certainly under 300

Is there anything you don't know?

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3

#4566 6 years ago

JRL

La_Porta

Pinside member

9y 51,650 781 1

I'd have to guess that those are probably mold spots. That's what they look like to me.

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1

#4567 6 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

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Sana'a

12y 164K 40,199 18

Quoted from KornFreak28:
Is there anything you don't know?

"Lots of things, just ask my wife" (straightens tie)

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#4568 6 years ago

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vid1900

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Sana'a

12y 164K 40,199 18

Quoted from galaga50:
Does anyone know what these brown spots are on my High Hand pf? Anyone seen this before?

Looks like mold. Sometimes it eats the finish and actually leaves tiny divots.

Strip the playfield assemblies completely, OUTDOORS.

Don't bring any of those spores into the house.

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#4569 6 years ago

GUS

Plumonium

Pinside member

Montreal, QC

9y 60,550 1,496 5 7

Vid, is there any problem starting the final sanding (before polish) with 400 grit at some high spot area? Then move up 600-800-etc.

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#4570 6 years ago

TOM

tdiddy

Diddy's Pinball Mods

Newbury, OH

11y 111K 2,958 19 19

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
Oftentimes I knock the edge off the Createx, especially if it was frisketed.

Vid ,

What grit do you use to knock it down?

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#4571 6 years ago

OP

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vid1900

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Sana'a

12y 164K 40,199 18

Quoted from Plumonium:
Vid, is there any problem starting the final sanding (before polish) with 400 grit at some high spot area? Then move up 600-800-etc.

Nope, just be careful.

You have to get all those 400 scratches out with 600, before you take the 600 out with the 800......you get the idea

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1

#4572 6 years ago

OP

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vid1900

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Sana'a

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Quoted from tdiddy:
Vid ,
What grit do you use to knock it down?

800 is a good first choice.

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#4573 6 years ago

GUS

Plumonium

Pinside member

Montreal, QC

9y 60,550 1,496 5 7

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
Nope, just be careful.
You have to get all those 400 scratches out with 600, before you take the 600 out with the 800......you get the idea

Gotcha. I filled some low spots with an eyedropper before doing my final wet coat and I feel I would get over those bumps quicker with coarser grit.

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7

#4574 6 years ago

RRS

No_Skill

Pinside member

Bismarck, ND

8y 36,050 185 2

I just wanted to say thanks for all the great advice in this thread. I've wanted to try my hand at a restoration for a while and I just finished up my first project (Old Chicago). I'm really happy with the results and I've learned a lot through the process. Of course, I can see every little flaw I made, but I think it turned out pretty good for my first effort.

IMG_2633 (resized).JPG

IMG_2634 (resized).JPG

IMG_2627 (resized).JPG

Old Chicago Before (resized).jpg

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#4575 6 years ago

JRL

La_Porta

Pinside member

9y 51,650 781 1

Last clear question, I hope!

After laying down the decals, I know you suggested a mist coat before the final coat or two. Once the decals are down, can you spray right over the last layer and the decals without prep? It would seem that you would want tooth for those last layers, but how could one sand if decals were just applied? Would t make sense to me.

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1

#4576 6 years ago

JRL

La_Porta

Pinside member

9y 51,650 781 1

Quoted from No_Skill:
I just wanted to say thanks for all the great advice in this thread. I've wanted to try my hand at a restoration for a while and I just finished up my first project (Old Chicago). I'm really happy with the results and I've learned a lot through the process. Of course, I can see every little flaw I made, but I think it turned out pretty good for my first effort.

Microscopic flaws only you can see or not... it's a hell of an improvement over where you started!

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1

#4577 6 years ago

RRS

No_Skill

Pinside member

Bismarck, ND

8y 36,050 185 2

Quoted from La_Porta:
Microscopic flaws only you can see or not... it's a hell of an improvement over where you started!

Thanks! I had a blast going through the process. This type of thing is right up my alley. The Old Chicago was a pretty simple first project in reality. Lots of big areas of a single color and the cars were the only really detailed area.

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#4578 6 years ago

JRL

La_Porta

Pinside member

9y 51,650 781 1

Can't wait to see it back in the machine. My Firepower project feels like it will take forever.

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#4579 6 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,199 18

Quoted from La_Porta:
Last clear question, I hope!
After laying down the decals, I know you suggested a mist coat before the final coat or two. Once the decals are down, can you spray right over the last layer and the decals without prep? It would seem that you would want tooth for those last layers, but how could one sand if decals were just applied? Would t make sense to me.

Don't sand the decals, they already have a matte finish.

Just sand any glossy surfaces around them.

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#4580 6 years ago

ROB

galaga50

Pinside member

Canberra

8y 39,300 176 6

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
Looks like mold. Sometimes it eats the finish and actually leaves tiny divots.
Strip the playfield assemblies completely, OUTDOORS.
Don't bring any of those spores into the house.

Once I strip the pf, what do you suggest how I go about restoring it?
What should I do before sanding and then laying down a base clear coat layer?

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#4581 6 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

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Sana'a

12y 164K 40,199 18

Quoted from galaga50:
Once I strip the pf, what do you suggest how I go about restoring it?
What should I do before sanding and then laying down a base clear coat layer?

You don't want to seal the mold under the clear, so scrub it off first.

Use a nylon or fine brass brush to get down into the pits (if any).

That playfield looks too porous for bleach/water, so use Naphtha as your cleaner.

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#4582 6 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Computer Extreme

9y 134K 15,505 31

I have a couple nickle sized wear areas on a comet under the jump ramp.
Im going to shop out the game but am not doing a restore.

What color paint can I get right out of the can or spray that would be a 75% match?
Im color blind so the nuances of color matching are beyond my ability.

Is there a krylon color thats pretty good?

I would just like to smear a tiny bit of paint and mylar over it as a patch for now.

Sadly the backglass is so faded that its mostly just gray and silver. This game might not be restored for quite awhile if ever.
But over-all the game though routed for most of its life it in pretty good shape and not hacked up or abused.

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#4583 6 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

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Sana'a

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If the game is faded, someone would have to color match in person as there would be no way of guessing how much fade it has.

You can take the playfield out with about 3 minutes of work, and just take it to any hardware store.

They will match you the paint for $15 for a quart with their color computer scanner.

I do that all the time when repainting cabinets.

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#4584 6 years ago

JRL

La_Porta

Pinside member

9y 51,650 781 1

Vid, the number paint on my inserts isn't that bad, but I am planning on decaling over it anyway. If I sand the inserts for painting, will this ruin the graphics underneath if too zealous? Or do you suggest just sanding clean all inserts and re-decaling everything?

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#4585 6 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

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Sana'a

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Quoted from La_Porta:
Vid, the number paint on my inserts isn't that bad, but I am planning on decaling over it anyway. If I sand the inserts for painting, will this ruin the graphics underneath if too zealous? Or do you suggest just sanding clean all inserts and re-decaling everything?

Don't sand the clean the inserts unless they are destroyed .

I often touch up the numbers, and re-decal the keylines so they are crisp all the way around if worn.

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#4586 6 years ago

JOE

alexmogil

Pinside+ Frequent

Parkersburg, WV

7y 79,550 1,026 17 29

I posted these shots in the Firepower thread and I have been mulling over what to do next. I have a pretty nice Firepower that needs some work. I'd like to take some time restoring it since it seems like a fun way to really get to know this machine well. I paid a very good price for it so if I melt the entire thing into a glob I won't be out a lot of money. I'll be sad, but I won't be broke.

Anyway the previous owner must have taken it to a servicer who added a mylar to the lower playfield but left the upper playfield unmylared. The paint is starting to wear in some spots on the upper side, and unfortunately paint was starting to wear on the lower side before the mylar (or whatever it is, really) was placed down.

First, here's a shot of where the mylar ends compared to the rest of the playfield so you can see the difference.

20170715_171428500_iOS (resized).jpg

The first shots will show some mylar shots - first notice how the sling mylars were removed and it lifted the paint, and they went ahead and slapped a mylar overtop of it without repair. At least I think this is mylar. It's really slick and shiny.

20170715_171444298_iOS (resized).jpg

Next, notice again the mylar edge along with lifting of the mylar around the green arrow - not terrible under gameplay but noticeable when nosing on the playfield. It's uneven, and it appears the inserts have come up enough to lift the mylar.

20170715_171516805_iOS (resized).jpg

Here's some shots of the black and red playfield under the mylar without paint repair along with some lifting around the inserts:

20170715_171602685_iOS (resized).jpg

20170715_171722944_iOS (resized).jpg

Aaaand here is a mylar shot where there was some dirt on the playfield so there's a nice bubble - very near the 3rd blue insert.

20170715_171709469_iOS (resized).jpg

Here are some shots of the unmylared area between the bottom two pops where the paint has started to come up.

20170715_171544244_iOS (resized).jpg
20170715_171757665_iOS (resized).jpg

Same with the right lock:

20170715_171728585_iOS (resized).jpg

The I rollover could use some help:

20170715_171617792_iOS (resized).jpg

Top lock has a bit of paint missing - seems easy enough to fix.

20170715_171611142_iOS (resized).jpg

I have zero experience with playfield restoration. None. I brought a Hurricane back to life that was absolutely wrecked, but I bought it because I knew that the diamondplate would at least ensure I had a good playfield - in truth I got lucky. No wear on the Hurricane playfield at all.

So I guess I'm worried about removing the mylar to work on the lower playfield - I think I would have to work on those inserts, but in doing so I risk ripping all of the paint off. I have zero artistic ability and here's a game with an intricate pattern inside this this giant space station. I can see myself lifting a corner of this mylar and just ruining this thing.

On the other hand here's the opportunity for some experience.

I know the choice is ultimately mine but I could really use some practical advice. I *want* to work on this thing and come out with a neat game, some experience, and a good story. I just don't know if what I am wanting to do is possible with the state that it's in. If it's the right thing to do for this to be a "player's condition game" then I would take that to heart - and take any advice to repair what I can.

I'd be super thankful for opinions!

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#4587 6 years ago

???

vec-tor

Pinside+ Addict

Unknown

7y 91,150 4,599 83

Note: original half circles were removed from the sling-shot kickers. Then, the mylar either
3mm or 7mm was applied; most likely from Wico.
It was the only way to go back in the 1980's, it was very cost effective.
I would be cautious with the removal of the mylar because it will pull up what is remaining of the art work.

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6

#4588 6 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,199 18

Quoted from alexmogil:
Next, notice again the mylar edge along with lifting of the mylar around the green arrow - not terrible under gameplay but noticeable when nosing on the playfield. It's uneven, and it appears the inserts have come up enough to lift the mylar.

Yep, those inserts should have been leveled and glued in place BEFORE Mylaring.

Quoted from alexmogil:
So I guess I'm worried about removing the mylar to work on the lower playfield - I think I would have to work on those inserts, but in doing so I risk ripping all of the paint off. I have zero artistic ability and here's a game with an intricate pattern inside this this giant space station. I can see myself lifting a corner of this mylar and just ruining this thing.

In your favor, new Mylar comes up much easier than the 40 year old stuff.

Not in your favor, 40 year old playfields can have flaky paint.

Quoted from alexmogil:
On the other hand here's the opportunity for some experience.

The game probably plays just fine with the Mylar.

So now you have to decide if you are ready to do a full playfield restoration.

You will need to clearcoat over any repairs you do.

-

If you are not ready for such a big project, then just play and enjoy your game as it stands. There is nothing wrong with it.

If you want your first big adventure, then we are all here to walk you through it

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#4589 6 years ago

111

KornFreak28

Pinside+ Frequent

8y 112K 7,863

Vid,

What is mostly used or recommended to secure the playfield to the perforated angle iron? Some C-clamps? Thanks

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1

#4590 6 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

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Sana'a

12y 164K 40,199 18

Quoted from KornFreak28:
Vid,
What is mostly used or recommended to secure the playfield to the perforated angle iron? Some C-clamps? Thanks

I like the "quick clamps" because the already have a rubber grip to keep the playfield from getting dented.

Get a short set, so you don't have giant clamp bars sticking up when you flip the playfield over.

518qcn_2 (resized).jpg

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#4591 6 years ago

111

KornFreak28

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OP
Quoted from vid1900:
I like the "quick clamps" because the already have a rubber grip to keep the playfield from getting dented.
Get a short set, so you don't have giant clamp bars sticking up when you flip the playfield over.

Awesome info Vid! Thanks

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#4592 6 years ago

111

KornFreak28

Pinside+ Frequent

8y 112K 7,863

Vid,

So I took a trip to Lowe's and Home Depot looking for some quality Brad point drill bits to clean the holes in my freshly restored IJ. I was surprised when all I could find was one little pack of 6 drill bits but they were in the larger size. Way too big for the tiny holes in the playfield. I took a trip to HF and found a set with all kind of sizes but wasn't sure about the quality? Is there a website where I can order them? What are the most commonly used sizes? Thanks!

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1

#4593 6 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,199 18

Good brad point bits are usually from England or USA.

Fuller makes great ones if you are in the States:

https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-BPD.XX/Brad_Points_Drill_Bits_for_Hardwood_-_Made_In_USA

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#4594 6 years ago

YAK

flakeloaf

Inactive member

7y 26,300 78

Hi! Awesome thread, I already feel like I've learned more than enough to make a real mess out of things! Practice makes... poverty?

I'm preparing to have my JP playfield cleared by an auto body shop, so I'm depopulating it to minimize later misery, and I'm running into issues getting the nails and wireforms loose.

Yeah, nails. Three-inch finishing nails, driven right into the playfield under some of the plastics. They're in there good and tight (they make a nice ping when I flick 'em) and I'm guessing they weren't part of the original design. They're getting a bit rusty but they feel pretty solid. Should I just leave them there? Removing them means hacking them off and drilling out the dreg because who knows what's going to come up with them if I just grab hold and pull. Why would someone do that, anyway?

In other "should I pull on this?" news, I'd like to change a rusty wireform that's beating my poor captive ball all to hell. Edit: It's definitely through-and-through, the other end of the wire pokes up through the underside of the board. Should I just tap kinda-gently on it to push it back through? Thoughts on leaving the other wireforms where they are and just taping over them so they don't get sprayed?

(Edit: The answer was "Just pull on it")

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#4595 6 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,199 18

Quoted from flakeloaf:
Yeah, nails. Three-inch finishing nails, driven right into the playfield under some of the plastics. They're in there good and tight (they make a nice ping when I flick 'em) and I'm guessing they weren't part of the original design. They're getting a bit rusty but they feel pretty solid. Should I just leave them there? Removing them means hacking them off and drilling out the dreg because who knows what's going to come up with them if I just grab hold and pull. Why would someone do that, anyway?

Those were the "pins" of pinball, and were a regular part of construction until maybe the 80s.

Sometimes under the plastics for sag support (like this Time Warp (look above "Making 5 Targets")):

08e4ae1cc113009a8486eef37ebd36c79dc3de28 (resized).jpg

or sometimes "pins" to bounce off of (like this Silverball Mania).

outlanenail (resized).jpg

Or the whole game was nails:

gtb3111baffleball2 (resized).jpg

Just gently rock the nail in a circle to open the hole up slightly, then pull it straight up. Once you do your first one, it's not so scary.

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2

#4596 6 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,199 18

Stainless steel finish nails look great once the playfield is finished.

Tumble them to make them shiny.

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1

#4597 6 years ago

WRD

way2wyrd

History Of Pinball

Fort Worth, TX

13y 116K 4,917 21 12

Thats a purty Baffle Ball

--Jeff

0

#4598 6 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Computer Extreme

9y 134K 15,505 31

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
If the game is faded, someone would have to color match in person as there would be no way of guessing how much fade it has.
You can take the playfield out with about 3 minutes of work, and just take it to any hardware store.
They will match you the paint for $15 for a quart with their color computer scanner.
I do that all the time when repainting cabinets.

What home depot/ lowes paint would you suggest?
Latex seems too soft.
What about some gloss acrylic enamel used for bookshelves or cabinets or wooden hand rails? Or an oil based with the included urethane additive?

And what about sandability and dry times? Or possible heat drying with a hair dryer?

Since its a touch-up Im putting mylar over the repair afterwards.

0

#4599 6 years ago

YAK

flakeloaf

Inactive member

7y 26,300 78

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
Those were the "pins" of pinball, and were a regular part of construction until maybe the 80s.
Sometimes under the plastics for sag support (like this Time Warp (look above "Making 5 Targets")):

Just gently rock the nail in a circle to open the hole up slightly, then pull it straight up. Once you do your first one, it's not so scary.

Today I learned a thing!

Galvanized is cool and all, but if they're under yellow plastics on a black and yellow table... I think maybe danger tape pattern might be more fun. I now embrace the nail.

0

#4600 6 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,199 18

Quoted from pinballinreno:
What home depot/ lowes paint would you suggest?
Latex seems too soft.
What about some gloss acrylic enamel used for bookshelves or cabinets or wooden hand rails? Or an oil based with the included urethane additive?
And what about sandability and dry times? Or possible heat drying with a hair dryer?
Since its a touch-up Im putting mylar over the repair afterwards.

Oil turns yellow, so don't use that on anything that has to match.

Buy a quart of the most expensive flat or eggshell paint they have.

Cheap paint will need to go on too thick for our uses; and cheap paint won't sand.

Dry times will vary, so give extra time if you are used to dealing with Createx

By vid1900

11 years ago

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