Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration


By vid1900

5 years ago



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There are 5896 posts in this topic. You are on page 75 of 118.
#3701 1 year ago

Vid, I've made great use of the rotisserie recipe you provided.

Any plans for a pinball dolley? something to easily move them around a house/flat surface?

#3702 1 year ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Vid, I've made great use of the rotisserie recipe you provided.

Glad to hear it!

Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Any plans for a pinball dolley? something to easily move them around a house/flat surface?

I've been working on a design that would move them around and safely flip them upright too, but it would need to be welded - no way I can see how to make it a bolt together.

Once I get it perfected, I'm sure I'll post the step by step.

#3703 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Glad to hear it!

I've been working on a design that would move them around and safely flip them upright too, but it would need to be welded - no way I can see how to make it a bolt together.
Once I get it perfected, I'm sure I'll post the step by step.

waiting patiently for your perfected design...

#3704 1 year ago

I'm going to be shopping out my first project EM later this month, and I'm trying to decide if I should attempt fixing the playfield at the same time. I've worked as a professional artist and done extensive color matching, so a lot of the steps shown here seem very do-able to me. I don't have a lot of experience dismantling and reassembling mechanics though. Is it crazy to jump into everything at once? Or should I spend time really getting to know the mechanics of my pin before I worry about the aesthetics?

#3705 1 year ago
Quoted from DaWezl:

I'm going to be shopping out my first project EM later this month, and I'm trying to decide if I should attempt fixing the playfield at the same time. I've worked as a professional artist and done extensive color matching, so a lot of the steps shown here seem very do-able to me. I don't have a lot of experience dismantling and reassembling mechanics though. Is it crazy to jump into everything at once? Or should I spend time really getting to know the mechanics of my pin before I worry about the aesthetics?

Sounds like you are overqualified for playfield restoration.

Put some bright lights on the playfield, take 500 pictures from every angle as you disassemble.

Group small parts in labeled ziplock bags.

Post on Pinside as you teardown and restore.

#3706 1 year ago

I have a playfield with a couple of pretty warn sockets from posts that have obviously been bashed repeatedly in the ball path. It looks like they were fixed a few times by adding washers on top and re-screwing down. Eventually the whole post seems to have gotten loose because the Tnut at the bottom came loose. So the holes got expanded and top and bottom of playfield wore away by loose washers and Tnuts moving around when post was hit. (Don't blame me, I got the machine like this, it wasn't my negligence).

I reviewed the chips and gouges write up, but still wondering what approach I should take, for this high-impact post. I have both 2-part clear epoxy glue, and 2-part wood filler epoxy "Woody". I've used the woody before for gouges around holes, but always covered with a cliffy after, so not sure how it would hold up to beating. Which compound should I use? Is either strong enough for a screwed-in (as opposed to tnut or washer/nut at the bottom)? Will a tnut secure firmly back into the epoxy, or should I tried to embed while still soft?

#3707 1 year ago

Also, anyone know what the "inserts" are at the top drop lanes on Safe Cracker. What's actually under the "1" "2" "3"? There's a reed switch / sensor underneath. My "3" has raised enough that it will sometimes catch a slow ball. I want to push it back down. But, I don't know how to remove the reed switch. Is it glued in there? What is between the switch and the playfield? Is there still a plastic insert or is it a piece of wood? Can I heat up with heat gun and push / clamp it back down?

#3708 1 year ago
Quoted from HighVoltage:

Also, anyone know what the "inserts" are at the top drop lanes on Safe Cracker. What's actually under the "1" "2" "3"? There's a reed switch / sensor underneath. My "3" has raised enough that it will sometimes catch a slow ball. I want to push it back down. But, I don't know how to remove the reed switch. Is it glued in there? What is between the switch and the playfield? Is there still a plastic insert or is it a piece of wood? Can I heat up with heat gun and push / clamp it back down?

They're likely just plastic inserts, covered over with artwork. I don't remember off-hand (haven't had my SC since '00.)

#3709 1 year ago
Quoted from HighVoltage:

I reviewed the chips and gouges write up, but still wondering what approach I should take, for this high-impact post. I have both 2-part clear epoxy glue, and 2-part wood filler epoxy "Woody". I've used the woody before for gouges around holes, but always covered with a cliffy after, so not sure how it would hold up to beating. Which compound should I use? Is either strong enough for a screwed-in (as opposed to tnut or washer/nut at the bottom)? Will a tnut secure firmly back into the epoxy, or should I tried to embed while still soft?

Get some Maple dowel just a hair bigger than the enlarged hole (lets say 3/16").

Using a fresh drill bit, drill out the enlarged hole to the Dowel size (again 3/16").

Cut a 1/2" slice of dowel.

Using Titebond3, slather inside the hole AND the dowel piece, tap dowel flush with top playfield surface.

Once dry, redrill proper hole size from top, then drill enlarged hole **just** enough for a new Tnut from the back.

Install post. If you use a long screw, you can put a locknut on the backside of the playfield to hold against the Tnut.

#3710 1 year ago

Cool! That sounds good... thanks.

Is "hardwood" dowel that Home Depot has good enough, or do I really want to find Maple specifically? Looks like HD lists hemlock, oak, aspen, basswood, and "hardwood", but no maple.

What about these?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-1-5-in-x-5-16-in-Wooden-Round-Fluted-Dowel-Pins-840516/202252100

http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-5-16-in-Wood-Doweling-Kit-841516/205585488

#3711 1 year ago
Quoted from HighVoltage:

Is "hardwood" dowel that Home Depot has good enough, or do I really want to find Maple specifically? Looks like HD lists hemlock, oak, aspen, basswood, and "hardwood", but no maple.

Probably good enough, but if you want something Maple, go to Woodcraft in Seattle

#3712 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

but it would need to be welded

Fortunately I have a welder! Can't wait...

#3713 1 year ago

Ok... I've reassembled eight ball deluxe and for several months been playing.

The only thing I can't solve is the slings. I keep getting the coil to repeat fire, 3,4,5,6 times after the ball hits the rubber. I've adjusted and adjusted. I'm to the point where I think I have the wrong switches... i.e. too flimsy and they just bounce back and forth several times making contact. In order to correct it as is... I have to adjust the gap WAY too wide, which on gentler hits the sling never fires.

I've adjusted the rubber for tension. I've adjusted the switches. Both sides do this, but the right is noticeably worse.

This is the LAST thing to make this machine play perfect. And it's driving me nuts.

Do you have a recommendation for switches?

#3714 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Use at your own risk,
Some people have reported yellowing:
Posted By: Jerry Wesolowski <j.wes@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sunday, 14 November 1999, at 12:31 p.m.
In Response To: Re: The Future debate revisited (TONY)
And now for the sad news. About five years ago I built up a WINGS 48 JILL. I coated the canopy with Future to show of the scratch built interior. When the Hasegawa kit was released, I took the vacu-formed kit off the shelf to compare them side-by-side. Lo and behold' over time the future finish does indeed yellow. So much so that it almost looked as if I had sprayed the canopy with Tamiya clear yellow. I hate to burst any bubbles but it really was noticeable.

This is exactly why I started using only 2PAC on all of my model builds. I too used Future back in the 90's, fast forward to now and it is a night and day difference if you look at my builds from then compared to now, the yellowing is way obvious. It is extremely obvious on the white and light colored cars.

#3715 1 year ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Ok... I've reassembled eight ball deluxe and for several months been playing.
The only thing I can't solve is the slings. I keep getting the coil to repeat fire, 3,4,5,6 times after the ball hits the rubber. I've adjusted and adjusted. I'm to the point where I think I have the wrong switches... i.e. too flimsy and they just bounce back and forth several times making contact. In order to correct it as is... I have to adjust the gap WAY too wide, which on gentler hits the sling never fires.
I've adjusted the rubber for tension. I've adjusted the switches. Both sides do this, but the right is noticeably worse.
This is the LAST thing to make this machine play perfect. And it's driving me nuts.
Do you have a recommendation for switches?

I don't think it's the switches.

I think you have the wrong rubber size.

Go down one size (if you think you need a 3", go to 2.75").

#3716 1 year ago

Okay - I have read through this thread at least a couple times but still find myself wanting advice on which direction to take with a Comet project I just embarked on. The playfield is worn in areas where it was not protected by mylar. The mylar is lifting around the inserts and also at an edge above a sling as well as a lot around one pop bumper. The whole thing is also crazed - little zig zag cracks in the clear that I fear go all the way through the paint.

I am proficient at touch-up work and have successfully spayed a prior project with automotive clearcoat.

Clearly the mylar lifting around the pop needs to come all the way off.

My main questions concern the rest of the mylar as I understand that system 9 can be prone to paint loss upon removal, and then the crazing. I keep asking myself WWVD? (What would Vid do?) Of course, the opinions of others are appreciated and welcome as always.

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#3717 1 year ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Okay - I have read through this thread at least a couple times but still find myself wanting advice on which direction to take with a Comet project I just embarked on. The playfield is worn in areas where it was not protected by mylar. The mylar is lifting around the inserts and also at an edge above a sling as well as a lot around one pop bumper. The whole thing is also crazed - little zig zag cracks in the clear that I fear go all the way through the paint.
I am proficient at touch-up work and have successfully spayed a prior project with automotive clearcoat.
Clearly the mylar lifting around the pop needs to come all the way off.
My main questions concern the rest of the mylar as I understand that system 9 can be prone to paint loss upon removal, and then the crazing. I keep asking myself WWVD? (What would Vid do?) Of course, the opinions of others are appreciated and welcome as always.

I picked up a Taxi on Friday. I'm attempting to avoid another eternal project and so I told myself that I would strip the PF, get the mylar off, level the inserts, give it a good naphtha rub, clear it, put it together, and play the heck out of it. I cleared the first layer last night, so this one is going pretty quick.

#3718 1 year ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

My main questions concern the rest of the mylar as I understand that system 9 can be prone to paint loss upon removal

Sys9-11 playfields were total Williams garbage.

Try heat to remove that Mylar, but scan the whole playfield first, because I would expect some paint loss.

Quoted from pinheadpierre:

and then the crazing.

Pretty much every Comet playfield looks like that. nice under the Mylar, crazed like crazy outside the Mylar.

If nobody over the years has added anything over that crazing, you **might** be able to remove it with ME + 96% Isopropyl.

-

Most likely, you'll end up repainting 90% of the playfield.

#3719 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Sys9-11 playfields were total Williams garbage.
Try heat to remove that Mylar, but scan the whole playfield first, because I would expect some paint loss.

Pretty much every Comet playfield looks like that. nice under the Mylar, crazed like crazy outside the Mylar.
If nobody over the years has added anything over that crazing, you **might** be able to remove it with ME + 96% Isopropyl.
-
Most likely, you'll end up repainting 90% of the playfield.

I just got a Taxi from a friend. I'm totally going with the Rat Rod mentality. Not doing any touchups. Strip, clean, clear, play.

#3720 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Sys9-11 playfields were total Williams garbage.

So much truth!! Every single sys 9-11 that I have restored I've left the mylar intact, masked it, and just laid down clear until the entire surface is even with the mylar. It's the least I could do, and at least the final result yields a nice looking "players condition" field.

#3721 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Try heat to remove that Mylar, but scan the whole playfield first, because I would expect some paint loss

Thank you, Vid!

I have removed mylar via freezing it with an upside down can of air. Is the heat method better in some way?

#3722 1 year ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Thank you, Vid!
I have removed mylar via freezing it with an upside down can of air. Is the heat method better in some way?

I've never done freezing, but did heat this weekend for the first time. Using a heat gun on low setting, the glue turns gummy pretty fast and pulled up no paint. This was on the Taxi I mentioned above. The paint wasn't super fragile, but it's not great either. The glue came off with quite a bit of effort using Goof Off. That area took the clear the best last night when I sprayed the first coat. The bare wood drank up a little, so this one is going to be a little more involved than my last cleared playfield.

#3723 1 year ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Thank you, Vid!
I have removed mylar via freezing it with an upside down can of air. Is the heat method better in some way?

Often freezing removes paint from older, poor condition playfields.

I have had much better luck with heat.

On newer playfields from the 90s onward, freeze works better.

#3724 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Often freezing removes paint from older, poor condition playfields.
I have had much better luck with heat.
On newer playfields from the 90s onward, freeze works better.

Thank you, sir!

#3725 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Often freezing removes paint from older, poor condition playfields.
I have had much better luck with heat.
On newer playfields from the 90s onward, freeze works better.

Is removing glue after the mylar is gone supposed to be a decent amount of effort? I imagine on iffy paint that you will lose a lot of paint surrounding the glue as you wipe that area.

#3726 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Is removing glue after the mylar is gone supposed to be a decent amount of effort? I imagine on iffy paint that you will lose a lot of paint surrounding the glue as you wipe that area.

There are many different brands of playfields, brands of Mylar, and many different ways they have been stored over the years.

No one can tell you exactly how much effort will be required.

#3727 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I don't think it's the switches.
I think you have the wrong rubber size.
Go down one size (if you think you need a 3", go to 2.75").

Wrong size provided in kit. Correct size fixed it.

I'm really tired of cheap pinball kits that don't have the parts you need.

Trend in this hobby...

Thanks vid.

#3728 1 year ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Wrong size provided in kit. Correct size fixed it.
I'm really tired of cheap pinball kits that don't have the parts you need.
Trend in this hobby...
Thanks vid.

Many times the owners manual will spec larger sizes because the composition of the rubber has changed over the years.

PBR seems to have the rubber that has the closest formula to the old stuff.

You always need extra slingshot rubbers around the shop, so keep 2.5, 2.75, 3 and 3.5" in stock.

#3729 1 year ago

Vid,

I have a new Metallica that started having chipping clear around the drain hole. I put a piece of clear Gorilla Tape over the area to protect it and keep it from getting worse, which it has done.

IMG_9006 (resized).jpg

Stern sent me a clearcoat "repair kit" to repair the damage, but I'm wondering if I can remove the tape at all without taking a large section of the separating clear with it?

If I do remove the tape, will the Stern repair kit bring the sections with missing clear back to level with the rest of the playfield? If not, would something like this do the job?

amazon.com link »

What is your advice?

I'd really like to be able to restore the area to near original condition, and then re-apply the protection, of course.

#3730 1 year ago

Oh, and another question.

I have a Flash Gordon that has had an overlay applied to the playfield, and then clearcoat was applied over overlay (by someone else). Unfortunately, in the area around the saucer the overlay has lifted, probably due to the tension from the clearcoat drying.

IMG_9815 (resized).JPG

I need to glue this overlay section down securely as it will see alot of action with the ball dropping in and then ejecting out of the saucer.

I was thinking of finely sanding between the overlay and the playfield with sandpaper, cleaning the area with rubbing alchohol, and then using one of these glues to secure it to the playfield:

amazon.com link »

amazon.com link »

I know you're not a big overlay guy but thought you (or someone else reading this) might have some ideas on the matter.

#3731 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Stern sent me a clearcoat "repair kit" to repair the damage, but I'm wondering if I can remove the tape at all without taking a large section of the separating clear with it?

Just leave the tape in place.

Too risky to pull it, IMHO.

Quoted from Fytr:

If I do remove the tape, will the Stern repair kit bring the sections with missing clear back to level with the rest of the playfield?

Stern's repair kit is just clear nail polish, so it will not create some miracle repair.

#3732 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I have a Flash Gordon that has had an overlay applied to the playfield, and then clearcoat was applied over overlay (by someone else). Unfortunately, in the area around the saucer the overlay has lifted, probably due to the tension from the clearcoat drying.

Draw me an arrow on that pic where it's lifting.

On my phone, I'm not seeing where the problem is.

#3733 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Draw me an arrow on that pic where it's lifting.
On my phone, I'm not seeing where the problem is.

The entire inside slope around the hole is lifted, and somewhat lighter coloured in the photo.

IMG_0139 (resized).JPG

#3734 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

The entire inside slope around the hole is lifted, and somewhat lighter coloured in the photo.

Gotcha.

It's hard to know if the slope of the saucer was polished enough to accept the glue of the vinyl. It may be rough and thus tough to get the adhesive to stick.

If it was in my shop, I'd cut along the black line and remove the sloped, saucer vinyl.

I'd then paint the saucer to match the other fake wood print (it looks like it's darker underneath), and then clear over it.

#3735 1 year ago

Hello Vid,
I think I have a good idea on how to handle this from reading other posts in the thread, but I'd like to be sure of the best way to get these nails back in.
I want to be sure to drill the clear just enough so that the nail heads will be flush with the playfield
I'm thinking I need to heat up the clear with a heat gun, then use a brand new brad bit (not what I have in the picture), then drill.
Should I go high speed or slow? I'm thinking high speed with low pressure?
There's no way I can get all the way in there with a drill press so it would have to be with a hand drill.

Thanks for the help.

IMG_9077 (resized).JPG

IMG_9076 (resized).JPG

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#3736 1 year ago

A sharp bit will **shave** away wood and clearcoat, even if you just turn it by hand.

A brad point might not stay centered since the hole is already there in the wood.

#3737 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

A sharp bit will **shave** away wood and clearcoat, even if you just turn it by hand.
A brad point might not stay centered since the hole is already there in the wood.

So are you saying I should carefully shave away the clear by hand with the sharp bit? I just tried on a hole under the apron and it looks like it works pretty good... should I heat up first since some of the holes are kind of irregular?

#3738 1 year ago

*double post*

#3739 1 year ago
Quoted from PhilGreg:

So are you saying I should carefully shave away the clear by hand with the sharp bit? I just tried on a hole under the apron and it looks like it works pretty good... should I heat up first since some of the holes are kind of irregular?

If the bit is sharp, you can shave the clear AND the wood by hand, so the nail head will sit flush.

#3740 1 year ago

Yes, brand new bit.
Ok I'll try that, thank you sir!

#3741 1 year ago
Quoted from PhilGreg:

Hello Vid,
I think I have a good idea on how to handle this from reading other posts in the thread, but I'd like to be sure of the best way to get these nails back in.
I want to be sure to drill the clear just enough so that the nail heads will be flush with the playfield
I'm thinking I need to heat up the clear with a heat gun, then use a brand new brad bit (not what I have in the picture), then drill.
Should I go high speed or slow? I'm thinking high speed with low pressure?
There's no way I can get all the way in there with a drill press so it would have to be with a hand drill.
Thanks for the help.

Get some diamond dremmel bits to gently grind off the clear:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/166764447/50pc-universal-diamond-bit-set-for?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-craft_supplies_and_tools-tools_and_home_improvement-tools&utm_custom1=b88aa881-50a5-482d-82ea-e545685ff488&gclid=CMCJ8-_guNACFU9MDQodGvwM9Q

or something similar off amazon or ebay.

put masking tape down around the work area in case of a slip.
medium speed gentle pressure.

This is what the Professionals use.

#3742 1 year ago

I have duct tape on my Meteor playfield. I pulled the tape off successfully but there is some hardened on residue from the tape on my playfield. Any tips on removal??????

#3743 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomahawkjim:

I have duct tape on my Meteor playfield. I pulled the tape off successfully but there is some hardened on residue from the tape on my playfield. Any tips on removal??????

I would start with 91% alcohol. Repeat if needed to soften the glue and it should eventually come off.

#3744 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomahawkjim:

I have duct tape on my Meteor playfield. I pulled the tape off successfully but there is some hardened on residue from the tape on my playfield. Any tips on removal??????

Naphtha works well on hardened duct tape residue.

On 90s and newer playfields, WD40 is faster.

#3745 1 year ago

Noob question. I have a compressor that I use for inflating my tires. Can be plugged into a lighter or a wall. Screws right onto the tire stem.

Can I use this with one of those Harbor Freight air paint brushes?

#3746 1 year ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

Noob question. I have a compressor that I use for inflating my tires. Can be plugged into a lighter or a wall. Screws right onto the tire stem.
Can I use this with one of those Harbor Freight air paint brushes?

Probably not.

The noise alone would probably make you kill yourself, let alone the low, pulsing, pressure output.

#3747 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Probably not.
The noise alone would probably make you kill yourself, let alone the low, pulsing, pressure output.

Ugh.

I really don't want to buy an air compressor that I only need once. What do you think of this set/kit? I only need to paint black lines around some inserts in the center of the playfield. I was also thinking of spraying clearcoat on the sections I'm painting (just the center of the playfield about 4"x8") but your instructions only seem to cover a complete playfield clearcoat?

amazon.com link »

#3748 1 year ago

I used to have one of those aerosol can sprayers as a kid. It worked fine, but the replacement cans were $$$.

Just like clearcoating a car, the problem is finding a place to stop where the edge is protected.

#3749 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Probably not.
The noise alone would probably make you kill yourself, let alone the low, pulsing, pressure output.

Bwahahaha. Made me think of my little PC pancake compressor. It's brain numbing loud. I bought a used 33gal on wheels to use for running a spray gun and it was worth every penny.

#3750 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I used to have one of those aerosol can sprayers as a kid. It worked fine, but the replacement cans were $$$.
Just like clearcoating a car, the problem is finding a place to stop where the edge is protected.

What about your thoughts for a partial clearcoat? The area would really only be about 4"x8"...

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