Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration


By vid1900

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,191 posts
  • 596 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by vid1900
  • Topic is favorited by 1,412 Pinsiders
  • Topic is sticky in its sub-forum

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,945 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_20181118_172058 (resized).jpg
IMG_20181114_115519 (resized).jpg
IMG_20181113_224637 (resized).jpg
20181109_142728 (resized).jpg
20181109_142712 (resized).jpg
20181109_142637 (resized).jpg
Williams Stardust (resized).JPG
20181106_075449 (resized).jpg
20181106_075447 (resized).jpg
20181106_075429 (resized).jpg
20181106_075423 (resized).jpg
20181106_075405 (resized).jpg
20181106_075345 (resized).jpg
20181105_201643 (resized).jpg
20181105_201635 (resized).jpg
20181022_193903 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

142 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 6191 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 124.
#501 5 years ago

Vid and Terry,

Thanks for the help!!!

Once again, a great thread. Very informative for a rookie like me!

#502 5 years ago

Sorry, double post.

#503 5 years ago

Triple post

#504 5 years ago
Quoted from GaryMartin:

That's the Caretaker from Phantasm isn't it?

Heres a more recent Photo of Angus Scrimm , very nice fellow and boy does he have some stories from early film
--Jeff

201485_10150178056408901_7922701_o.jpg

#505 5 years ago

Hi,

Is anybody good with colors? I am very solid with seeing colors, and shades and generally with knowing what mixes to create what. Hell, just to verify that I wasn't giving myself too much credit, I took a comprehensive online color test last night and came through with an insanely good score, despite being half asleep.

Here's the what: I am restoring my 1979 Gottlieb Totem. There is going to be a little playfield touch up, some back box touch up, and cabinet touch up.

I just bought an airbrush setup, and I have purchased the Createx Opaque Airbrush colors recommended by Vid in this tutorial. I have practiced with Frisket, spraying on wood, and doing some swirl designs in the Frisket to see how painting would actually be, and so far I am pretty damn happy. The issue is:

1) Does anybody recommend mixing something in with these paints? I know Createx sells a reducer, but the Blick near me didn't carry it. I can order it online, but is it necessary or should I just use the stuff straight?

2) Does anybody have a clue how to get to the purple color shown in this picture? The orange and yellow will be easy, but this purple is plaguing me. I get that generally red and blue make purple, and according to a little color wheel that I bought, a sort violet/red looks like it is on the right track - which means more red than blue...but I just can't seem to get there. It is wayyyyyyy too dark, so I added white, and it still too dark. This is not my first go at trying to get even in the ballpark of this color.

IMAG1090.jpg

I am confident I can get the shade right, if I can even get near the proper spot on the color wheel.

Thanks, everyone!

-MinnPin

#506 5 years ago

It is easy to darken a tint rather than lighten it so start lighter and darken it up.

What I usually do is use a paint brush and toothpick and mix the colour on a piece of card and dab some on to the area which needs to be painted to see if it matches or is close. Wipe it clean every time. Then you will know what colours you need to use when you mix for the airbrush.

Anywho, if you have the Createx starter pack you will need to start with a white base and tint from there.

#507 5 years ago
Quoted from MinnPin:

1) Does anybody recommend mixing something in with these paints? I know Createx sells a reducer, but the Blick near me didn't carry it. I can order it online, but is it necessary or should I just use the stuff straight?

99% of the time I use Createx straight from the bottle.

Quoted from MinnPin:

2) Does anybody have a clue how to get to the purple color shown in this picture? The orange and yellow will be easy, but this purple is plaguing me. I get that generally red and blue make purple, and according to a little color wheel that I bought, a sort violet/red looks like it is on the right track - which means more red than blue..

I would probably start with maroon or purple and add more red, rather than try to make a purple from scratch.

You could also take the empty head to the hardware store and have them mix you a quart of semi-gloss maroon paint with their computer.

#508 5 years ago

This may be a dumb question but better to ask.
To remove the playfield would I disconnect all of the plugs that are bundled at the bottom left corner of the playfield?
Payfield.jpg

#509 5 years ago
Quoted from NickRocco:

This may be a dumb question but better to ask.
To remove the playfield would I disconnect all of the plugs that are bundled at the bottom left corner of the playfield?

Payfield.jpg 273 KB

Yes. Take some good pictures of the connections to the boards in the back box of the machine. You won't need to disconnect all of the plugs coming up from the bottom to the boards, but many of them. Some of them will be for flipper wiring, coin door wiring, power from the transformer, etc, those can stay plugged in. You can label them if you like, but good pictures should be sufficient. When it's time to plug them back in consult your pictures. The wires will have a memory from being bent in the same position for decades and want to go back where they were.

#510 5 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

Take some good pictures of the connections to the boards in the back box of the machine.

Take the pictures you think you need, then take that many more...and mark the connectors or harnesses you take apart, so you can reconnect later with out a lot of stress.

Robert

#511 5 years ago

Should I be disconnecting plugs at the boards or on the underside of the playfield?

#512 5 years ago
Quoted from NickRocco:

Should I be disconnecting plugs at the boards or on the underside of the playfield?

Don't mess with the plugs (red circles). All wiring should be bundled together and then run up into the bottom of the back box (blue circle). It should run into some corrugated black tubing and then up into the back box.

150433.jpg
#513 5 years ago

Follow the playfield looms to the boards in backbox and disconnect there. I like to write the plug numbers(j113 for example) on the side of the plug with a fine tip sharpie and take a pic before removing. good luck

#514 5 years ago

Also, the bundles of wires are usually zip-tied to a mount in the backbox. You'll need to cut those zip ties to free the bundles.

#515 5 years ago

Thanks for the help on the paint you guys. I guess I will go buy some purple and start there.

As for the cables, I read some of what was said regarding removing them to remove the playfield, but here's what I did: I just marked each connector with a matching letter.

One connector gets a black sharpie "A" on it and the one that plugs into also gets an "A", then next, a "B" and so on.

If you want the letters gone later on, a little rubbing alcohol and the connectors are like new.

Good luck!

-MinnPin

#516 5 years ago

Vid said: "You could also take the empty head to the hardware store and have them mix you a quart of semi-gloss maroon paint with their computer."

I'm guessing they would not mix Createx airbrush paints for you, correct? If not, what kind of paint should you request for use with airbrush?

Thanks, Vid! You rock!!!

Ryan Claytor
Elephant Eater Comics
www.ElephantEater.com

#517 5 years ago
Quoted from RyanClaytor:

I'm guessing they would not mix Createx airbrush paints for you, correct? If not, what kind of paint should you request for use with airbrush?

The cab can be painted with semi-gloss latex (you still need to sand before you paint, so it sticks).

Exterior house paint has UV inhibitors so it will resist fading just like Createx does.

Usually the bottom or insides of the head has an unfaded section to get a good color sample from (the hardware store needs about a dime sized (10mm) section to get a reading from. Under the coin door or under the legs is good too, if you have the balls to wheel in the whole lower cab, lol.

Thin the paint so it runs through your airbrush.

I've got a whole cab restoration guide coming up in the future.

#518 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The cab can be painted with semi-gloss latex (you still need to sand before you paint, so it sticks).

Exterior house paint has UV inhibitors so it will resist fading just like Createx does.

Usually the bottom or insides of the head has an unfaded section to get a good color sample from (the hardware store needs about a dime sized (10mm) section to get a reading from. Under the coin door or under the legs is good too, if you have the balls to wheel in the whole lower cab, lol.

Great tips, as usual. Thanks a bunch, Vid.

Quoted from vid1900:

Thin the paint so it runs through your airbrush.

Any recommended thinners?

Quoted from vid1900:

I've got a whole cab restoration guide coming up in the near future.

Oh, man...looking forward to it. Vid, thanks for being the Patron Saint of Pinball.

Sincerely,
Ryan Claytor
Elephant Eater Comics
www.ElephantEater.com

#519 5 years ago
Quoted from RyanClaytor:

Any recommended thinners?

Follow the can label as far as thinning.

Many times it's just plain water.

1 week later
#520 5 years ago

Thanks as always, Vid and others for the tips. I didn't go the house paint route, but rather just did a lot of messing around with the Createx until I got it right. I am not painting the whole cabinet over, because largely it is in really good condition. Some gauges needed wood-fill and some scratches here and there need work, so it will be more of a touch up job, than a do over.

My playfield doesn't need much painting, so most of the work will be on my cabinet. That purple color I was trying to figure out (pictures a few posts up), I finally nailed. My girl was very helpful (as Vid had suggested - women have the color thing down). I should note, I am very good at differentiating shades of colors and I have zero color-blindness, but still could not even figure out how to get close to that shade of purple. She looked at it for about five whole seconds and said "it looks almost all red, with only a tinge of blue in it."

By god, she was right! I finally had a chance to sit down this past weekend and sure enough - a nice sized puddle of red, one decent drip of blue got me near correct, and then several drips of white brought the whole thing down to the proper shade.

My next issue was this: when I tested the paint by brushing it on next to the color I was trying to match, it looked perfect. When I airbrushed it, I went too heavy on it, making it look like a darker, non-matching color. If you look at your older painted cabinets, the over-laying colors seem very, very thin...for instance I can see the black fleck through the purple in places. Keep in mind, this is the order - yellow, black fleck, orange and then purple. Through the orange and purple, I can still see the black flecks below. This tells you how thin the layers are. I started spraying lighter and one or two passes tops and boom...I am right on target.

Thanks again, guys!

#521 5 years ago

Vid how about some photo's of before and afters of your PF restorations? I'm surprised 11 pages and no before and afters of your work.

#522 5 years ago
Quoted from 2RustyBalls:

Vid how about some photo's of before and afters of your PF restorations? I'm surprised 11 pages and no before and afters of your work.

I wanted this to be more of a "how to" guide, rather than just me waving my dick around .

At the bottom of page 6 there is a completed F14:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/6

I've got a whole pile of playfields completed and awaiting clear coat. I'll try and get some good completed pics for you guys.

#523 5 years ago

Maybe slighlty off topic, but the paint on Bigfoot's chin on my WH2O is rubbing off. This is because when he spins his head, the chin hits the arm fur, and after repeated spinning it's rubbed off the paint at the bottom of the chin. Any suggestions on what type of paint to use for something like that? I imagine it would need to be durable enough so that it's not constantly rubbing off (ayo).

1 week later
#524 4 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

Maybe slighlty off topic, but the paint on Bigfoot's chin on my WH2O is rubbing off. This is because when he spins his head, the chin hits the arm fur, and after repeated spinning it's rubbed off the paint at the bottom of the chin. Any suggestions on what type of paint to use for something like that? I imagine it would need to be durable enough so that it's not constantly rubbing off (ayo).

Had the same problem. There's a stop behind the armature linkage to prevent the arm/log from getting too close to Bigfoot's chin. Bend it a little forward and the problem goes away.

I touched up his chin with acrylics ... Good as new.

#525 4 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

Had the same problem. There's a stop behind the armature linkage to prevent the arm/log from getting too close to Bigfoot's chin. Bend it a little forward and the problem goes away.
I touched up his chin with acrylics ... Good as new.

Oh, I didn't know you could bend the armature linkage. I'll have to check that out.

#526 4 years ago

Ok, every place that I can find that sells the 3M Scotch Weld AC77 plastic primer only sells it by the case, the gallon or the drum. Anyone here order a case and have a bottle to sell or know of a place where I can order just one bottle?

Also, thanks Vid for the awesome tutorial. It has inspired me to save a Star Pool that would otherwise probably been parted out!

#527 4 years ago
Quoted from Euchrid:

Ok, every place that I can find that sells the 3M Scotch Weld AC77 plastic primer only sells it by the case, the gallon or the drum. Anyone here order a case and have a bottle to sell or know of a place where I can order just one bottle?
Also, thanks Vid for the awesome tutorial. It has inspired me to save a Star Pool that would otherwise probably been parted out!

I bought this stuff from Grainger, which after researching 3M's site, looks to be the same thing:

http://www.grainger.com/product/3M-Primer-2RUF7?s_pp=false

It's pricey but it goes a long way. I've done about 60 inserts and barely made a dent in the bottle.

-SP

#528 4 years ago
Quoted from spaceport:

I bought this stuff from Grainger, which after researching 3M's site, looks to be the same thing:
http://www.grainger.com/product/3M-Primer-2RUF7?s_pp=false
It's pricey but it goes a long way. I've done about 60 inserts and barely made a dent in the bottle.
-SP

Zoro Tools has the same product for $12.97. They also have a 15% coupon code today on orders over $50: SNOW15. Free shipping too!

http://www.zorotools.com/g/00064898/k-G3464282

#529 4 years ago
Quoted from erichill:

Zoro Tools has the same product for $12.97. They also have a 15% coupon code today on orders over $50: SNOW15. Free shipping too!
http://www.zorotools.com/g/00064898/k-G3464282

Looks like I'm getting it from there from now on...lol

#530 4 years ago

And for what it's worth, the product Zoro sells comes in a 3M branded bottle not the generic one they have pictured on their site.

#531 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I've got a whole cab restoration guide coming up in the future.

I can't wait. Great articles Vid.

#532 4 years ago

The stuff from Grainger is branded "3M Scotch Weld AC77" as well. I think that is just a generic placement picture.

#533 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Sometimes you find that an insert has "a mind of its own" and won't stay down for the epoxy to set.
There could be some tension in the wood (maybe the reason the insert popped out in the first place).
To fix this, we use a 12" C-clamp ($9 at Harbor Freight) to hold it from rising above the playfield surface.
Knock the edges off of 2 blocks of good quality (flat) plywood, and clamp with 2 pieces of wax paper (in case any glue squeezes out). Don't forget the wax paper, you won't be happy if you glue a piece of wood to the playfield....

11.jpg 65 KB

How long do you have to leave the clamp on? I have a few to glue and only one c-clamp. I don't really want this to take 3 days but if I have to.. I will

#534 4 years ago

flash, How close are the inserts? I was able to a few on my f-14 with a block of wood and some wax paper.

#535 4 years ago

They're far apart, can't get them with the same clamp.

#536 4 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

How long do you have to leave the clamp on? I have a few to glue and only one c-clamp. I don't really want this to take 3 days but if I have to.. I will

If you are using 5 minute epoxy, then 6 minutes.

#537 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If you are using 5 minute epoxy, then 6 minutes.

What he said

#538 4 years ago

is the 5 minute epoxy thin enough to work for the "I just want to push it back down" crowd (vs removal)? Imagine two processes. The HF stuff was on sale for 99 cents so loaded up.

- Apply epoxy
- Clamp fast enough that it gives
- as insert lowers, smears glue down (and over)

~or~

- Clamp to push down
- remove clamp
- apply epoxy
- reapply clamp to hold there

I imagine case 1 would give the best holding performance if you can move quick enough, but 2nd is easier. Maybe 2nd case with more the water thin super glue so easier to seep past the insert.

#539 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Make a pass in the guide you cut. Notice how the pre-cut guide perfectly takes the paint.
Make as many passes as you need to match the thickness of the original line. Most thin lines need 2 passes.
You could not do this freehand with a brush.
Once you have mastered this technique, you will be quickly fixing playfield details you never though were possible.

APPLY.jpg 46 KB

OK, I have done some nice playfield work myself but this little trick is AWESOME!!!... Thanks for posting some of this work. It takes alot of time to teach people how to do this stuff and I have never had the patience. Nice job.

#540 4 years ago

Vid,
would you say that any playfield is restorable? When I hear the term "wall hangers..." I feel that the pf is beyond repair. But as long as the pf isn't rotting or has chunks of wood dug out then everything else can be fixed (including warping or missing artwork).

-Rev

#541 4 years ago
Quoted from revmex:

Vid,would you say that any playfield is restorable? When I hear the term "wall hangers..." I feel that the pf is beyond repair. But as long as the pf isn't rotting or has chunks of wood dug out then everything else can be fixed (including warping or missing artwork).
-Rev

Technically yes but time and money......May not be the best use of time / money.

#542 4 years ago
Quoted from revmex:

Vid,
would you say that any playfield is restorable?

You would hate to put $1500 of work into a playfield, if you could just buy a reproduction.

Sometimes the inserts are so faded, and replacements are not available, that you just want to find a better specimen.

#543 4 years ago

Vid,

Was wondering how long do you wait for the Createx paint to cure before it is safe to shoot clear? Can you shoot after you heat set it?

#544 4 years ago
Quoted from R4840:

Vid,
Was wondering how long do you wait for the Createx paint to cure before it is safe to shoot clear? Can you shoot after you heat set it?

Good question.

I usually shoot the following day.

It's probably dry enough once heat set....Maybe I'll shoot a test panel one day and see if I can make it screw up 10 minutes later...

#545 4 years ago

Thanks, was already to clear and on the final wipe down with Prep sol notice a small spot that needs touch up. I think the Prep Sol is a little aggressive but I live in California and We cant buy naphtha.

#546 4 years ago
Quoted from R4840:

Thanks, was already to clear and on the final wipe down with Prep sol notice a small spot that needs touch up.

I have filled in tiny holes and cracks and cleared the same day.

You ALWAYS find some little spot you overlooked.

#547 4 years ago
Quoted from R4840:

I live in California and We cant buy naphtha.

Can you buy lighter fluid for a Zippo? That is naphtha and usually you can find it pretty easy. If not what do people who have a Zippo use for lighter fluid in CA?

#548 4 years ago

ok so I bought the airbrush that vid suggested but for some reason the paint is not coming out because it`s too thick. Can I use paint retarder instead of thinner or do I absolutely need thinner.

Retarder makes the paint more liquid and is completely transparent.

Any advice?

#549 4 years ago

Are you sure it's too thick?

Normally Createx shoots fine straight from the bottle.

Try raising your PSI.

Try shooting just water and see if you have a blockage somewhere.

#550 4 years ago

If I

Quoted from vid1900:Are you sure it's too thick?
Normally Createx shoots fine straight from the bottle.
Try raising your PSI.
Try shooting just water and see if you have a blockage somewhere.

The brush says maximum 30psi, and if I shoot water that thing sprays like a demon. As soon as I put the paint, I get lots of air and very little paint.

There are 6191 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 124.
Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 149.00
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Ponte Vedra Beach, FL
$ 10.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
1,450
Machine - For Sale
Blaine, TN
From: $ 155.00

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside