Bay Area, CA
Quoted from Jtslade:The pancake and hot dog 3 gallon compressor is on sale at HB..49$
Anyone use these for airbrushing? Good experience or is it too small?
I used it for airbrushing. No problem at all.
(Topic ID: 33446)
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Quoted from Jtslade:The pancake and hot dog 3 gallon compressor is on sale at HB..49$
Anyone use these for airbrushing? Good experience or is it too small?
image_(resized).jpg
I bought one of these when I first got my compressor about 8 months ago. It was returned the day I bought it, as it was taking 45min-1hr to fill the tank. The manager proceeded to harass me about the return, until he plugged it in and saw it wasn't filling. I spent the extra $$ and got a decent compressor at the local hardware store.
I came across this LOTR playfield restoration album https://www.flickr.com/photos/strepe/sets/72157629712734202/.
Quoted from vid1900:Take the apron off and try to figure out what they put on the playfield.
Looks like it could be Varathane.
See if it's alcohol soluble, water soluble or MEK soluble.
Vid, spoke to the person who did the pf. He says it is 2PAC. Let me know if i still should run any tests on it under apron to learn more specifics.
Any ideas on a (relatively) easy fix?
Sana'a
Quoted from Elicash:Vid, spoke to the person who did the pf. He says it is 2PAC.
Any ideas on a (relatively) easy fix?
Pretty easy.
Mix up some 2PAC in a syringe and repair just like a ghosted insert:
Quoted from vid1900:Pretty easy.
Mix up some 2PAC in a syringe and repair just like a ghosted insert:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/2#post-551833
Vid,
Who would you recommend to do playfield restoration? to atleast have the inserts unsunken and clear coated?
Quoted from vid1900:HEP does real nice work:
http://www.highendpins.com/about_us.htm
Chris mentioned to me that he no-longer wants to do PF only work, since it takes too long and takes away from full-game restores. 
Quoted from Coyote:Chris mentioned to me that he no-longer wants to do PF only work, since it takes too long and takes away from full-game restores.
Was it a sys11 game, lol?
I hope he keeps doing playfields, I saw one he just did a few weeks ago - nice.
Quoted from Jtslade:The pancake and hot dog 3 gallon compressor is on sale at HB..49$
Anyone use these for airbrushing? Good experience or is it too small?
image_(resized).jpg
I'm using something similar. As Vid said ... good for airbrush, not so good (at all) for HVLP. You'll be waiting repeatedly for it to recover before your job is done.
Quoted from Jtslade:The pancake and hot dog 3 gallon compressor is on sale at HB..49$
Anyone use these for airbrushing? Good experience or is it too small?
image_(resized).jpg
Ok just found This coupon print off for the 8 Gallon / 2HP / 125psi Oil compressor at HB normally $149 with this coupon in link for $99 (at the bottom)
http://struggleville.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/IMG_20160406_0001.jpg
Here is the link at HB..
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68740.html
Kinda feel like this will be of better all around use. I have not been able to find a good classic Speedaire or similar quality 30-50 gallon compressor for under $1K used on CL here in Florida. They must been in high demand..
Quoted from mack505:Crap... There was a piece of plastic stuck sitting in the outlane, I pulled it up and the play field graphic came with it.... what can I even do here, it's an image? (Sega Harley Davidson) Ugh...
image_(resized).jpeg
Scan a good playfield, print a white waterslide.
Quoted from vid1900:Pretty easy.
Mix up some 2PAC in a syringe and repair just like a ghosted insert:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/2#post-551833
Thanks Vid. Assuming i don't need to depopulate the whole playfield to do this? Also, is this safe to do in my basement or should i take playfield outside to do this? I know that 2PAC is dangerous, but wondering if such a small amount would require me to take pf out to garage.
Quoted from lb1:Vid, I am looking into options to clear, one of them being to rent a booth. Taking into account shooting the clear, cure time, sanding, and polishing, how long would it take to do a playfield, start to end. Thanks.
Shooting a layer of clear takes about 2 minutes.
Cure depends on the product, it is usually hard enough for a 2nd coat in 15 minutes - sand in 24 hours.
Polishing depends on the product, but most are pretty hard after 1 to 7 days.
Quoted from Elicash:Assuming i don't need to depopulate the whole playfield to do this?
Nope, should go quick.
Quoted from Elicash:Also, is this safe to do in my basement or should i take playfield outside to do this?
Take it outside.
I know you won't be spraying, but better safe than your kids growing fur on their tongues.
Quoted from packie1:Vid,
Just saw this last week and I thought I would pass it on to everyone. Seems price for a white ink printer is coming within range of us regular folk.
white_printer_(resized).JPG
Mike
It's funny that ALPS printers that all the hobby shops use to print white (and metallic silver and gold) were only $499.....
Might be time for ALPS to get back to making printers, because they are selling for $800 used on Ebay.
Hey Vid, question. I want to remove print from some of my inserts but do not want to remove them to do so because they are perfectly level. How would I go about it without damaging the art work surrounding the insert? Unless I have somehow missed it?, I have gone through every page of the thread and saw nothing on insert art removal.
Thanks!!
Vid,
Two questions...
1) best way to remove inserts?
2) can't get ppg 2pac here, any other? What about alresdy mixed?
Thanks
Quoted from Pinphila:2) can't get ppg 2pac here, any other?
Kayfield Automotive Paints 1030
35 East Uwchlan Avenue Bldg 4 Suite 324
Exton, PA 19341
(610) 518-0200
-
Spray Products Corp
1323 Conshohocken Rd
Plymouth Meeting, PA 19462
(800) 543-7710
-
City Auto Paint & Supply Inc
2652 South 8th Street
Philadelphia, PA 19148
(215) 336-4005
-
Bill Flannery Automotive
247 East Girard Avenue 1st Floor
Philadelphia, PA 19125
(215) 291-5557
Quoted from sohchx:I want to remove print from some of my inserts but do not want to remove them to do so because they are perfectly level. How would I go about it without damaging the art work surrounding the insert? Unless I have somehow missed it?
A sharp chisel, held vertically, is all you need.
Very easy once you have done it!
Quoted from vid1900:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/18#post-1739707
A sharp chisel, held vertically, is all you need.
Very easy once you have done it!
Okay. What I was using in the past was a box cutter razor blade held at an angle. It worked well for the most part. I just wanted to know if there was a safer alternative. Thank you!!
Quoted from vid1900:Kayfield Automotive Paints 1030
35 East Uwchlan Avenue Bldg 4 Suite 324
Exton, PA 19341
(610) 518-0200
-
Spray Products Corp
1323 Conshohocken Rd
Plymouth Meeting, PA 19462
(800) 543-7710
-
City Auto Paint & Supply Inc
2652 South 8th Street
Philadelphia, PA 19148
(215) 336-4005
-
Bill Flannery Automotive
247 East Girard Avenue 1st Floor
Philadelphia, PA 19125
(215) 291-5557
The problem is unless you have a commercial business, they won't sell to you.
Quoted from Pinphila:The problem is unless you have a commercial business, they won't sell to you.
There are 19 other companies within 50 miles of you.
Or if you are homebound, call Welle (you have to call, not order by web) and have it shipped to your house.
Quick question, I am working on a Pinbot. I want to glue 1 of the plastics back together. I was thinking clear epoxy, then take a piece of blisterpack material and put it on the bottom to reinforce. Any epoxy I should look for, or stay away from?
Quoted from Insane:Quick question, I am working on a Pinbot. I want to glue 1 of the plastics back together. I was thinking clear epoxy, then take a piece of blisterpack material and put it on the bottom to reinforce. Any epoxy I should look for, or stay away from?
Williamstown, ON
I am about to start touching up a kiss playfield, i have an overlay of the center section (first pic) that i want to put down. I imagine that i would need to sand it down? What grit of sandpaper should i use? The second picture is of the area in question.
I also need to touch up both snakes and part of peter criss and ace frehley. Would i just sand (feather) the areas locally? Then clear, touch up, and then final clear?
This information is great.
Quoted from Nick_C:I am about to start touching up a kiss playfield, i have an overlay of the center section (first pic) that i want to put down. I imagine that i would need to sand it down? What grit of sandpaper should i use? The second picture is of the area in question.
I also need to touch up both snakes and part of peter criss and ace frehley. Would i just sand (feather) the areas locally? Then clear, touch up, and then final clear?
Job one is to glue in the missing inserts. New ones won't match the old ones color wise, so make sure your entire rows are all one color.
Job 2 is to fill all the cupped inserts so they are level.
Job 3 is to shoot a thin layer of 2PAC to lock down all the loose paint.
Scan the entire playfield and make black printed waterslide decals of Peter and Ace. Spray over the old art with white paint, then apply the decals to restore their faces.
I do have the inserts, I had removed them cause they were sunk in, I am trying to find 3M primer in order to reglue them. If I understand correctly, wherever the paint is worn, you do not sand and feather edges first? All you do is clear touchup and reclear? When is the leveling/smoothing of the playfield done? On the final clear or the initial coat?
All this help is greatly appreciated.
Quoted from Nick_C:If I understand correctly, wherever the paint is worn, you do not sand and feather edges first?
correct.
Quoted from Nick_C:All you do is clear touchup and reclear?
If the paint was solid, you could clean it up with Magic Eraser first, but if it's all flaky, you've got to lock down what you've got.
Quoted from Nick_C:When is the leveling/smoothing of the playfield done?
After you have done all your restoration.
Quoted from vid1900:If the paint was solid, you could clean it up with Magic Eraser first, but if it's all flaky, you've got to lock down what you've got.
I always thought the most important part of painting was a well attached bottom layer. If the paint is flaking and loose, it seems like it would compromise all layers on top of it.
Quoted from e_lectro:I always thought the most important part of painting was a well attached bottom layer. If the paint is flaking and loose, it seems like it would compromise all layers on top of it.
Many 70s Bally have paint that just flakes off, even on NOS playfields.
We lock down with a layer of clear to preserve what we can.
It would of course be better if the paint was well adhered, then we could sand it so the clear would have more tooth; but sometimes you just have to play the hand you are dealt.
Quoted from pinster68:What happened to the Serve Again and 500k inserts? Can these be fixed, or do they need to be replaced?
(If it isn't obvious they are under Mylar)
It looks like the clear and the graphics are no longer adhered to the inserts and are being held in place only by the Mylar.
Short version - if that Mylar ever comes off, so do the graphics.
Quoted from vid1900:It looks like the clear and the graphics are no longer adhered to the inserts and are being held in place only by the Mylar.
Short version - if that Mylar ever comes off, so do the graphics.
Seems Diner is always trashed when I find a well used one. I want one one day.
Color decals and such...
So is everyone here using a Color Laser for printing those Color Decals on the clear waterslide paper? (in previous post)
I have a bunch of B/W laser printers for standard waterslide decals..
For color I can use a Xerox Workcenter 7855 which are pretty good CMYK Color Laser printers. There is a Xerox 570 with Fiery which is also an option.
I also can use a HP Designjet Z6200 with Color Backlit Film which I think could make some good looking translite overlays.
Quoted from Jtslade:So is everyone here using a Color Laser for printing those Color Decals on the clear waterslide paper?
If they are getting their decals printed at a hobby shop, they are probably being printed on an ALPS printer, because those can print white.
Thank you!
Just ordered the Frisket Roll, Createx Paint sets (opaque and fluorescent) , French Curve, metal straight edge, Xacto knife and blades, metric & imperial circle templates..
Ordered from Utrecht.com art supplies with the coupon code VENP and saved almost $25 bucks..
Thank you Vid!!!!!!!!
Vid, I just got my first machine, and I have been reading over your guides. Incredible work, and I commend you on being gracious enough to share this with everyone. My Firepower board isn't too bad at all, the only real wear that needs to have paint applied to it are the areas the the ball has worn down as a result of cupped or sunken inserts. At this point, it is nice enough that I don't want to pull everything and clear over the play field. I just want to make localized repair. I saw elsewhere someone uses either polycrylic or that other stuff that you recommended to "build up" the inserts and then sand them down. I'm scared to death of sanding them down...and the paint around it as well. I figured it might be easier to pull them out as per your guide, touch up the paint on the actual insert itself, and then coat the top of them with this leveling compound. After it had dried, I was hoping to use your method for leveling new inserts to fit to get it flat, and then re-install and glued it.
So the short question is: do you think this could work? Any downsides to it?
Here's an overview of the play field, you can see around the multiplier lights there are a few touchups that I need to do, but that overall it's not bad.
Quoted from La_Porta:At this point, it is nice enough that I don't want to pull everything and clear over the play field. I just want to make localized repair.
The 2PAC is thin like water, so you could try to level each insert without taking the game apart. Just make sure the playfield has been shimmed up dead level.
But I'll still suggest you strip the playfield and **do it right**. You will learn a lot, and FP is a great game to learn on.
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