Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration


By vid1900

5 years ago



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#2951 2 years ago
Quoted from Dillonsdaddy:

I'm reticent to tackle the gouge mark above the left flipper here in this pic as it is adjacent to paint I'd like not to disturb.

Yep, that's a tough one.

If it were on my bench, I'd scan the entire area.

Mask off the paint and using a detail sander, take it down to wood, including removing the "Kings & Queens" lettering on the wood (too hard to possibly sand around that intricate lettering).

Match the shellac, allow to dry, and then re-decal the "Kings & Queens" lettering with black waterslide decal.

#2952 2 years ago

Vid...I don't understand. Are you suggesting that I sand MORE than the actual blemish and remove the lettering (which is in very good shape)? The blemish in the shellac does not touch the lettering. I was hoping there would be a viable solution that I could apply to JUST that part of the old shellac that is worn off by the flipper. The rest is in great shape. I could also see an alternative that leaves the blemish as character as the rest of the playfield is really very good. Honestly if I can't directly attack the isolated blemish of the shellac I will probably leave it alone. Thanks for your insight.....I am in awe of your skills. I'm good, but not THAT good!

#2953 2 years ago

Usually, spot touchups turn into "splotch touchups" in a few years, because they fade at different rates.

So yes, I would sand the entire wooden area, because a lasting spot touchup is probably impossible.

Sand, shellac, decal, clear = good as new.

x_(resized).jpg

#2954 2 years ago

thanks Vid. How do I tint Shellac darker? I have an "amber" but the original has either become darker somehow or a darker shellac was used.

#2955 2 years ago
Quoted from Dillonsdaddy:

How do I tint Shellac darker? I have an "amber" but the original has either become darker somehow or a darker shellac was used.

You can buy different color shellac flakes, and use layers to get the correct matched color.

It will darken over time, so if you are on the edge of a shade, go lighter.

#2956 2 years ago

I think I know what Vid is getting at here, maybe. My first machine was this Bon Voyage. Someone, I am not sure who, had done some restoration on it. It really does look nice and I have nothing to complain about.
playfield_6_(resized).jpg

But after reading lots of stuff and looking at lots of pictures, including this thread, I have learned to better recognize various things. Here is a crop and magnification of the lower playfield where there is a big blue area with some white lettering.

playfield_lower_bonus_lettering_(resized).jpg

It really doesn't look too bad, but it is noticeable if you know to look for it. That sort of thing is probably impossible to avoid if you try to paint an area with text and try to avoid area with the text. The way Vid does it is no doubt the only way to make it "perfect". It all depends on the level of perfection you want to achieve....

Actually, when I look at this, I get the idea that if they were willing to spend some more time, effort, and no doubt blood sweat and tears, they could have made this darn near perfect. Or maybe it is just not possible that way. It looks like they went for it on the words "LIT LETTER", and got pretty close, but maybe decided not to try for it on the rest.

#2957 2 years ago

It's not easy, I did a fair job repainting my Flipper Clown All yellow, purple and white repainted, also the "SPIN" blue.

IMG_2876_(resized).JPG

#2958 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

STUFF YOU ARE GOING TO NEED TO CLEAR A PLAYFIELD.
--------------------------
-
paint-respirator.jpg
Next you need the all important Chem-mask. You can get one at the store that sells you the clear for $29. Home Depot sells an Isocyanate rated mask, but it is not with the other dust masks, it's in the isle with the Mold abatement products. Don't ask me why.
You need to wear the Chem-mask anytime you spray clear, rattle can paint, work with solvents (Naphtha, Toluene, Lacquer Thinner...) or sand painted cabinets (commercial products continued to use lead paint well into the 2000s - you can safely assume any pinball cabinet is painted with lead paint). Do not sand pinball cabinets in your basement or garage - you will NEVER get the lead dust out.
Your Chem-mask only works if it is sealed to your face. That means you need to shave the day of the spraying. That means you people with fancy facial hair are going to need to shave the mask's pattern through it.
You need to keep the mask in it's thick zip-lock bag when not in use. The chem part of the mask lasts about 40 hours of use, and then you can start to smell the stench of the clear. Don't continue if you can smell the clear - stop and replace the cartridges!
-

Is that the one form HD? I could not fine one that specify Isocyanate rated?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Medium-Lead-Paint-Removal-Respirator-62093HA1-C/202080148

#2959 2 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Is that the one form HD? I could not fine one that specify Isocyanate rated?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Medium-Lead-Paint-Removal-Respirator-62093HA1-C/202080148

http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Large-Paint-Project-Respirator-6311PA1-A/100195886

They are not stocked in the dust mask section.

They are in the Mold Products section.

#2960 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Good pics to show where you are at!
1. Sand out the shooter lane and see if it can be cleaned up.
2. Sand out the ball trail that is in the natural wood before it enters the black field and wizard's cape. Either sand all the surrounding wood, or tone the repair to match the old wood.
3. Spray a light coat of clear to lock down any loose wood fibers.
4. Touch up where the paint is worn through. Do it any way you feel comfortable.
5. Scan and make up some waterslide decals to replace text on inserts.
6. Keep updating us on your progress.

I have been reading through this thread and I thought I would make one comment. I recognize vid is the expert here, but I have a suggestion vs. just sanding the ball trails, etc. in the bare wood. In furniture repair, if there is a dent or gouge in UNFINISHED wood you simply apply a damp paper towel and a hot iron and steam it out. The steam will exand the wood fibers and many times you can completely remove the damage. When you sand, you are removing material and that is irreversible. I would suggest trying the hot iron first. I've done it countless times with fantastic success on wood.

#2961 2 years ago
Quoted from robotron911:

In furniture repair, if there is a dent or gouge in UNFINISHED wood you simply apply a damp paper towel and a hot iron and steam it out. The steam will exand the wood fibers and many times you can completely remove the damage.

You can certainly remove a dent with steam, but not a gouge.

When a gouge occurs, the wood fibers are gone. So we can't expand them because they are no longer there.

Even with a dent, if you can see that the wood fibers have broken, you won't be able to expand them without the broken fibers looking darker when you stain - accenting the repaired area. So even if you puff the fibers back up, you will still have to sand past the broken ones.

Quoted from robotron911:

I have a suggestion vs. just sanding the ball trails

A ball trail (let's say it's worn into the shooter lane arch) happens where the clear coat has worn through and now the ball is wearing away the wood fibers.

The wood is worn and the remaining fibers are filled with black coil dust.

So if you think about it, steam won't help us in a ball trail repair:

1. The wood fibers have been worn away, so there are no compressed fibers to expand.

2. The remaining wood fibers are broken and "rough".

3. The wood has been soaked with sealer before screenprinting, and then cleared over in the final step. This makes it not absorb water evenly

4. Black metal dust has contaminated the wood fibers.

That leaves us with sanding down to undamaged wood (removing the coil dust in the process), or filling the wear and then painting over the filler to match the surrounding playfield.

cleanDent_(resized).jpg
brokenFibers_(resized).jpg

#2962 2 years ago

This may or may not have been covered.

Problem.

Removing unwanted post from p/f. Leaving a screw hole visible between flippers. Red/black color. EM.

So, is it possible to make 95% good?

Fill hole with wood filler?

But, how do sand without touching any of the good area? Is there a tool that you can sand with that is like the tip of a matchstick?

Then use enamel paint?

Thanks.

#2963 2 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Removing unwanted post from p/f. Leaving a screw hole visible between flippers. Red/black color. EM.

You could just put a plastic screw hole plug in the hole.

That way the next owner could return it to factory if they wanted.

hole_plugs_(resized).jpg

#2964 2 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

So, is it possible to make 95% good?

Post a picture please.

#2965 2 years ago

It's not factory. Was added but never meant to be there. Game I am thinking of buying but no idea what I can expect with repair work. Will never be perfect but good enough for eye not to be drawn to it?

Pic.

Thanks.

IMG_3663.JPG

#2966 2 years ago

If that's the only problem with the playfield, I'd just put a black plastic plug into it and play the hell out of it.

If it was getting restored, then I'd scan the "MFRS. CHICAGO SI, ILL.", fill the hole with Bondo, paint the entire area matching red/black, put the lettering back on with a decal, and clear coat.

#2967 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If that's the only problem with the playfield, I'd just put a black plastic plug into it and play the hell out of it.
If it was getting restored, then I'd scan the "MFRS. CHICAGO SI, ILL.", fill the hole with Bondo, paint the entire area matching red/black, put the lettering back on with a decal, and clear coat.

Wow, that seems excessive. On a solid color area like that I had good luck just filling, touch-up and spot clear with lacquer then clear coat. Note the extra post holes above the "ON" text.

BeforeRestore_013_(resized).jpg

afterclear_(resized).jpg

#2968 2 years ago

Hi Vid,
What is happening here around the insert? Is it because of to much heat when heat setting?
All inserts are re-glued very well.

IMG_6497_(1)_(resized).JPG

#2969 2 years ago
Quoted from John_in_NC:

Wow, that seems excessive. On a solid color area like that I had good luck just filling, touch-up and spot clear with lacquer then clear coat. Note the extra post holes above the "ON" text.

BeforeRestore_013_(resized).jpgafterclear_(resized).jpg

That looks amazing!

I certainly don't have the skills to do what Vid suggests.

All I would want to do is fill, spot touch up, spot clear if needed. Enamel paint would mean no clear needed?

My main question is how to you spot sand? Never seen or used a dremel but is this the tool that can sand tiny spots??

Thanks

#2970 2 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

My main question is how to you spot sand? Never seen or used a dremel but is this the tool that can sand tiny spots??

Check out the Cratex abrasive sticks.

http://www.cratex.com/blocks-and-sticks/

Vid's method is actually much easier and will have a better result since the majority of people are never going to be able to match paint that closely. Vid would also tell you that the touch-up will age at a different rate than the original paint.

#2971 2 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Check out the Cratex abrasive sticks.
http://www.cratex.com/blocks-and-sticks/
Vid's method is actually much easier and will have a better result since the majority of people are never going to be able to match paint that closely. Vid would also tell you that the touch-up will age at a different rate than the original paint.

They look interesting, thanks.

Color matching seems like an art of it's own.

#2972 2 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

That looks amazing!
I certainly don't have the skills to do what Vid suggests.
All I would want to do is fill, spot touch up, spot clear if needed. Enamel paint would mean no clear needed?
My main question is how to you spot sand? Never seen or used a dremel but is this the tool that can sand tiny spots??
Thanks

I used a pinball and a small hammer to get the wood retrained to level or slightly below surface, filled and smoothed without sanding with spot filler. Repainted the colors and keylines in the whole area (black green and yellow) cutting in around the lettering. No "spot" sanding until after the whole playfield had a coat of lacquer to sand.

Your playfield looks nice, I would personally do microtouch-ups and seal it with a thin coat of lacquer just over the painted touchups, polish out with novus 2 once cured.

#2973 2 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

Hi Vid,
What is happening here around the insert? Is it because of to much heat when heat setting?
All inserts are re-glued very well.

IMG_6497_(1)_(resized).JPG

I'm no vid, but I'll take a stab at this. I bet when you heat set it, the two surfaces (wood vs plastic) heated at different rates and caused the seam to appear in the paint because it would have cured at slightly different rates.

Again, I'm not expert, but I wonder if several very thin coats getting individually heat set would be the answer.

#2974 2 years ago
Quoted from John_in_NC:

I used a pinball and a small hammer to get the wood retrained to level or slightly below surface, filled and smoothed without sanding with spot filler. Repainted the colors and keylines in the whole area (black green and yellow) cutting in around the lettering. No "spot" sanding until after the whole playfield had a coat of lacquer to sand.
Your playfield looks nice, I would personally do microtouch-ups and seal it with a thin coat of lacquer just over the painted touchups, polish out with novus 2 once cured.

Never would have thought of using a pinball.

What kind of spot filler did you use? I might have to buy some.

#2975 2 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Never would have thought of using a pinball.
What kind of spot filler did you use? I might have to buy some.

Bondo or spot putty, not sure which I used.

#2976 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

I'm no vid, but I'll take a stab at this. I bet when you heat set it, the two surfaces (wood vs plastic) heated at different rates and caused the seam to appear in the paint because it would have cured at slightly different rates.
Again, I'm not expert, but I wonder if several very thin coats getting individually heat set would be the answer.

Sounds possible, do you think I should remove all the paint or just smooth out the edge and paint again? (Frisket is still on)

#2977 2 years ago

Has anyone tried any of the Testors Aztek paints? I know the normal testors paints aren't recommended. I ask because I can get them local, which is nice if I need a color I don't have, also they offer a clear which would be nice to shoot over a small spot repair if it wouldn't make it impossible to clear over at a later date.

#2978 2 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

What is happening here around the insert? Is it because of to much heat when heat setting?
All inserts are re-glued very well.

Did this happen as soon as you painted it, or after you set it?

#2979 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Did this happen as soon as you painted it, or after you set it?

It happened when I was heat setting. So lesson learned, dont bake your playfield with the heat gun...

#2980 2 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

Has anyone tried any of the Testors Aztek paints? I know the normal testors paints aren't recommended. I ask because I can get them local, which is nice if I need a color I don't have, also they offer a clear which would be nice to shoot over a small spot repair if it wouldn't make it impossible to clear over at a later date.

The entire line is meh and the only upside really is that it's airbrush ready with no thinning required. I'd Stick with Createx. Better pigment and a much larger range of colors. If you can't find it locally buy it from the link below. Much better quality at about the same price. Cheapest anywhere online.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/Search.html?query=createx#/?_=1&filter.custitemcustitem_manufacturer_usoffice=Createx%20Colors&page=1

#2981 2 years ago

Vid, I love reading your guides. Thank you! How would you repair this damage on a Wcs? After reading your guide, my thinking was remove loose pieces, sand, fill with clear coat, water slide decal on top. Or....replace insert.

Thank you!

image_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).jpeg

#2982 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinphila:

Vid, I love reading your guides. Thank you! How would you repair this damage on a Wcs? After reading your guide, my thinking was remove loose pieces, sand, fill with clear coat, water slide decal on top. Or....replace insert.
Thank you!

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

I'd worry that the clear might not stick to that glue (or whatever it is) on the inserts.

Don't pull the inserts out until you are sure you can get new ones, but I'm leaning towards replacement.

#2983 2 years ago

Vid, what's the best course of action for tackling these wear areas underneath the ball drops in my Earthshaker? I was just planning to fill each worn area with a little 5-minute epoxy, skim it with the edge of a credit card before dry so it's level with the playfield surface, then add a piece of mylar once dry. I won't be clearcoating this playfield.

100_7127_(resized).JPG

100_7126.JPG

100_7125.JPG

#2984 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I'd worry that the clear might not stick to that glue (or whatever it is) on the inserts.
Don't pull the inserts out until you are sure you can get new ones, but I'm leaning towards replacement.

I have no clue what the substance is on the insert? It looks like there is an insert then glued on the artwork piece. Or it's he insert material cracking.

I tried to find the specific insert but no luck yet.

Would a casting resin work? Or clear epoxy?

#2985 2 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

The entire line is meh and the only upside really is that it's airbrush ready with no thinning required. I'd Stick with Createx. Better pigment and a much larger range of colors. If you can't find it locally buy it from the link below. Much better quality at about the same price. Cheapest anywhere online.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/Search.html?query=createx#/?_=1&filter.custitemcustitem_manufacturer_usoffice=Createx%20Colors&page=1

i have createx I ordered. I can also get at hobby lobby, hate going there, about 30 miles away. Just thought I'd ask about the aztek as Michaels carries it and are about 10 miles away. thanks for the info.

#2986 2 years ago

I was planning to fill these shallow chips with bondo, sand even, then paint. Right call?

IMG_2967(1)_(resized).JPG

#2987 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinphila:

I have no clue what the substance is on the insert? It looks like there is an insert then glued on the artwork piece. Or it's he insert material cracking.

I tried to find the specific insert but no luck yet.

Would a casting resin work? Or clear epoxy?

Search Pinballlife, PPS, PBR and see if you can find those inserts (or mic them and post the diameter here for some used ones).

Resin or Epoxy is not going to make a durable insert.

#2988 2 years ago
Quoted from mack505:

I was planning to fill these shallow chips with bondo, sand even, then paint. Right call?

Fill those shallow chips with clearcoat, then sand, then paint the field.

#2989 2 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Vid, what's the best course of action for tackling these wear areas underneath the ball drops in my Earthshaker? I was just planning to fill each worn area with a little 5-minute epoxy, skim it with the edge of a credit card before dry so it's level with the playfield surface, then add a piece of mylar once dry. I won't be clearcoating this playfield.

100_7127_(resized).JPG100_7126.JPG100_7125.JPG

Not Vid obviously, but I did the same with some bondo, got it leveled, then used one of Cliffy's switch protectors. Those spots take a beating!

#2990 2 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Vid, what's the best course of action for tackling these wear areas underneath the ball drops in my Earthshaker? I was just planning to fill each worn area with a little 5-minute epoxy, skim it with the edge of a credit card before dry so it's level with the playfield surface, then add a piece of mylar once dry. I won't be clearcoating this playfield.

100_7127_(resized).JPG100_7126.JPG100_7125.JPG

I'd use some wood epoxy because it is a little less brittle.

Regular epoxy or Bondo will chip out under repeated ball drops.

Once dry, ease the slot with a rat-tail file.

Like dsuperbee says, the Cliffy switch protectors are the just the ticket for this problem.

#2991 2 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

i have createx I ordered. I can also get at hobby lobby, hate going there, about 30 miles away. Just thought I'd ask about the aztek as Michaels carries it and are about 10 miles away. thanks for the info.

Love hobby lobby. I'm there at least twice a week. It sounds like a hike for you, luckily I pass it every day.

#2992 2 years ago

Does anyone have any good Airbrush tips and tricks / cleaning links or vids.

I found one on Youtube that seemed relevant but I really haven't starting using my HB airbrush yet so not sure how relevant it is..

#2993 2 years ago
Quoted from Jtslade:

Does anyone have any good Airbrush tips and tricks / cleaning links or vids.
I found one on Youtube that seemed relevant but I really haven't starting using my HB airbrush yet so not sure how relevant it is..
» YouTube video

PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. I bought the cheapest plastic model car kit I could, and have been shooting the body over and over until I learn how the brush works, what PSI to use, etc...It was still about 15 bucks, but has been a great help in learning the distance and PSI. You might be able to find ones on CL for even cheaper.

#2994 2 years ago

CLICK ON THIS TO SEE BOTH PAGES

AppGuide_CreatexAirbrushColors.pdf

#2995 2 years ago
Quoted from Jtslade:

Does anyone have any good Airbrush tips and tricks / cleaning links or vids.
I found one on Youtube that seemed relevant but I really haven't starting using my HB airbrush yet so not sure how relevant it is..
» YouTube video

I found this site useful when I recently got my first airbrush... http://www.airbrushguru.com/cleaning-your-airbrush.html

#2996 2 years ago

So because of this thread and a lot of people on here who follow it, I feel like all I see is great looking PF restorations. Does anyone have examples of all the recent "bad" restorations? I would like to see a few for comparison.

Not trying to make anyone feel bad or call them out. When all you see is great restores it's hard to appreciate them or truly see what a great job it is.

#2997 2 years ago

Need some advice. I have a Taxi pf that someone clear coated. Looks very good, but appears many layers of clear were put down. Having an issue at a couple post holes where clear is separating away from pf. Started very minor, but seems to be getting worse, as when i shoot a shot that directly hits post, almost seems to "absorb" the balls momentum and rejections off post are not strong.

Wondering if there is something i can do to fix this (that is relatively easy). Nut under post never seems very tight because of the clearcoat separation. But dont want to make worse by tightening.

Here are some pics.

playfield_2_(resized).jpg

playfield_1_(resized).jpg

#2998 2 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

I have a Taxi pf that someone clear coated. Looks very good, but appears many layers of clear were put down. Having an issue at a couple post holes where clear is separating away from pf.

Take the apron off and try to figure out what they put on the playfield.

Looks like it could be Varathane.

See if it's alcohol soluble, water soluble or MEK soluble.

#2999 2 years ago

The pancake and hot dog 3 gallon compressor is on sale at HB..49$

Anyone use these for airbrushing? Good experience or is it too small?

image_(resized).jpg

#3000 2 years ago
Quoted from Jtslade:

The pancake and hot dog 3 gallon compressor is on sale at HB..49$

Anyone use these for airbrushing? Good experience or is it too small?

You could run a small airbrush, but not a HVLP for clearcoating or a wet-sander.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/5#post-725962

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