Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration


By vid1900

5 years ago



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There are 6048 posts in this topic. You are on page 59 of 121.
#2902 2 years ago
Quoted from jimy_speedt:

Thanks,
Sorry to ask again. As I touch up with acrylic colour, drawing lines with an acrylic ballpen is not an option ?

All the ones I have tested have smeared when I have cleared over them .

If you are going to try some kind of paint pen, test on a piece of white painted wood, then clear over it, before you commit to an entire playfield.

#2903 2 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

Vid, i have a question regarding removal of mylar. This is a thought i had, could you, or has anyone ever tried compressed air. Say take a ball inflation needle and insert into a bubble, and very slowly add pressure. Seems like it would pop the mylar off of the playfield. Maybe if you rubbed the edges of the bubble as you did it. Again just a thought i had, could be the worst thing ever to try, so please don't try thinking i said its a good idea.

The problem is not so much removing the Mylar, it's not removing the paint with the Mylar.

The older the playfield, the more likely HEAT is going to be needed to soften the adhesive.

90's playfields can often use freezing (with upsidedown canned air) to remove the Mylar.

-

Be aware, that there are some playfields that no matter what you do, the Mylar can't be removed without damage - especially over the inserts.

Leave these playfields alone.

-

Don't remove Mylar unless it is bubbling and trapping the ball or if you are in the process of clearcoating the playfield.

Otherwise, let the Mylar do it's job protecting the playfield.

#2904 2 years ago

Vid

Here are some pics of my recently installed totan playfield as per our conversation. Please help!

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#2905 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

All the ones I have tested have smeared when I have cleared over them .
If you are going to try some kind of paint pen, test on a piece of white painted wood, then clear over it, before you commit to an entire playfield.

Made the exercise with 2 thick posca and a thin pen. Then with a paint brush I clearcoated over the 3. The thin one smeared. What do you think of the other ones ?

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#2906 2 years ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Vid
Here are some pics of my recently installed totan playfield as per our conversation. Please help!

Good photos.

Those look like normal scratches.

Wax the game, put in another set of new balls.

Once the clear is hard enough to take a polish, you can buff it with Novus2. If it's still new, it might be too soft.

#2907 2 years ago
Quoted from jimy_speedt:

Made the exercise with 2 thick posca and a thin pen. Then with a paint brush I clearcoated over the 3.

The left one looks OK in the photo, the center and right look terrible.

#2908 2 years ago

I can recommend Posca pens as well.
I have used them (different sizes) for several playfields (including thin lines) and have not had any issues with the clear.

#2909 2 years ago

Vid, here's a question for you.

I'm doing a Paragon where the centre bonus area is totally blown out, but all the inserts are perfect - the numbers are still perfectly intact and probably only need a bit of levelling.

Should I still chip them out to decal the whole area? Seems a shame to ruin the original numbering when it looks fine.

#2910 2 years ago

I'd leave the original ink.

It will probably still be around long after the decal has worn away.

#2911 2 years ago

I have a donated HS I'm doing my 1st full restoration on and I have a handful of inserts I'm not sure if I should scrape completely and decal or just touch up slightly or leave alone. Most of the damage is in the finish, but I have no feel for what will look acceptable after its cleared and what won't. I'm planning to decal the key lining anyway, it's just getting the lettering right that worries me. Would you give me a quick "what would Vid do" for each of these?
Thanks

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#2912 2 years ago
Quoted from BigSpinner:

I have a donated HS I'm doing my 1st full restoration on and I have a handful of inserts I'm not sure if I should scrape completely and decal or just touch up slightly or leave alone. Most of the damage is in the finish, but I have no feel for what will look acceptable after its cleared and what won't. I'm planning to decal the key lining anyway, it's just getting the lettering right that worries me. Would you give me a quick "what would Vid do" for each of these?

Wipe the current inserts with Naphtha to see what they will look like cleared.

Since you already need to decal to restore many of those Keylines, you could just put new text over the old text at the same time.

A little LED flashlight will light them up so you can see any chips in the black ink.

13
#2913 2 years ago

Just saying "thank you!" for this thread. Beyond helpful for my first playfield restoration. I didn't take it to the "ultimate" level and made quite a few mistakes along the way, but i'm still very happy with the result. THANKS VID!

Lower playfield before and after

#2914 2 years ago

Excellent work, congrats!

#2915 2 years ago

I think I've read this thread several times trying plan my restoration but I'm hung up on something I don't think I've seen covered yet. Take a look at this Stellar Wars, how do you handle areas like this with all of the speckling and irregular edges? All of the planets and the space background are covered in it.

Part of me thinks it is almost better to crete an overlay with newer looking ships and graphics like some of the re-themed games have done, but I'd like to save that as a last resort.

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#2916 2 years ago
Quoted from e_lectro:

Take a look at this Stellar Wars, how do you handle areas like this with all of the speckling and irregular edges?

You could repaint the solid color, then put a waterslide decal over the top with the black dots.

Even if you were just retouching a few chips by hand, those black spots are a restorers dream.....instant camouflage.

#2917 2 years ago

I can see using decals for small bounded areas and using a small brush for touchups, but what is a good consistant method for very large areas? I've seen people use toothbrushes for arcade machines to match the blue splatter on pacman cabinets, but it does not give consistent spot sizes.

#2918 2 years ago

I'd still use decals on larger areas of a playfield.

On old EM cabs, I drilled some larger holes in a old HVLP sprayer so it splatters out "fly-specs" of paint. Lots of youtube videos on that.

#2919 2 years ago

Vid,

Quoted from vid1900:I'd still use decals on larger areas of a playfield.
On old EM cabs, I drilled some larger holes in a old HVLP sprayer so it splatters out "fly-specs" of paint. Lots of youtube videos on that.

Vid,
Do you happen to have a link or two to these YouTube videos or an explanation of how you drilled your hvlp gun. All I can find are videos that show flicking the paint with a brush of some kind to get the fly speck pattern.

#2920 2 years ago

Your playfield is too small of an area to do flyspecking with a gun.

They gun shoots out a 10" radius of specs.

#2921 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Your playfield is too small of an area to do flyspecking with a gun.
They gun shoots out a 10" radius of specs.

I was actually wondering because my Bally Freedom cabinet is white with red flyspecks all over. Doing it by hand is what's keeping me from repainting it. But I guess this question should go over in your cabinet restore thread. I'll ask over there for any curious minds.

#2922 2 years ago

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#2923 2 years ago

I finally pulled the trigger and shot my first coat of clear. compared to all the prep work and setting up a spray booth, the actual shooting went pretty fast. I started with a 1/4 cup of clear (plus 1 oz of hardener) but it ran out about 1/2 way. I quickly mixed another 1/4 cup and then had about 1 oz left when I finished. I have the same "bubble" problem I saw in an earlier post, The little divots were there from the beginning, so I'm sure it was either something that came out of the gun or something on the surface that should not have been there. I'm not terribly concerned about this coat, I have to sand, decal, touch up, etc.... but I need to get it right before the next time. Did anybody ever figure out what causes this?

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#2924 2 years ago
Quoted from BigSpinner:

Did anybody ever figure out what causes this?

Yep, that's the classic Silicone crap that got soaked into the playfield.

Rough up the depressions with sandpaper, drip in 2PAC with glass eyedropper, sand it all back flat.

#2925 2 years ago

Can that silicone stuff be taken care of by wiping down with naptha, or is it something you don't know is there until you've sprayed?

#2926 2 years ago

I never spare any wiping with Naphtha. A little extra wiping is worth not having a big mess.

But sometimes you still get a few fisheyes.

Fill 'em up and continue on.

#2927 2 years ago

You need to be sure to have a pile of fresh clean wiping cloths when you start the naphtha cleaning process. If you use the same cloth you just end up smearing the silicone around. Change wiping cloths often.
Been there, done that.

#2928 2 years ago

I wiped the surface 3 times before I sprayed, but I wasn't careful to use a clean rag each time. I also was using a new HF gun and even though I took it apart and cleaned it before I used it, I suspect that some of the goop they pickled the internal parts with may have contaminated the CC as well.

#2929 2 years ago

Always shoot some lacquer thinner into a bucket to clean out a gun before you start shooting.

#2930 2 years ago
Quoted from Tallon:

I've been working on my D&D machine for a couple months now after re-reading your thread, I'm a little unsure of my next step now. I pulled everything off the field front and back and proceeded to clean (simple green) the PF then took ME and alcohol to it and leveled all the inserts. I'm debating on using water slide or just painting the lettering and key lines back in. From what I'm reading now, I should shoot it in a light coat of clear either way and then start the repairs or should I paint the couple spots of burn thru and the launch track in the lane and then shoot a light coat of clear. I'm a little confused on this point. I was also wondering about spot repairs on the PF if I'm clearing the whole thing anyway. Like I said, I have one spot of burn thru and would like to just color match a spot and thin down some paint with some extender to clean it up and the shoot it. Your saying no brushes at all and mask everything?
I'm open to input and would love to hear suggestions. I have a really good airbrush and compressor so I'm willing to mask and go but it seem extreme for something I could match and have done in 20 seconds (did warhammer 40k for years so my painting ability is pretty damn good).
image-619.jpgimage.jpgimage-419.jpg

So I have done a little work since my post. I have also worked a couple other machines so D&D was back burnered a couple times. But.......since it just came back from clear, I figured I would post a couple pics.

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#2931 2 years ago

Apparently some Auto Zones are carrying 2Pac Clears in small quantities. I'll take some pics tonight and investigate

#2932 2 years ago
Quoted from Tallon:

So I have done a little work since my post. I have also worked a couple other machines so D&D was back burnered a couple times. But.......since it just came back from clear, I figured I would post a couple pics.
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Holy Chit that's beautiful!!!

#2933 2 years ago
Quoted from Jtslade:

Holy Chit that's beautiful!!!

Thanks but I give all the credit to the CC guy (who asked I NOT send more business his way). I just got lucky with a few good color matches. Listen to vid, don't be afraid to experiment, and ask a ton of questions. I nearly drove my CC guy nuts but when he got it, I already had it scuffed and ready to shoot. he said all he had to do was wipe it down a shoot. Don't get me wrong, he did a ton but it was all booth time.

Yes, it looks like it was dipped in glass and its truly nicer in person. Waxing starts Tuesday but I don't have any real time to spend on assembly til sunday. Watch the my D&D restore thread. I reviving it as soon as I get going again.

#2934 2 years ago

Quote from Vid 1900 "Of course once you have a nice sized air compressor, you can wet sand pneumatically and get the play field really flat..."

Does anyone have any input on wet sanding pneumatically? I'd like to get a sander that works for clearing play fields.. Harbor Freight one would be nice.. any tips from you guys would be helpful.

Again Vid1900 thank you for all your contributions!! After two trips to HB I have everything to start Clearcoating the PF (initial) then fix gouges/holes/insert leveling..

Working on my shopping cart for the airbrush and Createx paints.

#2935 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

PAINT-1.jpgYou always read somebody asking "What color paint matches the blue on XXXXX game?".
And the real answer is "The one you mix yourself".
Even if you had a can of the actual Williams paint, your playfield has faded in the last 30 years.
Even if you knew what the color mix was at the time, those colors were mixed by eye at the silkscreener, and thus varied from batch to batch.
Even if someone found a match "Blood Moon #666" for their XXXXX game, it would not match yours, because different games have seen different amounts of UV light.
Now many people have tried to mix their own paint and found it did not create the color they thought it would, or it just turned brown. That is because cheap paints don't have the pure pigments and binders that mix well with others.
Good quality paints mix beautifully, creating the results you expect.
Mix paint in a clear container that you can set on the playfield to match it up. Try to use natural light, not a yellow incandescent lamp. Use a flat container, so you are not looking down the neck of a bottle.
Women have much better color vision than men. Don't be afraid to ask your wife to match colors for you. It will involve her in your hobby and make her feel important that she has a skill you don't. Let her do the actual mixing, don't just ask if a sample is a match.

side question....

Where do you get your clear plastic paint mixing trays?

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#2936 2 years ago
Quoted from Jtslade:

Does anyone have any input on wet sanding pneumatically? I'd like to get a sander that works for clearing play fields.. Harbor Freight one would be nice.. any tips from you guys would be helpful.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/27#post-1986492

#2937 2 years ago
Quoted from Jtslade:

Where do you get your clear plastic paint mixing trays?

Those are just waste packaging from other products..

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#2938 2 years ago

Vid,
I am getting ready to try cleaning up a playfield. It is a Game Plan Sharpshooter. I have it torn down and am in the process of cleaning it then will put a light coat of clear before i start touching up. I don't have huge expectations but i do hope it turns out nicer than it is now and hope to learn from it. My question is about the rails. I know on a high end restore they are removed and usually replaced. My question is should i leave the rails on and clear them at the same time or should i not be lazy and remove them? Thanks

#2939 2 years ago

Take the rails off.

You will see the correct colors underneath, and it will let you sand the clear completely flat.

#2940 2 years ago

Remove the rails! it's gotta be 10-20 screws worth of work, and if you don't do it you'll end up spending A LOT more time working around them (it's not the lazy route or the quality route)

PS i'm not VID obviously but i couldn't help myself!

#2941 2 years ago

Not sure about Game Plan but Bally fired a lot of long staples in despite having lots of predrilled screw holes. So if it is stuck it can be staples or just glued down to the clear.

#2942 2 years ago

#2943 2 years ago

Thanks Vid and Brand,
I will remove them. They are stapled on, when i reinstall them would it be best to restaple them or drill for screws?

#2944 2 years ago
Quoted from indy5mike:

I will remove them. They are stapled on, when i reinstall them would it be best to restaple them or drill for screws?

Clamp them in place, and then drill pilot holes and screw.

#2945 2 years ago

How much of the playfield needs to be disassembled prior to spraying the clear? Does the underside need to be completely stripped?

#2946 2 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

How much of the playfield needs to be disassembled prior to spraying the clear? Does the underside need to be completely stripped?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/20#post-1788273

#2947 2 years ago

Vid1900

Sorry to ask so many questions and take the mystery out of every thing.. Where do you get your Norton Black Ice Sand paper from?

// I just picked up this drywall hand sander from Lowes last night... (pic attached).

Also any tips for tracking down sources of 2PAC? I am having a hard time here in South Florida... The Shop Line series seems to be difficult for me to get ahold of. Or any 2PAC for that matter.

Thank you , Danke!!!

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#2948 2 years ago
Quoted from Jtslade:

Also any tips for tracking down sources of 2PAC? I am having a hard time here in South Florida... The Shop Line series seems to be difficult for me to get ahold of. Or any 2PAC for that matter.

There are over 4000 sellers in the USA

Distributor locator:

http://us.ppgrefinish.com/PPG-Refinish/home.aspx?lang=en-us

PPG Omni is available at most O'Reilly Auto Parts Stores.

#2950 2 years ago

Vid, I am making good progress on restoring a Kings and Queens. I have sanded and repaired a nasty ball track in the upper playfield and coated with several coats of amber colored shellac. It looks pretty good. Still, I'm reticent to tackle the gouge mark above the left flipper here in this pic as it is adjacent to paint I'd like not to disturb. Any thoughts on this? I do plan to take the entire stripped playfield to a local auto body for CC.

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