Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration


By vid1900

5 years ago


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142 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 5436 posts in topic. You are on page 109 of 109.
#5401 14 days ago

I am about to airbrush a large amount of area on my #fast-draw playfield with createx sky-blue opaque after I apply the first coat of 2pac. There are small areas with bare wood , that have been covered with 2pac and sanded smooth . Since sky-blue seems to be not covering so effectively like red or blue , I am considering putting a light coat of white on all the area to be painted , before airbrushing the sky-blue. Is that a common technique , and also is white a good choice , or a light coat of grey is more suitable for colors that do not cover so effectively.

#5402 14 days ago

Lighter colors usually need a thin primer coat so the top color looks true.

Especially fluorescent colors, they always need a white undercoat.

#5403 14 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Lighter colors usually need a thin primer coat so the top color looks true.
Especially fluorescent colors, they always need a white undercoat.

So I guess I will go with a very light coat of white.

Thank you Vid .

#5404 12 days ago

Well,

After being away for a few weeks, I finally repopulated my Mini Pool PF.

Here's a pic......

Now to figure out where the short is! No PF lights, fuse blows immediately.

IMG_1679 (resized).jpg

#5405 12 days ago

DT, I have to say that it really came out nice. Best of luck on the electrical issue. Any chance you might bring it to Pintastic in MA this summer?

#5406 12 days ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

DT, I have to say that it really came out nice. Best of luck on the electrical issue. Any chance you might bring it to Pintastic in MA this summer?

Thanks.

I doubt it.

As far as the electric, I did solder a few light sockets while the game was apart. I guess I'll start by taking those out of the circuit first......off to a different thread for that!

#5407 12 days ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Well,
After being away for a few weeks, I finally repopulated my Mini Pool PF.
Here's a pic......
Now to figure out where the short is! No PF lights, fuse blows immediately.

Nice work!! Cant wait to see it lit up !
Mike

#5408 12 days ago

Anyone have any opinions on 1-Shot Lettering Enamels? I recently saw a post about using them for playfield touchups and something about a Tom Considine who does remarkable work with playfield artwork repair. I have never seen or heard of either. I may be too out of the loop I guess. Just curious.
Mike

#5409 12 days ago
Quoted from packie1:

Anyone have any opinions on 1-Shot Lettering Enamels? I recently saw a post about using them for playfield touchups and something about a Tom Considine who does remarkable work with playfield artwork repair. I have never seen or heard of either. I may be too out of the loop I guess. Just curious.
Mike

Super fast drying oil paint that stinks up the whole shop, make SURE you wear a chem-mask.

It even has a warning not to use it in a house.

#5410 12 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Super fast drying oil paint that stinks up the whole shop, make SURE you wear a chem-mask.
It even has a warning not to use it in a house.

Ok I got that but is it worth it to use? I have had great luck with the airbrush paints.

#5411 11 days ago
Quoted from packie1:

Nice work!! Cant wait to see it lit up !
Mike

Since you asked so nicely....Not fully lit, but no short either!

IMG_1690 (resized).jpg

#5412 11 days ago

Vid,
After having my own adventures with clearcoating a while back, I had great results but did NOT enjoy the process. (mostly the toxic fumes coupled with my asthma.) So Ive decided to get a local autobody shop to shoot my clear on my RCT. I know you recommend Omni 161 due at least in part to its user friendliness, but the guy at the body shop is saying its a "low end poor quality clear" and is recommending DuPont Cromax, though he will shoot whatever I want. Is there anything other than ease of use that makes omni 161 the superior choice for playfields? If done by a professional could a more difficult to work with clear produce superior results?

@droptarget That Mini Pool looks amazing! Great job! Target pool is my favorite wedgehead.

#5413 11 days ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Ive decided to get a local autobody shop to shoot my clear on my RCT. I know you recommend Omni 161 due at least in part to its user friendliness, but the guy at the body shop is saying its a "low end poor quality clear" and is recommending DuPont Cromax, though he will shoot whatever I want. Is there anything other than ease of use that makes omni 161 the superior choice for playfields? If done by a professional could a more difficult to work with clear produce superior results?

Let the guy use whatever he is familiar with.

If he shoots Cromax every day, he is going to be a master with it.

Remind him NOT to hang the playfield, but to shoot it laying on it's back - body guys always try to hang playfields, I don't know why.

#5414 11 days ago

Sounds good. Thanks again. I've already begun hammering home that it needs to be perfectly level. I'll make sure they know exactly what that means before I leave it with them.

#5415 10 days ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Vid,
After having my own adventures with clearcoating a while back, I had great results but did NOT enjoy the process. (mostly the toxic fumes coupled with my asthma.) So Ive decided to get a local autobody shop to shoot my clear on my RCT. I know you recommend Omni 161 due at least in part to its user friendliness, but the guy at the body shop is saying its a "low end poor quality clear" and is recommending DuPont Cromax, though he will shoot whatever I want. Is there anything other than ease of use that makes omni 161 the superior choice for playfields? If done by a professional could a more difficult to work with clear produce superior results?
droptarget That Mini Pool looks amazing! Great job! Target pool is my favorite wedgehead.

Thank you. I'm an add a ball guy, but I think Target Pool is the better version.

#5416 9 days ago

Hey Vid. Are you aware if decals can be made using Elements 15 instead of PhotoShop? I've been struggling for some time now with Elements but just can't seem to figure out how to make the decals. You've talked about using the channel function but Elements doesn't have that feature.

#5417 9 days ago

^ I only have Photoshop, so hopefully somebody will be an Elements expert and chime in.

#5418 9 days ago

Man, where do I buy one of those wheels? I need to regrain some large Gottlieb side rails and that would make short work of it!

#5419 9 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You can also use Stainless Welding Rod from HD or any welding shop.

Vid any techniques for bending smooth long curves with the welding rod? The small tight curves are simple enough, but for guides with a good curve?

#5420 9 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

^ I only have Photoshop, so hopefully somebody will be an Elements expert and chime in.

I've tried using Elements. It's not especially useful or intuitive - more for doctoring / filtering photos. Honestly, using MS Paint would be more useful for decals. And that's not saying much.

#5421 9 days ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Vid any techniques for bending smooth long curves with the welding rod? The small tight curves are simple enough, but for guides with a good curve?

Run it through a slip-roll, or draw it over the edge of the workbench

#5422 9 days ago

I have one of these from harbor fright that I had gotten for some other purpose, but it worked very well for making some large curved rails for my home brew.

https://www.harborfreight.com/gear-driven-ring-roller-36790.html

#5423 8 days ago

I shot my first coat of 2pac ( one light coat and a second full coat , 15 minutes apart ) and I am getting ready to paint/airbrush most of this #fast-draw playfield. I am a newbie so I was a bit reluctant with the spray gun and I guess my attempt in clear coating resulted in a not so heavy coat and orange peel.
After 24 hours and wet sanding with 400 grit , the playfield looks nice , but the small pits that were all over the place are still there. Maybe a little less prominent though. I will not get a good weather to attempt another coat , so would it be ok if I would go ahead and do my touch ups hoping that the second 2pac coating attempt will cover them ? or must I wait another 2 months for better weather to lay another coat and try to fill those pits ?

Thanks in advance everyone that helps people like me with no experience in playfield restoration and especially Vid that opened my eyes on that subject

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#5424 8 days ago
Quoted from phototamer:

, the playfield looks nice , but the small pits that were all over the place are still there. Maybe a little less prominent though. I will not get a good weather to attempt another coat , so would it be ok if I would go ahead and do my touch ups hoping that the second 2pac coating attempt will cover them ? or must I wait another 2 months for better weather to lay another coat and try to fill those pits ?

You can drip some 2pac into the pits, or just go ahead and paint.

The next coat of clear will fix it.

#5425 7 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You can drip some 2pac into the pits, or just go ahead and paint.
The next coat of clear will fix it.

I will go with the middle road then . Fill the major pits with a 2pac soaked toothpick , sand , and paint.

Thanks Vid !

#5426 7 days ago
Quoted from Pindufus:

Hey Vid. Are you aware if decals can be made using Elements 15 instead of PhotoShop? I've been struggling for some time now with Elements but just can't seem to figure out how to make the decals. You've talked about using the channel function but Elements doesn't have that feature.

You probably will have to go to Gimp if you want the features of Photoshop for free. I also use Photoshop so I haven't tried Gimp, but from what I understand it has all of the powerful features you will need. The interface may take some work to figure out though. Then again, Photoshop can be a bit of work as well when you are starting out with it. I get Photoshop paid for from work. If that day ends, I'll probably head for Gimp. I like free stuff.

https://www.gimp.org

#5427 7 days ago
Quoted from xsvtoys:

You probably will have to go to Gimp if you want the features of Photoshop for free. I also use Photoshop so I haven't tried Gimp, but from what I understand it has all of the powerful features you will need. The interface may take some work to figure out though. Then again, Photoshop can be a bit of work as well when you are starting out with it. I get Photoshop paid for from work. If that day ends, I'll probably head for Gimp. I like free stuff.
https://www.gimp.org

You can also try something like paint.net if you are on Windows. I have a hard time using GIMP. Inkscape, on the other hand, is good for vector work.

#5428 7 days ago

I have used gimp and inkscape for any art restoration that others have demonstrated on pinside using Photoshop or illustrator. its really an amazing product that is completely free.

#5429 6 days ago

If you are using a Mac, Pixelmator is the way to go.

#5430 5 days ago
Quoted from Langless28:

I have used gimp and inkscape for any art restoration that others have demonstrated on pinside using Photoshop or illustrator. its really an amazing product that is completely free.

Yes, between Gimp and Inkscape you can do what you need to do. Expect to spend time learning how to use them by following the tutorials. They are powerful tools and require training if you want to be proficient with them. Just like with any tool, you want to read the manual.

#5431 4 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The wood of the playfield rails is no longer sealed.
Dust and filth are in the wood itself.
I'd remove those rails, sand them down to clean wood, and seal with poly or lacquer
Lacquer is a good choice because you can tone the wood so it does not look too fresh.

Quoted from phototamer:

I use lacquer dry flakes dissolved in 96 percent alcohol, or IPA ( isopropyl alcohol ) (about 1 part flakes to 4 parts alcohol ) and get the desired tone by repeating passes of the mixture on the wood surface .

Rails removed - ready to sand and lacquer as you recommended...

Since this is my first time, can you recommend a sandpaper grit (sponge better?) as well as exact brand of lacquer? (product link?) Vid, do you use flakes or liquid? Is color the advantage to using flakes?

Also, do you leave metal rail or remove before sanding and lacquering? (It's riveted so would prefer to leave of course)

image (resized).jpeg

#5432 4 days ago
Quoted from spinal:

(It's riveted so would prefer to leave of course)

Pretty sure those are just little nails actually.

#5433 4 days ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

Pretty sure those are just little nails actually.

OK thanks - then should be easy to take off.

#5434 3 days ago

Sand with 120, then 150, then 220. Use a wooden block or one of those black rubber 3M sanding blocks to back up the paper so you sand the surfaces nice and flat without rolling the edges.

Lacquer isn't sold in flakes, that's shellac. Shellac has its place, but don't use it here.

Lacquer dries VERY fast, and it is VERY noxious. If you're going to use lacquer, do it outside on a warm day. Apply it with a sponge brush and chuck the brush when you're done (but don't use the crappy ones they sell at Home Depot. The ones at a proper paint store tend to be denser foam.)

That said, lacquer will give you a very shiny, very visible layer on top of the wood. On an older game, you may want to use something which builds more gradually. Wipe-on polyurethane is nearly impossible to screw up; you apply it with a foam brush or even a rag, and keep building up layers to until you like the look. You don't want to use too little, as it won't seal the wood. But it will give you good protection without looking like there's a plastic barrier between you and the wood.

Take the rail off. It's probably filthy under there.

#5435 3 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Lacquer isn't sold in flakes, that's shellac. Shellac has its place, but don't use it here.

My bad .. sometimes I mix up my words .
Shellac is not so durable and hard as lacquer , but I like the way the color deepens with repeating applications giving the desired tone , and the fact that is a natural product.

#5436 3 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

That said, lacquer will give you a very shiny, very visible layer on top of the wood. On an older game, you may want to use something which builds more gradually.

Sounds like lacquer on the rails might make it end up looking different from original.

Anyone know what Gottlieb put on rails originally (C37, 1977)?

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