Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration


By vid1900

5 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

142 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 6048 posts in this topic. You are on page 63 of 121.
#3101 2 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Was there mylar on these things? I wonder if there's a coating of glue on the whole PF or something.

There were patches of Mylar, but you can see the flakiness of some sort of non-glue coating on the Free Ride insert.

Quoted from EvanDickson:

Soaking with alcohol (95%) does not turn it white, but it does seem to break it down and make it fairly easy to rub off.

Excellent, then it's some kind of water based something or other.

Take your time, it looks like a big job.

#3103 2 years ago

Vid, Can I use 100% denatured alcohol instead of the 91% or higher isopropyl alcohol in all of the applications listed above when you used isopropyl?

#3104 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Lizard:

Vid, Can I use 100% denatured alcohol instead of the 91% or higher isopropyl alcohol in all of the applications listed above when you used isopropyl?

Only if you know what they added to the alcohol to "denature" it. There are many different poisons that could have been added.

Iso is clean, cheap and less toxic, so I'd just stick with that.

#3105 2 years ago

Vid: any experience with Liquitex or Spectratex paints? They are available locally for me.

#3106 2 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Vid: any experience with Liquitex or Spectratex paints? They are available locally for me.

Is the Liquitex thin enough to air brush without thinning?

I've got some of their paints, but they are thick and take a day to dry.

-

I've got a few bottles of Spectra-Tex, not too many opaque colors available from them at my DickBlick store, but the ones I have seem fine.

#3107 2 years ago

I am cleaning up my old 1963 Star Jet. I took off the pop bumpers and found that there is some sort of brown protective coating that has been laid down on the playfield presumably to protect it. Any idea what it is, and how to remove it without damaging the playfield paint?

You can see it in the images, the circular brown layer. The purple that is showing thru is the original playfield.

thanks

IMG_0411_(resized).JPG

IMG_0412_(resized).JPG

#3108 2 years ago
Quoted from Alan51:

I am cleaning up my old 1963 Star Jet. I took off the pop bumpers and found that there is some sort of brown protective coating that has been laid down on the playfield presumably to protect it. Any idea what it is, and how to remove it without damaging the playfield paint?

Whatever it is, it did not come from the factory.

WICO used to sell rings of woodgrain "contact paper" to put around worn pop bumper areas, so that would be my guess. They are made of vinyl and peel off much easier than Mylar, with a plastic razor blade.

Factory Starjet:

image-30_(resized).jpg

WICO pop bumper protectors:

remove_vinyl_(resized).jpg

#3109 2 years ago

Thanks Vid, that's what it looks like. I will try and carefully scrape it off with a razor blade.

#3110 2 years ago
Quoted from Alan51:

Thanks Vid, that's what it looks like. I will try and carefully scrape it off with a razor blade.

Try a plastic razor blade first.

Move in the same direction as the playfield wood grain.

#3111 2 years ago

It came off really easily. It was something like woodgrain mac-tac. Very little or no paint came off, but there is a bit of paint damage that was pre-existing, and probably why it was put on in the first place.

IMG_0414_(resized).JPG

#3112 2 years ago
Quoted from Alan51:

It came off really easily. It was something like woodgrain mac-tac. Very little or no paint came off, but there is a bit of paint damage that was pre-existing, and probably why it was put on in the first place.

IMG_0414_(resized).JPG

Looks pretty good.

You can put Mylar pop rings down now to protect the game.

Make sure you put a coat of wax down BEFORE the rings.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=303

#3113 2 years ago

Vid, any experience with this type of wax? Trying to find local stuff.

image_(resized).jpeg

#3114 2 years ago

Just want to say thanks to Vid for this guide.

I followed the sections I needed on my FH PF - must have read and re-read them a hundred times. The sanding and buffing parts were especially useful. Here is a pic after buffing with the swirl remover - still needs final polishing. Also, attached an image showing the reflection from my Mac onto the PF. Not perfect due to my lack of skills, but I am very happy with the result.

Thanks again Vid.

P.S...... yes, this is an overlay but I think it turned out OK.....

20160501_125438_(resized).jpg

20160501_125445_(resized).jpg

20160501_125929_(resized).jpg

#3115 2 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Vid, any experience with this type of wax? Trying to find local stuff.

Sorry, I've never heard of it.

#3116 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Is the Liquitex thin enough to air brush without thinning?
I've got some of their paints, but they are thick and take a day to dry.
-
I've got a few bottles of Spectra-Tex, not too many opaque colors available from them at my DickBlick store, but the ones I have seem fine.

I took pictures of the bottles. They say on them that they are all for airbrushing. Roughly the same price as what you recommended, but they are locally available.

IMG_0809_(resized).JPG

#3117 2 years ago

Has anyone done paint restore on a Getaway HSII pin? Trying to figure out what colors I need to buy to create the bright orange color (eg fine lines around most inserts) and the pale blue color (background color of the tachometer in center of table).

#3118 2 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

I took pictures of the bottles. They say on them that they are all for airbrushing. Roughly the same price as what you recommended, but they are locally available.

Those look REALLY old.

Old, separated airbrush paint is not your friend. It will clog your gun; tripling the amount of work to clean the gun, strain the paint, stir up the clumps.....

I'd probably order a set from TCP or DickBlick - someplace that has a huge inventory turnover.

#3119 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Has anyone done paint restore on a Getaway HSII pin? Trying to figure out what colors I need to buy to create the bright orange color (eg fine lines around most inserts) and the pale blue color (background color of the tachometer in center of table).

No one can tell you "what" paint color to buy, because your playfield may have faded more than theirs.

Get the Createx Opaque kit, get the Florescent kit, and mix up the proper colors.

Jacquard "Bright Orange" is pretty good start for some Williams games. It's the **missing color** from Createx's line.

http://www.dickblick.com/products/jacquard-airbrush-paints/

#3120 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

No one can tell you "what" paint color to buy, because your playfield may have faded more than theirs.
Get the Createx Opaque kit, get the Florescent kit, and mix up the proper colors.
Jacquard "Bright Orange" is pretty good start for some Williams games. It's the **missing color** from Createx's line.
http://www.dickblick.com/products/jacquard-airbrush-paints/

Thanks for the feedback. As a point of clarification, I was asking which combination of colors I needed in order to mix to the orange and blue I am needing. Not sure if certain base colors allow me to more easily hit the targets I am looking for. Also, was hoping to learn from anyone with my exact pin. Your forum is incredibly educational, and I am looking forward to giving your recommendations a try.

#3121 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thanks for the feedback. As a point of clarification, I was asking which combination of colors I needed in order to mix to the orange and blue I am needing. Not sure if certain base colors allow me to more easily hit the targets I am looking for. Also, was hoping to learn from anyone with my exact pin. Your forum is incredibly educational, and I am looking forward to giving your recommendations a try.

I'd get the sky blue, then add navy blue drops until you find your match.

Same with your orange, add drops until you get your match....

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#3122 2 years ago

Quick question, is there any "standard" as to how high you install the metal wireform lane guides back in the playfield.

#3123 2 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

Quick question, is there any "standard" as to how high you install the metal wireform lane guides back in the playfield.

The center of the ball should align with the rail of the wire frame.

There are a few exceptions, but that covers 98% of them.

#3124 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The center of the ball should align with the rail of the wire frame.
There are a few exceptions, but that covers 98% of them.

thanks vid, you're awesome. I knew I could get the right answer here.

#3125 2 years ago

Vid, from a theoretical standpoint on pricing: say I sent you my Firepower play field, which has minimal wear, and all I wanted was new inserts with decals, leveled, and the play field cleared to seal in all of the original graphics, how much would something like that go for?

#3126 2 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Vid, from a theoretical standpoint on pricing: say I sent you my Firepower play field, which has minimal wear, and all I wanted was new inserts with decals, leveled, and the play field cleared to seal in all of the original graphics, how much would something like that go for?

$700 give or take, depending on how bad the playfield was.

#3127 2 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Vid, any experience with this type of wax? Trying to find local stuff.

One of the highest rated brands of detail products on the market. I detail cars professionally and use their entire line of products. I use it on all of my machine's

#3128 2 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

One of the highest rated brands of detail products on the market. I detail cars professionally and use their entire line of products. I use it on all of my machine's

Thank you! I'm going to pick some up tonight.

#3129 2 years ago

Hi, Vid

I'm nearly done disassembling my Flash playfield and need some guidance.

1. I want to remove the top-mounted flipper screws, fill the holes with Bondo, sand it flat and install new flipper assemblies like you recommend, but what's the best way to remove the screws? I can't get them to move from the underside and there's no screwdriver slot on the top.

2. The same system was used on the pop bumpers. Should I remove these screws or just leave them in, and fill the divots with 2PAC?

P5070048_(resized).JPG

P5070050_(resized).JPG

#3130 2 years ago
Quoted from TopMoose:

I want to remove the top-mounted flipper screws, fill the holes with Bondo, sand it flat and install new flipper assemblies like you recommend, but what's the best way to remove the screws? I can't get them to move from the underside and there's no screwdriver slot on the top.

There are 2 "fins" that keep the screws from simply unscrewing, so even if there was a drive slot, they would not unscrew.

Gently tap them out from the backside with a hammer.

237-5883-00_(resized).jpg

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=240

#3131 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

There are 2 "fins" that keep the screws from simply unscrewing, so even if there was a drive slot, they would not unscrew.
Gently tap them out from the backside with a hammer.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=240

Thanks! How about the pop bumper screws? if I take them out and fill the holes, I won't be able to mount the pop coil brackets in the same place - the new screws will go into the Bondo, rather than the wood. What do you suggest?

#3132 2 years ago
Quoted from TopMoose:

Thanks! How about the pop bumper screws? if I take them out and fill the holes, I won't be able to mount the pop coil brackets in the same place - the new screws will go into the Bondo, rather than the wood. What do you suggest?

Don't fill the holes for the pop bumper screws, you need them to put the pop bumpers back in.

#3133 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Don't fill the holes for the pop bumper screws, you need them to put the pop bumpers back in.

So leave the screws in and clear over them?

#3134 2 years ago
Quoted from TopMoose:

So leave the screws in and clear over them?

Probably safer to remove them, and then install new ones after clearing.

You have to be really careful to leave them in and clear over them, it looks great, but not for everyone....

#3135 2 years ago

I'm getting a pretty good condition spare Fireower play field to restore, so I can take my time. Since it's a spare, most items are off it already and I'll be taking off whatever is left. I will photograph my current one to use as a template. As far as screw holes, your drill bit method looks awesome...is it also possible to get a thin, round metal file in there to achieve the same effect? The two pics I have of the field I'm getting are here:

image_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).jpeg

#3136 2 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

As far as screw holes, your drill bit method looks awesome...is it also possible to get a thin, round metal file in there to achieve the same effect?

Drill is a lot faster than a file.

#3137 2 years ago

Point well taken, may need multiple bit sizes I suppose. I must say, I am encouraged by all of your work here, thank you!

#3138 2 years ago

So Vid, I've been reading your guide, and I think I have the order of what I need to do things in for my Firepower. Correct me if I'm wrong:

1. Strip play field of everything and clean over with naphtha.
2. Use magic eraser and 91% isopropyl to remove the 1980s Williams clear coat.
3. Fill in divits and other areas with bonds and sand.
4. Remove/repair inserts. Lower proud inserts, and use 2PAC to fill the bowed ones. Sand to the level of the table.
5. Lightly sand the play field to give tooth to upcoming layers.
6. Rub all over with tack cloth.
7. Spray light coating of 2PAC
8. Make the updates with Createx colors, install waterslide decals. Check all look good with Naphtha.
9. Install star roll over protectors for overspray.
10. Coat with 2 or 3 coats of 2PAC, sanding in between
11. Enjoy your work.

#3139 2 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

3. Fill in divits and other areas with bonds and sand.

Yes, but only if the paint is worn off.

If it's just a dent, with paint intact, just fill the divot with 2PAC.

Quoted from La_Porta:

4. Remove/repair inserts. .

Only remove inserts if you MUST. Make sure you have replacements IN HAND before removing any of them. Some inserts are simply not available anywhere, and if you break one removing it.......

Quoted from La_Porta:

use 2PAC to fill the bowed ones. Sand to the level of the table.

You don't have to get too crazy sanding completely flush. When you spray your first clear, things tend to even out.

#3140 2 years ago

Dear Vid,

Where the hell do you buy a giant horse syringe to inject clearcoat under ghosting inserts as illustrated earlier in this thread? I think you and I are pretty local to each other, and I don't know of any Walgreen's where you can just pick up a huge mamma jamma syringe for use with clear coat. Please advise.

Sincerely,
Lonely in Jersey.

#3141 2 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Where the hell do you buy a giant horse syringe

I get them at Tractor Supply Company (http://www.tractorsupply.com/), looks like the closest one to you is in Flanders NJ. I buy them there and use them without the needle for caulking.

#3142 2 years ago

What can I do here to fix the clearcoat and/or to stop it from getting worse?

CIMG4364_(resized).JPG

#3143 2 years ago
Quoted from WakiMiko:

What can I do here to fix the clearcoat and/or to stop it from getting worse?

Try to clean up that crappy Sharpie marker with 94% alcohol.

Repaint white.

Mask off and repaint black keyline.

Scuff up surrounding wood for tooth and repair chip with 2PAC.

#3144 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Try to clean up that crappy Sharpie marker with 94% alcohol.
Repaint white.
Mask off and repaint black keyline.
Scuff up surrounding wood for tooth and repair chip with 2PAC.

Again, Vid stumps me. What's 2PAC? (And save the inevitable jokes, please. )

#3145 2 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Again, Vid stumps me. What's 2PAC? (And save the inevitable jokes, please. )

Here's a photo, but not sure how he can help at this point.

Actually, now that I think about it, Vid is most likely referring to 2 Part Auto Clear: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration?tq=2pac&tu#post-1669058

TupacShakurPA210311_(resized).jpg

#3146 2 years ago

Whenever I spray Pac, I listen to Pac

#3147 2 years ago

You beat me to posting the pic. Been thinking of it for a few days.

#3148 2 years ago

Not this:

fake_gangster_(resized).png

#3149 2 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Again, Vid stumps me. What's 2PAC? (And save the inevitable jokes, please. )

In case you were not aware, you have the ability to search on terms within a given forum topic. Just scroll to the top of any forum page and you'll see a section called "Find posts in this topic". From here you can search by term or by poster within the current topic only. I've found this to be quite helpful.

Sure beats combing through hundreds of pages and thousands of posts to find what you are looking for.

#3150 2 years ago

Here's another 2PAC.

gallery_4_8_68192_(resized).png

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