(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club

By goren1818

7 years ago


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23 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #1 Welcome to the club Posted by goren1818 (7 years ago)

Post #14 Game play video. Posted by solarvalue (7 years ago)

Post #800 What happens if you don't cut mylar off magnet core posts Posted by crwjumper (6 years ago)

Post #805 Cut mylar off magnet posts at drones and theatre Posted by cooked71 (6 years ago)

Post #1026 Ball adjustment for tilt Posted by PinMonk (6 years ago)

Post #1079 Adjustment for flipper that feels "clunky" Posted by spida1a (6 years ago)

Post #1128 Left inlane post does NOT need a rubber sleeve! Posted by Mageek (6 years ago)

Post #1151 Adjusting the kickback Posted by pinstadium (6 years ago)

Post #1246 Another ball trap location Posted by Vyzer2 (6 years ago)


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#4905 5 years ago

Does anybody know when to expect the new firmware? I am looking forward especially for the sim cards to be available during chaos...

Besides this I am happy with the current firmware, a little bit more animations would be nice, but not mandatory. Also I do not expect to see the new theatre multiball very soon

In general my DI is playing very nice, but I have a few issues coming up all the time:
- drone motors break - I have a defect motor almost every week... No airballs, just motors quitting their job.
- metal flap of the BOB trapdoor breaking. This happened two times, now. I guess its because of the playfield protector. But even with the little higher playfield, the flap should not break...

After changing the balls from the originals to high gloss low magnetic ones, the game is much faster and also the already fixed problems with the right loop and ramp (ball jumping and getting blocked in loop and ball jumping over the switch and not being counted at ramp) occurs again. I guess I need to reduce the flipper power a little, but to be honest I would like to stay with the defaults...

#4909 5 years ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

You don't? Why is that? This was the one thing I was looking forward to the most.

Just because I cannot remember one game in which I played all theater modes. So I do not expect to access the multiball very soon...

The animations would be nice, sure. And maybe there are other enhancements that make sense, like points for special things like jackpots, but the one thing I currently really hate, is when I have some SIM cards ready and several would be collected during chaos and are just ignored.

#4911 5 years ago

Hm. This was my first impression when I saw the new flowchart, as the QTM is after all four TMs are flowing back in one line. But now, after you question this, I agree. It does not say ... start all TMs like ..start 6 (all) disaster modes for Chaos (Armageddon). So most likely I was wrong and the QTM starts after every TM that is mastered.

In this case I look forward to the new multiball, as it makes it far more attractive to play and focus the TMs.

Thanks!

#4936 5 years ago

I had the problem with the drone motors a lot in the past. Almost every week or so one of the drones stopped working. The same problem like described before: motors not spinning, LEDs blinking. Moving the rotors a bit, made it work again for a short time.

The motors are cheap china motors normally build into real drones (cheerson cx 10a ??). They are not build to do a lot of start/stop action, but to stay turning during flight. The sliders between stator and rotor are cheap and week. So they are likely to lose contact in special positions.

After exchanging the drones some times, I ordered these motors (you can get them on ebay for a few cents - "CX-10-005"). Just identify the broken motor by moving one after the other until it works again and replace the one. You can do this in a few minutes.

#4939 5 years ago

the four motors are in one circuit. they work to divide the input voltage of ca. 14 Volt to 3.5 Volts per Motor. (Each motor is specified for 4.5 Volts). So if one motor is broken, the circuit is open and all motors will stop. If you move the one broken motor a bit, the circuit closes again and all motors run. My experience is, that a broken motor will stop in this position, where the slider is not closing the circuit.

#4951 5 years ago
Quoted from kharri:

Which motors did you order for a few cents? I see these $35 for 124
ebay.com link » Wholesale Engines Motor Parts For Cx 10 Fq777 124 Pocket Drone Cx 10 Cx 10a V646

Nice. If I had found this offer, I would have ordered it. But here in Germany I found only smaller offers and had to order several times. Like this one:
ebay.com link: 1 Paar Fur Cheerson CX 10 CX 10A RC Quadcopter Ersatzteile Motors CX 10 005 NEU

3 weeks later
#5170 5 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Oh you just meant in general - yes I believe it’s when lock is lit. Just makes the game harder I guess

Sometimes it also tries to help: i.e. during Acid Rain it helps to hit the jets by playing the more easy to manage left ramp...

3 weeks later
#5325 5 years ago

I would say this is part of the game. Each and every shot is only worth a lot in the right moment. I.e. the subway shot is worth nothing until a sim card is lit. But if you earn a sim card with it, it is one of the most valuable shot. Same with the multiball. It is worth allmost nothing (but fun to reach for newbies), unless you have a suitable mode started or a lot of sim cards to collect. So it is part of the strategy to start the multiball at the right time. I think this is a nice concept compared to other games where the mutliball is giving high points no matter what you prepared. I really like this concept as it adds a strategic value to it.

BUT... I agree that the forces multiballs can be annoying. Of course this can be considered as part of the risk - I cannot avoid the multiball as long as I want if I drain a ball while a multiball is waiting. I also should wait with the locking of the balls until I have sim cards stacked to avoid it start with the next mode. So it is kind of oppisite to other games, where I try to lock balls as soon as possible to start as many mutliballs as I can to get high points, because I have to avoid the locking as long as I think I can stack more value to the multiball and make sure I am not forced into a worthless multiball.

So in the end I am not totally happy with the way it is, now, but I can imagine that a free choice of delaying / starting a multiball would make it very boring.

1 week later
#5393 5 years ago

Reg. the SW update: I would like to see always what a mystery delivery award I got. Everytime something else is on the theater screen it just don’t show the award...

2 weeks later
#5565 5 years ago

sometimes it is nice to be in a different time zone

#5612 5 years ago

was anybody already able to check out the new code at expo? Or been able to talk to the JJP team and get any new infos?

I am really looking forward for the update. I thought somebody told a release would be possible by end of this week (Thursday or Friday) but now I see Expo is running until sunday... ;(

#5638 5 years ago

I just followed the instructions to add some extra light to the backbox by installing additional LED stripes. This worked perfectly and looks great. Only the camera seems to be also more present due to the hole being lighted as well. Maybe I need to add something around the camera to avoid light to get there...

But: it feels like the additional lightning also changed the hole game. All coils feel like they lost power. Is the GI of the backbox somehow connected to the coil power? Does the additional power consumption of the additional LEDs (even if it's small) pull power from the coils? I cannot really believe it, but without a detailed circuit plan it is difficult to find out.

My impression is, every coil seems a little weak, but you can really say the upper right flipper changed definetly. I had to adjust the strength up by 1 to make it feel the same to shoot the left ramp. Also the kickout from the trough needed an adjustment to serve the shooter lane as before.

Does someone else had the same results after adding LEDs to the backbox?

Thanks,
Lars

#5642 5 years ago

after additional testing I believe the change was only in my mind. Turning the LEDs off and on (it is only one plug) did not change anything. So it was just a wrong feeling...

Thank you very much,
lars

#5667 5 years ago

Expo is over, right? Did anybody hear anything if the code was successfully tested there, or if any bigger bugs were detected? I hope the code went through the testings without any bigger issues and will be released very soon

#5708 5 years ago

Nevertheless it is also very motivating. Hard, but fair...

And my feeling is, the code update will make it even more motivating. I.e. the new way the electrical guy is moved during ball drops from the theater will eliminate frustrating sdtm drains.

I am still hoping for an update for the weekend (hope never dies). But also an update early next week would be fine, as there is a public holiday in Germany next Thursday so a lot of time to update and play during the week.

#5764 5 years ago

The items like TAF fester‘s chair are available during bob‘s drones gone wild multi ball. If you hit the drone target one of those items appear in the theater and may be collected. I think the chair is also one of the examples in the manual.

#5816 5 years ago

Is there a way to reset / delete highscores without loosing the Grand Champion? I was not able to find this festure, but as it was already available in 90s WPC games, I cannot imagine it is not available in DI!

Thanks and kind regards
Lars

#5827 5 years ago

very cool. Hope to get there, soon.

I remember this situation with Armageddon. Had it two times ready without being able to make the phone shot to get it... The third time I got it - the first and only time - up to now...

One question: which version do you have installed? I see the announcement "Last ball" cannot remember to see this in my game (v1.52) it always says ball 3/3 for the last ball...

Cheers,
Lars

#5829 5 years ago

thanks, Marvin!

#5846 5 years ago

Is it the orbit or the ramp that’s not registering? I had a problem with the ramp, as a fast ball would jump over the switch on the wire ramp. Bending the metal plate before the wire a bit up or down might help or just adjust the switch to register higher balls as well.

#5848 5 years ago

Not sure which opto you are talking about. Right orbit has switch 52 as a rollover for right orbit enter and as a second switch the train two ramp made switch 47. switch 47 is the one i am talking about witch was not always registered at fast balls in my game. The ball was flying over the leaf. Bending it up helped and now even very fast balls sre registered.

#5854 5 years ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Ahh brain fade. I adjusted switch 47 now it registers every hit. Thanks!

Happy I was able to help (even if my description typed via mobile is hard to understand ). I remember how annoying it was when the right orbit / ramp was not registered. imho everything must work 100% to make sure the game is fun.

Lars

15
#5860 5 years ago

the drones are available (banggood, ebay, etc.) just search for "cheerson cx-10a". BUT: the circuit board inside is completely different. So you can only use spare parts as the plastics etc. or fly the drone you know from inside your pinball machine.

Normaly only the motors wear out. So no need to replace the whole drone. The spare motors can also be found in ebay for small money. Search for "CX-10-005" or just "cheerson cx-10a motor".

If you need to replace a motor, check first which one is broken. As the motors are in sequence, if one is broken, all four stop working. Moving the blades one after the other while running in test mode makes it easy to identify the broken motor.

#5869 5 years ago

I would like to repeat my question:

Is there a known way to reset highscores (at least manually delete the daily highscores) without loosing the Grand Champion?

#5884 5 years ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

I don't have a firm release date yet. I'm aiming to have new code posted early next week. I'm still waiting on a few items.
--Ted

Hi Ted,

do you have any updates on the release plan?

Thanks,
Lars

#5888 5 years ago

I had drones failing almost every week since I bought the machine in March 2018. The first few I was replacing with new drones, but at some point I startet to just exchange the motors by myself, as it was too much effort to order replacement drones and also replacing a drone is more effort than replacing a motor...

Nevertheless: I replaced more then 25 motors in this timeframe...

Questions are:
- is this just a problem of the motors itself? did I just get a bad charge?
- is this a problem of the drones circuits?
- is this a problem of the power driver board?

I think the small motors are not made for the lot of on/off sequences with full power and just wear off. But it seems odd that some do not have a single motor failing during thousands of games while others have broken motors almost every 50 games or so.

During the last few weeks I had only one motor failing, so maybe it is really just motor related. Nevertheless I think a smaller voltage for the motors means less hard usage during off/on cycle as well as less speed and therefore less wearing. As the drones are powered by unrated 12V (in my case slightly above 14 Volt) this might be the difference.

Could someone who's drones are not breaking at all measure the peak voltage during drone test, please?

To check this, I added a resistor in one of my drones motor circuit (I know this is not the best way, as the voltage drop is changing due to different resistiance of the motors, maybe a Z-Diode would make more sense here - but for a first check this should do the trick...). Up to now the drone did not fail anymore, but neither did the others without the resistor...

#5891 5 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Just got my dialed in and the shooter rod hits the auto launcher what should I be adjusting to fix this?

You should try to adjust the shooter rod. Open the screws and set it to a good position in the cabinet and tighten the screws again. Be careful not to damage the decals.

If this is not enough, you can also bend the auto launcher a bit.

#5892 5 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

maybe try adding a resistor inline to see if reduced voltage saves they motor

This is what I did in one of the drones (see last paragraph)...

#5912 5 years ago

Public holiday in Germany and no new code to play with . Still hoping for the rest of the day

#5916 5 years ago

Ha!

The Game!!!

2nd time Armageddon, 1st time Showdown. Showdown won! Really nice. I did not spoil the fun and had not watched any videos before, so this was really amazing!

Crazy!!!

#5922 5 years ago

Yes. The new animations were announced.

#5924 5 years ago

That’s what they said!

#6125 5 years ago

I had the plastic installed. Nevertheless some rebounds and no smooth drops. I had some insulation material on the wireframe before, but now I installed a wire like bigd1979, which works really great!

#6138 5 years ago
Quoted from artiShock:

Yesterday I had the following problem:
During a game all three displays went black (however showing the blue VGA info for a few seconds).
I continued to play for a couple of minutes, but the displays kept black. Gameplay seemed to be normal.
After a restart everything seemed to be o.k. again.
Did anyone accounter such behaviour before? I hope that this is not the first sign of recurring problems.
(I have the V 1.56 - beta installed.)

please post this in the google group as feedback for the beta.

#6214 5 years ago

Hi all,

where does the ball go in your machine, when dropped from the theater magnet without qed fetching it?

I had the pinball levelled perfectly, but the ball went sdtm most of the time, if qed was not in the way. As it was a little bit closer to the left flipper finger, I tilted the whole machine a little bit to the left (0.1°). Now it is hitting the very tip of the left finger most of the time.

But in some posts and some videos I saw the ball dropping to the right flipper finger's tip. So what is your machine setup?

Does anybody know, how it should be? What was Pat's intention?

Thanks,
Lars

#6218 5 years ago

I really like the level of difficulty of DI!.

Every player can reach at least something and something new after a few games.
More experienced players reach even more, like Chaos and are awarded with a regular extra ball etc.
Really good players used to the game reach Chaos regularly and come close to Armageddon often, but still starting Armageddon does not become standard.
Showdown is a really high goal which keeps the game challenging even for really advanced players...

I did not see another pinball machine that mixes interesting challenges for all level of players. Besides the goals to reach DI! does the same with rules. Ease rules, not too much to know to have fun, no long explanation necessary for the first plays. But if you dive deeper into the ruleset, it opens a lot of new opportunities, especially with the new code.

Most other machines are either flat and easy for the advanced player or difficult to understand for the beginner...
Either being beaten after a few days or weeks or giving the impression you will never reach the final wizard mode...

What do you think about this? Which other pinball machine is so adaptive to the players skillset?

#6223 5 years ago

correct, you cannot earn one, but you can collect the cards already earned. I think this makes sense:

BOB multiballs have a goal. If you reach it, you earn a SIM card as an achievement.

UA, Chaos and Theatre multiballs have no such goal. But they can be stacked and can give a lot of points as well as help earning and collecting SIM cards. Imho a fair deal.

1 week later
#6306 5 years ago

exactly. Start with a full install of 1.50 and afterwards install the delta update for 1.57

2 weeks later
#6462 5 years ago

In dark surrounding the pictures taken are sometimes very bad quality on my LE. How is your experience with the flasher on the SE? Is it possible to add a flasher to LE as well?

#6470 5 years ago

For me it is really the upper right flipper. 3 out of 10 times I make it. So playing left orbit or theater and using the upper right flipper... I had the feeling, 50% will be possible, if I continue training, but 3 out of 10 already feels great - and took only 9 month of training...

1 month later
#6928 5 years ago

If you add the resistor in line with a motor, the LEDs continue working. If you adjust the power to the whole drine, they might turn off.

#6929 5 years ago

I tried 50 Ohm and 100 Ohm. Both work great and since that no motor failing anymore!

#6936 5 years ago
Quoted from flx:

good to know!
hmm, that username somehow looks familiar, I assume you must be the guy from the german forums?! thanks again for your input regarding the drones!

Yep, that's me...

I saw others have resistors in the power supply wires that feed the drones. This made the motors much more durable, but the lower voltage turned off the LEDs. So I examined the drones itself. As the motors and LEDs are in two different circuits you can just add the resistor in the motor circuit without changing the voltage of the LED circuit. Only the motors will be affected. This worked perfectly for my drones.

Before I had motors dying all the time. One or two motors a week. After I added the resistors, no motor died for several months. So this is my suggestion for everybody having problems with the drone motors.

50 - 100 Ohm are working great. The 1/4w resistor can fit in the drone under the plastic as you showed in your picture. just cut off a little of the plastic where the screw sits and let this one screw out.

Regards,
Lars

#6941 5 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Just to be clear....since I don't really care about the LEDs either way (too small too see while playing), does putting the resistor in the power supply line make the motors more durable than placing the resistor in the motor line in the drone?
I ask because....it still seems like it would be quite a bit easier to add the resistor to the power supply line than getting it situated correctly in the drone. I know placing it in the drone can be done no problem but.....power supply line still seems easier. If it also makes the drone motors last longer it would be no brainer for me to place in power supply line.
Also...I assume 50ohm makes the drone motors spin slower than the 100ohm? (I could be wrong..maybe that's reversed?).
I do like hearing the drone motors run so you have that audio cue that they turned on, plus the drones turning on in sequence when you do the "light drone" in lane is cool. So....turning down the speed enough to make the motors last but still enough to be heard would be optimal.

the higher the resistor value, the lower the rpm of the motors will be (as the resistor "takes" more voltage off the motors). The wire without the resistor has 0 ohm (almost), a too high ohm value will prevent the motors from spinning at all. At 50 Ohms you can hardly hear the motors. But try by yourself... Maybe 10 Ohm are enough to save the motors... I just tried only 50 and 100 Ohm, both working fine.

Placing the resistor in the power supply line looks easier. But I did not want to cut a wire, so for me the resistor inside of the drone is more convenient.

If you have the resistor in the supply line, all electrics of the drone get less power. So there might be higher collateral. One example is the LEDs not working any more, as the voltage drops too low to light them up. I do not know, if anything else might stop working, I do not expect it, as the drones are quite simple. Nevertheless, I like the LEDs to light up, too.

The resistor in the motor circuit has really only impact on the motors. So this is my solution and I would not recommend anything else...

#6943 5 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

No other game in my collection draws me in as much as DI. CIQC and Theater MB modes are insane. Sound/lighting/callouts....nothing compares.

Normally I am a 90s guy. I like the DMD B/W games the most... But DI! is the one in my collection just breaking this rule!
DI! is turned on whenever I am in my game room. All others are played some games, then I end up playing DI! again and again...

3 weeks later
#7194 5 years ago
Quoted from branlon8:

when you have two sim cards qualified it seems still only one dialed in letter is flashing. I think it would be useful to have multiple dialed in letters flashing if you have multiple sim cards qualified. When you get one, then one light turns solid.

This is introduced by v1.60 / v1.61.

Imho the only upside of this version.

For anything else I would go with v1.57. Which is the most solid version without any other downside.

#7219 5 years ago
Quoted from AFM95:

(Credit to wjxxxx for bringing this up)
thelaw and everyone else - I would love to see everyone else's "Subway" success stats. If you're willing, please post a picture of your "Subway" stats below.
Audits > Game Audits > Playfield Audits (scroll way down) > Subway
I'm currently sitting at 1.43 per game; or as it shows - 143% (Subway successes/# of games played)[quoted image]

allmost 3 per game...

IMG_8759 (resized).pngIMG_8759 (resized).png
#7224 5 years ago
Quoted from AFM95:

You're a boss! Very impressive! Also, thank you for sharing.

I guess my personal value is even higher, I have some friends coming over and play with me, who are not very experienced players, so the average is pulled down somehow. I would say an average of 4 or 5 subways per game should be reachable for a good player, even a pro would max it out...

#7225 5 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

OK...got 9 drone motors switched out (old ones that were probably on the brink of death), and added a resistor to each drone.
I added the resistor to the power line (so...not in the drone itself) which was much easier.
I first added a 75Ω resistor, which was fairly quiet when I tested it with the glass off, though leds didn't work. Then I tried 50Ω which the LEDs kind of worked (sometimes fully flashed sometimes dimly), and a bit louder.
However...I wish I added 100+Ω resistors. Once the game was on and glass on, the drones were silent when operating. So I should have just put in the larger resistor since I wasn't going to hear them anyway.
Hopefully....these drone motors will last a long time now! If they fail again, I might just buy new drones since these aren't the most robust machines so constantly messing around with them stuff just keeps slightly twisting/breaking on them.

As said before: the resistor inside of the drone is my way to go, as the LEDs stay working without any problems. Even with higher ohm value, to protect the motors even better.

By the way: I did not have any motor dying, since I added the resistors to my drones. So this seems to be a very reliable and long lasting solution.

#7284 5 years ago

I think I remember a setting to choose the award for special. If set to credit in combination with free play it would be useless... set it to extra ball and you get a valuable award...

#7286 5 years ago

there are multiple strategies to get a million plus.

Still my favorite: go for modes. Win the modes and get the sim card. Avoid to lock the ball after the first mode and try to get delay the multiball as long as possible start it during a hard mode while allready some sim cards collected. A SIM card is worth 100k. A mode with SIM card mutliplier is worth some 100ks. So a millian is easy to reach after one or two SIMs collected.

1 month later
#7534 5 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

I totally forgot if I read somewhere if someone has/hasn't solved this ball trap behind the phone. Did someone come up with a solution? It seems like a post would have to be screwed on at the location I'm pointing at?
[quoted image]

I have a fix for this:

Just take the plastic protecting the phone and blocking the ball out, heat it up with a hairdryer and bend it so far on this side, that the ball is able to fall into the right loop lane.

This is a solution without any real changing of the game and makes a reliable solution.

Regards,
Lars

PS: I think I have described this some time ago and documented it in an old post here with pictures... If you cannot find it, I will try to make pictures later on...

3 months later
#8318 4 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

also beta-tester...
but different as you, still got the video/sound not being sync (acid rain being the most)
and to be honest, not sure about the coils power (edit : finally i can say not perfect, i do see some diff with ejected balls from the phone)

Ahhh... the random coils power... I hate this behaviour in versions > 1.57! I hoped this would be fixed first, as it is really disgusting imho. The phone kick-out and the theatre magnet are most obvious...

I still hope they get it fixed for the final 1.7 or at least continue working on it for a next update. It was no problem before, so it should be fixable, right?

Anybody from JJP here to comment this? Is this a reproducible problem you are working on?

Thank you very much,
Lars

#8325 4 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

again, i think i can reply on this without breaking some "secrets"
infos i get from the coders team, they are still working on sound/video desync (...), that should mean another update (!?), and going further in the supposition, may be the coils power will be include too...
and to reply to some others, about the BOB targets not "cycling" (which i was also hopping to have), i get an explanation on this, but here i let Joe/Ted talk if they want

Thanks RipleYYY! Any improvement to a reliable coil power is highly appreciated. But I would also wait a few more days to get a version with a perfect fix. It was perfect before, so it should be possible to find the change that introduced the randomness... Nevertheless, I do develop sw by myself and know how tricky this can be, especially as I know other DI! machines that do not show the random power... It would be great to get some information in the end, what caused the problems and how it was fixed...

Thanks,
Lars

#8337 4 years ago

installed the update without any issues. Seems to be working as expected and during my first run the coil power seems at least to be much more reliable and steady. Also the theatre magnet, even if I need to adjust the delay a little ...

Thanks JJP for this update!

#8348 4 years ago

Unfortunately the coils strength are still random at my place. The first run after the update to 1.71 everything looked great. Coils were reliable and strong all the time. After turning the machine off and a few hours later on again, the coils and magnets do the random stuff again. Theatre magnet not throwing the ball up when expected and especially the phone scoop kick out is sometimes weak again.

Does anybody know if the coders are still working on this issue? This is really a pitty, it is very constant power with older code versions and even 80s and 90s games were able to kick out balls of scoops in a predictable way... This is the only thing I do not like right now, it is the weak spot of this great pinball...

Thanks,
Lars

#8358 4 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

strange as this seems to not touch every DI !? mine is doing as yours
and about the phone scoop, my son is feeling just as you :/ to me i can deal with it, but i understand of course

Yeah. Exactly. You said you have some contact with the coders. Could you ask if they can reproduce it on one of their machines? Are they working on it?

If I remember right, this problem was introduced with the 1.60 update, which also updated the foundation (drivers etc.) for newer mainboards. So maybe there is something wrong in this part and not working correctly with some mainboards / chipsets / etc. So maybe it would be worth to compare our DI!s with some of the DI!s without these problems...

Once we know what makes the difference, it might also help the developers to fix it...

Thanks,
Lars

#8373 4 years ago
Quoted from Insanity199:

Not coincidence. Going back to 1.5x code resolves the problem.
To be clear, this is very intermittent and minor. Anyone that walked up to the machine to play would not notice. However, I am very particular and notice the slightest changes. After a year or so on previous code, I can tell the subtle difference and inconsistency. I would bet most have the same “issue” and don’t even notice. No biggie, it still plays great but something is definitely different in a very minor way that may only agitate the highly critical people.

Totally agreed! Nobody of my friends visiting notices this. But if you regularly play the machine and know the exact and consistent behaviour of earlier code (and all other pinball machines) it is very obvious. The inconsistency is most likely with all coils and magnets, but really good to see at the phone scoop and the theatre magnet (and skill shot kick-out) as here you have no other variables that could cause the differences.

I created a thread in the jjp google group, but did not get any reply. I also mailed to Ted directly, also no reply, yet. Imho everybody with this problem should open a support ticket or post to the google group to make sure, the developers of JJP are well aware of the problem and start (or continue) to investigate it.

If it is due to driver or os changes introduces with 1.60 for better compatibility with new mainboards, a version for older mainboards should be provided using the old foundation, if it is not possible to fix it...

Every day I think of downgrading to 1.57 to get rid of this randomness... But loosing all the new cool stuff... I don't know...

Cheers,
Lars

#8374 4 years ago
Quoted from nettek:

I went back to 1.57 after trying 1.6 and 1.61 out because the inconsistency in coil power drove me nuts. The most noticeable aspect of it on my machine is the spotlight that illuminates Betty. Soon after upgrading to 1.60, I noticed that the Betty spotlight was flickering, even in attract mode. I changed the LED, checked connections and nothing fixed it. I also noticed that the kick out from the phone scoop was all over the place. One other interesting point was that occasionally after power up, the Betty spotlight would be OK in attract mode. If I played games then, the coils would be more consistent. After another power cycle, it would go back to flickering again and the coils would be all inconsistent again as well.
I went back to 1.57 and all of that cleared up. So once more, I upgraded to 1.61. The first power cycle after the upgrade, everything came up solid, and I thought "good - something must have gone wrong the last time I tried the upgrade." Played a stack of games and enjoyed the new features. Came back the next day, powered it up, the Betty spotlight was flickering again and sure enough, couldn't make the consistent shots I'd been making, and the phone scoop kick out was all over the place again. That's when I noticed that I could repeatedly power cycle the machine and occasionally get everything to work OK.
So I ended up going back to 1.57 and hoped JJP would fix it in the next update. At one point I was going to hook up my oscilloscope across one of the coils and get some screenshots of the differences between versions. I ended up not doing it because I was sure they'd fix it. Looks like I might have to give it a go this weekend.

Same here at my place!
Please also let JJP know about it directly.

I would guess, there is something wrong with timing during boot up - this would explain, why it depends on power cycle an sometimes is okay and sometimes not. Maybe a different order or some delay in the boot sequence would already fix it. But to debug it, JJP developers must be involved. I don't think the logs are enough here...

Checking with the oscilloscope was in my mind, too. But in the end it would only proof, what we already feel, see and know, but still would not solve the problem...

Thanks,
Lars

#8377 4 years ago

I tried a factory reset. First it looked good, the flickering of the betty spotlight went away and first games were promising. After a power cycle the flickering and inconsistent power for coils came back...

I tried to reproduce it with another factory reset without any luck...

So I restored my backup and have to live with the randomness until JJP fixes it...

Was worth a try, but no luck.

#8381 4 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

funny Lars as i've exposed the possible hardware prob yesterday... for now, no reply on that

Your post was the source for my answer and I picked your idea up... I think your idea makes sense!

Up to now I had no time to open everything up to investigate further on the mainboard type and version... But I will do this and post what I find.

#8389 4 years ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

It's not the same on mine. Everything is perfect. I've put 10 games on it since the update came out.
I have a late build, standard edition.

Can you confirm:

even after a power cycle everything is perfekt:

no flickering at the betty spotlight,
consistent phone scoop kick-out
etc.

?

thanks,
Lars

#8392 4 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

whats are your pin hardware specs ?
here're mine :
HARDWARE INFO
Serial 8721449, country 1 (USA), HW id 0, model 1 (Limited Edition), num 0, max 3000
I/O Board: JJP-IO-REV06-063014
Jersey Jack Pinball LED Driver Version 529
Machine: Device: desktop Mobo: MSI model: H81M-P33 (MS-7817) v: 1.0 serial: N/A
BIOS: American Megatrends v: V1.21B1 date: 12/11/2015
CPU: Dual core Intel Celeron G1840 (-MCP-) cache: 2048 KB
clock speeds: max: 2800 MHz 1: 2799 MHz 2: 2799 MHz
Memory: Used/Total: 121.4/3636.1MB
Device-1: ChannelA-DIMM0 size: 4 GB speed: 1333 MT/s type: DDR3
Drives: HDD Total Size: 60.0GB (10.2% used)
ID-1: /dev/sda model: Patriot_Blaze size: 60.0GB
IF: enp3s0 ip-v4: N/A ip-v6-link: N/A
HDMI1 connected primary 1920x1080+0+0 (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 600mm x 330mm
VGA1 connected 1024x768+1920+0 (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 0mm x 0mm
HDMI-1-1 disconnected (normal left inverted right x axis y axis)
VGA-1-1 connected 1024x768+2944+0 (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 0mm x 0mm
from memory the 2nd GPU is a RADEON HD 6450

How did you get those specs? Is there a menu item for this report?

#8402 4 years ago
Quoted from pinstyle:

Disappointed they didnt fix the erratic coil issue. That is pretty much all I have been waiting for. The game is awesome otherwise....

+1. 100% agreed!

Everything else is nice, but this fix is necessary and a MUST!

#8403 4 years ago

Someone in the google group mentioned the flickering betty light might be on purpose and was introduced in version 1.57 to simulate a faulty advertisement spotlight. So this might be as designed.

Nevertheless the coil inconsistency cannot be on purpose, imho.

#8405 4 years ago
Quoted from robm:

Just upgraded from V1.6, followed instructions on JJP website, game updated successfully, and it told me to remove USB and restart the game. I did that, and now it doesn't boot.
Game shows the JJP logo and 5 or 6 silver balls under it, then main screen just stays blank and phone screen has white on the display and stays like that permanently.
PLEASE HELP - no idea what i can do?

I would go for a 1.60 full install and retry the delta to 1.71.

#8414 4 years ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

Also the 3.3 GHz processor in my machine (but still at 1.57). Maybe we can nail this down - what processor speed do the people with coil or lag problems have?

Then I would give it a try with 1.71. If it is the processor, you should be fine and get all the improvements. If you experience the problems, you can easy go back and restore all settings and highscores and we get much more information if or if not the processor is the source of the problems...

Thanks,
Lars

#8415 4 years ago

Slower processor in my machine, coils inconsistent, in rare cases delay in videos, with BT dongle directly in backbox
784F354A-7F6D-4F2F-ADB1-7443276A6162 (resized).jpeg784F354A-7F6D-4F2F-ADB1-7443276A6162 (resized).jpeg

#8422 4 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I'm seeing the video lag and inconsistent coils as well. My D.I.L.E. is older than yours, serial Number: 8721282.
I too wonder if the motherboard socket is the right configuration to just swap the CPU, and how much the faster CPU costs.
Even better- would JJP be willing to swap them for us early buyers?

A first look showed the cpu is no longer available. Only used at ebay. Price below 100 bucks.

The board should be able to handle it, no idea about the fan etc.

Cheers
Lars

#8424 4 years ago
Quoted from scottieIA:

No issues with mine. No real delay to complain about. Kickout coils regular enough. I do have a later build date. On the new update, the attract mode now scares the beejesus out of me when I walk by it with the volume turned up.

would you be so kind and have a look in the hardware info in the menu and check the cpu type?

Thank you very much,
lars

#8520 4 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

It would be nice to hear from jjp on the slowdown/coils issue ( I personally haven't noticed the coils issue, and I'm a fussy f***** so I guess I don't have it ) but I do have to leave the dongle out to get almost synced phone video.

A statement from JJP would be highly appreciated. Agreed!

The problem seems to be spread over more than a few machines, but not too many. I heard from some posts, that the developers are working on the problem, but no official information. If it is a SW bug and the team is working on it, it would be good to know, to trust in the team finding a solution. Otherwise it would be nice to understand how many machines are showing the problem and if JJP is investigating to find the source of the problem (or does already know and is looking for a solution).

Imho it would be the responsibility of JJP to find the source and propose a solution. Best without any cost for the customers involved, but even with additional cost: I want my DI! to be playing perfect! So I need to understand why this happens and how to solve it. At least this must be provided from JJP.

So maybe this is already in process. In this case I would like to know it. No matter if the solution is already near or they don't have a clue at all... Simply an information, if they know the problem and are able to reproduce it, would provide a better feeling...

#8538 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

How many owners had the trap door flap break off? I have new flap material, just not the correct rivets to attach.
Rob

Several times...

#8552 4 years ago
Quoted from Coindropper:

Yes, my video would slow down on the back glass and the phone. So far it seems to have solved it. Also, my phone scoop would sometimes take more than one try to eject. That issue seems resolved as well. I only played about 7 games but also tested acid rain with the glass off and no sync issue.

Yes, same issue seems resolved. The extra ram was just a test that I did before the processor swap. It doesn’t use all 4gb of ram so no benefit from that.

sounds great. I just ordered an i5 4670, which should also fit the mb and should be even faster. Will report my results, as soon as I as it received and I was able to test it.

Anybody can confirm the processor does really fits?

#8606 4 years ago

I swapped the processors. From the weak Celeron to an i5 4670. No problem at all, just follow the pictured instruction from Coindropper.
After first boot you need to press F2 on a connected keyboard. Then don't be afraid by the password request. I just ignored it and rebooted (turn off and on again). The next boot was successful without any irregularies.

Hardware infos shows the i5...

- Betty spotlight is a little bit flickering, but nothing compared to before.
- Videos are all totally in synch. Even with the bluetooth dongle installed back below the playfield. No slow down at all during all modes and in all combinations with extra ball, big bang, multiball, modes, etc. just perfekt.
- coil power - consistency is really improved. I would say, if I was not looking for it, I would not have noticed any abnormal behaviour. The phone scoop kick out is almost perfect, if I flip all fingers during kick out in fast frequence, it seems to be a bit weaker, maybe the speed of the ball also differs a bit, but it is definitely not all over the place. I had not one time it did not kick out or something like that. So really improved.

I did boot the machine about three times, and played several games after each boot up. So far no problems at all.

I am not sure, if the faster cpu is just covering a driver bug or something similar. But in the end of the day, I am much happier now with the faster cpu. Definitely worth the 70 euro (for me).

#8610 4 years ago
Quoted from Coindropper:

Well that’s good news! So 2 for 2 on the processor swap. You’re absolutely right on it being a bandaid covering the flaws in the code, but I’m happy that it at least gives us the ability to play on the newest code without issues.

Yep. Totally agreed!

#8618 4 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

i'm running a CYRIX P166+ !!! and i have just done that :
[quoted image]

You say a 133 MHz single core processor is enough to run the game?

#8640 4 years ago

Played about 50 games with the new cpu, now. No issues with video or coils.
Had a new grand champion with almost 10m points including Armageddon and showdown.

I am happy with the 1.71 sw and the new cpu.

Nevertheless there is room for improvement. Showdown needs an end instead of just continue with normal game mode...

#8642 4 years ago

Yes. i sm using the fan that was already installed. from the specs it should be sufficient and I did not order a new one.

#8644 4 years ago

Today I had a few times the feeling the phone kickout was a little bit weaker, again. Still nothing compared to the fluctuations with the celeron, but still something to notice, when looking for it.

So I still think the source is not the cpu, but the faster cpu seems to compensate it.

#8664 4 years ago

It should be a double flip with both flippers. Needs to be done, while the cancellation message is still displayed. It is possible one time for each multiball (not only once per game), but never during a mode.

#8677 4 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

or we missunderstand
or (again lol) i may have missed something, explain please...

everytime you lock enough balls to start a multiball during a game, you can cancel the call and delay it until the next mode starts (or ball is lost).

First you lock one ball and enable a two ball multiball - you can delay it until next mode starts
Next time you lock two balls to enable a three ball multiball - you can again delay it until the next mode starts
Then you lock three balls to enable a four ball multiball - you can again delay it...
and so on...

So each time you lock enough balls to have a multiball ready, you have a short time to double tap both flippers to cancel the call and delay the multiball until the next mode starts or the ball is lost.

#8689 4 years ago

exactly:

only one cancel per mutliball. NOT only one cancel per game...

#8690 4 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

I am having a blast on this game but I lose a ball about every second or third game because of a bad scoop eject between the flippers (either unsavable or I tilt trying to save). I’m about to just remove the tilt bob im getting so frustrated with the varied scoop eject power and theatre ‘throws’ that just drop straight down as I desperately try to save the drain.
After how much this has been brought up (it’s been going on a long time, right??) I’m just really surprised JJP didn’t address it either thru code or mechanics diagnostics.
It’s the one detriment to the game- I am super happy with everything else.

The phone scoop variations could be just due to mechanical issues. Check out the phone kick-out mechanic.

But there is also a change in code (drivers) introduced with version 1.60 causing this behaviour for some machines. If you read through the last few pages, you will understand.

You can check this by downgrading to version 1.57 i.e. and check, if the kick-out is consistent again.

For now there is no real fix, not even a statement from JJP. What we (users here) discovered so far: there are different CPUs used in different DI!s. People with the Pentium do not or only rarely report this problem, people with a celeron do report it often.

Some tried updating the processor (myself included) and it seems to fix the problem or at least covers it. Beside the phone kick-out consistency it also fixes video delays and other inconsistency i.e. the magnet power, etc...

So it might be a try for you to swap the processor of your DI!...

The theatre balls sdtm can be reduced by just rising the back right leg a bit, so the ball - if not deflected by the electrical guy or the magnets is going to the left flipper finger...

#8714 4 years ago
Quoted from gump79:

I installed an i5-4670 3.4 Ghz from eBay in place of my Celeron prior to updating to 1.71 from 1.56. Game seems to boot faster and have not noticed any lag or random coil strength.

Same cpu I have installed.

I had very few soft kick-outs from the phone scoop. But beside this everything is fine.

#8743 4 years ago

After several boot ups and a lot of games with the upgraded cpu:

No video delay at all
Still some coil strength issues, bit very seldom and most if a lot of other coils or magnets are firing. I.e. during multiballs or when flipping the fingers during ohone kick-out... nothing compared to the situation with the slow celeron, but still not perfect. In rare situations it still is weak even without anything else going on. But not as much as with the old cpu.

As it was perfect with v1.57 my conclusion is: videos are a subject of cpu power. Coil strength has another root cause, but is covered somehow with a stronger cpu.

#8799 4 years ago

I do not expect a replacement from JJP, but a statement and recommendation.

Is it a bug? Will it be fixed?
Or is it due to new functionality and does need an update of the cpu to run the newer versions?

If so, I am happy for some years of fun and also happy to invest a few dollars to use the new code. I rather spend some money to run the updated code than not getting any updates just to make sure all old hardware is able to run it.

#8809 4 years ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

Phone scoop coil inconsistent.
This problem started some time ago and got worse with the update it seemed, until it intermittently didn’t fire at all. Thought I had a switch problem but that worked in test most of the time. Long story short, turns out the broken end from the trap door had worked itself down the subway and was around the Phone entry switch area. I would have sworn I had found that bit when it broke, but obviously not. If you have had a broken subway door check your subway. It’s a real pain getting the thing out of that mech. It fits in tight.[quoted image]

My phone scoop coil is also inconsistent, since 1.60, better with new cpu, but I also miss a broken trap door flap, so I checked as you suggested, but did not find the broken flap... rebuild everything and all is the same like before...

where exactly was your flap in the mechanic?

2 weeks later
#8962 4 years ago

You can simply add the backbox flasher in LE. Everything is there, but the LEDs. SW also supports it.

1 week later
#9023 4 years ago

You can just build your own flasher using LED stripes and connect it to the plug in the backbox. Everything is there and easy to connect.

#9034 4 years ago

bending down the curve part is the trick. Have to do it every few months...

Adjusting the coil power is also a good thing. I like it most, if there are two balls in (i.e. one coming from the subway, second going into the phone) and the kick-out will just have enough power to kick one ball out and the second falling back in. This makes sure, the second hit into the phone is counted.

Unfortunately this setting is showing the coil power inconsistency most...

2 months later
#9606 4 years ago

Starts at 31:40...

Cheers, Lars

#9607 4 years ago

How to join the beta tests for new SW?

4 months later
#10305 3 years ago

Hi,

does anybody know which exact type of SMD RGB LED is used in the phone? One of mine was defect and when I removed it to re-solder it, it dropped to the ground and ... vanished... Now I would like to buy new LEDs to replace it...

Thanks,
Lars

4 months later
#10986 3 years ago
Quoted from branlon8:

in the move from 1.57 to 1.73 the lighting of the shoot again insert was changed (I think). On the screen you are told how many balls you still have and not on which ball you are currently on. Therefore, when you get an extra ball, the shoot again insert does not light. It’s lit during ball save and other lighting effects. I thought the led was malfunctioning, but it works fine otherwise and during diagnostic. JJP once again turns upside down a long standing tradition pertaining to how you know which ball you’re on (I like it). Sorry if I’m just rehashing old news, but I just figured it out and I hadn’t seen it elsewhere.

you can change this behavior in the settings. But you are right: in default settings it has changed this way. Additionally to the way your remaining balls are displayed, it changes the way of of a multi-player game: in this mode you always change players after a loss, even if you got an extra ball. Each extra ball is just an additional ball at the end, so no more waiting for two or three balls in a row for one player, unless at the end if only one player got extra balls...

1 year later
#12342 2 years ago

I also like the idea of a nice and interesting ending of wizard mode(s) and I would add the thought of a little bit more of a challenge. With DI it feels like very hard to reach Armageddon and even harder to reach Showdown. But if you reach one, both are easy to win. In fact I never missed to win the modes at all...

With all other machines I own it is a bit simpler to reach or the same as with DI, but then it is really hard to finish...

I also see the error messages at boot up, but also without any problems caused by it.

And last but not least I would add a +1 in regards of staying "logged in" at Scorbit, if chosen even if the app is closed. Making it possible to log in once as a one player in a home location and earning archivements and highscores even without keeping the app online all the time...

3 months later
#12621 2 years ago

even better than the plastic from JJP: make a metal wire coming up from the screw and a U-Turn to follow the wire-ramp in the middle. You will not notice this like the plastic and it will have the same effect.

1 week later
#12670 2 years ago

totally agree... I would love JJP offering an option to turn the drone activity back to the original level. I have modified my drones to protect the motors and would love to see the spinning like in the good old days.

2 months later
#12856 1 year ago
Quoted from DropGems:

Yea I’m totally aware of that. No I just played the game again and it’s definitely like a button/flipper register issue. Holding the left flipper button, I got a quick drop on the flipper for example and also got a quick flip another time just now so it’s definitely acting super wonky.

sounds like the second wire in the coil for holding the flipper up is broken. check if one of the wires on the coil is broken. I had the same and it looked connected, but the contact was loose and so it did not really have contact.

2 months later
#12993 1 year ago

I would still vote for an option to turn drones back to full usage (with the higher risk of failing) on own risk.
I have modified all drones to avoid burnt motors, so I would like to have them spinning like in early versions of the SW.
Could be an option in the settings and by default set to the new behavior...

6 months later
#13230 1 year ago

a small resistor in line with each drone will save the motors. Has also been posted here including a way to hide it in the drones, but would also work below the playfield, of course.

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