(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club


By goren1818

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,267 posts
  • 430 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 55 minutes ago by holminone
  • Topic is favorited by 152 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 878 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

image (resized).jpg
20190216_122651 (resized).jpg
20190216_122658 (resized).jpg
CBE0CC57-E24F-484F-8564-E3106C3BFF66 (resized).jpeg
20190214_171828 (resized).jpg
20190214_200134 (resized).jpg
2018-08-29 12.21.12s (resized).jpg
dialedinshirt (resized).jpg
IMG_8759 (resized).png
20190210_143929 (resized).jpg
IMG_1270 (resized).jpeg
di (resized).JPG
IMG_1269 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1267 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1266 (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

21 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 7267 posts in this topic. You are on page 145 of 146.
#7201 8 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Dialed In Owners,
A few months ago, I won a signed Dialed In translite. Even though I'm not a Dialed In owner and probably never will be (love the game, but out of my price range), I thought I might make some wall art out of it. After holding on to it for a couple of months, I realize that I'm never going to do anything with it.
Since it can't be used on the game and only for decoration, I'm not sure what it is worth but thought I would offer it up to the group. If you are interested, please PM me and make an offer. To be fair I'll give everyone until 8:00PM Central this Friday (Feb. 8), then anyone who has made an offer (if more than one person) will be alerted as to the highest offer and then be given one more chance to up theirs. If I only have a single offer by that time, then it will go to that person at that price (buyer will also cover shipping costs).
I'm not expecting to get rich or anything off of this, so if you have any interest throw a number at me regardless of how low it might be. I just want to get it into the hands of someone who will appreciate and display it.
Translite is 27" wide by 24.5" tall
[quoted image][quoted image]

As an update to my original post, the deadline for making an offer is tonight at 8:00 central. If more than one person makes an offer, I will give everyone a second chance, but then going to highest bidder. Otherwise, if only a single offer is made then I will sell at that price.

#7202 8 days ago

I took the rubber off the post right above the SIM hole. It has helped quite a bit.

#7203 8 days ago

Ok, so I messed up good and big... I was pulling out the playfield to tune up the upper right flipper position... Embarrassed to say, I pulled the playfield out beyond the guides and things came to rest on the moving target assembly (yikes I know- major chicken bone- not like the Williams games). There are no severed wires going into the electric dude but a couple may have gotten pinched a bit or stretched. Dude lights up and target registers, he just doesn't move.

Getting an error "moving target malfunction". I've checked the voltages at the Motor Relay and they are 12.5 to 13 (good) and then at the molex connector, and that is good, but then at the pins connecting to the motor I get a drop to about half that when the test is running but no movement (a faint periodic click can be heard). Compared to the Arm drop actuator, that stays persistent at 12.5 volts.

Is it possible any pinched wires going to the dude might prevent the motor from actuating to move the guy? I've disassembled the actual motor in its entirety in thinking its jammed, and I'm prepared to replace it...

Any ideas? I'll take your flames and insults too... Thank god no damage aside from the dude not moving (he does light up and targets register)

#7204 8 days ago
Quoted from holminone:

Ok, so I messed up good and big... I was pulling out the playfield to tune up the upper right flipper position... Embarrassed to say, I pulled the playfield out beyond the guides and things came to rest on the moving target assembly (yikes I know- major chicken bone- not like the Williams games). There are no severed wires going into the electric dude but a couple may have gotten pinched a bit or stretched. Dude lights up and target registers, he just doesn't move.
Getting an error "moving target malfunction". I've checked the voltages at the Motor Relay and they are 12.5 to 13 (good) and then at the molex connector, and that is good, but then at the pins connecting to the motor I get a drop to about half that when the test is running but no movement (a faint periodic click can be heard). Compared to the Arm drop actuator, that stays persistent at 12.5 volts.
Is it possible any pinched wires going to the dude might prevent the motor from actuating to move the guy? I've disassembled the actual motor in its entirety in thinking its jammed, and I'm prepared to replace it...
Any ideas? I'll take your flames and insults too... Thank god no damage aside from the dude not moving (he does light up and targets register)

You aren't the first and won't be the last to do that. I did it to TSPP a while back.

#7205 8 days ago

Its the motor. Got a little tweaked and needs to be replaced.

#7206 8 days ago
Quoted from DrDQ:

I think the SIM card shot may have been intended to be made more with a left flipper bank off the drone rubber than with the upper right flipper. It’s one of the most satisfying shots when you can make it purposefully. I would think a very skilled player could do this with some consistency (ie maybe 50% of the time).

I never thought to try this. My first attempt - banked it right in. Thanks for the tip!

#7207 7 days ago

After reading everyone’s input on the SIM card shot, decided to look further at what can be done to make it sweeter and I had a simple breakthrough. I simply traded the two out-lane O-rings (smaller rings) with the two located at the SIM card shot (much fatter rings) and wow, big difference! Improved going in by at least 50%! No matter if using upper flipper, bounce in from Big Bang or ricochet from drone bumpers.

I mentioned before that I put “gun” sight targets like my friend did on the upper right flipper that help too. The lower one set for SIM card and the upper one for the phone scoop. Really helps, like shooting a gun with a scope, lol.

Yes, the outlanes still have plenty of challenge with even fatter o-rings. Ball will still drain plenty. Lol

image (resized).jpg

#7208 7 days ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

After reading everyone’s input on the SIM card shot, decided to look further at what can be done to make it sweeter and I had a simple breakthrough. I simply traded the two out-lane O-rings (smaller rings) with the two located at the SIM card shot (much fatter rings) and wow, big difference! Improved going in by at least 50%! No matter if using upper flipper, bounce in from Big Bang or ricochet from drone bumpers.
I mentioned before that I put “gun” sight targets like my friend did on the upper right flipper that help too. The lower one set for SIM card and the upper one for the phone scoop. Really helps, like shooting a gun with a scope, lol.
Yes, the outlanes still have plenty of challenge with even fatter o-rings. Ball will still drain plenty. Lol
[quoted image]

Great idea! Unfortunately, those pesky small rubbers are tough to install around the SIM care (the wireform is in the way). One of the rubbers just fell into the subway Is anything easy? No matter how long I work on pinball machines, I can't resist dropping shit. Guess I was rushing...oh well.

One small tweak to your idea is to keep the smaller rubbers on the outlanes as well. Will have to play to see how it works with the larger ones...

Thanks!

#7209 7 days ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Great idea! Unfortunately, those pesky small rubbers are tough to install around the SIM care (the wireform is in the way). One of the rubbers just fell into the subway Is anything easy? No matter how long I work on pinball machines, I can't resist dropping shit. Guess I was rushing...oh well.
One small tweak to your idea is to keep the smaller rubbers on the outlanes as well. Will have to play to see how it works with the larger ones...
Thanks!

Lol, one of mine fell into the subway too! Had to lift my table and then poke a twisty tie in to get it out. But now SIM card shoots so much easier!

#7210 7 days ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

Lol, one of mine fell into the subway too! Had to lift my table and then poke a twisty tie in to get it out. But now SIM card shoots so much easier!

btw...the other tweak I made was putting a 3mil plastic protector over the cliffy/pf. This eliminated 99.5% of the cliffy "lift" which can contribute to rejects. SIM card hole much smoother now. Before/after photo below...not sure it's that noticeable in the photo.

I looked at the JJP manual for DI and rubber diagram doesn't specify what size rubber should be installed around the SIM card. Maybe I have an old manual? If you have a manual, I'd be interested in what it specifies.

IMG_1266 (resized).jpegIMG_1267 (resized).jpeg
#7211 7 days ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

Lol, one of mine fell into the subway too! Had to lift my table and then poke a twisty tie in to get it out. But now SIM card shoots so much easier!

At least you found yours. I pulled the top rubber off and of course dropped it. Can't find it anywhere. Really don't want to pull the ramp apart to find it.

#7212 7 days ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Can't find it anywhere.

I'm pretty sure that pinball machines are made with "Instant Hole."
Worst product ever made.

The instant hole appears around 2:40 in the below.

#7213 6 days ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I'm pretty sure that pinball machines are made with "Instant Hole."
Worst product ever made.
The instant hole appears around 2:40 in the below.

Just watched the instant hole! Great fun, thanks for sharing! They don’t make cartoons like that anymore. Clever and great voice work.

#7214 6 days ago

Has anyone developed a mod/solution to the ball trap in back of the Quantum Theatre? Seems like the clear plastic protector to the left of the Quantum Theatre could be modified to plug the gap.

Update: Decided to repurpose one of the 2 small wood blocks supplied with the machine. Fits perfectly and should prevent this ball hang forever
IMG_1269 (resized).jpeg

IMG_1270 (resized).jpeg
#7215 6 days ago

from a "player point of view", would be simplier to just remove the 2 cliffy holes :/ ... but OK, i know, not a good idea as we all have to think about later value lost...

same about phone airballs, surelly cliffy's fault, but mainly i think the left post is the responsible on mine
nobody with a clean/clever idea for a plexi protector over that area ? or why not another post model ? (even with a ring !?)

di (resized).JPG

#7216 6 days ago

Ok....my replacement cliffy is already raising up. I installed it 2 and a half months ago, 600 short plays. I'm going to buy a mantis right now.

20190210_143929 (resized).jpg
#7217 6 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ok....my replacement cliffy is already raising up. I installed it 2 and a half months ago, 600 short plays. I'm going to buy a mantis right now.[quoted image]

That always happens. One accidentally misstep installing and/or getting hammered. I always buy an extra, sadly.

#7218 5 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

As an update to my original post, the deadline for making an offer is tonight at 8:00 central. If more than one person makes an offer, I will give everyone a second chance, but then going to highest bidder. Otherwise, if only a single offer is made then I will sell at that price.

SOLD!

#7219 4 days ago
Quoted from AFM95:

(Credit to wjxxxx for bringing this up)
thelaw and everyone else - I would love to see everyone else's "Subway" success stats. If you're willing, please post a picture of your "Subway" stats below.
Audits > Game Audits > Playfield Audits (scroll way down) > Subway
I'm currently sitting at 1.43 per game; or as it shows - 143% (Subway successes/# of games played)[quoted image]

allmost 3 per game...

IMG_8759 (resized).png
#7220 4 days ago

When wearing this while playing I'm really dialed in!

dialedinshirt (resized).jpg
#7221 4 days ago
Quoted from pb_lawww:

allmost 3 per game...[quoted image]

You're a boss! Very impressive! Also, thank you for sharing.

#7222 4 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ok....my replacement cliffy is already raising up. I installed it 2 and a half months ago, 600 short plays. I'm going to buy a mantis right now.[quoted image]

I find the slight rise has little to no effect on gameplay.

#7223 4 days ago

OK...got 9 drone motors switched out (old ones that were probably on the brink of death), and added a resistor to each drone.

I added the resistor to the power line (so...not in the drone itself) which was much easier.

I first added a 75Ω resistor, which was fairly quiet when I tested it with the glass off, though leds didn't work. Then I tried 50Ω which the LEDs kind of worked (sometimes fully flashed sometimes dimly), and a bit louder.

However...I wish I added 100+Ω resistors. Once the game was on and glass on, the drones were silent when operating. So I should have just put in the larger resistor since I wasn't going to hear them anyway.

Hopefully....these drone motors will last a long time now! If they fail again, I might just buy new drones since these aren't the most robust machines so constantly messing around with them stuff just keeps slightly twisting/breaking on them.

#7224 3 days ago
Quoted from AFM95:

You're a boss! Very impressive! Also, thank you for sharing.

I guess my personal value is even higher, I have some friends coming over and play with me, who are not very experienced players, so the average is pulled down somehow. I would say an average of 4 or 5 subways per game should be reachable for a good player, even a pro would max it out...

#7225 3 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

OK...got 9 drone motors switched out (old ones that were probably on the brink of death), and added a resistor to each drone.
I added the resistor to the power line (so...not in the drone itself) which was much easier.
I first added a 75Ω resistor, which was fairly quiet when I tested it with the glass off, though leds didn't work. Then I tried 50Ω which the LEDs kind of worked (sometimes fully flashed sometimes dimly), and a bit louder.
However...I wish I added 100+Ω resistors. Once the game was on and glass on, the drones were silent when operating. So I should have just put in the larger resistor since I wasn't going to hear them anyway.
Hopefully....these drone motors will last a long time now! If they fail again, I might just buy new drones since these aren't the most robust machines so constantly messing around with them stuff just keeps slightly twisting/breaking on them.

As said before: the resistor inside of the drone is my way to go, as the LEDs stay working without any problems. Even with higher ohm value, to protect the motors even better.

By the way: I did not have any motor dying, since I added the resistors to my drones. So this seems to be a very reliable and long lasting solution.

#7226 3 days ago

Started all modes but one yesterday then drained. AAAHHHHHHHHHH.

#7227 2 days ago

Found the best way protecting the drone motors: switching them off in the settings...

#7228 2 days ago

Has anyone had any luck getting in touch with JJP support I have left 2 voice messages and 1 email in the last month and no response?

#7229 2 days ago
Quoted from KellerDj:

Has anyone had any luck getting in touch with JJP support I have left 2 voice messages and 1 email in the last month and no response?

I haven't heard from them yet either on a ticket I submitted last week about my POTC.

#7230 2 days ago

Does anyone know if you can use a different ssd when the current one goes out as long as it's same size or larger capacity?

Thanks!

#7231 2 days ago
Quoted from KellerDj:

Has anyone had any luck getting in touch with JJP support I have left 2 voice messages and 1 email in the last month and no response?

I left a voice mail Monday morning and was called back that day.

#7232 2 days ago

Has anyone bought Mezel's Quantom Electric topper? If so, are you happy with it?

Thanks

Gerry

#7233 2 days ago
Quoted from pb_lawww:

allmost 3 per game...[quoted image]

238%. Upper flipper set to 15 (I think) which is the only adjustment made

#7234 2 days ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Has anyone bought Mezel's Quantom Electric topper? If so, are you happy with it?
Thanks
Gerry

I have one and love it. You can control the lights to go from always on or different flashing.

2018-08-29 12.21.12s (resized).jpg
#7235 2 days ago
Quoted from KellerDj:

Has anyone had any luck getting in touch with JJP support I have left 2 voice messages and 1 email in the last month and no response?

2 mails wroten (on their page), and no response since more than 1 month... (no phone call, i'm in Belgium)

Quoted from ClarkKent:

Found the best way protecting the drone motors: switching them off in the settings...

did the same from firsts days i get the pin, dont really need to have the drones working when playing it (and as it, when i want to sell it, these will work)

#7236 2 days ago
Quoted from nodyeliab:

Does anyone know if you can use a different ssd when the current one goes out as long as it's same size or larger capacity?
Thanks!

see no reason it will not work...

already had the idea to put 2 similars SDRAM banks in the slots (to get DUAL CHANNEL, quite sure this could help)
and let me ask again : did someone know the password to enter the BIOS, or did someone already tried by simply removing the cell ?

#7237 2 days ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

did someone know the password to enter the BIOS, or did someone already tried by simply removing the cell ?

If you remove the cell and put it back in, it removes the password.

#7238 2 days ago
Quoted from nodyeliab:

Does anyone know if you can use a different ssd when the current one goes out as long as it's same size or larger capacity?
Thanks!

No idea. I assume you need to take a backup of the ssd now while its running and cannot wait until.it crashes, put an empty new ssd in and do a software upgrade?
Is all the os on the ssd or also part on the pc ? Does anything start with the ssd removed ?

#7239 2 days ago
Quoted from aeneas:

No idea. I assume you need to take a backup of the ssd now while its running and cannot wait until.it crashes, put an empty new ssd in and do a software upgrade?
Is all the os on the ssd or also part on the pc ? Does anything start with the ssd removed ?

Thanks, it doesn't recognize the drive anymore. I took it out and tried it on another Dialed In and it gives the same error so it looks like it's dead. I just ordered another 60gb ssd, I'm hoping that booting from a full install thumb drive it will format and do a full installation.

#7240 2 days ago
Quoted from pb_lawww:

allmost 3 per game...[quoted image]

Finally got to checkout the audits on my mates machine.
Not exactly a gimme, even If SIM card was always lit.

20190214_200134 (resized).jpg
#7241 2 days ago
Quoted from nodyeliab:

Thanks, it doesn't recognize the drive anymore. I took it out and tried it on another Dialed In and it gives the same error so it looks like it's dead. I just ordered another 60gb ssd, I'm hoping that booting from a full install thumb drive it will format and do a full installation.

let us know please...

#7242 2 days ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

someone know the password to enter the BIOS,

qmodem

LTG : )

#7243 2 days ago

ok tanx (same as WOZ, just seen), will check that & more this WE

#7244 2 days ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

let us know please...

While I'm waiting for the new ssd to be delivered, I decided to try an old non ssd 160gb laptop drive. It installed 1.60 with no problems and works, though it does take a LOT longer to boot, lol.

#7245 2 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Does anybody have some tips on adjusting the switches on the loop wireframes? I adjusted several of them in the past because some shots were not registering when the ball was moving with decently high speed. What I did:
1. Made sure the screws were not overly tight. If overly tight, the switch just wouldn't work well.
2. I bent the leaf switch at this bend here ->
[quoted image]
to make it more towards 90°.
However...my right ramp 'made' switch is giving me a harder time than the other ones. Now that I fixed the right ramp rejects with the electrical tape fix (see https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/132#post-4742656), and waxed the PF, there can be some decent speed on a well placed right ramp shot.
I've tried bending more towards 90° to get to 100% switch acceptance, but I'm finding I hit the critical "too much" bending point where the switch leaf now pushes the ball off the wireframe because the leaf hits the switch too soon.
Basically....maybe there is something else I can try with these switches that I haven't tried yet? Or bending them somewhere else, etc?

Ok....I went ahead and bought a replacement switch and installed it today. And....still the same problem (though maybe slightly better success %). If the ball has enough speed, the right ramp success switch doesn't register 100%.

I'm now thinking....that with enough speed, the ball comes up the metal ramp and goes slightly airborne and then doesn't hit the switch wire correctly. And if that's the case...I just don't know if there is a fix I could do. I think if the switch was further down the wireform that might work but I don't see an easy way to change its location.

20190214_171828 (resized).jpg

#7246 2 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ok....I went ahead and bought a replacement switch and installed it today. And....still the same problem (though maybe slightly better success %). If the ball has enough speed, the right ramp success switch doesn't register 100%.
I'm now thinking....that with enough speed, the ball comes up the metal ramp and goes slightly airborne and then doesn't hit the switch wire correctly. And if that's the case...I just don't know if there is a fix I could do. I think if the switch was further down the wireform that might work but I don't see an easy way to change its location.
[quoted image]

I actually raised the switch on the left ramp when I was fixing some issues 1 year ago. Here is a link.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-le-left-ramp-shot-results-in-lost-ball#post-4076676

snaroff

#7247 1 day ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I actually raised the switch on the left ramp when I was fixing some issues 1 year ago. Here is a link.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-le-left-ramp-shot-results-in-lost-ball#post-4076676
snaroff

Ok, so you are thinking if I raise the switch vertically it would improve switch hit success?

From your posts a year ago, it looks like your ball issue was mainly fixed by moving the wireframe.

My current theory is that its a problem with the fast moving balls going airborne off the ramp but of course I could be wrong.

If I am wrong...and it is just the ball is moving too fast for the switch to get compressed enough to register...if I move it up vertically it would hit more of the ball surface, though also increase the chance of pushing the ball out of the wireframe...

#7248 1 day ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ok, so you are thinking if I raise the switch vertically it would improve switch hit success?
From your posts a year ago, it looks like your ball issue was mainly fixed by moving the wireframe.
My current theory is that its a problem with the fast moving balls going airborne off the ramp but of course I could be wrong.
If I am wrong...and it is just the ball is moving too fast for the switch to get compressed enough to register...if I move it up vertically it would hit more of the ball surface, though also increase the chance of pushing the ball out of the wireframe...

Take a slomo video and you’ll see that the ball is hitting the first corner where it enters the wireform after leaving the ramp. That’s where it becomes slightly airborne. Had same issue and fixed mine where it’s smooth as silk and switch works fine too, no matter ball speed.

Steps:
1. Remove switches from wire form.
2. Remove wireform from PF
3. Use taped plier teeth, then bend (switch closest to betty) switch mounting tab downward approx. 5 degrees.
4. Remount wire form and screw switches back on.
5. Loosen station 1 top most mounting screw, by 2-3 full turns.

Trick is to make sure ball doesn’t snag on the corners of the top switch arm. Make sure switch arm is perfectly aligned, so ball glides along the flat surface of the switch arm and not catch on the corners.
CBE0CC57-E24F-484F-8564-E3106C3BFF66 (resized).jpeg

#7249 1 day ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

Take a slomo video and you’ll see that the ball is hitting the first corner where it enters the wireform after leaving the ramp. That’s where it becomes slightly airborne. Had same issue and fixed mine where it’s smooth as silk and switch works fine too, no matter ball speed.
Steps:
1. Remove switches from wire form.
2. Remove wireform from PF
3. Use taped plier teeth, then bend betty switch mounting tab downward 5 degrees.
4. Remount wire form and screw switches back on.
5. Loosen station 1 top most mounting screw, by 2-3 full turns.
Trick is to make sure ball doesn’t snag on the corners of the top switch arm. Make sure switch arm is perfectly aligned, so ball glides along the flat surface of the switch arm and not catch on the corners. [quoted image]

Appreciate your post, though the switch I'm talking about is the right ramp switch, not the left ramp switch (betty switch).

Though...I like your idea of just bending the switching mounting tab a bit to get the switch arm higher vertically.

#7250 1 day ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Appreciate your post, though the switch I'm talking about is the right ramp switch, not the left ramp switch (betty switch).
Though...I like your idea of just bending the switching mounting tab a bit to get the switch arm higher vertically.

Make sure the right side switch is also perpendicular to the ball. Same issue.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 9,000.00
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 24.00
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
There are 7267 posts in this topic. You are on page 145 of 146.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside