As an update to my original post, the deadline for making an offer is tonight at 8:00 central. If more than one person makes an offer, I will give everyone a second chance, but then going to highest bidder. Otherwise, if only a single offer is made then I will sell at that price.

I took the rubber off the post right above the SIM hole. It has helped quite a bit.

Ok, so I messed up good and big... I was pulling out the playfield to tune up the upper right flipper position... Embarrassed to say, I pulled the playfield out beyond the guides and things came to rest on the moving target assembly (yikes I know- major chicken bone- not like the Williams games). There are no severed wires going into the electric dude but a couple may have gotten pinched a bit or stretched. Dude lights up and target registers, he just doesn't move.

Getting an error "moving target malfunction". I've checked the voltages at the Motor Relay and they are 12.5 to 13 (good) and then at the molex connector, and that is good, but then at the pins connecting to the motor I get a drop to about half that when the test is running but no movement (a faint periodic click can be heard). Compared to the Arm drop actuator, that stays persistent at 12.5 volts.

Is it possible any pinched wires going to the dude might prevent the motor from actuating to move the guy? I've disassembled the actual motor in its entirety in thinking its jammed, and I'm prepared to replace it...

Any ideas? I'll take your flames and insults too... Thank god no damage aside from the dude not moving (he does light up and targets register)

You aren't the first and won't be the last to do that. I did it to TSPP a while back.

Its the motor. Got a little tweaked and needs to be replaced.

I never thought to try this. My first attempt - banked it right in. Thanks for the tip!

After reading everyone’s input on the SIM card shot, decided to look further at what can be done to make it sweeter and I had a simple breakthrough. I simply traded the two out-lane O-rings (smaller rings) with the two located at the SIM card shot (much fatter rings) and wow, big difference! Improved going in by at least 50%! No matter if using upper flipper, bounce in from Big Bang or ricochet from drone bumpers.

I mentioned before that I put “gun” sight targets like my friend did on the upper right flipper that help too. The lower one set for SIM card and the upper one for the phone scoop. Really helps, like shooting a gun with a scope, lol.

Yes, the outlanes still have plenty of challenge with even fatter o-rings. Ball will still drain plenty. Lol

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Great idea! Unfortunately, those pesky small rubbers are tough to install around the SIM care (the wireform is in the way). One of the rubbers just fell into the subway Is anything easy? No matter how long I work on pinball machines, I can't resist dropping shit. Guess I was rushing...oh well.

One small tweak to your idea is to keep the smaller rubbers on the outlanes as well. Will have to play to see how it works with the larger ones...

Thanks!

Lol, one of mine fell into the subway too! Had to lift my table and then poke a twisty tie in to get it out. But now SIM card shoots so much easier!

btw...the other tweak I made was putting a 3mil plastic protector over the cliffy/pf. This eliminated 99.5% of the cliffy "lift" which can contribute to rejects. SIM card hole much smoother now. Before/after photo below...not sure it's that noticeable in the photo.

I looked at the JJP manual for DI and rubber diagram doesn't specify what size rubber should be installed around the SIM card. Maybe I have an old manual? If you have a manual, I'd be interested in what it specifies.

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At least you found yours. I pulled the top rubber off and of course dropped it. Can't find it anywhere. Really don't want to pull the ramp apart to find it.

I'm pretty sure that pinball machines are made with "Instant Hole."
Worst product ever made.

The instant hole appears around 2:40 in the below.

Just watched the instant hole! Great fun, thanks for sharing! They don’t make cartoons like that anymore. Clever and great voice work.

Has anyone developed a mod/solution to the ball trap in back of the Quantum Theatre? Seems like the clear plastic protector to the left of the Quantum Theatre could be modified to plug the gap.

Update: Decided to repurpose one of the 2 small wood blocks supplied with the machine. Fits perfectly and should prevent this ball hang forever
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from a "player point of view", would be simplier to just remove the 2 cliffy holes :/ ... but OK, i know, not a good idea as we all have to think about later value lost...

same about phone airballs, surelly cliffy's fault, but mainly i think the left post is the responsible on mine
nobody with a clean/clever idea for a plexi protector over that area ? or why not another post model ? (even with a ring !?)

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Ok....my replacement cliffy is already raising up. I installed it 2 and a half months ago, 600 short plays. I'm going to buy a mantis right now.

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That always happens. One accidentally misstep installing and/or getting hammered. I always buy an extra, sadly.

SOLD!

allmost 3 per game...

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When wearing this while playing I'm really dialed in!

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You're a boss! Very impressive! Also, thank you for sharing.

I find the slight rise has little to no effect on gameplay.

OK...got 9 drone motors switched out (old ones that were probably on the brink of death), and added a resistor to each drone.

I added the resistor to the power line (so...not in the drone itself) which was much easier.

I first added a 75Ω resistor, which was fairly quiet when I tested it with the glass off, though leds didn't work. Then I tried 50Ω which the LEDs kind of worked (sometimes fully flashed sometimes dimly), and a bit louder.

However...I wish I added 100+Ω resistors. Once the game was on and glass on, the drones were silent when operating. So I should have just put in the larger resistor since I wasn't going to hear them anyway.

Hopefully....these drone motors will last a long time now! If they fail again, I might just buy new drones since these aren't the most robust machines so constantly messing around with them stuff just keeps slightly twisting/breaking on them.

I guess my personal value is even higher, I have some friends coming over and play with me, who are not very experienced players, so the average is pulled down somehow. I would say an average of 4 or 5 subways per game should be reachable for a good player, even a pro would max it out...

As said before: the resistor inside of the drone is my way to go, as the LEDs stay working without any problems. Even with higher ohm value, to protect the motors even better.

By the way: I did not have any motor dying, since I added the resistors to my drones. So this seems to be a very reliable and long lasting solution.

Started all modes but one yesterday then drained. AAAHHHHHHHHHH.

Found the best way protecting the drone motors: switching them off in the settings...

Has anyone had any luck getting in touch with JJP support I have left 2 voice messages and 1 email in the last month and no response?

I haven't heard from them yet either on a ticket I submitted last week about my POTC.

Does anyone know if you can use a different ssd when the current one goes out as long as it's same size or larger capacity?

Thanks!

I left a voice mail Monday morning and was called back that day.

Has anyone bought Mezel's Quantom Electric topper? If so, are you happy with it?

Thanks

Gerry

238%. Upper flipper set to 15 (I think) which is the only adjustment made

I have one and love it. You can control the lights to go from always on or different flashing.

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2 mails wroten (on their page), and no response since more than 1 month... (no phone call, i'm in Belgium)

did the same from firsts days i get the pin, dont really need to have the drones working when playing it (and as it, when i want to sell it, these will work)

see no reason it will not work...

already had the idea to put 2 similars SDRAM banks in the slots (to get DUAL CHANNEL, quite sure this could help)
and let me ask again : did someone know the password to enter the BIOS, or did someone already tried by simply removing the cell ?

If you remove the cell and put it back in, it removes the password.

No idea. I assume you need to take a backup of the ssd now while its running and cannot wait until.it crashes, put an empty new ssd in and do a software upgrade?
Is all the os on the ssd or also part on the pc ? Does anything start with the ssd removed ?

Thanks, it doesn't recognize the drive anymore. I took it out and tried it on another Dialed In and it gives the same error so it looks like it's dead. I just ordered another 60gb ssd, I'm hoping that booting from a full install thumb drive it will format and do a full installation.

Finally got to checkout the audits on my mates machine.
Not exactly a gimme, even If SIM card was always lit.

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let us know please...

qmodem

LTG : )

ok tanx (same as WOZ, just seen), will check that & more this WE

While I'm waiting for the new ssd to be delivered, I decided to try an old non ssd 160gb laptop drive. It installed 1.60 with no problems and works, though it does take a LOT longer to boot, lol.

Ok....I went ahead and bought a replacement switch and installed it today. And....still the same problem (though maybe slightly better success %). If the ball has enough speed, the right ramp success switch doesn't register 100%.

I'm now thinking....that with enough speed, the ball comes up the metal ramp and goes slightly airborne and then doesn't hit the switch wire correctly. And if that's the case...I just don't know if there is a fix I could do. I think if the switch was further down the wireform that might work but I don't see an easy way to change its location.

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I actually raised the switch on the left ramp when I was fixing some issues 1 year ago. Here is a link.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-le-left-ramp-shot-results-in-lost-ball#post-4076676

snaroff

Ok, so you are thinking if I raise the switch vertically it would improve switch hit success?

From your posts a year ago, it looks like your ball issue was mainly fixed by moving the wireframe.

My current theory is that its a problem with the fast moving balls going airborne off the ramp but of course I could be wrong.

If I am wrong...and it is just the ball is moving too fast for the switch to get compressed enough to register...if I move it up vertically it would hit more of the ball surface, though also increase the chance of pushing the ball out of the wireframe...

Take a slomo video and you’ll see that the ball is hitting the first corner where it enters the wireform after leaving the ramp. That’s where it becomes slightly airborne. Had same issue and fixed mine where it’s smooth as silk and switch works fine too, no matter ball speed.

Steps:
1. Remove switches from wire form.
2. Remove wireform from PF
3. Use taped plier teeth, then bend (switch closest to betty) switch mounting tab downward approx. 5 degrees.
4. Remount wire form and screw switches back on.
5. Loosen station 1 top most mounting screw, by 2-3 full turns.

Trick is to make sure ball doesn’t snag on the corners of the top switch arm. Make sure switch arm is perfectly aligned, so ball glides along the flat surface of the switch arm and not catch on the corners.
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Appreciate your post, though the switch I'm talking about is the right ramp switch, not the left ramp switch (betty switch).

Though...I like your idea of just bending the switching mounting tab a bit to get the switch arm higher vertically.

Make sure the right side switch is also perpendicular to the ball. Same issue.