Anyone know how to ' edit selfie label ' , I'm putting my name in and it says press start to save but it does nothing. I'm hoping this is how you don't have to keep putting your name in after a game? am I misunderstanding what this option is for? Isn't there a way for the machine to recognize you and put your name in automatically?

“Edit selfie label” puts custom text on the white part of the selfie photos on the screen. It’s not for high scores.

The selfie label is only used on the photos during the selfie mode, not the high score.

to change that label, enter the test menu (black button inside coin door), scroll down to "Selfie customization" and then push the black button again to enter the menu to change the label.

Thanks for beating me to it Kevin.

Thanks guys, so my request for facial recognition to automatically add your name isn't a thing then? at least not yet?

Ha. Gotta be quick! I’ve been learning a lot about this game over the past few weeks

Facial recognition of a person is a pretty big ask. I'm relatively certain Facebook and Apple have huge server farms that handle that for them.

Anyway, we will eventually pre-populate the high score initials from the name in the phone app profile. Everything in due time.

Check that the mechanism is properly work by using the Statue Diverter Test. (Full Menu->Tests->Device Tests->Statue Diverter)

Pressing ENTER in the test will run the motor. Verify the "Diverter Down" switch activates when the arm is in the down position. Run the motor for a while to make sure the arm isn't catching on anything.

I believe Cliff has already modified his phone protector. New design is much better.

Do you plan to send player selfies to the app if it's connected so people can keep their playing selfies?

Yea, I think I got 1st design and he is on 3rd design of the phone cliffy now.

Anyone have an alternate download for new code? JJP website say 6-8 hours to download.

Wow, that's not right. What speed of connection are you on?

Just did a speedtest, 100mbit. Something bad is happening on their servers, can anyone else try now and see if they get reasonable speed?

If you can't work it out, PM me and I'll put it on my server for you to download and give you a link.

It took me just a few minutes the other day, and I just tested and still super fast so maybe something local?

Try a traceroute, not a speed test. It may be you have bad routing.

https://www.ultratools.com/tools/traceRoute and enter 159.203.76.48 for the host name and 64 as max hops

On the readout, none of the segments should be much over 50ms. Most should be 20 or less.

Hmm. Yeah a bad hop could have made sense. This looks ok though. I tried to redownload and same issue.
Pinging 159.203.76.48 with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 159.203.76.48: bytes=32 time=85ms TTL=53
Reply from 159.203.76.48: bytes=32 time=87ms TTL=53
Reply from 159.203.76.48: bytes=32 time=93ms TTL=53
Reply from 159.203.76.48: bytes=32 time=87ms TTL=53

Ping statistics for 159.203.76.48:
Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 85ms, Maximum = 93ms, Average = 88ms

C:\Users\Claire>tracert 159.203.76.48

Tracing route to 159.203.76.48 over a maximum of 30 hops

1 14 ms 7 ms 5 ms 192.168.0.1
2 28 ms 55 ms 29 ms 10.93.0.1
3 18 ms 17 ms 19 ms 173-212-126-145.eastlink.ca [173.212.126.145]
4 17 ms 29 ms 40 ms ns-hlfx-dr001.ns.eastlink.ca [24.222.227.77]
5 17 ms 16 ms 170 ms ns-hlfx-br001.ns.eastlink.ca [24.215.101.221]
6 73 ms 69 ms 69 ms toro-b1-link.telia.net [62.115.42.69]
7 76 ms 93 ms 74 ms motl-b1-link.telia.net [62.115.134.49]
8 87 ms 87 ms 81 ms nyk-bb4-link.telia.net [62.115.134.52]
9 82 ms 93 ms 179 ms nyk-b3-link.telia.net [62.115.139.151]
10 82 ms 78 ms 79 ms digitalocean-ic-306497-nyk-b3.c.telia.net [62.115.45.6]
11 * * * Request timed out.
12 92 ms 88 ms 88 ms 159.203.76.48

Trace complete.

There's a few really bad segments there and some overall really crappy times, but it shouldn't cause 6-8 hours for a 3 gig file.

If you can't work it out, PM me and I'll upload then send you a link.

I run it, but "Status Diverter Position" doesn't light up or show anything. It just keeps going up and down as I hold down ENTER.

IMG_20171104_231452 (resized).jpg

Sounds like the leaf switch isn't making contact with the oblong wheel that trips it on each revolution, or the blade fell off. I'd look under the playfield and physically watch it make a cycle.

Not sure if this will provide anything, but here is a photo:

IMG_20171104_232106 (resized).jpg

First, in that test mode, if you manually trigger that switch with the roller does it show up as activated? If yes, continue. If no, check the wiring or replace the switch.

Then when you run the test and the off-center barrel on top is rotated around so the "fat" part is pointing down, is it making contact with the switch with the roller on it? If no, adjust so it is. If yes and it's still not triggering, loosen the lower screw and angle the switch up so it triggers when the barrel is in the "down" part of the rotation.

Any word on plastic protectors for this game being available? I see mezel has some but they’re colored and I prefer translucent.

Are there any spare/accessory power connectors on DI?

from what I understand JJP doesn't provide the 3 connector 12V extension like Stern does inside the cab. Per the recommendation of others, I ended up adding a separate 12V/3A power supply (http://a.co/6qfused) to the game that plugs directly into the service outlet on the power box in lower front right of cab. The challenge with this is that you have to make a couple simple wire modifications inside the power box to ensure that your external power supply turns off when you turn the game off...otherwise you have to fully unplug game from wall to get your mods that are plugged into the power supply to turn off.

Has jjp addressed trap door issues. Got my game last week and it looks open when booting game and I have a malfunction message . I saw in earlier postings it's an issue . Just wondered if a permanet fix is posted. Some people say to lube linkage then i saw vid about bending a tab

I sent Pam at Pinbits a full set of templates for DI. She is working on them now.

Anyone ever get the switch 13 theatre open switch? Seems like the optos failed but not sure.

i commented in your other thread, but i will leave it here too.

first thing is to check to see if the optos are plugged in. they are referenced as o3 and o4 in the manual.

Screen Shot 2017-11-05 at 10.04.46 AM (resized).png

Screen Shot 2017-11-05 at 10.04.40 AM (resized).png

I’m torn between dialing in my dialed in, and just playing it.

On the one hand, the left flipper doesn’t come up quite as far as the right. On the other hand, it’s still fun to play

I previously made the changes Lloyd suggested above and mine has been great.

LTG after code update to 1.5, my theatre magnet not working correctly anymore. It won't suck ball up and appears to have other different behavior. I've tested magnet setting from -80 to -98. Any suggestions?

adjust further. i have installed some machines where i had to set the theater magnet to -120.

I adjusted mine in test and the annoying bit is it’s inconsistent. I think I ended up on -110, and it’s pretty good, but it doesn’t always work. I tried -120 and it seemed wildly violent.

Opto switch in there working ?

LTG : )

I'm testing in test mode now and around -87 seems to be working consistently in test. Going to see what happens in game play. Quick question the more negative you go does this increase the delay between when the magnet lets the ball drop and when it re-energizes?

Thanks for the quick reply Lloyd.

.

Is there a post that lists all of the times the theatre magnet is supposed to suck the ball back up? My magnet works in test but only seems to suck ball up on hurry up.

I'm getting rejects from the right ramp on hard shots. No idea what it's hitting. Anyone else have this problem?

Try this easy fix which worked for me. Be curious if it helps others also:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/26#post-4048873

Thanks!

To everyone who has the game with JJP protectors installed: GET THE CLIFFY'S. This afternoon I took the JJP protectors out and installed the Cliffy ones - they are SO much thinner and play better, especially for the SIM shot. On my game at least the SIM shot was un-makable with the JJP protector except from a random bounce-in - a direct shot would ALWAYS get deflected away by the protector.

Top score before today, a few hundred games in since I got the game a couple weeks ago: 750k
Top score today, about 5 or so games after installing the Cliffy's: 2.9M. Collected 4 sim cards, boom!

Completely agree. JJP has rocks in their heads to try to reinvent the wheel when they have far less experience with protectors and the better solution has always been there for them for the asking.

I finally had a chance to play a DI LE and there are things I really liked and some I didn't.

The light show is fantastic and I really loved the multi color LED flash dome on the left side. That was really, really cool!

The game shoots pretty good and the software seems pretty good as well.

Overall construction seemed to be very nice.

The hologram is excellent.

But....

My #1 complaint would have been the flippers. They felt very spongy and a bit slow to react. Backhanding the left ramp was almost impossible. But, I assume some settings and adjustments can help?

The holo building routinely dropped balls back SDTM

The playfield inserts. Some looked to have some kind of strange defect. It looked like a bubble under mylar, except there's no mylar. Or maybe it was glue on the bottom of the insert.

Overall

It's a very nice game and fun to play. The total package is exceptional and I could maybe see myself owning one some day.

Rob

The flippers and the sdtm and be fixed.

So I pulled the pf up, and took a look. Seems the wheel wasn't pressing down on the switch enough to make contact. All I did was move it around with my hand a little, and it started making contact. Played a few games, and seems to be working, but I suspect this problem will reoccur. The part that looks like a leg leveller seem to only be able to adjust the diverter on top, but what adjustments could be made to ensure the switch always gets enough contact to press in that little green button? The rotating wheel doesn't seem to be adjustable, so it would maybe come down to pulling out that switch and attaching something thin on it that would close the gap that there seems to be between the wheel and the switch. Any thoughts on this?

I'm also now getting an error on coil #36, showing that the trap door is "broken".

A question for all owners. I've read more than once on this forum that the game was designed to be played at exactly 6.5 degrees. I've also read that 6.5 degrees should be achieved by having all leg levellers flat.

First off, if I put them all flat, I'm at 6.0 or less. My floor isn't perfectly flat, but it's pretty close, so not sure what that is all about.

And even at 6.5 degrees on the shooter lane bubble, when I put my small digital level at the same height of the playfield that the bubble is at, it reads as 6.3 degrees.

So, what do you guys think from you experience, is the ideal level to have this game played at?

You can also bend up the end of the micro switch slightly just like you can to adjust any micro switch to make it close a touch sooner than it does now.
Silicone to lubricate the pivot point on the trap door, and make sure Phillips screw on back plate of small trip coil bracket hasn’t loosened too much preventing door from closing. After applying silicone, work mechanism by hand a few times open and close and you’re all set.

Level - pat lawlor wants the top of the bubble just touching the second line on the level. Not scientific but that’s how he says the game should be pitched.