(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club


By goren1818

3 years ago



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There are 10524 posts in this topic. You are on page 203 of 211.
#10101 63 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Do you have any thoughts?

Yes. Some very early games slipped out with the notches on the backbox wood supports not cut out enough.

See the picture. There are 5 or 6 of those supports along the back top area of the backbox. See Frank's finger. It is pointing to the cut out position for the backglass.

That notch Frank's finger is pointing too, cut yours to match, and your backglass will live happily ever after.

When I did mine. I taped paper over all of the boards area. Then used a Dremel with a cut off wheel. Done in a few minutes. Clean up, remove the paper cover.

LTG : )

DIBackbox (resized).JPG
#10102 63 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

In the backbox swap the phone VGA connector with the theater one and see if the phone picture then goes to the theater.
LTG : )

I swapped the vga cables for the theater and the phone shows up on the theater properly. I even tried a different vga cable for the phone but it's still just black. As I stated though, it does show "vga" and a blue screen when booting. But nothing after that. It won't show the theater on the phone display either.

#10103 63 days ago

Looking to join the club. Will $7000 get a new standard edition?

#10104 63 days ago

Display is probably good. Board behind it has the issue. They are sold as a pair.

LTG : )

#10105 63 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Display is probably good. Board behind it has the issue. They are sold as a pair.
LTG : )

Damn, I've never replaced so many parts on newer pinball machines as I have my potc and di jersey jacks. Guess I'll have to try to get in touch with support, not sure if they are currently open or not

#10106 63 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

not sure if they are currently open or not

Call Steve or Barry.

I don't know the part situation with the move, and Illinois shut down.

LTG : )

#10107 63 days ago
Quoted from stevebighead:

Looking to join the club. Will $7000 get a new standard edition?

I believe they are 8k new and le are 9k..

#10108 62 days ago
Quoted from stevebighead:

Looking to join the club. Will $7000 get a new standard edition?

I picked up a HUO with 216 plays for 6k. The plays have doubled in less than a month.

#10109 62 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes. Some very early games slipped out with the notches on the backbox wood supports not cut out enough.
See the picture. There are 5 or 6 of those supports along the back top area of the backbox. See Frank's finger. It is pointing to the cut out position for the backglass.
That notch Frank's finger is pointing too, cut yours to match, and your backglass will live happily ever after.
When I did mine. I taped paper over all of the boards area. Then used a Dremel with a cut off wheel. Done in a few minutes. Clean up, remove the paper cover.
LTG : )[quoted image]

I remember a time when I was able to get the glass in/out and not feel like I had to pry the glass out of the backbox. I guess I'll do some more digging around before I start cutting any notches.

#10110 62 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

ltg At some point, I started having difficulty removing the backglass while the lock is in place. Either in the "locked" or "unlocked" position, the backglass can still move around the same. The backglass seems to be just a hair too big in order to fit through the bottom frame, or it needs to be moved up just a hair further, but I feel like the lock is impeding it's movement.
The only truly reliable way to remove the glass is to remove the security torx screws and remove the speaker panel on top, but obviously don't want to have to do that each time.
Do you have any thoughts?

I have this same issue.

LTG, thanks for posting the possible fix. I hadn't seen that before. I'll give that a try and see if it resolves the issue.

#10111 62 days ago
Quoted from stevebighead:

Looking to join the club. Will $7000 get a new standard edition?

I'd look for a nice HUO that has had all the little adjustments made already, and possibly a mod or 2.

Either way, I doubt you'll regret it!

#10112 62 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I guess I'll do some more digging around before I start cutting any notches.

Maybe the cam on the lock ? Maybe the trim on the glass not pushed on tight ?

LTG : )

#10113 62 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Maybe the cam on the lock ? Maybe the trim on the glass not pushed on tight ?
LTG : )

I might try to remove the lock first to see if that's causing it or not. I think the trim is on there tightly but again will have to check.

#10114 62 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Tests - Devices - Theater Magnet
LTG : )

Um... that only let's you change the timing and test it. Isn't there an option to make it do different things, or am I mistaken? Like make the ball wobble around and toss it I stead of try to "shadow" pass it?

#10115 61 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Well...my monitor died on my DI. First the video looks like this ->

Then eventually turns to this ->
[quoted image]
First I thought it was video card, though the two playfield screens were still working. I unplugged the DVI cable and the LED monitor still has lines on it ->
[quoted image]
Then....to make absolutely sure...plugged in an outside monitor and video works fine ->
[quoted image]
Anybody have any ideas for a replacement monitor? Looks like they are now Micro-Ray LEDs ->
[quoted image]
Maybe the video monitor has a different warranty period than other JJP pinball parts? My DI has a build date of April 6 2018.

Ok, as an update...no, the monitor is not under warranty. After talking to JJP, they wanted $600 for a new monitor replacement. What is odd...is that when I first called, I was quoted $900 for the monitor, but was quoted $600 when they replied to an email I sent.

Thankfully...my monitor was still marked with the "micro-ray" power supply, so I was able to contact them. Evidently...JJP has now required new monitor suppliers to remove the "make" of the monitors, I suppose to potentially force replacements to be bought (with a markup) through them.

Anyway, right now Micro Ray has about 40 led monitors that JJP sent back to them due to single pixel errors. Its not even a dead pixel (black) its an "always on" type pixel, which should hardly be seen when there is a bright screen (which is about always on Dialed In).

And these are $198...you can find them here -> https://micro-ray.com/27-inch-internal-monitor-for-gaming-machines/

You'll need to take off the steel mounting plate from the top of the back of the monitor and reuse that.

I did find the monitor only itself here ->
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/27-inch-lcd-computer-spare-parts_62433045843.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.0.0.433670976l3JZs

You are buying it direct from China, but they still want $138 plus shipping, and it doesn't come with the black power supply and controls, black side mounting plates, etc.

monitor (resized).jpg

Since I'm not positive that my monitor was caused by a failing LED or a failing power supply issue, I think $198 is a fair price for a product that includes both monitor and power supply, even with a bad pixel.

#10116 61 days ago

I actually wonder how many standard 27" monitors would work fine in this application.

#10117 61 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

I actually wonder how many standard 27" monitors would work fine in this application.

I don't think many....I mean, it would need to fit all of the tight constraints inside the backbox, and would need to match up with the mounting bracket. The monitors are open frame, so its just a thin sheet of metal around the led screen.

Currently its also just a DC thin power cord, where most residential use monitors use a standard computer plug.

Don't get me wrong...I bet that there is some random specific monitor that you can buy that might work...but I don't think it would cost much less than the $200 for the micro ray ones. If the $600 replacements from JJP were your only choice...yeah...I would investigate much harder to find a replacement....and I would most likely just buy the replacement LED direct from china via Alibaba and reuse the power supply.

#10118 61 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ok, as an update...no, the monitor is not under warranty. After talking to JJP, they wanted $600 for a new monitor replacement. What is odd...is that when I first called, I was quoted $900 for the monitor, but was quoted $600 when they replied to an email I sent.
Thankfully...my monitor was still marked with the "micro-ray" power supply, so I was able to contact them. Evidently...JJP has now required new monitor suppliers to remove the "make" of the monitors, I suppose to potentially force replacements to be bought (with a markup) through them.
Anyway, right now Micro Ray has about 40 led monitors that JJP sent back to them due to single pixel errors. Its not even a dead pixel (black) its an "always on" type pixel, which should hardly be seen when there is a bright screen (which is about always on Dialed In).
And these are $198...you can find them here -> https://micro-ray.com/27-inch-internal-monitor-for-gaming-machines/
You'll need to take off the steel mounting plate from the top of the back of the monitor and reuse that.
I did find the monitor only itself here ->
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/27-inch-lcd-computer-spare-parts_62433045843.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.0.0.433670976l3JZs
You are buying it direct from China, but they still want $138 plus shipping, and it doesn't come with the black power supply and controls, black side mounting plates, etc.
[quoted image]
Since I'm not positive that my monitor was caused by a failing LED or a failing power supply issue, I think $198 is a fair price for a product that includes both monitor and power supply, even with a bad pixel.

Can an admin make this a key post?

#10119 56 days ago

Hi Guys:

Proud new owner of a DI LE here, running latest code.

Is there a setting to enable me to press both flippers at the end of each ball, to 'hurry up' the bonus count, just like you can do with Stern and later Bally/Williams games?

I have been through every page of the manual, but can't find anything relating to this.

Thanks, so much.

Roger

#10120 56 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

I swapped the vga cables for the theater and the phone shows up on the theater properly. I even tried a different vga cable for the phone but it's still just black. As I stated though, it does show "vga" and a blue screen when booting. But nothing after that. It won't show the theater on the phone display either.

Suspect the screen may have lost its config. Unfortunately the only way to fix it is to get a new screen and use the buttons that come with it to re-programme it.
I had the same problem happen to mine. Swap the screen then use the buttons that come with the new screen to fix the old one.

Neil.

#10121 56 days ago
Quoted from rogerdodger:

Hi Guys:
Proud new owner of a DI LE here, running latest code.
Is there a setting to enable me to press both flippers at the end of each ball, to 'hurry up' the bonus count, just like you can do with Stern and later Bally/Williams games?
I have been through every page of the manual, but can't find anything relating to this.
Thanks, so much.
Roger

not that i am aware of.

#10122 56 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ok, as an update...no, the monitor is not under warranty. After talking to JJP, they wanted $600 for a new monitor replacement. What is odd...is that when I first called, I was quoted $900 for the monitor, but was quoted $600 when they replied to an email I sent.
Thankfully...my monitor was still marked with the "micro-ray" power supply, so I was able to contact them. Evidently...JJP has now required new monitor suppliers to remove the "make" of the monitors, I suppose to potentially force replacements to be bought (with a markup) through them.
Anyway, right now Micro Ray has about 40 led monitors that JJP sent back to them due to single pixel errors. Its not even a dead pixel (black) its an "always on" type pixel, which should hardly be seen when there is a bright screen (which is about always on Dialed In).
And these are $198...you can find them here -> https://micro-ray.com/27-inch-internal-monitor-for-gaming-machines/
You'll need to take off the steel mounting plate from the top of the back of the monitor and reuse that.
I did find the monitor only itself here ->
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/27-inch-lcd-computer-spare-parts_62433045843.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.0.0.433670976l3JZs
You are buying it direct from China, but they still want $138 plus shipping, and it doesn't come with the black power supply and controls, black side mounting plates, etc.
[quoted image]
Since I'm not positive that my monitor was caused by a failing LED or a failing power supply issue, I think $198 is a fair price for a product that includes both monitor and power supply, even with a bad pixel.

Thanks for the info. I was just going to recommend doing the same if they were going to charge 600. Wow. What a markup.

Btw back in the club. Great game. One of the best shooters and I’m one that actually likes the theme.

#10123 56 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks for the info. I was just going to recommend doing the same if they were going to charge 600. Wow. What a markup.
Btw back in the club. Great game. One of the best shooters and I’m one that actually likes the theme.

Theme is unique... unique is cool for all the haters

#10124 56 days ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

not that i am aware of.

Thank you....

#10125 56 days ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Suspect the screen may have lost its config. Unfortunately the only way to fix it is to get a new screen and use the buttons that come with it to re-programme it.
I had the same problem happen to mine. Swap the screen then use the buttons that come with the new screen to fix the old one.
Neil.

Whoa...what buttons are you referring to with the phone screen?

For the past few weeks, my phone screen has its pixels shifted upwards. When the phone turns on...full blue "VGA" screen comes up, so the pixels are still good at the bottom. But when it gets a video signal...everything is just shifted upwards.

20200331_193743 (resized).jpg

No issue with the video feed itself. Full screen video when switched to the theater ->

20200331_192937 (resized).jpg

And when theater feed is to the phone, the exact same shifting upwards:

20200331_193524 (resized).jpg

So yeah...if there are some buttons internal on the phone's motherboard (i.e. take the case off and then access some buttons on the motherboard) that can control moving the video feed up or down...that would be great.

Are you referring to some buttons like that?

#10126 55 days ago

yes but the game doest come with the buttons - the replacement screen does...

#10127 55 days ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

yes but the game doest come with the buttons - the replacement screen does...

Ok, so if you buy a replacement screen, it comes with a separate attachment with buttons. How does that connect to the phone? Is it plugged in somewhere or is it a remote control or ?

I guess my only option is to ask JJP and see if they have a bunch of extras of these button peripherals so I can fix my screen?

#10128 55 days ago

I had a screw fall out of my trap door and I fixed it, no problems for a few weeks then gave a device error. Nothing seems wrong and it started working again after pushing it up and down a couple times.

The door swings all the way to the ramp though and then falls back to a low angle. Is this normal? Ball goes through ok. Seems like it would hold a little higher though.
20200401_170354 (resized).jpg

#10129 55 days ago

Hi Guys:

I need help, please.

I have just purchased a used DI LE and I seem to have a magnets problem.

The theater magnet and drone magnet both work fine but the 3 magnets on the center of the playfield, appear to not be working. I noticed, during a game, that they don't appear to activate.

In test mode, I can hear and feel the pulse of the theater magnet and drone magnet but there is no sound or pulse from any of the 3 center magnets. This is with the playfield up, and my fingers directly touching the magnets, so I should be able to feel the pulse of the magnets in test mode..

I see from the manual that the 3 magnets are fused at F707, which is fed by F702. Both of these fuses check out OK visually and I also removed both fuses and they checked out OK with a multimeter.

The coin door interlock switches are fine as all other solenoids pulse in test mode.

The plugs & sockets for the magnets are all inserted tight and I don't know where else to look.

Help, please!

Thanks.

Roger

#10130 55 days ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I had a screw fall out of my trap door and I fixed it, no problems for a few weeks then gave a device error. Nothing seems wrong and it started working again after pushing it up and down a couple times.
The door swings all the way to the ramp though and then falls back to a low angle. Is this normal? Ball goes through ok. Seems like it would hold a little higher though.
[quoted image]

So the whole mechanism for opening/holding the door needs occasional adjustment. Things get loose, and you need to sometimes bend brackets back.

There is a sticky about it ->
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/26#post-4049572

#10131 55 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

So the whole mechanism for opening/holding the door needs occasional adjustment. Things get loose, and you need to sometimes bend brackets back.
There is a sticky about it ->
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/26#post-4049572

Awesome. Thanks!

#10132 55 days ago
Quoted from rogerdodger:

The theater magnet and drone magnet both work fine but the 3 magnets on the center of the playfield, appear to not be working. I noticed, during a game, that they don't appear to activate.

Check the fuses. See if the LED next to them is on. The fuse stream is on page D-114 in the manual. Looks like F707 and F702 are involved.

You can download the manual if you need it from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - Dialed In

LTG : )

#10133 55 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check the fuses. See if the LED next to them is on. The fuse stream is on page D-114 in the manual. Looks like F707 and F702 are involved.
You can download the manual if you need it from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - Dialed In
LTG : )

Thank you, Lloyd and your help is very much appreciated.

F702 tests good, both visually and with a meter.

However the LED next to it (marked D702) is not lit. Fuse is in it's holder nice and tight.

All other fuse LEDs are lit.

What now?

#10134 55 days ago
Quoted from rogerdodger:

...
However the LED next to it (marked D702) is not lit. Fuse is in it's holder nice and tight.
...
What now?

Is the fuse good?

#10135 55 days ago
Quoted from altan:

Is the fuse good?

Yes. See my previous post

#10136 55 days ago
Quoted from rogerdodger:

F702 tests good, both visually and with a meter.

Cool.

Did you pull it and check with a meter ?

If so, then you lost power to that fuse, somehow.

LTG : )

#10137 55 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Cool.
Did you pull it and check with a meter ?
If so, then you lost power to that fuse, somehow.
LTG : )

Yes, Lloyd.... Fuse checked with meter and all good.

You say power is lost to that fuse. Can you suggest where I look or how I find the power loss?

I do have the manual but I can't read a circuit diagram.

Thanks.

#10138 55 days ago
Quoted from rogerdodger:

Yes, Lloyd.... Fuse checked with meter and all good.
You say power is lost to that fuse. Can you suggest where I look or how I find the power loss?
I do have the manual but I can't read a circuit diagram.
Thanks.

I had this happen on my Pirates. Find the big white connector near the transformer in the bottom of the cabinet. Push each wire firmly into the connector. One of mine wasn't fully seated into the connector. It's worth a try.

#10139 55 days ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I had this happen on my Pirates. Find the big white connector near the transformer in the bottom of the cabinet. Push each wire firmly into the connector. One of mine wasn't fully seated into the connector. It's worth a try.

Tried unplugging and plugging back all connectors and pushing wires/pins into the socket firmly.

No luck but I appreciate you trying to help me.

#10140 55 days ago
Quoted from rogerdodger:

Tried unplugging and plugging back all connectors and pushing wires/pins into the socket firmly.

Could be a problem on the I/O board then.

I'd open a ticket on it.

LTG : )

#10141 55 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Could be a problem on the I/O board then.
I'd open a ticket on it.
LTG : )

OK. Thank you for your help

#10142 54 days ago

Any tips on getting Theatre Multiball? I understand the concept, but I've never made it. I think getting through drones is the hardest part for me.

#10143 54 days ago
Quoted from davisjl1979:

Any tips on getting Theatre Multiball? I understand the concept, but I've never made it. I think getting through drones is the hardest part for me.

Usually when my theater shots are "lit", i have to weigh what's currently happening before I take the shot to fill that requirement. If I'm going really well on a mode, then no, I focus on completing the mode. If the mode is too far gone and a theater shot is available, I'll take it. If nothing is going on and it's available, I'll take it. Otherwise, I'll just continue playing on and trying to get my SIM cards. It's not something that I typically ever do intentionally.

Drones are the hardest one for me too, probably because if you hit the drone target, the magnet flings your ball away into unsafe circumstances. It's not something that I ever go for unless it's Drone MB.

#10144 54 days ago
Quoted from rogerdodger:

Hi Guys:
I need help, please.
I have just purchased a used DI LE and I seem to have a magnets problem.
The theater magnet and drone magnet both work fine but the 3 magnets on the center of the playfield, appear to not be working. I noticed, during a game, that they don't appear to activate.
In test mode, I can hear and feel the pulse of the theater magnet and drone magnet but there is no sound or pulse from any of the 3 center magnets. This is with the playfield up, and my fingers directly touching the magnets, so I should be able to feel the pulse of the magnets in test mode..
I see from the manual that the 3 magnets are fused at F707, which is fed by F702. Both of these fuses check out OK visually and I also removed both fuses and they checked out OK with a multimeter.
The coin door interlock switches are fine as all other solenoids pulse in test mode.
The plugs & sockets for the magnets are all inserted tight and I don't know where else to look.
Help, please!
Thanks.
Roger

Problem solved!

The door interlock switch was flaky, stopping the high voltage getting through to the problem areas.

Replaced the interlock switch and all is good.

I'm so happy that it was not a board problem!!

Thanks to those who tried to help me solve this.

Roger

#10145 54 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ok, so if you buy a replacement screen, it comes with a separate attachment with buttons. How does that connect to the phone? Is it plugged in somewhere or is it a remote control or ?
I guess my only option is to ask JJP and see if they have a bunch of extras of these button peripherals so I can fix my screen?

Ok....luckily JJP has an extra "menu board" that attaches to the phone monitor that they are sending to me. I assume I'll need to open up the phone and directly connect it somehow (which is a pain), though not sure how it attaches.

#10146 54 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

though not sure how it attaches.

Plugs onto an open connector on the board inside the phone.

LTG : )

#10147 54 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

though not sure how it attaches.

Quoted from LTG:

Plugs onto an open connector on the board inside the phone.

LTG : )

DSC00210 (resized).JPG
#10148 54 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

LTG : )[quoted image]

Ok...so that is the menu board...and I see the board with the buttons. I also see a VGA connector...is that the connector I'll be using? So all I would need to do is hookup the VGA connector to the back of the phone? And its able to access the phone menu by the video input stream?

or...do I need to open up the phone and connect a ribbon cable from this board to a board in the phone?

#10149 54 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

So all I would need to do is hookup the VGA connector to the back of the phone?

You already have a VGA connector to the back of the phone. That is where the picture comes from.

Quoted from Gogdog:

do I need to open up the phone and connect a ribbon cable from this board to a board in the phone?

To adjust the monitor, yes. I don't think there is room to leave it in there.

LTG : )

#10150 53 days ago

Just to be clear - where to get the extra board with the adjustment buttons? Just in case, good to know.

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