I picked up this one prior to christmas

mondo creature.JPG

hehe. so do I. restoration starts as soon as my playfield gets back from HSA and has time to cure

if I recall correctly, metal rails were installed on playfields that were slightly warped or bowed.

don't forget the animation when you complete the creature's signpost in MB. definitely one of the highlights of beautiful animation for me

I believe that they are made out of a mylar type material, however they just lie in place (not adhesive backed). and unfortunately, BBA has been out of stock on the cftbl playfield protector (along with many others) for months now. I have no idea if they plan on restocking them

you are correct. those are diodes (and not capacitors) soldered to the blades of the micro switches.

it's possible that you may just need to adjust the switch wire a bit so that the when the ball travels over the wire, it's moving it enough to trigger the micro switch. I would give that a try first since you stated that in the switch test mode, you're able to trigger them with your fingers.

(you should also replicate the scenario of the ball moving over the switch wire in switch test mode to see if the ball can successfully trigger the switch)

ok. for the blade type switches, you should really get yourself one of these (a leaf switch tool):
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1518

and then read up on vid's guide to rebuilding pop bumpers and scroll down to here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers#post-486047

he covers in great depth how the leaf switches should be adjusted

F116 will blow because there is already a ton of stuff running through that circuit. the speaker panel mod and a colorDMD (if you own one), just add [even] more draw.

you can try moving the speaker panel to the 115 or 117 connector, but I would also check the condition of your flasher bulbs in the backbox. bulbs that are old and on their way out will also draw more current in order to stay lit.

a friend of mine had the same issues that you're having (he also had pinballmiked's LED mod in his machine), and once he removed the flashers from his backbox, everything seemed to stabilize.

hehe

I found creech to be a utter bear when I first got mine (the increased 1/8" space between the flippers makes a huge difference). he's right, getting a score even close to 100M felt satisfying. I still haven't cracked the 1B barrier, but my games are much more respectable.

unfortunately, that price is nowhere near what an NOS hologram goes for today. the last few that were up on ebay sold for well north of $1K.

you could always go for the reproduction that pinball-dreams did (and pps sells), but I believe its priced around the $400 mark, so it might also be out of your price range.

if you do manage to get a hold of a time machine and go back to somewhere near 1994, could you pick me up a few of them for the msrp of $22?

great work from pinball life getting those light baffles done. I mentioned this to james loflin [previously of pinballinc.com] quite a while back (and apparently it's still on their "short list" of things to re-run)

looks fantastic jady! great job

mike is going to be running the LCD mod again at some point. probably after he is done with moving house or in the spring of this year

according to the flyer (and the original bill of material specs), the legs are "supposed be" black w/ silver vein (which can be purchased from pinball life and marco's)


qty part no. part description / used on games
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
(4) C-10843-1 bally metl leg assy CftBL


http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-19514-3
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1164

however, most (if not all) of the machines actually shipped with chrome legs

1.4

was hoping for pps to actually do something with their so-called wpc 2.0, but that dream seems to have died on the vine.

a dream scenario for me would be for them to correct the bugs in the software as well as potentially change the dots to something like stern has (12 levels of grey scale), although its probably not do-able to do it and be able to support the older gas-plasma technology

sorry, I meant L4

well north of $1K the last time that I saw one available and it looks like the reproductions from pinball-dreams are all gone as well

the price that I quoted (over $1K) was for a brand new, still in the package, NOS original hologram

is it just me or does that "hologram" look funny? I've never seen one where the creature appears to be just a bust (waist up only?!?)

what do you mean by slide objective?

the slide shot awards you the 'M' for F-I-L-M

the slide animation is supposed represent sliding down a playground slide. I'm not sure why what the breaking glass at the end of the animation represents

if you're asking why they called it the 'slide' and what does it mean? that harkens back to the time of the drive-in theaters where there were children's playgrounds in front of the screen. parents would allow their kids to go and play on the slides, swings, jungle gym's and other playground objects (hence the 'playground award') until it became dark enough for the movie(s) to start

ah, gotcha now.

yeah, I never really thought about it, but you're correct.

the 'F' can be completed with one well timed plunge, otherwise it requires upwards of 4 shots
the 'I' needs 4 shots to complete, but is made easier by acquiring one of the snack bar signs by hitting the snack bar hole
and the 'L' can be completed with a single shot to the flashing lane, otherwise 4 shots to complete 'P-A-I-D'

but with the 'M', you only have to shoot it once. although, because you only need to hit it once, doing so (out of turn) negates the sequence film sequence award (an extra 8M in bonus points)

correct. when you start a ball, you'll notice that the K-I-S-S light cycle. K only, then K-I lit, K-I-S, K-I-S-S and finally no lights (rinse, repeat)

as fiberdude120 stated, if you perform a full plunge when all four lights are lit, they should cycle back to all lit when the switch is triggered by the ball, awarding you K-I-S-S and the 'F' in F-I-L-M in one shot.

additionally, on subsequent ball launches, the remaining lights will cycle, allowing you the chance to complete the remaining letters with a plunge

practice, practice, practice
what was awarded when you attempted it? if it was 3 lights (K-I-S), then you just need to wait a second longer before plunging. if it was nothing, then you need to plunge just a bit faster

unfortunately, jeff thompson hasn't been on pinside for well over a year. there was rumor that he was going to produce another run of his fantastic speaker panel mod, but it doesn't seem to have ever happened.

to each his own. it's your machine. you can keep it as stock as you'd like or dress it up to your heart's content. don't let anyone tell you what you can and cannot do with your toys

the flasher bulb is a #89. here's the link to the original incandescent part: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/04-0089
alternatively, there are a lot of LED alternatives: http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=%2389
macro's specialties is just one of many places that sell the parts. cometpinball.com, pinballlife.com and cointaker.com (in no particular order) are other great sites that offer a lot of options

see my answer to #2 above
btw, the "britebuttons" kits that pinball life sells supposedly do not leak light into the cabinet. if you were to light up your flipper buttons, this might be a good option to look into
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3760

some people like super bands, others prefer titan pinball's silicone rubber and others will only use original rubber. it's best to try out each (they don't cost that much all things considered) and use what you think works best

the tapered rubber block just to the left makes the shot a difficult one, however as others have suggested, take a look at the scoop itself. over time, it can become bent or loose and slightly shift, making the shot even more difficult.
a new snackbar scoop is relatively cheap if yours is beat up
http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=01-10707

there are a few ways that you can light up the pop bumper areas. always one, registering a hit with the associated coil, lighting up when the opposite "lightning bolt" on the playfield lites up, etc...

pinbits.com sells a kit for accomplishing this one way
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_6&products_id=143&zenid=dd22ba56283edff957a808f18db3b465

alternatively, there is a lot of great information out "there" for lighting them up
"the korn" (vince) has a fantastic write-up here: http://www.thekorn.net/cftbl/

and here on pinside, there is a really long thread with a lot of good suggestions:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cftbl-pop-bumper-mod

http://www.kansaspinball.com/popbumpermods.htm

hope this helps you out, and welcome to the club!

I still have an NOS original b/w one (still brand new in the original package, slated for my restoration). I'll post a picture tonight when I get home

edit:
found a photo of the packaging, so here it is
IMG_1137_(resized).jpg

that depends on how the jumpers on the CPU board are set. a US game defaults to 'normal', whereas an export game defaults to 'hard'
there are a bank of 0 ohm jumpers on the CPU board that tell the machine what country it is for (and the reason that I bring this up is that I have a US game, but the CPU board had been swapped out at some point prior to my obtaining it, and had jumpers indicating that it was a GERMAN game

I couldn't for the life of me figure out why my game settings appeared to be more difficult than 2 friends who also owned a CftBL. on the 'hard' setting, putting the ball into the snackbar doesn't score one of the F-I-L-M letters like it does on the 'medium' setting.
additionally, the pop bumpers to not cycle the lit F-I-L-M stand-up targets like they are in the 'medium' game settings as well.

game settings
us/canada vs. international settings
CPU board diagram

the machine was NOT manufactured with a center post

any machine that you've seen "in the wild" having one was modified by someone who thought that the game was too difficult with that signature Trudeau flipper gap, so they added one to increase play times

cliffy makes an oversized snackbar hole protector. shoot him an email with a photo and verify that it will cover up all of your existing damage.

if not, you may have to apply some wood filler to shrink the hole size and then use the oversized cliffy protector

this one?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-7036

and if that doesn't work, reflow the 2 crescent shaped areas that those 555 sockets twist into. you may have to add a bit of solder to the existing crescents, but between that and dmacy's suggestion, it should do the trick

lyonsden that looks really nice. I especially love what you did with the curly ramp chase lights

$20 for both the snackbar and kiss scoop cliffy's? if so, sold! shoot me a pm with the details

I spoke with rick (PPS) a number of months ago about having them re-made and he told me that it was "on his list of things to do"

others may want to reach out to him as well (the more people that request the part might help it get moved up in priority

with the number of CftBL machines produced and jeff re-emerging back to pinside to build more of these, we just need to get CPR and PPS to produce another run of the speaker panel plastics

personally, I think they should just do the deluxe and the enhanced versions since there are still some of the standard ones floating about

normally, I'm not a fan of the weird powder coats, but that one does look incredible. very subtle

were you planning on doing the side rails as well?

I've actually been working on something for myself for my CftBL for the past 3 years on and off (it kept getting bumped to the back of the line by other projects

it will probably not be something that I will market and sell (due to the costs and the complexity of it), but the gist is to replace all 3 of the PETG signposts and their incandescent bulbs with LCD panels. the panels will appear [mostly] dark and static and then will light up and animate the active mode

here's an example of the animations for right side panel that I'm pretty happy with now. I've begun coding the logic on how I will trigger and animation the specific areas based on which mode is active
cftbl - right signpost v1.gif

I'm reaching out and will attempt to work with swinks on bringing an [affordable] version of the signpost mod that will illuminate the various sections from behind (and eliminating those incandescent bulb holes in the plastics

since I never had any intention of marketing my project (I can't see people wanting to pay upwards of $500+ for the mod, let alone me wanting to support all of the potential technical issues), this solution might be a good alternative for those looking for something a little different than the stock plastics

[re]move your cars!

unless treasure cove has changed their source material, their product was not that great. the greens were off for the seaweed and lacking the white highlights as well

it's probably one of the 3 completely clear plastic pieces that were added to keep the ball from falling off the ramps at those points. pinbits.com sells a complete set of these 3 pcs
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_6&products_id=36&zenid=6dc944d7a26191d58ef432bfa146bc8e

I'm not near my machine to take a photo for you, but if I don't forget, I'll update this photo with a photo or 2 later today

btw, only 3 of the flasher light blockers are used. pinbits.com just included a 4th extra one in their set. you could probably use the 4th one on the 2nd flasher, but you would need to drill another hole for the screw to hold it in place (something I personally would avoid doing

highclasspinballs is mirco? good to hear but his website needs some work

here's a link for a company local to you:
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/20-9253-7.html

that's kind of specific. almost a specific as this

NoMonkey
pm'ed you about your set of plastics

if your bowl is leveled and the switch set properly, many people are reporting 5-6 (or as many as 8 )
you might want to check out this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/creature-bowl-tweaked

just pm'ed you

I've heard that one of the reasons why mike hasn't reproduced his version of the mod (in addition to them being a pain in the @ss to put together) is that it led to a lot more support calls than he anticipated and I get that.

most people have no problem installing a rubber kit or LEDs on their machines, but with mods that requires you to actually understand what is going on, a lot of them tend to get stumped rather easily and don't bother to do any research on their own before reaching out for help (even if there are guides "out there"

if you look at his AC/DC concert mod, I had post the simple 4-step process because people didn't understand how to patch their .bin files using pinball browser when stern released the latest firmware update

the other issue is due to it being based on raspberry pi technology which isn't very good about "file clean up", especially when power is turned off and the pi is in the middle of updating a file. this can lead to corrupt SD cards and most of his customers didn't understand how to make a back-up of the SD card so that if it did become corrupt, they would have a file to re-image it

wish that I would have seen this yesterday
pretty sweet shirt

check the lamp boards. you may have to re-flow either or both the header and the pads that those 555 sockets twist into

there is a block of dip switches on the backside of the board. there is one switch (and it may be the only one that jeff programmed for) that does exactly what dmacy described

you can either have the lights come on, brighten and then fade out (in pairs) or set it to have all of the brake lights stay on all the time. I'm not sure which dip switch does this (it's been quite a while since I looked at it). it might be documented in the assembly instructions

yep, I knew it was something. it's a jumper, not a dip switch (and I thought that more than one was there, but again I could be wrong since I haven't looked at it in quite a while

link?

or you can add a 470 ohm resistor to the bulb socket

wow! I love the art style for the 2nd card

a couple of comments though. I think that it would look better without the universal monsters logo (which is already on the apron) and the 'number 1' triangle. you've already got a "premiere issue" explosion, so both the 'number 1' and monsters logos are just a bit redundant (especially with it being right next to each other

maybe slide the creature over a bit more to the left and slide the bally logo up to take the place of the universal monsters logo?

if you could do something in a similar art style for the left side card with the rules/instructions, I would definitely like to purchase a set of these from you

I will add to this that not all factory original holograms exhibited this issue. some believe that it had to do with exposure to sunlight.

there have been no less than 3 reproduction hologram or hologram like replacement products which fit into the metal carrier of the original hologram.
- IPC's hologram (illinois pinball company). many people reported that this one was not produced correctly and all of these holograms turned to red and then to all black quickly. additionally, many of these appeared to have horizontal computer ribbon printer banding throughout the image.
- IPC's lenticular [mess]. this was produced as an "on the cheap" solution that functioned like the original tron and avatar 3D translites, but didn't even feature an authentic image of the creature (if I can find a photo of it again, I will post it since it was rather humorous looking
- pinball dreams officially licensed hologram. these were re-produced from scratch about 2-3 years ago with a new model being crafted instead of using the original or the japanese garage kit that it was crafted from and making a new hologram glass [master]. additionally, both the angle that the model was captured at and the additional [closer] claw were not implemented, making the finished product look a bit different than the original. however, this was the best non-original [hologram] solution produced to date

pinballmiked produced a raspberry pi product about 5-6 years ago that replaced the hologram carrier and oscillating mirror with an LCD flat panel monitor and many video clips utilizing original movie footage and newly created computer generated imagery

edit:
removed line indicating that PPS is sold out

slightly blurry? yes

it couldn't hurt to replace the caps, 25+ years is a long time. and depending on how long the machine sat unplayed, the electrolytic capacitors can [expire] faster

in a semi-related topic, I pulled out my turbo express (portable turbo grafx-16 video game system) out to play some devil's crush pinball about 3 weeks ago, only to find that neither the video or sound worked any more. a quick search on the 'net uncovered that "yep", this was a common issue and by replacing all of caps (there are 16 surface mount cans and 2 axials) usually takes care of all known issues.

I've started looking into the organic solid polymer electrolytic caps, but unless you're putting them into something that has a high value and that you plan on keeping for a while, the price difference between them and the standard aluminium electrolytics makes it a difficult choice

J115, 116 and 117 all tie to the same 5v

you can pigtail off of the same one connector or just use another, however CftBL is a game that is known to have issues if you attempt to run too many extra "features" (aka mods) at the same time

if you don't feel comfortable attempting to flame polish, then don't. you're probably better off either:
- cleaning them with novus 3 and dealing with how they are
or
- cleaning them with novus 3, then sell them as used (you'll get slightly more if you take the time to clean up as best you can first)
- purchase and install a new set of ramps

either way, you'll be amazed at much different the game looks when the ramps are completely clear and you can see through them to the playfield!

I think that he was looking for a definition for MRS (rule of thumb, if you're going to use acronyms, spell out what they mean at least once

MRS = magnetic reed switch

sufficed to say, the hologram that you replaced does not appear to be the original hologram supplied by bally, but rather one of the other reproduction holograms

the first place that I would check is the chase lamp board. could be a bad transistor

about the only way you're going to find them is to find a completely trashed game that's been parted out and salvage them
the magnetic reed switch(es) that were used in the following b/w games:
cactus canyon (5)
cirqus voltaire (1)
nba fastbreak (7)
no good gofers (5)
revenge from mars (3)
safe cracker (3)
star wars: episode 1 (2)

given that cactus canyon (903 made), nba fastbreak (4414 made) and no good gofers (2711 made) used as many as they did for each machine, I'm really surprised that this part hasn't been reproduced by now

I'll be interested to see the results of your clean up on that nasty transformer. here's how mine turned out

I completely stripped it and soaked the brackets to remove all of the old varnish. replaced the screws and nylon insulators with new ones and wire brushed the transformer block and masked it all off before repainting it
transformer (resized).jpg

pinball life sells the nylon insulators:
https://www.pinballlife.com/ballywilliams-transformer-screw-insulator.html

I don't remember the size of the 4 screws off hand

that looks like the movie poster mod that I helped swinks (jady) develop. I believe that he sold the rights to sparky, who ended up producing and selling it. the plug coming from the inverter for the EL wire needs to be 12v and the connection to the display panel itself requires a 5v connection.

I use both a mantis and cliffy on my RFM and don't have any issues.

I think with CftBL, it's more the flowerpot rubber and the scoop itself that cause rejections. I would check to see if the weldment on the snackbar scoop has given and the scoop is bent backwards a bit after years of being struck

no playfield is hard enough to prevent ball strike damage. it's wood against steel. older games don't tend to show the abuse as much due to one of the two following conditions:
1. the ball never leaves the surface of the playfield (no air balls = no dimpling)
2. the ball(s) have dimpled the playfield so much that it has compressed the top layer(s) of wood so that the dimpling is no longer as noticable

CftBL is a game that doesn't have too many places where air balls can occur, however the drop area from the whirlpool, low ball sling rubber rings, bent snack bar targets and the inverted flowerpot rubber left of the snackbar hole can cause air balls that lead to ball strikes and dimpling

the asic is the large square chip on the mpu board. make sure that you remove the board from your machine and are supporting the board from the back side under the chip(s) that you are attempting to reseat so that you are not flexing and causing unnecessary stress on the board.

while you have the board out, I would also check for cold solder joints on the connectors (especially those for the ribbon cables leading to the other boards in the backbox) and reflow the ones that look suspect

to be a bit more specific. you need to spell F-I-L-M to light the lit spotlight entries (left and right orbit shots) to start multi-ball

'F' is completed by shooting the KISS shot (left orbit) a total of 4 times (or as a [hard plunge] skill shot reward with proper timing. during the start of a ball, the [unscored] K-I-S-S letters cycle (adding each letter). when all 4 letters are still required, a hard plunge when the 'K' is lit will (usually) award all 4 letters in a single shot. 'K' and all of the lit letters are scored on the plunge when the ball passes down over the roll over switch
'I' is completed by completing the 4 stand-up targets in the center of the playfield near the snack bar. depending on the game settings, scoring the snack bar will award the next required light (alternatively, the pop bumpers will cycle the awarded target when the snack bar shot is made
'L' is completed by completing the lanes at the top of the playfield. L is achieved as a [skill shot] by scoring the flashing lane on a soft plunge. lit/unlit lanes can be cycled using the left and right flipper buttons
'M' is completed by scoring the slide shot (right orbit)

once all F-I-L-M letters have all been made, a 2-ball multi-ball is started by shooting either brightly strobing KISS (left) or Slide (right) orbit shot

during the 2-ball multi-ball, shooting a ball up the left ramp will divert the ball down into the whirlpool. carefully timed nudging can increase the number of revolutions that the ball makes (when in the whirlpool) to increase the multi-ball 'jackpot' bonus multiplier. each [x] multiplier are achieved by scoring 7 revolutions (spelling C-R-E-A-T-U-R-E while in the whirlpool

while in multi-ball, you have to 'rescue' the girl by making the correct shot (KISS, snack bar or SLIDE shot). once you have rescued the girl

the 'jackpot' is collected by making the snack bar shot after rescuing the girl, and the super jackpot collected after collecting the jackpot, making 50 pop bumper shots and then making the snack bar shot a 2nd time

the point value of the jackpot is increased (during the game) by pop bumper shots during the game and the jackpot multiplier is based number of times C-R-E-A-T-U-R-E is spelled in the whirlpool

if you drain a ball while in multi-ball, you have [x] number of seconds to restart the multi-ball mode by making the snack bar shot with the remaining active ball

I would have given you a thumbs up, but $1K? I can't believe that you're seriously going to attempt to gouge someone for over 100% more than you originally paid for it

I just received my mirrored backglass today and wow! it's simply beautiful

9D12D434-58AB-430B-8527-92EB88195906 (resized).jpeg

I still need to pick up all of the plastic framing rails to put it in my machine. I'll do that next week when I'm @ expo

I finally ordered the trim for my mirrored backglass. I'm hoping that it doesn't suffer from the same issues that chris hutchins ran into with the radical one that CPR did (but I'll bet it does
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/107#post-5282466

maybe I should have ordered the 3/16" channels instead of the 1/8" channels from pinball life (although, I do not see a 3/16" option for the lift channel
https://www.pinballlife.com/316-wide-backglass-side-and-top-trim-various-lengths.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/backglass-lift-channel-for-williams-system-11.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/backglass-top-trim-for-williams-system-11.html

I ordered 3 pcs. of the top trim and cut down 2 of them to use for the sides rather than ordering the pieces made for the sides. I've never liked the fact that the side pieces were too short and had a large gap between the lift channel and top piece (producing light bleed from behind)

unlike the parts that I initially ordered and were way too tight, these parts worked perfectly

installation tips:
take your time when fitting the lift channel (I positioned it correctly [centering it]), but then fit it from one end and working the glass all the way into the channel little by little, moving down the width of the glass. it does take some force to get it to fit the glass all the way into the channel

the side and top trim pieces are a lot easier to install but still are very secure once on
CftBL backglass (resized).jpg

sorry for the lengthy post, but I found this in my emails from long ago and should help with the order of taking off and putting things back together

Creature From The Black Lagoon (CFTBL) Shop Out Guide
There are pictures online at [http://www.theteardown.com] www.theteardown.com

1.1 parts to have on hand

- bulbs
- twenty or so #44 or #47
- a box of #86 for the ramp lights

- if you want to put lights in your jet bumpers, get 3 light sockets. there are lots of ways to do this. you can tie them to the GI circuit so they are on all the time,
you can tie them to the lightning bolts so they work just like the test menu - separate lights for left, right and center, or you can make them flash when the jet
bumpers are activated. Google rec.games.pinball for more information
- rubber ring kit - see chart at end
- replacements for anything that is obviously broken and probably a cliffy protector for the snack bar hole

1.2 start

1. remove the 3 pinballs

2. raise the playfield and disconnect all harness connections leading to the ramps (basically any wire bundle running to the topside of the playfield). make sure that
all of the [disconnected] wire harnesses can pass through the holes unencumbered

note: when disconnecting each harness connection, label both ends of the connectors to eliminate any guess work as to which connectors pair back up when it’s time
for reassembly. use a sharpie permanent marker (or id-tag zip ties) and label both ends of the connector with the same letter/number/symbol

3. remove the straight wire form leading from the bowl to the circular (curly) ramp
- 5/8" phillips sems screw with washers on top and bottom and sems nut on bottom

4. remove the “snack bar” sign
- nylock nut

5. remove the circular (curly) ramp with film strip credits stickers on it
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with washers top and bottom on hex post by snack bar hole
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with washers on top on hex post of left side of wire form
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with washers top and bottom on hex post at rear

6. remove the "big millions" sign
- nylock nut

7. remove the right ramp
- (2) 1/4" screws shoulder washer on entrance
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with thick washer on top on slingshot hex post

8. remove the wire form at "start movie" [right side]
- 3/8" hex head machine screw with washer at rear
- 1-1/2" wood screw with washer at bottom in rail

9. remove the bowl
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with thick washer on top and two smaller 3/8" washers under plastic tab on hex post by right flipper
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with smaller washer on top and thick washer under plastic tab on top of the hex post on shooter rail
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with thick washer on top of bracket

10. remove the apron [and the wires underneath]
- 1-1/4" white posts with 1-3/4" wood screws holding wire holders on shooter frame

11. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-13) on left side of shooter lane

12. remove the VUK wire [above the right slingshot]
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with washer on top and under hex post on slingshot
- 5/8" phillips sems screw with washer on playfield

13. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-20) [right of] the left ramp entrance
- disconnect and remove the wire for the “big millions” sign

14. remove the “snack bar” plastic (part no. 31-1698-3)
- 1/2" machine screw with washer on post with rubber sleeve and clear plastic protector under plastic at post

15. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-7) [left of] the "move your car" lane
- remove the wire harness for the ramp lights (mark the harness, since it is unique)

16. remove the “unlimited millions” sign (part no. 31-1698-9) in left corner

17. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-10) under the “unlimited millions” sign

18. remove the right side of the steel ramp in the left corner
- 2 hex head screws

19. remove the 5-5/8" overall length hex post with washer on playfield next to left ramp arm

20. remove the rod that raises the ramp flap - use pliers to hold the screw

21. raise the playfield and remove the left ramp assembly in the left bottom corner

22. remove the left ramp
- 3/8" screw with shoulder washer with washers on top and bottom of ramp on next post on shooter rail
- 2 wood screws in ramp flap
- phillips sems screw with washer on top and bottom on post to left of left jet bumper

raise the ramp flap and slide the plastic ramp to the right and remove

23. loosen the plastic (part no. 31-1698-1) in left corner
- self tapping phillips screw with washer into (wooden/metal) playfield rail

NOTE: you may not be able to completely remove the plastic because of the steel ramp, but you need to get under it to remove the steel ramp

24. remove the left side of steel ramp with ramp flap
- 3 hex head wood screws

25. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-1) in corner that you just loosened
- remove “unlimited millions” sign wire harness

26. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-18) [right side of] the “move your car” lane
- remove “super jackpot” sign wire harness

27. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-15) in upper right corner

28. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-4) above the left out lane

29. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-5) above the right out lane

30. remove the left and right sling shot plastics (part no.s 31-1698-4 & 31-1698-5)
- 1-1/2" FF hex post with washer on top of plastic on top of the slings

31. remove the bottom lane guides

32. remove the jet bumper caps

33. remove the under playfield troughs
- the left metal trough has wood screws underneath holding the ball guide and shorter hex head screws

34. remove the orange star posts
- all 6 of the slings posts are singles
- 4 singles above the left and right out lanes

note: the 2 interior posts are 6-32 with 1/4" tops rather than 3/16"

- 2 double posts [behind and to the right of] "snack bar" hole with 2 rings
- 2 single posts [to the right of] the "extra ball" insert, bottom has phillips screw
- 2 double posts [to the left of] the jet bumpers with phillips screws
- 2 double posts [to the left of] the "start movie" hole - bottom has hex head wood screw
- 3 double posts [to the right of] jets have phillips head screws
- 3 single posts [left of] the top lane guides with phillips head screws on bottom 2
- 4 single posts [right of] the of top lane guides, bottom 2 phillips screws

35. remove the 3 top orange lane dividers
- all have phillips screws
- these wood screws are slightly longer than the rest of the wood screws

36. remove the orange tube on right side rail by the "L" in "starlight"

37. remove the 4 ball gates including one with the switch on the “move your car” lane
- 1/4" shoulder washer screw in upper left ball gate on rubber sleeved post
- all gates have washers on top of white posts under frames
- upper right side gate has washer on top of frame on the star post
- lower left ball gate has cut edges that line up with side rail

38. remove the 15 white nylon posts
- all but 2 have wood screw posts
- the post on left between movie and video insert has a 6-32 w- 1/4" top metal screw
- the post in the upper left corner [to the right of corner white post] has a phillips screw

39. remove hex posts - washers on top of playfield under posts
- 5-1/4" overall height (M-F) by the left foot of the frogman below the bottom jet
- 4-3/16" overall height (M-F) to left of the red car in the "move your car" lane
- 4-3/16" overall height (M-F) northwest of the left jet
- 1-1/8" overall height (F-F) on shooter rail [at bottom]
- 2" overall height (F-F) on shooter rail [at top]

40. remove the metal tubes (1-15/16" overall height) used as adjustable posts
- large 5/8" washer under tubes
- sems nut under playfield

41. remove the 3 metal posts by the "S" in "starlight"
- have washers on playfield under posts

42. shooter gauge has self shoulder wood screws

43. remove the 8 metal posts with black sleeves and nuts under playfield

44. remove the ramp holder on left side rail

45. remove the bowl brackets on right side rail

46. raise the playfield and remove the shroud around creature window
- shorter gold colored hex head screws

47. remove the creature window
- nylock nuts with washers under nylocks

48. remove hardware on back board

NOTE: there are 20 #44 bulbs and 8 #89 bulbs on the playfield

1.3 ring chart
the machine shipped with [White] rings and [red] flipper rings

Creature From The Black Lagoon Rubber Ring List

rings
inside diameter qty
5/16" 2
3/4" 3
1" 4
1-1/4" 1
1-1/2" 4
2" 2
2-1/2" 2

flipper rings
inside diameter qty
std 1-1/2" [red] 2

other qty
rubber sleeve (black) 9
shooter tip 1
3/4" tapered bumper 1
ring bumper (23-6535) 6
white rubber ring (23-6641-1) 8

total per game: 43

Changes from manual - added 2 black sleeves for adjustable post bumpers

End of guide

this is called out on page 1-35 of the owners manual and page 3-2

ground short (resized).png

check the white-green (white w/ green stripe) wire running on your switch harness for the following switches to determine where you have a ground issue
row 5 (resized).png

https://pinballwizard.nl/contents/en-us/p1172_onderdelen_flipperkast_flipper_williams_reparatie_parts.html

edit:
additionally I reached out to marco specialties to see if they have the correct part using the photo that That_Pin_Dude provided above

edit2:
steve from marco's replied back
they ordered the wrong socket and will remedy the issue shortly with the correct one

cliffy sells those. I provided him with the dimensions a few years ago

I just ordered the white ones from comet and plan to dye the nylon [socket] portion black so that they look more like the incandescent versions.
I wasn't a fan of either the green or purple (just over the top in my opinion) and the fact the nylon sockets were an off putting corresponding green/purple

I don't think that you really want to tap in the service outlet. you do realize that the outlet is "live" even when the machine isn't turned on, correct? the way mike has tapped in further down stream, the connection is only live when the game is turned on.

that looks correct (although, I can't see where the 4th C or E rings are located). there are many pre-built kits on titan's website (depending on what color rings that you want)

a replacement hologram *was* designed, produced and offered about 4 years ago by pinball dreams

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-15953HOL

threads on it can be found here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/creature-holo-reproduction
and here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/creature-holo-repro-infos-pics-video-and-preorderlist#post-900934

and while not exactly the same as the original, pinball dreams did a fantastic job reproducing it

I've still been working on completing animations here and there over the past couple of years but other projects have always come up and taken precedence (the joust playfields and plastics w/ CPR for and restoring a couple of atari warlords cocktail machines for example.

I did recently pull everything out of the archives again and start working on it which has led to me reworking many of the [unfinished] animations that I started years ago (I'm still a perfectionist to my own detriment). I'm hoping to put together a breadboard with the circuitry to create the necessary interface between the displays and the game's lamp matrix wiring harness soon.

once everything's proved out, whether I end up keeping the project as a one-off or offering them for sale will be revisited. based on how slowly (and off and on) that I've been working on it is the main reason why I never even bothered creating a topic.

good luck to you. I know that I paid a hefty sum for my NOS hologram which will ultimately go into a fully restored CftBL (when I finally get around to that project

I wish that someone would [do] the 2 half whirlpool decals correctly. the originals were semi-transparent but the reproduction ones are opaque.

very nice. please submit your completed application form with the obligatory $13.17 processing fee to...

maybe someone can take another stab at making a hologram using this figure from mondo
14-Universal-Monster-Creature-Black-Lagoon-Scale-Figure-Green-swim_1024x (resized).png

https://mondoshop.com/collections/universal-monsters/products/creature-from-the-black-lagoon-1-6-scale-figure

grayscale variant
https://mondoshop.com/collections/universal-monsters/products/creature-from-the-black-lagoon-1-6-scale-figure-silver-screen-variant

https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/decals/decals-playfield-ramp/creature-from-the-black-lagoon-window-decal-set/

the desolder gun is a hakko. I believe that the current model is: FR-301.

I've got an FR-300 and love it. it makes short work of things and is easy to use.

yep, that's all it moves. it's just enough to flex the plate and make it look like the creature is under water (shifting a bit)

https://pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_6&products_id=6

if you're talking about the mod that I started on about 3-4 years ago, it's this
right sign post.gif

the thought is to replace all of the playfield plastics with 4D smart LCD panels, light up & animate the appropriate sections when a mode is running.

I've continued to pick this up, work on it a bit and then shelve it multiple times. the coding has been complete for triggering everything for a while so I reached out to stumblor for assistance on producing the boards to replace the original lamp boards.

if I do end up completing and marketing it, the mod will be plug and play and completely reversible, however the cost will be kind of pricey due to cost the amount of materials involved and the time that I've invested in it.

why?? because that's what I chose. when I started working on the project (over 4 years ago), I saw them and thought that I could do something cool with them. additionally, with the 4D displays I was able to do this with one piece of hardware per signpost (other than the pcb to interface between the 4D display and existing wiring harness. plus, this was originally meant as a project for my machine and mine alone.

yes, the SPI displays are about $15+ each (about 25% of the 4D display cost for the same size/resolution), but you still need to add in the arduino and interface everything together. with an arduino solution, if it fails, then everything fails. with the 4D displays, each is independent but yes, each could fail (just as each SPI display could fail). pluses and minuses with each.

the 3.5" (diagonal) 4D screens that I'm using support 320x480 and I've been able to get 12-15fps out of them (which allow the animations to run very smooth)
https://4dsystems.com.au/products/4d-intelligent-hmi-display-modules/gen4-hmi-display-modules/gen4-ulcd-35d

the earliest test that I ran with one of the displays which has touch screen support (allowing me to even trigger more than one animated section at a time), the frame rate held at that 12-15fps

there are 24 bulbs in the chase section, and I believe that they operate in sequences of 4 bulbs at a time (meaning that when they are in "chase" sequence, bulbs 1, 5, 9, 13, 17 and 21 are lit then 2, 6, 10, 14, 18 and 22, then 3, 7, 11, 15, 19 and 23 and finally 4, 8, 12, 16, 20 and 24 are lit. (then the sequence repeats.

if bulbs 1, 5, 9, 13, 17 and 21 are never lighting up, it's probably something on your chase light board under the playfield. it might be something as easy as reflowing the header on the connector.

the silicone covers over the bulbs in my game match the cover of the flyer (and as Fifty specified)

jeff thompson was one of the people that pioneered the mod. I don't know if he's still here on pinside (or if he's still making the mod) but it might be worth searching out here

I believe there are (24) in the curly ramp for the chase light board and there are another (8) in the whirlpool, this makes me wonder where the other (2) #86s are located.

ps
you may want to consider ordering LED bulbs for these (since changing out the ones in the curly ramp is a royal pain).

cometpinball.com sells 2 varieties:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/86-led-bulbs?_pos=2&_sid=94999b70c&_ss=r&variant=27676199387238
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/86-smd-bulbs

I ordered the warm white version of the first link and used rit dye to dye the white nylon black so that they blend into the black sockets when not lit.

I have a brand new set of black mirror blades that I'm looking to sell (I purchased them with the intent but never installed them in my CftBL). if you're interested, shoot me a pm

very nice so far

I'm surprised that no one has come up with a transparent flexible gasket to fit around the window and reduce/eliminate the gap between the window/playfield

it's only a very slow moving ball that seems to be impacted by the gap, but reducing its size could improve the game's playability a little bit

according to randy @ colordmd, this was a limitation to what they were "allowed" to change when CftBL was originally colored.

trust me, I've offered to learn their system and re-color some of the older games (multiple times), considering that they were able to color a lot more on the later b/w games like cactus canyon but I've not heard back.

the other thing that I do is once I get a large enough gap between the end of the chip and the socket is to slide the screwdriver into that cavity the length of the socket (keep the screwdriver blade just under the chip).
this allows you to gently pry the majority of the chip upwards (away from the socket) without trying to swing the chip out of the socket like a door and bending the pins of the chip. with a jeweler's screwdriver, the blade is typically small enough that you can work more and more of the screwdriver barrel between the entire length of the chip and socket while gently moving it from side to side (left side pins to right side pins and back), working the chip up and out of the socket evenly