I will let him know. I had told him to Change then out since they are a few decades old. We will see. I will keep you posted if a simple reseat helps.

It looks like I'll have 2 Creech whirlpool MRS' unclaimed before I take a hiatus for the holiday's....if interested...PM me!

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These magnetic reed switches are really nicely done and to make the form factor of the MRS fit the Creech bowl makes this an amazing mod.

Gord

Finally got to install my reed switch a couple days ago. Great mod that works perfectly.

The MRS' arrived today. They look great. They are truly plug and play and I installed the black MRS tonight and it works great.

Thanks again for updating the form factor of this MRS to hug the Creech bowl.

Gord

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Thanks for the kind words Gord! I've been through the waiting list and everyone that has asked has been notified....that said, I have 3 bowl MRS' left from this latest batch (1 in green and 2 in black) ....I'm going to shift over to building regular MRS' over the next month....so first come first serve on the 3 bowl MRS' - send me a PM...they ship same day as payment! Thanks....

Sonic , I received my MRS yesterday and put it on my machine today. I had to mount it differently because I have Professor Pinballs
Pinduino and lighting installed on my machine . So what I did was move the location of the MRS counterclockwise to about 1 or 2 o'clock and located it up higher because of the light strips on the bowl. It is working great and only down side it that it registers 1 less revolution because of its location a little further down stream. But thats not the end of the world lol I just need to be a better player

Thank you

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Sonic got mine this past week, will have to install soon. Thanks again!!

Ordered my MRS today looking forward to receiving it

I had this same issue and I just attached it to the back of the LED strip itself. That worked, but it would trip when there was vibration such as when a flipper would activate. I found that if the switch is pushed firmly up against the LED strip then it didn't have that problem. So I put a screw into the oblong hole on the bowl behind the switch to wedge it against the LED strip. Now it works perfectly.

Hey Creech fans. I am looking to trade into a Creech soon. Any common issues I should be aware of? Also looks like some decent mods out there, any have to haves on the list? TIA.

Swinks’ snack bar mod. All Cliffy protectors.
Full stop. That’s really the major ones.

There’s also a supposed video screen under the lagoon which can replace the creature hologram, but it’s been “coming out” for 2 years And still not available so who knows.

Beware the dead hologram.

Hi.
I'm searching the files to print the fuse list cart and the tech cart placed into the backbox.
The old one are really yellow.

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Creature_From_The_Black_Lagoon_Tech_Chart.pdf

PinballSP have announced on their Facebook page that they are now taking preorders on their LCD solution (see screenshot below)

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Personally I'll be sticking with my recently acquired original NOS hologram. I think PinballSP needs to show some videos of this mod working in an actual CFTBL machine.

and where did you get that NOS hologram? any more available?

Hi Everybody. I had a CREECH briefly a few years ago before selling it. Classic game, but just not for me. Anyway, was trying to organize a now extensive (and somewhat disorganized) supply of pinball parts and came across several pieces of used and new plastics for this game. I had to replace a few pieces on mine and ended up just buying a complete set because I could not find them individually. I forgot that I still had them. Please hit me up if you are interested:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/89871

Working on a creature that has Pinball Mikes LCD mod V2 in it, both the USB drive and SD card were corrupt and I was wondering if anyone out there has the files for the V2 of this mod they could share? I found someone nice enough to share the files for V1 of the mod via dropbox but unfortunately they wont work with V2. I didn't initially even know there were two version of the mod out there.

If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks..

PM Sent

I've burned through the MRS-CFTBL (bowl mod) wait-list and have just one left on the bench - shoot me a PM if you want it!

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Surely worth it to get one!
Happy with mine

Got a few orders in for more bowl MRS' - so I'm whipping up some black ones - PM me if interested!

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Can one of you guys tell me which GI lighting string that the BLACK LAGOON on the back box is connected to? That section of lights is out on my game and I can't figure out where it connects. It's odd that its out and all my GI Strings work under test. Any insights helpful.

Sent payment for my MRS! Hopefully can get more than two passes now lol (yeah, I stink at leveling the bowl).

MRS works great. I used to get three revolutions and maybe nudge four with the standard switch, now getting 7–9 with the reed switch.
Make sure the wire form is positioned so the Pinball enters the bowl right up near the outer edge of the bowl. Works best that way.

Hi all!

First time pinball owner here.

My boyfriend @rmerlo88 has always been interested in pinball machines, buying and selling them as a side project.

He came across a Creech about two months back and snapped it up as a forever game, in great condition and with very few faults.

We live in Perth, Western Australia, to put things into perspective the most isolated capital city in the world, so I'm always surprised how he can find pinballs in people's shed's untouched for 10+ years.

He's moved in to my apartment this month and Creech has moved out of the workshop and into my life and I'm in love! I'm a scuba diver and have always been into fashion from the 40s-50s so this machine resonates.

We've installed the LED hologram and last night went crazy buying a bunch of upgrades - led kit, tv mod, car mod, shooter lane led kit, cliffy protectors, a few replacement plastics, some pink rubber posts, and a replacement car playfield decal as our car has faded to blue.

Next on the wish list is Swinks' snack bar mod and the speaker light upgrade.. anyone willing to part with theirs?

The colour dmd looks amazing but will probably remain forever on the wishlist.

PS. Pics for attention.. here's me sneaking in a game before nightshift

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Oh.. forgot to mention within 24h of having Creech in our home fuse 115 blew! Was pretty easy to find the fault online and fix the faulty bridge rectifier. Having never done anything like that before I was pretty pleased.

1st pin I ever bought - last pin to ever consider parting with - it's just my kind of perfect...

Congrats! Most people hold onto their Creechs once they get them. It’s a special game.

Facebook just reminded me of this picture of my collection from 7 years ago. The only game that remains is Creech.

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After a few years of not selling the Micro Display Mods (other than the TV versions), these are back in my Pinside Shop and on Mezelmods. I made a few changes from the original version.

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Would anyone mind posting pics of the wiring for the connectors at the hologram board by the left flipper? Mine needs some attention. Thanks!

Just received, installed, and tested the mrs whirlpool switch from Sonic. It completely changes things for the better. I was able to get 7-8 revolutions consistently. I was only getting 3-4 before. This is a must buy if you own a creature. Thanks again Sonic!

Here:

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Same here! Mind is routinely hitting 5-6 revolutions which is up from 1-2 originally. I could probably get more but where’s the challenge in that?! Thanks Sonic

Thank you so much rygar !! This helps tremendously. Hopefully, my hologram will be fully operational after this weekend.

Hi there,
This is my first post here.
After years, I finally have a CFTBL. Trouble is, parts of the playfield were deconstructed. I have got it almost back together, but I am struggling getting the ramps and whirlpool back on. I know the idea is to take pics to help when taking it apart, but I didnt get the chance to do that. So, if anyone who has taken off their own ramps and whirlpool can share their pics with me, it would help me to get mine working. Any tips/advice/links would be very appreciated.
Thanks
KW

Here are the shop out images from Pinside. Hopefully, these help. I have some I can send you if these are not sufficient. Good luck!

https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/creature-from-the-black-lagoon/gallery/shopout

Does anyone know if the small bulbs for spiral ramp and bowl exist in LED form?

Yep!

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/86-led-bulbs

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Couldn’t help myself. Had to buy this beautiful new book from Easton Press. I think spfxted would appreciate it.

https://www.eastonpress.com/prod/769/3611/HORROR-CINEMA
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that book is EXPENSIVE, damn. I also stumbled onto John Landis' book "MONSTERS in the movies" the other day. Pretty damn good - has interviews with Joe Dante, John Carpenter, a host of other directors. Each chapter is a different type of monster (e.g. robots, aliens, vampires, werewolves, etc) He has comments about many of the movies good and bad. The comments are usually hilarious. Sort of similar in structure to Ted's books. Hey! spfxted where's my Volume 4!

I put Comet purple in mine. Looks great. Can't go wrong with Comet!

sorry for the lengthy post, but I found this in my emails from long ago and should help with the order of taking off and putting things back together

Creature From The Black Lagoon (CFTBL) Shop Out Guide
There are pictures online at [http://www.theteardown.com] www.theteardown.com

1.1 parts to have on hand

- bulbs
- twenty or so #44 or #47
- a box of #86 for the ramp lights

- if you want to put lights in your jet bumpers, get 3 light sockets. there are lots of ways to do this. you can tie them to the GI circuit so they are on all the time,
you can tie them to the lightning bolts so they work just like the test menu - separate lights for left, right and center, or you can make them flash when the jet
bumpers are activated. Google rec.games.pinball for more information
- rubber ring kit - see chart at end
- replacements for anything that is obviously broken and probably a cliffy protector for the snack bar hole

1.2 start

1. remove the 3 pinballs

2. raise the playfield and disconnect all harness connections leading to the ramps (basically any wire bundle running to the topside of the playfield). make sure that
all of the [disconnected] wire harnesses can pass through the holes unencumbered

note: when disconnecting each harness connection, label both ends of the connectors to eliminate any guess work as to which connectors pair back up when it’s time
for reassembly. use a sharpie permanent marker (or id-tag zip ties) and label both ends of the connector with the same letter/number/symbol

3. remove the straight wire form leading from the bowl to the circular (curly) ramp
- 5/8" phillips sems screw with washers on top and bottom and sems nut on bottom

4. remove the “snack bar” sign
- nylock nut

5. remove the circular (curly) ramp with film strip credits stickers on it
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with washers top and bottom on hex post by snack bar hole
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with washers on top on hex post of left side of wire form
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with washers top and bottom on hex post at rear

6. remove the "big millions" sign
- nylock nut

7. remove the right ramp
- (2) 1/4" screws shoulder washer on entrance
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with thick washer on top on slingshot hex post

8. remove the wire form at "start movie" [right side]
- 3/8" hex head machine screw with washer at rear
- 1-1/2" wood screw with washer at bottom in rail

9. remove the bowl
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with thick washer on top and two smaller 3/8" washers under plastic tab on hex post by right flipper
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with smaller washer on top and thick washer under plastic tab on top of the hex post on shooter rail
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with thick washer on top of bracket

10. remove the apron [and the wires underneath]
- 1-1/4" white posts with 1-3/4" wood screws holding wire holders on shooter frame

11. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-13) on left side of shooter lane

12. remove the VUK wire [above the right slingshot]
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with washer on top and under hex post on slingshot
- 5/8" phillips sems screw with washer on playfield

13. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-20) [right of] the left ramp entrance
- disconnect and remove the wire for the “big millions” sign

14. remove the “snack bar” plastic (part no. 31-1698-3)
- 1/2" machine screw with washer on post with rubber sleeve and clear plastic protector under plastic at post

15. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-7) [left of] the "move your car" lane
- remove the wire harness for the ramp lights (mark the harness, since it is unique)

16. remove the “unlimited millions” sign (part no. 31-1698-9) in left corner

17. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-10) under the “unlimited millions” sign

18. remove the right side of the steel ramp in the left corner
- 2 hex head screws

19. remove the 5-5/8" overall length hex post with washer on playfield next to left ramp arm

20. remove the rod that raises the ramp flap - use pliers to hold the screw

21. raise the playfield and remove the left ramp assembly in the left bottom corner

22. remove the left ramp
- 3/8" screw with shoulder washer with washers on top and bottom of ramp on next post on shooter rail
- 2 wood screws in ramp flap
- phillips sems screw with washer on top and bottom on post to left of left jet bumper

raise the ramp flap and slide the plastic ramp to the right and remove

23. loosen the plastic (part no. 31-1698-1) in left corner
- self tapping phillips screw with washer into (wooden/metal) playfield rail

NOTE: you may not be able to completely remove the plastic because of the steel ramp, but you need to get under it to remove the steel ramp

24. remove the left side of steel ramp with ramp flap
- 3 hex head wood screws

25. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-1) in corner that you just loosened
- remove “unlimited millions” sign wire harness

26. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-18) [right side of] the “move your car” lane
- remove “super jackpot” sign wire harness

27. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-15) in upper right corner

28. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-4) above the left out lane

29. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-5) above the right out lane

30. remove the left and right sling shot plastics (part no.s 31-1698-4 & 31-1698-5)
- 1-1/2" FF hex post with washer on top of plastic on top of the slings

31. remove the bottom lane guides

32. remove the jet bumper caps

33. remove the under playfield troughs
- the left metal trough has wood screws underneath holding the ball guide and shorter hex head screws

34. remove the orange star posts
- all 6 of the slings posts are singles
- 4 singles above the left and right out lanes

note: the 2 interior posts are 6-32 with 1/4" tops rather than 3/16"

- 2 double posts [behind and to the right of] "snack bar" hole with 2 rings
- 2 single posts [to the right of] the "extra ball" insert, bottom has phillips screw
- 2 double posts [to the left of] the jet bumpers with phillips screws
- 2 double posts [to the left of] the "start movie" hole - bottom has hex head wood screw
- 3 double posts [to the right of] jets have phillips head screws
- 3 single posts [left of] the top lane guides with phillips head screws on bottom 2
- 4 single posts [right of] the of top lane guides, bottom 2 phillips screws

35. remove the 3 top orange lane dividers
- all have phillips screws
- these wood screws are slightly longer than the rest of the wood screws

36. remove the orange tube on right side rail by the "L" in "starlight"

37. remove the 4 ball gates including one with the switch on the “move your car” lane
- 1/4" shoulder washer screw in upper left ball gate on rubber sleeved post
- all gates have washers on top of white posts under frames
- upper right side gate has washer on top of frame on the star post
- lower left ball gate has cut edges that line up with side rail

38. remove the 15 white nylon posts
- all but 2 have wood screw posts
- the post on left between movie and video insert has a 6-32 w- 1/4" top metal screw
- the post in the upper left corner [to the right of corner white post] has a phillips screw

39. remove hex posts - washers on top of playfield under posts
- 5-1/4" overall height (M-F) by the left foot of the frogman below the bottom jet
- 4-3/16" overall height (M-F) to left of the red car in the "move your car" lane
- 4-3/16" overall height (M-F) northwest of the left jet
- 1-1/8" overall height (F-F) on shooter rail [at bottom]
- 2" overall height (F-F) on shooter rail [at top]

40. remove the metal tubes (1-15/16" overall height) used as adjustable posts
- large 5/8" washer under tubes
- sems nut under playfield

41. remove the 3 metal posts by the "S" in "starlight"
- have washers on playfield under posts

42. shooter gauge has self shoulder wood screws

43. remove the 8 metal posts with black sleeves and nuts under playfield

44. remove the ramp holder on left side rail

45. remove the bowl brackets on right side rail

46. raise the playfield and remove the shroud around creature window
- shorter gold colored hex head screws

47. remove the creature window
- nylock nuts with washers under nylocks

48. remove hardware on back board

NOTE: there are 20 #44 bulbs and 8 #89 bulbs on the playfield

1.3 ring chart
the machine shipped with [White] rings and [red] flipper rings

Creature From The Black Lagoon Rubber Ring List

rings
inside diameter qty
5/16" 2
3/4" 3
1" 4
1-1/4" 1
1-1/2" 4
2" 2
2-1/2" 2

flipper rings
inside diameter qty
std 1-1/2" [red] 2

other qty
rubber sleeve (black) 9
shooter tip 1
3/4" tapered bumper 1
ring bumper (23-6535) 6
white rubber ring (23-6641-1) 8

total per game: 43

Changes from manual - added 2 black sleeves for adjustable post bumpers

End of guide

New personal best. Will never stop loving this game.

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First off Way awesome upgrade and the quality is top notch!!! Thank you. Installed as noted but at random times now during game play the MRS switch is triggering? I cleaned the bowl real well before install but still randomly triggers during game play. Is there something to adjust or simply something that happens. Not a huge issue just odd to hear it now.

Depends on where you installed it...can you share a pic...also I know you indicated random, but did you notice any pattern at all? If you can, go to test mode - tap on the bowl, wave the pinball around it - see if you can find a pattern.....one thing I've worked on is tuning the sensitivity down some - you always want to go 'to 11' it seems when you build something but yours may be too sensitive....if it still persists - just shoot me a PM (you have my address) - and I'll swap you another one for yours.....

No worries. Yes its completely random no rhyme or reason. Very minor observation but looking at the posted photos compared to mine the black fill (stuff?) on mine has pockets where its not fully filled in. Can I just put some epoxy in them to reduce the sensitivity? Mine is install directly below the ramp flange horizontal as shown in the pics.

The potting material is irrelevant to the sensitivity - its' simply there to hold everything in, insulate and protect.....it doesn't have to be completely filled....sensitivity is a little more tricky to adjust for the end user (you have to have the parts...)....

Dave, what pics are you referring to? Is it below where the original Cherry was...over by the whirlpool wire ramp or by the wire ramp that dumps the ball to the right inlane?