Shoot, no European reseller. It doubles the price because of shipping... For a small ROM that would fit in an enveloppe. Aren't they selling elsewhere ?

Not that it's a lot of money either way, just that in principle I'd rather pay the developer than ebay, post office and customs

By the way, how much different is this from the competition ROM that floated around a little while ago ?

I sell ROMs. EU region incl tax. Write to

[email protected]

Very nice Creech up for sale in the market place.

Hoping to find out the same thing.

Going to attempt the rom removal this weekend as I bought a removal tool do I just swap roms nothing else just swap roms? Should I remove board or pull rom with board still mounted?

Thx.

1117E7AE-C61E-4519-B8B6-2A8E14979375 (resized).jpeg

Yes.

Yep, you just swap the ROMs. Disconnect the plug from the wall first. I have the same tool. It's more trouble than it's worth. You'll have more luck using a slot head precision screwdriver.

I tried using the tool to no avail ended up taking the board out and used a small flat head screw driver. I just couldn’t seem to get any movement of the rom using the tool.

Yea, the longer they've been in there the more stuck they seem to be. I believe there's a bit of oxidation that you have to break through to get them to start moving.

The real issue with using a screw driver to remove ROMs is resisting the urge to pry up on the chip by placing the tip of the driver on the PCB under the chip since most sockets are open in the middle. Doing so places the blade of the driver on the surface of the PCB and can cut/short the traces which run under the ROM (or any other socketed chip). This is an easy mistake as most folks will either slide the blade across the PCB or lift up on the driver while the tip is on the PCB surface in an effort to pry up on the chip. Both of these actions damage the traces.

The other issue folks have when the chip is in close proximity to other chips is they accidentally put the tip of the screwdriver under the socket and pry up the socket too.

It takes a bit of practice and a steady hand to slowly work up on the chip. I typically work the chip out by sliding the driver tip between the socket and the chip just inside the legs. Since most sockets are open in the middle, you need to apply pressure between the socket and the chip and that's going to be just behind the pins on each side. Sort of a wiggling/wedging operation that uses the inclination of the driver tip to push up on the chip and down on the socket. I work each side a little bit at a time, switching back and forth. The most difficult portion is at the end when the chip wants to tip up like a hinged lid and you can end up bending the crap out of the last few pins on both sides.

Yes, exactly this. You will need to apply some good pressure with a slotted screwdriver on one side to break the oxidation from the last 30+ years. It's a bit sketchy at first because you think you're applying too much pressure. Then you'll hear a SNAP and everything will go swimmingly after that. Breaking that 30+ year seal is the hardest part.

the other thing that I do is once I get a large enough gap between the end of the chip and the socket is to slide the screwdriver into that cavity the length of the socket (keep the screwdriver blade just under the chip).
this allows you to gently pry the majority of the chip upwards (away from the socket) without trying to swing the chip out of the socket like a door and bending the pins of the chip. with a jeweler's screwdriver, the blade is typically small enough that you can work more and more of the screwdriver barrel between the entire length of the chip and socket while gently moving it from side to side (left side pins to right side pins and back), working the chip up and out of the socket evenly

Get one of these...

Precision Chip Lifter, 2 x 5-3/4 in https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZTY7D8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_49QYWVP9E2GRVRZGYT04

This will definitely work, but unless you're swapping chips all the time a slot headed screwdriver will do the job just fine.

I”m sorry is a slot headed screwdriver just like a normal flat screwdriver?

B226242A-3322-457B-AB90-8E88C7B9DF72 (resized).jpeg

Yes

Yes. It actually says "slotted head" on the image you posted.

Thinking about this the Rom and tool Cost me around $30 (Aussie Dollars) now if I bugger it up it could cost me $300 in board repairs lol now is the upgraded rules in the new rom worth the risk?

It really is very low risk if you follow the advise above. Just go slow and be careful with the force applied to the chip and board. Also triple check the orientation and alignment when inserting the new rom. Go for it.

Good luck

Yes. You're panic posting. It is not that difficult, but as stated a bunch of times already TAKE YOUR TIME and WATCH WHAT YOU ARE DOING.

You may want to review the following link from Action Pinball which details the process of installing a new ROM chip in a pinball machine.

Gord

https://actionpinball.com/tech/roms.php

if you don't feel comfortable changing the chip yourself, find someone that you know versed in working with boards. but as others have noted, it's not a difficult task.

here. here's a of youtube video on how to do it:

Thanks guys with all your comments tips links and videos I feel confident doing the swap I’ll do it this weekend thanks again for your help.

Anyone running a pinsound board have a cool boot.wav they want to share?

My mirror motor for the hologram is on it's way out... it only runs if I push on the mirror a little. Has anyone every tried to clean up or repair one? If that's not a fix, for replacement it looks like my options are:

-Buy a replacement Marco has the runs on 120v and rewire it
-Buy the Hurricane/Gilligan's island one that runs on a similar voltage, but hack the mount to fit it

Is this right? Or are there other options? Thanks!

thenaimis was doing replacements at one point, don't know if he has any left?

I use the "Lets all go to the lobby" song on boot.

Holy crap everyone, I've probably owned my Creech for 10 years, and I've never scored more than a billion on it. That's always been my goal, but this thing just plays brutal. Well, I just had the best game of my life on my Creech. Everything went perfect and I managed to start multiball, run up the multiplier to 4X, then collect the jackpot, and a super jackpot of 383+ million! Wow, what a rush. Ended at 1.5+ billion. Love this game. Now I guess I need to reward it with a ColorDMD.

20220403_135118 (resized).jpg

WELL DONE!!!!

My best is 750 million. I reckon you've earned yourself an L.E.D. kit as well.

pm me your email and I will send mine over to you

I have a MikeD mod that I have pulled from a CFTBL I just bought. I'm looking to recoup some of the money I spent on the machine so if you are interested feel free to PM me an offer. I can ship or have a friend bring it to Allentown Pinfest.

PM sent

I had the opportunity to go and film Stumblors fantastic Creature which he's restored beautifully.

Hope you enjoy it.

Great vid. Thoroughly enjoyed it!

stumblor you didn't cover the LED backbox speaker lights in the vid. Where are they from? Are they your own invention for this new backbox sizing? I really like the look of them, even more if they are interactive.

Thanks mate. They are my Lollypops mod, setup with double splitters with two LED strips each side. Custom diffuser brackets. The patterns morph into the next one every 10 seconds or so. Colours allnd patterns all selectable over WiFi as per normal lollypops.

Interactive ones would be an interesting option too. Pinpoint could do this using game sounds as the trigger. They both use the same pattern algorithms.

If anyone needs any CFTBL pieces I have a speaker panel plastic FS in the marketplace.
I have the actual wood speaker panel as well if someone is looking for one.

Parts - For Sale

CFTBL display plastic Archived

Used, good condition - “Used Creature from the Black Lagoon display board plastic. Back coating was removed for use with the "tail light mod" display board. Small defect on front clear DMD area. Barely n...”

2022-07-30

Suffield, CT

qbass187

80

Archived after: 11 days

Viewed: 139 times

Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

I decided to try using the Hurricane/Gilligan's Island motor for my mirror movement on my hologram. It took a little adjustment, but overall I think it was the easiest quick solution to replacing the motor. It's a similar voltage and the bolt holes are in the same place, but since it's bigger, I needed to add spacers to the mount to line it up correctly with the connection to the mirror, and because it's bigger, I then had to mount the whole set up about 3/4" higher on a piece of scrap wood. It turned out pretty well and reversible and I just needed to pin the wires and reused the dead motor's molex connector.

c1 (resized).jpg

c2 (resized).jpg

When I bought my Creature, I found an aftermarket hologram light mod loose inside the cab for using a more modern light that was plug and play with the existing molex connector. I'm not sure why it wasn't installed, the old light socket and bulb were in there and very weak for lighting up the hologram. When ordering parts from Marco, I saw they had an LED replacement bulb that fit the new socket, so ordered it and installed it yesterday.

I think it might be too bright! It lights the frame around the hologram and I have light bleed above the hologram, even with the black paper tunnel that's supposed to help focus the light. What have other people done here? Stick with the original fixture? Gone LED, but focused the beam more? I was thinking I could try a longer paper tunnel that's more directed or maybe even a PVC tube.

At every hard start all my settings are gone.... My CFTBL was equiped with a Pinled CPU board when I bought it with I guess a Lithium battery.
These last for 10 years I tought but no idea how long it has been in it.

Can these be swapped (Model, type ?) ? or can I just remove it and solder a battery holder with 3xAA batteries?

Or could something else than the battery be an issue?

A quick google shows others have replaced the battery (using the same type) but it's not straight forward as swapping out AA or coin batteries.

PinLED CPU board - battery (resized).png

Thx

found some rechargable Li-Ion batts as well but wonder if 720mAh (€7,-) is ok or need rather a 1500mAh (up to €50,-) or are the ones installed non rechargeable... what's best to use in the long run ?

I will require a bit of soldering but that's ok.

If you are good with soldering go with an NVRAM, get rid of the batteries for good!

It'd be best you reach out to PinLED and ask them what is possible and which battery is best to use

Hoping for some pointers on my sickly Creech.

Was playing and suddenly the colordmd went black and shut off. Now when I start game display is still black and ball popper coils fire in succession.

Maybe no power to opto board? I tried reseating all my connectors and ribbon cables.

I’ll keep messing around but hoping someone might have some tips.

Thanks!

how is the colordmd power - via games boards or a separate power pack?

do you have any other mods running?

I have a similar issue, color dmd images go on the fritz and coils randomly go off. There's tons of mods on mine. So guessing it's a power issue. Was thinking of getting an accessory power board. Saw one for 99 bucks on pinside market. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1233-arcade-upkeep/03718-dual-voltage-mod-power-supply-kit

Anyone have experience with this?

Yes I have. I had to put a mod expander board on my TZ, TAF and CFTBL due to too many mods. I purchased the Mod Power Expander Board for WPC and WPC-95 Games from My Pinballs: https://mypinballs.com/ I like the way the board looks and the power source is small. I just added a 120V plugin in the cabinet so it turns on/off with the game switch.

Check out connectors J119, J120, and J115. I had problems with low voltage resets and with the VUK's firing spontaneously and redoing these connectors solved all the issues. I am running the Mike D video mod but nothing else.

yeah on CFTBL there is a only a small amount of amps (2-3 amps at best) at 12vdc that can be spared and then if your boards are older that range could be 1-2 amps at 12vdc

disconnect a few mods and see if some of the issues settle down - if they do it is the age of your boards and too much load = add a power supply to power mods so the boards are not working as hard.

Your unregulated 12V is out. Check/replace F116 at the upper left corner of the power driver board.

Thanks! That was it. Replaced the fuse and it was working fine. Though on my second game I blew it again. During multiball when both balls were going crazy in the pops (not sure if that has anything to do with it). Maybe all the shaking is causing a short somewhere or something.