Holly Springs, NC
Quoted from j_m_:sorry about that.
No worries cliffy has come through !
(Topic ID: 79267)
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Creature from the Black Lagoon
Bally, 1992
Topic Gallery
Sudbury
Hey guys, got issues with my chase lamps. Half of them don't flicker/chase and are just on solid. It's every two lamps.
I've made a thread with more info, if anyone could help I'd appreciate it.
Quoted from robgo777:Not sure about the other versions but we have decided to go ahead and produce these. They will be available in the coming weeks. I will create a separate thread with the announcement and photos of the actual kit so as to not hijack this one but will let you guys know.
Thanks for the interest and for all who responded.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers LLC
Following !!
Anyone sitting on a decent used or repro holo they want to part with please let me know. My original is still working but it’s very rough. Thanks!
Quoted from bobwiley:Okay, get ready for a slew of help posts over the next few days. My creature when turned off resets to factory settings and after a game or two the flippers stop working. Batteries are good. I can press the buttons and they might wiggle but won't full flip. Also, sometimes the sound stops working. It's a pinsound board. The game previously worked fine, but has lots or mods (lights, sound, color dmd, etc). I have the color dmd running on a separate power supply, albeit its electricity is coming from the outlet in the cabinet and I unplugged the whirlpool aftermarket board to reduce draw. Any starting tips would be greatly appreciated!
Okay, ya'll were spared of my slew of posts! Here's the update, the voltage was low at the flippers and coming out of the board. Turns out the fuse was causing the voltage drop! So I lucked out. Just really crazy that the fuse was still "good" but when current would go through it it would drop the voltage. Everything is working like it should/was. Oh, and there was the slightest hint/film of corrosion on one of the battery terminals, so that was causing the factory restore. Thanks to everyone for there tips. They led me trouble shoot in all the right areas!
Also, I got a hold of a looking glass portrait. I really think this has the potential to be the solution for what people are looking for. The looking glass portrait plus the system Robert Goebel
Pinshakers LLC came up with could do the trick. I need to measure it out, but basically its a hologram display where we could have a moving creature hologram, or a static one that would play during multiball. If someone really wanted they could do it up like the miked or holomod sp units, but someone would need to render up images. Let me make sure it fits first. But maybe we could all pool our talents together and make ideal hologram replacement.
Quoted from bobwiley:Okay, ya'll were spared of my slew of posts! Here's the update, the voltage was low at the flippers and coming out of the board. Turns out the fuse was causing the voltage drop! So I lucked out. Just really crazy that the fuse was still "good" but when current would go through it it would drop the voltage. Everything is working like it should/was. Oh, and there was the slightest hint/film of corrosion on one of the battery terminals, so that was causing the factory restore. Thanks to everyone for there tips. They led me trouble shoot in all the right areas!
Also, I got a hold of a looking glass portrait. I really think this has the potential to be the solution for what people are looking for. The looking glass portrait plus the system Robert Goebel
Pinshakers LLC came up with could do the trick. I need to measure it out, but basically its a hologram display where we could have a moving creature hologram, or a static one that would play during multiball. If someone really wanted they could do it up like the miked or holomod sp units, but someone would need to render up images. Let me make sure it fits first. But maybe we could all pool our talents together and make ideal hologram replacement.
Please keep us posted on further developments. Personally -- and this assumes that I wind up keeping this game, which is far from certain -- I'm not really up for a solution of the Raspberry Pi or mini-monitor under pf variety. But if it's other than that, and more duplicative of how the original hologram looked and behaved, then I'd find that more of interest.
1 week later
Good Afternoon,
There was enough of a demand for us to go ahead and develop the Pinshakers CFTBL Interactive Hologram Video Mod. We have the boards in stock and you can purchase your kit here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1206-pinshakers/07788-cftbl-interactive-hologram-video-mod
We hope you enjoy it.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers LLC
No knock intended on any other solutions out there, but I still don't see why someone (photo studio ?) could not simply duplicate the original transparency (or whatever it is) ? We'd still have the question of availability on the 2 motors that operate it, but this could be the cheaper, more organic fix ? And having different options is usually a good thing.
Quoted from Heretic_9:No knock intended on any other solutions out there, but I still don't see why someone (photo studio ?) could not simply duplicate the original transparency (or whatever it is) ? We'd still have the question of availability on the 2 motors that operate it, but this could be the cheaper, more organic fix ? And having different options is usually a good thing.
It could be as simple as getting your hands on a high quality original and enlisting the services of a local photo/video studio to take some high resolution video clips of the hologram in motion. That video could be used to display on a quality LDC screen mounted under the window which is interactive with gameplay.
My CFTBL happens to have a very good crisp green hologram, maybe I will see if I can find someone local who can get some good video of it under the right lighting conditions.
Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers LLC
Hi I recently bought a cftbl whith some work to do.
I noticed that the wires have been hacked before the power converter.
My question is why someone would do this ? What can cause this hack ?
I am asking because i want to put everything back but i do not want to do something wrong.
Pinball is working fine( sometimes some strange things like it gives me 2 ball instead of 1, tells me free ticket in game ) and i got all lamps back to work.
Melbourne
Quoted from Xavi3r81:Hi I recently bought a cftbl whith some work to do.
I noticed that the wires have been hacked before the power converter.
My question is why someone would do this ? What can cause this hack ?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I am asking because i want to put everything back but i do not want to do something wrong.
Pinball is working fine( sometimes some strange things like it gives me 2 ball instead of 1, tells me free ticket in game ) and i got all lamps back to work.
Most likely it’s moved between countries with different voltages, but rather than jumper the 9 pin plug as designed, they’ve done a hack job.
You’ll find the voltage jumper configurations in the first page of the schematics manual.
Quoted from Xavi3r81:I am asking because i want to put everything back but i do not want to do something wrong.
Put it back the way it was. Connect WHT-BRN to WHT-BRN and WHT to WHT. The WHT is the line neutral.
The jumper looks to be set at 230VAC.
Follow the Pinwiki subsection @ https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Early_WPC_Transformers_.289_pin_connection.29 to get the correct jumper settings. If you want to be sure unplug the 24-pin connector off the transformer secondary and test the transformer secondary output.
If you are in a 115VAC country there is low risk of sending the incorrect voltage output. If you are in 230VAC country then be very careful of the voltage select jumpers before powering on. Selecting 115VAC but using a line of 230VAC may damage a lot of components on your boards due to the output being twice the expected voltage.
Can someone send me hi res pictures of the cabinet decals ? A friend can make me the decals but he needs hi res pictures and decals on mine are not in good shape.
Quoted from robgo777:It could be as simple as getting your hands on a high quality original and enlisting the services of a local photo/video studio to take some high resolution video clips of the hologram in motion. That video could be used to display on a quality LDC screen mounted under the window which is interactive with gameplay.
My CFTBL happens to have a very good crisp green hologram, maybe I will see if I can find someone local who can get some good video of it under the right lighting conditions.
Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers LLC
I was thinking in terms of *avoiding* the need for any reconstruction: for either a Raspberry Pi *or* a mini-LCD monitor going into the assembly path. This presumes that the two motors remain functional. It also skips having to synchronize anything else with code / gameplay. The most simple solution, and should cost the least. But these aforementioned conditions had to fall into place. AFAIK, that photographic element seems to be just an oversized slide, like some of us might have shot on Ektachrome, back in the days of Nikon etc. SLR film cameras, before photography went digital. Not exactly common current day tech, but you could still find some photography pros who were well enough versed in it. Hopefully there are still some labs around -- or personal basement labs -- that are capable of handling film. (I mean, as with movies, there are still a small handful of people like Christopher Nolan who shoot them on film. Has larger format like IMAX gone digital ? Probably, but not sure.)
Anyway, once you start talking about video clips, you are basically back into MikeD mod territory.
Quoted from Heretic_9:I was thinking in terms of *avoiding* the need for any reconstruction: for either a Raspberry Pi *or* a mini-LCD monitor going into the assembly path. This presumes that the two motors remain functional. It also skips having to synchronize anything else with code / gameplay. The most simple solution, and should cost the least. But these aforementioned conditions had to fall into place. AFAIK, that photographic element seems to be just an oversized slide, like some of us might have shot on Ektachrome, back in the days of Nikon etc. SLR film cameras, before photography went digital. Not exactly common current day tech, but you could still find some photography pros who were well enough versed in it. Hopefully there are still some labs around -- or personal basement labs -- that are capable of handling film. (I mean, as with movies, there are still a small handful of people like Christopher Nolan who shoot them on film. Has larger format like IMAX gone digital ? Probably, but not sure.)
Anyway, once you start talking about video clips, you are basically back into MikeD mod territory.
Here's some background on holograms - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holography
Plenty of people have investigated the issues around the CFTBL holo and what it'd take to reproduce
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cftbl-found-photo-of-original-model-used-for-hologram-need-your-help
https://www.iobium.com/creature_hologram.htm
https://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/whats-the-deal-with-repro-cftbl-holograms.46299/
Quoted from Heretic_9:I was thinking in terms of *avoiding* the need for any reconstruction: for either a Raspberry Pi *or* a mini-LCD monitor going into the assembly path. This presumes that the two motors remain functional. It also skips having to synchronize anything else with code / gameplay. The most simple solution, and should cost the least. But these aforementioned conditions had to fall into place. AFAIK, that photographic element seems to be just an oversized slide, like some of us might have shot on Ektachrome, back in the days of Nikon etc. SLR film cameras, before photography went digital. Not exactly common current day tech, but you could still find some photography pros who were well enough versed in it. Hopefully there are still some labs around -- or personal basement labs -- that are capable of handling film. (I mean, as with movies, there are still a small handful of people like Christopher Nolan who shoot them on film. Has larger format like IMAX gone digital ? Probably, but not sure.)
Anyway, once you start talking about video clips, you are basically back into MikeD mod territory.
Reproduction holograms have previously been made by Pinball Dreams. You may want to view the following links for the full story about the final product and the challenges in creating the holograms.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/creature-holo-reproduction
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-bunch-of-creature-holo-repros-arriving-mid-january#post-2886232
Gord
Quoted from GRB1959:Reproduction holograms have previously been made by Pinball Dreams. You may want to view the following links for the full story about the final product and the challenges in creating the holograms.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/creature-holo-reproduction
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-bunch-of-creature-holo-repros-arriving-mid-january#post-2886232
Gord
Thanks to you and to Manny65 for those links. (Such direct URLs are always appreciated, since my luck with Pinside thread searches tends to be spotty.) Looks like I have a fair amount of reading there, in order to get caught up. But in quickly noting that those posts range from 6 - 9 years old, that can't be a good indication on the status. OTOH, if Bally was able to manufacture those transparencies decades ago, and in quantity, the process ought not to be rocket science . . . .
Quoted from Heretic_9:Thanks to you and to Manny65 for those links. (Such direct URLs are always appreciated, since my luck with Pinside thread searches tends to be spotty.) Looks like I have a fair amount of reading there, in order to get caught up. But in quickly noting that those posts range from 6 - 9 years old, that can't be a good indication on the status. OTOH, if Bally was able to manufacture those transparencies decades ago, and in quantity, the process ought not to be rocket science . . . .
A lot of the ways items were manufactured back in those days are no longer possible due to the chemicals and processes now being banned
Finally got our project Creech back together!
Few things need tweaking and awaiting a new chase lamp board (I fixed mine but as soon as I tried it in the reassembled game it died again).
Can anyone explain why my ramp sits higher? I've tried popping it down so it sits below the top of the metal part but it pops back up (especially if you lift the pf). It's very flexible, I'm not sure if it's supposed to be?
There's also a little plastic spacer on the topside of the ramp below it which it sits on. I'm not sure if that's supposed to be on the top or bottom.
20230207_140326 (resized).jpg20230207_141245 (resized).jpg20230207_141241 (resized).jpg20230207_141239 (resized).jpg20230207_141213 (resized).jpg
Congrats!
The ramp should sit on that metal part. Like hang over on the open side so the metal is inside the ramp.
Quoted from dmacy:Congrats!
The ramp should sit on that metal part. Like hang over on the open side so the metal is inside the ramp.
I'll give it a go. It still seems like it would pop off when you lift the pf?
There's a lot of up down movement in that ramp if you lift it from that part. Is that normal? It's a lot more flexible than other ramps.
It will sit where it's supposed to until you lift the pf. It's like it's sprung and wants to pop out. So maybe warped slightly?
Either way it's playable!
Finally completed the game. Cant wait to get better pics and compare to how dirty and unloved it was when we got it before Christmas.
We got those comet indicator LEDs for the billboards (isn that what you call them?) Which I really like. We ordered them before we knew they're supposed to be certain colours but I think it works for now. Shame there no equivalent white indicator bulb as even the simple white comet that looks the same doesn't give off the same effect.
Also got the pinball center hologram and I don't think it's too bad, you can see it in the video.
Been enjoying Creech lots. It's brutally fast!
A few questions. Is it normal to get lots of airballs on creech? The snackbar seem to be one of the culprits as well as the rubber between the center lane and the left ramp.
Should the snack bar targets have foam?
20230208_202338 (resized).jpg
Our KISS plastic broke within one day. It seems to get whacked by the airballs where the metal ball guide is on the left, I assumed it was the kiss deflector but I think that's a red herring. I managed to glue part of it back and leave it broken still at one end. But no matter how tight it is secured it turns over time from the ball hitting it, I think it's the wood screw in the playfield turning rather than the plastic on the post.
I thought I could secure it by drilling a small hole through the plastic and putting a screw into this post.
20230209_160753~2 (resized).jpg
We get far too many balls bouncing over the right flipper, no idea how but it happens often enough to notice.
The MRS switch in the whirlpool is amazing... I got 30 spins in a test with nudging and I could probably have kept going... A bit harder to do in game, usually get 8+ then.
You can bend both scoops down to sit below the plastics. I took out my scoops to bend them so the tabs would not break off. Both your plastics are broken. The balls only go in those scoops.
My Creech targets had no foam but I did add some.
That guide under your plastic is often broken, cliffy has a replacement.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/CFTBL_Protectors.htm
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:Been enjoying Creech lots. It's brutally fast!
A few questions. Is it normal to get lots of airballs on creech? The snackbar seem to be one of the culprits as well as the rubber between the center lane and the left ramp.
Should the snack bar targets have foam?
[quoted image]
Our KISS plastic broke within one day. It seems to get whacked by the airballs where the metal ball guide is on the left, I assumed it was the kiss deflector but I think that's a red herring. I managed to glue part of it back and leave it broken still at one end. But no matter how tight it is secured it turns over time from the ball hitting it, I think it's the wood screw in the playfield turning rather than the plastic on the post.
I thought I could secure it by drilling a small hole through the plastic and putting a screw into this post.
[quoted image]
We get far too many balls bouncing over the right flipper, no idea how but it happens often enough to notice.
The MRS switch in the whirlpool is amazing... I got 30 spins in a test with nudging and I could probably have kept going... A bit harder to do in game, usually get 8+ then.
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:Been enjoying Creech lots. It's brutally fast!
A few questions. Is it normal to get lots of airballs on creech? The snackbar seem to be one of the culprits as well as the rubber between the center lane and the left ramp.
Should the snack bar targets have foam?
[quoted image]
Our KISS plastic broke within one day. It seems to get whacked by the airballs where the metal ball guide is on the left, I assumed it was the kiss deflector but I think that's a red herring. I managed to glue part of it back and leave it broken still at one end. But no matter how tight it is secured it turns over time from the ball hitting it, I think it's the wood screw in the playfield turning rather than the plastic on the post.
I thought I could secure it by drilling a small hole through the plastic and putting a screw into this post.
[quoted image]
We get far too many balls bouncing over the right flipper, no idea how but it happens often enough to notice.
The MRS switch in the whirlpool is amazing... I got 30 spins in a test with nudging and I could probably have kept going... A bit harder to do in game, usually get 8+ then.
check you have the correct flipper coils as the lhs is different to the rhs side coil - rhs is the stronger of the 2
Quoted from drummermike:You can bend both scoops down to sit below the plastics. I took out my scoops to bend them so the tabs would not break off. Both your plastics are broken. The balls only go in those scoops.
My Creech targets had no foam but I did add some.
The plastic actually are meant to lift up a little over the scoop hence why the snackbar plastic is always broken.
When I did the Snackbar Mod I shortened up the mount plate to sit behind the scoop so not a issue anymore.
We also get some rejects from the KISS lane, the one way gate looks ok, although the wire in it has a kink, I assumed that was to make a curve and direct the ball. But seeing pics of others it's supposed to be straight?
Quoted from Lopa:That guide under your plastic is often broken, cliffy has a replacement.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/CFTBL_Protectors.htm
Ours is ok. Not sure if it's bent where it mounts, the plastic very slightly overhangs it.
Quoted from drummermike:You can bend both scoops down to sit below the plastics. I took out my scoops to bend them so the tabs would not break off. Both your plastics are broken. The balls only go in those scoops.
My Creech targets had no foam but I did add some.
I am scared to bend tvhe KISS one as it's NOS and I feel lucky to have found it over here. the one that game with the game broke as soon as I tried to bend it, it had been welded back together before so maybe that's why it was weak. I imagine it's easier to bend out of the game?
Snackbar one is okay, getting Swinks snackbar mod soon so it'll not be an issue.
Quoted from swinks:check you have the correct flipper coils as the lhs is different to the rhs side coil - rhs is the stronger of the 2
I know they're different values but I'll double check.
I can sometimes back hand the left ramp, (when the diverter isn't down). I don't know how common that is.
They're recently rebuilt too.
Quoted from dmacy:Yes you should have foam behind target as you said. I don’t get air balls but I have foam there.
Air balls (off the glass) are semi-notorious with certain games (such as White Water, for its wavy, left side "waterfall" ramp), but this is not among the issues I've seen anywhere on Creech.
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:We also get some rejects from the KISS lane, the one way gate looks ok, although the wire in it has a kink, I assumed that was to make a curve and direct the ball. But seeing pics of others it's supposed to be straight?
Ours is ok. Not sure if it's bent where it mounts, the plastic very slightly overhangs it.
I am scared to bend tvhe KISS one as it's NOS and I feel lucky to have found it over here. the one that game with the game broke as soon as I tried to bend it, it had been welded back together before so maybe that's why it was weak. I imagine it's easier to bend out of the game?
Snackbar one is okay, getting Swinks snackbar mod soon so it'll not be an issue.I know they're different values but I'll double check.
I can sometimes back hand the left ramp, (when the diverter isn't down). I don't know how common that is.
They're recently rebuilt too.
I took out the scoops to bend. I used a plastic mallet and a plastic pipe as a form to bend them. Plenty of space for the ball to go in.
Quoted from Heretic_9:Air balls (off the glass) are semi-notorious with certain games (such as White Water, for its wavy, left side "waterfall" ramp), but this is not among the issues I've seen anywhere on Creech.
My airballs aren't hitting the glass, just off the playfield, hitting plastics and feeling really energetic, (for want of a better word)
Joining the club! Picking up my Creature on Monday. Now I just need to find one of those Creature Grave Walkers for sale to use as a topper. Unfortunately, they seem to be hard to find. Anyone have one for sale?
1 week later
Good Morning. As for my previous post, the one listed above, I am no longer looking for a Grave Walker for my Creature. However, what I would like, is to find someone who has the MikeD mod, who is willing to share a little info with me. What I would like , is to get a copy of the instruction or installation manual if there was one, and to find out how to back-up the data that is used for the mod, just in case there is an issue in the future. I haven't dove into it yet, as I'm still getting the machine set-up. I understand there is a USB as well as an SD card, and I just want to understand the system before I go messing with it. I've messaged PinballMikeD, but he hasn't replied as of yet. Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Chris
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:Good Morning. As for my previous post, the one listed above, I am no longer looking for a Grave Walker for my Creature. However, what I would like, is to find someone who has the MikeD mod, who is willing to share a little info with me. What I would like , is to get a copy of the instruction or installation manual if there was one, and to find out how to back-up the data that is used for the mod, just in case there is an issue in the future. I haven't dove into it yet, as I'm still getting the machine set-up. I understand there is a USB as well as an SD card, and I just want to understand the system before I go messing with it. I've messaged PinballMikeD, but he hasn't replied as of yet. Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Chris
PM me. I can help you.
Get those AA batteries off your creech!! I got my creech in 2017. The CPU was perfect. No signs of any battery leakage clean as they come. It had AA batteries on it and my first mod was to take those off and add NVRam back in 2017. I recently just got some switch errors. One on the snack bar and one out lane. So I though hmmm Took a look in the backbox and sure enough battery acid damage! At some point at some time they leaked just enough to maybe hide under a IC and just started to move around and get worse. So here I am pulling chips off and I had to replace all the molex connectors along with replace all the .100 molex connectors due to "I don't even know where it's hiding still!" Soaked the board in several tanks of vinegar and brushed with a tooth brush.
When I pick up a pin the first thing I do is look all over for any signs of acid leakage. I actually took pictures when I got my creech and it was perfect. So get those AA's off NOW! Even if you have an alarm to hit you over the head with a hammer to change the AA's in your game.. get them off. NVRam if your handy with an iron or at least do the button battery board that is super simple and anyone can do. I wouldn't even go down the AA lithium batteries only because it leaves the option for someone at sometime tossing regular AA's in there. Your PSA for the day!
51231142629_681e5399f7_k (resized).jpg52712172007_48ec30728f_4k (resized).jpgRIP Ricou Browning who played The Creature From the Black Lagoon in the original 1954 film, has passed away at the age of 93. I met him a few years ago for a pic and autograph at a local show.
https://www.mystateline.com/news/last-original-universal-monster-creature-from-the-black-lagoon-actor-passes-away/
Ricou_Browning,_March_2019 (resized).jpg
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:Could someone confirm the arrangement of the black plastic spacers on the lane guides here?
I get a few airballs when the ball hits them so I wonder if the smaller spacer isn't supposed to be on the bottom.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I don't have the game anymore but think it is big / short / big but definitely not short / big / big. Line up a ball to the guides and ideally the mid point of the ball should sit between the 2 guides.
Quoted from hAbO:RIP Ricou Browning who played The Creature From the Black Lagoon in the original 1954 film, has passed away at the age of 93. I met him a few years ago for a pic and autograph at a local show.
https://www.mystateline.com/news/last-original-universal-monster-creature-from-the-black-lagoon-actor-passes-away/
[quoted image]
Came here to post this. Thanks for beating me to it.. AWESOME, very nice guy. spfxted introduced us at a horror convention a few years ago. Got him to sign some posters for me, and I know Ted got a killer interview with him. Sad to see him go, he was the last living star from that film. Ricou played the Creature in all the underwater scenes, and a different actor, Ben Chapman played him on land.
Quoted from dmacy:From my personal Creech.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This is how mine is and contradicts what Swinks and Staffan said. So that's confusing!
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