(Topic ID: 79267)

CFTBL- Fans and members welcome!!!


By vilant

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,165 posts
  • 355 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by swinks
  • Topic is favorited by 192 Pinsiders

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There are 3165 posts in this topic. You are on page 63 of 64.
#3101 13 days ago

Hey Fifty there is a missing hex post - approximately 1 1/8" long that connects between the bowl & plastic at the top, there is also the same hex post on the flipper side connecting the bowl and light board.

#3102 13 days ago
Quoted from KongDonkey:

I believe that insert under the apron is a test for the clear coat adhesion from the factory..I could be wrong but that’s what I always thought

Smart. I wonder why the mod community hasn't figured out a way to use this insert? Perhaps have it light up when the tilt bob touches? Anyway, thanks.

Quoted from swinks:

Hey Fifty there is a missing hex post - approximately 1 1/8" long that connects between the bowl & plastic at the top, there is also the same hex post on the flipper side connecting the bowl and light board.

Damnit. I figured there was something missing. Looks like it is a hollow hex post that attaches with a screw on each end. Thanks. I'll have to dig through Marco and see what they have, unless I have something in our lab at work I can borrow. I'll need the SEMS screw as well. Thanks swinks

One thing that all you pinballers don't appreciate living in the USA. Up in Canada it is difficult to get Phillips head screws locally. Our Home Depot/Lowe's all stock Robertson. I use to travel across the border to buy screws (and pick-up packages as my US mailing address). That's out of the question with COVID still keeping the border closed.

#3103 13 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Smart. I wonder why the mod community hasn't figured out a way to use this insert? Perhaps have it light up when the tilt bob touches? Anyway, thanks.

I think it's more because you'd never see it since it's under the apron

#3104 13 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I think it's more because you'd never see it since it's under the apron

I get that, but modders have put LED screens into the pinball card spots so wiring up a single LED with an unused insert seems like a no-brainer.

swinks think this is it? Does it attach with a SEMS screw on the bottom too or is it just a nut?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4252-18

#3105 13 days ago

How did the MRS work out?

matt

#3106 13 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

How did the MRS work out?
matt

The missing hex post distracted me and I didn't end up installing it. Hopefully I'll have some time tomorrow to do it.

#3107 12 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

The missing hex post distracted me and I didn't end up installing it. Hopefully I'll have some time tomorrow to do it.

yes that looks like, I will get a picture of the assembly soon when I go down to the shed to work on my game

#3108 12 days ago

Just installed some new purple titan rubbers on my Creech..gotta say I think purple is the way to go.

308AEA3A-EFA6-4272-B591-04C9A7E6AE40 (resized).jpegCDE60CA2-AA08-485B-8603-7B66B300F9DC (resized).jpeg
#3109 12 days ago

I'm not a fan of your flipper setup, but I really like the purple posts. I'm debating on what colour to use on mine but this might be the way to go. I'm undecided on the colour(s) for the rest of the rubbers too. I was thinking of trying 'glow'.

#3110 12 days ago

I just installed hot pink post rubbers today and like the look of. The game is going soon so just put white rubbers as had a set stashed away. I would like to put in a set of glow but will add a set of glows to Ghostbusters.

IMG_3656 (resized).jpg

here is the hex post setup on the bowl. who is say it is correct but this should help.
IMG_3653 (resized).JPG

IMG_3654 (resized).JPG

#3111 12 days ago
Quoted from swinks:

I just installed hot pink post rubbers today and like the look of. The game is going soon so just put white rubbers as had a set stashed away. I would like to put in a set of glow but will add a set of glows to Ghostbusters.
[quoted image]
here is the hex post setup on the bowl. who is say it is correct but this should help.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Like the hot pink posts Jady!!!

Looks like those hex posts could do with a nice tumbling

#3112 12 days ago
Quoted from swinks:

I just installed hot pink post rubbers today and like the look of. The game is going soon so just put white rubbers as had a set stashed away. I would like to put in a set of glow but will add a set of glows to Ghostbusters.
[quoted image]
here is the hex post setup on the bowl. who is say it is correct but this should help.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Swinks, my brother... you gotta swap those pop skirts man. If they can't match at least go for a neutral color, hahah!

#3113 12 days ago

swinks Thanks for the photos. Looks like there is a washer in-between the black plastic as well. I'll need to figure out the screw size and washer size and post size and put it all together. Is it a SEMS screw underneath?

I've always hated that molex connector that is attached to the bowl. It looks like such an after thought. I might remove it and hard wire everything in and then put a molex quick-disconnect under the PF.

That blue plastic on the right sling has always been an eyesore too. Why not make it green? Or put some art on it at least?

I'm not sure if I like the pink post rubbers as much as the purple ones. Damn... indecision, indecision...

#3114 12 days ago

yes have to clean up the posts and decide on the skirts / top - going to to mechs next - flippers, slings and pops ?

I will check the screw type but dare say - same as the front side.
I agree with you on the plug - might see if I can make a cover to blend that area as been a annoying for me also

#3115 12 days ago

I just want to say, it's really nice to be following this thread and actually HAVE a Creature From The Black Lagoon. I have favourited this thread forever without owning one. It felt weird commenting all those years without actually owning the game.

swinks I just noticed you have pink post rubbers on your outlanes. My are just bare metal? Was this just a personal preference or are there supposed to be rubbers on those posts?

#3116 12 days ago

It came to me with the posts (9-10 years ago) and rubbers on them so always assumed it until you noticed

#3117 12 days ago

My are just bare metal? Was this just a personal preference or are there supposed to be rubbers on those posts?</blockquot

There should be rubber there.

#3118 12 days ago

Hopefully the Creature fans will like this..I just finished painting this bust. I also installed glass eyes which really makes it come alive. First time I’ve ever painted something like this and I’m thrilled at the way it turned out, it’s gonna look great in the game room

12151AF2-9F8C-422A-9F93-2525D2B2D885 (resized).jpeg
#3119 11 days ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

There should be rubber there

fiberdude120 Really? I'll have to investigate a bit more. I've seen more games from this era with just metal posts there. I always found it odd though.

Quoted from KongDonkey:

Hopefully the Creature fans will like this..I just finished painting this bust. I also installed glass eyes which really makes it come alive. First time I’ve ever painted something like this and I’m thrilled at the way it turned out, it’s gonna look great in the game room
[quoted image]

This looks incredible. You have talent!

Oh, I actually found a page in the manual that shows the post I'm missing. Looks like it's 1-3/16", not 1-1/8".
Screen Shot 2020-06-29 at 9.02.54 PM (resized).png

#3120 11 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

I'll have to investigate a bit more. I've seen more games from this era with just metal posts there. I always found it odd though.

I guess you can go either way its your game. I took mine out of the box brand new and it has always had rubber there. I will agree that the manual dosent show any rubber there.

#3121 11 days ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

I guess you can go either way its your game. I took mine out of the box brand new and it has always had rubber there. I will agree that the manual dosent show any rubber there.

It makes sense to have them there. I plan on installing them. I do recall seeing other games, not necessarily CFTBL, with bare metal posts. I wish I could remember the names of them.

swinks j_m_ What ended up happening to this? Is it on the back burner still or dead in the water?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cftbl-fans-and-members-welcome/page/33#post-4113727

#3122 11 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

It makes sense to have them there. I plan on installing them. I do recall seeing other games, not necessarily CFTBL, with bare metal posts. I wish I could remember the names of them.
swinks j_m_ What ended up happening to this? Is it on the back burner still or dead in the water?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cftbl-fans-and-members-welcome/page/33#post-4113727

from my point, I just aided but was never going into production , this was j_m_ s project:
- I shared the plastics art with j_m_ to aid in the cause and j_m_ has been a frequent buyer of the Snackbar Mod so is aware of the parameters to design around mainly the snackbar hole.
- I did a similar screen concept for the back of the playfield - movie poster mod and pulled the plug due to the glare on the screen and then the company stopped the screen production of the screen we both were using / wanted to use.
- the 3 x screens are dam expensive, so not sure where j_m_ got with it.

#3123 9 days ago

Hey Jady,

I know you made a small drive-in speaker toy for the left outlane, but what do you think about a bigger one on the front of the machine where the artwork is, that incorporates the Start button? Would just have extend the wiring for the Start button and figure out how to attach it without damaging the front. Certainly would fit the 3-D theme!

creature front (resized).JPGspeaker (resized).JPG
#3124 9 days ago

I know this is a long shot. Like everybody else, I’m looking for an original Creature from the Black Lagoon Hologram and I would also consider the Pinball Dreams reproduction that Henrik made. My current hologram is black.

Maybe someone has a spare kicking around somewhere that they’re holding onto that they would consider selling? I’ve given up on any video mod and would rather have a hologram. If anyone changes their’s out for a different option please let me know, I will consider buying your old one as it’s better than the nothing I have at the moment. Thanks!

#3125 9 days ago
Quoted from Jackalwere:

Hey Jady,
I know you made a small drive-in speaker toy for the left outlane, but what do you think about a bigger one on the front of the machine where the artwork is, that incorporates the Start button? Would just have extend the wiring for the Start button and figure out how to attach it without damaging the front. Certainly would fit the 3-D theme!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I have considered it in the past as bought a set of repro speaker to accurate model the speaker 1 and did the small ramp flap mod, but mounting cleanly so no damage is done to the cabinet is hard plus the cost of something in the $100-$150 equals no many sold so parked it (at the drive-in so to speak)

#3126 9 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

It makes sense to have them there. I plan on installing them. I do recall seeing other games, not necessarily CFTBL, with bare metal posts. I wish I could remember the names of them.
swinks j_m_ What ended up happening to this? Is it on the back burner still or dead in the water?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cftbl-fans-and-members-welcome/page/33#post-4113727

I've still been working on completing animations here and there over the past couple of years but other projects have always come up and taken precedence (the joust playfields and plastics w/ CPR for and restoring a couple of atari warlords cocktail machines for example.

I did recently pull everything out of the archives again and start working on it which has led to me reworking many of the [unfinished] animations that I started years ago (I'm still a perfectionist to my own detriment). I'm hoping to put together a breadboard with the circuitry to create the necessary interface between the displays and the game's lamp matrix wiring harness soon.

once everything's proved out, whether I end up keeping the project as a one-off or offering them for sale will be revisited. based on how slowly (and off and on) that I've been working on it is the main reason why I never even bothered creating a topic.

#3127 9 days ago
Quoted from jk:

I know this is a long shot. Like everybody else, I’m looking for an original Creature from the Black Lagoon Hologram and I would also consider the Pinball Dreams reproduction that Henrik made. My current hologram is black.
Maybe someone has a spare kicking around somewhere that they’re holding onto that they would consider selling? I’ve given up on any video mod and would rather have a hologram. If anyone changes their’s out for a different option please let me know, I will consider buying your old one as it’s better than the nothing I have at the moment. Thanks!

good luck to you. I know that I paid a hefty sum for my NOS hologram which will ultimately go into a fully restored CftBL (when I finally get around to that project

#3128 9 days ago

speaking of hologram mods I wonder if there is a different way to approach this as even though a hologram is the ideal, I have often wondered if:

- say you had 3 creature images but each slightly different in design to give a stop motion moving effect, each etched on a separate piece of acrylic stacked on top of each other and each with a separate edge light source

- then when one letter of FILM is achieved 3 leds trigger each a fraction of a second delay to give that hologram movement experience

#3129 8 days ago
Quoted from swinks:

speaking of hologram mods I wonder if there is a different way to approach this as even though a hologram is the ideal, I have often wondered if:
- say you had 3 creature images but each slightly different in design to give a stop motion moving effect, each etched on a separate piece of acrylic stacked on top of each other and each with a separate edge light source
- then when one letter of FILM is achieved 3 leds trigger each a fraction of a second delay to give that hologram movement experience

This is sort of the brainstorming I was trying to get out of everyone with my earlier post. I think something like this is possible for sure. It's a real basic form of lenticular printing essentially.

11
#3130 8 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

This is sort of the brainstorming I was trying to get out of everyone with my earlier post. I think something like this is possible for sure. It's a real basic form of lenticular printing essentially.

I've been working on a new 'ripple' board that replaces the original triac motor playfield board. The idea being it drives two LED strips to create a ripple like water effect, while also lighting the cheaper acrylic etched creature solution that is selling on etsy.

Not finished yet (creature will be lit green on the final rev, and we still have to stop some light bleed) but this is the prototype in action

If multiple acrylics could be stacked, I'm sure this would improve the effect even more.

#3131 8 days ago
Quoted from stumblor:

I've been working on a new 'ripple' board that replaces the original triac motor playfield board. The idea being it drives two LED strips to create a ripple like water effect, while also lighting the cheaper acrylic etched creature solution that is selling on etsy.
Not finished yet (creature will be lit green on the final rev, and we still have to stop some light bleed) but this is the prototype in action

If multiple acrylics could be stacked, I'm sure this would improve the effect even more.

Nice work and cool idea

#3132 8 days ago
Quoted from stumblor:

I've been working on a new 'ripple' board that replaces the original triac motor playfield board. The idea being it drives two LED strips to create a ripple like water effect, while also lighting the cheaper acrylic etched creature solution that is selling on etsy.
Not finished yet (creature will be lit green on the final rev, and we still have to stop some light bleed) but this is the prototype in action

If multiple acrylics could be stacked, I'm sure this would improve the effect even more.

This looks great. I loved that it is building onto an existing idea and making it better. I love the lighting effect. Gives it that cinema lights flashing quality. Nice job!

#3133 8 days ago

Hi guys. I want to upgrade my Creech with LEDs. What's people's views on the following

1. White versus Green or other colour GI bulbs?
2. White or matching insert coloured bulbs
3. Any other ideas to make it look awesome

Cheers

#3134 8 days ago

Sorry meant to add. Any ideas why every alternate bulb in my ramp and bowl doesn't light? One off, one on and so on?

Don't understand electronics lol

#3135 8 days ago
Quoted from Carl71:

Hi guys. I want to upgrade my Creech with LEDs. What's people's views on the following
1. White versus Green or other colour GI bulbs?
2. White or matching insert coloured bulbs
3. Any other ideas to make it look awesome
Cheers

That is complete up to you. Some like only warm white since that is original. I like colored under insert because they make the colours more pop. But would go for warm whites in GI. Same for the ramp. I left in the original lights but dipped the bowl ones green. Again some do not like to much colours, make them puke. I like it if done correctly.

#3136 8 days ago
Quoted from Carl71:

Hi guys. I want to upgrade my Creech with LEDs. What's people's views on the following
1. White versus Green or other colour GI bulbs?
2. White or matching insert coloured bulbs
3. Any other ideas to make it look awesome
Cheers

Here are my general rules for LED'ing any pinball machine;

1. GI remains white. It can be cold white, warm white, or sunlight (personal preference) but it has to remain white. I use frosted lens for GI.
2. Colour matching LEDs for inserts. For orange, use pink. I use Flex head where I can. If it's under the playfield I don't bother using bulbs with lenses.
3. The popular bulb is the 2SMD. However, I find it very bright, so I buy 1SMD. 1SMD and 2SMD are similar in shape and brightness except the 2SMD used two LEDs and the 1SMD uses 1. 2SMD is brighter, but I honestly can't tell them apart. The idea behind 2SMD bulbs is that if one LED fails you have another LED in the same bulb as back up. My thought on this is I would replace it if only one LED failed so why not just get the 1SMD? Both the 1SMD and 2SMD are the same cost. I buy only from Comet Pinball. I have never had a bad experience.

Please keep in mind these are my recommendations based on personal opinion and I typically install a LED OCD board into my games. This is also based on my experience using pins at home only.

Quoted from j_m_:

I've still been working on completing animations here and there over the past couple of years but other projects have always come up and taken precedence (the joust playfields and plastics w/ CPR for and restoring a couple of atari warlords cocktail machines for example.
I did recently pull everything out of the archives again and start working on it which has led to me reworking many of the [unfinished] animations that I started years ago (I'm still a perfectionist to my own detriment). I'm hoping to put together a breadboard with the circuitry to create the necessary interface between the displays and the game's lamp matrix wiring harness soon.
once everything's proved out, whether I end up keeping the project as a one-off or offering them for sale will be revisited. based on how slowly (and off and on) that I've been working on it is the main reason why I never even bothered creating a topic.

Glad to hear things are still proceding in the background, albeit slowly. I personally think this would be a great mod. I hope it happens one day.

#3137 8 days ago

Save your money. Most pins really pop with leds, this is one that does not. All the murky ambiance is lost with leds. You will also loose all the cool dimming and chasing effects unless you spring for OCD boards.

#3138 8 days ago

Thanks for the advice. Think I will leave the Creature as is then. However Any ideas why every alternate bulb in my ramp and bowl doesn't light? One off, one on and so on?

Don't understand electronics

Thanks

#3139 8 days ago
Quoted from Carl71:

Thanks for the advice. Think I will leave the Creature as is then. However Any ideas why every alternate bulb in my ramp and bowl doesn't light? One off, one on and so on?
Don't understand electronics
Thanks

It could be the chase light board. Check to see if that board has any fuses on it,if not check the connecters on it to make sure they are good. I dont remember exactly but there was something to do with fuses when I had a problem with mine.

#3140 8 days ago
Quoted from Carl71:

Thanks for the advice. Think I will leave the Creature as is then. However Any ideas why every alternate bulb in my ramp and bowl doesn't light? One off, one on and so on?
Don't understand electronics
Thanks

While Billy16 is certainly right about the appearance, you will hate pulling ramps just to change a lightbulb. And that includes the numerous mini lamps under the ramps and bowl. For me, my games need to draw less power and emit less heat, and I have the MikeD mod constantly running (definitely loses the murkiness factor) so I went LEDs. You won't really find a consensus, there are pros and cons to both incandescent and LED.

Most important thing? No clown puke! Don't wash out the colors of the artwork. It's already beautiful.

#3141 8 days ago

I double the no clown puke.

#3142 8 days ago
Quoted from Jackalwere:

While Billy16 is certainly right about the appearance, you will hate pulling ramps just to change a lightbulb. And that includes the numerous mini lamps under the ramps and bowl. For me, my games need to draw less power and emit less heat, and I have the MikeD mod constantly running (definitely loses the murkiness factor) so I went LEDs. You won't really find a consensus, there are pros and cons to both incandescent and LED.
Most important thing? No clown puke! Don't wash out the colors of the artwork. It's already beautiful.

Sir, you make some good points. You just reminded me that when I lit my pops I used leds--no way I wanna go back in there again anytime soon.

#3143 7 days ago

Anyone else have this sticker on there apron I’ve only just noticed it lol? The white special sticker.
4308DD76-9ED3-4982-B1BA-A37A4E063D2C (resized).jpeg

#3144 7 days ago
Quoted from Gorgar1:

Anyone else have this sticker on there apron I’ve only just noticed it lol? The white special sticker.
[quoted image]

no, haven't seen that before - mine has this bracket with no decal - wonder if at some stage it was meant to be a target as it says special on the playfield as well

IMG_3554 - Version 2 (resized).JPG
#3145 7 days ago

Mine doesn’t have that bracket Jady, it’s just that thick silver “special” sticker. It’s there to cover a hole in the apron I checked by removing the apron card.

7FEC6917-AC9B-4E3A-B4F8-4DFF9BC9F164 (resized).jpegB5671105-926F-42AF-9FB5-9F2D99A06A75 (resized).jpegFAAE2FC9-2B5D-4B97-B5D0-CF49070A0CEB (resized).jpeg
#3146 7 days ago
Quoted from Gorgar1:

Mine doesn’t have that bracket Jady, it’s just that thick silver “special” sticker. It’s there to cover a hole in the apron I checked by removing the apron card. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If you want me to replicate the bracket, let me know in the next couple of days while things are apart before the game soon goes.

#3147 7 days ago
Quoted from swinks:

If you want me to replicate the bracket, let me know in the next couple of days while things are apart before the game soon goes.

Yes please Jady I’d love a bracket Did I read that right Creech is going? :/

#3148 7 days ago
Quoted from Gorgar1:

Yes please Jady I’d love a bracket Did I read that right Creech is going? :/

yes, downsizing to one pin, need to do reno's, need space in the shed for other projects and want to do a Bally Skill Roll variation game - Swinks Style

I will do the bracket today

#3149 7 days ago

here is the bracket that fills the gap on the lhs of the apron - I will do a test print later and then make available in 2 options - original in the metal option and then thicker for the plastic option 2.5mm thick as the metal version is only 1.2mm thick.

If you want the test plastic version happy to send if you don't mind covering the postage

gap bracket (resized).png
#3150 6 days ago

here is a concept for a cover over the rhs of the bowl to cover up holes etc - currently 10mm high and a second version will have allowance for the regular switch to function underneath it.

thoughts guys - ignore the print lines and once available at shapeways there will be black, green and other colours available.

IMG_3719 (resized).JPG
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