gunstarhero chasers are fine yes

Can I ask what it is? Could you link it please.

Thx Peter.

so what LED OCD does is take control of the lamp matrix in a game. So it can do a few things. Most importantly, it resolves "strobing" – the flicker you can get LEDS... and it will resolve ghosting – lights not fully turning off. in addition to that, you get very nice smooth transitions of the lights turning on and off the way the games where intended to behave. I have them in 2 of the 4 machines I own that have LEDS. Some games behave pretty well on their own, and others do not, the creature is one of those.
http://ledocd.com/

Really? That is fantastic. I didn't clue in that it was solely a GI OCD issue but a non-issue with the LED OCD. This is great news! Thank you for clarifying!

Tech question: my popper (M in film area) popped off

I can find the part online which is the round cup for the ball, but the long piece it screws into (which goes into the coil) is not labeled in the manual. It looks like the bottom of it, which I presume attaches to something, got chipped... I slid it back in and of course it shot out like a rocket into the ball guide doh.

The only luck I’ve had is the entire assembly, which is out of stock everywhere.

Any idea what part number this is so I can fix? Cheers.

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Hi GB,

Review the diagram below and take a look at item # 10 which is part number A-14585 (Armature and Extension Assembly) as I believe that this is the part that broke on your CFTBL.

Marco's has this part in stock.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch;jsessionid=99383356430A4E174A0AD1E2E6DE5D54.jvm1?SEARCH_STRING=A-14585

Action Pinball also has this part in stock.

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-14585

Gord

EDIT: I'm an idiot and you are correct, cheers!

Hey thanks! Unfortunately that’s not the right one. The piece I uploaded pictures of is different, I believe yours is for a different popper setup. Mine is the M in film area.

C49CE0C3-FCC2-4FE1-B889-1E19A5531CE8 (resized).png

A-14585 is the right plunger for the Slide (M letter) as the one at the end of the subway, while pretty much the same, is about a half inch shorter:

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=02-4668

You're going to have to remove the whole popper assembly from below the PF, then you take the screw out of the bit you are holding in the top pic and remove the ball cup, and then remove the coil from the bracket by taking the 2 screws out of the coil bracket, pull out the coil and the old plunger will basically fall out (save that spring!) and you slide the new plunger in from the bottom of the coil, then reinstall the coil and spring (may as well replace the coil sleeve while you're in there) then put the ball cup on top and resinstall the popper assembly. Pretty easy operation, should take you about 7 screws.

Has anyone installed Pinsound board with the Wool mix? The file doesn't seem to be accessible on the pinsound community board.

Thank you gunstarhero and GRB1959 for the help!

I do. You need to make an account to download it. If that doesn't work for some reason PM me and I can upload it for you

GorillaBiscuits looks like u may need the dowel as well unless u can find it, prolly in the bottom of the cab somewhere
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9314-7

No, that's part of the extended armature (plunger) part, he won't need that.

Ug already placed the order! I thought that was already attached to the plunger... the black piece?

Ahh that’s right gunstarhero but that dowel usually falls out when it breaks right?

I believe I'm holding it LOL. It had been ejected halfway through the ball guide with the cup still attached to it. I blew F116 when it happened, thought it was a simple power overload from my new pinsound but something obviously shorted in the mechanism during the mayhem.

After replacing my fuse and playing a test game the ball went into the hole, albeit much lower than usual... four sad attempts later it popped up and slammed into that piece which I hadn't even noticed. Oh pinball, you so crazy

Huh. I doubt the fuse blow and the popper problem are related... it's an opto switch and there's really nothing to short unless the coil has some kind of physical damage. And f116 isn't a coil fuse.

If guess the popper probably got stuck up (maybe on a dirty sleeve) once or twice and the ball slammed into it. It's a 25 year old part so it's not at it's best already. So it cracks, but falls back in and one of the following times you hit the slide it just gives up.

I'll check in next week after I get my replacement part. Thanks again for your help!

No worries! It's just good timing, i just rebuilt those poppers when I shopped my Kreatur so it was still fresh in my head!

I have been adjusting my CFTBL since I put new ramps in. Now when I plunge the ball to go around for the kiss shot the ball will hit the post. It used to always go around. Did I push the ball guide into the right corner too far? Should the arch be into the playfield more? Thanks.

Hey guys, so I’m ask pat done installing my tail light mod, wow what a procedure. Anyway the instructions call for just pushing the power lines into the back of existing j118 and j117... I’m not really a fan of this because if u have to completely remove the speaker panel ur kinda screwed...

what have others done?

I ordered 2 4 pin connectors and 2 male to male 4 pin adapters

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you could make a double adapter piggy back lead

swinks would u mind elaborating?

I made leads similar to what would help you when I was doing the snackbar mod v1

if you need to fit wiring to 1 plug you will need:
- 2 x female plugs and
- 1 x z connector

* double this if you need to do 2 sets of leads.

Then
- take one plug that would plug into your board and then fit your wire (from the taillight mod) into the plug as per whatever the layout is recommended and then say 4" down the line of the same wiring fit on a second plug (keep the orientation exactly the same and wire passing through both sides of the second plug)
- then on the first plug fit to your board and then on the second plug 4" down the line connect up a Z connector
- then take your existing original CFTBL plug and plug it into the other side of the z connector

you may need to install small 4" wires into the other slots as 2 slots provide 12v and 2 slots provide 5v

the image below is from my v1 manual, sorry not the most detailed picture but hopeful the pic and details is enough.

screen-capture-4 (resized).png

Hey guys. Sadly, I left the club a few months ago. Loved having my Creech but needed the room for an incoming pin and was time to sell it to someone else to enjoy for a while. I did a lot of restoration work on mine and have some items left over. I have these items listed on EBAY. I'm selling a collection of new reproductions and old original plastics. The old pieces are intact. Selling as one lot. The second item is a green plastic lagoon cover that I think I got from Pinballlife. It has the decals attached. I used that for about a month and decided I liked the clear plastic better. I believe this also fits on CONGO. Send me an IM if you have any questions. Cy

ebay.com link: itm

ebay.com link: itm

bingo swinks thats exactly what I had in mind and those where the parts I ordered! Thank you so much. When is your snack back bar v3 coking out ... have to keep bugging you because it’s just so awesome cheers

glad it helped at least provide a visual

as for the Snackbar mod v3 - soon - wanted to finish the cnc - got it running at least this weekend, not calibrated yet but at least I can switch to another project.

Which post are you referring to? The green Cliffy post in my pics

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Yes that is the one. I loosened the metal ball guide and made the curve more round. That helped but it still may hit the post. I pull the rod back all the way carefully to get the ball to go around most of the time.

Worked like a charm thanks, @swinks, sadly there is something wrong with the panel, as none of the taillights work but everything else does.

IMG_4921 (resized).JPG

awesome Soulrider911

did you check voltage are getting through all your wires, maybe a bad push in / connection on a 5 or 12v line????

swinks got er working, I just needed to really shove the wires into the back of the connectors harder... just was not getting a solid connection.

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what insertion tool are you using, if it is the Pinballlife one, they don't really cut it as have plastic teeth and why I ended up designing my own or you can get them from other places

excuse the plug but the steel teeth make a difference in the insertion of the wire into your plug

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=swinksidc

I think you are entitled to a plug after all the dedication you have given this thread and pin.

I've recently sold my creature and have the following parts available if anyone is interested. I'm headed to TPF tomorrow so ping me if you want me to bring something:

- NOS set of plastics. Not reproduction. Full set including promo stuff.
- New Reese Rails
- New PinballDecals target decals.
- New Mantis Protectors
- Used set of ramps. A few cracks and one has a repaired entrance.

NoMonkey
pm'ed you about your set of plastics

swinks this is great u are correct I was using the plastic “ t handle” one From pinball life I’m going to order yours

gunstarhero Update... I installed it no problem, but the cup is sitting up slightly too high and of course the optos are picking it up. It fires over and over since it thinks it's a ball.

Would the best course of action be to simply cut off a bit of the black end that the cup screws into? Not sure how far down the threads go. Adding washers under the entire mech wouldn't work as the optos would move down with the entire thing as well.

Cheers.

You can either:
Remove the rubber stopper on the bottom of the metal bracket if there is a LOT of room you need to move the plunger down, or
Slightly, SLIGHTLY bend the bottom metal bracket down some to get it to sit lower.

Interesting, yeah it definitely needs to go down a fair amount. Would removing the rubber stopper have any negative effects on wear and tear etc...?

Curious if there might be a slightly shorter part in production I could pick up as well, and why the recommended piece the manual calls out is too long.

Thanks @coyote!!!

Hmmm... looks like I grabbed the wrong part. This seems to be 1/4 shorter and should do the job.

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Oh crap, I told you backwards. I checked the manual again... A-14585 is the plunger for the SUBWAY and 02-4668 is for the slide. I don't know how I did that... I'm sorry dude.

I'm sure you can modify the one you bought, or put it in the coin box for insurance against future failures...

No worries! I'll try snipping the old one and if that doesn't work I'll just grab a new one. Cheers.

Nevermind what I said, then!

So close to a billion for the first time!

So when you get 3X everything in Multiball does that include super jackpot? This game was twice as high as my previous GC score hah

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Yep, pretty sure it does!

Great game!!

Yes it sure does include super jackpot

I'm finishing up a Creech cabinet swap. Any idea of the value of a used cabinet? I would hate to scrap it, but I need the space. By the way. Paul at Virtua Pin does amazing work. I had him build me a new cabinet and install my decals. His work exceeded my expectation and I'm picky about details.

Do you guys wax your game? Do you go right over the window?

I use Novus 1 on the window and the whole playfield.