(Topic ID: 79267)

CFTBL- Fans and members welcome!!!


By vilant

6 years ago



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There are 3030 posts in this topic. You are on page 50 of 61.
#2451 11 months ago

All Bally Williams PFs starting with T2 are “diamond plate” but various companies made PFs and not all of them used the logo.

Here’s an article with a bunch of info, including a big section on Diamond Plate: https://www.flippers.be/pinball_playfields.html

#2452 11 months ago

Got a unusual problem with my creech

problem 1 - last week the sound disappeared for an hour and then turned off and left for a while and then turned on and working fine. This hasn't happened but might be linked to the next problem.

problem 2 - when I play a game, every time I flip the flippers various mode lights flick on momentarily and then go off. It has been a cold day.

anyone got any tips and experienced similar ???? any help / tips would be much appreciated.

#2453 11 months ago

Jady, I have not experienced the issue that you have, but would suggest re-seating all of the ribbon cables if you have not already done so. Quick and easy to do.......may or may not resolve problem.

#2454 11 months ago

I did do this and the problem has seemed to have stopped, thanks for the suggestion

#2455 11 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

Got a unusual problem with my creech
problem 1 - last week the sound disappeared for an hour and then turned off and left for a while and then turned on and working fine. This hasn't happened but might be linked to the next problem.
problem 2 - when I play a game, every time I flip the flippers various mode lights flick on momentarily and then go off. It has been a cold day.
anyone got any tips and experienced similar ???? any help / tips would be much appreciated.

Swinks, my Creech lost sound at one time also. I think the remedy for my game was that the sound chips needed to be reseated. Glad to see you got the game fixed.

#2456 11 months ago

Give the ASIC also a good push while you're at it

#2457 11 months ago

Joined the club about a month ago or so!

Ironed out most of the issues. Just need to figure out a stuck light matrix issue. F in film, P in PAID, Ball save/ticket light between flippers are all stuck on, and a few others. Snackbar scoop is also rejecting nearly every shot and only a smooth indirect bounce in ever makes it in.

Love this game

5CBB57A4-D661-4FB7-9332-EE00FF094574 (resized).jpeg
#2458 11 months ago
Quoted from freegame450:

Jady, I have not experienced the issue that you have, but would suggest re-seating all of the ribbon cables if you have not already done so. Quick and easy to do.......may or may not resolve problem.

Quoted from wiggy07:

Swinks, my Creech lost sound at one time also. I think the remedy for my game was that the sound chips needed to be reseated. Glad to see you got the game fixed.

Quoted from Thor-NL:

Give the ASIC also a good push while you're at it

thanks guys, much appreciated

basically I pushed down on all the chips, plugs to make sure they were seated nicely and had read about the ribbon cables so removed and reseated and all working nicely.

even though this game is a players (cabinet is beat up) from Europe this hasn't missed a beat in 7 years , meaning haven't had to touch the leads etc for a long time, just battery changes.

all good for the moment

cheers

Jady

#2459 11 months ago
Quoted from advans13:

Joined the club about a month ago or so!
Ironed out most of the issues. Just need to figure out a stuck light matrix issue. F in film, P in PAID, Ball save/ticket light between flippers are all stuck on, and a few others. Snackbar scoop is also rejecting nearly every shot and only a smooth indirect bounce in ever makes it in.
Love this game [quoted image]

if any of the problem lights are on boards (not sockets), re-flow the solder as sometimes the solder can crack and when the weather warms up the solder slightly separates and the power to the light is lost but on a cold day will be fine

#2460 11 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

if any of the problem lights are on boards (not sockets), re-flow the solder as sometimes the solder can crack and when the weather warms up the solder slightly separates and the power to the light is lost but on a cold day will be fine

Yup a couple are on the light boards. Just been lazy.

#2461 11 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

if any of the problem lights are on boards (not sockets), re-flow the solder as sometimes the solder can crack and when the weather warms up the solder slightly separates and the power to the light is lost but on a cold day will be fine

Quoted from advans13:

Yup a couple are on the light boards. Just been lazy.

Your lights are stuck on correct? That will be a board issue in my past experience.

#2462 11 months ago

Are they LEDs? My CFTBL has some pretty serious LED ghosting, which could make someone think they have a light stuck on?

#2463 11 months ago

Joined the club!
Does anyone find it better using a mantis or cliffy for shots on the scoop? Finding the mantis still bricks a lot of shots.

Anyone know where to get a decently priced plastic set as well?

IMG_4213 (resized).jpg
#2464 11 months ago

I use both a mantis and cliffy on my RFM and don't have any issues.

I think with CftBL, it's more the flowerpot rubber and the scoop itself that cause rejections. I would check to see if the weldment on the snackbar scoop has given and the scoop is bent backwards a bit after years of being struck

#2465 11 months ago

I have a Cliffy in my CFTBL. No problem with shooting the snack bar shot.

#2466 11 months ago

Cliffy on mine also zero issues

#2467 11 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar1:

Cliffy on mine also zero issues

Same here

#2468 11 months ago

Just remove any protection and let the hole get all blown out, and it becomes a lot easier!

#2469 11 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Just remove any protection and let the hole get all blown out, and it becomes a lot easier!

CFTBL was the first pin I ever purchased. Built in March of '93 I got it in late '94 and it was in pretty good shape. Being a noob back then I did not realize that the snackbar hole was already worn. 25 years later the game still plays great and still is in great shape - except for the snackbar hole. I see that Mirco has just reproduced CFTBL playfields and I contemplate dropping a grand on one just because of that hole wear. But the game already looks and plays great, so I probably wouldn't actually take the time to install the new playfield. So why should I buy a playfield for it? Just so I can say I have it if someone criticizes the worn hole? Am I that concerned with impressing others with my possessions? I'm not just being rhetorical; I'm actually asking these questions. I'm still considering spending the thousand dollars while CFTBL playfields are still available (just to have it) and am looking for opinions.

#2470 11 months ago
Quoted from littlecammi:

So why should I buy a playfield for it? Just so I can say I have it if someone criticizes the worn hole?

I would not unless you never intend on playing it again. Otherwise, even a new Micro will wear there. Put a Cliffy on what you have if you haven't already. Mine works great with a Cliffy, no issues at all and it looks good.

#2471 11 months ago

Picked up my CFTBL in 2006. I've just got my Mirco playfield, so I'm starting my tear down and rebuild: new playfield, flippers, rubbers, posts, coils, install speaker panel tail light mod, Swinks snackbar mod, Pinsound, new speakers, LEDs, lighted bumpers etc. Lucky for me the ramps are all in beautiful condition.

Check out the start button counter that was taped to the playfield under the apron...
counter (resized).JPG

#2472 11 months ago
Quoted from littlecammi:

CFTBL was the first pin I ever purchased. Built in March of '93 I got it in late '94 and it was in pretty good shape. Being a noob back then I did not realize that the snackbar hole was already worn. 25 years later the game still plays great and still is in great shape - except for the snackbar hole. I see that Mirco has just reproduced CFTBL playfields and I contemplate dropping a grand on one just because of that hole wear. But the game already looks and plays great, so I probably wouldn't actually take the time to install the new playfield. So why should I buy a playfield for it? Just so I can say I have it if someone criticizes the worn hole? Am I that concerned with impressing others with my possessions? I'm not just being rhetorical; I'm actually asking these questions. I'm still considering spending the thousand dollars while CFTBL playfields are still available (just to have it) and am looking for opinions.

Buy a snack bar cliffy which covers the worn area and keep the original PF that’s what I would do because as you said the original PF is still in great condition

#2473 11 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar1:

Buy a snack bar cliffy which covers the worn area and keep the original PF that’s what I would do because as you said the original PF is still in great condition

You can’t just slap a Cliffy over the wear unless it’s superficial (which on CFTBL usually isn’t the case), you need to repair it first or the Cliffy will just get bent to hell.

#2474 11 months ago
Quoted from littlecammi:

CFTBL was the first pin I ever purchased. Built in March of '93 I got it in late '94 and it was in pretty good shape. Being a noob back then I did not realize that the snackbar hole was already worn. 25 years later the game still plays great and still is in great shape - except for the snackbar hole. I see that Mirco has just reproduced CFTBL playfields and I contemplate dropping a grand on one just because of that hole wear. But the game already looks and plays great, so I probably wouldn't actually take the time to install the new playfield. So why should I buy a playfield for it? Just so I can say I have it if someone criticizes the worn hole? Am I that concerned with impressing others with my possessions? I'm not just being rhetorical; I'm actually asking these questions. I'm still considering spending the thousand dollars while CFTBL playfields are still available (just to have it) and am looking for opinions.

If you don't mind the down time, I'd recommend sending out your original for restoration. If you don't want to wait between, I'd secondly recommend going with a new one but sending it out to kruzman for a proper full clear. I went restoration route on mine 2 years ago and it really looks and plays great. Repro's were only some IPB's, NOS or used as you know until now. I have a SP version so it's not the hot pink most want, but I like the original.

And since you've owned yours a long time, you know how much on the top there is to teardown. But honestly it was one of the easier swaps I've done.

#2475 11 months ago

I've been thinking about getting a new playfield for my CFTBL as well. I know Kruzman does a wonderful job clear coating playfields, but is the original clear coat really bad enough to justify the extra expense? I have a Mirco playfield on my Houdini and it dimples like every other playfield I have. Will Kruzman's prevent this?

#2476 11 months ago

no playfield is hard enough to prevent ball strike damage. it's wood against steel. older games don't tend to show the abuse as much due to one of the two following conditions:
1. the ball never leaves the surface of the playfield (no air balls = no dimpling)
2. the ball(s) have dimpled the playfield so much that it has compressed the top layer(s) of wood so that the dimpling is no longer as noticable

CftBL is a game that doesn't have too many places where air balls can occur, however the drop area from the whirlpool, low ball sling rubber rings, bent snack bar targets and the inverted flowerpot rubber left of the snackbar hole can cause air balls that lead to ball strikes and dimpling

#2477 11 months ago

3. The speed of the ball is higher on newer games.

#2478 11 months ago

Its such a hard game.. My best scores only around 240 mill for the few weeks iv had it lol. Struggle is real. Anyway great game though im contemplating getting a new playfield as mine has touchups around the flippers and such but I tihkn they are around 1700 landed in aus

#2479 11 months ago

Anyone know a source for these white screw brackets from the flexible chase ramp boards that hold the inside the ramp? I’m one short. Any help or alternative solutions would be appreciated.

Also, I have a small corner of Mylar coming up around the back pop bumper. Have most of you removed the Mylar entirely or just left it as is? I’m torn between trimming the raised part or removing the whole thing.

F52FD27B-0881-4947-89D0-DBDB7DA330B7 (resized).jpeg
#2480 11 months ago
Quoted from tjprice222:

Anyone know a source for these white screw brackets from the flexible chase ramp boards that hold the inside the ramp? I’m one short. Any help or alternative solutions would be appreciated.
Also, I have a small corner of Mylar coming up around the back pop bumper. Have most of you removed the Mylar entirely or just left it as is? I’m torn between trimming the raised part or removing the whole thing.[quoted image]

Curious on the mylar responses as well.

#2481 11 months ago

Bump for the morning crowd - looking for the screw brackets for the chase light boards and Mylar removal input. Thanks!

#2482 11 months ago

Are replacements available for the ramp boards? I’m fixing up a recent CFTBL purchase.

Two lamps were out on a segment of the mini ramp light board. I jumpered them from lamps on the same board that were working and they came on. This worked so I figured an easy solution would be to solder a wire between the good and the bad lamps. Now all four lamps that don’t come on. They are still out after removing the soldered jumper wire.

I’ve tested the transistors on the chase lamp board and they all seem okay. These four lamps will come on if I jumper them from working lamps on the same board.

#2483 11 months ago
Quoted from cadmium:

Are replacements available for the ramp boards? I’m fixing up a recent CFTBL purchase.
Two lamps were out on a segment of the mini ramp light board. I jumpered them from lamps on the same board that were working and they came on. This worked so I figured an easy solution would be to solder a wire between the good and the bad lamps. Now all four lamps that don’t come on. They are still out after removing the soldered jumper wire.
I’ve tested the transistors on the chase lamp board and they all seem okay. These four lamps will come on if I jumper them from working lamps on the same board.

I’ve never seen replacement ramp lights, and replacement whirlpool boards seem to have dried up too. I keep wondering how long until one of our resident geniuses like Swinks comes up with a solution.

#2484 11 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

I’ve never seen replacement ramp lights, and replacement whirlpool boards seem to have dried up too. I keep wondering how long until one of our resident geniuses like Swinks comes up with a solution.

thanks gunstarhero

I just pulled one of those clip blocks out of my game and I will design it and make available by the end of today....

as for the lights, Comet Pinball should target those.

#2485 11 months ago
Quoted from tjprice222:

Bump for the morning crowd - looking for the screw brackets for the chase light boards and Mylar removal input. Thanks!

I will have the screw brackets designed and available by the end of today.

As for the mylar, it depends at what stage you are with your playfield and how big the lift up is - depends if you are cleaning up or restoring. Removing the mylar puts at risk of pulling up clear / art, if doing a basic cleanup just carefully trim back = some protection is better than not in place.

#2486 11 months ago

ok, here are the chase lamp mounting blocks available individually and as a 4 pack (cheaper option) with 5 colour options.
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=swinkscftblchase
710x528_28096453_15163031_1561849050 (resized).png
710x528_28096619_15163095_1561850051 (resized).png

as a selfish plug here are all my designs for CFTBL
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinkscftbl&sort=newest

and here are all my designs covering many games
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinks&sort=newest

also have limited parts for DIY Snackbar Mod Kits and you order the rest at Shapeways and paint up yourself
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=snackbarv3kustom&sort=newest

CFTBL Snackbar 3.0 kustom kit - Manual rev4.pdf

#2487 11 months ago

My Creature has a new problem today. Both the round multiball film lights are on during startup. They stay on during the game. The metal ramp is also in the lowered position. I could not see any wires off under the playfield. All the switches are good. I manually set the ramp up and started multiball. The ramp will not go down and the lights are always on. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

#2488 11 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

My Creature has a new problem today. Both the round multiball film lights are on during startup. They stay on during the game. The metal ramp is also in the lowered position. I could not see any wires off under the playfield. All the switches are good. I manually set the ramp up and started multiball. The ramp will not go down and the lights are always on. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

For the ramp, check the circuit board and connectors. Under the playfield, left hand side, half way down.

20190506_105208 (resized).jpg
#2489 11 months ago

Thanks. I think this only controls the 2 VUKs. The ramp diverter has purple wires. Purple wires go to power driver and fliptronic boards. Still no luck. The 2 round film lights come on as soon as the pin is turned on before anything else is on. I reset some connections with no luck.

#2490 11 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Thanks. I think this only controls the 2 VUKs. The ramp diverter has purple wires. Purple wires go to power driver and fliptronic boards. Still no luck. The 2 round film lights come on as soon as the pin is turned on before anything else is on. I reset some connections with no luck.

Assume you mean the two flashers in between START MOVIE inserts (Second Photo) or the round insert inlane lights (First pic) or ?

DSCN1885 (resized).JPGDSCN1886 (resized).JPG
#2491 11 months ago

The ones between the start movie are lit up right away. Your second picture.

#2492 11 months ago

I tested the up and down for the diverter in test mode. They will not work.

#2493 11 months ago

I’d start by reseating the ribbon cables and giving the asic chip a little push and wiggle. Then check J107 (slot 6 is for flashers and 1 is for the ramp) check the pins/plug and wire connections. Follow the wires to see if they’re frayed along the way. Then move on to Q26 which controls those flashers and Q24 which controls the ramp.

#2494 11 months ago

No luck yet. Which chip is asic? Everything looks OK. Reseated all cables. How do you check the transistors? They look OK.

#2495 11 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

No luck yet. Which chip is asic? Everything looks OK. Re-seated all cables. How do you check the transistors? They look OK.

the asic is the large square chip on the mpu board. make sure that you remove the board from your machine and are supporting the board from the back side under the chip(s) that you are attempting to reseat so that you are not flexing and causing unnecessary stress on the board.

while you have the board out, I would also check for cold solder joints on the connectors (especially those for the ribbon cables leading to the other boards in the backbox) and reflow the ones that look suspect

#2496 11 months ago

I pulled the center 2a SB fuse under J107. It is bad. Replaced and blew immediately after start up. Could either of the diverter coils be bad? The large coil looks ok. The small coil has some wires coming off and has black dust on it. Could not find any bad wires.

#2497 11 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Could either of the diverter coils be bad?

Check if they are not melted with an multimeter on Ohms setting.

#2498 11 months ago

These are the readings. Thanks.

20190705_191421 (resized).jpg
#2499 11 months ago

I took out both diverter coils and now the 2 lights are off. I think the small side coil is bad. 11.3 ohms seems high.
I also noticed 3 of the other coils are not the right as listed in the manual.
Does the left flipper have to be a 15411? Mine has right and left 11629's.

#2500 11 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I took out both diverter coils and now the 2 lights are off. I think the small side coil is bad. 11.3 ohms seems high.
I also noticed 3 of the other coils are not the right as listed in the manual.
Does the left flipper have to be a 15411? Mine has right and left 11629's.

15411 on the left side and 11629 on the right side.

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