Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:Just purchased and installed the only reproduction creature hologram from Pinball Center, and I wanted to post up a quick review.
https://www.pinball.center/en/shopware.php?sViewport=detail&sArticle=9947
Install was easy and straight forward. I did have to trim the sheet just a bit to make it properly fit the frame, but that was about it. Overall it turned out very nice, and have no regrets. The holographic image is a bit smaller that the original, but still serves the purpose well. With the original incandescent bulb, the image was faint. But with the 70watt equivalent LED bulb, it was more than bright enough.
I really want to thank Zitt for purchasing this on my behalf and selling it to me for just over $250.00. If I had purchased it directly, it would have been just over a grand. Yep, they wanted $900 shipping to the USA. Clearly they don't want to make the effort to ship overseas.
So if anyone wants one of the only reproduction holograms for CFTBL, you might try reaching out to Zitt. I definitely recommend it.
-PinDoc
[quoted image]
My client purchased a second one of these holograms, and he might be interested in selling it. Not sure for how much. If anyone is interested, reach out to me through a PM.
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:OK so I’ve spent the time reading the manual and found where to fix most of my issues.
But I still have a dodgy K-I-S-S micro switch.
Can somebody show where to find a replacement micro switch, please?
You can buy either just the replacement switch (you'll need to re-use the actuator arm from your existing switch) or you can buy a new switch with the specific actuator arm for that location. Page 2-41 of the manual shows the specific switch part numbers.
RTBB in Melb has both options in stock
https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/switch-subminiature-bare-5647-12693-00/
https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/micro-switch-5647-12693-21/
Quoted from Jakers:I fixed my locked on flashers by replacing Q40.
Also noticed my left pop bumper scores but doesn’t fire. Connections at the coil and connector J127-6 look good so I replaced Q50. The pop bumper still isn’t firing. What would the next step in troubleshooting?
Quoted from Jakers:I also piggybacked an extra coil I had lying around onto the non working coil. Tested and not working with that coil either.
Have you checked if you have 50V at the coil?
Pinwiki details how to troubleshoot this issue https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Coil_Fails_to_Work
Quoted from Digduglus:So I've got the wedge socket pop bumper bases here finally and ready to install them. Just wondering where to solder the wires to. On the flashes I'm assuming? Just looking for a start
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I connected my pops to the left rear flasher. That flasher lights when the pops are hit.
Quoted from Manny65:You can buy either just the replacement switch (you'll need to re-use the actuator arm from your existing switch) or you can buy a new switch with the specific actuator arm for that location. Page 2-41 of the manual shows the specific switch part numbers.
RTBB in Melb has both options in stock
https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/switch-subminiature-bare-5647-12693-00/
https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/micro-switch-5647-12693-21/
Cheers Manny,
Just ordered the complete switch. Didn’t even know this site existed, I’ve always just used Pinball Spares in Bayswater.
Thank you.
Im in love !!
I just had the opportunity to play a bunch of games at the Dutch pinball museum (an awesome (must) place to visit for any pinball fan btw).
I off course knew about the Creature, but never was interested in it.. the looks of the machine just never attracted me.
After playing a bunch on some of the highest rated and most loved pinball machines, I decided to give the creature a go… oh man.. from the get go it got me hooked. Catchy music and sound and a gameplay that’s not to easy but also not hard. I like this machine more than most of the high rated games I’ve played.
Quoted from Vin-bot:Im in love !!
I just had the opportunity to play a bunch of games at the Dutch pinball museum (an awesome (must) place to visit for any pinball fan btw).
I off course knew about the Creature, but never was interested in it.. the looks of the machine just never attracted me.
After playing a bunch on some of the highest rated and most loved pinball machines, I decided to give the creature a go… oh man.. from the get go it got me hooked. Catchy music and sound and a gameplay that’s not to easy but also not hard. I like this machine more than most of the high rated games I’ve played.
And now you have to play it in a home environment, so much better. DPM has a great collection but does not beat the home environment.
Question regarding power for the Lighted Speaker Panel. Purchased the panel and when I test it the LCD Color DMD does not work. Currently the game has Stadium Lights and the Color LCD running without issue. I am obviously in need of more power than is available to add the speaker panel but wondering if anyone else has had this issue or has suggestions how to run all 3 of these adds at once. Thanks
No issue running snackbar mod plus Add-on plus colordmd, plus extra ledstrip in the back, plus pinsound, plus Shaker, plus taillightmod. But with all lamps to led. Excluding the ramp lights.
Quoted from Pinball13:Question regarding power for the Lighted Speaker Panel. Purchased the panel and when I test it the LCD Color DMD does not work. Currently the game has Stadium Lights and the Color LCD running without issue. I am obviously in need of more power than is available to add the speaker panel but wondering if anyone else has had this issue or has suggestions how to run all 3 of these adds at once. Thanks
I'm having issues! I have lighted speaker panels, color dmd, pinsound, lighted side rail lights, stumblor's snackbar addition to swinks snack bar mod, the cabinet woofer amp, and I recently added stumblor whirlpool light ramp. Once I put it the whirlpool ramp light board I got power issues where the color dmd display was being all wonky and the flippers would be weird (sticking up, randomly flipping or unresponsive). People posted I need to get an external power source, which I plan on doing. I just wanted to figure out where to put my leads to test the voltage going to the flippers and various additions to make sure that's what it is and not something else as well, like my main power or something going bad. Been sort of short on time, but would like it sorted out this week. I'm going to order the solderless xpon rectifier board for my paragon this week as my connector pins are burnt up, so just seeing if theres anything else i should put on the order... Are you having flipper issues too? That's my big issue, now my color dmd is going fine but both flippers will randomly stick up, or flip on their own or not flip....
Quoted from bobwiley:I'm having issues! I have lighted speaker panels, color dmd, pinsound, lighted side rail lights, stumblor's snackbar addition to swinks snack bar mod, the cabinet woofer amp, and I recently added stumblor whirlpool light ramp. Once I put it the whirlpool ramp light board I got power issues where the color dmd display was being all wonky and the flippers would be weird (sticking up, randomly flipping or unresponsive). People posted I need to get an external power source, which I plan on doing. I just wanted to figure out where to put my leads to test the voltage going to the flippers and various additions to make sure that's what it is and not something else as well, like my main power or something going bad. Been sort of short on time, but would like it sorted out this week. I'm going to order the solderless xpon rectifier board for my paragon this week as my connector pins are burnt up, so just seeing if theres anything else i should put on the order... Are you having flipper issues too? That's my big issue, now my color dmd is going fine but both flippers will randomly stick up, or flip on their own or not flip....
Hey mate so this is almost certainly the 12v rail getting overloaded (the chase echo is powered via that 12v source) colour dmd same. Not sure about your other mods but more than likely 12v. Without getting deep into the schematics I can't say why this is affecting your flippers but prob related (someone else chime in?).
Getting an external PSU when running lots of mods is always a good idea, and that would be my advice here. More info on how to do that here
https://stumblorpinball.com/blogs/news/adding-an-external-psu-to-a-pinball-machine-wpc
Feel free to PM any questions
Quoted from stumblor:Hey mate so this is almost certainly the 12v rail getting overloaded (the chase echo is powered via that 12v source) colour dmd same. Not sure about your other mods but more than likely 12v. Without getting deep into the schematics I can't say why this is affecting your flippers but prob related (someone else chime in?).
Getting an external PSU when running lots of mods is always a good idea, and that would be my advice here. More info on how to do that here
https://stumblorpinball.com/blogs/news/adding-an-external-psu-to-a-pinball-machine-wpc
Feel free to PM any questions
Thanks for the info!
Quoted from Manny65:Have you checked if you have 50V at the coil?
Pinwiki details how to troubleshoot this issue https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Coil_Fails_to_Work
I do have voltage at the coil. All 3 pops are tied together with the larger purple/orange stripe wire. The other 2 pops work fine so I know it’s not an issue with that wire. I already replaced the Q50 transistor which didn’t help my issue. The pop will not fire when I test the solenoid in the game menu. Is there a pre-driver associated with Q50 that could be the issue?
Quoted from AJC3030:Should there be this much of a gap between the front of the window and the edge of the playfield? Leveling out the window and having a tough time with that section
[quoted image]
I'll pull out a window tomorrow and an NOS playfield to show you a clear picture of what you should have gap wise
Quoted from j_m_:I'll pull out a window tomorrow and an NOS playfield to show you a clear picture of what you should have gap wise
Awesome thanks !
Hologram issue!
Working on a CFTBL for a friend and the hologram does not work. With not work I mean: the whole mechanism and lamp work, but you can not see anything. I cleaned both the mirror and the hologram, but it did not help. Moving the lamp closer does nothing either. Shining on the hologram with a flashlight does show the creature.
Anyone got a clue? What are my options?
Looks like Your hologram is in the way out.
Don’t know if it’s Sunlight that does it, or what.
Over time they fade and go black..
Quoted from bobwiley:I recently added stumblor whirlpool light ramp.
Wait? What?! The Stumblor Whirlpool Light? Visting website now...
Quoted from Digduglus:Titan sent me two of the flower pot rubbers. I know about this one, is there another somewhere on the machine? Or is it just extra
[quoted image]
Quoted from Digduglus:Titan sent me two of the flower pot rubbers. I know about this one, is there another somewhere on the machine? Or is it just extra
[quoted image]
Only one pot. You are missing the white plastic spacer above the pot.
Quoted from drummermike:Only one pot. You are missing the white plastic spacer above the pot.
The link below shows the spacer and pot installed on my Creech.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cftbl-fans-and-members-welcome/page/30#post-3874518
Gord
Quoted from Digduglus:In the final stages of putting creech back together. Can't figure out where this piece went. Any help is appreciated
[quoted image]
Looks like it belongs to holding the “tunnel” for the hologram lamp
image (resized).jpgHi.
During a game I noticed the popper of the ramps were not working.
After entering the test mode it was clear the problem were the optos and after checking them I understood the optos were not functioning and the opto board too.
So I changed the board and before playing a game, I entered the test mode. Optos were functioning again (switch edges test).
Out of test mode, I played a game. After about one minute play, top right popper (solenoid 01) started activating itself alone and after 8-10 activation both optos were dead again, so the board ( 30 € into the garbage can after only 1 minute).
Could it be I need to change the optos (and the board again ) ?
THX
Quoted from Marco1973:Hi.
During a game I noticed the popper of the ramps were not working.
After entering the test mode it was clear the problem were the optos and after checking them I understood the optos were not functioning and the opto board too.
So I changed the board and before playing a game, I entered the test mode. Optos were functioning again (switch edges test).
Out of test mode, I played a game. After about one minute play, top right popper (solenoid 01) started activating itself alone and after 8-10 activation both optos were dead again, so the board ( 30 € into the garbage can after only 1 minute).
Could it be I need to change the optos (and the board again ) ?
THX
Im sure you have to but what you have to do first is searching for the problem. If you only replace it it will be defect again after a minute. Check the cabels and the shematics maybe there is a short causing the board and the optos to burn them self.
Im no electrican but that would be my steps befor even replacing something.
Lucxor I will change the optos
gunstarhero Yes I have a color DMD installed. Are you a magician knowing it ? TP3 shows 11,98 v. I installed one more bulb connected to the GI and the cadillac mod, always connected to the illumination.
Am I dreaming?
I was sure there was a way to make the blue snack at item lights change order by using the flippers, same as the P-A-I-D rollovers.
I’ve searched through the adjustments menu but can’t find it.
Does it even exist?
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:Am I dreaming?
I was sure there was a way to make the blue snack at item lights change order by using the flippers, same as the P-A-I-D rollovers.
I’ve searched through the adjustments menu but can’t find it.
Does it even exist?
You’re dreaming I think because I’ve never seen it, but you can set it to change or not on bumper hits
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:Am I dreaming?
I was sure there was a way to make the blue snack at item lights change order by using the flippers, same as the P-A-I-D rollovers.
I’ve searched through the adjustments menu but can’t find it.
Does it even exist?
Do you mean the 4 standup targets? They cycle automatically every time the pop bumpers fire.
Quoted from Marco1973:Lucxor I will change the optos
gunstarhero Yes I have a color DMD installed. Are you a magician knowing it ? TP3 shows 11,98 v. I installed one more bulb connected to the GI and the cadillac mod, always connected to the illumination.
I had the same issue on my STTNG… the 12V was marginal and the CDMD was just a little too much stress and that caused opto issues. In my case it was the cap and regulator. My buddy replaced them and all was well.
At risk of sounding like an idiot,
Can somebody explain what a sound Rom is and how it differs from the CPU rom?
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:At risk of sounding like an idiot,
Can somebody explain what a sound Rom is and how it differs from the CPU rom?
The CPU and Sound boards in a WPC game both have their "Program" stored in ROM chips. The CPU board has a single ROM chip that you change out to upgrade, Sound boards have multiple ROM chips that must be upgraded when a sound board upgrade is necessary. Open up your backbox and check it out.
Sound ROMs typically don't get upgraded -They have less updates in general and you don't always have to update them. You MAY need to update them though so it's always advisable to check what Sound ROM version is required for any CPU upgrade you perform.
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:Is L-5 the latest ROM?
Yes - you can buy it locally from Mr Pinball or RTBB
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:At risk of sounding like an idiot,
Can somebody explain what a sound Rom is and how it differs from the CPU rom?
In addition to what bakerhillpins posted, the game ROM holds not only the rules of the game which includes all the lighting effects and which audio and display clips to use and when, it also contains the actual display images/animations for the DMD (as these do not take up a lot of space). On the other hand the audio clips take more room and so they come on separate ROM chips, which are inserted directly onto the audio board - when the game needs to play an audio clip (whether that be music or a call-out) it sends the instruction along with the audio clip’s ROM address over the ribbon cable to the audio board. By comparison, as mentioned above the DMD images are on the game ROM however these are transferred over to the DMD controller board via a the direct ribbon cable from CPU board, when the game first boots up. After which images are displayed directly from the DMD Controller board, with the CPU board simply sending it instructions and addresses (similar to what it sends the audio board) via the daisy chained ribbon cable.
Ah, that makes sense. Thank you.
I just ordered revision 5 from Mr. Pinball.
His website is a bit tricky to navigate, though.
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:Ah, that makes sense. Thank you.
I just ordered revision 5 from Mr. Pinball.
His website is a bit tricky to navigate, though.
Good work
v5.0 is the way to go
Quoted from Gorgar1:Still haven’t put my L-5 chip in bloody scared I’ll damage something.
So you need some cheering support?
Go Gorgar1, Go !!! You can do it!
Quoted from Thor-NL:So you need some cheering support?
Go Gorgar1, Go !!! You can do it!
New ROM done just took my time so happy. First thing I noticed no ghosting LEDs.
Quoted from Gorgar1:New ROM done just took my time so happy. First thing I noticed no ghosting LEDs.
Nice work mate
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cftbl-fans-and-members-welcome/page/93 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.