(Topic ID: 79267)

CFTBL- Fans and members welcome!!!

By vilant

10 years ago


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  • 5,671 posts
  • 508 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by JBtheAVguy
  • Topic is favorited by 271 Pinsiders

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There are 5,671 posts in this topic. You are on page 94 of 114.
#4651 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Nice work mate

When i light Big Millions and shoot the ramp and enter the left in lane how and when does it award the 10 20 or 30 million ? Also combo on right hand in lane is that now active?

Cheers.

#4652 1 year ago
Quoted from Gorgar1:

New ROM done just took my time so happy. First thing I noticed no ghosting LEDs.

Same here. It really improved the playfield LED performance. Before this update I was getting ready to purchase an OCD LED board. Instead, I was able to buy a OCD GI one. Excellent work by soren

#4653 1 year ago

This rom does not work with the Mike D mod, correct?

#4654 1 year ago

I’m having a big problem! When you have taken all the letters in FILM, "Start Movie flashers" (far right and far left) should start to light up and then you should lock the ball in one of them to start the Multiball. But since a dews days back this only works sometimes, several times we have taken FILM but the lights never started flashing and even if we locked the ball Multiball didn't start! But sometimes it workes as it should.
Tonight when I played it didn’t work a single time having completed FILM maybe 15 times.
It’s like the “signal” that FILM is completed doesn’t get to the CPU board?

I have no clue were to start looking, does anybody have an idea what the problem is?

#4655 1 year ago
Quoted from fschlau:

I’m having a big problem! When you have taken all the letters in FILM, "Start Movie flashers" (far right and far left) should start to light up and then you should lock the ball in one of them to start the Multiball. But since a dews days back this only works sometimes, several times we have taken FILM but the lights never started flashing and even if we locked the ball Multiball didn't start! But sometimes it workes as it should.
Tonight when I played it didn’t work a single time having completed FILM maybe 15 times.
It’s like the “signal” that FILM is completed doesn’t get to the CPU board?
I have no clue were to start looking, does anybody have an idea what the problem is?

I had the same problem. Turns out one of the switches in the trough was acting up so the game thought it didn't have enough balls to start multi ball (so the game wouldn't start the 'start movie flashers' once FILM was complete).
Go into switch edges and make sure your trough switches are all registering.

#4656 1 year ago

This happened to me ONCE a couple weeks ago…

I thought I was going crazy

#4657 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I used the standard sockets with LEDs and hooked them up to the rear flasher. They light when the ball is hitting the pops.
Better than just having them on with GI.
I also added lights under the outlane plastics.

So, if I want my pop bumpers to flash when they’re hit, do I wire an L.E.D. Into the coil?

#4658 1 year ago
Quoted from gac:

This rom does not work with the Mike D mod, correct?

It does not

#4659 1 year ago

I have the Australian LCD mod in mine and it works fine with the version 5 rom just lucky I suppose.

#4660 1 year ago
Quoted from in2kiss:

I had the same problem. Turns out one of the switches in the trough was acting up so the game thought it didn't have enough balls to start multi ball (so the game wouldn't start the 'start movie flashers' once FILM was complete).
Go into switch edges and make sure your trough switches are all registering.

I will check this out tonight, hopefully it´s one of the switches

#4661 1 year ago

Excuse my language, but how the h*ll do i take away the apron, some screws are hidden so i cant reach them with any tool? Or am i missing something here?

#4662 1 year ago
Quoted from fschlau:

Excuse my language, but how the h*ll do i take away the apron, some screws are hidden so i cant reach them with any tool? Or am i missing something here?

I believe the apron is held on by the two screws in the very front, then the whole apron slides back (push the apron away from you) and it will unhook from the playfield.

#4663 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I believe the apron is held on by the two screws in the very front, then the whole apron slides back (push the apron away from you) and it will unhook from the playfield.

correct. remove the screws at the edge of the playfield / apron just above where the 2 metal brackets seat into the lock down bar. once you've removed them, you can carefully push/slide the apron forward towards the top of the playfield about 1/2" and then lift it upwards off of the playfield.

#4664 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

correct. remove the screws at the edge of the playfield / apron just above where the 2 metal brackets seat into the lock down bar. once you've removed them, you can carefully push/slide the apron forward towards the top of the playfield about 1/2" and then lift it upwards off of the playfield.

Thanks, came off pretty easy when i knew how to

#4665 1 year ago
Quoted from in2kiss:

I had the same problem. Turns out one of the switches in the trough was acting up so the game thought it didn't have enough balls to start multi ball (so the game wouldn't start the 'start movie flashers' once FILM was complete).
Go into switch edges and make sure your trough switches are all registering.

The switches seem to be OK, but i think that the problem maybe is the springs on the lane ball shooter, and mayby the coil. It seems like the balls sometimes get "stuck" on the eject cam, that the cam doesen´t withdraws fast enough. New coils (this one and the one at the outhole) and new springs orderd, they have taken some beating over the years i think.

#4666 1 year ago

In my Creature the Mike D. Mod works fine with the new ROM no issues

#4667 1 year ago
Quoted from tomypin:

In my Creature the Mike D. Mod works fine with the new ROM no issues

Same here, the L5 ROM works great. I have the V2.0 of the Mike D. mod, not sure if that makes a difference.

#4668 1 year ago

I just cracked a billion points!!!

Been trying to do that for almost 10 years.

Not a bad way to start a Monday.

#4669 1 year ago
Quoted from That_Pin_Dude:

Same here, the L5 ROM works great. I have the V2.0 of the Mike D. mod, not sure if that makes a difference.

I’m not sure which version I have of the Mike D. mod. Is there a way to tell?

#4670 1 year ago
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:

I just cracked a billion points!!!
Been trying to do that for almost 10 years.
Not a bad way to start a Monday.

Congrats!!

#4671 1 year ago
Quoted from gac:

I’m not sure which version I have of the Mike D. mod. Is there a way to tell?

My PI model is a Pi 1 Model B+ V1.2. I believe V1 of the mod used Pi 1 Model B (not B+). Google for pics on how these two first generation models look.

Again, I don't know if this makes any difference.

#4672 1 year ago
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:

So, if I want my pop bumpers to flash when they’re hit, do I wire an L.E.D. Into the coil?

No. Just solder the two wires from the new lights that are in the pops to any of the flashers that light when the pops are hit. I used the rear left flasher.

#4673 1 year ago

Is there a way to make each individual bumper flash when it’s hit, rather than all three flashing together?

#4674 1 year ago
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:

Is there a way to make each individual bumper flash when it’s hit, rather than all three flashing together?

I do not know how but I am sure someone on Pinside does. That would be great.

#4675 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I do not know how but I am sure someone on Pinside does. That would be great.

These are what you guys are talking about:
https://www.pinballlife.com/britecaps-evo-pop-bumper-lighting.html

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
#4676 1 year ago

This website says it adds about 5mm to the height of the bumper.
Is there enough room under the ramp far that extra clearance in a creech?

#4677 1 year ago

You’d have to check. I have used them in other machines but not my own CFTBL.

#4678 1 year ago
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:

This website says it adds about 5mm to the height of the bumper.
Is there enough room under the ramp far that extra clearance in a creech?

stumblor might know. He has a similar product that I think is far superior to the EVO's.

#4679 1 year ago
Quoted from Fifty:

stumblor might know. He has a similar product that I think is far superior to the EVO's.

I've never used those britecaps, but looks as though the additional height comes in due to the LED PCB being all one unit, rather than a ring. It's a bit of a tradeoff really - circle PCBs like this one mean you don't have to add a bracket underneath for support, however the edge of the PCB will be visible from the side, and they will add height to the pop cap (why 5mm I'm not sure, PCBs are 1.6mm and the LEDs would fit within the cap itself). When using a ring, I have to add in an acrylic bracket underneath for support, which is a bit of an assembly hassle since they need to be glued in, so you can see why manufacturers would want to avoid it.

What we need is some clever person to design a pop cap with built in support, that doesn't need to be glued.

#4680 1 year ago

Wow. Those are great! The ramps sit on the pop caps but they may work.

#4681 1 year ago

I would love a winter project. Please sell me your worn out creech. I would love to make it like new. Willing to do trades. Just drop me a pm.

Scoot.

#4682 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

No. Just solder the two wires from the new lights that are in the pops to any of the flashers that light when the pops are hit. I used the rear left flasher.

My rear left flasher doesn’t flash with the pop bumpers…

Hmmm… maybe mine is broken?

#4683 1 year ago

Actually, I can even see one???

Can somebody post a photo?

#4684 1 year ago

There are two rear flashers. One in each corner. You can see a very small part of the circle in the right rear corner. it is right under the upside down numbers on the plastic.

20220923_073656 (resized).jpg20220923_073656 (resized).jpg
#4685 1 year ago

Start with the obvious, replace the bulb.

#4686 1 year ago
Quoted from in2kiss:

I had the same problem. Turns out one of the switches in the trough was acting up so the game thought it didn't have enough balls to start multi ball (so the game wouldn't start the 'start movie flashers' once FILM was complete).
Go into switch edges and make sure your trough switches are all registering.

My problem is solved!

I disassembled both the eject cam and the spring plate, in the holes that these parts are attached to the mounting bracket (with a pin) there was black sticky old lubrication, no wonder it worked badly.....
Cleaned everything with degreasing fluid and then put some "multi grease" i had at home in the holes and on the pin and now it works like it was new!!

#4687 1 year ago

hello.
in a few days I expect my creature.

I wanted to ask, this one has too many ramps and differences in the field. how will I understand with which series to remove them to clean it? is there a video guide that shows?

#4688 1 year ago

google translate isn't working too well for you but I believe that you're looking for a shop video to show you how in which order you need to remove the ramps to shop the game.

try this one:

#4689 1 year ago

That video didn’t show any ramp removal.

It did show that you can fit the pop bumper lights in under the ramps though!

#4690 1 year ago

I found this txt file for a shop out guide. good documentation of the order that things need to be done.

Creature From The Black Lagoon (CFTBL) Shop Out Guide
There are pictures online at [http://www.theteardown.com] www.theteardown.com

1.1 parts to have on hand

- bulbs
- twenty or so #44 or #47
- a box of #86 for the ramp lights

- if you want to put lights in your jet bumpers, get 3 light sockets. there are lots of ways to do this. you can tie them to the GI circuit so they are on all the time,
you can tie them to the lightning bolts so they work just like the test menu - separate lights for left, right and center, or you can make them flash when the jet
bumpers are activated. Google rec.games.pinball for more information
- rubber ring kit - see chart at end
- replacements for anything that is obviously broken and probably a cliffy protector for the snack bar hole

1.2 start

1. remove the 3 pinballs

2. raise the playfield and disconnect all harness connections leading to the ramps (basically any wire bundle running to the topside of the playfield). make sure that
all of the [disconnected] wire harnesses can pass through the holes unencumbered

note: when disconnecting each harness connection, label both ends of the connectors to eliminate any guess work as to which connectors pair back up when it’s time
for reassembly. use a sharpie permanent marker (or id-tag zip ties) and label both ends of the connector with the same letter/number/symbol

3. remove the straight wire form leading from the bowl to the circular (curly) ramp
- 5/8" phillips sems screw with washers on top and bottom and sems nut on bottom

4. remove the “snack bar” sign
- nylock nut

5. remove the circular (curly) ramp with film strip credits stickers on it
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with washers top and bottom on hex post by snack bar hole
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with washers on top on hex post of left side of wire form
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with washers top and bottom on hex post at rear

6. remove the "big millions" sign
- nylock nut

7. remove the right ramp
- (2) 1/4" screws shoulder washer on entrance
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with thick washer on top on slingshot hex post

8. remove the wire form at "start movie" [right side]
- 3/8" hex head machine screw with washer at rear
- 1-1/2" wood screw with washer at bottom in rail

9. remove the bowl
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with thick washer on top and two smaller 3/8" washers under plastic tab on hex post by right flipper
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with smaller washer on top and thick washer under plastic tab on top of the hex post on shooter rail
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with thick washer on top of bracket

10. remove the apron [and the wires underneath]
- 1-1/4" white posts with 1-3/4" wood screws holding wire holders on shooter frame

11. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-13) on left side of shooter lane

12. remove the VUK wire [above the right slingshot]
- 1/2" phillips sems screw with washer on top and under hex post on slingshot
- 5/8" phillips sems screw with washer on playfield

13. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-20) [right of] the left ramp entrance
- disconnect and remove the wire for the “big millions” sign

14. remove the “snack bar” plastic (part no. 31-1698-3)
- 1/2" machine screw with washer on post with rubber sleeve and clear plastic protector under plastic at post

15. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-7) [left of] the "move your car" lane
- remove the wire harness for the ramp lights (mark the harness, since it is unique)

16. remove the “unlimited millions” sign (part no. 31-1698-9) in left corner

17. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-10) under the “unlimited millions” sign

18. remove the right side of the steel ramp in the left corner
- 2 hex head screws

19. remove the 5-5/8" overall length hex post with washer on playfield next to left ramp arm

20. remove the rod that raises the ramp flap - use pliers to hold the screw

21. raise the playfield and remove the left ramp assembly in the left bottom corner

22. remove the left ramp
- 3/8" screw with shoulder washer with washers on top and bottom of ramp on next post on shooter rail
- 2 wood screws in ramp flap
- phillips sems screw with washer on top and bottom on post to left of left jet bumper

raise the ramp flap and slide the plastic ramp to the right and remove

23. loosen the plastic (part no. 31-1698-1) in left corner
- self tapping phillips screw with washer into (wooden/metal) playfield rail

NOTE: you may not be able to completely remove the plastic because of the steel ramp, but you need to get under it to remove the steel ramp

24. remove the left side of steel ramp with ramp flap
- 3 hex head wood screws

25. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-1) in corner that you just loosened
- remove “unlimited millions” sign wire harness

26. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-18) [right side of] the “move your car” lane
- remove “super jackpot” sign wire harness

27. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-15) in upper right corner

28. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-4) above the left out lane

29. remove the plastic (part no. 31-1698-5) above the right out lane

30. remove the left and right sling shot plastics (part no.s 31-1698-4 & 31-1698-5)
- 1-1/2" FF hex post with washer on top of plastic on top of the slings

31. remove the bottom lane guides

32. remove the jet bumper caps

33. remove the under playfield troughs
- the left metal trough has wood screws underneath holding the ball guide and shorter hex head screws

34. remove the orange star posts
- all 6 of the slings posts are singles
- 4 singles above the left and right out lanes

note: the 2 interior posts are 6-32 with 1/4" tops rather than 3/16"

- 2 double posts [behind and to the right of] "snack bar" hole with 2 rings
- 2 single posts [to the right of] the "extra ball" insert, bottom has phillips screw
- 2 double posts [to the left of] the jet bumpers with phillips screws
- 2 double posts [to the left of] the "start movie" hole - bottom has hex head wood screw
- 3 double posts [to the right of] jets have phillips head screws
- 3 single posts [left of] the top lane guides with phillips head screws on bottom 2
- 4 single posts [right of] the of top lane guides, bottom 2 phillips screws

35. remove the 3 top orange lane dividers
- all have phillips screws
- these wood screws are slightly longer than the rest of the wood screws

36. remove the orange tube on right side rail by the "L" in "starlight"

37. remove the 4 ball gates including one with the switch on the “move your car” lane
- 1/4" shoulder washer screw in upper left ball gate on rubber sleeved post
- all gates have washers on top of white posts under frames
- upper right side gate has washer on top of frame on the star post
- lower left ball gate has cut edges that line up with side rail

38. remove the 15 white nylon posts
- all but 2 have wood screw posts
- the post on left between movie and video insert has a 6-32 w- 1/4" top metal screw
- the post in the upper left corner [to the right of corner white post] has a phillips screw

39. remove hex posts - washers on top of playfield under posts
- 5-1/4" overall height (M-F) by the left foot of the frogman below the bottom jet
- 4-3/16" overall height (M-F) to left of the red car in the "move your car" lane
- 4-3/16" overall height (M-F) northwest of the left jet
- 1-1/8" overall height (F-F) on shooter rail [at bottom]
- 2" overall height (F-F) on shooter rail [at top]

40. remove the metal tubes (1-15/16" overall height) used as adjustable posts
- large 5/8" washer under tubes
- sems nut under playfield

41. remove the 3 metal posts by the "S" in "starlight"
- have washers on playfield under posts

42. shooter gauge has self shoulder wood screws

43. remove the 8 metal posts with black sleeves and nuts under playfield

44. remove the ramp holder on left side rail

45. remove the bowl brackets on right side rail

46. raise the playfield and remove the shroud around creature window
- shorter gold colored hex head screws

47. remove the creature window
- nylock nuts with washers under nylocks

48. remove hardware on back board

NOTE: there are 20 #44 bulbs and 8 #89 bulbs on the playfield

1.3 ring chart
the machine shipped with [White] rings and [red] flipper rings

Creature From The Black Lagoon Rubber Ring List

rings
inside diameter qty
5/16" 2
3/4" 3
1" 4
1-1/4" 1
1-1/2" 4
2" 2
2-1/2" 2

flipper rings
inside diameter qty
std 1-1/2" [red] 2

other qty
rubber sleeve (black) 9
shooter tip 1
3/4" tapered bumper 1
ring bumper (23-6535) 6
white rubber ring (23-6641-1) 8

total per game: 43

Changes from manual - added 2 black sleeves for adjustable post bumpers

End of guide

#4691 1 year ago

Google translate THAT!

#4692 1 year ago
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:

This website says it adds about 5mm to the height of the bumper.
Is there enough room under the ramp far that extra clearance in a creech?

I put those in mine and they are very tight. Do they work, yes. But they are flexing the ramp above the one that has the least clearance as the ramp sits tightly on top of the pop. It stresses the ramps mounting tabs but so far has worked. YMMV. I actually bought a set of the lower profile versions but have not installed yet. Also note that the britecaps version are jarringly bright when first installed into an area that was basically dark.

0ABF82E7-D504-41D7-8E4A-18D96EA5E0D4 (resized).jpeg0ABF82E7-D504-41D7-8E4A-18D96EA5E0D4 (resized).jpeg
#4693 1 year ago

That looks amazing!!!! I wonder if there is anyway to diffuse the light a bit?

#4694 1 year ago

They are dimmable by an adjustment on the board itself. Have these style of LEDs on all my machine's and really like the look.

#4695 1 year ago

Imagine how cool they would look with U.V. Light (black light)

#4696 1 year ago

have a few stock Snackbar Mods v7's

6FB38B7C-4CF2-43CC-A1AA-702115BB9393_1_105_c (resized).jpeg6FB38B7C-4CF2-43CC-A1AA-702115BB9393_1_105_c (resized).jpeg91A937AD-AFD7-45F1-AEA1-E60E1C43BE02_1_105_c (resized).jpeg91A937AD-AFD7-45F1-AEA1-E60E1C43BE02_1_105_c (resized).jpeg
#4697 1 year ago

How much including postage to Australia?

#4698 1 year ago
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:

How much including postage to Australia?

He's in Australia, so you've lucked out. Best mod in pinball.

#4699 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:have a few stock Snackbar Mods v7's
[quoted image][quoted image]

Love mine!

D48D2CF8-051F-4D6B-B03D-E22F869FA057 (resized).jpegD48D2CF8-051F-4D6B-B03D-E22F869FA057 (resized).jpeg

#4700 1 year ago
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:

How much including postage to Australia?

yes, I am in the Newcastle area just north of Sydney - where are you?

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