(Topic ID: 79267)

CFTBL- Fans and members welcome!!!

By vilant

7 years ago


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There are 3922 posts in this topic. You are on page 75 of 79.
#3701 3 months ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Yes. They were probably flashing whenever the flippers were being pressed. I recently changed mine to LED and that what mine is doing. I can either change them back to incandescents or add a diode onto the each LED flasher.
Looks like you have a white 3D printed bracket in your backbox as well. I've been thinking of doing that as well.
The lamp covers (silicon caps) on your signs are incorrect. Not that it really matters. The lights should go
WHITE (top)
GREEN
YELLOW
on the two outer signs.
WHITE (top)
RED
GREEN
YELLOW
I may get people disagreeing with me on this, but as soon as you start a multiball you will realise this is the proper colour order.

Can you explain the colour order reasons?

#3702 3 months ago
Quoted from crazypinballguy:

Just joined the club today.
[quoted image]

Nice looking Stars you have there too!

#3703 3 months ago
Quoted from Deleenhe:

Thanks fifty , I will line those up (I did wonder what those holes were for on my Diner!). Here's some more shots. The cabinet is new with vinyl graphics vs paint but looks amazing. It has the Mike D hologram mod but I have taken it out, it is not getting power and the flippers are not working so I think there is a broader electrical problem to figure out. I'm sure I will have some questions on that. Another question (one of many), the black sockets in the backbox are mostly empty, not sure why, are these different than the white ones? Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The PinballMikeD holo mod and The Snackbar Mod v1 both use 12vdc and both of these bring the machine close to it's limits otherwise will pop a fuse.

Was the el wire still working on the Snackbar Mod? The small el wire inverter may also be at the end of it's life. I changed the Snackbar Mod to GI powered edge lit light blades from the v2 and onwards so not as power hungry if coupled with PinballMikeD's mod and a ColorDMD.

Also by the way, very nice looking game.

#3704 3 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

The PinballMikeD holo mod and The Snackbar Mod v1 both use 12vdc and both of these bring the machine close to it's limits otherwise will pop a fuse.
Was the el wire still working on the Snackbar Mod? The small el wire inverter may also be at the end of it's life. I changed the Snackbar Mod to GI powered edge lit light blades from the v2 and onwards so not as power hungry if coupled with PinballMikeD's mod and a ColorDMD.
Also by the way, very nice looking game.

Hi, if you mean edge lighting, no, it was not working. The red light on top was working but not the lighting around the edge. I haven't tried to look at that yet or even if it is connected properly (theres a bundle of wires and a little box all zip-tied together). I will disconnect it for now until I get further. I have another thread on the go to help diagnose the problem (no success yet...) https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-flippers-but-work-in-test-menuwpc#post-6135882

#3705 3 months ago
Quoted from Deleenhe:

Hi, if you mean edge lighting, no, it was not working. The red light on top was working but not the lighting around the edge. I haven't tried to look at that yet or even if it is connected properly (theres a bundle of wires and a little box all zip-tied together). I will disconnect it for now until I get further. I have another thread on the go to help diagnose the problem (no success yet...) https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-flippers-but-work-in-test-menuwpc#post-6135882

The inverter is probably blown or it's life has ended. I had the v1 Snackbar mod and remember the instructions vividly about being careful with the inverter otherwise you'll fry it. The red light on top is just powered by the GI socket so if you have GI then it should still be working.

Does anyone know what version of car mod is on Deleenhe pin? I like this one.

#3706 3 months ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Can you explain the colour order reasons?

Sure.

The silicon caps are colour matched to each other. For example, when you get multiball, both MOVIE MADNESS and CREATURE FEATURE will light up at the same time. I am pretty sure RESCUE does as well (my memory is foggy). These all have green silicon caps. This is the most obvious one as it was designed into the lighting effects. The lighting on the pin will all go out at first except for these lamps. You'll just see the green lamps flashing to give the pin that creepy monster feeling as multiball is about to start.

BIG MILLIONS and UNLIMITED MILLIONS will also both light up at the same time when you have the ramp scoring feature going. Both of these have white silicon caps and flash during the mode along with the two ramp flashers underneath each ramp. SUPER JACKPOT is also white. It's at the top of the sign and matches up with the BIG MILLIONS and UNLIMITED MILLIONS.

EXTRA BALL, MULTIBALL RESTART, CREATURE FEATURE are all yellow. These are the modes that are lit most of the time. CREATURE FEATURE barely stops flashing the entire time you play the game.

JACKPOT is RED. This one makes the least sense as it's the one with the starkest contrast on the pin. However it's the one that most Creature owners seem to be in agreement on. The colour is red. My only logic for this one is because JACKPOT is in red font on the snackbar sign, the dome on the snackbar is red. It just makes the most sense as the colour choice.

Often you'll see a blue silicon cap on the SUPER JACKPOT. The blue silicon is even mentioned in the manual. However, to me it doesn't make sense to have blue as it's the least eye catching colour for such an important shot. This is the one sign lamp that is debated the most often. To me, it makes the most sense to be white as it matches the lamps on the other two signs, it is the brightest for such an important shot, it's shown on the official flyer as being white, and the photo evidence on the internet confirms it.

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=588&picno=4162&zoom=1

The only other sequence of silicon caps that makes sense to me is this one (below). Where the silicon caps are the same on all the signs, except red replaces the white caps but even this one shows the SUPER JACKPOT as white with blue no where to be seen.

Prototype
https://www.ipdb.org/images/588/image-25.jpg

Hey, but to each their own...

Here's an older thread on it, but it just adds confusion. The last pic is definitely wrong though. You would see a green and red lamp during multiball start and that would just ruin the esthetics completely.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cftbl-condom-help

#3707 3 months ago
Quoted from Deleenhe:

Hi, if you mean edge lighting, no, it was not working. The red light on top was working but not the lighting around the edge. I haven't tried to look at that yet or even if it is connected properly (theres a bundle of wires and a little box all zip-tied together). I will disconnect it for now until I get further. I have another thread on the go to help diagnose the problem (no success yet...) https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-flippers-but-work-in-test-menuwpc#post-6135882

Snackbar v1 has el-wire in it which has an inverter to power the el wire. If the machine is at all powered up without the elwire plugged in the inverter will fry. You can find the manual here of how to install and a few problem solver tips and what to buy to replace the el wire with etc.
https://swinks.com.au/manuals

There is also a fuse in the power lead for the inverter so worthwhile checking that as well.

The flasher dome is powered by the feature light

#3708 3 months ago

Dam that means most of my silicon covers are wrong LOL I estimate my machine was restored about 8 or 9 years ago I’m the 3rd owner since restore and it still looks awesome love this game. Just an excuse to show off my game LOL lol
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#3709 3 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar1:

Dam that means most of my silicon covers are wrong LOL I estimate my machine was restored about 8 or 9 years ago I’m the 3rd owner since restore and it still looks awesome love this game. Just an excuse to show off my game LOL lol
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'm going to have to check mine now ... here's the flyer as a reference

CFTBL PF sign colours (resized).JPG
#3710 3 months ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Can you explain the colour order reasons?

the silicone covers over the bulbs in my game match the cover of the flyer (and as Fifty specified)

#3711 3 months ago

Ha ha! Sorry guys! Purple eh? That's a new colour I've never seen on the signs before!

I prefer using the actual silicon caps over colour matched LEDs. I like seeing the colours even when the pin is off. For yellow, I use Comet warm whites underneath. My Creech is using warm white LEDs for the GI as well as I prefer the retro look on this machine.

Replaced the plastic Devilsmuse provided for me. The only problem is that it looks a shit ton better than the plastics on my pin! Check out the colour difference. I'll let you guess which is mine and which is the one he provided me.

1 (resized).jpg

Installed...

2 (resized).jpg

Thanks again Devilsmuse!

#3712 3 months ago

No problem Fifty. I had that set stored in a flat file ever since I purchased them 20 plus years ago and they haven't seen the light of day since.

#3713 3 months ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Ha ha! Sorry guys! Purple eh? That's a new colour I've never seen on the signs before!
I prefer using the actual silicon caps over colour matched LEDs. I like seeing the colours even when the pin is off.

Who says you can't have LEDs and see the colors when the pin is off?! I followed the prototype colors you referenced above.

IMG_3431 (resized).jpg
#3714 3 months ago
Quoted from gac:

Who says you can't have LEDs and see the colors when the pin is off?! I followed the prototype colors you referenced above.
[quoted image]

I haven't LED'd mine yet - who makes these?

#3715 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I haven't LED'd mine yet - who makes these?

I got them from Pinball Center in Germany. I really don't care for the white domes (or worse yet, clear or no domes) on LEDs that can be seen on a playfield.

#3716 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I'm going to have to check mine now ... here's the flyer as a reference[quoted image]

Pretty close to the flyer - looks like I just need to swap the extra ball and the Unlimited Millions

CFTBL PF (resized).jpg
#3717 3 months ago
Quoted from gac:

Who says you can't have LEDs and see the colors when the pin is off?! I followed the prototype colors you referenced above.
[quoted image]

I’ve never seen that sign (see red arrow) in photo and now I want one LOL where’d you get it please?
006A6D56-48C2-410A-9463-E2A1956208BD (resized).jpeg

#3718 3 months ago

So just to be clear are most of you guys using normal bulbs then using the coloured silicon covers? Mine are all coloured LEDS’s

#3719 3 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar1:

I’ve never seen that sign (see red arrow) in photo and now I want one LOL where’d you get it please?
[quoted image]

I got it at a pinball show several years ago from someone selling Creech mods. I don't believe it was a regular mod vendor. Here are a couple still pics of the sign lit up. My lousy phone camera washes out the words on the white part of the sign. I'll try to do some research on it's origins and report back.

IMG_3432 (resized).jpgIMG_3434 (resized).jpg
#3720 3 months ago

The sign can be found on-line at modeltrainstuff.com and midwestmodelrr.com. There are other sites that have it as well. It would have to be modified to connect to the pin.

#3721 3 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar1:

So just to be clear are most of you guys using normal bulbs then using the coloured silicon covers? Mine are all coloured LEDS’s

Yes, this is what I do. Comet 2SMD frosted dome bulbs. Silicon caps from PBR. The caps are longer than the bulb heads so i just trimmed the caps a bit and they fit perfectly.

#3722 3 months ago

Thanks I’ll see if there’s any of those signs in Australia

#3723 3 months ago
Quoted from gac:

I got it at a pinball show several years ago from someone selling Creech mods. I don't believe it was a regular mod vendor. Here are a couple still pics of the sign lit up. My lousy phone camera washes out the words on the white part of the sign. I'll try to do some research on it's origins and report back.
[quoted image][quoted image]

That is a pretty nice sign. Neat that you can customize it too. They have some great signs that are giving me all sorts of ideas. You could customize any of these. Plus their die-cast cars are cheap! How big is HO scale?

Screen Shot 2021-02-16 at 9.23.43 PM (resized).png

Screen Shot 2021-02-16 at 9.24.11 PM (resized).png

#3724 3 months ago
Quoted from Fifty:

That is a pretty nice sign. Neat that you can customize it too. They have some great signs that are giving me all sorts of ideas. You could customize any of these. Plus their die-cast cars are cheap! How big is HO scale?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

A matchbox or Hot Wheels car is basically HO scale.

#3725 3 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar1:

Thanks I’ll see if there’s any of those signs in Australia

From my quick scan earlier I could find any, so I ordered from the US. There are no details regarding the animation or how it's driven, although I did find one ad saying that it needs 3 x AAA batteries (so assume 4.5v DC) - I wonder if the 5Vreg on Creech would be ok??

#3726 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

From my quick scan earlier I could find any, so I ordered from the US

Make sure to report back after you receive it.

#3727 3 months ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Make sure to report back after you receive it.

Will do although it might be awhile depending upon the shipping from US to Australia .....

#3728 3 months ago

And it's back

My dreaded "damn ball won't exit the Slide VUK" issue

Here's a video:

I've cleaned up the sleeve, replaced the coil, checked all mechanics, and this issue appears once in a while. Sometimes it works fine for a few days, then fails on one launch, sometimes it fails consistently (as in the linked video, I had to remove the glass to catch the ball).

I'm starting to think the control circuitry is at fault. Checking on the schematics there is a control transistor, has anyone experienced a failure on a control transistor of that nature ?

#3729 3 months ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

And it's back
My dreaded "damn ball won't exit the Slide VUK" issue
Here's a video:
I've cleaned up the sleeve, replaced the coil, checked all mechanics, and this issue appears once in a while. Sometimes it works fine for a few days, then fails on one launch, sometimes it fails consistently (as in the linked video, I had to remove the glass to catch the ball).
I'm starting to think the control circuitry is at fault. Checking on the schematics there is a control transistor, has anyone experienced a failure on a control transistor of that nature ?

What's the condition of the coil stop and coil stop end of the plunger? Is the any mushrooming - post some pics of them. I'm thinking a mechanical issue and would check/replace the coil sleeve (they are cheap) and potentially the coil stop and plunger. Just as an FYI to save you some $$ in the future, coils don't wear out and only need to be replaced if the coil wire breaks or the coil gets burnt out (this happens when a drive transistor fails).

#3730 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

What's the condition of the coil stop and coil stop end of the plunger? Is the any mushrooming - post some pics of them. I'm thinking a mechanical issue and would check/replace the coil sleeve (they are cheap) and potentially the coil stop and plunger. Just as an FYI to save you some $$ in the future, coils don't wear out and only need to be replaced if the coil wire breaks or the coil gets burnt out (this happens when a drive transistor fails).

I'll post pictures, but I did check the coil stop and also changed the sleeve (actually that was the first thing I did before even replacing the coil).
Can you define "mushrooming", not sure I've seen this term before

Thanks

#3731 3 months ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

I'll post pictures, but I did check the coil stop and also changed the sleeve (actually that was the first thing I did before even replacing the coil).
Can you define "mushrooming", not sure I've seen this term before
Thanks

The plunger tip can become deformed from striking the coil stop, this is referred to as mushrooming and the plunger can drag or stick in the coil sleeve causing reduced power such as you're seeing. Some people will file off the burs on the plunger or you can replace it. If the plunger is damaged, I'd be replacing the coil sleeve as this won't be smooth anymore and the coil stop.

It may or may not be the issue but definitely worth checking

#3732 3 months ago
Quoted from gac:

The sign can be found on-line at modeltrainstuff.com and midwestmodelrr.com. There are other sites that have it as well. It would have to be modified to connect to the pin.

Those signs are all or mostly made by Miller Engineering so if you dont see them you can go to his site. His shop is fairly close to me so if they will not ship internationaly I may be able to help with that.

#3733 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

The plunger tip can become deformed from striking the coil stop, this is referred to as mushrooming and the plunger can drag or stick in the coil sleeve causing reduced power such as you're seeing. Some people will file off the burs on the plunger or you can replace it. If the plunger is damaged, I'd be replacing the coil sleeve as this won't be smooth anymore and the coil stop.
It may or may not be the issue but definitely worth checking

Thanks ! I'll take a look

#3734 3 months ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

And it's back
My dreaded "damn ball won't exit the Slide VUK" issue
Here's a video:
I've cleaned up the sleeve, replaced the coil, checked all mechanics, and this issue appears once in a while. Sometimes it works fine for a few days, then fails on one launch, sometimes it fails consistently (as in the linked video, I had to remove the glass to catch the ball).
I'm starting to think the control circuitry is at fault. Checking on the schematics there is a control transistor, has anyone experienced a failure on a control transistor of that nature ?

I would definitely check the mechanical first. Put a ball in the VUK and try pushing on the plunger yourself. If you are able to get the plunger to exit the VUK without any difficulties then the coil should be able to do it by itself too. If there are no mechanical issues, then I would check your voltages on the coil. Hook up your DMM and see if there are any fluctuations in the voltage. My DMM will actually measure the voltage in real time so I can see if the proper voltage is there while the VUK is in standby mode and then it will change as the VUK enables.

#3735 3 months ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

And it's back
My dreaded "damn ball won't exit the Slide VUK" issue
Here's a video:
I've cleaned up the sleeve, replaced the coil, checked all mechanics, and this issue appears once in a while. Sometimes it works fine for a few days, then fails on one launch, sometimes it fails consistently (as in the linked video, I had to remove the glass to catch the ball).
I'm starting to think the control circuitry is at fault. Checking on the schematics there is a control transistor, has anyone experienced a failure on a control transistor of that nature ?

How is the cup on top of the plunger? If one of the little tabs is broken off it throws the ball to the side and that prevents it from working all the time.

#3736 3 months ago

So I checked the plunger, nothing odd (plus I don't see how mushrooming can happen on this part)

The plastic cup is fine

I took a scope shoot of the coil (this is the pin that is driven to ground when activating), as you can see no specific issue (less than one micro second, 70v - there is an attenuation of 10 on my probe otherwise I exceed the max input of the scope so the scope shoot shows 7V)

I'm puzzled....

20210217_170917 (resized).jpg20210217_193139 (resized).jpg20210217_193223 (resized).jpgCFTBL VUK (resized).jpg
#3737 3 months ago

You're correct. Mushrooming cannot happen on this part. We were thinking there was a coil stop here but this is a VUK so you don't have to worry about it.

Let's talk about WHEN this starts to malfunction. You said you were playing a few games and things are fine, but then the VUK starts messing up. How long has the pinball machine been on at this point? Was it on prior to you playing, or was it off and then you fired it up to play? Does this issue occur when the pin is cold and hot, or just after it's been hot for a while?

Are you sure that's the right coil sleeve? It looks like it's sticking out of the top a lot. P/N is 03-7067-5.
VUK (resized).JPG

#3738 3 months ago

As of now, it happens pretty much all the time, regardless of how long it has been on. I have a ball stuck in the vuk and left pinball off for a few hours, turned it on, and vuk cannot eject.

I realize that I should have taken a scope shoot of the other pin of the coil, in case there is a drop of voltage at the same time as other pin being driven to ground , I'll try that tomorrow

On the coil sleeve, I'm definitely not sure, I'll check.

At first look, would you say the plastic cup is at the correct height? When the ball is un the vuk, what should be it's default position?

#3739 3 months ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

So I checked the plunger, nothing odd (plus I don't see how mushrooming can happen on this part)
The plastic cup is fine
I took a scope shoot of the coil (this is the pin that is driven to ground when activating), as you can see no specific issue (less than one micro second, 70v - there is an attenuation of 10 on my probe otherwise I exceed the max input of the scope so the scope shoot shows 7V)
I'm puzzled.... [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yup - my bad, I didn't double check the type of mech it uses.

Did you try manually moving the plunger up & down with you finger? Was there any resistance - also try rotating the plunger into different positions and test plunging again in case the plunger is catching when it is in a certain position

#3740 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yup - my bad, I didn't double checking the type of mech it uses.
Did you try manually moving the plunger up & down with you finger? Was there any resistance - also try rotating the plunger into different positions and test plunging again in case the plunger is catching when it is in a certain position

I did test manually when I replaced the sleeve and the coil. There does not seem to be any resistance. I tried to look top down on the plastic cup when it tries to eject the ball, I did not see anything odd.

Only thing I can think off now is to check the opposite pin, check the sleeve, check the length of the plunger and the position of the plastic cup. Maybe add a washer?

#3741 3 months ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

I did test manually when I replaced the sleeve and the coil. There does not seem to be any resistance. I tried to look top down on the plastic cup when it tries to eject the ball, I did not see anything odd.
Only thing I can think off now is to check the opposite pin, check the sleeve, check the length of the plunger and the position of the plastic cup. Maybe add a washer?

Hi Ashram56,

I had a similar problem back in January of 2010 with my WH2O where the VUK was very inconsistent delivering the ball to the upper playfield. After spending hours troubleshooting this issue I discovered that the wireform from the VUK to the upper playfield was slightly out of alignment and as a result the wireform would sometimes absorb much of the energy from the VUK and the ball wouldn't make it to the upper playfield.

Well, long story short I made a very slight adjustment to the installation of the wireform so that it was lined up to the VUK more accurately and for the past 10 years VUK upkicks have a nearly 100 percent success rate. This may not be your issue with your CFTBL, but it is something that you may want to take a look at. I don't know if you have a reproduction or original playfield, but on some reproduction playfields the dimpling holes may not be 100 percent perfect for wireform placement.

Gord

#3742 3 months ago
Quoted from gac:

I got it at a pinball show several years ago from someone selling Creech mods. I don't believe it was a regular mod vendor. Here are a couple still pics of the sign lit up. My lousy phone camera washes out the words on the white part of the sign. I'll try to do some research on it's origins and report back.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Big thanks to Manny65 I now have one of these coming to Australia all up cost is about $55 Australian. Not cheap but it’s pinball LOL we don’t mind spending alot on these toys hey LOL LOL lol

Will update when it arrives again thanks Brett Manny65

#3743 3 months ago

[EDIT] The coil sleeve is in backwards.

Quoted from GRB1959:

Hi ashram56,
I had a similar problem back in January of 2010 with my WH2O where the VUK was very inconsistent delivering the ball to the upper playfield. After spending hours troubleshooting this issue I discovered that the wireform from the VUK to the upper playfield was slightly out of alignment and as a result the wireform would sometimes absorb much of the energy from the VUK and the ball wouldn't make it to the upper playfield.
Well, long story short I made a very slight adjustment to the installation of the wireform so that it was lined up to the VUK more accurately and for the past 10 years VUK upkicks have a nearly 100 percent success rate. This may not be your issue with your CFTBL, but it is something that you may want to take a look at. I don't know if you have a reproduction or original playfield, but on some reproduction playfields the dimpling holes may not be 100 percent perfect for wireform placement.
Gord

I will echo what Ashram56 said. I had a WH2O that did this as well. I had the upper PF clearcoated and that threw off the alignment of the VUK wireform just enough that the ball would come back down into the VUK again. I had totally forgotten about this. I remember it vividly now though. It was a huge pain in the ass when you sent two balls into the VUK. One ball would pop into the wireform and the second ball would roll into the VUK while the first was falling back down so you'd end up with the VUK trying to send two balls through the wireform at the same time. Man that was a piss off. Especially if you got 3 balls line up in there.

#3744 3 months ago
Quoted from Fifty:

[EDIT] The coil sleeve is in backwards.

I will echo what ashram56 said. I had a WH2O that did this as well. I had the upper PF clearcoated and that threw off the alignment of the VUK wireform just enough that the ball would come back down into the VUK again. I had totally forgotten about this. I remember it vividly now though. It was a huge pain in the ass when you sent two balls into the VUK. One ball would pop into the wireform and the second ball would roll into the VUK while the first was falling back down so you'd end up with the VUK trying to send two balls through the wireform at the same time. Man that was a piss off. Especially if you got 3 balls line up in there.

What is odd is that if I reverse the sleeve, it sticks out at the bottom, thus actually creating a stop for the plunger and reducing it's movement range. I checked the PN provided, and it's supposed to be a 52mm sleeve, which is actually slightly longer than mine (51mm on paper, will check it's real lenght)

I'll try to adjust the wireform on top, although I did not see anything obvious when I checked the ejection of the ball

Man this issue is a real pain to debug

#3745 3 months ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

What is odd is that if I reverse the sleeve, it sticks out at the bottom, thus actually creating a stop for the plunger and reducing it's movement range. I checked the PN provided, and it's supposed to be a 52mm sleeve, which is actually slightly longer than mine (51mm on paper, will check it's real lenght)
I'll try to adjust the wireform on top, although I did not see anything obvious when I checked the ejection of the ball
Man this issue is a real pain to debug

Do you have any extra coil sleeves? You could always cut one a bit shorter and give that a try.

If the VUK to the right inlane the same? You could compare the two VUKs and see if there is anything different between the two.

#3746 3 months ago

Got my DIY swinks poster mod installed. The instructions he put together are super!

23D7849C-8BE5-4208-B9E4-0293128A1F83 (resized).jpeg

3d-101 (resized).jpg
#3747 3 months ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Do you have any extra coil sleeves? You could always cut one a bit shorter and give that a try.
If the VUK to the right inlane the same? You could compare the two VUKs and see if there is anything different between the two.

I checked the movement of the plunger, the way the sleeve is mounted on my original picture do not interfere at all with the movement (since the plunger is blocked by the metal plate at the rear anyway).

I disassembled, added a small 2.5mm thick (3D printer to the rescue) washer below the plastic cup, attempted to realign the wireform ramp (although impact was not obvious). So far so good, the ball ejected directly at power up.

That said it did work in the past, so i'll have to play quite a few games to determine if the issue is solved

[EDIT] And of course it did not solve it...
Man I'm getting crazy with this issue

Only option left now is measuring the voltage swing on the second pin (in case there is a drop), and measure current during power up of the coil. As a reference, would anyone have the coil resistance (in ohm) ?

#3748 3 months ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

I checked the movement of the plunger, the way the sleeve is mounted on my original picture do not interfere at all with the movement (since the plunger is blocked by the metal plate at the rear anyway).
I disassembled, added a small 2.5mm thick (3D printer to the rescue) washer below the plastic cup, attempted to realign the wireform ramp (although impact was not obvious). So far so good, the ball ejected directly at power up.
That said it did work in the past, so i'll have to play quite a few games to determine if the issue is solved
[EDIT] And of course it did not solve it...
Man I'm getting crazy with this issue
Only option left now is measuring the voltage swing on the second pin (in case there is a drop), and measure current during power up of the coil. As a reference, would anyone have the coil resistance (in ohm) ?

Could this problem have anything to do with the optics that trigger that VUK being dirty?

#3749 3 months ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

Could this problem have anything to do with the optics that trigger that VUK being dirty?

At this stage I would be ready to grasp any straw, but in all honesty I would be surprised, since the opto essentially act as a trigger to energize the coil, and my problem is not that the coil does not start, it's that it does not have enough power

#3750 3 months ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

At this stage I would be ready to grasp any straw, but in all honesty I would be surprised, since the opto essentially act as a trigger to energize the coil, and my problem is not that the coil does not start, it's that it does not have enough power

What’s the driver transistor? If it’s a TIP102, you should be able to ground the metal tab to see if it’s possibly an issue with the transistor itself. Or just ground the wire at the coil, if you know which side to ground...

I suppose a cold solder joint could be at play, restricting current flow? Or a partially failed transistor. Or some added coil resistance? All seem unlikely, but I suppose anything is possible.

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