It’s pretty subtle. Just a slight sway.

Thanks. Another question. My hologram looks great, other than the his left hand - it’s blurry. Is that a bad hologram, or is there some way to fix it? I don’t see a lot in the way of focus adjustments....

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Get the MikeD mod.. problem solved! Lol. The holograms go bad as they age unfortunately

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Good luck finding one.

There are unobtanium, correct? I’d prefer his mod. Just trying to work with what I have.

understand. they do come up occasionally but not readily available. unfortunately the holograms are getting high as well, crazy there isn't a good affordable solution to this.

there soon will be

Just Get a Mike d he says... easier said than done my friend. Also prepare to cash that lotto ticket when one does come up I think the last one sold for almost 1k?

Most of those motors are removed from creech anyway, probably because the resulting effect isn't worth the potential risk to your hologram. Yours looks like a really nice original. Personally, I wouldn't be putting a motor underneath bending it.

Earlier this year someone on pinballinfo asked me to build something that could replace the motor with a lighting rig - something that could emulate the 'ripple' effect but using LEDs. This is what we came up with.

Using the hologram (repro)

Using an edge lit acrylic

https://www.stumblorpinball.com/product/the-rippler-creature-from-the-black-lagoon-ripple-fx-board/5

Peek at my restore in progress. Pretty proud how the seams came out. A little trick I used a black ink Pen to blackout the white edges from the decals

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Looking super slick @soulrider911. Make sure you trim the decals about 1mm in from those protectors or you'll still risk getting wrinkles. Made that mistake myself!

Wow, looks awesome! Hope mine turns out so well!

stumblor already got ya! cheers

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Nice job Daddy-O!

Looks awesome - makes me want to do mine (it's on the list but alot of others to do first)

Well done!!

Ok. Question for the group. Does anyone know where I could get the two decals fir the window? They seem to be pretty hard to come by.
If not, are there any suggestions on how to clean up my window without damaging the decals?

You mean the two decals for the playfield window?
https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/decals/decals-playfield-ramp/creature-from-the-black-lagoon-window-decal-set/

Awesome. I tried to order the window and decals (together as a single item) from them earlier this week, but they refunded my money today because they were out of stock. Fingers crossed that they were just out of the physical window.

Duplicate post

Are these ones opaque? The original ones are transparent. Sort of like the decals Marco sells for the whirlpool. You can see through the originals but the replicas are solid so you can't.

No that's the backer you are looking at. The decals have the adhesive on the top side of the decal instead of the back.

ah crap, I would need advice (although I already made some progress, but if anyone has experience with the symptoms I have it would be nice)

My Creature is encountering multiple failures, at least partially. Sound is gone, so is Pin2DMD. Flashers/inserts/coils seem to work, at least partially.

What I checked:
- Voltage input on J501 should be 20VAC according to the schematics, straight from the transformer, I have 10V DC (!): I suppose I have something odd in my transformer ? How is it even possible to get 10V DC on a transformer 20V AC output (unless I misread my multimeter, but I checked a few times as I was super puzzled)
- Voltage output on J118 (which I use for powering Pin2DMD) should be 12V, I have zero. I have checked the fuses, they are all OK. I have yet to trace 12V generation (I suppose there is a regulator somewhere with a rectifier)

What is odd is that 20VAC failed first (ie sound was failing, so I started to look into it - I have a TiltAudio - and I noticed the TiltAudio board was not powering up, so I checked 20VAC input first, it was gone), but rest was functional. Then all of sudden 12V disappeared.

So:
- Has anyone experienced transformer failure, is this common ? I mean, to lose 20VAC is a pretty rare occurence I would think
- How is 12V generated ? I can check the schematics but if someone already has that info that would save me some time
- Would anyone has the pinout of the transformer connectors ? I can't find it in my Creech manual

Thanks and regards

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC is a great resource for information

The below shows the transformer connections to the Power Driver board

WPC089_power_summary (resized).png

Another piece of the puzzle...

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Nice. I have one of those on order as well.

I'm so jealous.

Is that a screened back glass?

It looks like it comes from CPR.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/cftbl-glass/

Gord

It's a CPR silkscreened mirrored backglass. They were just recently on sale. I almost pulled the trigger on one.

oooo man I tried to order one a while back and they where gone, just ordered one !!

Does anyone know what rubbers are correct for the window? Pic added since my description is lacking, ha.

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I used these: https://www.pinballlife.com/716-od-white-mini-post-rubbers.html

Thanks!!

So glad they offered these again!!!....missed out last time...ordered..

yep, that's all it moves. it's just enough to flex the plate and make it look like the creature is under water (shifting a bit)

Looking for a mint Creech, anyone looking to leave the club? Yes, I have seen the current ads...

here is a video posted today by Pinball Supernova

Has anyone seen this issue before?

The wire gate next to my snackbar hole is getting snagged on the nylon lock nut. I've exaggerated it in this photo to show the gate can actually be suspended partially open. A shot up the middle can sometimes cause the gate to bounce open, get snagged and result in a rejected the ball. It all happens in the blink of an eye. This issue started happening after I installed the pink rubber posts from Titan.

- I compared the sizes of the pink post rubbers to the original black ones. They are identical in size.
- I double checked the installation of the pink post closest to the gate. It is installed correctly.

I don't see any correlating issue between the install of the new post rubbers and the gate.

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Fifty I had an issue like this in the past. 2 things you can try. First loosen the mounting screws for the gate on both sides I think you can move a bit left to right as the holes are slotted if my memory serves me .

The other option is to squeeze the gate (bend it a little) to make it just a bit thinner. Hope this helps

I looked at mine and it looks like you may actually have a larger nut?? Lol
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Made some progress on my custom acrylic backboard, thought I would share

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nice work, looking forward to the end results

I don't want to get into a nut comparison contest (yet). I think it's just the photo. That lock nut is the same as all the other ones on the pin.

I tried fixing my wiregate tonight. I had to take half the pin apart to get at the damn bracket that holds it in place. The left side was indeed slotted but the right was not. However, there was enough play on the right side that I was able to push the metal bracket that holds the wiregate over to the left a bit. I tightened it down, and it was better, but still rubbed. I noticed that the U that triggers the switch was bent back/down a bit so I used my non-serrated pliers and managed to bend it straighter. The wiregate no longer rubs. I doesn't make any contact at all. I still have to put the game back together before I can see if it corrected the problem. The photo I took looks like it is still over top of the lock nut, but it has plenty of clearance now.

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This looks killer. What are your full plans? Keep us posted!

Hologramme alternative.

Looking great, nice work! Looking forward to seeing where this one goes.

Laying of the 30cm UV adhesive strip at the bottom of the box in front of this base, here is the result:
Power supply 12 on the J116

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holo alternative...
nice work on the holo alternative, always considered this when I had a model but never got around to it.

back board lighting...
looks great

that looks cool @crazy79! i am thinking of also using an inline led controller so it can be faded. ALso might add a flasher and tie it into one of the flashers.

crazy79 That looks incredible. Hologram alternative is great as well. More details for both please.

Question for Creech owners. I'm putting the main ramp back into the game. Came across this little guy near the KISS hole. Basically the main ramp sits on it. The configuration looked weird to me. If this the way it's supposed to be installed? My thinking is the black piece should be above.

Here is the general location. It's located close the metal plate on the left side of the game.
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Here's the bit I'm talking about
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This is the exact location. The bit I'm talking about is not installed on this new ramp.
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It is used to keep the other ramp at the correct height. It goes on the top of the lower ramp.

As drummermike said - here's some pics to help

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