Congrats on a great game!!

But show pics, or ....it didn't happen

Anyone have an extra CREATURE BLACK LAGOON (Bally) 8 Lamp Board A-15672?

I picked up a CFTBL recently and it was missing the 8 lamp board that goes under the whirlpool bowl.

Let me clean her up a bit more and I will post some pics.. I don't want to bring her to the dance in a dirty dress...

I recently swapped my my Creature's LED GI. Took out the cool white and replaced it with sunlight from Comet. It's a very nice looking mid-range alternative to warm or cool. Also scored my first ever super jackpot.

My CFTBL (with ColorDMD, lit taillights speaker panel, snackbar EL-wire, green undercab lighting, Pinball MikeD TV-mod under lagoon plastic, and proto 3-D translite) plus Creature movie poster to the left.Creature with mods.jpgNote the originally intended placement of plastic piece over left outlane, which makes a 3-D image with the left slingshot plastic under it.my first three games.jpg

Never heard about the 3-D translite ... Where did that come from?

Installing a green LED undercabinet flasher and wanted to see if anyone had a suggestion on which flasher to attach it to? Or does anyone know where on the illumination board to make a connection so it flashes at the same time as any flasher?

Mine came with one

General Pinball 012.jpg

looking very nice

Anybody out there looking for a MikeD hologram mod. I have one I just received a week ago and it works great. But it is not for me so I removed it after ten games or so. $400 with new monitor takes it.Thats like getting the monitor for free.

Thanks in part to your fine EL-wire snackbar mod. I know my Creature has several mods on it, but I am actually selective about adding them to my games. For instance, I only have a few mods on my TZ and they make dozens of them for that game.

IMG_0875.jpgIMG_0877-915.jpg

There is my baby that I picked up this weekend.. LEDed the Inserts and almost all of the Backbox… Still need to clean the ramps and replace the bulbs in them quite a few bunt out...

Curious what about the mod made you change your mind?

Here is a question.. So my Mega Menu insert is raising and I am not sure what the best way to deal with this would be… I know it wouldn't be a tough insert to touch up but what is your guys suggestion on how to deal with this interns of keeping it from getting any worse, and getting set back in at the proper depth…

Also would you keep playing it and such.. Like I said I know it won't be a hard insert to touch up and I want to play it so bad but in the end of the day what would you do?

Thanks,

Paul

you could always put on a playfield protector to even out the levels and enjoy playing until you are ready to do a over haul, fix, touchups and clear coat.

Beautiful game! Congrats, and enjoy

You mean Mylar?

Thanks..

Nope, he means a playfield protector.

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-CFTBL-PF-PROTECTOR

Didn't know those existed-pretty cool!

How to those compare to mylar when it time to remove them? Are they any easier????

This weekend is shaping up to be awesome as I will be bringing home my really nice Creech tomorrow and the local ski hills are opening too thanks to the snow dump we have been having the last few days

I believe that they are made out of a mylar type material, however they just lie in place (not adhesive backed). and unfortunately, BBA has been out of stock on the cftbl playfield protector (along with many others) for months now. I have no idea if they plan on restocking them

I haven't seen these in person, but I believe they are more rigid than mylar, like a thin piece of plastic. I also believe that most of the playfield has to be disassembled in order to install. There is quite a bit of information about it on the review on Pinball News:

http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/playfieldprotector/index.html

They are precision cut, so they just sit on the playfield. No adhesive. They're much thicker than mylar. Also, unlike mylar, they don't create a dull finish. The playfield protector gives a clearcoat-like appearance.

I put on on my cftbl and I'm pleased with it. I did some playfield touch-up but wasn't looking to strip the underside and do a full clear-coat, so the playfield protector was the ideal solution for me.

There's a big thread on this here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-protector-full-sheet-plastic

Does anyone have advice on how to go about replacing or repairing the snack bar target switches? Mine are intermittent and need some work. Part number is A-16206-2 but they are not available anywhere online. I'd like to have some replacement parts on hand before I disasseble anything so if anyone knows of an alternate part number I could modify or cannibalize to make mine work it would be much appreciated.

Just take a paper business card in between contacts squeeze and slide card side to side

Alright, thanks for the tips!

Does anyone have a spare one of these? It is the plastic below the VUK on the right side. I need one.

GS-CFTBL31-1698-5L.jpg

I have a used one. No cracks, but there are some small scratches on the back that show through.

PM me your details, and you can have it if you want it.

image-795.jpg

So I cleaned the contacts yesterday with a business card. Also tried to bend the contacts a little. I still can't get the ball to activate the switch. If I go into the switch test utility I can get the switches to work consistently with my finger. I read somewhere online it's possible the capacitors are bad? I thought those were diodes soldered to the switches but I'm still learning.

If it works with your finger i would think it just needs some adjustment. Perhaps a little bending one way or another.

Perhaps raise it up a little.

you are correct. those are diodes (and not capacitors) soldered to the blades of the micro switches.

it's possible that you may just need to adjust the switch wire a bit so that the when the ball travels over the wire, it's moving it enough to trigger the micro switch. I would give that a try first since you stated that in the switch test mode, you're able to trigger them with your fingers.

(you should also replicate the scenario of the ball moving over the switch wire in switch test mode to see if the ball can successfully trigger the switch)

Actually these are the blade type stand up switches that have 4 upright blades of copper with some kind of insulator in the back. Please correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the way these work is it is a normally open switch that closes when pushed back to make contact with the 2nd set of copper blades? Does is need to break contact with the first shorter blade before it can "make" the second blade?

ok. for the blade type switches, you should really get yourself one of these (a leaf switch tool):
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1518

and then read up on vid's guide to rebuilding pop bumpers and scroll down to here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers#post-486047

he covers in great depth how the leaf switches should be adjusted

Great info, thank you. I didn't know about that adjustment tool.

I found a good explanation on these type of switches here too

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/standup-target-switch-adjustment

I'll try again tomorrow.

Can anyone help me to identify this part number for the post?
Thought maybe 02-4252-19? Can't find anything similar.

Capture.PNG

Ok repair help. Was using my CFTBL in tourney this weekend. Fuse f116 blew in middle of game during a multiball killing flippers and creature hologram motors and lights. Tried replacing just continued to blow. Several hours later changed fuse and seemed to be playing good so just wrote it off to the heavy use. Cut to today. Install speaker panel led mod, play a game or two things same good. Get multiball going again and sgain fuse blows. Now realizing it's happening during multiball I install new fuse and go into test mode to test hologram and sure enough it blows. Disconnect both motors, new fuse, test mode again blows with only the hologram bulb going. Take out bulb, keep motors disconnected, test mode and success fuse holds. Play 5 games, several multiballs, fuse holds. So what's wrong? What should I do other than have no hologram? Please help. Thanks. -Tommy

F116 will blow because there is already a ton of stuff running through that circuit. the speaker panel mod and a colorDMD (if you own one), just add [even] more draw.

you can try moving the speaker panel to the 115 or 117 connector, but I would also check the condition of your flasher bulbs in the backbox. bulbs that are old and on their way out will also draw more current in order to stay lit.

a friend of mine had the same issues that you're having (he also had pinballmiked's LED mod in his machine), and once he removed the flashers from his backbox, everything seemed to stabilize.

The Pinbits hologram lamp replacement is much brighter and draws less power than the original.

http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7

You could also go with the Pinbits and get an LCD spot that draws about 7 watts. MikeD hologram mod and use a separate 12 volt power supply and that will lessen your draw on the 12 volt circuit

I can usually find hex spacers at my local Ace Hardware. Big box stores won't have them. Digi Key and McMaster are also good places online, just be prepared to stock up so shipping isn't as painful.

Hit my highest score ever on Creech. I'm sure others have done better, but I consider myself lucky if I break 100M, so this was a major achievement!

High Score 12-10-14.jpg

pretty good score for a game sitting on it's side like that

hehe

I found creech to be a utter bear when I first got mine (the increased 1/8" space between the flippers makes a huge difference). he's right, getting a score even close to 100M felt satisfying. I still haven't cracked the 1B barrier, but my games are much more respectable.

The thing I love about Creature is that there is so much potential for insane scores.

On many pinball machines, to get a really good score, you've just got to play for an hour.

On Creature, you could take the glass off and cheat and break 1 billion in a minute or two.

not at my house