CFTBL- Fans and members welcome!!!

(Topic ID: 79267)

CFTBL- Fans and members welcome!!!


By vilant

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,354 posts
  • 290 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 hours ago by CyberNinja24
  • Topic is favorited by 154 Pinsiders

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There are 2354 posts in this topic. You are on page 47 of 48.
#2301 37 days ago

Jady's killer snackbar mod w pink el...Very, very nice!!!

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#2302 32 days ago

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#2303 32 days ago

I've long had the lit speaker-panel mod in my Creech but decided to add ColorDMD finally - they both point to using J116 - what did everyone else do just further tie into J116 or move the speaker panel mod to J117? Thanks!

#2304 32 days ago

J115, 116 and 117 all tie to the same 5v

you can pigtail off of the same one connector or just use another, however CftBL is a game that is known to have issues if you attempt to run too many extra "features" (aka mods) at the same time

#2305 31 days ago
Quoted from j_m_:

J115, 116 and 117 all tie to the same 5v
you can pigtail off of the same one connector or just use another, however CftBL is a game that is known to have issues if you attempt to run too many extra "features" (aka mods) at the same time

Thanks man!! I moved ahead and all is well....got to say..colordmd and lit speaker-panel looks amazing

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#2306 31 days ago

Has anyone tried the aftermarket chase light board? From the video it seems that it does not improve the handling of LEDs From a stock board. Disappointed.

#2307 31 days ago
Quoted from j_m_:

J115, 116 and 117 all tie to the same 5v
you can pigtail off of the same one connector or just use another, however CftBL is a game that is known to have issues if you attempt to run too many extra "features" (aka mods) at the same time

Until I tried to play a game....damn't J_M_....apparently with the speaker panel mod and the colordmd (all tied to J116)- the flippers hardly flip at all....J116, J117 & J118 all are 12VDC.....J117 sends 12v (& 5v) to the DMD Controller Board....J118 sends 12v to the Chase PCB under the playfield ....and J116 powers the flipper opto switches AND coin door interface board - in one giant loop....and presumably having the speaker panel mod on there and the ColorDMD and I've got no flippers......WTF...how the heck are all these Creech's having both with no problems?

#2308 31 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Until I tried to play a game....damn't J_M_....apparently with the speaker panel mod and the colordmd (all tied to J116)- the flippers hardly flip at all....J116, J117 & J118 all are 12VDC.....J117 sends 12v (& 5v) to the DMD Controller Board....J118 sends 12v to the Chase PCB under the playfield ....and J116 powers the flipper opto switches AND coin door interface board - in one giant loop....and presumably having the speaker panel mod on there and the ColorDMD and I've got no flippers......WTF...how the heck are all these Creech's having both with no problems?

J116, J117 and J118 all share the same power source point and on a boardset that has been serviced you will be fine for a few mods but each mod starts to drain the 12vdc and it's available amperage.

Does your game have any other mods apart from the:
- colordmd
- speaker panel

as when you connect the following mods as well the game just starts to shutdown
- pinballmiked holo lcd mod
- swinks snackbar mod v1.0

Therefore with yours if the boardset hasn't been serviced for a while eg various capacitors / bridge rectifiers etc you will have power drain issues. The trick is to get a 12vdc power pack and plug in the available socket in the base of the cabinet on the inside close to where the power switch is on the outside to power a few mods and it won't affect the power needed for your game.

#2309 31 days ago

I wire an external power supply to all of my games for this very reason. Just about all PC's have a robust power supply...dirt cheap..( free if you`ve got an old pc sitting around, waiting for the trash)...

https://makezine.com/projects/computer-power-supply-to-bench-power-supply-adapter/

#2310 31 days ago

Guys, get a backup power supply and route all your mods to it. These games are nearly 30 years old. They weren't meant to piggyback 5+ mods especially the ones taxing the 12V circuit.

#2311 27 days ago

Getting my hands dirty on this beauty!
Does anyone know good stuff to fix the ball tracks in the ramps?...

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#2312 27 days ago
Quoted from dwightheinink:

Getting my hands dirty on this beauty!
Does anyone know good stuff to fix the ball tracks in the ramps?...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

A good cleaning with novus 2 and a delicate flame polish and they will look new again. Just watch the heat!!!

#2313 27 days ago
Quoted from dwightheinink:

Getting my hands dirty on this beauty!
Does anyone know good stuff to fix the ball tracks in the ramps?...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

clean them real well then you cant flame polish them out sometime. if you have no experience flame polishing, just buy new ones. its a tricky process that can go wrong quick.

#2314 27 days ago
Quoted from dwightheinink:

Does anyone know good stuff to fix the ball tracks in the ramps?...

When all else fails use fire.

I know it's a little silly if your ramps aren't busted, but MAN new ramps look great on 'da Creature.

#2315 27 days ago

Looking at your ramps I would clean than flame polish and they will look great.

#2316 27 days ago

if you don't feel comfortable attempting to flame polish, then don't. you're probably better off either:
- cleaning them with novus 3 and dealing with how they are
or
- cleaning them with novus 3, then sell them as used (you'll get slightly more if you take the time to clean up as best you can first)
- purchase and install a new set of ramps

either way, you'll be amazed at much different the game looks when the ramps are completely clear and you can see through them to the playfield!

#2317 25 days ago

I Believe they are just dead, I've also got some big cracks. Would that be possible to fix with also flame polishing?

#2318 25 days ago
Quoted from dwightheinink:

I Believe they are just dead, I've also got some big cracks. Would that be possible to fix with also flame polishing?

no, once a flame hits a crack or hole It will split right open. also when flame polishing you have to make sure you hold ramp where there is no weight against it. because the ramps own weight will cause the ramp to bend as it heats up and softens, then you get all kinds of wrong angles on your ramps. to much heat will cause it to bubble. with the length and curve of most of those ramps, that would be one of the last machines you need to practice your flame polishing on. order some new ones and then just practice on the old ones that are cracked and no good.

#2319 25 days ago

you can go to you local autoparts supplier and buy car headlight cleaner / polish and this will greatly improve the look of the plastic

#2320 25 days ago

I think it would be just ordering new ones... Thank you for your help guys!

#2321 25 days ago
Quoted from dwightheinink:

I think it would be just ordering new ones... Thank you for your help guys!

You cant go wrong with new ones.

#2322 25 days ago

I've done new ramps on both of my Creatures and always considered it money well spent... HOWEVER I will warn you, if you don't change the lagoon window at the same time it looks really shabby afterwards. Just sayin!

#2323 24 days ago

Thats right fiberdude120

Okay! gunstarhero expensive unfortunately but I'll sure know it will look way better!

#2324 21 days ago

The bulbs in my swamp orbit keep losing contact. This is much more prevalent and noticeable after swapping out to mini LEDS to add a bit of green colour to the swamp.
I have squeezed back together the contacts many times using a small tweezer or screw driver, but after 5-10 games the bulbs lose their connection again. Has anyone had a fix for this? Im not sure if you can even get the bulb sockets to refresh the board.

#2325 21 days ago

I had the same problem. The LED base is a bit too small and loose fitting in the lamp socket.
Take the LEDs out and bend the contact wires straight out off the wedge base. Then cut some narrow strips of electrical tape long enough so you are able to make 1-1/2 to 2 wraps of tape around the LED base. (You are essentially making the base a little bit bigger) Now bend the wires back down over the top of the tape on the wedge base. Re-install the LEDs, they should now fit more snug and not come loose. I no longer have any issues with loosing contact, hopefully this will help you as well.

#2326 21 days ago

I’m looking for a tailight mod like the one Thompson made. If anyone has one they aren’t going to use send me a pm. Happy New Year

#2327 21 days ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

I’m looking for a tailight mod like the one Thompson made. If anyone has one they aren’t going to use send me a pm. Happy New Year

I believe the maker sells them on EBay. That’s where I found mine. Looks great.

#2328 20 days ago

Back in biz! I re-pinned J114 and J101 and replaced the J101 connector....put in an EZSBC 5V regulator and removed a few Z-connectors in the back box while I was in there.....so far so good....re-set free.....those regulators are fantastic....

#2329 20 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Back in biz! I re-pinned J114 and J101 and replaced the J101 connector....put in an EZSBC 5V regulator and removed a few Z-connectors in the back box while I was in there.....so far so good....re-set free.....those regulators are fantastic....

Have you noticed any audio issues when powering off? Like the noise from the speakers becoming louder?

#2330 20 days ago

Nice idea with the tape around the leds. I feel that it’s fatigue in the spring connection that’s just wobbling loose with the ramp and sling firing over time. Fattening up the bulb bases will alleviate that so they have no more wiggle room.

#2331 18 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I believe the maker sells them on EBay. That’s where I found mine. Looks great.

Can’t find it. Do you have a link yelobird thanks.

#2332 18 days ago

Also where do I find the kit for lighting up the pops.
Who’s best for new ramps.

#2333 18 days ago

There’s no “kit”. Lighting the pops is just installing standard pop bumper lamp holders and wiring them into the respective trigger location. If you want them constant on, piggybacking off a gi socket works.if you want flashing you need to wire to the lightning insert lamps and use resistors. Lots of guides out there in this thread and a quick google

#2335 18 days ago

jokerpoker ramps can be purchased from Nino at RTBB
https://www.rtbb.com.au/product-category/ramps/page/2/

will reply to your pm soon, off to the beach, dam hot

#2336 18 days ago

Wanted to give a quick shout out to fellow pinsider @60grit for his outstanding modification - the Chase Light Board that replaces the standard one that comes in our games. I hadn't really seen anyone here mention it other than him, so I took the plunge and bought it. Fantastic upgrade from the original. Comes programmed with 8 different sequences, and the 9th sequence plays all 8 sequences in a random setting. This happens in both attract mode as well as during FILM MB. Construction is solid - identical in size to the original, comes with the black mounting spacers, and all you need to transfer are the screws the mount the board to the underside of the PF. Colored instructions with clear directions are provided, and it was at most a 10 minute installation. Simple and user-friendly.

Here is a picture of old versus new - old board to the left and new on the right. Unfortunately, my camera viewed the angle taken as a vertical picture (no idea why), so apologies for the lack of detail.
20190103_190001 (resized).jpg

Yes, at $235, it is a bit on the pricey side. That being said, this is a low-run production unit, and there's no guarantee he will keep making them once the initial stash is depleted. Works with my LEDs 100% with zero issues as the video shows below:

I paid for it on Sunday, and it arrived on Thursday - during the New Year holiday - which was super quick.

Buy with confidence. You won't be disappointed.

#2337 18 days ago

That's pretty slick! I am assuming that's sequence 9?

#2338 17 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

That's pretty slick! I am assuming that's sequence 9?

Sure is!

#2339 17 days ago
Quoted from NPO:

Shout out to fellow pinsider @60grit for his outstanding modification - the Chase Light Board.

Thanks for the recommendation - just ordered one.

#2340 17 days ago

Do you know if his chase light board works if game also has led ocd board?

#2341 17 days ago
Quoted from 2Fun:

Do you know if his chase light board works if game also has led ocd board?

Negative. Don't have the LEDOCR Board in my game.

#2342 17 days ago
Quoted from NPO:

Buy with confidence. You won't be disappointed.

Sorry, but I am disappointed.

That board does not solve the problem of the instant on/off of LEDs. The added patterns are nice. But the original pattern looks no different than the stock board. I was hoping someone would update the board to simulate the ramped on/off like incandescents, ala the OCD board. I will keep waiting.

This is a similar project that works properly with LEDs:

#2343 15 days ago

FYI - for those of you with a bad hologram and don't want to spend $300-500 for a new one...

I will not build kits (I have a job and there is no way to make enough to make this worthwhile) but I posted this on a CFTBL related forum on Pinside so I thought I would reference it here as well.

If you want help email me and I will offer some direction.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hologram-mod-for-creature-from-pinballsp-is-under-development/page/19#post-4770392

#2344 15 days ago

That looks pretty bad ass, actually. Great job.

#2345 11 days ago

Check out my Creature that comes with an authentic full sized Creature ... the game is totally decked out. Powder Coated, Color Screen, New Ramps, Creature Shooter, Every Mod known to man kind, side blade art, you name it working perfect and shopped.

What do you think?

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#2346 11 days ago
Quoted from drfrightner:

Check out my Creature that comes with an authentic full sized Creature ... the game is totally decked out. Powder Coated, Color Screen, New Ramps, Creature Shooter, Every Mod known to man kind, side blade art, you name it working perfect and shopped.
What do you think?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

1. The translite title is washed out with green LEDs.

2. I dont see the tail light speaker panel mod.

3. Same for MikeD's retired LCD mod. Then again, your hologram may be working just fine.

4. Swink's absolutely mandatory Snackbar mod is MIA.

Cool full sized creature!!!

#2347 11 days ago

Nice, but you still have a ways to go to get to "every mod known...". The two coolest mods for Creature (maybe for any pin--only thing that comes close is Eli's mod for Tron) are Jeff's speaker panel mod and MikeD's video mod. Not sure I see a reed switch on the bowl, which is a cool trick. Upgraded speakers and a powered sub really bring the sound to life if yours does not have this. Backbox lighting needs some help, as NPO pointed out.

#2348 10 days ago
Quoted from drfrightner:

Check out my Creature that comes with an authentic full sized Creature ... the game is totally decked out. Powder Coated, Color Screen, New Ramps, Creature Shooter, Every Mod known to man kind, side blade art, you name it working perfect and shopped.
What do you think?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good dude. Love the Creature and the theater stanchions and velvet ropes.

#2349 10 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Love the Creature and the theater stanchions and velvet ropes.

Looks cool, but I don't think that velvet rope is strong enough to hold back the Creature and keep him contained.
.
And I agree: you can't claim it has every Creature mod if you don't have the lit taillight speaker panel (or MikeD mod).

#2350 10 days ago

Anytime I don't see an MRS on the bowl - I weep (that's because I created it...but that's besides the point)

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