Dialed In
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Quoted from geoncic:I decided to go with ninjas. Mainly because I've seen a lot of feedback that says Dialed In is rough on balls and causes scratches and dings very quickly with carbon balls, which turns into a scratched playfield.
"People" are exaggerating. Keep your playfield waxed and carbon balls are just fine.
Quoted from mrgregb123:My man, do you think it's fair to claim people are making up stories that Dialed In is rough on carbon balls (as are many machines)
I did not say this. I said that it being rough on balls leading to scratch playfields is an exaggeration. If you keep your playfield waxed well, there's no problem with carbon balls, rough machine or not. THAT is what I said.
Quoted from Nepi23:Yesterday my right flipper started acting up weirdly. Almost like an emp strike would have hit it (but it was not a mode). The flipper did not stay up and on occassion did not correspond to me pressing the flipper button. I am sure something like this has happen before - anyone care to point me to a solution? Thanks!
Sounds like your flipper button switch is making intermittent contact. Lift the playfield and press the button while looking at the switch.
Also, check the connection to the flipper coil to make sure they're all on the pegs solidly.
Quoted from Damien:I'm curious to know what level you guys are setting yours at. My bubble is sitting just above the second line, and when I put my digital torpedo in the drain (so center is near the actual bubble level) it's showing 6.25 degrees.
In keeping with the theme 6.66.
Quoted from geoncic:So, I had a couple of other issues that I was wondering if anybody else has, and if there are any remedies:
1. When a ball drains, sometimes it will not fully go down the trough and trigger the opto. I will have to nudge the machine, and sometimes get a tilt warning.
2. If the ball does not have enough speed when going into the skill shot, it will not trigger, and I have to nudge the machine
3. Sometimes when the ball goes into the sim card slot, it will trigger the trap door sensor (Emoji, selfie, etc.)
My machine is set up just past the second bubble, and I am using ninja balls. The seem pretty smooth, have about 150 games on them, and they do not seem to be magnetized when I do the paperclip test. Should I wax the balls or the portions where they seem to be getting 'hung up' sometimes?
Thanks
For #1 it sounds like maybe the machine isn't level side to side or the balls are magnetized.
For #2 the wire on the switch needs to be adjusted so a slow ball can always trigger it. Using a wire switch there was a TERRIBLE design choice. It's butted up against stuff underneath and getting it adjusted perfectly is time consuming. Basically just bending and tweaking the wire trigger side to side and back and forward until it's just right. Once you get it right, it will stay, though. I was adjusting it on and off for about a month and after I got it right, it's stayed good for almost a year now.
Quoted from geoncic:I think it might be the coil/plunger now that you mention that. I'm glad to hear it can be adjusted. Thanks a ton, I'm going to check that out tonight.
That's great to hear about #2, I did not realize it was a wire sensor. Opto seems ideal there, but that's probably more $$. Thanks for the help. Great community here.
I think an opto was just a tougher fit. It's very tight in that area. Lots packed in.
Quoted from geoncic:Yeah, you're right. I just got done looking at it, and it's super tight.
I did find that the balls were slightly magnetized. They couldn't pick up a small paperclip, but they would pull a compass needle. I swapped them out with new and adjusted the wire switch and everything is working fine at the moment. I think I'm going to the a tumbler or vibration cleaner to try to polish and demagnetize the balls. I might even mess around with a degausser.
Or just use carbon steel balls and be done with the problem.
Quoted from JMK:So, after having the JJP scoop protectors installed for a while, I recently changed them to the Cliffy protectors (provided at no charge from JJP).
Wow, what a difference- night and day.
When I first installed the JJP phone scoop protector, it seemed to work well. Over time, the rejects got increasingly worse.
Even the SIM card scoop seems better with the Cliffy installed. I actually hit the shot a couple of times from the upper flipper following installation this evening.
Cliff has the most experience with these because he pioneered the product and has worked with it for WAY longer than anyone else. The dude's a genius - lots of engineering experience that isn't being tapped. Hopefully JJP works more closely with him while the playfield holes are being designed in the whitewoods - ditto the other manufacturers that aren't yet shipping with Cliffies from the factory. As you said, the difference is night and day. Props to JJP for being the first to ship their games with actual Cliffies from the factory.
Quoted from geoncic:I used carbon, but after 30 games they already had nicks in them and I had a few scuffs in the playfield, I even have a nick, barely noticeable, but I can feel it will my fingernail. I'm a little concerned with how they would affect the playfield long term.
After 200 plays with the ninjas, they still feel smooth. The magnetism is an issue though . It looks like ill have to spend a lot of $$ on balls, or figure a way to demagnetize the ninjas.
Or just wax your playfield more often and use carbon balls. Problem solved, money saved. We're running them on a route and haven't had any issues, but they get waxed religiously. Ninja balls are about cosmetics of the balls, period.
Quoted from geoncic:Where do you get yourcarbons from? Any advice on where I could get? How often do you swap them out, on average?
Pinball life? Marco? One of those. We bought a bunch, so it's been a while since we've needed more. 2x a year is the most often we swap balls, and usually it's once a year if the ball starts to look visibly messed up or feels rough. For us, waxing as a religion is the biggest secret to PF health.
Quoted from JayLar:Which wax would you recommend?
I use P21S Carnuba wax
https://www.amazon.com/P21S-12700W-Carnauba-Wax/dp/B002LOP5E4
This tub lasts quite a while. Put it on, then wipe it off with a shop cloth, then I buff it out with a soft wool polishing pad on a drill. Speeds up the job and makes the playfield FAST for the next 30 or so games. 
Quoted from colonel_caverne:Hi there,
This pin needs to be precisely set up to play well.
Sometimes my shooter rod works bad, hitting the ball on the top and whatever the strength the ball cant reach the playfield...
This sounds like your playfield bracket has "faded" and bent a little so the auto launcher sometimes drags on the shooter rod. The difference is a little as 1/8" bend in the right playfield bracket hook (down) OR a spacer between the underside of playfield and where the bracket bolts on. That will raise it back up again and the shooter rod won't have this issue. Hobbit had the same problem occasionally.
Quoted from mrgregb123:Or you could just unscrew the shooter rod assembly, move it where you want, and screw it back. 2 minute job. Should never ever need to bend the playfield hangers.
Well, that's right, you SHOULDN'T, but this is a case of the hangers BENDING DOWN (from playfield weight? too soft? dunno...), so you HAVE to do this when this happens because you can't move the shooter rod low enough to stop the auto launcher hood from dragging on it. If your playfield hanger has faded, moving the rod will NOT help. Been through this twice, once with Hobbit, and once with Dialed In (never with WoZ for some reason). Your solution will not work in this situation. The two solutions I recommended will. Third solution would be getting a new bracket from JJP, but that takes time.
Shooting this in your iphone slow motion video when it happens will make it clear what's happening and if this is the correct solution.
Quoted from Indusguys:Hey guys, recently purchased DI the previous owner didn't mention anything about the scratches on the play field is this normal for DO? I have games with 5000+ plays and nothing as bad as this. It is easy to see in the reflection of the light, but it is like that everywhere.
Have you waxed it and buffed it out since you got it?
Quoted from mrgregb123:I've never seen a Stern with chipping (though like older WMS games, some can have insert lifting) or scratching like that. It's all about proper surface prep and using the right clear coat. These guys haven't figured out yet, but I hope they do for the overall benefit of everyone buying these games, myself included.
In short, it's not you. It's the manufacturers not giving a care about the durability of their playfields.
The newer Stern playfields definitely chip. If they're going to do it, it will likely happen in the shooter lane first, but also possibly at the drop-in to the ball trough. Crap clear process.
Quoted from waldo34:Picking my Dialed In LE up next week. Has any one compiled a list of must buy mods?
Yes! Here it is:
Quoted from Ramjet:The ball on my skill shot was getting stuck on day one. I installed the cliffy and continued tweaking it but never got it right. I just took off the cliffy and it seems to be working great. That switch really doesn't need a cliffy, it's not a high impact area. I removed it using a plastic razor blade. Depending on how big your fingers are, you can just get the blade in there and pry it up, it was easy. If you need a plastic razor blade, pm me and I'll mail one out to you.
I didn't use the cliffy there - the only one I didn't use in the end. That particular switch is already a queenie bitch, and I didn't need more aggrivation dialing it in. Once I got it adjusted right without the cliffy it hasn't needed further adjustment, but getting it working 100% took weeks of tweaking and playing.
Quoted from moonduckie78:Having a minor issue on my DILE. Sometimes, left ramp shots & right orbit/ramp shots where the ball is travelling very fast will not register. Doesn't seem to happen when the ball is going slower......only on my fastest shots.
Should I just try bending those little metal arms on the microswitches a little bit inwards, towards the switch mechanism? They SEEM okay....but this is definitely happening a lot on my fast ramp shots. Annoying!
Yep. You just need to adjust the switch blades out a bit more so they make better/quicker contact. Same thing happened on the one here. Adjusting the blade fixed it.
Quoted from geoncic:Sometimes (maybe 1 out of 10) when the ball ejects out of the phone scoop it barely hits the left sling post and will go straight into the middle drain.
Has anybody else had this problem? It seems level, but I'm using a 24" level across the entire cabinet to set it up. I may need to get a better level.
What about coil strength?
Added today: Edit: right sling post
Added today: Edit: right sling post
Change coil strength one unit at a time and test and retest until you get it to eject consistently approx where you want it.
Quoted from Kevlar:Sounds stupid but try bending the scoop down, I've experienced the same problem. Over time the scoop lifts and the ball starts clipping the underside of the wireform from the right ramp to the right inlane, this deflects the ball enough that it catches the slingshot. It happens so fast you can't really see it. I've had to bend mine back down twice now, to me the metal just isn't thick enough to maintain its position or it should have been braced. You can literally just push it down with your thumb.
Yes, if the eject is too strong, it will do this. iphone with slo-mo recording is your friend if you're not sure this is happening. Bending it down is absolutely the fix, but probably reducing eject strength, too.
Quoted from mamemaster:Hey I just installed a chrome candy shooter with their external spring and now it's too weak to make the ramp shot. The upside it I get skillshots everytime now lol- but it feels like cheating.
Anyone have a suggestion for a stronger internal main spring? - I don't know the color system of the springs. Is orange the strongest?
NM found this on pinside from pinball life-- anyone upgrade to a stronger spring?
Spring tension from lowest to highest:
------------------------------------------
Blue (266-5001-05)
Green (266-5001-04)
Standard (10-148-1)
Orange (266-5001-07)
Purple (266-5001)
Red (10-148-2)
Thanks!
Are you sure the shooter tip isn't dragging on the auto launcher? Slo-mo it with an iphone and watch. This will cause too-slow ball launches, and it also happens when the playfield brackets on TH and DI sag.
Quoted from PanzerFreak:Good to hear. When you say "real Cliffys installed factory" are those the JJP Cliffy type protectors or did JJP install the official Cliffy protectors on your game at the factory? That would be awesome if they are offering the latter as an option.
Actual real cliffies, installed at the factory starting the end of Jan 2018. Haven't heard any chipping complaints since they made the switch, but the shooter lane cliffies are not included, so you need to contact cliff if you want that.
Quoted from mamemaster:Whelp my happy new phone fix was incredibly short lived. Upon start up to (my first time since I installed the new phone and video card) the colors are washed out and have a purple tint. I tried power cycling the machine and plugging and unplugging the vga to no effect.
While it now it at least boots each time I’m not thrilled about this new issue. I just reached back out to Stephen at JJP.
Has anyone with this color issue been able to resolve with a new phone?
This is my new replacement phone and video card I just installed on Sunday. My machine is on 1.52 as I got it NIB about a month ago.
Ugh.
Try pulling the bluetooth dongle and power cycling to rule out electrical interference.
Also, might want to check the temperature of the computer in the backbox (and make sure all three fans are working (video card, CPU, backbox). Overheating can cause this kind of issue with video cards.
It also could be a bad ground. Are you plugged into receptacles with 3 plug leads and the ground attached?
Quoted from fnosm:Your MEGA phone is amazing!
Put a VGA splitter on, and THAT'S the topper.
Quoted from PanzerFreak:Better then WOZ?! That's my favorite pin. Lol
I still think WoZ is JJPs best. DI LE next, then Hobbit. Who knows where Pirates will end up. I really hope they put it back in the development oven and swap release with Toy Story.
Quoted from Tranquilize:I dont' find that flipper power makes any difference with the sim shot. What makes a big difference is if you have the JJP protector on the sim shot or an authentic Cliffy. When I played a proto machine last year, it had no protector at all, and I could make the shot direct maybe 20% of the time. Mine has the JJP protector, and I make the shot direct maybe 5% of the time. I would imagine with a Cliffy it would balance somewhere in the middle at 12%. I would find this percentage acceptable, considering the value of the shot and the fact that flukes happen.
Yep, the Cliffy solution is the best. "So thin, nothing gets in the way of your enjoyment."
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Haha! I’m not bashing WOZ at all, I think that’s one of the greatest of all time. But I play DI way more, I absolutely find it more fun
Give it 5 years like WoZ.
Quoted from Vyzer2:I have to add my voice to DI. Out of all my pins, and some of them are keepers, DI is the best. A great combination of great rules, smooth shooting (except for sim hole), gizmos on the playfield, great lighting, attainable wizard mode, different types of modes, different mb's, sounds and just overall diversification of game play. This is a fun pin that doesn't seem to get old.
TWO attainable wizard modes - a lesser and the "real" one.
Quoted from BigT:Has anybody changed the servings on the dialed in inserts to have some of the letters already lit. If so how many and do you consider this cheating? The best I have been able to do has been 4 SIM cards. I am thinking of having the game start with 2 letters already lit.
Cheating. Don't do it. If you NEED the help, just change it so it "remembers" that you have a letter blinking and a SIM card available to collect from ball to ball in the settings. At least that way you're earning the letters.
Quoted from PanzerFreak:Has anyone installed the Dialed In Pingraffix blades on their game? They look pretty cool based on the pics.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/dialed-in-pinblades-for-jersey-jack-pinball
The lighted ones that animate for Attack from Mars also work in Dialed In thematically and look great.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/attack-from-mars-powerbladez
Quoted from msj2222:Thanks, would that be similar to the TOM basement door?
It's more like the one on Funhouse that works on a hinge. The ToM one goes straight up and down, like an elevator.
Quoted from PanzerFreak:My new Dialed In is now playing great except for one minor issue, a full plunge isn't getting the ball out of the shooter lane. I think I just need to move the shooter rod down a bit by adjusting the 3 bolts that hold the shooter rod to the bracket. The shooter rod is likely hitting towards the top of the ball versus the middle.
It is either a shooter rod adjustment OR the playfield brackets have "faded" (bent) a little, allowing the autolauncher to drag on the shooter rod tip. Dialed In and Hobbit both did this over time on us. WoZ never did. Dunno why.
The fix is easy, though. Bend the right bracket curve a little, OR you can put a thick washer between the bracket and the playfield where it screws to the underside. It doesn't need much - a 1/16" is probably enough. Having done both as I dealt with the issue on both machines (numerous times on TH, once on DI), I came to favor the washer method.
You can see if it's off-center shooter rod vs faded brackets causing rod drag on autolauncher by slo-mo filming a manual ball launch with your iphone.
Quoted from Damien:Who says this in 2018? Trump supporter I'm guessing?
No, that would be injuns. Totally different.
Quoted from colonel_caverne:I get the same problem with my shooter rod. I think I'll have to plane the wood to bring down the mechanism. Adding a washer does not work or not enough.
Now I can say it is not a surprise for me that a more complexe mech like 3 spinning discs on POTC does not work properly or enough reliable to be kept as JJP is not able to build/design a simple mech like trap door (they are still building pins with this issue). Either their testing process is bad or their engineers are bad...or both. And I do not tell you about all the little problems (mechs adjustments) that the game has at the exit of the factory, seriously ruining the experience of buying a Nib game.
Oh, no! Don't grind the wood down to fix this!
If you tried with washers, you just didn't use thick enough washers or you put them in the wrong place. They need to be between the playfield and the bracket, on the screw closest to the edge of the playfield. Stack a couple, it doesn't take much, and this is completely reversible, unlike grinding a playfield's wood.
Quoted from colonel_caverne:I’m not talking about grinding playfield’s wood but the cabinet, the house mech not drilled enough lower.
Sorry about my English, don’t know if I explain well what I would like to say
Grinding the cabinet or playfield should not be necessary. Take a picture of where you installed the washer(s). That's the best solution (and completely reversible).
Quoted from PinBuck:- I have a bubble in my apron sticker, right in the middle. There is something under it, I can't smooth it out.
I'd heat it gently with a blowdryer to lift it and get whatever hard material is underneath out.
Quoted from PinBuck:Thanks vireland. I gotta be honest, this freaks me out a little. I can see this turning out badly since I'll be doing it... lol.
Take a picture beforehand. Worse case scenario, you get an apron sticker under warranty.
Quoted from PanzerFreak:Oh no! Sorry to hear that. Thank goodness you refused delivery. My distributor uses R&L and it sounds like they have done a very good job shipping games. Maybe see if your distributor can use them for the replacement.
https://www.rlcarriers.com/
R&L is super inconsistent in my experience.
Quoted from romulusx:Right orbit that turns into ramp not registering.The rollover switch does when I roll a ball over it but the ramp switch later doesn’t. If you have multiball and you hit the right ramp nothing happens
Just adjust the switch arm out a bit more.
Quoted from romulusx:I went into switch test it’s #47 right ramp made and it doesn’t work in test either.Tried to manually activate with no luck
Well, that was easy. If all the wires are connected and it doesn't work, time to get a new switch.
Quoted from skondris:So, I've looked at the topics outlined in the TOC for this post and done a bit of searching, but haven't seen anything that appears related to my current issue. I have a DILE that won't start up anymore. :/ When I flip the switch to power it on, I can hear the fans turn on for a second, like normal, but then nothing. The displays don't turn on, nothing happens.
I checked all the fuses on the board in the backbox, and all are fine and seated tight as far as I can tell. Not finding any other set of fuses to check.
I believe it may be due to an old school outlet timer I had plugged it into - long story short, I had reason for it to be on 24/7 but wanted it to at least get reset on/off 1x nightly as I was having the issues where lights would get stuck on a color, etc.
I only had it on the timer for about a day and a half, and I believe it may have caused an electrical spike to the machine or something. :/
Any help is appreciated. I've submitted a ticket to JJP, but haven't heard back and it's been a couple of weeks, so thought I'd post up my issue here (if there's a better thread
I'd check power connections. I know that power cord can wiggle loose on the cabinet so it's connected, but not enough. Check that. Then open the computer box and make sure the connection to the power supply is good and see if the motherboard lights are on and if the cpu fan is spinning (separate from the backbox fan you likely are hearing).
I would also CALL Frank at JJP support, 732-364-9900 x 1222 - their ticket system sucks in my experience. A phone call is much better/faster. You shouldn't still be hanging on this with no contact for 2 weeks...
Quoted from Insanity199:I checked all connections and all is good down to opto boards.
On the right side, the opto is definitely in the hole and I saw hot glue on it (from factory). On the left side, the opto was farther back however, I could swear it was held on by two screws so it couldn’t move. I stuck my finger back there and it didn’t seem like it moved. Should the left side opto be IN the hole. If so, I will have to disassemble again tomorrow.
Move the plug to another connector on the Opto multi I/O board and see if it starts registering. That board can go bad, on one or more ports, too. The one we had on WoZ died.
Quoted from Insanity199:Nope, not the opto board. I swapped the scoop enter opto to the theater enter and the theater enter switch triggered when a ball went into the scoop. Problem definitely on the sensor side.
At least it's narrowed down a bit more now. Is this under warranty? Those optos are much cheaper to buy from digikey or the like than through JJP if you're paying for them.
Quoted from Insanity199:Had the machine since first weeks of January. So about 4 months. According to their warranty, stuff like that is only 30 days.
Like this? Can the original connector be salvaged and reused?
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/tt-electronics-optek-technology/OPB100Z/365-1628-ND/1636780
I'd give support a call. For only 4 months, I bet they'd cover it.
But if you buy the optos from Digikey, remember you need to get the molex plugs to crimp onto the raw wire so you can snap it into the opto connector. I happen to have that part number since I did it for WoZ and had to find out. Here's the link:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/794956-1/A99267CT-ND/1914140
Quoted from ralphs007:I have a question,how much would a new phone cost you,once your warranty expires?
With or without a 2 year contract?
Quoted from Insanity199:99-030032-00 Smartphone Assy 1 EA 224.99
Likely it's the LCD inside or the video card, both of which can be had for less if you get the part number and are handy.
Quoted from Insanity199:Do those only work with the connector on the opto board? The opto to the theater actually connects to an optical extension cable. That connector is much smaller than the one on the opto board.
I called and left a voicemail at lunchtime. Awaiting return call. Also filed online ticket for good measure.
Doubt there would be a problem, but I only have experience changing them out on WoZ so I can't say for sure. Pretty sure those are the same optos.
Quoted from JayLar:On my LE, sometimes the ball passes the trapdoor which opens (too late?) and then the ball rolls back down and gets caught above the trapdoor. I then have to wait for ball search which lowers the trapdoor. Is there a way to remedy this?
Pretty much needs to be fixed in software. It's been on the wishlist since last Summer. Hopefully the next version will address it. There are enough sensors for the game to know what happened and drop the trap door in that condition without having to wait for a ball search.
Quoted from Nokoro:Are people able to make a full left orbit on their machines? I sometimes can, but more often the ball ends up slowing down and going into the pops. Is that normal?
Look down your left orbit and make sure your trap door is laying flat. If it's not, it can take a lot of momentum from the ball.
Quoted from colonel_caverne:What is the average response time limit of the JJP tech support when a ticket is opened? Thanks
1 day to infinity. I just call.
Quoted from JayLar:Did some more testing on my theatre magnet today. In settings, it works a couple of times before returning to "cooling down" and not working anymore (regardless of value -80 to -120). Anyone else experience the same thing while testing in settings?
The magnet is flush with the playfield. My installation looks like attached photo, anything strange about it?
Unplug that plug in the foreground with the two black wires coming from the magnet coil and check the resistance of the magnet coil with a multimeter set to the Ohm setting. Sounds like you may have a failing coil.
Quoted from colonel_caverne:I got a response 2 days later.
Steve will order the complete trapdoor with the flat riveted. They were in inventory so he said it will take a while.
That was 20 days ago.
I asked him an update 4 days ago all the more as I have now a drone down and no response.
Why so long? Why this game has so many issues?
I wouldn't say Dialed In has more issues than comparably complex games, it's just pinball, and the more complex the mechanical action and the more of it there is, the more likely something doesn't work right or at all. Check out the Iron Maiden (Prem/LE) issues thread, that's a much less complex game that has a ton of issues out of the box, way more that I ever experienced on Dialed In, IMO.
Quoted from colonel_caverne:I have had a quick answer at the beginning of the month. I must have a new trapdoor but they were in inventory so he explained me that would take a while. I am asking for update. No reply.
I think each guy must stay at his own place. Maybe I will email jack but it is not his job, there is a support service for these questions.
Thanks buddy for the advice
You can also get some pretty quick answers by joining the JJP google group. Lots of JJPers on that and many (including Jack) often jump in with answers.
Quoted from colonel_caverne:Still no answer. I wrote to jack this morning. Maybe I would try google group.
I’m just the case#2468. Don’t know how many they sold but it seems everybody get an issue with his game.
It's private so you have to ask Jen to get in. Email her and request access [email protected]
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I am dying to know what you consider a deep game, if this is not an example of one?!
For a contemporary comparison (they were released not far apart) Houdini is WAY deeper than Dialed In. Way.
Quoted from avspin:[quoted image]
Spiral-bound? Yuck. Perfectbound would not have cost that much and would be a lot more practical long-term.
Quoted from ralphs007:My replacement phone,has more orange in it than my first phone did.I replaced my first phone,because every once in awhile,I had to restart the game,because the screen was blank. Now I'm having this issue with my replacement phone.If it doesn't get any worse,I'm okay with having to restart the game, every once in awhile. As far as orange or red,I don't care,as long as the thing works.
It makes me wonder if the problem is with my machine,and not the phone?
Sounds more like the video card than the phone.
Quoted from PinBuck:Trust me, every one of us that upgrades their CPUs draws a huge smile in New Jersey.
I dunno. They weren't super-happy when I gave up after waiting for a fix for their WoZ 6.xx linux kernel lockup bug after 2 years and just posted how to replace the stock ECLE motherboard with a newer MSI with a different chipset that fixed the problem (by bypassing the buggy chipset code). Their fix for WoZ was finally posted like a week or so later - after NOTHING for 2 years (and pretending like they'd never heard of the problem to some other operators on pinside that called for support on it).
Quoted from altan:Still cannot believe how incredible Dialed In is!
But nothing's perfect. I've had the ball get temporarily stuck in the playfield slot where the Quantum Electric Guy slides back and forth. Ball hunt fixes it (guy moves to the left and eventually pushes the ball out), but certainly impacts the game's flow!
Is this just a fact of life for Dialed In?
It was as long as we had the game. Didn't happen a LOT, but it happened enough to be annoying.
Quoted from Reznnate:I don't like any of the JJP themes. But I'd say get POTC if you can. It's brilliant.
The correct answer.
If you can deal with the brittle playfield on Dialed In, you'll be fine with the jjPotC issues, and it's a MUCH better game than Dialed In over time.
That said, Deadpool or Iron Maiden Premium are great choices, too.
Quoted from Rob_G:I think saying the clearcoat is brittle is stretching things. Clearcoat and wood are always going to eventually loose when a steel ball slams into them, especially on edges like scoops. Some games just fair better (or worse) than others because of the scoop design.
Rob
No, Dialed In clear was brittle (at least the first run) for sure. We had one and the clear at the SIM hole lasted less than 50 plays. That's brittle.
And it wasn't just a problem at the SIM hole. But the whole thing was weird/unnecessary after Mirco farted out rock-solid Hobbit playfields for the whole run. They shouldn't have tried to mess with that success, because it's been all downhill from there.
Quoted from Shredso:Do you guys think an i5-3570 would be a worthwhile upgrade?
You want LGA1150 processors.
To upgrade WoZ, I went with
MSI/H81M-P33
I3-4170 with a 5191 passmark
These are other LGA1150 processors and their passmark scores (higher is better):
I3-4130 @ 3.4Ghz 4803
I3-4150 @ 3.5Ghz 4899 $129 - Newegg
I3-4160 @ 3.6Ghz 5047
I3-4170 @ 3.7Ghz 5191 $58 - Newegg
I5-4430 @ 3.0Ghz 6339
I5-4440 @ 3.1Ghz 6517
I5-4460 @ 3.2GhZ 6720 $149 - Newegg
I5-4570 @ 3.2GhZ 7153
I5-4590 @ 3.3Ghz 7338 $178 - Newegg
WoZ is noticibly snappier with lower loading times after the MB/CPU upgrade, but I don't know where the threshold for Dialed In is to get rid of the video lag. I think the low end of the i5 or the high end of the i3 would be enough.
Quoted from NightTrain:ltg I just got a HUO DILE set up and installed 1.73. Problem is...I didn't check to see if 1.6 was already installed. Now it won't boot....what to do now?
Download 1.60 here:
http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/di/DialedIn-v01.60.iso
(Full install instructions are here: http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/general/install-full/)
put it on a USB using the ubootnetin utility, plug the USB into the machine, and turn it on.
When it finishes updating, reboot to make sure it works again, then do the delta update to 1.73.
Quoted from Tranquilize:I reformatted mine each time. Still the same issue...
How did you reformat it? Fat32, ExFat, or NTFS?
Quoted from Tranquilize:Fat 32. I think the issue that I'm having goes beyond the flash drive. If the drive isn't working, I shouldn't see "operating system not found" or the Ubuntu boot screen. Skymont appears to have the same issue.
I wonder if the Linux version was changed between those versions and now it doesn't recognize that USB drive. Is it USB 2.0 or USB 3.0? The motherboard has 4x USB 2.0 ports and 2x USB 3.0 ports. Which one is the USB extension cord that runs to the front of the machine plugged into?
Quoted from Tranquilize:I am trying to update from 1.57 to 1.60 so that I can then do the delta update. I have followed the instructions from the JJP website, and I have reread the instructions several times.
I have used this flash drive to do previous full and delta updates. I do not use it for anything else, so it just sits in the coin box. I'll get another stick tomorrow, but I'm almost positive it's not the stick. The game is accessing the stick each time. It's just not liking what it sees.
When you formatted it, did you do a full or quick format? If quick, maybe try a full?
Quoted from NightTrain:Hey all. New owner of LE #313 here. Super fun game so far. I've got a couple questions though.
My game came with a cliffy over the SIM hole. Is this the JJP protector or the actual cliffy? See pics.
It also came with other cliffies and a mantis for the phone scoop. Are these the new cliffies? The old JJP protectors? What is that little stubby cliffy?
Last question - Is there supposed to be a rubber on the left post by the SIM hole. See pic below.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You have a mix of actual cliffies and a crappy JJP-designed protector abortion in that picture. JJP tried to do their own protectors and failed before putting actual cliffies on the machines. Looks like you have some of both.
These are what the real cliffies set looks like for dialed in (jjp did not include all cliffy protector pieces from the factory once they started adding them):
https://www.passionforpinball.com/WIP/Dialed-In-Complete001.jpg
Quoted from Kingpin22:I noticed a little wrinkling on my DILE cabinet, while I was playing one on location I noticed that there was a small cushion between the leg and the cab on there pinball machine. The operator said this came like that from the factory, the Willie Wonka also had this. I haven’t seen anything posted in this thread about it and want to prevent further damage. Does anyone know anything about this?[quoted image]
The legs have a little negative curve that points in toward the cabinet and makes contact with the decal. Pretty sure JJP added those somewhere in the run (our Dialed In from very early in the original run did not have them) because of issues with this. I'd get the felt or something else to make a little more of a standoff, or it will get worse.
Quoted from SilverWings:I think it was Butch Peel who told me last TPF those were what they call the "dog hair" type protectors that they put on customer's pins, but never on their own. The JJP cabinets all have metal plate spacers between the legs and cabinet, so the Dog Hair type cushions really aren't needed. I took mine off when I got it home...
The metal plate spacers aren't *quite* thick enough to keep the leg off the decal (at least not on the original run). Check the back legs, especially. If they haven't changed them, they are making contact with the decal in about a pea-sized area, which is plenty to cause wrinkling, pulling, tearing over time.
Quoted from Kingpin22:It’s needed, this the wrinkle starting to appear on my game. That’s why I was looking at the one on route and saw the cushion and was surprised the operator said it was factory and came with them. I was checking to see if this is a problem with other DILE, I didn’t over tighten the leg bolts when I put on the legs.[quoted image]
It's a problem with the design of the legs or the thinness of the standoffs, not your tightening. Thicker standoffs would solve this. Ignoring it will make it worse over time.
Quoted from NightTrain:Dumb question here. Recently picked up this dialed in LE and the plastic protectors are mounted on TOP of the plastics. Never seen that before. I’m assuming these are installed incorrectly and should be UNDER the actual plastics...right?[quoted image]
That's right. Under.
Quoted from NightTrain:You mean the picture is right? Or I’m right as in they are installled incorrectly and should be under the actual plastics?
Oh, sorry. Brevity is not always the answer. Yes, you're right. It's installed wrong. The clear protector should be under the screened plastic, sticking out aroung the edges of them.
Quoted from FatPanda:Get the mantis protector. Much better with no rejects due to the lip of the cliffy style protector. No holidays until the end of November here in the States.
Mantis style one won't protect the clear at the lip from chipping, which is not an obscure possibility on Dialed In's clear. The actual Cliffy protector that JJP eventually included is the way to go and doesn't reject like crazy like the terrible knockoff JJP tried to do themselves. Worth the effort to install the JJP-provided Cliffy.
Quoted from gliebig:I've submitted two tickets over the past 3months with JJP regarding my POTC and have heard nothing. I guess they have enough new customers and don't care about repeat buyers.
I just found out that Frank isn't there anymore so it all seems to fall to Steve for support, which has to be CRAZY. I would definitely call and not use the ticketing system.
Quoted from FatPanda:I'll point out the obvious that on my game, there isnt chipping on my phone scoop. Similarly, I have a Mantis style protector on my XMLE without any wear at the Blackbird scoop. Same style of protector. Of course, It's your game and you can choose to use what you please. IME, the Mantis style protector does a fine job with 0% of rejection due to the protector itself.
It works until it doesn't. With the chipping we got around the SIM hole within 50 plays, I wouldn't risk leaving the area around an edge exposed in Dialed In with a mantis-style protector. That particular machine seemed (seems?) to have especially brittle clear. Dunno if that was addressed in later runs, though...
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:Folks, my DI magnets mylar is now all mashed up, what should I do?
Leave it as it.
Take it off.
Replace it.[quoted image][quoted image]
Yeah, that should have never been covered. It should have been a mylar donut with a hole in the middle. I carefully cut the one out we had with an x-acto and pulled it off so this didn't happen. You should probably do the same. Leave the rest of the mylar on the PF around it, though.
Quoted from Vabeachrunner4:Any “harm” in not removing it as in potential wear or bubbling around the magnet? Or is it just more of a localized problem per se? Also, once it is worn as posted above, would it start to affect the magnet and it’s play?
Better to remove it from the post (and clean off any goo residue left behind) as it will eventually affect the ball grabbing and throwing.
Quoted from BENETNATH:I really love my Dialed In, but there is one thing that is bugging me so much : ball stuck behind the moving guy. It happens 2-3 times per game, and I have to wait for a ball search..
Did anyone face the same issue and find a trick ?
I didn't have the machine long enough to get around to making it, but I always planned to 3D print a curved piece that would connect to the guy by his feet and hopefully guide the ball away from getting stuck there.
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