(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club


By goren1818

2 years ago



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  • 9,055 posts
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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Mageek
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#3551 1 year ago

Hi Owners!

sorry if this has been asked before :

I covered my camera cause i'm f'in ugly as shit , how does this affect Lottery Frenzy ?

i never get anywhere in the mode and am not sure the correct way to rectify what seems to be a problem of me covering the camera.

thanks

ez

#3552 1 year ago

You'll have to uncover the camera so it can see you wave. Have you tried makeup?

#3553 1 year ago
Quoted from ezeltmann:

Hi Owners!
sorry if this has been asked before :
I covered my camera cause i'm f'in ugly as shit , how does this affect Lottery Frenzy ?
i never get anywhere in the mode and am not sure the correct way to rectify what seems to be a problem of me covering the camera.
thanks
ez

You need to wave in front of the camera to start the scoring, even though the mode will continue. So you might want to uncover the camera a bit

#3554 1 year ago

Just wear a plague doctor mask.

#3555 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Definitely too low. Adjust it. I usually use a straight edge to make the flippers parallel to the guide rails, but DI has that hexagon, which makes it really easy. Adjust so that the bat is just touching that left point. Done!

I found that by doing a fresh 1.50 complete install (fresh everything, redownloaded it, different usd drive etc...) then the 1.52 delta helped to correct my phone issues.

#3556 1 year ago

Hey I just installed a chrome candy shooter with their external spring and now it's too weak to make the ramp shot. The upside it I get skillshots everytime now lol- but it feels like cheating.

Anyone have a suggestion for a stronger internal main spring? - I don't know the color system of the springs. Is orange the strongest?

NM found this on pinside from pinball life-- anyone upgrade to a stronger spring?

Spring tension from lowest to highest:
------------------------------------------
Blue (266-5001-05)
Green (266-5001-04)
Standard (10-148-1)
Orange (266-5001-07)
Purple (266-5001)
Red (10-148-2)

Thanks!

#3557 1 year ago
Quoted from mamemaster:

Hey I just installed a chrome candy shooter with their external spring and now it's too weak to make the ramp shot. The upside it I get skillshots everytime now lol- but it feels like cheating.
Anyone have a suggestion for a stronger internal main spring? - I don't know the color system of the springs. Is orange the strongest?
NM found this on pinside from pinball life-- anyone upgrade to a stronger spring?
Spring tension from lowest to highest:
------------------------------------------
Blue (266-5001-05)
Green (266-5001-04)
Standard (10-148-1)
Orange (266-5001-07)
Purple (266-5001)
Red (10-148-2)
Thanks!

Are you sure the shooter tip isn't dragging on the auto launcher? Slo-mo it with an iphone and watch. This will cause too-slow ball launches, and it also happens when the playfield brackets on TH and DI sag.

#3558 1 year ago
Quoted from mamemaster:

Hey I just installed a chrome candy shooter with their external spring and now it's too weak to make the ramp shot. The upside it I get skillshots everytime now lol- but it feels like cheating.
Anyone have a suggestion for a stronger internal main spring? - I don't know the color system of the springs. Is orange the strongest?
NM found this on pinside from pinball life-- anyone upgrade to a stronger spring?
Spring tension from lowest to highest:
Thanks!

I had the same issue and found that the problem is the spring which is on the knob side of the cabinet is too long with the Chrome Candy knob.
The JJP knob is hollowed out but the Chrome Candy knob isn't. Get a shorter spring for the outside and you will be fine.

#3559 1 year ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I had the same issue and found that the problem is the spring which is on the knob side of the cabinet is too long with the Chrome Candy knob.
The JJP knob is hollowed out but the Chrome Candy knob isn't. Get a shorter spring for the outside and you will be fine.

Ironically the said to order their external spring...hm....thanks!

#3560 1 year ago

If you tell her about the issue she’ll send you the external spring at no charge I think.

#3561 1 year ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I found that by doing a fresh 1.50 complete install (fresh everything, redownloaded it, different usd drive etc...) then the 1.52 delta helped to correct my phone issues.

Were your issues similar to mine? Mine has the wrong colours, usually more yellow than it should be because it's missing the red. Sometimes the phone blanks and returns or stays blank. I can fix this issue every time by unplugging the VGA and reseating it. After I do this, it will show correct colours etc.

This did start happening after 1.50, so I have always assumed it to be software related. I did reinstall 1.50 several times, then updated to 1.52 with no difference. Actually, after the reinstall, the phone is perfect, but once I power off the game and boot it, the colour issue is there.

As I understand, your process was to reinstall 1.50 then immediately 1.52? I could try this again.

#3562 1 year ago

Sounds like my issue. Always fixed by unplugging and replugging the vga cable. When I did the reinstallation, (I did it several times) my problem, while still the wrong colors, changed. Meaning the colors changed, they were still wrong just different kind of wrong than before the reinstall. Then I tried another phone (replacement number 2) and I haven't had an issue with it since.

#3563 1 year ago

My phone issues have been since day one with the original code and has remained the same after updating, sometimes changing colors and going darker but more often just turning off/goinh blank and staying blank. The theater is also blank most of the times but sometimes it'll work on and off randomly. Adjusting cables does nothing I'm hoping a new card will fix this.

#3564 1 year ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

My phone issues have been since day one with the original code and has remained the same after updating, sometimes changing colors and going darker but more often just turning off/goinh blank and staying blank. The theater is also blank most of the times but sometimes it'll work on and off randomly. Adjusting cables does nothing I'm hoping a new card will fix this.

I'm having a similar issue on the theater screen. The colors on the screen are a dark yellow, then after several minutes of play, they appear normal. I have to remove the theater to remove the mylar from the magnet. Maybe it's a loose connection, but I doubt it. It's a great game, but man it requires a lot of adjustments.

#3565 1 year ago
Quoted from knobstone:

It's a great game, but man it requires a lot of adjustments.

I have been following this thread closely and playing a lot of DI on location - really love the game and leaning toward getting it but man - really does seem like a ton of adjustments and fixes. I know all games need adjustments (have had a decent amount on my AFMr). I do love the game and will probably eventually get it so thank you to everyone taking the time to post your issues and resolutions - extremely helpful. I read the AFMr threads religiously before and when I received my game and these postings really help a lot!

#3566 1 year ago

72 pages - feel like I just finished a novel. Heaps of useful info - thanks to all - made a heap of useful tweaks and fixes to my DILE.

Tonight the ball got tangled up in wires on the side ramp (the wires (red arrow) run to the switch on the ramp above). I’m not sure where the wires should be though - they don’t seem long enough to reach the clip In the ramp above (blue arrow) but I can’t see what will stop them dropping down in the way of the side ramp again. Can anyone advise?

6D50DE68-AA7B-4B24-93CB-618742853A67 (resized).jpeg

#3567 1 year ago

I don't know the answer but as you've posted such a good photo of that switch I'd like to add that it's not in an ideal position ( by design ), it's too close to the ramp. A fast ball can clear or semi clear it and not make the switch therefore not award the ramp shot, I've had it happen plenty of times. Dial the flipper power down you say? doesn't matter, you still get a fast shot now and then when hit on the fly or a rebound.

#3568 1 year ago
Quoted from dmj1977:

72 pages - feel like I just finished a novel. Heaps of useful info - thanks to all - made a heap of useful tweaks and fixes to my DILE.
Tonight the ball got tangled up in wires on the side ramp (the wires (red arrow) run to the switch on the ramp above). I’m not sure where the wires should be though - they don’t seem long enough to reach the clip In the ramp above (blue arrow) but I can’t see what will stop them dropping down in the way of the side ramp again. Can anyone advise?

I wrote about this long long time ago... i rerouted mine bc i didnt want them getting hit. Ill check what i did when i get home

#3569 1 year ago

I used a,extra ziptie on the wireform and also tucked it between the ramps20180417_132958 (resized).jpg

#3570 1 year ago
Quoted from hockeymag8:

I have been following this thread closely and playing a lot of DI on location - really love the game and leaning toward getting it but man - really does seem like a ton of adjustments and fixes. I know all games need adjustments (have had a decent amount on my AFMr). I do love the game and will probably eventually get it so thank you to everyone taking the time to post your issues and resolutions - extremely helpful. I read the AFMr threads religiously before and when I received my game and these postings really help a lot!

It doesn't need that much adjusting, and it's absolutely wonderful that you can adjust coils etc. If you buy a DI, you should do the following:

- Record the factory coil adjustments when you first turn on the game. The factory adjusts the coils so that the game plays well. Take a picture of the coil strengths.
- Play the game and make sure the theatre throws the ball back with pretty good velocity when it's supposed to. If not, adjust. See other threads on this.
- Your phone eject will likely be too powerful. Lower the coil strength until the ball burps out and hits the slingshot. Then add more strength until it lands on the flipper nicely.
- Lower the power of the left flipper to save wear and tear on the phone scoop and surrounding area. Lower it until you can't make the right ramp and raise it up until you easily can with pretty good velocity. This should prevent a lot of the air balls from this flipper.
- Add some oil/grease to the underside of the arm diverter, on the flat metal surface that the oblong rotator rubs against. It is metal on metal and grinds a dust over time. A LITTLE oil/grease helps with this.
- Cut the mylar around the theatre magnet. I haven't done this yet as the ball is cutting it for me. It likely won't be as smooth this way though :\

I always expect adjustments with any machine, and I'm VERY happy that JJP has embraced this. The mylar is a pain, but the rest is great!

#3571 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

It doesn't need that much adjusting, and it's absolutely wonderful that you can adjust coils etc. If you buy a DI, you should do the following:
- Record the factory coil adjustments when you first turn on the game. The factory adjusts the coils so that the game plays well. Take a picture of the coil strengths.
- Play the game and make sure the theatre throws the ball back with pretty good velocity when it's supposed to. If not, adjust. See other threads on this.
- Your phone eject will likely be too powerful. Lower the coil strength until the ball burps out and hits the slingshot. Then add more strength until it lands on the flipper nicely.
- Lower the power of the left flipper to save wear and tear on the phone scoop and surrounding area. Lower it until you can't make the right ramp and raise it up until you easily can with pretty good velocity. This should prevent a lot of the air balls from this flipper.
- Add some oil/grease to the underside of the arm diverter, on the flat metal surface that the oblong rotator rubs against. It is metal on metal and grinds a dust over time. A LITTLE oil/grease helps with this.
- Cut the mylar around the theatre magnet. I haven't done this yet as the ball is cutting it for me. It likely won't be as smooth this way though :\
I always expect adjustments with any machine, and I'm VERY happy that JJP has embraced this. The mylar is a pain, but the rest is great!

This is awesome - thanks a lot for posting!! Much appreciated!!

#3572 1 year ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

Thanks for the info, I am indeed concerned with quality of the clear coat, I don't mean to dredge up this topic again. I am mostly concerned with what my play field will look like down the road. I will make sure to keep a good coat of Wax on it, hopefully saving me from replacing the PF in a couple years. Not sure why JJP doesn't use the same clear coat as TH and WOZ. My TH is still in immaculate condition after nearly 1000 plays.

I'm considering buying a NIB Dialed In LE and I'm interested in knowing as well if clear coat chipping is still an issue on the latest games. I have a Hobbit as well and like you said no issues with clear chipping on it even without Cliffy protectors.

#3573 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

I'm considering buying a NIB Dialed In LE and I'm interested in knowing as well if clear coat chipping is still an issue on the latest games. I have a Hobbit as well and like you said no issues with clear chipping on it even without Cliffy protectors.

Haven’t seen any issues on mine, build Jan 2018, full real cliffys installed factory.

#3574 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Haven’t seen any issues on mine, build Jan 2018, full real cliffys installed factory.

Good to hear. When you say "real Cliffys installed factory" are those the JJP Cliffy type protectors or did JJP install the official Cliffy protectors on your game at the factory? That would be awesome if they are offering the latter as an option.

#3575 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

I'm considering buying a NIB Dialed In LE and I'm interested in knowing as well if clear coat chipping is still an issue on the latest games.....

"Fixed" Only because they covered them

-1
#3576 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

I'm considering buying a NIB Dialed In LE and I'm interested in knowing as well if clear coat chipping is still an issue on the latest games. I have a Hobbit as well and like you said no issues with clear chipping on it even without Cliffy protectors.

The clear was never really a issue.... the sim scoop design was the issue and was prone to chipping without protection.

#3577 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Good to hear. When you say "real Cliffys installed factory" are those the JJP Cliffy type protectors or did JJP install the official Cliffy protectors on your game at the factory? That would be awesome if they are offering the latter as an option.

Real cliffys used after first of the year builds i believe

#3578 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

The clear was never really a issue.... the sim scoop design was the issue and was prone to chipping without protection.

And the phone.

#3579 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

And the phone.

It never really had a issue actually bc of the bevel on the sides. I played a long time without a cliffy and no noticable damage occurred. Reguardless none of this matters now bc all pins have protectors.

#3580 1 year ago

The issue, to me, is the old protectors, which are still in my machine. They are sharp and create pretty good scratches on the balls. Then the balls scratch the playfield near the flippers. These scratches are very, very thin and could easily be buffed away. The clear is thick, so you don't have to worry about it. Look how thin the clear is on old W/B machines. They have scratches too, but you often can't see them because of the thin clear. It's not an issue at all, but owners of pins are like pixel peeping photographers: they seek perfection where perfection is simply not possible. It's a pinball machine. The playfield will scratch and dent from the metal balls.

Authentic cliffys will help keep the balls from scratching so heavily; I'm going to contact JJP to see if they'll send me a set as I hear they are installing them now at the factory. In the end, the clear on DI is thicker and clearer, which is great.

#3581 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

It never really had a issue actually bc of the bevel on the sides. .

Pretty sure I have some chipping on mine.

#3582 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Good to hear. When you say "real Cliffys installed factory" are those the JJP Cliffy type protectors or did JJP install the official Cliffy protectors on your game at the factory? That would be awesome if they are offering the latter as an option.

“Real Cliffys” meaning not the JJP “cliffy type” protectors, they are the thin ones from Cliff Rinear himself

#3583 1 year ago

The chipping isn't simply due to the sharp edges at the SIM hole lane. The whole clear coat is very fragile and chips easily. You should never have to cliffy an outhole that's 2/3 the way up the playfield when used in a home environment. But that's how it is with DI. If you don't protect the phone hole, it will look like sh*t after less than 500 plays.

#3584 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Good to hear. When you say "real Cliffys installed factory" are those the JJP Cliffy type protectors or did JJP install the official Cliffy protectors on your game at the factory? That would be awesome if they are offering the latter as an option.

Actual real cliffies, installed at the factory starting the end of Jan 2018. Haven't heard any chipping complaints since they made the switch, but the shooter lane cliffies are not included, so you need to contact cliff if you want that.

#3585 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Actual real cliffies, installed at the factory starting the end of Jan 2018. Haven't heard any chipping complaints since they made the switch, but the shooter lane cliffies are not included, so you need to contact cliff if you want that.

Oh wow, that's great to hear! Thanks. Are the Cliffys included from the factory for the phone, SIM card and skill shot?

Update: Found out its sim card and phone scoop based on info from JJP's site

#3586 1 year ago

Whelp my happy new phone fix was incredibly short lived. Upon start up to (my first time since I installed the new phone and video card) the colors are washed out and have a purple tint. I tried power cycling the machine and plugging and unplugging the vga to no effect.

While it now it at least boots each time I’m not thrilled about this new issue. I just reached back out to Stephen at JJP.

Has anyone with this color issue been able to resolve with a new phone?

This is my new replacement phone and video card I just installed on Sunday. My machine is on 1.52 as I got it NIB about a month ago.

Ugh.

#3587 1 year ago
Quoted from mamemaster:

Whelp my happy new phone fix was incredibly short lived. Upon start up to (my first time since I installed the new phone and video card) the colors are washed out and have a purple tint. I tried power cycling the machine and plugging and unplugging the vga to no effect.
While it now it at least boots each time I’m not thrilled about this new issue. I just reached back out to Stephen at JJP.
Has anyone with this color issue been able to resolve with a new phone?
This is my new replacement phone and video card I just installed on Sunday. My machine is on 1.52 as I got it NIB about a month ago.
Ugh.

I wonder if this is a software issue at this point? Under a full install of 1.5, before going to 1.52, does it still have the issue?

#3588 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

I wonder if this is a software issue at this point? Under a full install of 1.5, before going to 1.52, does it still have the issue?

I know many people that have 1.52 with no issues including myself. Very strange issue for the few people with it tho.

#3589 1 year ago
Quoted from mamemaster:

Whelp my happy new phone fix was incredibly short lived. Upon start up to (my first time since I installed the new phone and video card) the colors are washed out and have a purple tint. I tried power cycling the machine and plugging and unplugging the vga to no effect.
While it now it at least boots each time I’m not thrilled about this new issue. I just reached back out to Stephen at JJP.
Has anyone with this color issue been able to resolve with a new phone?
This is my new replacement phone and video card I just installed on Sunday. My machine is on 1.52 as I got it NIB about a month ago.
Ugh.

Try pulling the bluetooth dongle and power cycling to rule out electrical interference.

Also, might want to check the temperature of the computer in the backbox (and make sure all three fans are working (video card, CPU, backbox). Overheating can cause this kind of issue with video cards.

It also could be a bad ground. Are you plugged into receptacles with 3 plug leads and the ground attached?

#3590 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

I wonder if this is a software issue at this point? Under a full install of 1.5, before going to 1.52, does it still have the issue?

My phone performed flawlessly until I updated to 1.50. Then it never displayed colors correctly, even when I went back to 1.32 or whatever the previous version was. I personally think it's a software issue that is only affecting certain machines.

#3591 1 year ago

My phone and theater issues have been there since before the update

#3592 1 year ago
Quoted from mamemaster:

Whelp my happy new phone fix was incredibly short lived. Upon start up to (my first time since I installed the new phone and video card) the colors are washed out and have a purple tint. I tried power cycling the machine and plugging and unplugging the vga to no effect.
While it now it at least boots each time I’m not thrilled about this new issue. I just reached back out to Stephen at JJP.
Has anyone with this color issue been able to resolve with a new phone?
This is my new replacement phone and video card I just installed on Sunday. My machine is on 1.52 as I got it NIB about a month ago.
Ugh.

Having this issue on the theater screen. Colors are a dark yellow, then after several minutes of play colors appear normal. Reseated VGA cable on both the theater and to the video card, no change. Suspect that this is a software issue. Game has the latest code. Looking forward to another code update and printed manual.

#3593 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

It doesn't need that much adjusting, and it's absolutely wonderful that you can adjust coils etc. If you buy a DI, you should do the following:
- Record the factory coil adjustments when you first turn on the game. The factory adjusts the coils so that the game plays well. Take a picture of the coil strengths.
- Play the game and make sure the theatre throws the ball back with pretty good velocity when it's supposed to. If not, adjust. See other threads on this.
- Your phone eject will likely be too powerful. Lower the coil strength until the ball burps out and hits the slingshot. Then add more strength until it lands on the flipper nicely.
- Lower the power of the left flipper to save wear and tear on the phone scoop and surrounding area. Lower it until you can't make the right ramp and raise it up until you easily can with pretty good velocity. This should prevent a lot of the air balls from this flipper.
- Add some oil/grease to the underside of the arm diverter, on the flat metal surface that the oblong rotator rubs against. It is metal on metal and grinds a dust over time. A LITTLE oil/grease helps with this.
- Cut the mylar around the theatre magnet. I haven't done this yet as the ball is cutting it for me. It likely won't be as smooth this way though :\
I always expect adjustments with any machine, and I'm VERY happy that JJP has embraced this. The mylar is a pain, but the rest is great!

To be clear with my previous post, yes there are adjustments needed to be made. Less so on the newer builds of DI. But nothing major, nor time consuming. Removing the mylar from both the theater magnet and drone magnet should not take more than an hour. All you need is an exacto knife, and goo gone to remove the adhesive from both magnets. I used a q-tip dipped in goo gone to remove the glue from both magnets, and removed the the theater magnet from the bottom of the playfield. Saved a lot of time, as you do not have to remove the theater.

Removing the mylar from the magnets makes a major difference with the performance of the magnets.

#3594 1 year ago
Quoted from knobstone:

To be clear with my previous post, yes there are adjustments needed to be made. Less so on the newer builds of DI. But nothing major, nor time consuming. Removing the mylar from both the theater magnet and drone magnet should not take more than an hour. All you need is an exacto knife, and goo gone to remove the adhesive from both magnets. I used a q-tip dipped in goo gone to remove the glue from both magnets, and removed the the theater magnet from the bottom of the playfield. Saved a lot of time, as you do not have to remove the theater.
Removing the mylar from the magnets makes a major difference with the performance of the magnets.

This is the one adjustment that is harder to digest. Have heard of putting extra Mylar on games......never taking it off. Any chance cutting these pieces out would have a negative impact? Seems they would have put it on for a reason. Thank you!

#3595 1 year ago
Quoted from knobstone:

To be clear with my previous post, yes there are adjustments needed to be made. Less so on the newer builds of DI. But nothing major, nor time consuming. Removing the mylar from both the theater magnet and drone magnet should not take more than an hour. All you need is an exacto knife, and goo gone to remove the adhesive from both magnets. I used a q-tip dipped in goo gone to remove the glue from both magnets, and removed the the theater magnet from the bottom of the playfield. Saved a lot of time, as you do not have to remove the theater.
Removing the mylar from the magnets makes a major difference with the performance of the magnets.

With the mylar removed around the magnet core isn't there a risk of chipping? Chipping around the magnet core of Metallica is very common if mylar hasn't been put down around it. When I owned a Metallica pro I put a square of mylar over the magnet core / around it then cut out the area around the core, never had an issue.

#3596 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

With the mylar removed around the magnet core isn't there a risk of chipping? Chipping around the magnet core of Metallica is very common if mylar hasn't been put down around it. When I owned a Metallica pro I put a square of mylar over the magnet core / around it then cut out the area around the core, never had an issue.

We're talking about removing the mylar on the magnet core itself, not the surrounding playfield.

#3597 1 year ago
Quoted from hockeymag8:

This is the one adjustment that is harder to digest. Have heard of putting extra Mylar on games......never taking it off. Any chance cutting these pieces out would have a negative impact? Seems they would have put it on for a reason. Thank you!

the reason to put it on as it is, is its easier to put on a solid piece. Putting on one with a hole would take more time to line up perfectly.

#3598 1 year ago

Stop worrying about little non existent issue's and buy the dam.pin if u like it. All new production ones sld have most things worked out... heck mine made in june has been amazing the past few thousand games.

#3599 1 year ago

Ok - I now feel like a scientist- and I've spent way too much time trying to figure this out. Here's a run down of my combos and what happened. It has to be the phone itself based on my efforts:

1) CONFIGURATION: NIB. Software 1.52 (about a month ago- machine was built on 2/2/18 (I think or just around there) I got it around 3/10. It worked perfectly 1 day. 2nd day phone only would boot to lower third. If I disconnected VGA and reconnected it work fine until reboot/next time I played it. It would work find for as many games as I played.

2)CONFIGURATION: New video card and new Phone. I got a new VGA card and new phone. I installed the new card- my phone kept doing the same thing (lower third). I then replaced the phone with the new one. It booted with a new message my other phone never showed "video configure." It worked every time that I power cycled the machine- aka full screen worked as it should. I was happy. Next day- it booted with colors having a purplish tint. This won't go away with pulling VGA cable, power cycling etc. It does consistently fully boot- and the whole screen shows so at least I have a working game as I continue this project. I am unhappy.

3) CONFIGURATION: New video card that I had installed - with an old PC monitor. Worked perfectly. Booted in full. Full color. I was able to get consistent results. I tried about 15/20 times. Conclusion- Video card is OK.

4) CONFIGURATION: Old video card (original) with new phone. Booted fully- but with purple tint. Same behavior as the new card. No change.

CONCLUSION- As of now it has the be the VGA screen on the "phone." I no longer suspect the video card. Based on these results - two video cards gave me the same purple tint on my new phone. But - worked fully with my old PC monitor. It has to be the weak link in this.

At this point I think I earned a DialedIn Jacket- or lunch with Jack lol.

Going to share this with Stephen- and I'll report back.

For those on the fence- just so you know JJP hasn't hesistated to give me parts as needed. They're doing what they can to help. I'm bummed- but I know this will get sorted out. It sucks- and I've spent too much time on this- but it will be figured out.

Photos below are in order as I did things- the last two are the new video card and new phone so you have a reference of the purple tint. Same video card products perfect colors on my PC monitor. Thankfully it's a vertical monitor- that may look cool as a topper! Hmm.....
$2500 by Christmas though......

IMG_1601 (resized).jpg
IMG_1597 (resized).jpg
IMG_1602 (resized).jpg

IMG_1603 (resized).jpg
IMG_1604 (resized).jpg
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#3600 1 year ago

Your MEGA phone is amazing!

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