C'mon Bryan - keep one for yourself. I got my pf HEP restored...
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Quoted from Kneissl:The only thing the patch will fix is ghosting.. Even then it's not the end all.
Agree - but that is usually a solution most people can live with for a few bucks
Quoted from mollyspub:Got a set off of EBay a while back. Pretty happy with them. Worth a look .
all I see are full sets - automated has a set, but they say it is NOS and I don't want a set from the 90's glue is probably completely shot.
Quoted from Bohm:Some 3M spray adhesive will fix that right up.
ya, no thanks - I've tried to use nos decals before and sometimes you can't even get the backing off.
Quoted from mollyspub:I would double check or even reach out to the seller if he just has the head decals. It’s been a few years ago that I got them so I’m not sure of the sellers name. Best of luck !
just did - Jeff split up a set for me
Quoted from Pinkitten:Considering restoring my cab with these alternate decals and deep blood red powder. Should take me a couple weeks once the decals arrive. Gotta strip and sand the cabinet. Big cab conversion!
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Definitely better than red. I'm doing some different colors after new decals go on. No red here.
Quoted from GoldenOreos:so we have a BSD at a local bar we have tournaments at every week. idk what the deal is with this specific machine but its constantly breaking the flipper coil lugs causing the winding to snap which I have to unwind and re attach. I've gone through like 4 coils bc of this. lol anyone else have this issue. I also tech another place that has bsd and I never have this issue, also tournament heavy. very frustrating. game needs a break I guess
Did you reverse the coil orientation so the lugs are away from the stop? It helps with vibration.
Quoted from Cariba:Can anyone confirm if the rubber post sleeves are all one size on this pin, and are they the short or tall?
I think they are all the tall 1-1/16 inch ones?
I Don't have my machine in front of me to check...
Thanks,
Quoted from mollyspub:There are in the process @starship from what I understand.
Good luck with that
Quoted from mollyspub:Lol! I know it’s been a long time coming. I bought a set when a pinsider had them available. They did have some issues though.
How’s your BSD resto coming along???
Just waiting to get my Getaway cab back from the painter so I can silkscreen the warning text - then decals and back together.
Quoted from hool10:Quick question for you folks. Does powdercoating the wireforms affect the game in any way?
Not that I ever noticed
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Mine is also a full restoration with radcals
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Not sure what the laugh is about? He asked what his BSD was worth, and I gave him my opinion and shared a few pics of mine mid restoration. If you're laughing at the fact that I said I wouldn't take less than 7500 for mine, you're entitled to your opinion, but that's what it's worth to me considering all the time, effort, and new parts in it. If you're laughing at something you see in the pics, you're again entitled to your opinion, but those pics were when the job was a work in progress. I guess I should just not try and help anyone out from now on lest I risk being shamed.
Using the term "full restoration" and radcals - I'm sorry they don't go together (My opinion). All that aside - I'm not knocking your work it looks great - don't take stuff so seriously.
Quoted from Gorgar666:Crazy how many people do. I don’t care either. I play them like I own them.
I remember a company that made full size cabinet artwork protectors. Thought they were heading towards this...
body.gifQuoted from Bohm:What's wrong with Rad-Cals? What's a more appropriate restoration decal?
I'm restoring a Getaway and unless a decal looks like absolute trash I just want one that's relatively easy to install
Nothing wrong with that choice - but I wouldn't call it a restoration with radcals - In my opinion they are choice you make when fixing up a game, but side by side I'd pick a re-decaled over radcal any day.
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:There are too many brands to list as wanting to avoid. The Klipsch is probably fine. A general rule that I go by is to avoid multiple or big ports on inexpensive subs. A brand that I hear good things about as being less expensive than JL but good is SVS, so something like this:
https://www.svsound.com/products/sb-1000-pro-subwoofer
but not the next one up their line (because of the ports):
https://www.svsound.com/products/pb-1000-pro-subwoofer
You guys dropping all that money on a sub, might want to think about the quality of the sound mix. If using the original boards vs pinsound I would never do that.
Quoted from beltking:Idk I’ve tried multiple decals and are blurry at least to me since they are not licensed. Rad cals looks sharp and clear. Love them.
Not sure where you are getting decals - never had that problem. I am biased towards silk screened if they are available.
Quoted from mollyspub:How’s the quality?
Not bad at all, good tack, not too thin to use. Not a lot of margin to work with, but it worked fine. Now I just have to get the armor powdercoated. This is what I'm thinking.
DSCN6158 (resized).JPGQuoted from KJS:If any of you guys want my Gothic upgrade kit send me a pm. Had a guy pull-out of the group we have organised. Should be all ready in the next few weeks, playfield, cab art, apron, speaker panel, translite plastic set, ramp decals etc. Similar to my old one....but better!!
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Can you post some detailed pictures of the translite speaker panel and apron?
Quoted from mollyspub:I’ll suggest gloss black but that’s just me.
How did you make out with the speaker panel decal?
Haven't braved that speaker panel decal yet
Quoted from mollyspub:I’ll suggest gloss black but that’s just me.
How did you make out with the speaker panel decal?
Finally tried the speaker panel decal - turn out reasonably well
DSCN6171 (resized).JPGQuoted from mollyspub:Isn’t this going to block the love never dies flashers?
Color dmd installed, so I don't have them anyway
Quoted from Pinkitten:So I’ve wanted to add LEDs under my graveyard for years. But, I didn’t want to remove the ramps and access the bottom of the graveyard because I’m lazy. So, I decided to raise the playfield about 45 degrees, to expose the backside of the graveyard. Then, I drilled a small hole and fed a green and a blue star post led inside. It worked pretty well for a 1/2 hour job!
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Thanks for reminding me to do this before putting my pf back in the cabinet!
Quoted from mollyspub:How’s the restoration coming along ?
Waiting on powdercoat right now
Quoted from Cariba:Anyone car to share if they are using Pinstadium's lighting system on their BSD?
Or a DIY version?
Quoted from WeirPinball:Waiting on powdercoat right now
Armor back - waiting on some internal parts to put together the rest of the cab. Wireforms pulled for powdercoat.
DSCN6329 (resized).JPGQuoted from PinRetail:If the wrapper of your coil is 'crunchy', you should replace the coil, because it's gotten quite hot. If the wrapper isn't browned or crunchy you'll need to replace the coil sleeve and see if that solves the 'sticky'.
The wire ramp ball popper I think uses an opto to see if the ball is there. If that opto is dirty it could be activating the coil a lot, causing overheating. Clean the opto, maybe replace it.
Then, yes, it's possible for the transistor that drives this coil to become 'leaky'. It's quite rare. Usually it would become leaky, then get very hot and fail turning the coil on all the time. Look at the transistor associated with this coil and if it seems heat discolored, replace it. It could be the pre-driver (small transistor) that is bad, so you could check it against the other transistors close to it, but this is all very unlikely.
Let us know what you find.
A coil works or it doesn't never replace it the only thing is crunchy paper. It is only wound wire, if it doesn't have a break it will work, coil sleeves on the other hand can get hot and deform.
Quoted from Wanderers:Any body have and idea when Starship Fantasy will have Drac ramps ready???
Quoted from Joeynelyse:Ok guys, I have 2 issues going on with the BSD I just picked up. First, as the ball is ejected into the shooter lane it hits the opposing lane guide and bounces back into the eject hole. It does this several times before staying in the lane so i can plunge it. Second, as the ball travels, it occasionally hits the edge of the wire form that protrudes barely into the lane. Anyone else have these issues? Suggested fixes? Thanks!
look at how the arm strikes the ball and you might have to bend the arm a bit either way to get it to get it to eject correctly
Quoted from Cariba:I am considering this myself as well, but I would love to see video of actual BSD with it to compare
I've got one to put in, I'll post when I finally get around to it
Quoted from Cariba:That would be much appreciated, and if you could do a short video of "before" as well please.
But these boards are only for GI not insert lights?
only GI
Quoted from Cariba:I see...and is there not a OCD board version for insert lights? I know comet has em for pinbot and twilight zone..and other pins.
Or is it not much change if used for inserts lights on bsd?
Not sure why it would be used on inserts, problem with gi is getting them to dim without strobing
Quoted from LTG:AC GI pretty much go on or off. DC insert lights need to be controlled for individual lighting of different inserts. Hence the lamp matrix. I don't know if you easily do that with AC.
LTG : )
Actually AC GI is variable by voltage, remember the "allow dim illum setting on wpcs?
Quoted from shedpinball:Hi , new problem with drac today after turning it on , tried re connecting all cables to and from the dmd with no change , am i in need of a new dmd or driver board ??
Maybe not, make sure the ribbon going to the dmd isn't reversed - also reseat all the ribbon cables to make sure they are aligned.
Quoted from MadMaxDad:I picked up a machine and in its previous life, somebody cut the barcode out of the playfield. At least they did a good job (insert giant eye roll)
Was it a serial number or a model number (the same for all machines) ?
I’m going to try and print the original and mylar over it.
If someone could post a photo - I’d appreciate it.
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This is what one of mine looked like
064 (resized).JPGQuoted from hool10:How in the heck do you fit a rubber in this spot? Also it can’t be 1.5” but a 2.5” rubber.
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loosen the post screw, put on band, tighten screw.
Quoted from aobrien5:BSD has the UV SN in the middle of the playfield as well. Check yours out.
You are right!
DSCN6522 (resized).JPGRestoration is finished, New cabinet decals, speaker panel decal, new coin door, new translite new apron artwork, lighting added to village and cave, flasher added on graveyard, pinsound wired for stereo with upgraded speakers. New dracula coffin, changed all posts to blue. Pf was restored previously.
DSCN6537 (resized).JPGDSCN6538 (resized).JPGDSCN6540 (resized).JPGQuoted from Cariba:I am considering changing my BSD pop bumpers to Blue and possibly the lane dividers (as pictured above), can anyone post PF pics of this mod, and if anyone has with say pop bumpers in blue but lane dividers in red still.
Any thoughts on these changes? Did anyone make this change then regret it and why?
I was going to go green on the lane guides to go with the mist up there, but couldn't find any green ones, so went with the blue theme.
Quoted from aobrien5:For the flashers, I'd think you'd just tie into the flasher wiring itself (I did this with undercab lighting).
For Ron, I honestly don't think I've ever noticed him light up.
I tied into these flashers for my added lightning flasher on the graveyard.
Quoted from Cudaman:When I purchased my BSD, it had remote control led strips that lit up Love Never Dies and the backbox up by Dracula. As of right now, the led strips are not working and my 5A fuse at F109 keeps blowing. When I looked to see how these leds were hooked up for power, there are trifurcon pins on the end of a piece of speaker wire and those are pushed into the J116 standard connector at pins 2 & 3. That certainly is not a stable connection. Does anyone have instructions for how this was supposed to be connected? Of course would like it to be reversible so I don't want to hard wire into J116 pins 2&3 if that is how its supposed to be hooked up.
Pictures are below. Does anyone have this mod, know where it came from and can you please let me know the best way to connect? Thanks![quoted image][quoted image]
They look like 12v leds - look at the power supply there. Grabbing it at J116 is a place to get 12V
Quoted from aeneas:I'm working on a new mod that goes in the top right corner of the playfield.
My problem is that it connects to the 906 flasher in the top right corner and I don't find a way to do this nicely and make it plug and play.
At the moment I'm testing it by just tieing 2 wires to the flasher lamp and plugging it carefully in the twist socket base.
Other option is that people just solder it at the back of the playfield. That's also not for everyone.
Alligator clips aren't really an option on that board at the back of the playfield.
Does anyone know if 906 flashers with a connector exist or a piece to put in between the connector?
Would having a mod to solder yourself or connecting carefully to the existing 906 be a big dealbreaker or could you live with this ?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Only way to tie into that is to solder another set of wires on the socket.
Quoted from Zee:Why not just make a molex Y connector for the flasher? You will need a couple of 2-pin housings, the pins themselves, wire, and the correct crimping tool.
For example:
https://www.amazon.com/Molex-2-Pin-Connector-Kit-0-093/dp/B004GUQ2ZM
You still need to tie off the existing socket - you could add a connector off two additional wires soldered on.
Quoted from CryptKeeperAUS:Last little update on this one so I don't end up spamming the thread. I'll be doing a one time run of these early/mid next year. Anyone who is interested feel free to PM and I'll keep a list and reach out when there is somthing fully functional to consider.[quoted image]
fantastic!
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